Pennsylvania Hunter Ed Course Unit 7: Advanced Hunting Techniques
Steps for Loading an In-Line Muzzleloader
Check for load and swab bore dry. Open breechblock to install cap/primer. Point in safe direction and close block. Clear channel by firing cap. Drop in powder or pellets. Place bullet in muzzle. Use starter to push bullet into muzzle. Use ramrod to seat bullet completely. Open breechblock. Install cap or primer. Close block and put on safe or fire.
Cocking Devices—Hand Cranks
Hand Cranks: These devices are either permanently attached to the stock or easily attached and then removed after cocking and prior to the shot. This device operates similarly to a boat winch, using gear reduction and a crank handle to reduce the heaviest draw weights to a fraction of their original weight.
Common Bow Types—Recurve Bow
Much like the longbow, but the limbs curve back away from the belly of the bow, which can provide more power in a shorter bow than the longbow A popular choice because it's smooth and quiet
Muzzleloader Locks
On these early firearms, locks played the role of modern-day actions. Matchlock and wheel lock muzzleloaders are rare and valuable, but they also may be unsafe to use. Flintlocks and percussion locks are the muzzleloaders typically used for shooting competitions and for hunting. They are generally less expensive, lighter, more reliable, and easier to load and maintain than matchlocks and wheel locks.
Game Recovery Steps When Bow and Crossbow Hunting
Wait quietly for at least 30 minutes after your shot. Allow the animal to lie down and die from massive blood loss. Locate and examine your arrow when the animal moves off. Stomach contents on the arrow indicate a poor hit. Wait several hours before beginning to track a gut-shot animal. Look for blood and other tracking signs. Check nearby vegetation for indications that the animal went by. Look for overturned leaves, broken branches, and footprints. Walk beside the game sign. Walking directly on blood or other sign may destroy the trail. Mark your trail with bright-colored material. If you can't find new sign, a marked path will allow you to start from the last located sign. If you lose the trail, begin to walk in widening arcs in the direction the animal headed. Approach downed game cautiously. Walk up to the animal from the rear and stay clear of the legs. Watch the animal's chest for signs of breathing. The animal's eyes will be open if it's dead. Tap the animal with a long stick to check for a response. If it's still alive, quickly place another shot in the vital area. Tag immediately if required by law.
Nocking an Arrow
A nocked arrow should be positioned about a quarter inch above the arrow rest on the bow handle. On most bows, a small brass band called a "nocking point" is crimped onto the bowstring to mark the correct position. To nock the arrow: Grasp the arrow between the thumb and index finger of the right hand (if you're a right-handed shooter). With your left hand, hold the bow parallel to the ground about waist high, string toward the body. Lay the arrow shaft on the bow's arrow rest. Position the arrow so that the fletching will not hit the rest when the arrow is released. Align the slot in the nock with the string, while making sure that the cock feather points up (while the bow is parallel to the ground). Pull the arrow back until the string snaps into the slot.
Parts of an Arrow
Arrows have five parts. Shaft: The long spine of the arrow. Modern arrow shafts are made of wood, fiberglass, aluminum, or carbon. The arrow, regardless of shaft material, must have the correct stiffness to match the bow. As an arrow is released, the shaft bends before straightening in flight. Incorrect stiffness will cause the arrow to fly off target. Fletching: The plastic vanes or feathers on an arrow. Fletching creates wind drag and also can cause the arrow to spin similar to a rifle bullet, providing stability and accuracy in flight. Fletching is made up of three or more vanes or feathers. One of the feathers will be a different color and is called the "cock" feather. The remaining feathers are referred to as the "hen" feathers. Arrowhead: The point of the arrow. Many different kinds of arrow points are available, each with a different purpose and advantage. Nock: A slotted plastic tip located on the rear end of the arrow that snaps onto the string and holds the arrow in position. There is a certain point on the bowstring, called the "nocking point," where arrows are nocked. Fine tuning of this location, by moving it up or down the bowstring, is usually required. Crest: The area that gives information about the arrow's shaft size and spine.
