Types of Spirits

Absinthe

COLOR: Can be clear, more often emerald green or pale yellow (feuille morte, or "dead leaf") color REGION: Can be produced anywhere ABV: 60 to 70% ABV AGED: Not required, though more producers are experimenting with it Made from: Anise, fennel, wormwood COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Oak Aged Valkyria, Muse Verte, Pernod Absinthe, St. George Absinthe Verte, Pacifique Absinthe Verte Superiere POPULAR COCKTAILS: Corpse Reviver No.2, Death in the Afternoon, Absinthe Frappe Commonly known as "The Green Fairy" for its supposed ability to make you hallucinate, the truth is that anything freaky that happens to you after drinking absinthe has everything to do with its high alcohol content—and whatever choices you're making in your life right now. So while it might have a bit of a crazy reputation, absinthe is actually just a potently flavored liquor. Like ouzo, or even gin, it starts with a fairly neutral alcohol or wine base which is then macerated with flavorings, especially anise, fennel, and wormwood. (The wormwood is famously left out in pastis, an anise-flavored liqueur made famous by Pernod Ricard—who, it should be noted, relaunched their original Pernod Absinthe in 2013.) The wormwood was originally blamed for causing those hallucinations (thujone in wormwood, specifically), but science has pretty well concluded that the concept has no basis, no matter how inspired a bunch of artists and writers may have felt after drinking it. However that doesn't mean you should just knock Absinthe back willy nilly. Even after bans were lifted, absinthe production hasn't been universally regulated, so you'll have to pay attention the laws (or lack thereof) wherever you're buying. For instance, in the U.S., since 2007, absinthe made with wormwood can be legally distilled and sold, but must be "thujone-free." This actually means absinthe sold here can only contain trace amounts of thujone, which almost all authentically-produced absinthe already does. Likely most of us aren't going for hallucination when we buy spirits anyway. The real thing to look out for with absinthe is the flavor—it packs punch, like liquid Good n' Plenty with devilish kick. None of the flavorings are shy, and if your absinthe is well-made (not a green-tinted, artificially flavored knock-off), you should get clean, spicy-sweet notes licorice against the heat of that tremendously high ABV. In fact, given the alcohol content, it's common to take absinthe with a bit of water, which creates the same milky "louche" effect you'll get from adding water to Ouzo (due to the presence of anise oil). Our best advice when buying absinthe is, as always, do a bit of research, and don't worry about lighting any sugar cubes on fire, just add a bit of water and sip slowly.

Rum

COLOR: Clear, light amber, Dark amber REGION: Rum can legally be distilled anywhere in the world, but it's most commonly associated with places like Trinidad, Jamaica, Cuba, Guyana, Barbados, Mexico, etc. ABV: 40% ABV minimum Aging: Many, but not all, rums are aged COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Ron Zacapa, Appleton, Foursquare, Bacardi, Barbancourt, Brugal, Mount Gay POPULAR COCKTAILS: Piña Colada, Daiquiri, Planter's Punch, Dark 'N Stormy, Mai Tai, Cuba Libre There's a reason rum seems like something you should be sipping beachside, with or without a large-brimmed straw hat. While it can technically be made anywhere, rum's historically tropical, an island product brimming with history, warmth, spice, and the sweetness of that most beloved, controversial crop: sugar cane. All rum is the product of sugar cane, which is why rum—all rum—has some character that may seem like "sweetness" (without necessarily being sweet). Whatever rum is being produced, it starts with cane—pressed to remove excess water and either fermented immediately (to make rhum agricole), or boiled to create a molasses byproduct, from which most types of rum are made. Of course, this being the wide, wide world of spirits, that's not the end of the story. Rum, like many spirits, can benefit from aging (even so-called "white rum" can be briefly aged, and then charcoal-filtered for clarity). Depending on whether a rum's been pot-distilled (e.g. Jamaica, Barbados) or column-distilled (Cuba), you'll want to age it more or less aggressively. And when rum is aged (which it often is), it's aged briefly, often in previously used wooden casks, for one reason: climate. Rum is made in warmer climates, meaning any reaction between spirit and barrel is going to happen more rapidly (including evaporation of that precious Angel's Share). A charred, previously used bourbon barrel, e.g., ensures that the rum won't leach too much out of (or into) the barrel, while still getting some of that precious vanillin (not to mention spice from eugenol and lactones for tropical notes, etc.). And that's where the rainbow of rum flavors comes together, with spice, tropical fruit, vanilla and caramel swirling around in darker rums, and lighter rums showing cleaner, but still tropical fruit, softness, and spice (that sugar cane juice-derived rhum agricole tends to have a pleasantly grassier flavor). Yeast can also impact flavor (Bacardi, known for its ultra light rums, breeds yeasts that ferment molasses even faster, resulting in fewer congeners and esters and an even lighter rum). While rum doesn't tend to get as much play (because it's not aged as long, and age tends to lend spirits more cachet), it's gaining in popularity, for good reason. Here are a few key types to get you started (the ticket to a beachy island paradise is on you): White Rum: As per name, clear, lighter bodied, though often aged very briefly and filtered Gold Rum: Slightly more complex than white rums due to aging in oak barrels, still good for cocktails as they're not yet extremely complex Dark Rum: Aged for longer periods of time, with darker, fuller flavor profiles, good for sipping solo Demerera Rum: While many rums are made from sugar cane grown in Brazil, Demerera is made from cane grown in Guyana, with long aging and a rich, dark flavor profile similar to Jamaican rum; distilled using old stills, thought to be indicative of how rum used to taste Spiced Rum: A distilled rum that's been flavored with spices, usually upping the impression of spice often gotten from barrel-aging. Rhum Agricole: Made with sugar cane juice instead of molasses, so terroir (i.e. where the sugar cane was grown) is an important factor; can be white, gold, dark, etc., with flavors that incorporate vegetal notes into the complex rum backdrop Naval/Overproof: Refers to any rum that's higher alcohol (50 to 60% and above)

Liqueurs And Cordials

Liqueurs are basically liquors that have been flavored and sweetened. The term is interchangeable with "cordial," except in the U.K., where cordial can also just refer to a sweet, non-alcoholic liquid. But because the wide world of liqueurs contains so very many flavors, it's useful to know a bit about the basic structure—and purpose—of a liqueur. To understand what a liqueur is, it helps to know how a liqueur is made. How does the flavor and sweetness get in there? There are four basic methods: infusion, extraction, distillation, or smoking, any of which can be used to get your desired flavor compounds (say, herbs and florals or maybe coffee and chocolate) into a base liquor. Because you're basically painting flavor onto alcohol, a neutral base liquor is the easiest to work with. And depending on what your desired flavor profile is, you'll use one of the four flavoring methods (with the option to infuse flavors separately and then blend into one liqueur, or infuse all together). It'll help absolutely no one to go liqueur by liqueur to see how flavors are imparted, mostly since there are as many liqueurs as there are possible flavors out there (seriously, we're talking artichoke, almond, rhubarb, coffee, cinnamon, the list goes on). Also, some recipes—like the famous blend of herbs and aromatics of Chartreuse—are super secret, protected by a veritable vow of monkish silence. Better to have a list of some of the most popular liqueurs and see what you like. Bear in mind, bitter amaros are absolutely liqueurs, but because they're specifically bitter, and the flavor profile is such a distinctive thing, we're treating them in a separate entry. As for ABV, many liqueurs are lower proof, but liqueurs can range from 15 to 55% ABV, so read the label! COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, NUTS Kahlua - coffee Patron XO Café - tequila-based, coffee flavored Amaretto - almond-flavored Frangelico - hazelnut Crème de Cacao - chocolate Baileys Irish Cream - not coffee, but a whiskey-based cream liqueur often taken with coffee SPICE/HERBS/FLORALS Goldschlager - cinnamon (yes, with flecks of gold) Fireball - not a whiskey at all, a whiskey-based cinnamon liqueur Galliano - a mix of herbs, fruit, florals, but vanilla dominates Chartreuse - a brandy-based liqueur with 130 herbs, florals, and aromatics Benedictine - herbal liqueur St. Germain - elderflower liqueur Crème de Violette - violet flower liqueur Drambuie - Scotch-based liqueur flavored with heather, honey, herbs Anisette - ansie-flavored liqueur LICORICE Sambuca - Italian Jägermeister - German CITRUS Triple Sec - like Curacao, but drier in flavor (as in less sweet) Curaçao - a liqueur flavored with bitter orange peels, can be colored blue Cointreau - one of the most famous brands of triple sec Grand Marnier - also a seminal brand, a bit sweeter than Cointreau, more like Curaçao Limoncello - an Italian lemon liqueur FRUIT Chambord - red and black raspberries Sloe Gin -a gin-based liquor flavored with Sloe berries Midori - honeydew melon Cherry Heering - cherry liqueur Crème de Cassis - a blackcurrant liqueur Luxardo Maraschino - Italian cherry liqueur

