Milady Ch. 24 Overview—Facial Makeup

Oval face

3/4 as wide as it is long, eyes are one eye length apart

Latisse

A prescription drug that has now been approved for enhancing lash growth and thickness. Contains bimatoprost.see growth 2-4 months later

Foundation

Also known as base makeup, is a flesh toned cosmetic used to minimize the appearance of skin imperfections. Comes in liquid, stick, cream, or powder form.

Cheek color

Also known as blush, is used primarily to add color to the cheeks. Bronzer often added for warm glow. Does come in liquid, gel, and cream

Lip color

Also known as lip stick or lip gloss, is a waxy cosmetic used to enhance the lips. Mixture of oils, waxes, and pigments known as lakes or color dyes.

Hair

Bristles or makeup brush

Orange colors Gold, warm orange browns, peach and copper, red browns like mauve and plum, neutrals like taupe or caramel

Complementary shadows for blue eyes

Any color Greens, blues, grays, silvers recommended

Complementary shadows for brown eyes

Don't use straight red bc they make the eyes look tired. Use colors next to red. Violets are popular Coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauves, purples

Complementary shadows for green eyes

Camouflaging

Corrective makeup technique used to conceal scars, burns, and pigmentation issues ranging from vitiligo to tattoos.

Mascara

Cosmetic preparation used to darken, define, and thicken the eyelashes. Liquid, cake, and cream form.

Eye shadows

Cosmetics used to accentuate the eye shape and compliment eye color. Come in cream, pressed, and powder form.

Color primers

Created to neutralize skin discolorations. Available in green, lavender, and orange

Strip lashes

Eyelash hairs on a band that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line. Made from human hair, mink, or synthetic fibers attached to a band

Loose face powder

Face powder easily applied and best used for setting foundation.

Pressed powder

Face powder that is blended with binding agents such as zinc stearate to help it adhere to the skin. Great for touch ups.

Eyeliner brush

Fine, tapered, firm bristles; used to apply liquid liner or shadow to the lash line.

Angle brush

Firm, thin bristles; used to apply powder to the eyebrows or eye liner at the lash line.

Contour

Formed when a product that is darker than the clients skin tone is used to create shadows over prominent features so they are less noticeable

Liquid Foundation

Foundation is often applied to the skin in small dots across the face and then quickly blended with a sponge or brush

Cream foundation

Foundation is usually applied to the sponge and then blended across the skin

Cream foundation

Foundation that is also known as oil base, is thicker than liquid, provide heavier coverage, and are better for drier and more mature skin types.

Base color

Generally a medium shade that is close to the clients skin. Usually applied across the lid, then blended into the crease

Lip liner

Generally applied before the lip color to define the shape of the lips and keep color from bleeding

3 parts of a makeup brush

Hair, ferrule, handle

Cake Makeup (Pancake Makeup)

Heavy coverage pressed powder applied to the face with moistened cosmetic sponge. Can cover scars and uneven pigmentation.

Greasepaint

Heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes because it doesn't shift.

Put three shades on the jawline, the one that disappears is best. Apply from the center of the face outward using short downward strokes.

How do you choose foundation color? What direction do you apply it?

Apply green color corrector. You may then apply a light layer of foundation with a warm yellow tone to balance. Set it with translucent powder

How do you correct a ruddy skin tone?

Apply a pink based foundation. Set with translucent powder

How do you correct a sallow skin tone?

If a client has blue eyes, orange shadow wouldn't go with cool black hair. Choose a cooler color near orange.

How do you have to pay attention to a clients hair color when choosing makeup?

Pick cheek color in the same family as the shadow color. If the shadow is cool, use a cooler cheek color. Or use neutral bc it contains cool and warm tones

How do you match cheek color to eye shadow?

Eyeliners

Is a cosmetic used to define the eyes and make the lash line appear fuller. Available in pencil, liquid, pressed, gel, or felt tip pen. Consists of wax or a hardened oil base.

Contour color

Is darker than the clients skin. Applied to minimize unwanted fullness/puffiness, contour the crease, or define the lash line

Highlighter color

Is lighter than the clients skin tone and may have a matte or iridescent finish. Accent areas such as brow bone

Face powder

Is used to create a mat or non shiny finish. It is used to set foundation, making it easier to apply other powders, such as blush or bronzer. Usually a mixture of pigments such as talc, corn starch, or silica.

Cosmetic lash enhancers

Lash lengthened that contains fibers to make lashes look longer and fuller.

Oil and water

Liquid and cream forms of makeup are an emulsion of ___ and _____

2

Make sure the shade of the concealer is not more than ____ shades lighter than the skin

Noncomedogenic

Means the product does not contain ingredients that will clog follicles, aggravating acne prone skin

Matte

Often a foundation will contain aluminum or another drying agent to produce a non shiny finish which is called......

Oil based makeup

Oil in water

Cupid's bow

Peak of the upper lip. Should fall directly in line with the nostrils

Mineral makeup

Popular makeup choice. Commonly used to describe a highly pigmented powder foundation even though it comes in liquid form. Provides natural looking coverage, and usually applied with a kabuki brush. Popular for sensitive skin

Translucent

Powder containing very little pigments are called _______. They reduce oily ness without adding color

Highlight

Produced when a product that is lighter than the clients skin tone is placed on the high planes of the face

Primer

Product that begins the foundation application that helps disguise less than perfect skin. Can fill in uneven surfaces

Concealer

Product used to hide dark eye circles, hyperpigmentation, distended capillaries, and other imperfections. Have high concentration of pigment and provide greater coverage than foundation. Come as sticks, pencils, tins, jars, tubes with wands. Either silicone based for light coverage or oil based creams for greater coverage.

Deep skin

Red, orange brown, red brown OR dark olive, blue, blue-black

Individual lashes

Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the base of the eyelashes one at a time. Utilizes tab or cluster (flare) false eyelashes

Lip brush

Similar to the concealer brush, but smaller and with a more tapered, rounded edge

Eye makeup removers

Special preparations for removing eye makeup. Oily based are used to take off heavy makeup. Water based are good while you're applying makeup

Ferrule

The metal part that holds the brush intact and supports the strength of the bristles. Rings around it

Eyebrow pencils or eyebrow powders

Used to add color and shape to the eye brows. Can be used to darken the brows, correct their shape, or fill in areas. Powders are applied with the brush and make eyebrows look fuller

Brow brush (spoolie)

Used to apply mascara or brush brows in place

Eyelash adhesive

Used to make artificial eyelashes adhere, or stick, to the natural lash line

Concealer brush

Usually narrow and firm with a flat edge, used to apply concealer around the eyes or over blemishes.

Water based makeup

Water in oil

Skin color, eye color, hair color

What are the 3 main factors to consider when choosing colors for a client ?

First choice is natural light. If that isn't a choice, use combo of incandescent(warm bulb) and fluorescent(cool light)

What are the lighting choices for applying makeup ?

Green: helps hide redness Lavender: reduces sallow (yellow) skin appearance Orange: cancels out the deep blue in dark spots and discoloration under the eyes

What does green, lavender, and orange primer do?

Drawing light to an area emphasizes features, while creating a shadow minimizes them

What is the basic rule when altering a face shape with makeup ?

Line of demarcation

Where foundation begins and ends. There shouldn't be one of these.

Handle

Wood, acrylic, plastic, or metal part of makeup brush

Fair skin

Yellow, gold, pale peach OR pink or slightly red (ruddy)

Medium skin

Yellow, yellow orange, red OR Olive (yellow green)