Matching Your Equipment
Before going bowhunting or shooting at the range, it is important that your equipment is matched properly to you and your purpose. You must match: The bow to your body size, strength, and shooting style Bow draw weight to your draw weight and the game being hunted Arrow draw length to your draw length Arrow spine to your draw weight and length Your arrows to each other in size and weight Accessory equipment to the game being hunted and the hunting method
Archery Equipment Safety
Before practicing or hunting, an archer must examine the bow and each arrow for defects. Repair or replace damaged bows, and throw away arrows with damaged shafts or loose or missing parts. Check the bow for:Cracks or separations in limbs, limb tips, cams, or riserLoose bolts, screws, or other fastenersWorn or frayed bowstring or servingsWorn or damaged cablesBroken, loose, or damaged arrow restCheck the arrows for:Cracks and splinters in wood arrows—an arrow with a crack in it may shatter on release and be driven into the archer's armCreases, dents, or cracks in aluminum arrowsCrushed sidewalls on fiberglass or graphite arrowsCracked or broken nocks—nocks can be replacedLoose or missing partsLoose or missing fletching or vanes Always keep broadheads in a covered quiver. Use a broadhead wrench when installing or removing broadheads.
Common Types of Arrowheads—Points
Bullet Point: Steel point used for target shooting and small game hunting. Blunt Point: Used for small game hunting and some types of target shooting; made of steel, hard rubber, or plastic. Field Point: Steel point used for target shooting and small game hunting. JUDO® Point: Designed with spring arms attached to catch in grass and leaves, preventing arrow loss; used for "stump" shooting and small game hunting. Fish Point: Long, barbed or spring-loaded arrowhead that spears fish and secures them until landed with an attached line.
Drawing and Anchoring the Bow
Drawing the Bow To draw the bow: Grip the bow handle firmly in your left hand if you are right-handed, but don't squeeze. Raise your left hand above eye level. Your left arm may be slightly bent or straight out from your body. Raise the bow as you pull back the string with the three drawing fingers. At the same time, extend your left arm. Bring the string back to full draw. Anchoring Bring the three drawing fingers back to touch the "anchor point" on your face. The anchor point may be the corner of your mouth, your cheekbone, or your chin. Use the same anchor point each time you shoot. Practice will help you determine your best anchor point—one that's both comfortable and provides the most accurate shooting. Your fingers should touch the same anchor point each time you draw the bow.
Broadhead Safety
Many archers' injuries come from broadheads. Broadheads must be kept razor-sharp for hunting, which creates a safety problem if they are handled carelessly. To prevent injury: Use a special wrench to screw on broadheads. This device covers the blades while a broadhead is being tightened on an arrow. If a wrench isn't used, the slightest slip can cause a serious cut. When sharpening broadheads, always stroke the blade away from hands and body. Keep broadheads covered with a quiver while traveling to and from the field. Many arrow injuries occur while loading or unloading equipment in vehicles. While dressing bow-killed game, remember that the broadhead may remain in the animal. Use great caution until all parts of the broadhead have been found.
Preventive Maintenance
Most manufacturers recommend applying a lubricant to the rail of the crossbow and applying string wax to the crossbow string outside the area where the serving rides on the rail. This attention to detail will greatly increase string life and help you achieve consistent accuracy. Centering the Crossbow String's Center Serving Area The crossbow string's center serving area should be centered on either side of the latch system for consistent shooting when the crossbow is in the cocked position. For ease of centering, you may want to use a permanent marker to color the part of the serving on the string that is immediately outside the rail on both sides of the stock when the crossbow is uncocked. When the crossbow is cocked, you can glance down quickly and check to see if the string is centered. If the string is not centered, it can be adjusted in the latch by pulling back on the string and moving it until the marks are centered. A sudden shift of arrow groups to one side is a good indicator that the crossbow is being cocked with the string off center. Using a cocking aid—a harness or crank—will help ensure center cocking each time.
Practice Shooting
Practice makes perfect in bowhunting. Prior to the start of the bowhunting season, you should practice with your bow and equipment so that you become a skillful shooter. Practice from different angles and distances to increase your skills and raise your confidence. Shooting practice has many benefits: Develops skills necessary to place the arrow in the vital organs Establishes your personal maximum effective range Familiarizes you with your equipment Increases confidence Prepares you to shoot from different angles Builds upper body strength
What You Learned
Primitive hunting arms include the muzzleloader firearm, the bow and arrow, and the crossbow. Muzzleloaders Muzzleloaders are loaded from the muzzle or open end of the gun. They have a lock instead of the action. Muzzleloaders are usually rifles but can be shotguns (single barrel or double barrel) or handguns (pistols or revolvers). Another type of muzzleloading firearm is the in-line muzzleloader. Its parts are recoil pad, striker safety, trigger safety, breech, scope mounts, rear sight, front sight, ramrod, and stock. Only use black powder or a synthetic black powder substitute in muzzleloaders. Do not use modern-day smokeless powders due to the risk of serious injury.The four sizes or granulations of black powder are Fg, FFg, FFFg, and FFFFg. The five types of projectiles used in muzzleloaders are bullets, Sabot bullets, PowerBelt bullets, shot pellets, and round bullets. Select your ammunition based on the type of shooting you plan to do. To protect yourself from the increased risks of using a muzzleloader, remember to follow safety rules when loading or unloading your firearm. The primary rule is to keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Do not lean over, stand in front of, or blow down the muzzle. You should swab the barrel of your muzzleloader with a moist patch after each shot to avoid fouling. Then thoroughly clean the muzzleloader after each shooting session.