Brandy

COLOR: Varies, light amber to rich ruby-brown REGION: Armagnac and Cognac regions of France, but brandy can technically be made anywhere ABV: 40% ABV (for Cognac), higher for Armagnac AGED: Varies Made from: White wine grapes, Ugni Blanc (Cognac), Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Baco Blanc, and Folle Blanche (Armagnac) COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Courvoisier, Remy Martin, Hennessey, Brillet, Gilles Brisson, Clos Martin, Darroze, Sempe, Janneau, Larressingle POPULAR COCKTAILS: The Metropolitan, Sidecar, Vieux Carre, Brandy Crusta, Mint Julep (pre-Civil War-era Juleps were made with Cognac!), New York Sour Ah, the stuff of snifters. The stuff diplomats (probably?) drink when discussing international trade agreements. The stuff with all the letters on the bottle: VS, VSOP, XO, ESP—OK, that last one's wrong. But what the hell is brandy? And why should you suffer the intimidation (and price tag) of enjoying it? Well, it's good. And it's not actually that complicated. Brandy is just distilled wine. Whereas Scotch comes from (malted) barley and vodka comes from pretty much anything, brandy can only be made by distilling wine—any fruit wine, actually: Calvados comes from apple wine and Schnaps—good Austrian Schnaps—are distilled from a variety of seasonal fruit wines. But major French brandies Cognac and Armagnac come from grapes and specific regions (the Armagnac and Cognac regions of France, logically). (Pisco is also a brandy, though both the grapes used and production process make it very different from the stuff we put into snifters.) As for that snifter stuff, a few facts to get straight: its roots are actually Dutch, going back to the days of long sea voyages, where wine was distilled to last longer. And while Cognac seems quintessentially French, they don't actually drink a ton of it—most of it's exported to China, where it's a major status symbol. Oh, and Armagnac might be lesser known, but it actually came first (around the 14th Century). Okay, now that we've got that down, the taste (which is actually best enjoyed in a small, tulip-shaped glass, not that giant snifter). Just a few elements influence the final flavor profile of an Armagnac or Cognac, but the results can be drastically different. Armagnac is made with a blend of grapes—usually four—and column-distilled twice, resulting in a fruitier, huskier, more rustic spirit that can stand up to aging in tannic black oak from the Monlezun forests—and isn't cut with water, so lands at a higher ABV. Cognac is (usually) made with just one grape, Ugni Blanc, and tends to have lighter fruit (think orange, apricot) with a more delicate profile and things like nuts, caramel, spice, and florals. As either brandy ages, they'll take on more complexity (though new wood is used only briefly, to avoid dominating the flavor profile), and you'll get progressions into flavors like prune, spice, tobacco, butterscotch, herbaceousness, mocha, etc. Again, Cognac will impart everything a bit more subtly, though both Armagnac and Cognac should have a nice, rich mouthfeel. Oh, and if you're lucky enough to have some ultra-aged (think double digits) bottles on your hands, look out for hints of "rancio," which yes sounds a bit like "rancid" because it describes the (tasty) results of oxidation—think funk, complexity, nuttiness, and even some mushroom. Despite its apparent fanciness, Cognac (and even Armagnac) are great for cocktails. Just don't buy a hundred-plus dollar bottle of vintage Armagnac and mix it. VS, or even better VSOP, are a good place to start for mixing.

Vodka

COLOR: Clear REGION: Can be made anywhere, including the U.S., though historically associated with Russia, Poland, and the European "Vodka Belt" ABV: 40% ABV (recommended) AGED: Generally not aged Made from: Commonly made from grains, like sorghum, rye, rice, wheat, but can also be made from fruits (grapes, apples, etc.), vegetables (corn, potatoes, etc.) COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Smirnoff, Svedka, Tito's, Grey Goose, Real Russian, Expedition POPULAR COCKTAILS: Moscow Mule, Vodka Tonic, Vodka Martini, Vesper, Cosmopolitan Whether you drink spirits or not, you probably know a bit about vodka. And what you know may not be very...flattering. Vodka is generally one of the earliest spirits we encounter—at parties, at the working end of an ice luge, mixed with some kind of juice in a big plastic cup. But if you're entering a more mature spirits appreciation (let's called it Spirits Appreciation 2.0), it's worthwhile to take a second look at the stuff. And truly, vodka is an iconic spirit, which is interesting considering how neutral it's meant to be. Because it's column-distilled, vodka tends to have little to no flavor. It's the kind of spirit people easily (and accurately) say "tastes like alcohol," plain and simple. But vodka can be more complex than that—beyond the rainbow of wildly flavored varieties out there, distilled vodkas can actually have varying character—depending on what they're made from, what temperature they're consumed at, whether they're taken with food, etc. (And yes, vodka is often, even traditionally, meant to be paired with food). Craft distilling has seen a minor explosion in small-batch vodkas, many produced domestically. Of course, most of what you'll get will still have the classic "clean" flavor of vodka, with maybe more or less softness on the heat and/or medicinal notes (the rougher stuff has the "rubbing alcohol" reputation). When you purchase vodka, it's good to read some reviews first, since some of the more expensive vodkas don't do much more for the spirit in terms of body or quality than more moderately priced classics. Drinking the stuff cold isn't just about masking some of the alcoholic heat; you'll get a more viscous, pleasantly rich mouthfeel (though tasting it warm might reveal some pleasant, actual flavors).

Potable Bitters (Bitter Liqueurs or Amaros)

COLOR: Varies, often dark brown REGION: Varies, though Italy is prominent ABV: Varies, 16%-30% and beyond AGED: Yes, though not for significant periods of time, only as a matter of finishing Made from: Spirits sweetened and/or infused with herbs, roots, spices, botanicals, fruits, etc. COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Nonino, Luxardo, Cynar, Campari, Fernet Branca, Ramazzotti POPULAR COCKTAILS: Amaros are used in many cocktails, increasingly (and more aggressively) with the rise of mixology Generally in human eating and drinking, calling something "bitter" isn't a great way to win it an audience. Revenge should be bitter, as should a woman scorned. But "bitters" in spirits language actually refers to a couple truly delicious—and yes, often bitter—categories of beverage. We've dealt with straight "bitters" elsewhere—the non-potable kind, tiny bottles of highly flavored, usually spirits-based liquids that are used by the drops, as seasoning for cocktails. But bitter liqueurs, aka potable bitters, aka amaros (which just means "bitter" in Italian), are another category altogether. And they deserve some attention. Like any liqueur, bitter liqueurs are made by sweetening and flavoring a base spirit. Unlike typical liqueurs—which span the gamut from creamy to spicy to floral—bitter liqueurs will always have a bit of an edge to them, that bracing bitterness that's more or less present in the mélange of flavors. Despite what you might think, this doesn't make them undrinkable. On the contrary, bitter liqueurs have been drunk on their own, especially as "digestivos", for ages. And that's because the same ingredients that lend amaros their "bitter" (and other) flavor characteristics have also been thought to have digestive—or other health-promoting—properties. Whether that's actually the case matters less in these days of, well, established medicine. What matters is whether you prefer the bracing menthol-and-bark of a Fernet Branca, or like to settle in to a late, sunny afternoon with a tall glass of Campari and soda over ice. As for the basic flavor profile of an amaro, well, that's a bit hard to pin down. Some of the darker amaros feature things like herbs, bark, roots, citrus peel, spices, while other lighter amaros like Campari feature citrus peel, florals, and spices—nothing too dark, but still an edge. Terroir—where the ingredients are grown—can also have an impact, and ABVs can vary, from 16 to 35% ABV. Basically a beautifully bitter rainbow (which, yes, includes Jägermeister). To get you started, a few more well-known Italian amaros: Fernet Branca - there are many kinds of "fernet" but this is the most well known, with deep root and spice flavors sliced through by a distinct minty freshness Campari - famously ruby red, grapefruit bitterness, florals Aperol - light, low ABV (11%), many flavors but predominating orange, gentian, rhubarb Cynar - bittersweet, made with artichoke (which terrifyingly dominates the label) but made with 13 herbs and botanicals, so it's far more complex than, well, artichokey Amaro Nonino - lush with caramel and orange, cut through with herbs from the mountains of Friuli Luxardo Amaro Abano - Luxardo is a fairly big brand, known also for Luxardo Maraschino[link to Liqueurs] and their Amaro Abano is flavored with cardamom, cinnamon, and orange peel Cardamaro - actually a fortified wine (not technically a liqueur), a Moscato-based Italian amaro flavored with cardoon and blessed thistle, less power packing and more delicately nutty and spicy Amaro Ramazzotti - a blend of 33 herbs, fruits, and spices made in the Piedmont region of Italy, with sweet oranges peeking out the most even in this lushly dark liquid

