Milady Cosmetology Chapter 20

Ammonia-free waves

Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so they're is very little odor associated with their use.

Base placement

Position of the rod in relation to its base section; determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Can be on base, half off base, of off base.

potassium hydroxide relaxers

Relaxers are often marketed and sold as no mix-lye relaxers are _____________.

Metal hydroxide relaxers

Relaxers that contain only one component and are used without mixing are ____________.

guanidine hydroxide relaxers

Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are ___________.

Single flat wrap

Similar to double flat wrap but uses only one ends paper, placed over top the strand of hair; provides the most control over hair ends.

Curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends

Since the hair at the scalp is usually stronger than the hair at the ends, over processed hair is usually _________________________.

lye relaxers

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called __________.

Thio neutralization

Stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form.

Disulfide bonds

Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.

Straighter at the scalp and curlier at the ends

Underprocessed hair is usually _________________________.

Thio relaxers

Use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).

Bookend wrap

Uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.

Curvature permanent wrap

Partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head.

Double flat wrap

Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped.

soft curl permanent

A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a ____________________.

Chemical hair relaxing

A process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.

50%

A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately _____ of the hair's disulfide bonds.

Basic permanent wrap

A wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases.

Hydrogen

Permanent waving solution breaks disulfide bonds by adding ________.

End papers

Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.

Endothermic waves

Activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer. Will not process properly at room temperature.

Cold waves

Alkaline waves are also known as ____________.

Cowlicks

Perms can help thin hair look fuller, make straight or coarse hair more manageable, and help control stubborn ________.

Permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer.

All exothermic waves have three components: ___________________.

Panels

All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____________.

Loop rod

Also known as the circle rod

Base cream

An oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing.

Straight set wrap

Another name for basic permanent wrap.

Piggyback wrap

Another term for double-rod wrap

End bonds

Another term for peptide bonds.

Bricklay permanent wrap

Base sections are offset from each other row by row, too prevent noticeable splits, and to blend the flow of the hair.

Oxidative reactions

Can also lighten hair color, especially at an alkaline pH.

Acidic liquid protein conditioner

Can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm hair dryer (hair is uncovered) for five minutes or more prior to neutralization.

Stress and tension on hair.

Caution should be4 used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional ______________.

Peptide bonds

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end to end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain.

Soften and swell

Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair in order to ___________________________.

abrasions

Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of ___________________.

Amino Acid

Compound made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen nitrogen, and sulfur

normalizing lotion

Conditioner with an acidic pH that restores the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer is ______________.

Exothermic waves

Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing.

insufficiently relaxed

During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl is ___________________.

Straight rods

Equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area; produces a uniform curl along entire width of the strand.

On-base placement

Hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.

Half off-base placement

Hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section.

Double-rod wrap

Hair is wrapped on one rod from scalp to midway down the hair shaft and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair stand in the same direction.

Hydroxide relaxer

Hair that has been treated with a ________________ is unfit for a permanent waving and will not hold a curl.

overprocessed

Hair that has too many disulfide bonds broken and will not hold a firm curl is considered:

thio relaxers

Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with _____________________.

Spiral perm wrap

Hair wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to look almost like the stripes on a candy cane.

lanthionine bond

Hydroxide relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it to a(n) _________.

no-base relaxers

Hydroxide relaxers that do not require the application of a protective base are ___________.

hydrogen

In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _____________.

ends to scalp

In the corquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from _______________.

Highly alkaline

In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is _______________.

Preliminary test curls

It is advisable to take ________________ of the hair is damaged or if there is any uncertainty about the results.

Thio relaxer

Japanese thermal straightening combines use of a __________ with flat ironing.

Metallic salts

Leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. They are found in some home hair coloring products and ate not compatible with permanent waving.

Polypeptide chains

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.

Male

Many ____ clients are looking for the added texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance only a perm can provide.

Acid-balanced waves

Modern acid waves are actually ________________, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, they process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.

7.8 and 8.2

Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between ________.

9.0 and 9.6

Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _________.

Concave rods

Most common type of perm rods;smaller diameter in center that increases to a larger diameter on ends.

Reduction

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called ____________.

Weak curl or may even be completely straight

Overprocessed hair usually a _________________________.

Base sections

Subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section.

Alkalinity

The _____________ of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer.

Weave technique

The ________________ uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.

hydrogen ion

The active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers is the ________.

Ammonium thioglycolate

The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is __________.

Permanent wave solution

The amount of processing is determined by the strength of the ________________.

Base direction

The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as _____________.

back of the head

The application for chemical relaxers should be started in the most resistant area, usually the _______________.

Strength and elasticity

The cortex layer of the hair structure is responsible for the hair's ________________.

hydroxide

The difference in the strength of most chemical hair relaxers is determined by the concentration of ___________.

Glyceryl monothioglycolate

The main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions; has a low pH.

Viscosity

The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows.

Hydrogen peroxide

The most common neutralizer is ________________.

thioglycolic acids

The most common reducing agents used are ____________.

Chemical texture services

The process of chemically altering the natural wave pattern of hair is ____________.

0 to 14

The range of numbers used in the pH scale

Reducing agent

The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its __________________.

Potential hydrogen

The term pH is an abbreviation used for _________________.

Croquignole and spiral

The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are ________________.

Strongest

There are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, they are the _______ of the three side bonds.

Removing the hydrogen

Thio neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by _______________ that was added by the permanent waving solution.

Cuticle

Tough exterior layer of the hair

Hydroxide relaxers

Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13 and the active ingredient of the hydroxide ion.

Size of the rod and the wrapping method

What determines the size of the curl in permanent waving?

Hair will lighten slightly

What will occur in a mixture of 20 volume peroxide and 20 drops of 28 percent ammonia if metallic salts are not present?

Hair will lighten rapidly, may get hot and give an unpleasant odor.

What will occur in a mixture of 20 volume peroxide and 20 drops of 28 percent ammonia if metallic salts are present?

Partial perms

When the client does not want the entire head to be curled.

Off-base placement

Wrapping hair at a 45 degree below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base.

Excess water

___________ left in hair reduces the effectiveness of the neutralizer.

Half-off

____________ placement minimizes stress and tension on the hair.

Keratin proteins

_____________ are made of long, coiled polypeptide chains (chains of amino acids) linked together end to end like beads.

Keratin straightening, keratin

_______________ treatments work by fixing ___________ in place in a semi-permanent manner.

Salt bonds

_________________ are broken by changes in pH.

Processing the hair more

_________________ does not necessarily translate into more curl.

Coarse hair

_________________ with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a more alkaline waving solution.

Thio-free waves

__________________ use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mecaptamine.

Hydrogen bonds

___________________ can be broken by water or heat and are re-formed when the hair is dried.