Common Bow Types—Longbow (Stick Bow)
Proper bow selection and fit are essential to your accuracy and performance when bowhunting. Longbow The "traditional" bow, which has straight limbs that form an arc when strung Used by those interested in traditional shooting with little additional equipment
Muzzleloader Hang Fire Situations
Sometimes a muzzleloader will not fire immediately when the trigger is pulled. This is known as "hang fire" and requires great caution because the gun might fire some time after the cap or flint created the initial sparks. Keep the gun pointed in a safe direction, preferably downrange. Don't take it anywhere that it could injure someone or damage property if it fires. If a muzzleloader doesn't fire properly, get help from an experienced shooter to unload it using a ball discharger.
Stance and Grip
Stand at a right angle to the target with your feet approximately shoulder-width apart. The stance should feel comfortable and balanced. If you prefer, you may slide your front foot back a little, creating a slightly open stance. Don't squeeze the grip. Hold it so that it is supported by your hand.
Common Bow Types—Compound Bow
The most popular bow for both hunting and target shooting A bow with many styles, but they work basically the same way; wheels and cables attached to the limbs make it easier to hold at full draw (pulled completely back) and able to propel an arrow faster than either a longbow or recurve bow
Stringing a Bow
The safe and easy way to string a recurve bow or longbow is to use a bowstringer. The push-pull or step-through method can be hazardous to yourself or your bow. A bowstringer is simply a strong cord with a loop or pocket at each end that fits over the limb tip of recurve bows and some longbows. By standing on the loose middle of the cord after it's attached to the tips, the limbs can be flexed as the handle is pulled. This allows the bowstring to be slipped safely into place. To replace compound bowstrings, you must use a bow press. A bow press is used to place and hold tension on the limbs, allowing the strings to be changed. Inexperienced bowhunters should have a qualified dealer or individual replace the string on a compound bow.
Typical Crossbow Safety Locations
The safety may be located on the side or the back of the sight bridge. Check your owner's manual to learn how to use the safety for your specific crossbow correctly.
Safety Accessories
To protect the three fingers that draw the bowstring, archers wear three-fingered gloves or finger tabs, or use mechanical releases. A mechanical release snaps onto the string and is pulled back with the shooting hand. The archer pulls a trigger to release the string. An armguard protects the inner part of the bow arm during release as the string snaps back. The armguard prevents the bowstring from hitting loose clothing and also helps protect the arm if an arrow breaks during release.
Speed and Range of Modern Bows
While modern bows can shoot arrows up to 400 yards at speeds exceeding 200 miles per hour, the bow is a short-range hunting tool. Any bow can be dangerous at any range and should be handled responsibly. Shots are usually limited to 40 yards or less; and at this range, the arrow penetrates and can even pass through an animal. To ensure accuracy, most shots are taken at 15 yards.
How Broadhead-Point Arrows Kill Game
A broadhead-point arrow, unlike a bullet, kills game by causing massive blood loss as it cuts through an animal's blood vessels and vital organs. The vital organs include the heart, lungs, and liver. The brain size of animals hunted with broadhead-point arrows, such as deer or elk, is small and protected by a heavy skull and does not present a good target. Only shots at the heart-lung vital area should be taken to make sure of quick, humane kills. A significant amount of blood loss is required to cause death. A white-tailed deer, for example, has one fluid ounce of blood for each pound of body weight. It needs to lose one-third of its blood—or about 48 fluid ounces for an average-sized deer—to cause death. For this reason, it is very important to keep the cutting edges of broadheads razor-sharp. Dull broadheads will not cut through vital areas effectively and cause the required amount of blood loss.
