Milady chapter 16 ~ Haircutting.

Interior.

Inner or internal line.

Interior Guideline.

Is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter.

Forged Shears.

Made by a process of working metal to a finished shape by hammering and pressing. Heated to 2,100° and 2,300°.

Cast Shears.

Made by a process whereby molten steel is poured junto a mold. Once metal is cooled, it takes on the shape of the mold.

Barber Comb.

Mainly used for close tapers on the nape and sides when using the scissor-over-comb technique.

Haircutting Shears.

Mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines in the hair. Can be used to slide cut, point cut, or to implement other texturizing techniques.

Clippers.

Mainly used when creating short haircuts, short tapers, fades, and flat tops. Can be used without a guard to shave right to the scalp.

Traveling Guideline or Movable Guideline.

Move as the hair progresses. Used to creating layered or graduated haircuts.

Four Corners.

Points on the head that signal a change in the shape of the head, from flat to round or vice versa.

Beveling and Stacking

Techniques using diagonal lines to create angles by cutting the ends of the hair with a slight increase or decrease in length.

Perimeter.

The outer line.

Angle.

The space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point.

Parietal Ridge.

The widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown.

Diagonal Lines.

These are between horizontal and vertical. They have a slanting or slope direction. Used to create fullness in a haircut and to blend long layers into short layers.

Horizontal Lines.

These are parallel to the horizon or the floor. They direct the eye from one side to the other. Build weight. Paused to creat one-length and low-elevation haircuts and to add weight.

Wide-tooth Comb.

This comb is mainly used to detangle hair.

Texturizing Shears.

Used to remove bulk from the hair. Also referred to s thinning shears, tapering shears, or notching shears. Will varying amounts of teeth in the blades, more teeth less hair being cut.

Vertical Lines.

Usually described in terms of up and down and are perpendicular to the floor, they are the opposite of horizontal. Remove weight to create graduated or layered haircuts and are used with higher elevations.

Reference Points.

The head mark where the surface of the head changes, such as the ear, jawline, occipital bone, or apex.

Apex.

The highest point on the top of the head.

Part or Parting.

The line dividing the hair at the scalp, separating one section of the hair from another, creating subsections.

Stationary Guideline.

Does not move. All other sections are combed to the guideline and cut at the same angle and length. Used in blunt (one-length) haircuts, or in haircuts that use over direction to create a length or weight increase.

Subsections.

Each section may be divided into smaller partings.

Layered Haircut.

A graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or over direction.

Graduated Haircut.

A graduated shape and wedge.

Slide Cutting.

A method of cutting or thinning the hair in which the fingers and shears glide alone the edge of the hair to remove length.

Guideline.

A section of hair that determines the length of the hair will be cut. Located either at the perimeter or interior of the cut,

Line.

A thin continuous mark used as a guide.

Bang Area or Fringe Area

A triangular section is that begins at the apex and ends at the four corners.

Weight Line.

A visual line in the haircut, where the ends of the hair hang together.

Uniform Layers.

All hair is elevated to 90° from the scalp and cut at the same length.

Blunt or One-length Haircut.

All the hair comes to a single hanging level, forming a weight line.

Razors.

Straight razors or feather blades. Used when a softer effect on the ends of the hair is desired. Can create a entire cut or to thin hair out, or to Texturize in certain areas.

Over direction.

Best understood by comparing it to elevation. It occurs when you comb the hair away from its natural falling position, rather than straight put from the head. Used in graduated and layered haircuts.

Top

By locating the parietal ridge, you can find the hair that grows on ___ of the head.

Back

By making a parting or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can locate the ___ of the head, which consists of all the hair that falls naturally behind the ear.

Front

By making a parting, or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can separate the hair that naturally falls in front of the ear from the hair behind the ear. Everything that falls in front of the ear is considered the ____.

Sectioning Clips.

Come in a variety of shapes, styles, and sizes and can be made of plastic or metal. Two types are used, jaw or butterfly clips and duckbill clips. Both come in large and small sizes.

Layers.

Create movement and volume in the hair by releasing weight.

Sections.

For control during Haircutting, the hair is parted into uniform working areas.

Head Form or Head Shape

Good haircuts begin with an understanding of the shape of the head.

Trimmers or Edgers.

Smaller version of clippers. Used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears, and to create crisp outlined.

Sides

The ___ are easy to locate. They include all hair from the back of the ear forward, below the parietal ridge.

Cutting Line.

The angle at which the fingers are held when cutting the line that creates the end shape. Also known as cutting position, cutting able, finger angle, and finger position.

Elevation or Projection/Lifting

The angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or ____, from the head when cutting. Creates graduations and layers.

Crown.

The area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge. On many people, the crown is flat and the site of cowlicks or whorls.

Nape.

The back part of the neck and consists of the hair below the occipital bone.

Occipital Bone.

The bone that protrudes at the base of the skull.

Long-Layered Haircut.

The hair is cut at a 180-degree angle. Gives more volume to hairstyles and can be combined with other basic haircuts.

Tail Comb.

This tool is mainly used to section and subsection the hair.

Styling or Cutting Comb.

This tool is used for most Haircutting procedures. It can be 6 to 8 inches lone and has fine teeth at one end and wider teeth at the other.