Sherry

COLOR: Very light gold to amber to rich, nutty brown REGION: Spanish province of Cadiz ABV: Varies, 15%-22% AGED: Varies, aged in wood casks in the Solera system; can be aged for decades but often sold younger Made from: Palomino Basto, Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximenez, and Muscat grapes COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Emilio Lustau, Williams & Humbert, Domecq, Gonzalez, Hidalgo, Tio Pepe POPULAR COCKTAILS: Sherry Flip, Sherry Cobbler, The Up-to-Date Sherry: the stuff of grandmotherly sipping? Not anymore. Not that grandmothers (and fathers) shouldn't sit down with a nice cream sherry to soak away the day, but the world of sherry appreciation is rapidly expanding far beyond any tidy stereotypes (in large part thanks to the interest of a new class of "mixologists"). For a newbie, sherry might seem too complicated or prim, but it's actually one of the most approachable and interesting products in the world of alcohol. Like Port, it's a fortified wine, meaning Sherry starts life as wine until someone dramatically interrupts it with a heaping serving of high-ABV neutral grain spirit (usually grape based). Not only does the spirit lift Sherry's ABV, it kills off any remaining yeast, stopping fermentation. But for Sherry, that's just the beginning. What really defines Sherry (beyond the grapes and terroir, ahem) is the way it's aged: the different types are basically expressions of the science, and slightly frustrating magic, of aging. All Sherry is aged with the Solera system—basically a cask-rotation system where the final product is a blend of younger and older Sherries. But while some sherries are oxidized—meaning allowed exposure to oxygen, which impacts the flavor—some are intentionally deprived, kept under a naturally occurring (and systematically encouraged) layer of yeast called a "flor," basically a club bouncer for oxygen trying to get into the party. Because the flor comes from ambient yeast in the winery, where Sherry is aged becomes part of its expression. When the flor disappears, on purpose or by accident (see below), oxidation occurs and darker, richer flavors arise—which is one reason why sherry can achieve the incredible hoodwink of having a sweet, fruity, nutty aroma and a bone-dry mouthfeel. (Also makes it great for food pairings and, yes, cocktails.) Here are the basic Sherries, and why each is worth exploring: Manzanilla and Fino both age under a layer of protective yeast "flor," lending them a bone-dry, nutty, tart and pleasantly yeast character, but because Manzanilla comes from a seaside town, it has a slightly brighter salinity (as you might expect from an Islay Scotch). When flor can't survive, you get Amontillado or Oloroso. Amontillado is a sherry that's been allowed some oxidation, lending it more depth and nuttiness, while Oloroso is fortified to a level where flor can't really survive, so it oxidizes more, with darker fruit and nut notes and even an impression of sweetness. Palo Cortado is a super rare Sherry that kind of exemplifies the mystery of it all: it starts life as a Fino or Amontillado (under the flor yeast), only to randomly—as in not by design—lose its flor, and continue aging as an Oloroso (with exposure to oxidation). The resulting Sherry combines the crisp, dry, delicate flavors of a Fino or Amontillado with the richness of Oloroso. (Because of its popularity, some winemakers may "fake" a Palo Cortado by combining Amontillado and Oloroso—cheaper, and not necessarily bad, but not quite the same.) Pedro Ximenez is a dessert Sherry. Made with at least 85% Pedro Ximenez grapes (picked super-mature and/or sun-dried), it's a silky-sweet, rich, aromatic wine that gains more nuttiness, herbaceousness, and funk as it ages. Despite the name, Cream Sherry has absolutely no dairy in it. A dark, sweet dessert Sherry, usually an Oloroso with sweeter Sherry (Pedro Ximenez) or Moscatel wine blended in. Good for dessert, no shawl or tea set required.

Gin

COLOR: Clear REGION: Produced heavily in the U.K. but can be produced anywhere, historically from Holland; only 13 gins have "geographical indications" ABV: Minimum 40% ABV AGED: Possibly, 3 to 6 months if desired, but not necessary Made from: Usually a grain mash (could be barley or corn), can be made from any mash to produce a neutral spirit that's then infused with botanicals including juniper COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Bombay Sapphire, Tanqueray, Ransom (Old Tom), Plymouth Gin, Berkshire Mountain Distiller's Greylock Gin (U.S.), Dorothy Parker (U.S.) POPULAR COCKTAILS: Gin Martini, Gin Gimlet, Gin & Tonic, Negroni, Tom Collins, The Last Word The eternal quandary for some people might be Vodka or Gin Martini? (Actually, most people land vehemently on one side of the debate or the other.) Truth is, but for one essential step, vodka and gin would be very much the same thing. Thankfully—for all gin lovers out there (and their numbers are growing)—that step turns gin into something entirely unique. Like vodka, gin is column-distilled (the efficient distillation method innovation by Robert Stein and Aeneas Coffey, respectively, basically allowing for continuous stripping of alcohol from water, and the loss of a lot of flavoring congeners). Unlike vodka, though, gin is distilled (or redistilled) with a very unique blend of botanicals and ingredients, resulting in a spirit that has intentional flavor, where vodka has next to none. Not only are these flavors unique, they're assertive. Whatever blend of botanicals and spices go into a gin, you'll always find some more or less prominent expression of juniper. And if you've never had juniper, just imagine drinking a Christmas tree (or Chanukah bush, or non-denominational holiday pine plant). Not that's it's quite so simple; juniper actually packs a pleasant, floral, and, yes, assertively woodsy, piney flavor. The reason gins contain juniper goes back to Genever, gin's great, funky granddaddy, a malt barley wine-based spirit that was meant to have medicinal properties but tasted pretty rough. (Juniper was added to mask the bad flavor, though modern Genevers are all about creating a beautiful, more or less pronounced ballet of sorts between malt and juniper notes). Genever continues to this day, but an offshoot—gin—left the malt barley wine behind and kept on with the juniper, though gins hardly stop there. Not only is there a solid variety of gin styles (see below), but within those styles, gin producers may use a vastly different variety and proportion of botanicals, spices, and fruits to give gin its final bouquet—anything from citrus (a favorite) to florals, spices, black pepper, herbs, cucumber, etc. The end result is a spirit that can drink respectably on its own but also lends a garden's worth of flavor to cocktails. Here, a brief primer on the basic gin styles. Worth trying, ideally at a bar (so you don't have to buy separate bottles) : 1. "London Dry" is the name of a traditionally dry (as in not at all sweet) kind of gin (often produced in the U.K.), popular for cocktails. 2. "Plymouth Gin" actually must be made in Plymouth, England, and tends to have a slightly earthier flavor profile due to more roots in the mixture of flavoring botanicals. 3. "Old Tom" gin is a recent resurrection of an old style that's historically a little sweeter (like Genever) without being as full-bodied as Genever. 4. "Navy Strength" gin is characterized by an exceptionally high proof—57% ABV and above 5. American craft distilleries are expanding on the basic definitions of gin with new bottlings.

Apple Brandy

COLOR: Clear to light amber REGION: Varies ABV: Varies, 35%-60% AGED: Yes, varies depending on style Made from: Apples COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Laird's Applejack, St. George, Santa Fe Spirits, Koval, Clear Creek POPULAR COCKTAILS: Jack Rose, Jersey Lightning, Applejack Sour Calvados and Applejack may seem like they belong at opposite sides of the lunch table, and maybe in some pre-teen after school special they would. But we know better nowadays, which is to say that both Applejack (the New Jersey-born apple-based spirit) and Calvados (the slow fermented French apple brandy) both celebrate the same thing: the glory of the apple. To be technical, Applejack isn't a brandy (any fruit wine that's been distilled), it's an apple brandy that's mixed with a fairly hefty proportion of neutral spirit. Laird's Applejack has a 35% apple brandy content that's boosted with 65% neutral grain spirit. Calvados, on the other hand, comes from double distilled cider (following after Cognac). It's distilled first to 60 proof, and then distilled again—with the distiller looking mainly for the heart of the distillate—to around 60 to 80% ABV (or 120 to 160 proof). Calvados is aged briefly (about 3 months) in lightly charred oak before it's sent to older oak casks (which won't impart as much tannin, the way an exhausted marathon dancer might not have as many leg kicks to give). And while many distillers shake their beefy fists (we assume) at the angels who took their share of the spirit, Calvados distillers often depend on it to lend their apple brandy even more depth. Applejack, on the other hand, will have a more spirituous flavor, apple (and oaky) flavors dancing around on some high proof booze—less of an apple profundity than a feisty apple expletive.