Comparing a Conventional Bow to a Crossbow
A crossbow is a bow with a rifle-like stock that shoots bolts or short arrows. Safe use of a crossbow requires following the safety rules for both firearms and bows. Many states have laws which limit the use of crossbows. Never travel with a loaded, cocked crossbow. Like conventional bows, the crossbow is limited to short-range shooting. As the bow is shot, the string on a conventional compound bow pushes the arrow more than twice the distance as when a crossbow is shot. Therefore, to produce the same arrow speeds, a crossbow must have more than twice the draw weight of a compound bow. Because of this much shorter "power stroke" (draw) on the crossbow it must have much heavier limbs. The powerful limbs move a short distance and stop quickly when an arrow is shot. Therefore, the crossbow must have more physical mass than a compound bow to absorb the shock, which otherwise would be transferred to the shooter. This short, heavy power stroke means the crossbow will create more noise when discharged than the conventional compound bow. In range and power, a crossbow is equivalent to a longbow or compound bow that is about half the crossbow's draw weight.
Powders for Muzzleloaders
Black powder is the only type of powder that should be used in muzzleloaders. However, synthetic substitutes, such as Pyrodex®, also can be used. Don't use modern-day smokeless powders in black powder firearms. Smokeless powders can cause serious injury if used in muzzleloaders. Black powder is made of potassium nitrate (saltpeter), sulfur, and charcoal. When ignited, it causes a dense cloud of white smoke. It comes in four sizes or granulations. FgCoarse grain typically used in cannons, rifles larger than .75 caliber, and 10-gauge shotguns or largerFFgMedium grain typically used in larger rifles between .50 and .75 caliber, 20-gauge to 12-gauge shotguns, and pistols larger than .50 caliberFFFgFine grain typically used in smaller rifles and pistols under .50 caliber and smaller shotgunsFFFFgExtra-fine grain typically used as a priming powder in flintlocks Pyrodex® and Clear Shot are black powder substitutes that can be used in amounts equal to black powder, but loading may vary. Be sure to get instructions from a qualified gunsmith for loading procedures. Substitutes are not recommended for use in flintlocks because they may not ignite from sparks as easily.
What You Learned (cont.)
Bows and Arrows The bow is a short-range hunting tool. Proper bow selection and fit are essential to your accuracy and performance when bowhunting. The most common types of bows are the longbow (stick bow), the recurve bow, and the compound bow. The safe and easy way to string a recurve bow or longbow is to use a bowstringer. To replace compound bow strings, you must use a bow press or have double tears at the end of each cable. Arrows have five parts. Shaft - The long spine of the arrow Fletching - The plastic vanes or feathers on an arrow Arrowhead - The point of the arrow Nock - A slotted plastic tip on the rear end of the arrow Crest - The area that gives information about the arrow The common types of arrowheads are bullet point, blunt point, field point, JUDO point, fish point, and broadhead. The broadhead is the only arrowhead that may be used for big game hunting. The crossbow is another short-range hunting tool. It is a bow with a rifle-like stock that shoots bolts or short arrows. Safe use of a crossbow requires following the safety rules for both firearms and bows. Before hunting with a crossbow, make sure it is legal in your state. Before practicing or hunting, an archer must examine each arrow. Check for cracks and splinters in wood arrows; creases, dents, or cracks in aluminum arrows; and crushed sidewalls on fiberglass or graphite arrows. Discard any shaft that has cracks or breaks. An arrow is as deadly as a bullet, so the basic safety rules that govern firearm shooting also apply to archery. Broadheads must be kept razor-sharp for hunting. To prevent injury, use a special wrench to screw on broadheads, keep them covered with a quiver, and take special care when field dressing bow-killed game. To shoot a bow and arrow: Stand at a right angle to the target with your feet approximately shoulder-width apart. You should feel comfortable and balanced. Nock the arrow, then simultaneously raise the bow and draw the string back to your "anchor point." Aim and release the arrow by letting your fingers slip quickly away from the string. Never dry fire a bow.
Common Types of Arrowheads—Broadheads
Broadhead: Used primarily for big game hunting. The number of steel blades it contains may vary. The only arrowhead that may be used for big game hunting is the broadhead. It must be solidly built and always razor-sharp. Many states have laws governing the minimum diameter and number of cutting edges of the broadhead used to hunt big game. Mechanical (Expandable) Blade Broadhead: Blades are retracted close to the ferrule before the shot. Upon impact, the blades expand to expose the cutting edges. These are recommended for use only with bows rated 50 pounds or more because most require additional energy to open upon penetration.