Grappa

COLOR: Clear to light gold (aged) REGION: According to the E.U., grappa should be produced in one of eight regions in Italy, but American distillers can technically use the term "grappa" ABV: 40-50% ABV AGED: Can be aged, often in oak, acacia, ash, or cherry wood casks; can be aged 1 year (vecchia), 18 months (riserva) or more Made from: Pomace, or grape skin, seed, and stem left over from winemaking COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Nonino, Storica Nera, Jacopo Poli, Candolini, Clear Creek (U.S.) POPULAR COCKTAILS: Not as prevalent, but often on after dinner/dessert drinks lists, e.g. Affogato Cocktail There's a reason grappa's traditionally served in a tiny glass—it's potent stuff. And that's because it's made from pomace, essentially the leftovers of winemaking—seeds, skins, and stems. It might have a rough reputation, but grappa's actually an incredible form of drinking ingenuity: give us the waste products of one fermentation process, and we'll turn it into another fermentation process. Italian law dictates that the pomace must be distilled solid, with no added water. And the fact that it's basically a distillate from leftovers means grappa lacks a lot of the nuance of say, a glass of red wine. Which is no doubt why the stuff's been historically, and unfairly, categorized as harsh. The fact is, old school grappa might have been a bit harsh—it was a "poor man's drink," leftover, strong, no frills. But in the past several decades, grappa production has evolved to include single varietals (where 85% of the pomace is from one grape) and more sophisticated distillation methods. As with most distilling, the cheapest way to produce grappa is in a column, or continuous, still, but many grappas nowadays are made with both continuous and alembic, or batch, stills (which impart more congeners and flavoring compounds). What you can buy today will still be potent, but there's a delicacy and a bouquet that accompanies the heat, really the essence of the grape skin that perfumes the sip.

Aquavit

COLOR: Clear to pale yellow, brown, or even reddish (depending on aging, flavoring) REGION: Denmark, Norway, Sweden, also U.S. ABV: 40% ABV minimum AGED: Can be aged, not necessary or typical Made from: Generally a potato or grain-mash flavored with spices like caraway, dill, coriander, fennel, etc. COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Arcus Linie (Norway), Aalborg (Denmark), O.P. Anderson (Sweden), North Shore Aquavit (U.S.), Krogstad Aquavit POPULAR COCKTAILS: Not common in American cocktails, but can be substituted, e.g. Swedish Mule, Swedish "Gin" and Tonic, etc. Consider flavoring component per cocktail (savory, sweet, etc.) Aquavit—a spirit that could be divisive (check out the flavorings) and yet somehow tends to bring the peoples of Norway, Denmark, and Sweden together, often over song, and usually with a loving toast. There won't be a ton of aquavit bottles at your local liquor store (unless you're Danish) but the good news for the spirit-ually exploratory is there should be at least a few. If you like a bracing spirit and aren't wary of spices—savory or sweet—a bottle of Aquavit won't disappoint. Distilled into something fairly neutral from potato or grain mash (like vodka, and a few other spirits), aquavit differentiates itself by the seasoning. The Scandinavian countries—Denmark, Norway, and Sweden—all lay claim to a solid aquavit culture, though all of their aquavit traditions differ. Swedish and Danish aquavits are more similar but for the final flavorings: in Sweden, it's fennel, anise, and citrus; in Denmark, it's dill, coriander, and caraway (with wiggle room, of course, including some potential barrel aging for Danish aquavits, as well as occasional oak or berry flavoring). Norwegian aquavit is often sherry cask-aged, but easily the coolest thing is that (at least some brands) actually carry their aging aquavit barrels on ships, crossing the equator twice ('cause why not?) as a means of influencing the interaction between barrel and spirit. Easily the most fun, and kind of profound, element of aquavit (beyond its meaning, "water of life") is the "Skal" toast that generally accompanies it, usually with specific eye contact. Taken with food—and what kind of food depends on what kind of aquavit, or vice versa—it's an extremely social spirit, less about alcohol consumption than interaction.

Baijiu

COLOR: Clear, can be slightly darker if aged or flavored REGION: China ABV: 30%-60% ABV AGED: Yes, can be aged for many years Made from: Any grain, often sorghum, rice, millet, wheat, etc. COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Maotai, Wuliangye POPULAR COCKTAILS: Often served neat, at room temperature in China You may have never heard of Baijiu, but you will. The 5000 (plus) year-old Chinese liquor is having a—fairly delayed—moment in the U.S. and abroad, and not despite its intensity, but because of it. The way other spirits are defined and refined, Baijiu is a renegade, distilled for centuries (well, millennia) from things like sorghum, rice, millet, wheat, and corn, fermented in mud pits, and distilled in big earthenware containers. In a spirits industry looking to a craft renaissance, nothing gets more "craft" than this. If you have had Baijiu, you might know of its rough reputation—there's a certain melon/cheesy/soy sauce funk to the spirit, but that's not always there, nor is it always bad (think about the terms we use to describe good Islay Scotch, e.g. Band-Aid, seaweed, iodine). In fact, there are many ways to createBaijiu, and not many laws restricting creativity. The main, consistent theme is potency—an ABV of high 30s to 60%. Hot fire, with flavor. Which is why it's also often taken with food. And interest has spurred a lot of distilling refinement and creativity. Final spirits may tend to taste like anything from cocoa and earth (a $160 bottle of Kweidrow Moutai) to the dry, hot pepper flavor of the ByeJoe Red ($30). No Baijiu is (necessarily) created equal, but they're all generally created potently, so be wary, and drink with food.

Pisco

COLOR: Clear, light amber REGION: Chile or Peru ABV: 38%-48% (Peruvian), 40% (Chilean) AGED: Peruvian aged for 3 months (not in wood); Chilean can be aged in wood Made from: Grapes, commonly Moscatel, Quebranta, Pedro Ximenez, Mollar, Torontel (it varies depending on the country of origin) COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Macchu Pisco, Pisco Porton, La Botija, Barsol Pisco POPULAR COCKTAILS: Pisco Sour, Peruvian Vesper, Pisco Whiskey Sour (Pisco can be substituted into many drinks, depending on flavor profile) Because it's distilled from wine, pisco is actually a type of brandy. And while regional variations can sometimes make understanding a spirit more difficult, the fact that both Chile and Peru lay claim to the origin of pisco is actually pretty helpful: not only does pisco production in each country vary fairly dramatically, but both are aggressively into preaching the glory of their style, one bottle at a time. Put briefly, Peruvian pisco is more an expression of the grape—or grapes, really. Peruvian pisco can be made with any combination of eight specific grapes (more or less aromatic, each imparting its own characteristics); it's distilled only once, can't be diluted, and can only come into contact with stainless steel or glass. Chilean pisco, on the other hand, is as much an expression of the choices of the distiller—with four grapes to choose from, the choice to repeat distill, and the options of wood-aging and dilution both very much on the table. Due to pretty significant variations in production, as well as the variety of grapes and terroir in play, flavor profiles absolutely vary (but tend to correspond regionally, e.g. Peruvian vs. Chilean). Anything from funk, earthiness, and minerality to spice, citrus, florals, fruit, hay and beyond is fair game. As for special terminology, "Pisco Puro" means the pisco is made from one grape, while "Acholado" means it's a blend (either before distillation or after, blending a variety of single-grape distillates). "Mosto Verde" is partially fermented grape juice that's distilled, resulting in a sweeter, lower ABV pisco variant. Pisco is increasing in popularity in the U.S., for good reason—it's cocktail and sipping friendly. If you're uninitiated, try a Pisco Sour at a decent bar (pick your pisco allegiance later).

Mezcal

COLOR: Clear, light gold, amber REGION: Made in several specific regions, but the majority of Mezcal is made in Oaxaca ABV: 40% ABV AGED: Yes. Joven (0-2 months); Reposado (2 months-1 year); Anejo (1-3 years); "Extra Anejo" (new category for mezcal, typically older than 3 years) Made from: A variety of agaves (unlike tequila, which can only be made from Blue Weber), typically made with Espadin agave COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Del Maguey Vida, Fidencio, Pierde Almas, Illegal, El Buho POPULAR COCKTAILS: Because it's relatively recent to the U.S., there aren't many "classics," but many, many classic-style cocktails are being built around the mezcal flavor profile You know may know tequila better, but mezcal came first. In fact, tequila is actually just a kind of mezcal. So in a way, you've been drinking mezcal for a while now. What? Basically, "mezcal" is any liquor made from the agave desert plant. Tequila is (by law) the product of just one agave varietal—Blue Weber, while mezcal can be made from upwards of 30 kinds of agave—though the majority is made with agave Espadin. As with tequila, mezcal relies on both the long maturation period of agave and its one-time use: the pinas, or hearts, of the agave are harvested and roasted and the whole thing needs to start again, with a new plant. The big difference in flavor profile—beyond factors like aging, yeast, and the agave varietal(s) used—is that in mezcal, agave hearts are charred, deeply roasted in pits called "palenques," imparting a smokiness to the flavor spectrum that likens it to a peated Scotch. Except it's so wonderfully different. In fact, even the "bad" mezcal can be good. Like tequila, mezcal might also be "mixto"—but whereas a mixto tequila only has to have 51% agave, a mixto mezcal must be at least 80% agave (and the rest might be derived from sugar cane). Roughly speaking, this means mezcal—though often more expensive—will also reliably have more complexity of flavor profile, which again will always be rich with smokiness but can have many other elements, thanks to the glories of agave. The agave (again, often Espadin) in mezcal might convey anything from tropical fruit to green pepper to earthiness, citrus, florals, and beyond. Whether it's aged will also impact the flavor profile (longer=mellower, richer). And factors like Single Village" (as in made with agave from one area, with ambient characteristics, or "terroir") and the use of wild or "Silvestre" agave puts mezcals very much in line with the artisan, "craft" spirit movement, something mixologists and spirits nerds alike are (rightfully) getting more and more excited about. Of course, in truth, mezcal is centuries' old, a big brawny spirit with incredible subtleties of flavor. And because of production methods, unlike tequila, joven or young mezcals tend to have a bit more to offer the palate. As for mezcals with the worm (or "gusano")—don't bother, don't overthink it, just buy stuff that tastes good (which, at the moment, isn't plentiful in the U.S., but with increased interest that may change).