Cocking Devices—Cocking Harness
Crossbow draw weights have become heavier in recent years as consumers have demanded more speed. As draw weights have increased, the need for cocking aids has become more important. Although it is possible to cock the crossbow manually, most modern crossbow manufacturers also offer a device to assist in cocking, which is included with the crossbow when purchased or sold separately. Some devices come assembled on the crossbow itself. Two of the most common types of cocking devices are the cocking harness and the hand crank. Most individuals can cock even the heaviest drawweight crossbow using either system. Cocking Harness Cocking Harness (also called a rope-cocker): This device reduces the energy required to cock a crossbow by 50 percent. It consists of a sturdy cord, wrist straps or handles, and pulley-equipped hooks or cocking sled that temporarily attach to the crossbow string. The user cocks the crossbow in a single motion by standing up while pulling on the wrist straps or handles. The cocking harness is very efficient, although it does require some manual dexterity. It allows less physically capable individuals to cock the crossbow themselves. ← Previous
Cleaning a Muzzleloader
Firing a muzzleloader leaves a corrosive residue inside the barrel that causes pitting, which reduces accuracy. The buildup of residue, called fouling, also will make loading difficult. To avoid fouling, swab the barrel with a moist patch after each shot. The patches or cleaning rags used to wipe the barrel must be the correct size and should be made of cotton or approved synthetic materials. Follow the recommendations of retailers who sell muzzleloaders or those who regularly use muzzleloaders. Thoroughly clean a muzzleloader after each shooting session. Black powder residue can damage the barrel if left overnight. Clean the gun's lock regularly. Normally it's held in place by one or two bolts. Once the lock has been removed, scrub both sides with an old toothbrush and hot water. Make sure the entire lock is completely dry, and then lightly oil and replace it.
Projectiles for Muzzleloaders
Five types of projectiles are used in muzzleloaders. Most are melted and cast from pure lead. Round ball and patch: Round balls are traditional, but lose power and accuracy at medium and longer ranges. They usually use a cloth patch to engage the rifling. Pure lead conical or mini-ball bullet: Bullets are preferred for hunting because of their greater accuracy and power. They may or may not need a patch or plastic sabot. Sabot bullet: Sabot bullets have an enclosing case or "sabot" of plastic to engage the rifling and impart spin to the bullet. PowerBelt bullet: PowerBelt bullets have a solid plug in the base which is driven into the bullet by the ignition of the powder, expanding the bullet sides to take the rifling. Shot pellets for muzzleloading shotguns: Shot pellets spread, just as in a modern shotgun. They use fiber wads to hold them in the barrel. Bullets are preferred for hunting because they are generally more accurate at certain ranges. Shot pellets are designed to spread, just as with today's shotguns. Round balls are used mainly for target practice but also can be used for hunting.
Loading a Sidelock Muzzleloader
Loading or charging a muzzleloading firearm presents some special concerns because it requires the muzzle to be pointed upward. For rifles, position the butt on the ground between your feet. You should be facing the underside of the barrel. The muzzle should be pointed upward and away from your body. Never work directly over the muzzle. Determine if the gun is already loaded by checking the barrel with a marked ramrod, which has an "unloaded" or empty marking. If you aren't sure, consult an experienced muzzleloader user or gunsmith. Wipe and clean barrel. Use your ramrod to run a clean patch up and down the bore. Measure out the proper amount and type of powder using the calibrated powder measure. Replace the powder flask's cap, and swing the flask to the other side of your body. Pour the powder into the barrel from the measure. Tap the barrel to make sure all powder falls to the breech end. Center a lubricated precut patch over the muzzle. You can lubricate the patch using a manufactured lubricant or with saliva by placing it in your mouth. Lay the ball on the patch with the sprue or flat side up, if the ball comes with this feature. Then seat the ball and start it down the barrel using the short starter. Use the longer ramrod to push the ball the rest of the way, making sure it's seated well on the powder charge. Push the ramrod in short strokes, gripping it just a few inches above the muzzle. If you use longer strokes, you might accidentally snap the rod and injure your hands or arm. Your ramrod should be marked to show when the ball is properly seated over a specific load, such as 70 grains of FFFg powder.
Loading an In-Line Muzzleloader
Loading or charging a muzzleloading firearm presents some special concerns because it requires the muzzle to be pointed upward. For rifles, position the butt on the ground between your feet. You should be facing the underside of the barrel. The muzzle should be pointed upward and away from your body. Never work directly over the muzzle. Determine if the gun is already loaded by using a marked ramrod, which has an "unloaded" or empty marking. If you aren't sure, ask an experienced muzzleloader or gunsmith. Put the safety ON SAFE, if so equipped.If you have just fired, wait one full minute in order to let smoldering sparks in the barrel burn out before reloading.If you have not recently fired, use a cleaning rod to run a dry patch down to the bottom of the barrel and back up again to absorb any oils which could cause a misfire. Dispose of the patch. Retract the bolt (or breechblock) and place a percussion cap (or a 209 shotshell primer, depending on the gun) on the nipple or breech-plug. Close the bolt. The gun will now be cocked. Point the rifle in a safe direction. Push the safety to OFF and press the trigger to fire the cap with no charge in the barrel. This will clear any oil or debris out of the priming hole. Put the safety ON SAFE, and rest the butt of the rifle on the ground as described above. Pour in a measured amount of black powder or black powder substitute down the barrel, or drop the correct number of pre-made powder pellets down the barrel. Use the short starter rod to push the bullet into the barrel. With the long ramrod, push the bullet ALL THE WAY to the bottom of the barrel until you feel it solidly seat against the powder. (A bullet which is notfirmly seated against the powder can cause dangerous pressures on firing.) Point the gun in a safe direction, and retract the bolt. Place a fresh percussion cap (or primer) on the nipple/breech-plug, and close the bolt. The gun will now be cocked, loaded, and ready to fire. Remember... Do not cap or prime until ready to fire.
Steps for Loading a Sidelock Muzzleloader
Measure powder charge. Pour measured powder down barrel. Place patch and ball on muzzle. Tap ball into barrel with starter. Take out ramrod. Ram ball down barrel. Be sure ball is completely seated. Clear vent hole with pick if necessary. On flintlock muzzleloader, pour powder into pan and close frizzen. On percussion lock muzzleloader, place cap on nipple.
Basic Muzzleloader Safety
Muzzleloaders take a lot more knowledge to operate than modern firearms. They also present greater risks. Several rules need to be followed for safe operation. Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Do not lean over or stand in front of the muzzle. Use only black powder or a safe substitute, such as Pyrodex, in a muzzleloading firearm. Don't use modern-day smokeless powders, which could cause serious injury if used in muzzleloaders. Wait until you're ready to fire before you prime or cap a muzzleloader. Wear ear protection to avoid hearing loss. Wear shooting glasses; a long-sleeve shirt is also advisable. Burning powder creates smoke and residue that could get into your eyes or irritate your skin. Never smoke while shooting or loading or when near a powder horn or flask. Burning ashes can ignite black powder and cause an explosion. Load a muzzleloader directly from a calibrated powder measure—do not load from a horn, flask, or other container. A loose spark or glowing ember in the barrel can cause the powder to explode. Load only one charge at a time and load only from a calibrated measure—using too much or too little powder may cause damage or injury. Never blow down the barrel when reloading. You may add enough oxygen to the residue from the last shot to ignite the powder. Use loading equipment made of brass, which does not create sparks while loading. Do not cap or prime the pan until ready to fire, which prevents accidental discharge if the cock/hammer moves and causes a spark or hits the cap. Stay with your charged muzzleloader at all times. It's difficult to tell if your muzzleloader has been tampered with in your absence. Unload a muzzleloader before bringing it into your home, camp, or vehicle. Powder may ignite in the barrel, causing damage or injury.
Safely Uncock a Bow
Never use a cocking device to uncock the crossbow. The recommended method of uncocking a crossbow is to shoot an arrow from the cocked crossbow into a safe backstop. If hunting from an elevated stand or tree stand, remove the arrow from the crossbow, and leaving the safety in the on position, lower the crossbow from your stand. When safely back on ground level, shoot a practice tipped arrow into a safe backstop such as a dirt bank or other suitable target. Never leave a crossbow cocked over an extended period of time; check the owner's manual that came with your crossbow for recommended lengths of time. ← Previous
Firing a Muzzleloader
Percussion Lock Muzzleloader: When you're ready to fire the muzzleloader safely, place the percussion cap on the nipple. Be sure that your surroundings and your backstop are safe. Then aim and fire. Flintlock Muzzleloader: When priming a flintlock, pull the hammer to a half-cock position and open the priming pan cover. Check your flint, making sure the setting is tight and properly adjusted. Insert a vent pick or fine wire into the barrel's touchhole to make sure the opening is clear. With your pan primer, fill the pan about three-fourths full of FFFFg powder. Close the frizzen and pull the hammer to full cock when you're ready to fire the shot safely. After firing, place the hammer in the half-cock position and swab the barrel to remove sparks that might be inside.