Tequila

COLOR: Clear, light gold, rich amber REGION: The majority are made in the Jalisco state of Mexico (technically it can also be made in Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas) ABV: Typically 40% ABV AGED: Blanco/Joven 0-2 months; Reposado 2 months-1 year; Anejo 1-3 years; Extra Anejo at least 3 years Made from: Blue Weber Agave COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: 1800 Tequila, Patron, Gran Centenario, El Tesoro, Partida, Chinaco POPULAR COCKTAILS: Paloma, Margarita, Tequila Sunrise, El Diablo, Bloody Maria It's a shame tequila is associated with tequila cruda (that salt, lime, shot, oblivion thing). Not that shots don't have their place, but whatever tequila you're shooting—even if it's a blanco—it actually took a minimum of eight years to get to the glass. Time and respect should be paid. Produced primarily in Jalisco, tequila is the opportunistic product of the life cycle of the blue weber agave plant, a succulent (but not a cactus!) that defies desert temps to mature into a giant, spiky beast after eight years. (Seriously, the plant makes it look like the desert rebelled and got a terrifying punk haircut.) Unlike a grapevine, agave are one-time use plants: the massive heart, or pina, is cut out and processed to make tequila (or Mezcal), with much of the work being hands-on from start to finish. Because tequila can be fermented with either commercial or wild yeast (from the surface of the agave or surrounding environment), flavor profiles can express more or less subtle variation. Whether it's a highland (brighter, greener) or lowland (fruitier, earthier) will also impact the flavor profile, but stuff like that's not always written on the label, so research helps. After the pinas are cut out of the blue weber agave, they're basically steam-cooked to prepare the starches in the pina for fermentation. And while tequila, like vodka and gin, is a clear spirit, it is actually pot-distilled—meaning more congeners can remain to flavor the spirit, depending on the desires of the distiller. (Tequila is generally distilled at least twice.) Once it's been distilled to strength, tequila's either bottled (for a blanco/joven) or aged for a period of time in any variety of wooden barrel or cask (there are no strict rules here). Younger tequilas will have more of that green, earthy heat while aged tequilas will be mellower and increasingly rich and complex as age time increases. Beware of "mixto," which is tequila made with only 51% agave, and the remainder made from a neutral spirit made from cane sugar. Alas, there's plenty of mixto out there, which is fine if you're buckled in for a rough night or looking to mix for some less-than-craft-quality Margaritas. But 100% agave tequilas will reward with a ton more complexity. * There are actually a limited number of distilleries in Jalisco, so many tequila producers might actually share the same distilling space from season to season. Silver/Blanco/Joven: generally unaged (or very briefly aged, for smoothness, e.g. "Suave" styles); full of agave flavor, but also heat, and an impression—but not taste—of vegetal sweetness Gold: Basically a hybrid type, usually a mixto with coloring added to make it seem aged when it's not; best bet is buying a brand that actually states "100% agave" on the label Reposado: Meaning "rested," aged in wood barrels for 2 months to under a year Anejo: Aged between 1 and 3 years, the widest available complexly aged tequila, with softened heat and good wood character; too much aging isn't recommended, as tequila is about expression of vegetal agave Extra Anejo: A newer category, aged over 3 years, not as many examples but worth looking into if you like wood characteristics

Vermouth

COLOR: Clear, pale straw, blood orange to brownish red REGION: Traditionally made in Italy and France ABV: 15%-18% AGED: Not typically Made from: Fortified wine (wine and a neutral spirit), plus herbs, spices, aromatics, especially wormwood COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Carpano, Martini & Rossi, Noilly Prat, Cinzano, Dolin, Cocchi POPULAR COCKTAILS: Manhattan, Martini, Negroni, Rob Roy, Gibson, Vesper, Martinez, Blood and Sand, Corpse Reviver #2 You know about absinthe, right? How it's supposed to make you hallucinate because of that magical ingredient, wormwood? (It doesn't). Turns out "vermouth" is actually named for wormwood, one of its historic ingredients (the German for wormwood being "wermut," and the rest is garbled history). Modern day vermouth is actually less of a vehicle for wormwood (though it may be one of the ingredients) and in fact is a far cry from the old dusty bottles of "dry" and "sweet" vermouth you may have seen wasting away on a neglected liquor store shelf, thanks in large part to a renaissance in distilling and increasing interest in mixology. (If you get into cocktails or want to build a bar, you'll realize pretty quickly that vermouth is an essential player...) Technically, vermouth isn't a spirit but a fortified wine—a flavored, aromatized wine that's had its ABV boosted with some kind of neutral alcohol (e.g. clear grape brandy) and been flavored with a variety of herbs, botanicals, and spices. Historically, the way vermouth was flavored categorized it as either red (associated with Italy) or white/dry (associated with France). Carpano Classico is the classic red vermouth (Antonio Carpano is thought to have come up with the term "vermouth"), with dark, rich flavors like cocoa, wine, spice, toffee, herbs, etc., all intermingling with a slightly bitter edge. Carpano Antica is the classic recipe "alla vaniglia," or with vanilla added.) Dolin Blanc, on the other hand, is a classic French white vermouth made with herbs and botanicals from the Chambery region of France. And Noilly Prat's Extra Dry vermouth combines 20 herbs and spices for a complex, floral, fruity (and fully clear) vermouth with a bracingly dry finish. And then there are vermouths like Carpano's Punt e Mes, which actually has a bittersweet flavor profile likening it to bitter amaros. Complex as this is, it isn't even the end of the story. Craft distilling not only has a greater variety of classic (and new) vermouth products on the market, but renewed interest in other fortified, aromatized wines like Cocchi Barolo Chinato (historically medicinal and aggressively flavored, like Fernet, with start ingredient quinine backed up by gentian, rhubarb, cardamom, etc.) and Americano (so-named because "amer" means bitter, also with quinine, gentian, and citrus). These are all strongly flavored, so something like a classic vermouth might be a good place to start—read up on a few brands, decide if you're looking for cocktail ingredients or something to sip on its own (or both), and buy accordingly.

Ouzo

COLOR: Clear; opaque when water is added REGION: Since 2006, Ouzo can only be made in Greece ABV: Minimum 37.5% ABV, often 40% ABV AGED: Can be barrel aged to soften, not aged for long periods Made from: Grapes, anise COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Metaxa, Ouzo 12, Pilavas, Barbayannis POPULAR COCKTAILS: More often taken straight Ouzo is not trying to lie to you about what it is. Assertively anise-flavored, grape-based, clear-until-it-turns-cloudy, ouzo is a distinctively flavorful, and distinctively Greek drink. Distilled from a grape base (called tsipoura) that's flavored with herbs (wintergreen, mint, fennel) and anise and spices in copper stills to 96% ABV, it's flavored assertively (the star is anise, with costars like fennel, coriander, cloves, cinnamon, and star anise. Served in small glasses, it has a funny habit of turning white when you add water—called the "louche" effect, due to the anise oil. It does not, however, lose any of its licorice potency. So there might be a tendency to shoot ouzo back, but at that point, why bother? Your best option is to order it with a cold water back and add some of the water to the ouzo, let it turn milky white, and sip. Ouzo is often taken with snacks, or mezedes, in Greece, as an accompaniment (or precursor) to food.

Genever (Jenever)

COLOR: Extremely pale to light amber REGION: The Netherlands, Belgium, parts of Germany and France ABV: Approx. 40% AGED: Can be aged but doesn't have to be; often aged in oak barrels Made from: Malted barley, rye, corn COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Bols, Boomsma, Anchor Genevieve, Diep9 POPULAR COCKTAILS: More often drunk neat, either ice cold or at room temperature Genever. The great, mysterious, malty granddaddy of gin. Like many modern day intoxicants (the legal kind), Genever started out life as a medicine, basically a barley malt wine that was distilled to 50% ABV, intended to cure the 16th Century Dutch of, well, whatever was going around back then (one guess, a lot). The barley spirit was less than refined, so Dutch pharmacists turned to the strongly flavored juniper berry to mask its intensity (kind of like fighting fire with fire?). The juniper connection absolutely marries genever to gin, but genever is also a little bit like Scotch. Whereas gin is generally made by infusing a neutral grain spirit with a mixture of botanicals (which must always include juniper), genever is made by distilling a grain-based mash (of malted barley, rye, and corn) and then re-distilling some of that mash with juniper. The juniper-infused distillation is blended with the non-juniper distillation to the desirable balance of delicate malt and juniper that characterizes the style. And that's where some of the more fun genever terminology comes into play (if you want to blow friends' minds at a party, mention your preference for Jonge Genever). Oude genever is the "old" style, meaning it's made with more of the malt wine (minimum 15%) and less neutral spirit, while jonge genever is the "young" style, with a max of 15% malt wine and the rest neutral spirit—resulting in a much lighter, more approachable spirit. Jonge genever came about in part in response to changing preference, but also as a factor of column-distillation, and the affordability of making neutral spirit. Wood aging, of course, will also impact the spirit in both color and flavor (subtle spice, citrus, vanilla, dried fruit, etc.) The flavor of genever is basically an interplay between malt and juniper (and optional wood) characteristics, much more neutral in jonge, and a bit more pronounced in oude. Because genever's a fairly scarce product, you likely won't have as much chance for exploring it as in depth as you would, say, Scotch. But if you're ever in Belgium or The Netherlands, where genever is basically a national spirit, have at it. Just bear in mind, Korenwijn (the oldest style) is 51 to 70% malt wine-based. It's going to taste...intense.

Tennessee Whiskey

COLOR: Light brown to rich amber REGION: Tennessee ABV: At least 40% ABV AGED: Yes, in charred new oak barrels Made from: 51% corn, filled out with rye, barley, or wheat COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: George Dickel, Jack Daniel's, Prichard's, Collier and McKeel, Nelson's Green Briar POPULAR COCKTAILS: Mint Julep, Whiskey Sour, Improved Whiskey Cocktail Did someone say Tennessee Whiskey? Yes we did, but we're not hear to talk about Chris Stapleton and Justin Timberlake, we're hear to talk about a certain state's iconic beverage. Basically made in the same fashion as Bourbon—51% corn (with the rest of the mash bill filled out with rye and barley), aged in charred new white oak barrels—Tennessee Whiskey is differentiated by one more step, known as the Lincoln County Process. To be labeled Tennessee Whiskey, the whiskey must be charcoal-filtered prior to aging. Not that we want to challenge anyone from Kentucky or Tennessee (or anywhere) about what makes any particular whiskey special... The charcoal used for Tennessee Whiskey is obtained from specially selected sugar maple trees, which are often seasonally burned on the premises to make charcoal. Charcoal is used in distilling for its filtration properties (it removes the color from aged white rums), and here is thought to result in a smoother overall product—which is why the Lincoln County Process is also referred to as "charcoal mellowing." Other whiskies can be made in Tennessee, but unless they're 51% corn and use the Lincoln County Process, they won't be labeled "Tennessee Whiskey" (rather, if they're made with a large proportion of rye or corn, they might be called Tennessee Rye or Corn Whiskey). There has also been some dispute as to whether whiskies made in Tennessee but aged elsewhere (e.g. Kentucky) can still be labeled Tennessee Whiskey. From a drinker's perspective, though, expect something rich and mellow, and slightly lighter than bourbon, since that extra filtration removes more congeners.

Canadian Whisky

COLOR: Light to dark amber REGION: Canada ABV: Minimum 40% ABV AGED: Minimum 3 years in wood barrels Made from: Corn and rye COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Canadian Club, Forty Creek, Highwood, Still Waters, Crown Royal POPULAR COCKTAILS: Can be used in a variety of whisky cocktails depending on style (i.e. rye or corn content); rye heavy Canadian whiskies can be used as Rye whiskey generally If Scotch and Bourbon dominate the whisk(e)y market in swagger, Irish and Canadian whiskies are the two dark horses quietly making a comeback. Like Irish whiskey—which lost its once mega-market share due to a few historical speedbumps, including Prohibition—Canadian whisky once enjoyed more prestige in America, especially when the Civil War forced U.S. whiskey production to shut down and we looked to our neighbors to the North for some much-needed liquid courage. And like Irish whiskey, Canadian whisky still suffers some misconceptions. Among them, that it's basically interchangeable with Rye whiskey. Rye does do better in colder Canadian climates, and Canadian whiskies have been made with larger proportions of rye, but there's no law dictating any minimum quantity of rye in Canadian whisky, and most Canadian whiskey today is made with a corn-heavy mash bill. There are actually very few laws governing the production of Canadian whisky. Basically, it has to be whiskey that's produced in Canada and aged in 700-liter wood barrels for a minimum of three years. What's distilled, how it's distilled, and what variety of cask it's aged in is up to the producer. That doesn't mean Canadian whisky is some kind of chaotic mixed bag. If anything, it's an interesting and evolving market. Most Canadian whiskies are blends of a lighter, triple-distilled grain spirit and a smaller proportion of richer (often rye-heavy, but also potentially corn-heavy) "flavoring" spirit. And the resurgence in interest has Canadian distilleries exploring their options from the mash bill to distillation and aging. Flavors can span the gamut from bourbon-like (vanilla, caramel, toffee) to fruity and spicy (especially where rye comes into play), with more variety where special cask-finishing comes into play.

Bourbon

COLOR: Light to rich amber REGION: Though it's associated with Kentucky, bourbon can technically be made anywhere ABV: At least 40% ABV, Cask Strength can be significantly higher AGED: No requirements, but almost always aged, and always in charred new oak barrels Made from: At least 51% corn, the rest typically rye and barley (also possibly wheat) COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Bulleit, Maker's Mark, Buffalo Trace, Four Roses, Jim Beam, Knob Creek, Woodford Reserve POPULAR COCKTAILS: The Old Fashioned, Mint Julep, Boulevardier, Improved Whiskey Cocktail, Whiskey Sour, The Derby Ah, America's whiskey. The beautiful end result of advances in distillation, corn cultivation, and some much-needed federal regulation. But what exactly makes the special stuff so special? Short answer: corn, charred new oak, and time. (Contrary to popular belief, being made in Kentucky is optional.) Bourbon must be made with at least 51% corn in the mash (with rye and barley typically filling out the remainder), distilled to no more than 160 proof (allowing for more flavoring congeners to remain in the distillate), barreled at 125 proof, and bottled at minimum 40% ABV. Because it's made with a large proportion of corn, the spirit has an impression of sweetness, but the flavor profile has many influences: whatever makes up the rest of the grain bill, the strong influence of charred new oak, even the climate of the "rackhouse" (or rickhouse, the special storage facility where barrels of bourbon are—lovingly—piled high to the sky and rotated as they age and climate changes). Like Scotch, bourbon has some specific terminology to navigate, but let that intrigue (rather than scare) you. See, bourbon doesn't technically have any aging minimums—bourbon that touched charred new oak for 45 minutes could be sold legally. Thankfully, much bourbon is aged much longer than that. "Straight Bourbon" is basically legally compliant bourbon that's also been aged for 2 years (if it's aged less than 4 years, it has to have an age statement on the bottle, so a straight bourbon with no age statement is at least 4 years old). Bourbon labeled "Bottled In Bond" (there aren't many of them) comply with the 1897 Bottled in Bond Act—basically the U.S. government's way of guaranteeing purity at a time when practices were less than scrupulous, requiring the bourbon to be the product of one distillery and one distilling season, aged in U.S.-supervised warehouses for at least 4 years. Other terminology refers to how many barrels were used in the blending of bourbon. "Small Batch" isn't a legal term, and was actually introduced by bourbon big boy Jim Beam, but generally refers to bourbons blended from a "special" selection of barrels, intentionally blended for control and consistency. "Single Barrel" bourbons, on the other hand, come from just one barrel, expressing the idiosyncrasies of that bourbon's aging cycle rather than the skill of the distiller and blender (you don't see many single barrel Scotches, but they're out there, too). Clearly, aging, barreling, and blending will all impact the flavor profile, but bourbons generally share a sweeter, smooth undertone with varying notes of spice, caramel, vanilla, and some degree of corn sweetness. (Myriad other flavors, from tobacco and toffee to tannin, fruit, leather, etc., can show up.) "High Rye" bourbons will have more pronounced spice, "High Corn" (e.g. 60 or 70% corn in the mash bill) will be sweeter, and so-called "Wheaters" (where wheat replaces rye in the typical corn-rye-barley bourbon mash bill) are softer, and a bit sweeter. "Cask Strength" bourbons aren't cut down to 40% ABV, so they're both more potently alcoholic and flavorful. Not a great starter bourbon, but one to aspire to. And then of course there's the common term "Sour Mash" (which can be used on Tennessee Whiskey* as well). If you've made bread before, you'll get it (even if not): sour mash is simply bourbon that's had some of the mash from the previous batch added to the new mash, kind of the way you'd add part of a sour dough into your new dough, for consistency of yeast and flavor (except with bourbon, only the mash is sour, the resulting spirit is not). "Sweet Mash" uses entirely new yeast, resulting in different flavors. As you get into it, you'll notice bourbon's a bit fussed over—with some distilleries specifying the use of water filtered by the limestone shelf in Bourbon county, even Buffalo Trace's Single Oak Project (with actual, individual trees specially selected for the aging barrels). But new bourbon drinkers don't have to get hyper-specific. Again, because it's so fussed over, you're probably safe buying a fairly affordable bourbon and finding something great in the bottle. *Tennessee Whiskey is basically made exactly like bourbon, except the spirit is maple charcoal filtered (with maple trees being cut and burned into charcoal seasonally), theoretically resulting in a smoother product. Tennessee Whiskey self-differentiates, so you should see it labeled as such on the bottle.

Irish Whiskey

COLOR: Pale straw to light amber REGION: Ireland ABV: 40% AGED: Must be aged a minimum of 3 years in wood casks (new or previously used) Made from: Barley, malted and unmalted (can also be made with other added grain) COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Jameson, Redbreast, Tullamore Dew, Powers, Tyrconnell POPULAR COCKTAILS: Irish Coffee, Behind the Times, The Emerald, The Copywriter, The Irish Cocktail The Irish probably got their first, but by now Scotch whisky is arguably more famous (and not just for deleting that "e"). But that doesn't mean Irish whiskey isn't worth exploring, especially since it's enjoying a much-deserved comeback. See, Ireland was once teeming with distilleries. And while, thanks to some historical hiccups, only four distilleries remain—New Midleton, Cooley, and Kilbeggan are all relatively young, while Bushmills was founded in 1608 (yup)—Irish whiskey is on the rise. But what makes whiskey Irish? Legally, it's just whiskey born and raised in Ireland, distilled to no higher than 94.8% ABV and wood-aged for a minimum of three years. Clearly there's more than a little wiggle room here, which distilleries are using to their advantage to create interesting, globally competitive whiskies. For one, Irish whiskey is typically blended, but that doesn't mean distilleries aren't experimenting with single malt. Irish whiskey is also generally unpeated, but again, exceptions are possible (as with Cooley's Connemara). And while many Irish whiskies are triple-distilled—theoretically one reason Irish whiskey is smoother and lighter than Scotch—again that rule isn't hard and fast. As for how it'd distilled, Irish whiskey used to be made exclusively in pot stills, but today they can be either pot-distilled or a mixture of column- and pot-distilled spirits. A very specific Irish whiskey term to note: pot still or single pot still, which means the whiskey is pot-distilled mixture of both malted and unmalted, or green, barley, which imparts a certain (delicious) oiliness and spice. Another difference of note, Unlike Scotch, Irish whiskies are allowed to add enzymes to assist in preparing starches for fermentation. But when it comes to aging, as with scotch, Irish whiskies can mature in a variety of vessels—Madeira casks, Sherry casks, Bourbon barrels, rum barrels, etc.—and finished barley whiskies can also be blended with grain whiskies to make the final product. Given that ability to mix and match and experiment (with peat, grain, finishing casks, etc.), Irish whiskey is defying most old school stereotypes. Not that Irish whiskies aren't often still often smooth or light, they're just also, increasingly, a lot more, showcasing anything from heather, herbs, and grass to light fruit, honey, almond, toffee, butterscotch, clove, apples, and golden raisins (and counting).

Scotch Whisky

COLOR: Pale straw/gold to rich, nutty amber REGION: Scotland (see Regions below) ABV: Minimum 40% ABV AGED: "Scotch whisky" must be aged in oak casks for minimum 3 years, often much longer; youngest Scotch in the bottle dictates the age statement Made from: Barley and other grains COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: The Balvenie, Lagavulin, Highland Park, Ardbeg, Talisker, The Macallan POPULAR COCKTAILS: The Blood and Sand, Penicillin, The Rusty Nail What's so special about Scotch? For one, it's whisky spelled without the "e." But that's the tip of the tip of the very big iceberg. Fortunately, as varied as the world of Scotch whisky can be, and as intimidatingly unpronounceable as many distillery names seem, there are some unifying factors that underlie the whole grand thing. Getting technical: Scotch can be made with other grains, but it must contain malted barley. Malted barley is really the defining grain of Scotch, as important to Scotch as peat (or as important as peat can be to a certain variety of Scotches, as we'll see). Single malt Scotch is pot-distilled, which means the distillate will retain more of the flavorful congeners (carefully separated out from the bad stuff, of course, by a Master Distiller, likely with a great thick accent), but Scotch can also be column-distilled (more common when it's a blend of pot-distilled Single Malt and column-distilled grain whiskies). As for alcohol content: Scotch can only be distilled to 94.8% ABV, which is higher than bourbon. But, like bourbon, it has to be bottled at minimum 40% ABV—and, like bourbon, Scotch can be bottled at higher, hotter "Cask Strength," where no water was added after aging to bring the ABV down (most Cask Strengths clock in in the 50 and 60% ABVs). Unlike bourbon—which has no aging minimums—Scotch has to age in oak casks (typically previously used oak casks) for at least 3 years. And while Single Malts are made by one distillery (that's what the "single" refers to), many blended Scotches are actually made with malts gathered from various distilleries and combined by a Master Blender. Thus, cooperation is key to Scotch's varied and burgeoning industry (Japanese whisky, made after the fashion of Scotch, goes a different route.) Even with these underlying factors, variety abounds*, in part because Scotch is produced in a handful of distinct regions, with distilling traditions and environmental conditions that heavily influence the final flavor of the Scotch. One major factor you'll notice immediately as you get into Scotch is whether it's been peated—which is to say, whether the malted barley has been dried over a peat fire, resulting in a distinctive smoky, oily, even campfirey flavor (among others). Peat can act as a dividing line in Scotch appreciation: some like it, some don't. Another factor that influences Scotch is what it was aged in. While bourbon can only be aged in new barrels, Scotch can be aged in previously used barrels—and, in fact, is often aged in those previously used bourbon barrels, as well as casks used for Sherry, Port, Madeira, wine, rum, brandy, and beyond. Scotch is even more historically fussed-over than bourbon (and with good reason), and by now many distillers will age their Scotches in one kind of barrel, and "finish" them (for briefer periods) in another. Basically, it's an incredible refined, but still somehow profoundly rustic, party in your mouth. Truly, Scotch could taste like anything from flowers to Christmas spiced fruitcake to—unused—Band-Aid to heather, honey, full-on Girl Scouts of America-sanctioned campfire, seaweed brine, walnuts, toffee, dried fruit, and, yes, malt. But very helpful in the world of Scotch navigation is a rough consistency in styles (at least as far as environment can influence them) from region to Scotch-producing region. Very roughly, with some single malt characteristics: Highlands: A large geographical area, so large that characteristics vary depending on coastal influences (or a lack thereof); depending on where it's made, you'll find notes of salinity, spice, light smoke, fruit, florals, heather, honey, often with a dry finish. Dalmore, Dalwhinnie, Glenmorangie, Oban, Loch Lomond Speyside: A subdivision of Highlands, but the distinctive—and most prolific—Scotch producing region there is; sometimes lightly peated, but more often sweeter (and/or Sherry-finished), with notes of honey, fruit, vanilla, spice, etc. Glenfiddich, The Balvenie, Glen Livet, The Macallan Islands: Also a subdivision of Highlands, referring to a group of islands at the very northernmost tip of Scotland, including Skye, Jura, and Orkney. Although coastal and slightly saline, with aging notes of nuts, fruit, spice, et.c, not as aggressively peated as Islay. Highland Park, Arran, Talisker Lowlands: Another large geographical area with rolling hills, generally unpeated Scotches, lighter-bodied, generally unpeated, delicate sweetness and light fruit. A very good beginner region. Auchentoshan, Glenkichie Islay: Pronounced Eee-luh. Known for strong maritime influence, with strong, saline Scotches that can go aggressively peaty but can also express medicinal, iodine, and maritime flavors (in addition to character from malt and wood-aging). Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Caol Ila, Laphroaig, Lagavulin Campbeltown: Not a region you're as likely to encounter, as only a few distilleries still operate there, although they all produce distinctive Single Malts. Glen Scotia, Longrow, Kilkerran *You may encounter Scotches from distilleries that are now closed, which are rare or collectors' bottles; independent bottlers may also bottle Scotches from years that are not normally bottled, e.g. 17 years (where a distillery tends to bottle at 8 or 10 or 15 years); Scotch distilleries may also share between them single malts etc., to produce proprietary blends (a cooperation that's not followed by Japanese whisky, which otherwise generally emulates Scotch)

Japanese Whisky

COLOR: Pales straw gold to rich amber REGION: Japan ABV: Varies, 40% ABV, comparable to Scotch AGED: Yes, in wood casks, can be aged in Japanese Mizunara oak Made from: Malted barley and other grains COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Yamazaki, Yoichi, Hakushu, Chichibu, Shinshu, White Oak POPULAR COCKTAILS: Japanese whisky can be used in many whisk(e)y cocktails; just substitute according to the style There's a reason Japanese whisky is spelled, like Scotch, without the "e." It was inspired by, and still takes after, Scotch whisky. A burgeoning, and rapidly excelling, market, Japanese whisky really began with one guy—Masataka Taketsuru, a Japanese national who went to Scotland to study organic chemistry in 1918, and instead fell in love with Scotch production. Which, to be fair, is a different kind of chemistry, a science he brought home with him to found Yamazaki and Yoichi distilleries (Japan's first and second whisky distilleries, respectively). Since then—and in a comparatively short time in the world of whiskey—Japanese whisky has evolved to a place of major esteem; in 2014, whiskey critic Jim Murray named Yamazaki's 2013 Single Malt Sherry Cask "the best whisky in the world." So how is it made? Like Scotch, Japanese whisky relies heavily on malted barley (often peated and even imported from Scotland) that's mashed and distilled twice in pot stills, yielding more residual congeners (which it's up to the distiller to incorporate, or cut, skillfully). Other (column-distilled) grain whiskies may be blended in, if it's a single malt. And, like Scotch, Japanese whisky is wood-aged, sometimes in American oak, sometimes in Sherry casks, and sometimes in Japanese Mizunara oak, which imparts unique characteristics (think citrus, spice, incense). Japan's distilleries are (mostly) owned by two companies, Nikka and Suntory. Unlike Scottish distilleries, there is no sharing between distilleries in Japan, so innovation must come from within—which works out, since the companies own distilleries in different microclimates all over Japan, so making a blend just means getting whiskies from one of your distilleries to another. Because of such reliance on internal innovation, it's not very easy to pin down a Japanese whisky style, though there is a general emphasis on refinement and texture. Production does follow after the fashion of Scotch (especially Lowland and Speyside, with some exceptions of course), but it's not bound to any hard and fast traditions, meaning a bottle might have anything from vanilla, spice, malt, nuts, and fruit to smoke, herbs, citrus, honey, etc. Selection is limited, but quality, and prices, are generally high. Research pays off.

Rye Whiskey

COLOR: Rich amber REGION: Can legally be produced anywhere in the U.S. ABV: Minimum 40% ABV AGED: No aging minimum, but often aged in new charred oak; "Straight Rye" aged at least 2 years Made from: At least 51% rye COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Templeton, Redemption, Bulleit, WhistlePig, Dad's Hat, Anchor POPULAR COCKTAILS: Sazerac, Brooklyn, Rye Old Fashioned Rye might have a distinct flavor profile—since rye itself is a pretty distinctive grain, able to stand out against even the aggressive hoppiness of an IPA beer—but it's actually made in a similar fashion to bourbon. Whereas bourbon's 51% corn, rye's 51%, well, rye, the rest being filled out by anything from corn to malted barley to wheat, etc. Like bourbon, a typical rye mash will have some "sour mash" from the previous production cycle added back to it—ensuring a consistency of yeast and flavor (not tanginess, though). And like bourbon, rye is aged in charred new oak barrels, which is where it gets its color and even more spice. Also like bourbon, rye is distilled to no more than 160 proof (meaning it's stripped of fewer congeners, or flavor compounds), and it's bottled at minimum 40% ABV. But rye, of course, is not bourbon—and lovers of whiskey variety rejoice—again, owing to the distinct, assertive flavor of rye, which even after mellowing in charred oak can kick around in your palate with a lively spiciness. Rye will also have notes of caramel and vanilla from the barrels, and, depending on how it's aged or blended, might showcase a variety of other flavors. Rye doesn't have specific aging minimums, but as with any whiskey, it benefits from some carefully regulated aging. "Straight Rye," like "Straight Bourbon," is aged at least 2 years (like Straight Bourbon, if it's aged under 4 years, Straight Rye has to have an age statement on the label). While rye has historically been made with up to 100% rye (known as the Monongahela style), today most rye is made with a far more modest, but still hefty, rye content, which finishes dryer—balanced out by a large proportion of corn (39%). With the craft distilling boom, of course, old school, high rye styles are being revived—though, as can happen with distilled spirits, the distilling itself is sometimes done at a larger facility (Midwest Grain Products, who make a 95% rye) and sold to various smaller producers, e.g. Templeton, Bulleit, etc. To avoid confusion, and rye-intensity, beginner rye drinkers would do best to start middle of the road before (if ever) going full-rye.

Port

COLOR: Straw gold (white port) to Rich Amber (Tawny) to Reddish Purple (Ruby and Vintage) REGION: Duoro region of Portugal ABV: 16%-20% AGED: Yes. Tawny port can be aged for decades (and blended); Vintage port meant to be aged in the bottle; Ruby port is briefly wood-aged and bottled. Made from: Grapes, close to 100 permitted for Red Port and half as many for White Port; the 5 most common for Red Port are Tempranillo, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesca, and Touriga Nacional COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Fonseca, Taylor Fladgate, Dow, Fortnum POPULAR COCKTAILS: The Coffee Cocktail, Elk's Own, Prey of Thieves Like Sherry and Vermouth, Port is a fortified (but not aromatized) wine, meaning it's wine plus a stronger ABV neutral spirit, generally aged, and yes, sipped out of special little glasses. But port's more than the sum of old school stereotypes—it spans the gamut from refreshingly juicy to richly complex. And it starts like wine, with a blend of grapes being crushed and fermented (and agitated, basically knocking as much flavor out of the grapes as possible). Unlike wines, which may feature single grape varietals, port production is about the art of blending. But what really differentiates port is fortification: about halfway into fermentation, a neutral spirit is added, killing all the yeast (since higher ABV levels are actually toxic to yeast). Depending on if and how it's treated next, you'll get one of four kinds of port. We've all probably heard the term "tawny port" (it kind of sounds like something you'd christen a yacht), but there's also vintage, ruby, and white. Don't worry, lots of labelling regulations (courtesy of the Instituto dos Vinhos do Duoro e do Porto) make it pretty clear what's what. Vintage port is easy to lock down: if a vintage was great, the port is bottled and sold, the idea being it should be aged in the bottle by the consumer (which won't do what wood-aging does, but theoretically allows the aromatic and flavorful complexity of the port to cohere into a rich, sophisticated unity). Non-vintage ruby ports are actually sent to age for a few years in a wood vessel, then bottled for immediate drinking, resulting in juicy, fruity ports that are great as aperitifs. And then there's tawny, one of the more fun but confusing terms in drinking, which actually just refers to a port that blends proportions of non-vintage port that's been hyper-aged in small wooden barrels for decades (the smaller barrel means even more exposure to wood, increasing the effects of aging). The older the tawny port, the more wood character you'll get, which is why tawny port (as opposed to vintage) is the more intense differentiation—woody, sweet, with notes of lighter dried fruit. As for white ports, the concept is essentially the same, except it's done with dry, white Portuguese grapes, resulting in a lighter, more delicate port with light fruit flavors that's also a good aperitif and can be aged to fuller complexity.

Cachaça

COLOR: Typically clear, but some producers darken it with caramel coloring to indicate aging REGION: Brazil ABV: 38%-54% ABV AGED: Not often aged, but to qualify as aged at least 50% of the spirit must be aged at least one year; white cachaça may be aged to soften for up to 1 year; dark cachaça can be aged 3+ years Made from: Sugarcane juice COMMERCIAL EXAMPLES: Leblon Cachaca, Avua, Ypioca, Cachaca 51 POPULAR COCKTAILS: Caipirinha (national cocktail of Brazil) To be fair, you won't see many different brands of cachaça (ka-shah-suh) on bar shelves these days, but you'll probably see at least one, which is an improvement. Meanwhile, in its native Brazil, you'll find thousands of producers (and counting). So while the internationally community is still catching on to the obvious appeal of this lively, complex spirit, it doesn't quite need our approval... Kind of like white rum, which is a light spirit made from sugar cane, cachaça differs in that it's not made from sugarcane molasses but the cane juice itself (not unlike rhum agricole), lending it a more floral, grassy, herbaceous flavor profile than its rum counterparts (Brazil is strictly fighting the idea that cachaça is a kind of rum). If and when cachaça's aged—white cachaça generally isn't, but dark is—it might be aged in oak or any number of native Brazilian woods, which can further alter the flavor profile. Good quality young cachaças should have some of that sugarcane juice earthy, green flavor, while aged cachaças will borrow a rainbow of flavors from the wood. Avoid "industrial" cachaça if you can—it's produced in column-stills, all emphasis on efficiency and bulk. If you're looking for flavor and not just burn, go for smaller batch, pot-distilled cachaça.