Cocking A Crossbow
Place the safety on "fire" (the safety may be on the side or the rear of the sight bridge). When manually cocking a crossbow, place the ball of either foot in the cocking stirrup to prevent slippage. Bend over the stock and manually pull the string back, utilizing the strength of your hands, arms, legs, and lower back, or use a cocking device. Draw the string back along the barrel to the latching and safety mechanism. With the longer stock on recurve crossbows and some compound crossbows, you will have to lean to the side when cocking because it is not possible to bend over the stock and reach the string. When cocking by hand or with any type of cocking device, you must be extremely careful to center the string in the same trigger-latch position each time for consistent accuracy. A cocking aid ensures consistent string placement. When the crossbow is cocked, engage the safety. On some models, the safety is engaged automatically. Check the owner's manual to determine how the safety is engaged on your crossbow. Always keep the front end of a cocked crossbow pointed down range and in a safe direction, even if you do not have an arrow loaded. Do not take the safety off unless an arrow is mounted in the crossbow in the shooting position and you are ready to shoot. For consistent arrow grouping, it is important that the serving is always centered. With the manual cocking method, you want to use all four fingers on both hands to avoid risking dry-firing.
Safely Gripping the Crossbow
Potentially Dangerous Grips All three of the hand positions above are potentially dangerous and could lead to severe finger injury when firing the crossbow. Correct Grip With the leading hand in this position, there is no possibility of the cable passing over the fingers and injuring your hand.
Parts of a Muzzleloader Firearm
Primitive hunting arms include the muzzleloader firearm, the bow and arrow, and the crossbow. Today, these hunting arms are both collector's items and used for sporting purposes. Muzzleloader is the term given to early firearms because they are loaded from the muzzle or open end. Muzzleloaders are most commonly rifles. However, there are also smooth-bored muzzleloaders—shotguns. Shotgun muzzleloaders can have either a single barreled or double barrels joined side-by-side. When loading the double-barreled muzzleloader, it's very important to avoid putting the two loads down the same barrel. Double-barreled guns usually have two locks, one for each barrel. This allows the shooter to fire each barrel separately before the gun is reloaded. Most double-barreled guns were designed with two triggers. Muzzleloading handguns come as both pistols and revolvers. Pistols are mainly single-shot. The revolvers contain multiple-shot chambers. Chain firing muzzleloading revolvers can be dangerous. When the chamber round is fired, it produces sparks that could accidentally ignite loads in another cylinder(s). Therefore, be sure to protect each load in the cylinder with a coating of grease to prevent sparks from entering the open end of the other cylinders.
Releasing and Following Through
Releasing the Bow Allow your fingers to slip quickly away from the string. This gives the arrow a straight, stable flight. Keep your bow arm pointed directly at the target after the release. If the bow is jerked on release, the arrow will fly off target. Following Through Follow through by leaving your drawing hand at the anchor point well after the string is released. Don't let the bow down; hold it on the target for a few seconds. Remember... A bow should never be "dry fired." Releasing a string without an arrow nocked transfers energy back to the limbs instead of the arrow. The bow can fly apart, injuring anyone nearby.
Crossbow Safety Tips
Remember these safety tips when using a crossbow. Do not walk with a loaded crossbow. Do not cock and load your crossbow until you are in your treestand. Unload your crossbow before climbing out of your treestand. Never point a loaded crossbow at your feet while standing. Do not rely solely on the safety. Carry a target arrow and shoot into a safe backstop to unload. Never place the haul line through the trigger guard.
Parts of a Crossbow
Riser: Where the limbs attach. Cocking Stirrup: Used to aid in cocking the crossbow. The archer's foot is placed in the stirrup to prevent the bow from slipping when it is cocked. Barrel: Made of aluminum or polymer. A grooved track on top (flight groove) allows the arrow to lie in perfect alignment with the string for consistent accuracy. Stock: Made of wood or composite materials and available in many configurations. Limbs: Can be compound or recurve. A recurve crossbow must have long limbs and a longer barrel to deliver power similar to that of a compound crossbow. Latch Mechanism: Designed to capture the string when the crossbow is cocked (drawn), the latch holds the string in place until it's released by the trigger. Sight Bridge: Holds the sight. Arrow Retention Spring: Holds the arrow in the track until the trigger releases the latch mechanism. Safety: Prevents the arrow from releasing accidentally. May engage automatically or manually when the crossbow is cocked. Some crossbows have a dual safety system. Note: Since the safety is a mechanical device, it can be subject to failure. Always keep a loaded crossbow pointed in a safe direction.
Accessory Equipment
Shooting a muzzleloader is different from shooting a modern shotgun or rifle. A muzzleloader requires a number of accessories in order to be used safely and correctly. Most, if not all, of this equipment needs to be carried with you when you hunt or target shoot with a muzzleloader. The majority of this equipment is usually carried in a bag called a possibles bag. Muzzleloading Accessories Powder Horn or Flask Used to carry extra powder. Bullet Starter Conventional or hollow point bullets. Used to get bullet started down the barrel. Pan Primer Smaller container used to carry and pour the powder into the flash pan of a flintlock. Powder Measure Marked device used to measure the amount of powder charge to be used in the barrel of the muzzleloader. Pick Used to keep the flash-hole clear of debris and residue. Possibles Bag Pouch or bag used to carry all of the muzzleloading accessories. Bullet Puller Ramrod adaptor that looks like a screw. Used to remove unfired bullets from the barrel. Nipple Wrench Special wrench used to remove the nipple from percussion cap muzzleloaders. Capper Used to put percussion caps on the nipple. Percussion Caps or Flints Used to ignite the main powder charge. Patches and Patch Puller Pieces of cloth used with round ball projectiles to create a tight seal in the barrel. Puller used to pull out patches from an unfired muzzleloader or those used for cleaning. Speed Loaders Pre-measured charge and bullet. Brushes and Solvent Used to clean plastic residue and black powder fouling. Ramrod A long wooden or synthetic rod used for seating the bullet against the powder charge and for cleaning the barrel.
Steps for Cleaning a Muzzleloader
Sidelock Muzzleloader DisassemblyMake sure it is unloaded.Remove the wedge.Remove the barrel. CleaningClean inside the barrel with warm, soapy water.Clean residue from the barrel with solvent.Dry with patches.Clean the lock.Remove the nipple or flint.Scrub with soapy water.Lubricate lightly (do not lubricate frizzen).Clean the flash hole.Wipe outside metal with lubricant. ReassemblyPlace the flint in the cock and tighten.Screw in the nipple with the nipple wrench.Place the barrel in the stock.Insert the wedge. In-Line Muzzleloader DisassemblyMake sure it is unloaded.Remove the breech plug. CleaningClean inside the barrel with warm, soapy water.Clean residue from the barrel with solvent.Dry with patches.Clean the breech plug.Wipe outside metal with lubricant. ReassemblyInsert the breech plug into the muzzleloader.Lubricate threads with breech plug grease.
Unloading a Muzzleloader
There are four basic methods for unloading a muzzleloader when you are finished hunting for the day. DischargingPoint the muzzleloader at a suitable backstop.Make sure that no one is in front of your position.Discharge into the backstop. CO2 Discharger: This is the safest method.Follow the manufacturer's directions.Place on the nipple or in the flash hole.Point the muzzle in a safe direction.Discharge the bullet and powder. Modern In-Line MuzzleloaderRemove the breech plug.Push the projectile and powder out the rear of the barrel. Un-Priming: This method is the most dangerous and to be used only if absolutely necessary.Remove the cap from the nipple or powder from the pan.Cover the flash hole.Use a bullet puller to remove the bullet and pour out the powder. When a muzzleloader is unloaded, place your ramrod or loading rod in the barrel before leaning it against a good rest—this will prevent debris from falling down the barrel and blocking the touch hole.
Aiming the Bow
There are two main methods for aiming bows—bow sights and instinctive aiming. Bow sights work best when the distance to the target is known. For instance, when hunting from a tree stand or blind, you can measure the distance to the area where you expect the game to appear. Then it's a matter of lining up the appropriate sight pin on the target. In hunting situations where it's hard to know the exact distance to the target, bow sights may not work well. The key to using bow sights is to practice judging distances. Instinctive aiming is more versatile than the bow sight method. You simply look at the intended target with both eyes open and release. You adjust the aim for different distances by instinct developed with practice. Instinctive aiming takes longer to perfect than the bowsight method, but it eliminates much of the guesswork from shooting under some hunting conditions. Bow Sights vs. Instinctive Aiming With bow sights, you line up the appropriate sight pin on the target. With instinctive aiming, you simply look at the intended target with both eyes open and release.
How to Judge Distance
When judging distance from a tree stand, use the horizontal distance, not the greater diagonal distance. In this diagram you should aim for 12 yards, not 13 yards. To calculate the horizontal distance from a tree stand to a target (a), with "b" being the height of your tree stand and "c" being the diagonal distance to a target (you can establish this number using a range finder), use this simple formula:
