Wine Start 53

How Saint Valentine (Sort of) Saved French Wine

Many people associate wine with romance. But the residents of Roquemaure, a small town just north of Avignon in France, link Rhône wine and a kissing free-for-all with a devastating blight and a pilgrimage to a saint. La Festo de Poutoun, or the "Feast of Kisses," is less than 35 years old. The festival's inspiration, however, goes back to 1866, when phylloxera decimated French vineyards. As a consequence, Roquemaure's shipping trade dried up, once among the busiest ports on the Rhône river. Panic spread faster than the pest. With nothing left to try, Maximilien Pichaud, who owned Château de Clary in Roquemaure, traveled to Rome to bring back relics of any patron saint that could provide protection and health. Legends start to spin from here. In more romantic stories, Pichaud set out to bring Saint Valentine's relics back to Roquemaure by February 14. In reality, Pichaud didn't set out for any specific saint's relics. He returned on October 25, 1868, not on Valentine's Day. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY After Pichaud's return, the blight continued for several more years. But one thing is for certain: When St. Valentine's relics arrived, the panic stopped, and there was dancing and wild rejoicing in the streets. Modern-day La Festo de Poutoun After he viewed St. Valentine's relics in 1988 at the town's collegiate church, a local priest, René Durieu, was inspired to restart the processional. This would become the town's defining event. The multi-day festival, held on the weekend closest to Valentine's Day, has had many forms. It's known as the "Festival of Kissing," "Feast of Lovers" and, the more inclusive "Festival of Kissing, Friendship and Lovers." The festival's earliest version was a kissing bacchanalia where faux nuns and monks ran about drinking wine and sharing smooches. Opportunities for a friendly kiss remain, but La Festo de Poutoun has expanded its purpose. During the festival, Roquemaure converts its streets and shops back to the 19th century. The pharmacy reverts to apothecary vials, and more than 600 costumed participants partake in old-timey activities like hanging laundry in the streets from the public washhouse. The ring of blacksmiths' hammers can also be heard before sunrise. And later, festivalgoers can hear bagpipes and barrel organs that pump out dancing music. Naturally, the festival includes wine. Coopers make barrels with the historic Côtes du Rhône (CDR) stamp. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre dominate the local scene. Vintners from the local Lirac, Laudun and Chusclan appellations come to share their wisdom and harvest. If the timing for pruning is right, winemakers join the town's parade with bundles of vines. By whatever name and in whatever form, the festival celebrates both the wine industry and town's survival, then and now. While festivities are on hold in the era of social distancing, festival organizers declare, the love story between Roquemaure and St. Valentine, with vineyards at its heart, is as strong as ever.

Should you put ice cubes in wine?

Nothing is more refreshing than a cool glass of wine when the weather heats up - but what if your wine hasn't been in the fridge? We speak to our experts about whether ice is the answer, and give some alternative options too... Ellie DouglasJune 2, 2021 Credit: Anna Ivanova / Alamy Stock Photo Affiliate Ask Decanter Highlights It is commonly believed that putting ice cubes in your wine is a faux pas; watering down and diluting the flavours of the wine. In Decanter's 'Confessions of a Sommelier' series, putting ice cubes into white wine was often cited as the 'most annoying customer habit'. 'My worst customer habit is when a guest asks for ice cubes to chill an expensive bottle of white Burgundy,' said Maria Wallèn, speaking when she was head sommelier at London's Coya. In a recent survey of Decanter's Instagram followers, 75% said they would never put ice cubes in their wine. However, several wineries have released wines intended to be served with ice, including Moët Ice Impérial Rosé NV launched in 2016 (see below), and Freixenet's Ice Rosé. In some Mediterranean countries, it is also becoming more common to be offered ice when served white or rosé wine on restaurant terraces. Peter Richards MW said, 'My take is: do whatever you want with your wine as long as it makes you happy! That's what wine's for, after all. 'But, unless you're drinking super-fast, the ice will melt and dilute the wine and it won't taste as good.' Alternative methods to putting ice in wine Richards recommends putting a few grapes in your freezer instead, and then putting frozen grapes in your glass of wine. 'If you pop these in your glass, it will chill the wine without diluting it.' Many wine lovers argue that there are enough gadgets to help you chill wine in a hurry, so no need to dilute it unnecessarily with ice. For example, the Corkcicle wine chiller, which you keep in your freezer, then slot into your wine bottle when you're ready and it cools the wine as it pours. 'A cool sleeve, such as the Le Creuset Cooler Sleeve, is less messy,' said Matt Walls in his article on red wines to serve chilled. 'Since most of these can be flattened, they can also be used as a cushion to keep decanters of red wine cool.' Corkcicle wine chiller£18 on Amazon UK BUY NOW Le Creuset cooler sleeve£21 on Amazon UK BUY NOW If you're at home, you can always put wine in your freezer. Wrap in a damp kitchen towel or cloth to speed it up, recommends Xavier Rousset MS - just make sure you then don't forget it's in there! And finally, when organised enough to chill your wine in advance, Richards also said, 'Don't forget this applies to reds in warm weather too - stick them in the fridge for 20 mins before serving'. Moët & Chandon, Ice Impérial Rosé, Champagne, France + Add to My Wines |Buy Now$69.99 Launched in 2016, Moët's Ice Impérial Rosé is specifically designed to be poured over ice - cooling normal Champagne down so much can accentuate its high acidity and throw it out of balance. Tasted on its own, this is flat, flabby and quite sweet, but it completely transforms when poured... Points89

ISOSCELES Justin

Philosophy In 1987, we made our first vintage of a wine styled after the famous First Growth producers of Bordeaux, created with the same uncompromising care as the Grands Vins of those venerable chateaux. For more than 25 vintages, ISOSCELES has been our flagship wine and quality benchmark for this style of wine here on the Central Coast of California. A blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon supported by Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the 2017 ISOSCELES shows why Paso Robles is such a great place to grow these varieties. Full-bodied, with ripe black fruit, complex barrel spice and amazingly ready to drink right out of the gate, you can try a bottle or two now, but make sure to save a few to enjoy this wine as it continues to evolve after some time in the cellar. Vintage Notes 2017 started with a cold, wet winter that replenished the dry soils throughout Paso Robles after five years of drought. Warmer weather in March encouraged a slightly early bud break late and a few well-spaced showers added to the season's precipitation totals. May was warm and with the generous moisture contained in the soils, heavy vegetative growth on the vines prompted careful and early canopy management in order to balance vine development for the coming season. Things turned very hot in June and July with record breaking heat that caused an early veraison in late July. The hot weather continued throughout August pushing ripeness levels and causing some concern with early ripening varieties, but things cooled off nicely early in September balancing maturity and ripeness levels in the fruit and normalizing our harvest schedule until we completed our harvest of our last Cabernet in early November. Vinification Fermentation: Stainless steel open and closed top tanks with twice daily pump overs Maturation: Barrel aged for 21 months in 100% new French oak Tasting Notes by Jim Gerakaris, CWE - JUSTIN Winery Sommelier Appearance: Dark ruby/purple/black core, lighter ruby/purple toward the rim with moderate plus viscosity and slow forming, moderately stained tears. Aroma: Highly aromatic and complex with lush, ripe black cherry, black currant and boysenberry with vanilla, cinnamon spice, sweet tobacco and savory notes of leather, camphor and cedar. Palate: Full bodied and luxuriant with ripe black fruit, mostly cherry and black currant with mixed ripe berries and barrel spice on entry. The mid-palate features continued fruit with subtle savory elements of autumn leaf, leather, and cedar with rounded, plush tannins that extend into a long finish featuring black cherry and camphor notes. The 2017 ISOSCELES is a full, complex and rich wine that is drinking nicely on release and will offer added complexity in a few years. Try it with a slowly braised beef or lamb stew, or with a taste of high quality dark chocolate The core of our winemaking philosophy, and the iconic wine that put JUSTIN on the map. Varietal Composition: 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot Appellation: Paso Robles Bottling Data: pH: 3.72 Total Acidity: 0.60 g/100ml Alcohol: 15.0% by volume Bottle Date: August 12 - August 27, 2019

How Pros Pair Wine with Plant-Based Proteins

Plant-based proteins have long been a dietary staple in China and Japan, and they're gaining traction among many U.S. consumers, too. You won't only find vegan meats in the frozen aisle of health food stores, either. They're on menus at national chains from Denny's to Burger King. According to Nielsen data, from March to May 2020, sales of plant-based meats surged 264%. The bottom line? Vegan "meats" from brands like Boca, Impossible and Beyond look to be here to stay. So, we better start figuring out how to pair them with wine. Hristian Iliev, the head sommelier of Carbone at Aria Resort & Casino in Las Vegas, follows a vegan diet at home. He says that pairing with plant-based meats requires a bit of finesse. "Most mock meats lack that distinct flesh smell and texture, so I would approach them with slightly more elegant wines," he says. That often translates to light- to medium-bodied reds with pronounced acidity and low tannin levels, or crisper whites. And don't be afraid of some bubbles. "In general, meat substitutes are fairly bland and rely on sauces or preparation," says Jeff Harding, wine director at New York City's Waverly Inn. He suggests letting those flavors guide your wine choices. "If it's fried, use a crisp, dry white," says Harding. "If it needs ketchup, a crisp, dry white or a high-acid red." "I really like how juicy Barbera brings fruit to the smoky charcoal aromas of the Beyond." —Hristian Iliev, head sommelier, Carbone Drew Brady, who selects wines for Overthrow Hospitality's family of eight New York City vegan restaurants, draws on nostalgia when pairing wine with an Impossible Burger, made with engineered proteins that have an uncannily beef-like taste and texture. "For many plant-based eaters, the memories of non-plant-based meats are fresh, the juicy burgers, the greasy fingers," says Brady. "I want to pair wines that offer a gentle nod to the past while providing a new excitement for the future." Carmenère, he says, is a go-to choice that's "full of nuance." Harding opts for Loire Valley Cabernet Franc or juicy Beaujolais alongside the Impossible. "Pair it like a burger," he says, simply. Ferdinando Mucerino of Vegan Wines, America's first online vegan wine club, says that Impossible Burgers call for a tart, juicy red with "a good amount of acid and gentle tannins." He recommends Italian wines made with Barbera, Dolcetto or Nerello Mascalese. Barbera also pairs well with Beyond Meat, made with proteins derived from peas and mung beans, says Iliev. "If I'm making a classic burger, I'd pair it with a great Barbera d'Asti," he says. "I really like how juicy Barbera brings fruit to the smoky charcoal aromas of the Beyond." The Ultimate Guide to Vegan Cheese and Wine Pairings It's generally safe to follow many of your preconceived pairing rules, like serving lighter wines with plant-based proteins that mimic white meat. But certain products benefit from more unexpected combinations. Iliev finds that Boca Chik'n Veggie Patties, for instance, are improved by the "power and intensity" of a Grenache-based Châteauneuf-du-Pape. "Here's a good rule of thumb for wine pairings and all things breaded: Find the right bubbles," says Mucerino, who suggests a brut Champagne rosé to pair with Boca's spicy version of the patties, noting that the sparkler's yeasty characteristics "pair wonderfully with the breading on the patty." Because of his years following a vegan diet, Iliev has pairing suggestions for nearly any kind of fake meat, from weeknight meals to holiday staples. Field Roast Sausages, which he says are very often in his fridge, work with a lighter red. "We can always rely on the great classics from Burgundy," he says. "A nice Pinot Noir from Pommard made by Domaine de Montille will bring the right amount of fruit and acid to play with the smoky and lightly spiced sausage." Tofurky, meanwhile, is a Thanksgiving classic, prepared with lots of dried sage, rosemary and thyme. "I like pairing it with a great bottle of Barolo," says Iliev. "The Nebbiolo tannins withstand the texture, while the dried red-fruit aromas play well with this dish that always reminds me of autumn." Is Wine Vegetarian, Vegan or Neither? Plant-based seafoods, like Sophie's Kitchen's vegan fish filets, smoked salmon and canned "toona," also benefit from traditional wine pairings. Many of these products contain seaweed powder to imitate seafood's trademark brininess. "Our vegan crab cakes are full of wonderful spices like pepper, mustard, nutmeg, bay leaf and paprika, which are nicely accented when paired with a light Pinot, such as a Pinot from California's Russian River Valley," says Miles Woodruff, CEO of Sophie's Kitchen. He also suggests using the plant-based shrimp in spicy "bang bang" tacos, which he likes to serve with "a fruit-forward Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand to balance out the spice." Regardless of the specific vegan dish you're pairing, it's all about balance. "My aim is to engage the palate's tasting receptors and to create a bite/sip experience that comes full circle," says Mucerino. "I pick a wine that will either complement, enhance or complete a missing flavor to create the perfect mouthfeel."

The New Rules of Wine Glasses? There are No Rules.

Stephanie Summerson Hall's earliest childhood memories are soaked in a kaleidoscope of color. Hall's grandmother, Estelle, was an avid collector of Depression-era glassware. At her South Carolina home, Estelle's heirlooms sat perched in two china cabinets until ripe for picking on holidays and Sunday dinners when she'd honor those who gathered with a feast served in sparkling emerald green- and amber-colored glassware. "She'd serve her vegetables, her rice in those bowls," says Hall. Colorful goblets would also be filled with iced tea. "Those were her special pieces." Hall began to build her own collection several years ago, soon after she became a homeowner. However, she found it difficult to source the colored pieces that she coveted. She launched Estelle Colored Glass, an artisanal glassware company that hand-blows an assortment of wine glasses in eye-catching jewel tones, pastels and more. The pieces link Hall to her heritage and to memories of the treasures that once bedazzled her grandmother's table. Hall's wares are also a breath of colorful whimsy at a time when small indulgences mean so much. The glasses provide a rainbow of possibilities with which to reimagine how we drink. GLASSWARE STYLES CYCLE IN AND OUT OF FASHION / PHOTO BY TOM ARENA Last year, during the pandemic, a study claimed that Americans drank 14% more often. As regulars at the wine bars of our own homes, we've had time to reassess the wines we enjoy, the way we purchase them and our preferred drinking vessels, too. We've been emboldened, motivated to go for it, whether it's to splurge on a set of high-end stemware earmarked for everyday usage, or to find solace in meaningful, nontraditional pieces that evoke joy despite, perhaps, their lack of technical accuracy. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY In The Psychology of Wine: Truths and Beauty by the Glass (Praeger, 2009), authors Evan and Brian Mitchell ask a provocative question: How much of what we perceive as taste is physiological, "and how much is psychological, given that beauty and grace of form possess an astonishingly emphatic power of suggestion?" By redefining traditional glassware rules, wine lovers give form, function and personal preference equal footing. "I think anything can be a wine glass," says sommelier Danielle Norris, a sales representative for Cream Wine and Spirits, and cofounder of the wine educational platform, Slik Wines. "In my house, I drink mostly out of small pint mason jars for wine." IS HYPERSPECIFIC WINE STEMWARE WORTH IT? The movement to widen our outlook on food and wine pairings beyond the dominant, Eurocentric lens had gained steam pre-pandemic. During shutdowns, our homes became casual, judgment-free spaces where our interpretations reshaped our connection to what and how we eat and drink. "I think in the setting of hanging out with friends, I want to show something fun and interesting and different," says Miguel de Leon, a sommelier, wine writer and wine director at Pinch Chinese. "So, maybe I'll break out old McDonald's glassware that I found at a thrift shop and that's really fun to drink fun wine out of. Not everything has to be so serious." The influence of nostalgia shouldn't be underestimated, says de Leon. As regulars at the wine bars of our own homes, we've had time to reassess the wines we enjoy, the way we purchase them and our preferred drinking vessels, too. Glassware styles cycle in and out of fashion. The 1920's Champagne coupes with ornate etching or lavish gilt were replaced by long, slender flutes, which remain emblematic of celebrations and status in many circles. More recently, some wine experts began to serve bubbles in white wine glasses. They say it benefits the wine's aromatics. Alpana Singh, the esteemed sommelier, restaurateur, and host of Check, Please!, recalls several significant contemporary wine glassware shifts that were prominent in bars and restaurants. "I do remember the wine glasses [of the 1990s] were kind of like this big, clunky, thick-lip, Libbey glasses," says Singh. The rise of fine dining gave way to luxe stemware. The ceremony of bringing out wine glasses was an essential part of the dining experience. "Everybody was clinking on it, and you could hear the chime," she says. Singh points to Chicago's legendary Charlie Trotter's restaurant as an early adopter, and she credits Larry Stone, a master sommelier, for his help to spearhead it. By the late '90s, high-end stemware was expected at fine-dining restaurants across the country. "It was sort of shocking if you went to a five-star restaurant and they didn't have nice glassware that matched the grandeur of the bottle ordered," says Singh. MANY WINE LOVERS ARE REDEFINING TRADITIONAL GLASSWARE RULES / PHOTO BY TOM ARENA Other standouts, according to Singh, include Riedel's introduction of varietal-specific glasses, and of course, the then-eyebrow-raising introduction of stemless glassware. "It's been almost 20 years," says Singh. "And now people don't balk at screwcaps, and people don't balk at stemless." In restaurants, fine glassware is often considered an extension of the brand, one that signals the dining experience ahead. It sets the tone for the diner. And it creates context. "There's how I drink at home, when I have people over—casual comfort," says Norris. "And then there's when I'm presenting to a class." When she teaches, Norris uses all-purpose stemware with a medium-sizes bowl. "I want to present in a wine glass because I think that that level of professionalism has to be." HOW TO CLEAN WINE GLASSES, ACCORDING TO SIX WINE PROFESSIONALS De Leon considers academia an appropriate setting for traditional stemware. In other spaces, personal connections to the wine, and the ability to put your stamp on it, is far more powerful than so-called correctness. "I think we're really understanding that personal preference is going to be arbiter of taste, instead of anything else that is 'correct,' " he says. "I always like challenging that question, like, 'Correct for who?' " As social drinking outside of our homes ramps up, Singh sees a through line. "I think anything goes nowadays, and I think that as the lines get blurred between how we enjoy wine at home and how we enjoy wine at restaurants, customers are a lot more comfortable with it," she says. Wine glassware today is less about rules and more about joy. Your chosen vessel may bring forth memories of Grandma's house, like Hall. It could offer an indulgent pop culture moment, à la Olivia Pope. Or it may transport you to a destination sorely missed, like the blue waves reminiscent of the beach that the late B. Smith hand-painted onto wine goblets for the cover of B. Smith: Rituals and Celebrations. Regardless, your wine moment belongs to you.

What is malolactic fermentation? - ask Decanter

The process 'softens' the acidity of wines through the conversion of harsh-tasting malic acid into softer lactic acid. Chris WilsonSeptember 15, 2020 Credit: Eric Cook, Unsplash Ask Decanter Highlights Put simply malolactic fermentation or MLF is the conversion of malic acid into lactic acid within a must or wine. It's a common - and in some styles necessary - step which takes place in the winery and is facilitated by lactic bacteria, commonly Oenococcus oeni. The process 'softens' the acidity of wines through the conversion of harsh-tasting malic acid into softer lactic acid, and it also raises the pH of the wine. The bacteria can be introduced to the wine via inoculation during or after alcoholic fermentation, but in many wineries the bacteria is present in the cellar so spontaneous MLF can occur. The bacteria like to operate in a warm environment (+16 degrees Celsius) and traditionally this meant winemakers had to wait until the spring following the harvest for the malolactic fermentation to occur. However, modern cellars and tanks can be heated up to allow the malolactic fermentation to start as soon as desired. The process, which is technically a bacterial conversion rather than a fermentation because it doesn't use yeast, also helps to stabilise the wine by preventing it from going through spontaneous MLF later, potentially after bottling. Does MLF benefit all wines? No, not at all. MLF is generally undesirable in some styles of wine, particularly aromatic and zingy, high acid whites such as Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Winemakers can inhibit malolactic fermentation by adding SO2 to wines post-fermentation or through the use of enzymes, such as lysozyme. Red wines more commonly benefit from MLF than whites, where high acidity is a key character of the wine. Exceptions include Chardonnay and Viognier, which routinely go through 'malo' and can have great appeal with softer, more rounded acidity. There are no hard and fast rules, though. In Bordeaux in 2014, for example, châteaux used various techniques - including MLF - to control high acidity in white wines made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.< 'Several white wine producers took the unusual step of performing the secondary malolactic fermentation of their Semillon or Sauvignon Blanc grapes, in an attempt to tame the high acidity that has been a feature of the Bordeaux 2014 vintage,' wrote Jane Anson for Decanter.com when reviewing the vintage in 2015. The late professor Denis Dubourdieu, one of Bordeaux's most respected winemakers and wine researchers, noted in his summary of the 2014 vintage that partial malolactic fermentation 'rarely practiced on white Bordeaux... was recommended for the most acidic lots. When well done, this made the wines rounder without detracting from their typicity'. Are there any red wines where MLF is best avoided? While most reds undergo MLF to help accentuate fruity and berry characters and remove some of the harsh acid notes, reds that have been grown in very warm climates and lack natural acidity do not benefit from the process because it makes them less balanced and unstable. Many red wines undergo malolactic fermentation in barrels. As well as taming brisk acidity and enhancing fruit notes, this can promote a wine's smoky and spicy notes, too. Wines typically aged in oak undergo MLF, so this is one way of deciphering whether a wine has gone through malo or not; other clues include a creamy, oily texture, a rounder acid profile and a higher pH - if you have access to the technical data.

What Your Chardonnay's Hue Says About How It Was Made

Widely planted around the world, this grape models just how much vinification methods can affect the character and color of wine. Even without delving into sparkling options, bottlings can run the gamut of pale and racy to deep and rich, with a wide and happy middle ground. The color in your glass may hold clues about how the wine was made and how it will taste. We take you through the spectrum of Chardonnay styles, from lightest to darkest. Pale lights Chardonnay that's a pale gold or straw color is likely to have been aged in stainless steel. Its faint color indicates that it was made without the oxidative effect of oak, which adds both color and body. These wines also will likely not have undergone malolactic fermentation, which adds creaminess. Without that for balance, this style is acid-driven and fresh. Made all over the world, bottles like this are often priced affordably and intended for immediate consumption. Chablis, in northwest Burgundy, is perhaps the most famous for it. There, it carries notes of citrus fruits, green apples, minerality and salinity. Bottlings from coastal regions in California, as well as a dwindling number of unoaked Willamette Valley Chardonnays, will carry similar characteristics. In other parts of the world, ranging from Mendoza and South Africa's Western Cape, to Italy and Washington State, unoaked Chardonnays may carry riper, more tropical fruit notes balanced by that signature acidity. Photo illustration by Tom Arena Starting to color Many winemakers are looking for ways to marry some of the benefits of oak with Chardonnay's naturally bright fruit characteristics. This can be achieved through a few techniques, or a combination: The wine only spends a little bit of time in oak; it's aged in very large and/or neutral oak barrels; or unoaked wine is blended with oaked before bottling. Sometimes, a portion or all of the wine will undergo malolactic fermentation, which adds creamy, buttery notes. This style is often used for bottles with a slightly higher premium, such as Grand Cru Chablis, and those from the Côte d'Or in Burgundy, the Willamette Valley, Tasmania and Marlborough, New Zealand. In these cooler regions, where it can be challenging to achieve peak ripeness, the technique gives wines body and a bit more longevity, while still showcasing the purity of the fruit. Look for those same citrus, green fruit and mineral components you'd find in an unoaked bottle, along with more texture, pear and white flower notes, and sometimes a hint of vanilla or baking spice from the oak. A Wine Geek's Guide to Chardonnay Clones Around the World Golden child This style is produced in many of the same ways as its paler cousins to the left. As winemakers look to achieve a perfect balance for their specific Chardonnay, they may find themselves incorporating a little bit more oak, and possibly more malolactic fermentation, to best support grapes that have more ripe characteristics. These wines hail from Napa, Sonoma and California's Central Coast, as producers there look to break the mold of consumer expectations about the state's Chardonnay. But they also may be produced anywhere from Chile to Sicily to Australia to New Zealand's North Island. Generally made in warmer climates, they'll lean into the grape's tropical qualities, with notes of pineapple alongside ripe apple and pear. Often, you'll be able to detect coconut, hazelnut or vanilla notes from the oak, as well as potentially some of that buttery malolactic mouthfeel. What differentiates these wines from those deeper, darker ones is that they maintain the finesse and freshness of good acidity. The fruit is still the prevailing characteristic, not the structure or oak notes. They can run the gamut costwise, with some affordable bottles (and boxes) intended for immediate consumption, and others that are built to age and carry a price tag that reflects that. When Did 'Malo' Become a Bad Word? Going deep There's no way around it: This style is divisive. There's much to enjoy about it, especially the particularly well-made bottlings. However, it's also what fueled the Anything But Chardonnay (ABC) movement, the thing that may be on the mind of people who claim not to like Chardonnay. These rich pours will have undergone rigorous oak treatment, often in new, well-toasted American oak barrels, as well as malolactic fermentation. They're produced in a manner often reserved for red wines, which originates from earlier American winemakers who simply did not have a whole lot of basis in tradition to guide their Chardonnay production. It became somewhat of a signature that helped differentiate New World-style wines from Old World. The word most often used to describe them will be "buttery," but they'll still carry lots of ripe pear and golden apple notes, along with a bit of tart pineapple flavor. California is the home of this particular style, although there are a handful of compelling offerings from Washington.

Expert's choice: Tawny Ports

Winter is the ideal excuse - as if one were needed - to remind yourself of just how delicious these cask-aged, fortified treasures of the Douro can be. Sarah Ahmed picks her 18 favourites. Sarah AhmedDecember 11, 2020 Exclusive Highlights Magazine: January 2021 Issue Port Tastings Home Vintage Port may be king, but colheita Ports [single-vintage aged tawnies] are popular by election,' says Dirk Niepoort who, by a long chalk, holds the world record for the most expensive Port sold at auction. In 2019, a bespoke Lalique decanter of Niepoort 1863 fetched more than £100,000 at a Sotheby's sale in Hong Kong. Scroll down for Sarah Ahmed's 18 favourite Tawny Ports With luxury packaging and positioning, the rise of rare aged colheitas this last decade has added considerable lustre to the tawny Port category - and broadened the scope for anniversary gifting beyond vintage Port. During this period, demand for non-vintage tawnies has surged too. Sarah Ahmed picks her favourite Tawny Ports Kopke, Colheita, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 1941 + Add to My Wines Bottled in 2020, a beautifully aged colheita, with a scintillating, finely tuned nose and palate. Appetisingly high-toned, yet honeyed and caressing, with spicy chutney, black... Quinta do Noval, 40 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Terrific stature and visceral intensity. Tightly wound acidity, a touch of volatile acidity and Cognac-like spirit drive to the kaleidoscopic palate, unleashing a never-ending panoply... Andresen, 40 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Intense but elegant; very much the house style of this wood-aged specialist, which is also a pioneer of aged white Port. Beautiful integration of spirit,... Quinta do Noval, 20 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines A chip off the (40-year-old) block, Quinta do Noval's 20-year-old has excellent structure and drive. Together with the fresh acidity, heady yet controlled Cognac-like spirit... Quinta do Vallado, 30 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Vallado's 30-year-old is sourced from old field-blend vines planted to more than 35 different grape varieties. A pale, delicate hue, with lifted orange peel, saffron... Taylor's, 30 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines A bright, ruddy tawny, with an olive rim. Vigorous on both the nose and palate, with a classy Cognac-like spirit character and lifted drive. Well-structured,... Andresen, Colheita, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal, 2005 + Add to My Wines Rolling, very persistent citrussy acidity and saline (ozone) notes balance the seductive toffee apple, caramelised orange and salt caramel, with subtle mocha nuances. Lovely freshness,... Graham's, 30 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Builds harmoniously in the glass, with lovely depth and layers, revealing crystallised violets, lavender, cedar, dried pear and fig, plus Madeira honeycake, with creamy praline... Quinta de la Rosa, 20 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines A blend from the older dry-stone terraced vineyards at Quinta de la Rosa. Delicate yet with a fruity spectrum of flavours: lingering tangerine peel, grapefruit... Churchill's, 10 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Sourced from old vines in Churchill's Cima Corgo estates. Made in the drier, robust, spicy house style, this is a characterful 10-year-old, with peppery, liquorice-laced,... Niepoort, 10 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Aged in small 550L old oak casks in Niepoort's cellars at Vila Nova de Gaia, this svelte 10-year-old has detail and an appetising, salty edge... Sandeman, 30 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Though the final blend comprises 25- to 40-year-old wines, with its reddish-orange topaz hue, freshness and fruit intensity, this is a relatively youthful-seeming 30-year-old. Caramelised... Ramos Pinto, Quinta do Bom Retiro 20 Year Old, Port, Portugal + Add to My Wines Unusually, Ramos Pinto's 10- and 20-year-old tawnies are single-estate wines. From Quinta do Bom Retiro in the Cima Corgo, this is a bold style with... Graham's, 10 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines A luscious, super-moreish tawny, with notes of sweet orange peel, mellow Madeira honey cake, almond/marzipan and salted caramel. Silky, honeyed mouthfeel, with praline to the... Vasques de Carvalho, 20 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Ageing in the Douro in small barrels, but sourcing from the cooler Baixo Corgo sub-region makes for a rich but spicy palate, with good persistence.... Tesco, Finest 10 Year Old, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Made by the Symington Family, this may not be as concentrated or lingering as the family's producer-labelled wines but, priced accordingly, it hits all the... Quinta da Pedra Alta, Alta No10 10 Year Old, Port, Portugal + Add to My Wines Blended using small amounts of Port from barrels aged at least 40 years. Satin-smooth, with a luscious butterscotch-edged depth to its rum and raisin fruit.... Sainsbury's, Tawny, Port, Douro Valley, Portugal + Add to My Wines Aged in large-format, old oak barrels for two to three years, this youthfully plummy, entry-level example could be a pale ruby Port, but for the...

Matching wine with Curry - Le Cordon Bleu

Winter is upon us, so now is the perfect time for indulging in some warming comfort food, and I cannot think of anything more warming, literally speaking, than curry. Beer is the traditional English accompaniment but wine can work equally well, if not better for enhancing those flavours. Wine with Curry: Top matches It's all about the sauce Choose whether you want to feel the heat or play it cool Feel the heat - new world Chardonnay or GSM Play it cool - German Riesling, Grüner Veltliner or Gewürztraminer Full article on drinking wine with Curry Winter is upon us, so now is the perfect time for indulging in some warming comfort food, and I cannot think of anything more warming, literally speaking, than curry. In order to narrow it down a little bit we will focus more on a traditional Indian curry and not the stomach wrenching, hangover cure, English version. There are countless spices used in curries but the most common are red chilli, turmeric, coriander (seeds or leaves), cumin seeds, peppercorn, fennel seeds, clove, cardamom, cinnamon, cassia, nutmeg and mace, star anise, nigella (onion seeds), fenugreek seeds... and that is to name but a few! The secret is for the spices to be cooked before being added to the base of the curry which is generally made of tomato, onion, fresh garlic and ginger. If seeds are used they should be fried in vegetable oil, and if the spices are powdered then they should be toasted, which will allow them to retain their aromatic properties rather than just adding heat to the dish. Sauce, not meat, fish or vegetables, is key During the food matching unit of our Diploma in Wine, Gastronomy and Management, our students are taken on an educational lunch to an Indian restaurant where they get to experience how different wines react to a variety on Indian spices. From this trip they learn that disregarding of the meat, fish or vegetables that accompany the curry, it is really the sauce and its seasoning that influences the beverage that one will pair with the dish. Another influencing factor is of course, the affinity of the drinker with the heat. Some will want to cool down the effect of the ginger and chilli and others will want to enhance it, but before you decide which wine to choose, you will need to take into consideration some basic interactions between the wine components and the hot spices as follows; Acidity - the acidity in wine makes the mouth water and therefore helps to sooth the fierceness of the spices. Sugar - sugar has a coating effect and acts as a barrier between the food and your taste buds, protecting them and toning down the heat. Alcohol - this enhances the perception of spiciness, especially from the red chilli, ginger and turmeric. Tannins - tannins clash with the sweetness and acidity imparted by the onions and the tomatoes, and introduces more bitterness. It also enhances the perception of heat. Reduce heat If you want to sooth the heat then a wine (red or white) with high acidity, moderate alcohol and very low or no tannins is paramount. On top of that, sweetness is definitely going to be a bonus. This sounds exactly like an off-dry Riesling along the line of a Kabinett or an Auslese from a respectable German producer. The Brauneberger Riesling Kabinett made by Fritz Haag from the Mosel in a 2 or 3 year old vintage would be perfect. It is brimming with very ripe citrus, peach and has a lovely almost juicy, mineral acidity that refreshes the palate. Make sure you check the label when choosing a German wine, because if 'trocken' appears after the words Kabinett or Spätlese, the wine will be dry. As there are alternatives abound, one could also indulge in other aromatic grape varieties such as Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner or Torrontés to name but a few. The ideal soothing red would be a very fruity version of a Pinot Noir, a New World one being more appropriate like the juicy 2015 Picnic Pinot Noir made by the Two Paddocks winery in Central Otago, New Zealand, which is bursting with ripe red fruit violet, with a very refreshing finish. A light style of Valpolicella from Italy or Mencia from Spain would also work a treat. Feel the heat For the brave who like to feel the heat, anything other than the aforementioned should work. I would recommend in all cases to stick to younger, riper styles of wines, and avoid those with too much complexity as the spices might dominate any subtlety present in the wine. The white version of a spice booster would be a New World oaky Chardonnay loaded with exotic fruit, vanilla, pineapple and a slightly higher alcohol content of around 13.5% ABV, such has the 2014 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay from La Crema Vineyard in California, which is ripe with sweet spices and white peach. As a red, you could go for an Australian Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre (GSM) such as the 2014 Miss Harry made by Hewitson vineyard in the Barossa Valley. This wine is reminiscent of blackberries, black peppercorn and Mediterranean fragrant herbs with a creamy, concentrated slightly spicy palate. As it could be considered an Australian version of Côtes du Rhône, any of those would work. Now all that is left for you to do is chose a camp and decide whether you want to feel the heat or play it cool! About Matthieu Longuère MS Matthieu Longuere is a Master Sommelier based at Le Cordon Bleu London, a leading culinary arts, wine and management school. Sommelier in the UK since 1994, he has won numerous awards and accolades for wine lists in the establishments for which he has worked: Lucknam Park Country House Hotel, Hotel du Vin Bristol and La Trompette. Since joining Le Cordon Bleu in 2013, he has developed the school's comprehensive Diploma in Wine, Gastronomy and Management; a unique programme which combines the theory of wine with a strong emphasis on practical learning. Alongside the full Diploma, he also teaches an array of evening classes which are relaxed, yet studious, making them perfect for beginners as well as the more knowledgeable.

Carol Shelton Zinfandel Mendocino County Wild Thing Old Vine 2018

(91 points, $19)A juicy bomb of fruit, this red is also well-structured, with lively raspberry, toasty spice and roasted sage flavors that linger on a snappy finish. Drink now through 2028. 9,085 cases made. From California.—Tim Fish

Quilt 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Magnum 1.5L

About Quilt 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Magnum 1.5L Joseph Wagner is a fifth generation Napa Valley winemaker with a dedicated passion for the business. Joe's roots in the winemaking began at an early age. His family founded Caymus Vineyards in Napa Valley. In 2014, Joe formed Copper Cane Wine & Provisions, with a focus on innovation and genuine craftsmanship, Copper Cane Wines & Provisions houses a collection of brands that are crafted to offer a touch of luxury for everyday indulgence. QUilt is one of those innovative wines. Drawing from a patchwork of six prime Napa Valley AVAs to create full-bodied, rich, and decadent wines, Quilt exemplifies the classic structure of wines from the region, while the blending of fruit from a variety of vineyards allows the wines to maintain more complexity and a better style consistency from vintage to vintage.Fruit was sourced from Oakville, St Helena, Atlas Peak, Coombsville, Calistoga, and Howell Mountain for this 2017 Quilt Cabernet The winemaking process started by picking fruit at optimum maturity. Once in the cellar, lots were separated by individual vineyard. The wine underwent extended maceration and each lot was re-evaluated before moving the wine to classic Bordeaux and Burgundy barrels (70% new oak, 30% seasoned) where it underwent malolactic fermentation. The wine was racked every 4 to 6 months until blending 20 months later. The final blend came about after numerous blind tastings to create a seamless quilt from a rich patchwork of wines. Wine Spectator just scored this 92 points saying "Frankly ripe, with a vivid beam of creamed plum, açaí and boysenberry fruit flavors, glistening with vanilla-accented toast through a polished finish. Aimed squarely at the hedonist crowd. Drink now through 2022."These Mags are On Sale, don't miss it!!! Wine Details Alcohol % 15.0% Bottle Size 1.5 L Wine Type Red Country United States Region California Appellation Napa

How to let a wine breathe, and when - Ask Decanter

Your kitchen doesn't have to resemble a science experiment, but some wines are considered to benefit from a bit of breathing space before you drink them. Ellie DouglasMarch 11, 2021 Credit: Decanter Ask Decanter When people talk about letting wine breathe, this is really about exposing the wine to oxygen by allowing it to aerate before you drink it. There is a lot of debate about the necessity of doing so, but aerating some wines is broadly considered to release more of the wine's aromas and soften tannins - which can be particularly helpful on a young, full-bodied red wine. You can let a wine breath by decanting it, but several experts believe that simply swirling the wine in your glass can have the desired effect in many cases. There are kitchen gadgets that claim to aerate wine, although 'several don't make much difference', Ronan Sayburn MS told Decanter in 2016. What most experts can agree on is that just opening the wine and leaving the contents in the bottle won't really help. The neck opening is so small that your wine isn't going to get enough air in time for dinner, nor probably even for tomorrow morning's breakfast. On the other hand, this feature also helps the wine to last for a couple of days - and sometimes longer - after opening. Letting wine breathe: When should you do it? Swirling your glass is effectively aerating the wine, even if briefly, but what about letting a wine breathe for a longer period of time? 'I always give the same advice to people,' said Clément Robert MS, a Decanter World Wine Awards judge and named the UK's best sommelier in 2013. 'It is important to have researched the wine; to know the character of the wine and how it should taste,' he told Decanter.com in 2017. 'If you were, for example, in the presence of a fragile wine, like an old vintage bottle, then I would not risk aerating it too much. I would probably open it in advance and try to find the right type of glass. 'Personally, I would recommend a Bordeaux glass rather than pouring it in to a decanter.' If decanting a wine, Robert said that he would allow it to sit in the decanter for around one hour, on average. Does it really make a difference to taste? You'll hear many wine critics talk about how a wine's character can change in the glass over time, and over several days once the bottle has been uncorked. Perhaps you have also noticed this yourself. As mentioned above, it is commonly asserted that aerating some wines - particularly bolder reds - can help to soften tannins and release fruit flavours. If your wine has mild reductive aromas like struck match or sulphur-like odours on opening - and you're not a fan - then allowing the wine to breathe can reduce their intensity, as Natasha Hughes MW writes. In 2016, an article in the Journal of Agricultural Chemistry found evidence that ethanol evaporates once a wine has been poured into the glass, slightly lowering the abv content. It said this was strongly influenced by exposure to air. As part of this process, the researchers noted that, 'Evaporation also resulted in decreases in the concentration of some fermentation volatiles and a perceptible change in wine aroma.' Professor Andrew Waterhouse, a wine chemist at UC Davis in California, wrote in Scientific American back in 2004 that 'a wine's aroma will change during the first 10 to 30 minutes the bottle is open'. He said that decanting accelerates the breathing process by encouraging volatile aromas to evaporate and emphasising fruit and oak aromas. However, he also said that decanting may not improve less complex wines designed for immediate consumption, while some white wines' fruit aromas could actually lose intensity. Others have argued that advances in winemaking mean that fewer wines require the sort of aeration that might have been considered beneficial in the past. Double decanting A main advantage of decanting wines, and especially older vintages, is that you won't get a glass full of sediment as you near the end of the bottle. However, some producers prefer to double decant younger wines, too, and particularly those that have high tannin levels. This involves pouring the wine into a decanter and then back into the bottle. 'It's good for the young vintages to do this, for more aeration,' said Pierre Graffeuille, director of Château Léoville Las Cases, at a masterclass of the St-Julien estate's wines held during Decanter's Bordeaux Fine Wine Encounter 2017. 'It's definitely better to double decant if you can - give it at least one hour,' he said. Fragile wines Be careful with older vintages, which can be much more sensitive once opened and may lose fruit aromas much more quickly. 'You could transform a great wine into vinegar by letting it breathe for too long,' said Clément Robert MS. 'Old vintages are the most fragile.' He added, 'Personally, I would not carafe or decant a Pinot Noir as I like the primary characters of the grape.' In the case of most white wines, Steven Spurrier said in 2016 that, 'because they don't have tannins, the need for aeration is rarely necessary. 'However, I would decant young and old white Rhônes and mature Alsace Rieslings - and both at the last minute.' Do try it at home Perhaps the best thing to do is conduct your own research, which may necessarily involve opening a bottle or two. 'You could make a 'minimal-oxygenating' decant by running the wine down the side of the decanter,' said Sally Easton MW, responding to a reader question in the February 2021 issue of Decanter magazine. 'Or a 'maximal-oxygenating' decant by pouring fast, directly to the bottom of the decanter to create as much splashback (surface area in contact with air) as possible.' 'For in-glass aeration, you could absolutely blow into the wine with a straw, more or less gently, according to how much aeration you're after.' 'Alternatively, you could blow over the surface of the wine, creating mini eruptions (from personal experience, beware of splashback onto your face).' 'Or, if your glass is small enough (your hand big enough), you might place one hand over the top of the glass, and, holding the glass with your other hand, shake your two-handed-glass unit, more or less vigorously for more or less aeration (have something ready on which to dry your hand). I've used this option too, when I've thought a bit of aeration on a young, tannic red might open it up a bit. Have fun experimenting!' This article was originally published on Decanter.com in 2017. It was updated by Chris Mercer in May 2020, and with comments from Sally Easton in March 2021.

The Differences Between Coastal and Inland Wine Regions

An agricultural product, wine is tied to nature, so vines are influenced by weather patterns, orientation to the sun and soil hydration. And vineyards planted near grow and are cultivated differently than those situated inland, away from water. The average consumer may not consider these factors when choosing or drinking a bottle of wine, but they play an important role in what's in your glass. What is a coastal region or coastal vineyard? A coastal region or coastal vineyard is just that: vines that grow near a large body of water. However, coastal vineyards are not necessarily planted on a cliff at water's edge. They can be near a coast or influenced by the coast, as in the case of South Africa's Coastal Region, which is within 100 miles of the Southern Ocean. "Vineyards closer to the ocean are more susceptible to the dynamic weather that comes [off the water] because they are less protected than lower lying vineyards inland," says Chantal Forthun, winemaker for Flowers Vineyards & Winery on the Sonoma Coast. "A strong gust can bring in cold air and fog and bring the temperature down drastically in only a matter of minutes, so the daily climatic conditions can change on a dime." This allows for a long growing season. Flowers Vineyard & Winery / Photo by Adrian Gaut Many coastal wine regions have a maritime climate, which, according to the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), "are characterized by cool to moderate temperatures and a low annual difference between the hottest and coldest months." Some coastal vineyards are planted at high elevations, often above the fog line, which is a viticultural boon. These areas have relatively stable temperatures that affect the grapes' ripening ability since there's little diurnal swing, or temperature fluctuation between day and night. Vines above the fog line can enjoy sun exposure all day, which is beneficial for ripening. Those waves and cool ocean temperatures often dictate the winds that cool down the vineyard sites. Wind is so important in viticulture that many of them have their own names: in South Africa there's the Cape Doctor, a southeasterly wind that funnels down the mountains and creates a fog layer that blankets vineyards; in Chile, the Humboldt Current comes up from Antarctica to cool the hot, arid climate. These winds tend to be most prevalent along coastal sites and protect the vines in a variety of ways. The Real Difference Between Cool-Climate and Warm-Climate Wine What is an inland region? Inland vineyards are further away from bodies of water so they don't benefit from cooling ocean influences. And because the vineyards are planted farther away from bodies of water, they tend to be warmer and trap heat. Inland valleys and regions generally receive sun all day. If they're in warm or hot climates, winemakers here rely more on diurnal swing, or the aforementioned day-night temperature swings, to ripen grapes. The heat during the day ripens while the cool evenings—sometimes 40 degrees cooler— helps grapes retain acidity.

What is Straw Wine, Exactly?

Anyone looking to satisfy their sweet tooth with a dessert wine may be familiar with late-harvest, botrytis-affected or ice wines. Another category to consider is straw wine, or wines made with grapes dried on straw mats. As the fruit dries, its natural sugar concentrates. Since they're no longer on the vine, the grapes also retain their acidity, so the resulting wines keep their balance as they develop flavor. However, several types of wine are made by this method, and not all of them are sweet—or known as straw wine. Here is a breakdown of the various types of straw-dried wines, as well as what to expect from a true straw wine. What is Straw Wine? To make straw wine, white wine grapes are placed on straw mats for 60 to 90 days. There are records of straw wine made by ancient Greek farmers as well as those in what's now Austria, who coined the term strohwein. It's likely the practice gained popularity because the resulting high levels of sugar made the wine easier to preserve, and also because drinkers from those eras enjoyed the flavor. "Straw wine is made from grapes that are dried off of the vine, as opposed to a late-harvest wine where you leave the grapes to develop on the vine," says Andrea Mullineux, co-owner/winemaker of Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines in the Franschhoek and Swartland regions of South Africa. "When they're cut off the vine, it halts the ripening process, so you're no longer losing acidity as the grapes become sweeter. You're concentrating the sugar, but also concentrating the acidity." The straw allows air to travel around the grapes, which prevents rot. It also keeps the fruit clean if placed in a field or barn, which is how the grapes were traditionally dried. Many wineries now use straw-lined plastic or wood racks that are easier to sanitize. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY "The straw is there to help with ventilation," says Ray Walsh, owner of Capitello Wines in Eugene, Oregon. "If you think of a fruit bowl, moisture gets trapped at the bottom, and that fruit starts to mold first." Today, straw wine is also made in France, Austria, Italy, Greece, South Africa, New Zealand and the U.S. Grapes Used in Straw Wine Producers have flexibility with grapes to use for straw wine. "I chose Sauvignon Blanc to begin with because Sauvignon Blanc already has a nice acidity profile," says Walsh. "That's something that's important with any dessert wine. You've got to have that nice brightness to balance with the sweetness of the wine. I would think any white varietal that has good acidity is going to be good." THE IMPORTANCE OF A WINE'S ACIDITY "We make it only with Chenin Blanc," says Mullineux. "Chenin in South Africa naturally has thicker skin. It tends to be suited to our environment in maintaining the highest natural acidity levels as well." In Austria, it's often made with Muscat and Zweigelt, while in France it can be made from Chardonnay, Savagnin and Poulsard in the Jura, Marsanne in the Northern Rhône and Riesling in Alsace. Flavors of Straw Wine "It's important to taste the sun with straw wine," says Mullineux. Unlike the glacial quality in ice wines, she says, straw wine has a warmer flavor that may be slightly caramelized. It's more likely to resemble orange marmalade than fresh oranges. According to Walsh, straw wine should not have the dried fruit flavors sometimes associated with grapes left on the vine for an extended period. "If you think about a late-harvest Riesling, there are some lovely wines, but I can sometimes detect a raisiny flavor in them," he says. "With straw wine, you get this vibrant concentration of the fruit without that dried prune, dried raisin quality." Straw wine will be notably sweet. Those made at Mullineux & Leeu can range between 280 to 700 grams per liter of residual sugar. But there should be plenty of acid to provide balance. PHOTO COURTESY MULLINEUX & LEEU Straw Wine Versus Other Dessert Wines Unlike botrytis-affected wines, where rot is key, it's essential to have mold- and mildew-free grapes to make straw wine. "One of the keys to straw wine is you're working with healthy grapes to begin with," says Mullineux. "If you have some rot in the vineyard and you lay it down with the grapes, it's going to get worse." Grapes for straw wine are often harvested before those destined for dry wines to preserve their acidity. So, there's no opportunity for them to freeze or raisin. "If done right, you shouldn't get any raisining of the skins, just dehydration of the berries," says Walsh. "True straw wine is about a very, very slow dehydration, so the skins never dry out. They stay moist while the liquid is evaporating from the grapes." One similarity between straw wine and other dessert wines is a higher price point. Walsh says that's because straw wine essentially requires three harvests. "You're harvesting the fruit in the vineyard," he says. "You're then reharvesting by picking it up cluster by cluster to lay it on racks lined with straw. After 90 days, you're then harvesting it again by picking it up and examining it for mold or fruit-fly damage." It's only after this lengthy process that the grapes are vinified. Other Sweet Wines Made on Straw The Greeks may have been among the earliest to dry grapes on straw mats and use them for wine. Today, the most common examples are vin liastos, made in the PDO Monemvassia-Malvaisa, and Vinsanto, produced only in Santorini. Vinsanto can be made from sun-dried or late-harvest grapes, which means that some may not be true straw wines. Vin de paille is the French term from wines made with grapes dried on straw mats. In Jura, it's common to use Savagnin, Chardonnay and Poulsard for this sweet wine. In the Rhône, Marsanne and Roussanne are the main vin de paille grapes. The process used is very similar to that of straw wine. Are Any Dry Wines Made on Straw? Amarone della Valpolicella is an Italian red wine that's made with grapes placed on straw mats or hung in the rafters of barns before vinification. However, Amarone is dry, not sweet. Alessandro Pasqua, vice president Americas and co-owner of Pasqua Vigneti é Cantine in Verona, says the grapes for Amarone are dried on straw for 60 to 90 days to concentrates their flavors. That yields a more flavorful and full-bodied wine than would typically be available from native varieties like Corvina. A long fermentation and aging period ensures most of the sugar is consumed and helps to balanced and integrate the various flavors in the wine. What remains is a rich, dry red wine with red fruit flavors. WHY CALLING A WINE DRY OR SWEET CAN BE SIMPLY CONFUSING "For us and many of my colleagues, the goal with Amarone is to make a serious wine that's comparable with the Napa Cabs or the super Tuscans," says Pasqua. "They want to achieve something similar to what our colleagues in France produce, that balances the sugar and the fruit notes and the body together with a nice acidity and an elegance." Closely related to Amarone della Valpolicella is Recieto della Valpolicella, which also typically features dried Corvina grapes. However, its fruit is dehydrated in a fruttaio, or room designed for the purpose, not on straw. The resulting wine is sweet. Two other sweet Italian wines, Recioto di Soave and Recioto di Gambellara, are also made in fruttaios. Sicily and the surrounding islands also produce wines from sun-dried grapes, like Malvasia delle Lipari, where grapes are dried on reed mats.

Bartender Basics: How to Float or Layer a Cocktail

Floating and layering ingredients in a cocktail may feel like a throwback bartending technique whose time ended with "Rainbow Skittles" shooters. And while this trick may be most popularly employed with college drinks like flaming B-52s, there are some practical applications to layering a cocktail. Beyond the visual effect, layers allow you to create a cocktail that evolves as you drink it. A layered drink can change course over multiple sips, like acts in a play. Other uses include floating a small amount of an ingredient on top of a shaken cocktail to emphasize a specific aroma and create interplay between what you smell and what you taste when you sip. It also lets you set things on fire. The theory Layering drinks is primarily accomplished by adding ingredients in order, based on their specific gravity—heavier ingredients get poured first, lightest ingredients last. Unless you have an encyclopedic knowledge of the chemical makeup of each liquor, liqueur, juice, syrup and tincture in your collection, however, it may be hard to discern the density of each. Enter, this cheat sheet: Ingredients with more sugar will generally be heavier than those without. Syrups, like grenadine, will almost certainly be your heaviest ingredient. Spirits (a.k.a. straight liquor) will generally be the lightest. When it comes to spirits and some liqueurs, the higher the proof, the lighter the ingredient. The greater difference in the weight of each ingredient, the more distinct separation you'll get between each layer. When layering beer for drinks like a Black and Tan, the darker ingredient is usually heavier. Despite seeming denser, as the saying goes, cream often rises to the top. While useful tips, individual ingredients will still vary based on producer, particularly with liqueurs that utilize various amounts of sugar. When in doubt, experiment. Layering vs floating A layered drink means multiple ingredients are added separately, like a Tequila Sunrise (grenadine, orange juice and Tequila). A float generally means a layer of alcohol placed on top of an already-mixed glass of ingredients, as with red wine in a New York Sour. Whichever your drink calls for, the process is the same. Bartender Basics: The Right Way To Shake a Cocktail How to do it Upside-down spoon The most common technique to float or layer an ingredient is to pour it slowly over the back of a spoon. This disperses the liquid over a wider surface area, allowing it to float rather than sink under its own weight. You may be familiar with the iconic "Guinness Spoon," which features an S-shaped bend in the handle that allows it to hook onto the edge of a glass to help pour a perfect amount of head on your pint. (DIY tip: You can create one of these yourself using any spoon and a pair of pliers.) For optimal results, when layering an ingredient by pouring over the back of a spoon, keep the rim of the spoon as close to the surface level of the liquid in the class to ensure the added ingredient has as little distance to fall as possible. Right-side up spoon It can be difficult to pour over the back of a spoon if you're using a tall glass or large spoon. In these cases, try inserting the spoon right-side up into the glass, until you reach the surface level of the ingredients you're floating on top of. The trick is to place the rim of the spoon against the side of the glass, and slowly pour your ingredient into the bowl. Ideally, it should pool in the spoon and run over along the edge of the glass, creating a layer. If some tendrils or seepage between layers occurs, just wait a few moments. They should even out. Fancy bar spoon Finally, if you have a bar spoon with a spiral, flat-back handle (the kind with a silver-dollar sized metal circle on the end, used to press mint and other herbs) you can use it create a bit of visual flair. Place the flat-circle back of the spoon into the glass, until it's just touching the surface of the existing liquid. Take the ingredient you wish to float, and slowly pour it down the length of the bar spoon's handle, allowing it to trickle down the spiral and disperse into a layer at the point of contact. While functionally no different than any of the above methods, it looks pretty cool and is a fun way to show off.

Lush or Lean? Wine Pros on What their Favorite Tasting Terms Really Mean

Fully masked and several feet from guests' tables, Gabriela Davogustto has never been so focused on quickly and clearly communicating a wine's character. "I'm six feet away yelling, 'Fresh berries,' and they're like, 'What??' " says Davogustto, wine director of Clay in New York City. "I try not to get into too much detail. You really have to figure out what people want to know." There's long been a linguistic dance between guests and wine professionals, with each doing their damndest to figure out exactly what the other is really saying. A big part of a sommelier's job is to ask the right questions, interpret a guest's wine knowledge and adapt language accordingly. Most of the time, that means skipping official Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) tasting grid vocabulary in favor of more evocative phrasing. "Everyone's wine language is different," says Tonya Pitts, wine director of San Francisco's One Market Restaurant. "When you come to the table, first you have to listen." But that exchange has gotten a bit more rushed and even "weird," according to Arthur Hon, beverage manager at Momofuku Ko. Measures to curtail potential Covid-19 exposure have led Hon's team to limit the amount of time tableside. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Even before the pandemic, Hon preferred to avoid "useless," subjective tasting notes. "My lemon might be your orange," he says. Like Davogustto, he prefers not to give guests too much information, lest certain words steer them from a wine they might love. Wine drinkers come with baggage, convinced they don't like certain varieties, regions, styles or producers. Many are too embarrassed to ask questions. Instead, they just nod and pretend to understand what terms like "grippy," "nervy" or "tension" mean. "I feel like wine is a misunderstood friend of mine that everyone knows," says Mara Rudzinski, partner at soon-to-open Contento in New York City. "But everyone is always skeptical of who's around them." In an effort to improve communication, 15 wine pros discuss their favorite wine words and what they really mean. ALL THINGS IN BALANCE / ILLUSTRATION BY SUSANNA HARRISON Balanced: Balanced wines are "like a hug," says Davogustto. The fruit, acidity and tannins are harmonious, and no one characteristic "jumps out first." That's opposed to linear or angular wines that attack the palate before their full character is revealed. Bright: Bright generally means "lively and higher in acid," says Rudzinski, which often translates to easy-drinking. Pitts thinks of bright wines like laser beams. "[They're] pure and focused," she says. "You can taste and visualize the wine. You know exactly what's happening on your palate." Pitts points to Dr. Konstantin Frank's Finger Lakes Grüner Veltliner as a good example of a bright wine. Bold: Bold wines are "fruit-forward with structure and backbone," says Brian Grandison, sommelier at The Surf Club in Miami. When Hon thinks of bold wines, Barolo and Brunello come to mind, with their pronounced tannins and darker fruit. Hon says "bold" can translate into higher alcohol content, but it doesn't necessarily mean heavy, a term he has stopped using. Rather than bold, Wanda Mann, founder of Wine With Wanda, prefers to describe these wines as "va va voom." Confident: RdV Vineyards winemaker Joshua Grainer says a confident wine is one "that shows great balance and poise, avoiding extremes of ripeness or manipulation and true to its origin and or variety." To achieve this, it means to increase vine age, better understanding of microclimates and precision in the cellar. In addition to RdV's 2016 Lost Mountain blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Grainer also points to Opus One, particularly the 2014 bottling, as example of a confident wine. Creamy: Creamy wines are all about mouthfeel, says Hon. They often have lower acid, some age and have spent time in wooden barrels and/or on the lees. He thinks of oak-forward wines from the southern Rhȏne, or aged Champagnes with a mouthful of soft bubbles. BARTENDER BASICS: A DRINKER'S GUIDE TO BAR TERMS Nikki Goddard, an Oakland-based wine writer, uses dairy and creamy qualities to help wine lovers understand body. "Light-bodied wines feel like water in your mouth, medium-bodied wines feel like skim milk, full-bodied wines are like whole milk, or even cream, in the case of some dessert wines," she says. Elegant: When Pitts says that a wine is elegant, she means that the fruit tastes cared for, and she can tell a lot of thought went into its production. She finds certain aged, high-elevation wines taste elegant. Davogustto pictures "Grace Kelly in a glass." She points to the medium-light body, crisp acidity and soft tannins that you find in Joan D'Anguera's 2017 Altaroses Garnacha from Montsant. Frenetic: Jeff Segal, owner of Domestique wine shop in Washington, D.C., loves to talk about a wine's energy. He describes some of his favorite natural wines as frenetic. "They're unpredictable, uncontrolled, vibrant and exciting," says Segal. "When a wine is frenetic, it's not a wine that you can pin down with a simple tasting note. It's always shifting and forcing you to reconsider." Fun: If Davogustto senses that a guest is up for an adventure, she'll sell them a "fun" wine. This could mean something from the Canary Islands, a rosé from Virginia or another variety or region guests are less likely to have encountered elsewhere. These wines strike her as fun because "you don't know what you're going to get. They're easy to drink, but they also surprise you." Grippy: When a wine's tannins are "a little pronounced and almost too much," perhaps like a young Bordeaux, it's grippy, says Jeff Harding, wine director at New York City's Waverly Inn. "But just when you think it's too much and too distracting, you're like, 'No, it's just right.' " "AGGRESSIVE," "STRONG" OR JUST "HEADY?" / ILLUSTRATION BY SUSANNA HARRISON Heady: Pitts uses heady instead of "aggressive" or "strong" to describe higher-alcohol wines. She also deploys the term figuratively to talk about cerebral wines in their tasting sweet spot, like a 2000 Château Margaux. Juicy: For Rudzinski, juicy wines, embodied by Beaujolais and its principal grape Gamay, are "bursting with fruit." This often means berries and red stone fruits that are "ripe in the summertime, freshly picked with juice running down your chin." Lean: Just talking about lean wines makes Rebekah Pineda, brand and content manager at Domestique, stand a little straighter. "It's a word that communicates an idea and feeling beyond the literal translation," she says. "Lean whites are steely, like marathon runners, or they're slightly on edge, like a broke college student trying to escape dinner barely spending anything." WHAT ARE THE MOST ASKED QUESTIONS IN A WINE SHOP? While a full-bodied wine tastes rich and lush, lean connotes tightness and focus. "As a minimalist, lean is the highest compliment reserved for old-vine, grey-slate Riesling, or the affordable Pépière Clos de Briords [Muscadet]," says Pineda. Lush: Lush wines have the body and concentrated flavor of a bold wine, but they are "velvety and silky smooth with less tannins," says Grandison. Nervy: Harding says that nervy bottles have what borders on too much acid, but they're "just right and keep grabbing your attention." Goddard prefers to call these high-acid wines, like dry German Riesling, Muscadet, Loire Valley Chenin Blanc and Chablis, "mouth-puckering," instead. PORCH POUNDERS (PORCH OPTIONAL) / ILLUSTRATION BY SUSANNA HARRISON Porch pounder: Porch pounders are "easy and uncomplicated wines that you should chill and drink quickly," says Alexi Cashen, CEO of Elenteny Imports. Pitts refers to these bottles as "patio wine," or wines to drink around the pool. "They remind me of sunshine," she says. Many rosés fit the bill, as do pours of Pinot Grigio. Purity: Tim Elenteny, owner of Elenteny Imports, considers purity a measure of the style in which a wine is made. If a wine is focused and true to variety or regional style, it's a pure expression. PREPARING TO BE PUNCHED IN THE FACE WITH TANNINS / ILLUSTRATION BY SUSANNA HARRISON Punchy: Big, young reds that "punch you in the sides of your face" with tannins are what Jillian Stern, estate ambassador at Napa's White Rock Vineyards, considers punchy wines. Examples might include young Malbecs, Cabernets or Tannats. Rustic: Pitts says rustic wines are everyday drinking reds, best paired with a meal. Wines from Burgundy's Irancy appellation, along with certain Barberas, Syrahs and Grenache from the Côtes du Rhône, are examples. Harding says that rustic wines often have a lingering finish, pleasant but not zippy acidity and, occasionally, some barnyard aromas. Snappy: Hon sells lots of chilled, snappy white wines, which means bottles like Chablis, dry Riesling and Albariño. Elenteny also likes to use snappy for "crisp, clean, dry white wines." Smooth: Stern has dropped smooth from her wine vocabulary. "It's my pet peeve," she says. "All wines should be smooth. That descriptor belongs with hard liquor, not wine." IS IT TIME TO CHANGE HOW WE DESCRIBE WINE? Still, smooth resonates with guests who want a "light- to medium-bodied red with velvety tannins," says Iris Fabre, assistant manager at London's Real Drinks and founder of Wine Minute. Rudzinski points to a French idiom taught to her by the late Jean-Luc Le Dû to describe a good, smooth wine: "le petit Jesus en culotte de velours" (or "baby Jesus in velvet underpants"). Tension: For Grainer, wines with tension display an elegant, ageworthy structure, "achieved when craftsmanship marries seamlessly with the pedigree of the terroir, or the wine's unique sense of place." For Harding, tension lies at the intersection of grippy and nervy, exemplified by wines like Sylvain Pataille's Fleur de Pinot Marsannay Rosé from Burgundy. "It's vibrating with energy, whether from acid or texture or fruitiness and weight, and it's a constant dance of components all perfectly strung together, all competing for your attention," he says. "It's like when a dancer leaps impossibly high, and you think that they're gonna fall, but they land and continue on their way. You just can't take your eyes off."

Great wines to drink with Christmas ham

From a juicy Beaujolais Cru to a bright Australian Shiraz, here is Fiona Beckett's article from the Decanter.com archive on how to handle a Christmas classic, plus recent wine reviews to help you find bottles to try. Fiona BeckettDecember 15, 2020 Top tip: Think about the glaze when pairing wines with ham at Christmas. Credit: Brent Hofacker / Alamy Stock Photo Christmas Food and wine pairing Highlights Wines with ham this Christmas: Styles to look for Reds Beaujolais (Cru) / Gamay Zinfandel Châteauneuf-du-Pape / Grenache, Syrah & Mourvèdre blends Pinotage Shiraz / Syrah Whites Sémillon Viognier Gewürztraminer It's all about the glaze The one thing you can be sure of is that your ham will be sweet. No self-respecting Christmas ham comes without some kind of a glaze and that is the main factor to take into account in any wine pairing. Granted, it makes more of a difference when the ham is served hot than it does once it's cold. Leftovers, particularly combined with turkey will rub along happily with a decent Beaujolais cru or a fresh young village Burgundy, wines that would taste sharp and weedy with the same ham served hot. Many glazes have an orange or marmalade component that tends to work well with bright, fruity reds like Australian Shiraz from Barossa or McLaren Vale, or a GSM blend; Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre. If there's a degree of heat and spice involved, as is the case with glazes or rubs that use mustard, look to the kind of red that can handle spicy food. Zinfandel immediately comes to mind, or a good Pinotage. Both of those wines should also be able to handle the slightly smoky taste you get when a ham is cooked in cola, Nigella-Lawson style - even with the treacle glaze. If your ham coating is slightly less sweet that could bring into play an Amarone, a wine that is too powerful for the turkey I tend to feel. And many people's Christmas favourite, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, can be a winner especially if the ham is served alongside the turkey. A bit of bottle age could be even better, bringing some complexity to the pairing. Jean-Baptiste Lemoine, head sommelier at the Goring in London, told Decanter.com that the softer tannins and more complex flavours of aged Barolo or Bordeaux would also work well with a roast ham. White wines with roast ham Finally, what about a white? It's trickier than a red, I'd say. Again, you want one that can handle the sweetness of the ham. A rich Sémillon, such as one from Australia's Hunter Valley, is the obvious call; think about the classic ham and pineapple combination. Otherwise, look to full-bodied whites such as Viognier, or old vine Chenin Blanc from the Cape in South Africa. As a wild card, a grand cru Gewürztraminer from Alsace could be a great match. See Fiona Beckett's website, MatchingFoodAndWine.com. Wines with Christmas ham: Bottles to look for Wine reviews below added in December 2020. Jean-Marc Burgaud, Cote du Py, Beaujolais, Morgon, 2019 A delicious, mineral Beaujolais that's fleet of foot yet has deep undertones of black cherry, fresh herbs and tomato leaf. Sturdy tannins add weight and body to this wonderfully poised wine. Points92 Famille Perrin, Châteauneuf du Pape, Les Sinards, France 2017 2017 was a ripe and robust vintage in Châteauneuf du Pape - the driest vintage in 30 years - and the Perrin family, owners of Château de Beaucastel, are skilled at getting the best from the year. Les Sinards is made from the young vines at Beaucastel and vines from... Points90 The Lane Vineyard, Gathering Semillon Sauvignon, Adelaide Hills, 2016 This tangy but taut blend skilfully walks a tightrope between tight citrus Sauvignon Blanc fruit and fatter Semillon. There's a lovely iodine-tinged, smoky intensity, a hint of seaweed, and ripe tropical fruit. The 2017 vintage, also available, has more zesty freshness, but get the 2016 while you still can for... Points92 Domaine Olivier Merlin, La Rochelle, Beaujolais Olivier Merlin's tiny La Rochelle's parcel is located above Moulin-á-Vent's eponymous windmill. There's an earthy, graphite edge to the bright cherry, pomegranate and brambly aromas.... Rabbit & Spaghetti, Icon Reserve Shiraz, South Australia 2017 Stylistically this is a big wine but it's made in small steps. Individual parcels of fruit are fermented in small open-topped fermenters. Each is hand-plunged during a cool, long ferment before basket-pressing and aging in French oak, 30% new. It's a bright, inky Shiraz with damson and raspberry jam fruit,... Points90 E Guigal, Blanc, Côtes du Rhône, Rhône, France, 2018 Very rounded and generous for a Côtes du Rhône white, with bags of Viognier character to the fore. Fresh, with real intensity and freshness. Guigal makes 700,000 bottles a year of this cuvée; considering the volume, and low price, the quality is impressive. Points89 Tesco, Finest, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 2016 A blend of old-vine Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre planted on the region's 'galets roulés' - large, smooth pebbles that absorb warmth during the day to keep the vines warm at night. Vinified and aged in concrete tanks, it has a dense but sappy black fruit palate, great acid structure and... Points91 L'Ecole No 41, Old Vines Chenin Blanc, Yakima Valley, Washington State, USA 2018 This winery is was the third founded in the Walla Walla, known for its estate-grown single-vineyard Cabernets. This Chenin, however, is from bought-in fruit from several Yakima Valley vineyards, all more than 40 years old. Expressive aromas of tropical and stone fruit lead to a rich, ripe palate of baked... Points89 Bertani, Amarone della Valpolicella, Valpantena, 2016 An historic estate founded in 1857, Bertani is now one of six Italian domains owned by the Angelini pharmaceutical group. With grapes dried on traditional... Ridge Vineyards, Three Valleys, Sonoma County, California, USA 2018 This hearty red blend, built primarily on Zinfandel (72%), Petite Sirah and Carignan bursts with black cherry, juicy plum and swirls of spicy pepper and a hint of earth. Framed by solid tannins and lively acidity the textured, plush fruit richness carries through the long finish. Points92 Kanonkop, Kadette Pinotage, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2018 From the decomposed granite and Hutton soils of Stellenbosch comes this savoury and deeply hued Pinotage. Stewed plums and blackberries are the primary fruit notes, but more interesting are the tertiary coffee and roasted hazelnut characters which add complexity and body. A blockbuster red. Points90 Domaines Schlumberger, Gewurztraminer Les Princes Abbés, Alsace, France 2017 Domaines Schlumberger has a winemaking history stretching back centuries, and owns significant vineyard holdings across Alsace. The grapes for this gently spicy Gewurz come from Guebwiller's sandstone slopes, 25km south of Colmar, and the wine includes some declassified grand cru fruit. Fresh and exotic, it has a wonderful weight of... Points91 Mullineux, Kloof Street Old Vines Chenin Blanc, 2019 From the dry 2019 vintage this whole-bunch pressed Swartland Chenin was wild fermented before ageing in tank and French oak barrel (15%). It's fresh and long with a citrus tang, ripe tree fruit and marked mineral edge. Spice-flecked finish. Points93 Tyrrell's, Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley, 2009 + Add to My Wines The quintessence of Hunter Valley Semillon: low alcohol, no oak, early bottling - yet a fabulous transformation awaits with bottle age. This has the variety's... The Ojai Vineyard, Roll Ranch Viognier, Santa Barbara County, California, USA 2017 + Add to My Wines The fruit comes from own-rooted vines planted in 1993 in southern California's Upper Ojai Valley. It's picked early which results in a mineral-driven wine with brisk acidity that's not overblown or too tropical. Nectarine, and white peach dominates and there's a slightly medicinal, lanolin note that adds interest and bite. Points91 Ca' La Bionda, Vigneti di Ravazzòl, Amarone della + Add to My Wines Spicy, earthy nose with a hint of sweet liqourice. Figs and molasses, a perfumed finish of loganberries and black pepper. Excellent example of the balanced,...

What Are 'Lees' in Wine?

"Lees are like the drunk uncle at a family gathering," says Toni Boyce, owner of BlaQ & Soul. "It gives a beverage life, but if it overstays its welcome, things could turn left quick." So, what are lees? Where do they come from? As yeast is added to wine, it starts to ferment, converting sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide as it mixes with the grape juice. Eventually, when the yeast has consumed all of the sugar in the wine, it drops to the bottom of the fermentation vessel. That wet, dense pile of residual mass is what's called the gross lees. It's a mix of dead yeast, grape skins, seeds stems and tartrates, which is then racked off and discarded. Another type of lees, known as fine lees, are mostly made of dead yeast cells that gradually settle on the bottom of a fermentation vessel. They have a silkier consistency than gross lees, and are both a byproduct of winemaking and an ingredient in its aging process. If wine ages in contact with its fine lees for a considerable time, it develops pronounced round, full, creamy flavors that may present as nutty or yeasty, like warm brioche, in the finished wine. The French call this process sur lie, which translates to "on the lees." Tara Gomez, winemaker for Kitá Wines, says that aging a wine on its lees adds "texture, depth, complexity and flavor to the wine." Winemakers around the globe agree. Lees aging is common with Chablis, Champagne, Muscadet and California Chardonnay. Some wines have less of those warm, savory flavors, while others wines explode with rich, bready notes due to bâtonnage, a process where the lees are stirred as the wine ages. What Does 'Extraction' Mean in Wine? The longer wine ages on its lees, the more body and dimensions it develops. Champagne is aged at least 12 months on lees for nonvintage bottles, and a minimum of 36 months for vintage cuvées. Those long aging times produce the fuller mouth flavors with every sparkly sip. Lees left over from fermentation have many uses. Marmite, a UK staple, is cultivated from beer yeast. In the Fujian province of China, a traditional braised chicken dish uses red wine lees that add punchy umami notes. Sakekasu, or saké lees, are used in Japan for pickling, marinades and even cosmetic products.

What Does 'Minerality' Mean in Wine?

"Minerality is difficult to fully explain," says Evan Goldstein, MS, president and chief education officer of Full Circle Wine Solutions. "There is no accepted definition of minerality in wine, no complete consensus on the characteristics that are associated with it, nor even whether it is perceived primarily as a smell, a taste or a mouthfeel sensation." Jancis Robinson, MW, calls the term "imprecise" and an "elusive wine characteristic" in The Oxford Companion to Wine. Words that are most associated with minerality are earthy terms like gunflint, wet stone, chalk and asphalt. Minerality is different than organic earthiness, says Goldstein, which he believes connotes something more alive and "filled with microfauna" like compost, potting soil, freshly turned earth or forest floor. So, what is minerality, and how does it get inside a wine? "That is the million-dollar question," says Goldstein. If You Want 'Authentic' Wine, You Need to Understand Terroir "We can really go through a rabbit hole here very quickly," says Federico Casassa, associate professor of enology at California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo. "Linking minerality in wine is sexy and is a great sales pitch ... However, to date, there is no clear scientific evidence connecting a specific terroir with the term. But we have some clues." Minerality is often associated with cool climates and stony terroirs. Casassa gives the classic example of Chablis, whose minerality is attributed to Kimmeridgian soils filled with marine sediment. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY "As it turns out, research has shown that, yes, there is some perceived minerality in Chablis wines," he says. "But this is more related to methanethiol, a volatile sulfur compound that kind of smells like shellfish." Similarly, wines from Spain's Priorat appellation show minerality associated with the llicorella soils, lid to residual levels of malic acid. "This begs the question: Would blocking malolactic fermentation result in more 'mineral wines'?" asks Casassa. "Would having a comparatively low pH work in the same direction?" Quite possibly, he says. "A case could be made that soil composition can impact fermentation, which, in turn, can impact the production of volatile sulfur," says Casassa. "Another case can be made that soil pH and composition would impact juice/must and wine pH." What Does 'Dry Red Wine' Mean? People may use "stony mineral" descriptors to describe aromas and flavors, but it also relates to a wine's texture. "A second important category is palate sensations, related to acidity and freshness, but also to gritty or chalky," says Goldstein. This is most commonly related to the structure of a wine's tannins: astringent, grippy, fine-grained or coarse. "In red wines, [minerality] is also found in cool climates," says Dr. Laura Catena, founder of the Catena Institute of Wine, and also managing director of Bodega Catena Zapata in Mendoza, Argentina. "We find it in extreme high-altitude Malbec from our Adrianna Vineyard at 5,000 feet [of] elevation, but not in the lower altitudes, where it's warmer." She says the same tends to be true of high-altitude Pinot Noir. "The aromas are a bit like flint, gunpowder or chalk," says Catena. "On the palate, one immediately feels the acidity, and there's a drying grip on the tongue, followed by the burning desire to eat something fatty." She's convinced that soil has an impact, possibly related to microbes and yeasts that vary according to altitude and soil type. "But [our researchers] are still in the process of studying this," she says. Regions associated with producing minerally wines include Champagne, Etna, Campania, Swartland and Priorat, among others. However you describe minerality, "it is beloved," says Goldstein. "For better, for worse, it's considered a sign of pedigree, when in reality, it's just...there."

What does Sancerre wine taste of? Ask Decanter

Sancerre is today a Sauvignon Blanc stronghold in France's Loire Valley, known for delicious dry white wines that can marry citrus, green fruit and grassy flavours with beautiful texture and refreshing acidity. Ellie DouglasMarch 25, 2021 Sancerre vineyards above Chavignol. Credit: robertharding / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Sancerre wine is best known today for its top-drawer Sauvignon Blanc, although this Loire Valley appellation also allows reds and rosés made from Pinot Noir. Where does Sancerre wine come from? Sancerre lies on the left bank of the Loire river and sits opposite another famed Sauvignon Blanc appellation, Pouilly-Fumé. It's a relatively cool and continental climate. Sauvignon Blanc prefers cooler, temperate weather on the whole, and these conditions in the Loire Valley help to preserve the variety's natural acidity. 'There are three different types of soil in the Sancerre region - caillottes (pure limestone), terres blanches (clay limestone) and silex (flint),' wrote Jim Budd, regional chair for the Loire at the Decanter World Wine Awards, in a previous Decanter article. 'The caillottes and terres blanches each account for 40%.' Sancerre wine flavours Look out for citrus, elderflower, grassy aromas and some gooseberry notes in your Sancerre dry white wine, depending on the producer and specific bottle. Many wines show a lovely mineral character and the best examples are known for delicious, multi-layered texture on the palate. According to Decanter's Tasting Notes Decoded, 'Flint, flinty or even gunflint are terms used to describe the minerality note that is found in dry, austere white wines, notably Chablis and Sancerre.' Although Chablis is made from Chardonnay in Burgundy, this mineral character is found in both wines. Andrew Jefford has previously called Sancerre and Chablis 'climate-and-soil twins, which just happen to find themselves growing different grape varieties'. Sancerre vs New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: What's the difference? There are great wines in both camps, and it's very hard to generalise in the wine world. Yet Sauvignon Blanc is an aromatic grape variety and classic varietal wines from Marlborough in New Zealand might deliver more pronounced aromas in your glass - perhaps with more gooseberry or passion fruit notes coming to the fore. Rebecca Gibb MW wrote in this article for Decanter in 2020, 'Instead of the flamboyant aromatics you'd find in a stereotypical Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, for example, white Sancerre focuses on structure and texture derived from its origins.' Jim Budd wrote in this Decanter article about how Sancerre styles vary depending on vineyard site, referring to the soil types cited above. You can find more examples of Loire Sauvignon Blanc wines in this panel tasting from 2020. Can Sancerre wine age? Many of the wines are ready to be opened while still young, but there are also ageworthy examples. 'You can enjoy Sancerre when it's young and fresh, but if you buy a top Sancerre you will get additional complexity with 10 or 15 years in the cellar that you couldn't find in other Sauvignon Blancs,' said Budd following a Decanter panel tasting in 2016. What food goes well with Sancerre wine? A classic match with Sancerre white wine would be goat's cheese. This could be one to try on a spring picnic in 2021, yet the late, great sommelier Gérard Basset OBE MW MS once told Decanter that it's better to steer clear of more mature goat's cheeses, because the strong flavour could be an issue. Seafood would be another food pairing avenue to explore with Sancerre. A note on Sancerre red wines Sancerre chiefly produced red wine from Pinot Noir and Gamay until the arrival of phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century. Today in the Sancerre appellation Sauvignon Blanc now accounts for approximately 80% of production, with Pinot Noir just 20%. Yet red wines - and rosés - from the Sancerre AOP are well worth seeking out. For example, Decanter contributor Yohan Castaing recently tasted this 'entry level' Sancerre Pinot Noir from Vincent Pinard, praising its 'fresh and lively nose with griottes, flowers, and blackcurrant aromas'.

All About White Wine: What to Know and What to Drink

An essential introduction to the major grape varieties and winemaking styles. Written by Vicki Denig Updated 09/17/20 Pin Share Email Image: Getty Images / EAQ Whether pairing with foods or sipping solo, there's really not a time or a place where a crisp glass of white doesn't fit the bill. However, not all white wines are created equal. Knowing the difference between major grape varieties and winemaking styles is key to finding that perfect pour for every occasion. How It's Made White wine is produced all over the world from an array of grape varieties and regions. Most white wines are produced from direct-pressed juice from white grapes, meaning that grapes are harvested and brought back to the winery, and their juice is immediately pressed out of them (meaning it has little to no "skin contact"). The ways in which this juice is vinified post-pressing varies from winemaker to winemaker, but that's what makes the world of white wine so exciting. Post-pressing, the juice is fermented with either naturally occurring (spontaneous/native) or cultivated yeasts in a variety of vessels. Steel, oak and cement are the most common vessels for vinification and aging. The Effects of Steel, Oak and Cement Many white wines are vinified entirely in steel, because this material keeps oxygen out of the vessel and preserves natural acidity in the juice. (In wine, acidity is a good and desirable thing.) At the other end of the spectrum, vinification and aging in an oak barrel allows a very small amount of oxygen to come in contact with the juice. This adds a variety of textures as well as layered flavors to a given wine. Cement aging is somewhat of a hybrid of the two, in that cement provides an oxidative environment without imparting oak-driven flavors to the wine. Defining Oakiness When fermented and/or aged in oak, white wines tend to take on notes of vanilla, baking spice, cinnamon, clove, coconut and other flavors. Although these flavors tend to give the sensation of being warm and soft on the palate, they are not technically "sweet," as oak vinification does not add any residual sugar to the vinification process. (And forget the bad things you've heard about "oaky" wines. Although over-oaked juice certainly can be unpleasant, white wines with well-integrated oak can provide some of the most delicious drinking experiences you'll ever have.) Foods for Pairing Food pairings often depend on the wine's acidity and structure. For light-bodied wines that are crisp, refreshing and high in acid, we recommend serving up some equally fresh salads or salty raw bar snacks. White wines with a bit more body and structure can handle slightly heavier cuisines (think roasted poultry, grilled fish and pungent cheeses). White wines with a bit of residual sugar are perfect for pairing with dishes that pack a bit of heat, such as spicy Indian or Thai. Getty Images / F.J. Jimenez The Most Common White Grape Varieties Chardonnay: Chardonnay is the grape that can do it all. It's planted in just about every wine-producing region around the world, since its ability to thrive in an array of climates and soil types is practically endless. Because of its malleable nature, chardonnay is vinified in a variety of styles (usually medium- to full-bodied) and in an array of vessels. For a balanced and straightforward expression, check out the below expression from Sandhi. The wine is produced in Santa Barbara and beautifully meshes an Old World mentality with New World fruit. Early picking and meticulous oak integration lead to the best of both worlds.Try: Sandhi ($23) Sauvignon blanc: Like chardonnay, sauvignon blanc is grown in a variety of soils and regions around the globe. In warm and sunny New World regions (think Marlborough, New Zealand and California's Napa Valley), sauvignon-blanc-based wines tend to show flavors of tropical fruit, citrus and grass. In Old World regions like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, these wines tend to show more earthy rock-driven flavors marked by citrus-like acidity.Try: François Chidaine ($17) (France), Lieu Dit ($23) (California) Pinot grigio: Pinot grigio (called pinot gris in Francophone growing regions) has long been associated with cheap mass-produced whites from Italy. Although these wines unfortunately do still exist, high-quality pinot grigio from a reputable producer can be a revelatory experience. When produced at the right hands, pinot grigio is usually copper-hued, floral-driven and super easy to drink. Try this bottle from Alto Adige for a delicious example.Try: Alois Lageder ($14) Riesling: If there's one thing you learn from this white wine primer, let it be this: Not all riesling is sweet. When vinified dry, riesling produces some of the most high-acid and thirst-quenching white wines on the market. For a delicious bone-dry expression, check out Empire Estate. For an off-dry wine that's perfect for pairing with spicy takeout, Peter Lauer's Barrel X is the way to go.Try: Empire Estate ($17), Peter Lauer Barrel X ($21) Chenin blanc: Never heard of chenin blanc? There's no better time than the present. This high-acid grape is best known for its French (Loire Valley) and South African expressions, though the grape is cultivated in the United States, Australia and beyond. These wines are beloved for their ripe and medium- to full-bodied flavor profiles, though in well-made expressions, the grape's high amount of natural acidity keeps them in check. Think of them as adult apple juice, only better.Try: Badenhorst Secateurs ($16)

Trek and Taste: Five National Parks Near Wine Country

In an era of shrinking wilderness, it seems downright visionary that early U.S. presidents put pen to paper to protect diverse ecosystems for the public good. Abraham Lincoln signed the Yosemite Valley Grant Act in 1864. Ulysses S. Grant created Yellowstone National Park in 1872. And, at the turn of the 20th century, Theodore Roosevelt earned the moniker "The Conservation President" for his slew of protections. Some of today's most interesting and least-congested parks border wine country. And there's no better way to see America than through its forests, dunes and mountains than with a glass of local wine. Before you visit a park, check the National Parks Service website for Covid-19 modifications and closures. HOW TO CAMP THROUGH WINE COUNTRY White Sands National Park New Mexico Prefer a less crowded park experience? While four million people trek to Yosemite each year, White Sands National Park receives just 600,000 visitors across 275 square miles of desert. As its name implies, the park's gypsum sand shimmers enough to mimic snowy dunes. Bright and dry days help vines flourish in nearby Mesilla Valley, New Mexico's smallest American Viticultural Area (AVA). Straddling the Rio Grande River, the climate supports the production of rich reds from varieties like Zinfandel, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, plus a bit of Tempranillo. The town of Las Cruces serves as a jumping-off point to explore local wineries like Lescombes Winery, Rio Grande Winery, La Viña Winery and Luna Rossa Winery. Shenandoah National Park Virginia BARBOURSVILLE VINEYARDS, VIRGINIA / COURTESY OF BARBOURSVILLE Shenandoah, which teems with vistas, wildlife and waterfalls, attracts around 1.5 million visitors per year. About 75 miles from Washington D.C., the centerpiece of the 200,000-acre park is the 105-mile Skyline Drive that features dramatic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains around every turn. Well-marked trails offer hikes through woodland valleys and across streams. History buffs might want to stop at nearby Manassas National Battlefield Park, site of a devastating 1861 Civil War clash. At the southern end of the park lies Charlottesville, in Albemarle County, the pastoral area that Thomas Jefferson called home. Though he failed to make fine wine, wineries like King Family Vineyards, Stinson Vineyards, Barboursville and Veritas produce Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Viognier and red blends in the Monticello AVA. At the northern end of the park, RdV Vineyards sets a benchmark for Virginia wine with its Cabernet blend, allocated only to members of its reserve list. FROM NEW YORK TO VIRGINIA, FOUR CAB FRANC PRODUCERS YOU SHOULD KNOW Pinnacles National Park California WRATH WINES, SAN SABA VINEYARD / COURTESY WRATH WINES As throngs fight for reservations to Yosemite, in-the-know travelers go to Pinnacles National Park. Not only does it serve around 200,000 visitors a year, Pinnacles neighbors the beautiful coastal town of Carmel-by-the-Sea and Central Coast wine regions in Monterey County. Much like the ancient soils that nurture nearby Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines, the park's landscape was born of geological upheaval. More than 23 million years ago, volcanos and shifting tectonic plates created the unique Talus caves and rock formations, or pinnacles. Hikers and cavers test their athleticism and nerve on challenging terrain, though there are also easier hikes for the less ambitious. All highlight diverse wildlife, from hummingbirds and condors to salamanders and mountain lions. Wine lovers can tackle the 5.3-mile hike from Condor Gulch to High Peaks in the morning, followed by lunchtime sips in the Santa Lucia Highlands. There's a clutch of wineries along River Road, with Hahn Family Wines near the south, and Wrath Wines further north. Grand Canyon National Park Arizona GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK / PHOTO BY MICHAEL DEYOUNG VIA GETTY Grand Canyon National Park is a showstopper of the American Southwest. With upwards of six million visitors each year, reservations for the vast gorge's lodges and cabins are booked up to a year in advance. However, a photo of the winding Colorado River from the South Rim is far easier to land. Lookout points at Navajo Point and Desert View Drive swell with crowds, but for good reason. The two-billion-year-old layered red sedimentary rock is peppered with pines, spruces and firs. It's peerless in its beauty. Two hours south, near Sedona, another hiking haven amidst sublime scenery, sits Verde Valley. Winemaking dates to the 1800s, but the modern industry was resurrected in the 1980s. Local vintners have proposed a 200-square-mile AVA. Vineyards offer mostly red grapes like Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Zinfandel and Mourvèdre. Taste along the Verde Valley trail or at the numerous tasting rooms in Cottonwood and Jerome. Maynard James Keenan, lead singer of Tool, and Eric Glomski are key players. Maynard owns Caduceus Cellars and Merkin Vineyards, and Glomski founded Page Springs Cellars. THE BEST GEAR FOR DRINKING IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park Colorado GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK / GETTY A terrestrial version of the ocean's deepest trenches, Black Canyon of the Gunnison earned its name because sunlight reaches the gorge's deepest fathom for just a few minutes each day. The park welcomes around 400,000 people every year. Climbers and hikers in search of steep terrain and scenic payoffs head to Devils Lookout and Pulpit Rock Overlook or the Inner Canyon. Trails for all abilities line the South and North rims, and easier paths like Cedar Point Nature Trail still offer stunning views of the 2,000-foot drop. West Elks, named for the mountains seen beyond the park, is the closest wine region and Colorado's second AVA. A bit further sits the state's inaugural AVA, Grand Valley, near the town of Palisade. Elevation plays an important role, as some vineyards start at 4,500 feet above sea level and go as high as 7,000 feet. In Grand Valley, hit Colorado Cellars, the area's oldest and largest winery, as well as Two Rivers Winery, Varaison Vineyards and Red Fox Cellars, all which offer a range of red and white wines like Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and Nebbiolo.

How Long Should I Let My Wine Breathe?

It's Friday, the end of a long week. You've decided to open a bottle to celebrate. Perhaps it's an older Bordeaux, or a young, vibrant Austrian Grüner Veltliner. You pour a splash in the glass and give it a sniff. A wave of disappointment crashes down around you as the wine smells like burnt matches and rotten eggs. Fear not. A little aeration may be all you need. First, let's get this out of the way. Not all wine needs to be decanted. Decanting is necessary mostly for younger red wines that need maximum aeration, or for older wines to help remove sediment. However, just about every wine will improve with some aeration, whether in a decanter or through a quick swirl in the glass. So how much time does a wine need to breathe? And how long should you swirl before your wrist feels like it's going to fall off? The answer is...it depends. AERATOR VS DECANTER: WHICH IS BETTER? If you have a young, opulent and highly tannic Rhône red, it may need to decant at least an hour to soften tannins and round out any hard edges. This applies to most wines with similar structure and concentration. But, for an easy-drinking New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, something that is fresh, zippy and full of aromatic citrus fruit, an hour of breathing may dull the qualities that give the wine its character. However, a few swirls and a bit of time to breathe in the glass will usually help reductive or sulfur-related aromas blow off the wine. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Here are a few tips to help decide how long a wine should breathe so each pour will shine. Even at home, pour a sample before a full glass Just like a sommelier at a restaurant, pour a small sample to test the nose and palate before you commit to a full glass. Some wines may have some reductive or sulfur notes, which come across most notably as aromas of rubber, burnt matches or rotten eggs. Often, these aromas will dissipate after 10-15 minutes. You may opt for a decanter, but it could be simpler to pour a small glass and swirl away to see if those odors fade. GETTY Young, tannic reds need oxygen to soften tannins Whether it's a young Napa Cab, an Argentine Malbec or Aussie Shiraz, these wines typically need a dose of oxygen to smooth out any roughness and soften tannins. Of course, if you enjoy the punch that these wines can pack straight out of the bottle, there's no need to delay. Allowing them to breathe too long can overly soften their opulent nature. Still, most young, tannic reds can benefit from some aggressive swirling and 10-20 minutes in the glass. This will help open up big, brooding wines and allow for overpowering oaky notes to fully integrate with the fruit and often high alcohol levels. GETTY Older vintage wines may be ready right out of the bottle There's a common misconception that older wines all require several hours of decanting. The truth is, even several minutes in a decanter may overly oxidize an older, delicate wine. It can obliterate the drinking window to just a few short seconds. Yet, there are longer-aged wines, usually those that started with high levels of tannins, alcohol content and fruit concentration, that will benefit from several minutes in the glass to open completely. These could also potentially benefit from decanting. WHAT ARE TANNINS, REALLY? The rule of thumb for older wines is that the lighter and older a wine, the less aeration it will need. When in doubt, pour a small sample into a glass and examine it. Red wines tend to lose color with age, meaning the lighter in color the wine appears, the less aeration it will likely need. An inky, bright ruby, opaque older wine will require more oxygenation. The opposite is true for white wines, which gain color as they age. GETTY White and sparkling wines do not typically need aeration That's not to say all whites and sparkling wines can't benefit from a bit of oxygen. If any reductive notes are detected in a white wine, by all means give it some air and possibly 10-15 minutes in a decanter. The same is true for those rich, deep gold whites that may need a little bit of room to stretch their legs. But the vast majority of these wines come out of the bottle ready to rock. If you pour a sample and the wine is slightly muted or not as aromatic as expected, add a bit more to your glass and swirl away. The problem will usually solve itself. Enjoy the process One of the best parts about tasting wine is to see how it develops from the time it's opened until the last sip. Nothing is more rewarding than when the final taste from a highly anticipated wine is the best of the bottle. It allows you to fully appreciate the journey that it took to get there. So, while aerating and decanting some wines will certainly help bring them to their ideal drinking window, to taste the natural evolution of the wine after it's opened is its own great pleasure.

How long does wine last after opening? - Ask Decanter

Here are the things to consider when weighing up how long your bottle of wine will last after you've opened it, particularly if it's in the kitchen fridge. Chris MercerMarch 26, 2021 A wine fridge could help keep your bottles at a consistent temperature. Credit: : Евгений Вершинин / Alamy Stock Photo Affiliate Ask Decanter Highlights How long can an open bottle last in the fridge? If you're wondering how long wine can last after opening, a bottle of white or rosé wine should be able to keep going for at least two to three days in the fridge, if using a cork stopper. But it varies depending on the style involved. Some wine styles may last for up to five days after opening. Sparkling wines, such as Prosecco or Champagne, can stay fresh and will keep some fizz for a similar amount of time, but need to be properly sealed - ideally with a specific Champagne bottle stopper. Champagne expert Tyson Stelzer said that many people would be surprised that an open bottle will 'still keep some fizz in the fridge for some days'. The most reliable way of keeping them fresh is 'to use a Champagne stopper that provides a tight seal, and to keep the bottle as cold as possible'. So don't listen to fables about spoons in the Champagne bottle-neck. Le Creuset Champagne stopper£16.50 Now £15 on Amazon UK VIEW DEAL How long does red wine last after opening? While some lighter styles of red wine can be chilled, it's generally better to keep full-bodied reds out of the kitchen fridge once opened. Colder temperatures may make a heavy red wine taste unbalanced by bringing tannin and oak to the fore. Ignore this if you have a temperature-controlled wine fridge, of course. Red wines can generally last three to five days if stored with a stopper in a cool, dark place, said UK retailer Laithwaites after publishing a study in 2017 on the amount of wine people throw away. Does fortified wine last for longer after opening? Some fortified wines are built to last and can be kept in the kitchen fridge for up to several weeks once opened. 'I nearly always have a bottle of tawny on the go in the fridge,' said Decanter Port expert Richard Mayson in 2016. In her recent feature on serving and preserving sweet and fortified wines, Anne Krebiehl MW said ruby and reserve will last a few weeks and Tawny could have up to six weeks in the fridge. The only one to not keep hanging around is vintage Port, which should be drunk up in a few days. Sweet wines will also last well when refrigerated, said Krebiehl. 'These wines are resilient,' Aline Baly, co-owner of Château Coutet in Barsac, previously told Decanter. 'That you can keep a bottle open for more than a week is a fact unknown to many.' It's worth bearing in mind that there are also a diverse range of gadgets claiming to make your wine last longer, although we haven't tested them for this article. Would you know if a wine has gone off? In particular, look out for the wine becoming oxidised. Have the fruit aromas and flavours become dulled, or has the colour dimmed or gained a brown-edged tinge? The colour gauge works less well on a Tawny Port, because the wine has already been subjected to controlled oxidation to a greater extent. Also, look out for vinegary notes, which may be the result of bacteria causing a build-up of acetic acid. See this guide to common wine flaws and faults for more information. One of the advantages of bag-in-box wine is that it tends to last longer than an opened bottle. What about keeping an unopened wine in the fridge? How sure are you about the plan to drink this particular bottle? We have some helpful tips on chilling wine in a hurry. Louis Roederer's chef de cave and executive vice-president, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, told guests at a Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in 2014 that one should 'put Champagne in the fridge 48 hours before drinking it', if possible. However, remember that wine generally doesn't enjoy big temperature fluctuations; unlike vineyard managers, who often speak about the importance of diurnal range during the growing season. This is one of the reasons why it's generally recommended not to store wine in the kitchen or near radiators. Paolo Basso, named the world's best sommelier in 2013, says that age is an important consideration . 'Like any food product, exposure to cold will slow or stop the ripening process,' he said in Decanter magazine in 2016. 'If you do this only once to a young and robust wine, it will generally resume its ageing process without consequence after a period in the fridge. 'But a more mature wine, which is less resistant to shock, may suffer. Wine is like us; in youth, we will recover more easily after an accident but when we are older, recovery will be more difficult.' Wine corks can also harden if a bottle is in the fridge for too long, which may allow air through and give you oxidation problems. Do you have a 'wine fridge'? This doesn't mean throwing out the vegetables and packing your 'normal' fridge with bottles. A temperature-controlled wine fridge will naturally give you an advantage by helping you to maintain constant, ideal conditions for storage more easily. 'Some wine fridges offer multi-zone temperature control as well as humidity control, allowing wines to be chilled ready to serve while other wines are maturing at 'cellar' temperature,' said Decanter's James Button.

Insignia 2017 Napa Valley Red, Joseph Phelps

Quick Taste Iconic Napa Valley Wine 96 Points Across the Board! "just a gorgeous wine that will evolve for 30 years or more" About Insignia 2017 Napa Valley Red, Joseph Phelps This flagship wine from Joseph Phelps is always one of Napa Valley's very best Cabernet blends, consistent vintage after vintage. This 2017 is their latest release and once again it's outstanding.The Wine Advocate scored this 96 points saying "The 2017 Insignia is a blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc coming from: 46% Las Rocas vineyard (Stags Leap District), 22% Barboza vineyard (Stags Leap District), 13% Suscol vineyard (South Napa Valley), 10% Yountville vineyard (Oak Knoll District) and 9% Home Ranch (St. Helena). It was aged for 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Deep garnet-purple colored, it comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant scents of Black Forest cake, preserved plums and blueberry pie plus touches of redcurrant jelly, potpourri, clove oil and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has gained weight from it's in-barrel offering, boasting rich, decadently perfumed black fruit preserves flavors with a racy backbone and velvety tannins, finishing long and spicy."Decanter Magazine scored this 96 points saying "This has a real sense of freshness and grip. A pure expression of Cabernet with a shot of eucalyptus and menthol, extremely concentrated but with elegance and power. The tannins just grip on to your palate and don't let go leading to a lovely chewy finish. This is great stuff, with a discernibly finessed style that shows a fine tannic balance magnified through the lens of Californian heat and laced through with cassis, espresso and chocolate block. Great structure, this will take a few decades of ageing in its stride. 100% new oak, from five vineyards around Napa Valley, mainly in Stags Leap and Oak Knoll."James Suckling scored this 96 points saying "A beautiful, focused wine with a tight center palate of blackberries, blueberries and dark chocolate. Very subtle. Hints of mint and sage, too. Medium to full body and fine, racy tannins. A reserved and very pretty Insignia. Fresh finish. Hard not to drink now, but better in 2022."Jeb Dunnuck scored this 96 points saying "Tasted out of bottle, the 2017 Insignia is beautiful stuff that excels in the vintage. Revealing a dense purple color as well as stunning notes of crème de cassis, lead pencil shavings, tobacco, and earth, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a silky, seamless texture, building tannins, and a great finish. It has the more linear, elegant style of the vintage, yet it's balanced, has ample concentration, and is just a gorgeous wine that will evolve for 30 years or more." Wine Details Alcohol % 14.5% Bottle Size 750 ml Wine Type Red Country United States Region California Appellation Napa

A Beginner's Guide to Working the Wine Harvest

And 10 lessons learned along the way. Written by Mark C. Anderson Published 01/13/21 Pin Share Email Image: Mark C. Anderson An old buddy and I have attempted our share of wine quests together. There was the time we retraced the movie "Sideways" in California's Santa Ynez Valley, minus the spit-bucket guzzle. There was the week we traversed Ribera and Rueda wine country with a band of wine buyers on the invitation of the Spanish government. There was the spring we rambled from Mumbai to Nashik scouting the Indian subcontinent's booming wine industry, including an obligatory Indian wedding crash. So when he suggested a new one, I was all ears. The plan: Contact the same wine pro who helped arrange our Nashik trip, Shardul Ghogale, a University of Bordeaux alum. He directs sales for the award-winning Left Coast Estate in Oregon. Perhaps the winery could use help with its harvest, we figured. If it did, we'd get to do something we'd never done. The chance to see the increasingly celebrated Willamette Valley was a bonus. The pay would be minimal, but there would be room, board, a lot of overtime and few expenses besides waterproof work boots. I checked in with Left Coast's winemaker, Joe Wright. His priority seemed to be confirming we were ready for long damp days and short sleep intervals. "I just need warm bodies," he told us. I relayed the update. "Oh, man," said my buddy, who's more gourmand than grunt. He withdrew immediately. I was still in, and a few weeks later, my first day of harvest school was in session. These are 10 lessons I took away from the succeeding month. 1. Expectations Are Futile Our first work day on the crush pad would be a short one, we were informed—more orientation than oomph. Then the tractors started coming and kept coming, all morning, from 7:45 a.m. on, ultimately dropping off something like 48 bins of grapes. By the time we were done scooping, weighing, sorting, pressing, shoveling, cleaning, pumping, pressing and cleaning again, it was approaching midnight. The next day, we were prepped for a long haul but were home midafternoon. Fellow intern Mike Duffy and I made a pact: Skip the expectations and spend our energy staying present and ready for anything. "You don't plan; you go until it's over," Ghogale told me later. "You just never know how the harvest season is going to go," added team veteran Lisa Fahrner. There's one thing that can be counted on, however: Something will go wrong, so how you respond matters most. For 2020 (and very likely going forward in many wine regions), the big something was wildfire. When I drove north to Left Coast, it was framed by no fewer than four raging blazes that made the local air quality the worst in the world. Wright didn't flinch and instead directed more pinot noir grapes to the soaring stainless-steel tanks that ferment white pinot noir. Without the skins, his pioneering take on the fickle grape picks up neither its red hue nor any potential smoke taint. Already an international bestseller, Left Coast's flagship wine production leapt to 11,000 cases produced in 2020, more than that of any other winemaker. 2. Yes, Wine Is Work To me, the hustle of the harvest sounded like a feature, not a flaw. A few days in, my body begged to differ. My fingers didn't close like they used to. My thighs were going purple polka dot after I learned from the field team how to hike a 100-pound "macro" bin from my thighs to the waiting tractor trailer. My hand was seeping blood beneath a bandage and a latex glove after I smashed it into the hard steel of the wine press hustling to squoosh the 10th of 12 big bins' worth of pinot noir—about 10,000 pounds of grapes, the weight of an African bush elephant—through the small top opening of the wine press over the course of 45 minutes. After week one, I asked Duffy what part of his body he'd regenerate. "My muscles," he replied. From Grape to Glass, This Is How Wine Is MadeRELATED ARTICLE 3. Harvest Speaks Its Own Language Brix and bungs, snow cones and sock filters, pump-overs and punch-downs, racking and riddling, digging out a fermenter and walking out a line—the words some use to describe their wines are famously flabby, but production doesn't play that verbal game. The terminology of the harvest stays lean. Brix, by the way, denotes sugar content (in liquid) and bungs are big barrel corks. Snow cones are conical spouts for spraying super-cold CO2 gas, and sock filters prevent skins from clogging up the works. The most fun terms, though, are the action words. Digging out a fermenter involves getting barefoot, jumping in a giant barrel and scooping out skins with shovels and buckets. Walking out a line means draining, step by step, serpentine tubes that connect presses, fermenters and barrels. Pumping-over describes the process of circulating red wine from the bottom of a barrel to the top to release carbon dioxide. "Some terms may not make sense to [outsiders]," said assistant winemaker Mark Rutherford. "Some are stupid things we've evolved over the years." 4. Harvest Can Be a Contact Sport Late one night, Duffy and I stood high atop a plank balanced on open-top ferment barrels the size of a Shrek hot tub, using stainless steel mashers to break up the thick layer of skins that has formed over the fermenting grapes. The punch-down process is a good workout. We were starting to sweat. I paused and stepped from the plank to the brim of the barrel to get a better angle. In doing so, I unsteadied the plank enough that Duffy's next lunge with his steel wand sent the board shooting from beneath his feet like a skateboard stunt gone wrong, pitching him into the pit of grapes and the hard wooden side of the wine vat. Punch-downs extract more color, aroma, tannins and flavor from the skins. Duffy's punch-down would extract a kaleidoscope of color from his hip bruise, from syrah purple to chardonnay gold. But he found his composure quickly and got back to work. At that night's debrief, the vets trotted out their tales of misadventures. I felt grateful to hear them and proud of Duffy's bounce back: What might have felt like a misstep seemed more a rite of passage. Wright was more measured when we discussed it later. He wants to aim higher, to eliminate the outdated assumption that harvests must push workers to a state of physical and mental exhaustion that can cause accidents. "It's just not worth it," he said. 5. Clean Is Compulsory Our intern chief and cellar master, Alex Lindblom, liked to joke saying "no skins left behind," but he wasn't entirely kidding. The team spent an unofficial 4 million harvest hours spray-hosing the crush pad (and the rest of the 12,033 square foot winery) to make sure it remained spotless, even if we were about to muck it back up in an hour. "If it means 30 more minutes of cleaning at night that'll set up a morning where you can focus on what's ahead, you'll be in a much better mindset," said Lindblom. "A clean workspace leads to a clean wine." How the Pandemic Is Affecting the 2020 Wine VintageRELATED ARTICLE 6. Farmworkers Are Essential to Success One morning, our harvest crew was sent into the vines to help the field team snip clusters of pinot, filling buckets that would fill bins that would fill the presses that would fill barrels. Inspired by the speed and accuracy of the vineyard staff, I added pace to my game and promptly sliced my hand open twice. "No bueno," said crew chief Arturo Garcia. Garcia has been with Left Coast for 14 years. Left Coast CEO Taylor Pfaff, who came of age on the vineyard blowing up gopher holes and dragging irrigation lines, will be the first to tell you Garcia is the one who knows Left Coast's vines, soils and fruit better than anyone. That day in the vineyard, Garcia led Duffy to where he wanted the next grapes harvested without so much as looking up or referencing a numbered stake. "He just knew," said Duffy. All too often, farmworkers the world over are celebrated for their toil while safety resources, benefits and pay remain wanting. Fortunately, Left Coast breaks that pattern with livable wages and leadership on initiatives like SALUD, which provides health care to vineyard workers and their families. "My management philosophy is simple," said Wright. "I hire happy people and try to keep them happy. It's setting your people up for success: Give them the space, the tools, the latitude and the support. I think you can taste the good energy in the bottle." 7. You'll Have Downtime, So Plan Ahead Boredom, it turns out, can be a big part of harvest, but it doesn't have to be. Even with expansive winemaking tasks supplemented with surprise duties like invasive blackberry eradication or bathroom mopping, it still takes several hours for the press to run its cycle, and those tasks don't take forever. In your downtime, you might continue your wine education with audio books (winemaker Wright's favorite wine listen is the novel "The Secret of Santa Vittoria") and podcasts (cellar hand Steven Leeb likes "I'll Drink to That"). And I recommend three other tools: 1) a jump rope, for downtime exercise, 2) resourcefulness, so when dismantling 600 buckets for reuse you might set an Oregon record for tallest bucket stack of all time, and 3) a meditative spot; I chose the north-facing patio at Left Coast. 8. Wine Is Grown, Not Made During a pause on the crush pad, the most fundamental lesson I heard from Wright echoes what accomplished winemakers love to remind everyone who will listen: Great wine happens in the vineyard, not in the winery. "I've known these grapes for the last six months, so I know the health of the fruit before it hits the pad," said Wright. "We do a lot of work here in the winery, but 75% is out there. A good crop will be good wine." Ghogale sits on the senior leadership team with Wright and others, but they all defer to Wright on the grapes. "Joe is an artist, and every artist has his or her process," said Ghogale. "He's so in tune with the vines, each block on our estate, and he dictates the outcome of each vintage." 9. Be Ready to Absorb Knowledge at All Times A sommelier friend and harvest veteran, Paul Wetterau, had two pieces of advice for me: Get good boots, and treat the hard work like higher ed. I took both to heart. "You can just do the work, or do the work and ask questions," he said. "Like college, you get out what you put in." Rutherford, the assistant winemaker, agreed. "A lot of times, you can get stuck doing the same routine, which is necessary from the winery's perspective—that you do something well and do it over and over—but remember to glean the moments," he said. "When you get time with the winemaker, have your questions ready. There's more than one way to do it. Different winemakers have different styles." 10. Happiness Is Found in the Small Tasks When we met, the dump truck had a thick greasy film coating its yellow frame. Its cabin filled my nose with a penetrating perfume of rodent. Its on-the-column gears were finicky. If I wasn't careful, its stuck ignition could drain the battery, and its burly back gate could crush me. I adored it. There's a certain grace to monotonous tasks like power-washing scores of macro bins in a row or hand-detailing two 8-ton fermenters, even scrubbing the dump truck itself, for hours, until it glowed. The logical and linear duties allowed for a welcome distraction from the worries of the world outside. But something about driving mounds of stems and skins to the compost pile, to be used in the vineyard later, transcended that. The rerouted waste fed growth and closed a loop. The route passed the winery's ducks, chickens and neighboring kitchen garden and ended in an oak grassland, so even as the truck bounced and coughed, it allowed a tour of how sustainable farms can embrace nature rather than repress it. Most importantly, it offered me the joy of rumbling by the tasting room patio while covered in pumice and grape juice, as visitors swirled pinot and clinked glasses. The chance to be on this side of the steering wheel, sweating out the production of a living liquid I have long enjoyed, felt like a baptism.

What is claret wine? Ask Decanter

Claret is tied to Britain's long-standing love affair with the wines of Bordeaux... Chris MercerJuly 28, 2021 Credit: Jean-Luc Benazet / Unsplash Ask Decanter Highlights Is claret wine the same as Bordeaux? It may be relatively rare to see someone ordering a glass of 'claret' wine these days, but the term has for many centuries been linked with Bordeaux - particularly for British wine lovers. You can still find it on some wine labels. Claret is mostly used as an unofficial way to describe Bordeaux red wines, although it's a protected name under EU law and there is reference to it in Bordeaux's appellation rules. The UK government has recognised claret's status as a registered 'traditional wine term' within the Bordeaux PDO, as an 'expression used to designate a pale red wine'. Is claret good wine? It's impossible to generalise, given its use as an unofficial umbrella term. The late, great wine writer Steven Spurrier once suggested that claret conveys a certain reassurance, as well as a stylistic hint. 'What is claret?,' asked Spurrier in a 2007 article on the 'claret lover's guide to New World Cabernets'. He continued, 'The red wine from Bordeaux, of course, but for the claret lover it is much more than this: an address book of well-known names, whose faces (or châteaux) are immediately recognisable, whose background and character, changeable with the years, is well known and well defined, on whom one can rely.' Spurrier wrote that elegance, 'fragrance of bouquet' and 'lift' were among the central tenets of a good claret. Wine writer Stacy Slinkard recently looked at great value Bordeaux claret on sale in the US, while Andy Howard MW looked at claret under £20-a-bottle worth seeking out in the UK. Why is claret used to describe Bordeaux red wine? It's believed to be linked to the French term 'clairet', and originally referred to very light red wines from Bordeaux. Award-winning wine expert Oz Clarke noted in his 'History of Wine in 100 Bottles' that claret wine came to the attention of thirsty drinkers across the English Channel after the marriage of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1151. This influenced a trade relationship, culminating in great convoys of ships transporting Bordeaux 'claret' wine into English and Scottish ports. Today, claret might be used to describe heavier Bordeaux red wines than the style being quaffed by high society in medieval England. Some have questioned claret's staying power in the vocabulary of 21st century wine lovers. 'Claret has slipped from unfashionable to almost irrelevant for most drinkers now,' said Jane Anson in 2017, during her time as Bordeaux correspondent for Decanter. 'Very few will even associate it with red Bordeaux. So perhaps it is ready for a revival?' Claret has occasionally been used to to reference red wines made elsewhere with a classic Bordeaux blend of grape varieties, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. As mentioned above, though, it's a protected name under EU law. A wine agreement between the US and EU in 2006 covered certain labelling terms. It prevented US wineries from using several names, including Champagne, Chianti and Claret, unless the bottle label was registered before the deal was signed.

How to Clean Wine Glasses, According to Six Wine Professionals

Whether you drink from fancy stemware or affordable Ikea finds, it's important to keep your wine glasses clean and crystal-clear. Stains and residue from soap or previous pours can alter the appearance and aromas of your wine, which will affect how you perceive its color, scent and taste. "You don't want anything to distort the wine in your glass," says Regina Jones Jackson, CSW, FWS. She's the owner and principal wine consultant of Corks and Cuvée wine shop in Atlanta. "What you're seeing in the glass will tell you a lot about the wine itself. If you have a little film or it's not quite clean enough, all of that is going in your wine." So, what's the best way to keep your glasses in peak condition? Sommeliers, wine buyers and other wine professionals share their strategies. How to handwash For many glasses, a sponge and unscented soap will do the trick. "At home, I wash all my glasses by hand," says Sarah Goler, wine director at Tannat Market and Tavern in New York City. "I just use dish soap and a sponge." "You don't want anything to distort the wine in your glass." —Regina Jones Jackson, Corks and Cuvée If your stemware is fragile, however, you might want to use specific tools. "We're a big fan of Grassl glasses in my house—beautiful, handblown wine glasses, but extremely delicate," says Kristin Olzewski, wine director at Gigi's in Los Angeles and cofounder of Nomadica. "It's always the most devastating day when one breaks." SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Olzewski soaks them in warm water with a touch of soap. For tough red-wine stains, she recommends these decanter cleaning beads. "They're essential for cleaning decanters, but sometimes I use them on my glassware," she says. There's also an array of wands and brushes specifically made to clean stemware safely. Jackson uses a brush "and do a circular motion from the base all the way up." In the dishwasher (maybe) If your wine glasses are on the hardier side, it's absolutely okay to put them in the dishwasher, says Victor Rabot, fine wine buyer at Sotheby's Wine. "I run mine with soap, so there's no bad aroma left in the glass," he says. The key is to load them carefully, preferably in the top rack where they'll jostle less. "Place glasses securely upside down, without allowing them to touch dishes or one another to avoid scratching," wrote Tammie Teclemariam and Marguerite Preston in The Wirecutter. "Some dishwashers come with clips on the racks that you can use to secure glasses by the stem." If your glasses are too tall for the upper rack, you might be able to lower it. If the dishwasher racks aren't adjustable, simply load glasses into the lower rack where they won't touch any other dishes or glasses. How to Clean a Decanter, According to Five Wine Professionals Air-dry or hand-dry? After she washes her glasses, Goler air dries them, but she warns that could result in faint droplet stains, depending on the mineral content of your water. So, Rabot recommends you dry glasses right after you clean them. Those pesky spots may not alter a wine's taste, but they will obscure its color. Jackson suggests polishing your glasses with a microfiber cloth right after you wash. "Polishing cloths really, really help to make sure there are no streaks on there," says Jackson. "I use them to dry my glasses so they look very nice, clean and almost sparkling." Use a gentle hand here. "When I'm drying, I hold the stem and never the base of the wine glass," says Olzewski, who uses a microfiber cloth on her glasses right after she washes them. "Holding the base can result in breakage, and I've seen some really insane restaurant accidents involving broken stems." Your safety is more valuable than any stemware.

Cooking with wine: Expert advice on what to use

Which wines should - and shouldn't - you use for cooking? We get some expert advice... Ellie DouglasMay 12, 2021 Credit: Sergiy Tryapitsyn / Alamy Stock Photo Affiliate Books Highlights Cooking with wine can really help enhance a dish, whether that's adding some to a slow cooked meaty sauce, a splash as you start a risotto or even as a marinade. But given how much thought goes into choosing wine to drink, how much should you think about which wines you cook with? Best wine for cooking - and what not to use 'The cardinal rule is if you wouldn't drink it, you shouldn't cook with it,' said food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in Decanter magazine. This is why you shouldn't use corked wines in cooking. 'The cork taint will come through in the finished dish.' Avoid cheap 'cooking wines' say our experts, and stick to the level of wines you would tend to drink. 'At best they won't add anything to your finished dish, and at worst they'll actively make it unpleasant,' Pete Dreyer, food writer at Great British Chefs, previously told Decanter.com. However, don't feel you have to use an expensive wine, said Beckett, who wrote The Wine Lover's Kitchen: Delicious recipes for cooking with wine. A bottle around the £8 mark should be fine. 'The only time to [use more expensive wine] is if a dish needs only a small amount of wine and you'd otherwise have to open another bottle,' wrote Beckett in The Wine Lover's Kitchen. For example, her book includes a Champagne and mushroom risotto recipe. 'It might seem wantonly extravagant.... But you need only a glass and the bonus is that you can drink the rest with the risotto.' If you are going to use a separate wine for cooking with, you could take inspiration from the style you would drink with the dish, but go for a cheaper alternative. 'An inexpensive Côtes du Rhône, for example, in a dish with which you'd drink a Gigondas,' suggested Beckett. If you're worried about needing to open a bottle that then won't be drunk, try this hack: 'Freeze leftover wine in an ice cube tray and keep the cubes handy in a freezer bag to add to a dish,' she wrote. Cooking with white wine Dishes that could use some white wine include risottos, white wine sauces (of course) or coq au Riesling. As a starting point, crisp, dry, unoaked whites work well. 'Pinot Grigio is really versatile - also Sauvignon Blanc; those are the two I would reach for first, and unoaked Chardonnay is fine,' said Dreyer. 'In most sauces, the most important thing is to consider the sweetness and acidity. As you cook off the alcohol and reduce the wine, both will become more pronounced, so you're best off sticking to dry whites, with a reasonable amount of acidity.' However, you could use a more aromatic variety if you wanted to. Beckett wrote, 'Wines with a pronounced aromatic character, such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer, are less flexible, but may turn out to be delicious with, for example, a creamy sauce. Feel free to experiment.' 'When cooking fish, I often use Gewürztraminer as it holds its character and aromas,' said chef Raymond Blanc, in the June 2021 issue of Decanter magazine. Cooking with red wine The best red wines to cook with are medium-bodied but not overly tannic, like Merlot or Grenache. Tannins in wine become more concentrated as you cook them, so a tannic wine may dry out the dish or cause astringent flavours. 'If cooking with reds, I avoid Pinot Noir. It is too elegant for the heat of a pan. Instead I reach for something inexpensive, big, spicy and rich,' said Blanc. Red wine isn't just for meaty sauces. 'You might not think of pouring red wine into a risotto but with beetroot it works beautifully,' suggested Beckett. Dryer added, 'It seems a bit weird, but it can work with flavours that traditionally accompany red wine - for example, mushroom risotto can work with red or white wine.' Fortified wines, such as Sherry, Madeira and Marsala, are also great for cooking. A small quantity adds strength, depth and often a welcome sweetness. Some recommend Vermouth for risottos too. If you cook with wine is there any alcohol left in the dish? 'There is a widespread misconception that it all cooks out, but unless you're cooking the dish for three hours or more there will be a residue - depending on how much wine you've used,' said Beckett. 'Worth bearing in mind if you're cooking for kids or non-drinkers.' 'It isn't essential, but before cooking with wine - red or white - I boil it for 10-20 seconds, removing most of the alcohol and intensifying the flavours,' said Blanc.

What temperature to serve white wine

White wine needs to be chilled, but are you serving it too cold? See our guide below. White wine serving temperature guide The style of your white wine impacts what temperature it should be served at. You need to consider factors like the weight and body of the wine, and whether it has been oaked. 'I tend to think of temperature as having an effect similar to the 'sharpen' feature in photo editing apps,' said James Fryer, beverage director for London restaurants Clipstone and Portland. 'Colder temperatures can accentuate lines and edges whereas, the warmer a wine becomes, the more those edges can seem to blur and overlap.' 'Acidity and fruit tend to be the two end-points of this equation, with fruit character becoming more obvious with increasing temperature - whilst acidity tends to stick out a bit more, as those fruitier tones recede at lower temperatures.' What temperatures should they be? At a glance Lighter white wines are served the chilled, between 7-10 ̊ C (44- 50 ̊ F). White wines with more body, or oak, should be served at a warmer temperature of 10-13 ̊ C (50 - 55 ̊ F) - just lightly chilled. Sparkling wines are best served well chilled, at 6 - 10 ̊ C (42 - 50 ̊F) The best temperatures for white wines. Credit: Annabelle Sing/Decanter 'Young, crisp and aromatic wines show well at the lower end of the spectrum; cool temperatures emphasise their refreshing qualities and acidity,' said DWWA judge Matt Walls. 'Mature, complex whites are best served cool rather than cold, their aromas being more open at the warmer end of the scale.' 'I'll tend to leave Chardonnay and things of its ilk - Viognier, Roussane, Marsanne - out in the cellar rather than putting them in the fridge,' said Fryer. 'I do love sparkling wines a bit colder, though not ice cold and, during hotter months - or perhaps that should be single month in the case of the UK. I like to switch over to Riesling where a bit more chill can accentuate the grape's natural acidity.' 'My domestic fridge is set to 4 ̊ C and I usually put my whites in for an hour and a half for a light chill, two and a half hours for a full chill,' said Walls. Sparkling wines should be served well chilled. Credit: Cath Lowe/Decanter Can your white wine get too cold? Yes - if it's served too cold, it can potentially mask some of the flavours. 'As a rule, people tend to over-chill their whites, but at least a wine that's too cold will gradually warm up in the glass,' said Walls. 'If wines get too cold, at a certain point a wine will become so angular and sharp-edged that it becomes unpleasant. It's like you're left with only the bones of a wine without any of the flesh - the fruits, florals, spice - that makes it individual and enjoyable,' said Fryer. Chilling wine in a hurry? 'If I'm in a hurry, I'll put them in the freezer for 22 minutes for a light chill, 28 minutes for a full chill - just make sure you don't forget about them!' said Walls. 'An ice bath is always good (with bottle completely submerged),' said Fryer. 'But, if all else fails, I'm not adverse to popping an ice-cube or two into the glass either - it's your wine, you bought it, you should be able to do what you want with it right?'

The Ecosystems Behind Three Common Wine Descriptors

From single vineyards to entire regions, winegrowing areas around the world each boast a distinct blend of environmental factors that influences the characteristics of wine. Elements like temperature, sunlight and rainfall play a part, as do more granular details, like soil's pH level and microbial makeup. When it comes to tasting and describing wine, some regions' combined environs have such a distinct impact on the final product that they are more commonly considered together, grouped under a single term that refers to their joint influence on aroma or flavor. Garrigue, chaparral and fynbos are all examples of such descriptors that have earned big reputations for the effects on the wines they birth. Here, we take a closer look at their physical breakdown. The 'Monumental' Role Soil Microbes Play in Wine Garrigue Ringing the Mediterranean, garrigue is a low, brushy scrubland grown in calcareous or limestone soils. It's composed predominantly of kermes oak, juniper, evergreen holm oak, lavender, thyme, rosemary and sage. Though some say the limestone origins are crucial for the term's use, it refers primarily to the fragrant, herbaceous aspects of garrigue's rustic, sun-blasted herbs. It's expressed most notably in red wines from the South of France. Chaparral Technically speaking, chaparral is a terrestrial biozone, or regional system of vegetation, made up of forests and scrublands, and divided into coastal, montane and interior subregions. It extends primarily through California but can also be found in Oregon. Made up of native plants like bay laurel, sage, sumac, lupine, tree poppy, manzanita and mountain mahogany, it typically influences wines to develop pungent, earthy characteristics that some liken to garrigue. It's often tied to California red wines. Fynbos Meaning "fine bush" in Afrikaans, fynbos refers to the swathe of biodiverse mountainous and lowland shrubland in the Cape Floristic Region of South Africa's Western and Eastern Cape. Composed of more than 9,000 plant species, its rich florals can impact the nose and flavor of area wines, especially whites like Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Many winemakers also use it as a cover crop, as it helps with pest control, moisture, microbial diversity and carbon dioxide retention, and improves the health of the soil overall.

How long does wine last after opening? - Ask Decanter

Here are the things to consider when weighing up how long your bottle of wine will last after you've opened it, particularly if it's in the kitchen fridge. Chris MercerMarch 26, 2021 A wine fridge could help keep your bottles at a consistent temperature. Credit: : Евгений Вершинин / Alamy Stock Photo Affiliate Ask Decanter Highlights How long can an open bottle last in the fridge? If you're wondering how long wine can last after opening, a bottle of white or rosé wine should be able to keep going for at least two to three days in the fridge, if using a cork stopper. But it varies depending on the style involved. Some wine styles may last for up to five days after opening. Sparkling wines, such as Prosecco or Champagne, can stay fresh and will keep some fizz for a similar amount of time, but need to be properly sealed - ideally with a specific Champagne bottle stopper. Champagne expert Tyson Stelzer said that many people would be surprised that an open bottle will 'still keep some fizz in the fridge for some days'. The most reliable way of keeping them fresh is 'to use a Champagne stopper that provides a tight seal, and to keep the bottle as cold as possible'. So don't listen to fables about spoons in the Champagne bottle-neck. Le Creuset Champagne stopper£16.50 Now £15 on Amazon UK VIEW DEAL How long does red wine last after opening? While some lighter styles of red wine can be chilled, it's generally better to keep full-bodied reds out of the kitchen fridge once opened. Colder temperatures may make a heavy red wine taste unbalanced by bringing tannin and oak to the fore. Ignore this if you have a temperature-controlled wine fridge, of course. Red wines can generally last three to five days if stored with a stopper in a cool, dark place, said UK retailer Laithwaites after publishing a study in 2017 on the amount of wine people throw away. Does fortified wine last for longer after opening? Some fortified wines are built to last and can be kept in the kitchen fridge for up to several weeks once opened. 'I nearly always have a bottle of tawny on the go in the fridge,' said Decanter Port expert Richard Mayson in 2016. In her recent feature on serving and preserving sweet and fortified wines, Anne Krebiehl MW said ruby and reserve will last a few weeks and Tawny could have up to six weeks in the fridge. The only one to not keep hanging around is vintage Port, which should be drunk up in a few days. Sweet wines will also last well when refrigerated, said Krebiehl. 'These wines are resilient,' Aline Baly, co-owner of Château Coutet in Barsac, previously told Decanter. 'That you can keep a bottle open for more than a week is a fact unknown to many.' It's worth bearing in mind that there are also a diverse range of gadgets claiming to make your wine last longer, although we haven't tested them for this article. Would you know if a wine has gone off? In particular, look out for the wine becoming oxidised. Have the fruit aromas and flavours become dulled, or has the colour dimmed or gained a brown-edged tinge? The colour gauge works less well on a Tawny Port, because the wine has already been subjected to controlled oxidation to a greater extent. Also, look out for vinegary notes, which may be the result of bacteria causing a build-up of acetic acid. See this guide to common wine flaws and faults for more information. One of the advantages of bag-in-box wine is that it tends to last longer than an opened bottle. What about keeping an unopened wine in the fridge? How sure are you about the plan to drink this particular bottle? We have some helpful tips on chilling wine in a hurry. Louis Roederer's chef de cave and executive vice-president, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, told guests at a Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in 2014 that one should 'put Champagne in the fridge 48 hours before drinking it', if possible. However, remember that wine generally doesn't enjoy big temperature fluctuations; unlike vineyard managers, who often speak about the importance of diurnal range during the growing season. This is one of the reasons why it's generally recommended not to store wine in the kitchen or near radiators. Paolo Basso, named the world's best sommelier in 2013, says that age is an important consideration . 'Like any food product, exposure to cold will slow or stop the ripening process,' he said in Decanter magazine in 2016. 'If you do this only once to a young and robust wine, it will generally resume its ageing process without consequence after a period in the fridge. 'But a more mature wine, which is less resistant to shock, may suffer. Wine is like us; in youth, we will recover more easily after an accident but when we are older, recovery will be more difficult.' Wine corks can also harden if a bottle is in the fridge for too long, which may allow air through and give you oxidation problems. Do you have a 'wine fridge'? This doesn't mean throwing out the vegetables and packing your 'normal' fridge with bottles. A temperature-controlled wine fridge will naturally give you an advantage by helping you to maintain constant, ideal conditions for storage more easily. 'Some wine fridges offer multi-zone temperature control as well as humidity control, allowing wines to be chilled ready to serve while other wines are maturing at 'cellar' temperature,' said Decanter's James Button. Original article published in 2016 with comments from Paolo Basso. Updated for Decanter.com by Chris Mercer in July 2019 and again in March 2021.

What is residual sugar in wine? - Ask Decanter

How can residual sugar end up in the wine, and how does it affect the taste? Sylvia WuJuly 16, 2020 Credit: Mike Prior / Decanter Ask Decanter Highlights Residual sugar (or RS) refers to the sugars left unfermented in a finished wine. It is measured by grams of sugar per litre (g/l). The amount of residual sugar affects a wine's sweetness and, in the EU, the RS level is linked to specific labelling terms. For example, a wine containing more than 45 g/l is a 'sweet wine'. It's rare for a wine to drop below 1 g/l, because some types of sugar simply cannot be consumed by the yeast. On the other hand, at least 150g/l of residual sugar is required for a 'six puttonyos' Tokaji sweet wine. And, while it isn't the fashion today, some Champagnes from the 19th century have been found to contain 150g/l of residual sugar. These days, labelling terms for still wines in the EU include: Up to 4g/l Dry / Sec 4 g/l - 12 g/l Medium dry / demi-sec 12 g/l - 45 g/l Medium (Medium sweet) More than 45 g/l Sweet / Doux For sparkling wines, the labelling terms are regulated as follows: Up to 3 g/l Brut Nature Up to 6 g/l Extra Brut Up to 12 g/l Brut 12 g/l-17 g/l Extra Dry / Extra Sec 17 g/l -32 g/l Dry / Sec 32 g/l -50 g/l Demi-sec More than 50 g/l Sweet / Doux What's the difference between Champagne and Prosecco? Sweet sensation It's worth noting that besides residual sugar, other elements of wine could also affect people's perception of sweetness. For instance, high acidity gives freshness and a sense of lightness, even if the wine has a considerable amount of residual sugar. In fact, the upper limit of residual sugar for 'dry' and 'medium dry' still wines can be raised to 9g/l and 18 g/l, if there is the appropriate level of acidity to balance. Other factors, such as oak, fruit flavours, alcohol levels and serving temperature, can also have an impact on the perceived sweetness of a wine. Sometimes they can trick drinkers by bringing the perception of sweetness to a wine with a very low RS level. How can a dry wine taste sweet? Making sweet wines There are many reasons why extra sugars are 'left over' in wine without being converted into alcohol. For example, sometimes the grape juice has such high levels of sugar that it cannot be fully turned into alcohol. This is mainly because the accumulated alcohol can eventually impede the activities of the yeast. Typical sweet wines made using juice with a high sugar concentration include: Sauternes (noble rot) Icewine (frozen grapes) Late harvest sweet wines, like Recioto della Valpolicella, produced from dried grapes. Winemakers can also choose to terminate the fermentation before the sugar has been used up. This can be done by cooling down the ferment then filtering out the yeast, such as for Moscato d'Asti, or by adding grape spirits or sulphites to kill the yeast, such as for Ruby Port and 'vin doux naturels'. At a certain level, residual sugar may help a sharp, acidic wine to taste mellower and a plain wine more flavoursome. Some everyday wines are made by simply adding sweeteners, such as preserved grape juice, to dry wines before bottling to make them more palatable. However, residual sugar can also be a dangerous enemy to the stability of a still wine, because it may trigger re-fermentation in the bottle. Microbes may feed on the sugars left in the wine and generate unwanted flavours and gas. Therefore, it is essential for producers to either completely eliminate the fermentable sugar in the wine, or get rid of the yeast via sterile filtration at the point of bottling.

2,600-Year-Old Wine Press Discovered in Lebanon, but What Were They Drinking?

A very large, very old wine facility reveals some critical clues about the winemaking prowess of the ancient Phoenicians Do a little dance, make a little wine: An illustration of how the Phoenicians likely operated the press in its heyday. (Courtesy of the American University of Beirut) By Suzanne Mustacich Sep 30, 2020 It's been a big year for exciting finds in ancient wine, and the latest one is outsized in both significance and, well, size. Archaeologists have unearthed a 2,600-year-old Phoenician wine press at an excavation in Lebanon of a site called Tell el-Burak. The ancient wine installation is particularly noteworthy for numerous reasons: its dimensions, its location and the rare evidence it provides of local production meant for export. The Phoenicians were known for winemaking know-how, but finding physical evidence of it had proved tricky. "Phoenician wine is known to us from ancient texts," Hélène Sader, professor of archaeology at the American University of Beirut and co-director of the Tell el-Burak Archaeological Project, explained to Unfiltered: Ancient Egyptians and Greeks both mention wine from the civilization's prosperous seaside cities. "Now we have evidence that wine was produced in Phoenicia and exported." Excellent condition for the vintage: The basin for pressing (top) flows into a vat to collect juice for fermentation. (Courtesy of the American University of Beirut) Tell el-Burak provides the key to the production side of things. In findings published this month in the journal Antiquity, Sader and her team described the wine facility, the first discovered from the Iron Age in what is now Lebanon. A rectangular basin could hold some 1,200 gallons of grape must, which the winemakers crushed by foot, with juice draining into a vat slightly below; the site, which dates to at least the 7th century B.C., is remarkably well-preserved by the lime plaster coating that once kept the juice from leaking all over the place. The grapes would have been local, coming in from nearby vineyards. But the resulting wine made its way across the Mediterranean, as previous discoveries of Phoenician amphorae at far-flung sites shows. "The most telling evidence is the discovery of two shipwrecks off the shore of Ashkelon [in modern-day Israel] en route for North Africa, which contained a shipment of Phoenician amphorae containing wine," said Sader. Wine was important to the economy and culture of the seafaring Phoenicians, who had a reputation for savvy in both drink and trade. "The Phoenicians used wine for religious and funerary rituals and offered it to their gods because they considered it to be a precious and valuable drink," explained Sader, adding that they exported it around the Mediterranean and perhaps beyond. "They also crossed the Straits of Gibraltar and reached the Atlantic coast of the Iberian Peninsula and Morocco." What did they and their gods like most in their cups? Unfortunately, it's still unclear which ancient grape varieties they vinified and how those grapes might be linked to modern varieties. "The seeds collected at Tell el-Burak were charred and could not be studied for DNA," said Sader. Descendants of those varieties were wiped out by phylloxera. But Sader has a clue to the hue. "It seems that the predominant wine that was produced in antiquity was red wine," she said. Lebanon's modern wine titans would approve.

The Complex Science and Evolving Toll of Smoke Taint

In 2020, a series of wildfires ravaged parts of Northern California and western Oregon, blanketing much of the West Coast with smoke. This came on the heels of major fire events during the previous three years that burned nearly 3.8 million acres in California alone. Meanwhile, Australia suffered devastating fires in 2019 and 2020 that affected Queensland, New South Wales, South Australia and Victoria. Whenever there are wildfire and smoke events in wine country, after first trying to process the multitude of horrors inflicted upon those who live there, wine professionals may wonder about the impact on that year's vintage. The effect of smoke on wine grapes is complex, so it can be hard to say. "Just because you have smoke doesn't mean your grapes will be smoke-impacted," says Anita Olberholster, a researcher at University of California, Davis who studies the subject. "What we tell growers is, if there is smoke, there is a potential risk. But it's just a potential risk. Don't assume. It's very difficult to predict." Over the last three years, wildfires have burned nearly 3.8 million acres in California / Getty Tom Collins, who studies smoke influence in wine at Washington State University in Richland, Washington, agrees. "It's a complex mix of things to go from having some smoke in the vineyard to having an impact on the quality of the wine," says Collins. "You have to look at all of the various factors to start to understand whether a particular exposure is going to result in a problem or not." Those factors include everything from wind speed and age of the smoke to winemaking decisions and the composition of the wine itself. In fact, even trying to evaluate the presence of smoke influence can be challenging. What is Smoke Taint? The effects of smoke on wine grapes can range from what's referred to as influence or impact, which can be relatively minor. These grapes can still be used to produce wine, albeit perhaps with some corrective measures. The scale goes all the way up to smoke taint, where the wine is considered faulted. Smoke-influenced wines can smell like mesquite smoke, tar and clove. These can range from quite subtle to overt. "Early on in a ferment, [smoke taint] will actually smell really nice," says Brian Rudin, winemaker at Canvasback in Walla Walla, Washington. "[It] can have a woodsy, resinous spice that's attractive, or smells almost like Mexican chocolate. But it can become a distraction later in the wine's life and add a layer of flavor that doesn't belong." "Just because you have smoke doesn't mean your grapes will be smoke-impacted."—Anita Olberholster, University of California, Davis Aromas in a smoke-tainted wine can become increasingly distinctive. "It's not the kind of subtle waft of a distant wood fire," says Tim Kirk, co-owner/winemaker at Clonakilla in Australia's Canberra District. "It's burnt salami served on an ashtray." Caleb Foster, winemaker at J. Bookwalter Winery in Richland, Washington, echoes this sentiment. "It's like licking an ashtray or the burnt side of a cigar," says Foster. "I tend to get [these flavors] at the tip or the tail, at the very beginning of the taste or on the finish." What Causes Smoke Taint? Smoke influence in wine occurs when trees and other vegetation burn. As much as a quarter of wood consists of a compound called lignin, a structural component that provides its strength and rigidity. When lignin burns, it creates airborne compounds, referred to as volatile phenols. These compounds can be transported over large distances. Ultimately, the compounds either degrade or settle on the ground. This can make it hard to determine their impact. "One of the biggest questions I get is 'I'm X miles away from the fire. Am I safe?' " says Olberholster. "It's not about distance, per se. It depends on a lot of different factors. We've had [vineyards] that were 100 miles away more impacted than one that was 10 miles away." In 2019 and 2020, Australia suffered fires that affected Queensland, New South Wales, South Australia and Victoria / Getty The intensity of the smoke and the duration of the exposure contribute to any lasting effects on grapes. Another important factor is the freshness of the smoke. The volatile compounds that cause smoke taint can potentially degrade or drop out over time and distance. While people see smoke and worry about its potential effect, smoke's visual presence and even the Air Quality Index are not necessarily reliable indicators of its impact on wine grapes. "Many times when we look at smoke, what you're seeing is particulate matter," says Olberholster. "Particulate matter is not volatile phenols. Volatile phenols are really, really small. They aren't even measured by particulate counters." Smoke in the Vineyard Once smoke is in a vineyard, these volatile compounds can get onto grapevines and leaves, and depending upon the phase of the growing season, the berries. The latter is where the largest issues lie. "Berries are a little bit like a sponge," says Olberholster. "[Smoke] doesn't stay outside the skin. It actually moves inside." Once volatile smoke compounds enter the berry, a chemical reaction takes place. "When grapes are exposed to volatile smoke compounds, they absorb these compounds, and then they add sugar units to them," says Eric Wilkes, a chemist who studies smoke taint at the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI). Battling Wildfires and the Pandemic, Some U.S. Winemakers Forgo the 2020 Vintage This process is believed to be a defense mechanism, rendering these compounds less harmful to the plant, but also more difficult to detect. The phase in the plant's growth cycle can also make a critical difference. Research indicates that grapes are most susceptible to smoke damage in the first seven days following veraison, when grapes change their color. However, the risk remains up until harvest. Earlier smoke events can still have an effect. "If they are the right type, it appears you can have pre-veraison exposures that can have an impact on the quality of the fruit and the wine," says Collins. Testing for Smoke Influence Determining whether smoke influence is present in grapes is not simply a matter of tasting them. "Tasting grapes tells you absolutely nothing," says Foster. "Yummy tasting grapes can be smoked." Rather, winemakers must rely on two tools: analytic testing and sensory evaluation. Analytic testing is conducted by a commercial laboratory that examines the grapes, ferments the juice or both. The lab looks at between two and 13 markers that indicate potential smoke exposure, like volatile and sugar-bound compounds. However, smoke involves thousands of compounds, and the wine is in its earliest stages. So even these indicators might not tell the entire story. "Invariably, what you're trying to do is make an assessment based on analytics of something that is pretty much at the embryonic stage, with a view of looking at how it's going to develop as an adult," says Con Simos, industry development and support manager at AWRI. "That's a real challenge." "Tasting grapes tells you absolutely nothing. Yummy-tasting grapes can be smoked."—Caleb Foster, J. Bookwalter Winery Some of these marker compounds are also found in toasted oak barrels. Once a wine touches oak, whether during fermentation or aging, it's difficult or impossible to evaluate for smoke's impact without a look at a broader range of compounds. Even tests on fermenting juice in stainless steel or grapes can be nuanced and may not lead to binary answers. "We simply can't tell someone, 'Your fruit is going to be tainted, or your wine is going to be tainted,' " says Wilkes. "But what we can say is, do your grapes fall into the expected range for these compounds, or is it only a little bit above, or is it massively above? It's really about giving people a better ability to make a risk assessment." Sensory Evaluation Sensory evaluation involves doing "bucket ferments," or small-scale fermentations, in advance of harvest, and then tasting the fermenting juice. Doing so is fraught with issues, however. First, there are inherent challenges in trying to smell and taste juice that is actively fermenting and releasing compounds that can enhance or mask smoke aromas and flavors. Human variables abound, too. "There's naturally a lot of genetic diversity in people and what they can smell and taste," says Oregon State University's Elizabeth Tomasino, who studies sensory aspects of smoke exposure to grapes. "About 20% of the population, they don't taste [smoke taint] at all. But that leaves 80% that do." Within that 80%, sensitivity can vary by as much as a hundredfold. Foster experienced this when he poured a wine he knew to be smoke-tainted to a group of winemakers and growers. The response was varied. "I realized in that moment, this is where it's really hard," says Foster. "I don't want to go into the market where some people think it's fine and some people don't. And some people are going to be pissed that they just spent that money and think I lied to them." Smoke's visual presence and even the Air Quality Index are not necessarily reliable indicators of its impact on wine grapes / Getty Finally, the composition of the wine itself can affect how smoke influence presents. "If you have slightly different [alcohol] concentrations, that's going to change your perception of these compounds," says Tomasino, who adds that variety and wine style also make a difference. "We found doing this in different Pinot Noirs, we're getting different [sensory] thresholds." Remediation Techniques Once potentially smoke-impacted grapes are harvested and taken to the winery, various winemaking techniques can either limit or exacerbate any possible effects. "The more processing that you undertake, anything that's going to extract that juice, you're going to get higher levels of releases of these compounds," says AWRI's Simos. Hand harvesting decreases risk, as does excluding leaves and stems, minimizing time that juice ferments on the skins, restricting use of enzymes that enhance flavor or color, cooler fermentations and keeping press fractions separate. If a wine is lightly smoke-influenced, winemakers can try fining agents, activated carbon or reverse osmosis. All approaches need to be used with caution. "Invariably, a lot of the treatments that work, they also have an impact on the quality of the wine as well," says Simos. Analytic testing has its limits. Interpretation can be nuanced, and capacity can become overwhelmed during widespread disaster events. The timing of treatment is also critical. "If you are going to treat a wine for smoke, early in its life is better," says Canvasback's Rudin. "You have to be very careful that you're not pulling away all of the wonderful flavors and textures. It's like you have this beautiful painting, but with a fly stuck in the oil paint. We want to try to touch just that one thing." At higher levels or later in the process, winemakers may have little choice but to discard the wine. Even with treatment, smoke taint can potentially return as the wine ages in bottle and sugar-bound smoke compounds become liberated. "I'd never not been able to solve a problem before," says Foster. "I've made great wines from moldy grapes and from grapes with other problems. You can always do something to make wine that you can stand behind. But with smoke taint, sometimes you've entered a dead end." An Industry Under Fire Many times, however, smoke exposure can have little or no effect on the final wines. This was the case in Washington's 2018 vintage, when wildfire smoke filled the air for weeks during veraison and harvest. Not only did the resulting wines seem to show little impact, it was perhaps the state's best vintage qualitatively in the last 20 years. These sorts of complexities make decisions challenging for growers and winemakers. "What are you going to do?" says Rudin. "If you see a little smoke in the air, you're not going to give up and not crush grapes. It's our job to make the best wines we can every single year, whatever the conditions are." Other times, when smoke is severe, the results can be ruinous. This was true for some Australian wineries during the 2019-2020 fires. "The whole coast seemed to be on fire," says Tim Kirk at Clonakilla in New South Wales. "Fifty to 100 kilometers away, you could see this eerie red glow." While the fires were distant from his winery, testing showed levels of smoke marker compounds in Kirk's grapes 10 times the amount that most people would notice and find objectionable. "We made the very painful decision once we'd seen enough of the analysis results coming back that we couldn't make any wine from our vineyards or any vineyards," says Kirk. "We just said, 'We can't do it.' " Even analytic testing has its limits. Interpretation can be nuanced, and capacity can become overwhelmed during widespread disaster events. That occurred when smoke blanketed the entire U.S. West Coast during the 2020 harvest. "We're on a war footing," said Gordon Burns, president of ETS Laboratories in St. Helena, California, in mid-September. "The areas impacted are completely unprecedented. If [wineries] need a number for the purpose of insurance coverage, we can help with that. If they're trying to do analysis to make a harvest decision for this year, it's unlikely that we can satisfy that need." Later that month, ETS's main laboratory had to close due to wildfires in the immediate vicinity. Smoke-Tainted Wine Grapes Find New Purpose in Craft Spirits Testing capacity was similarly overrun in Australia last season. "Some of the hardest emails I've had to send out was to customers to say you're not going to get your results in 10 working days even though your fruit is ready to be picked now," says Wilkes. In the end, growers and winemakers have to determine how to proceed based on what tests say and what they taste. Consumers then have to decide if they are going to buy wines from potentially smoke-impacted vintages. "It's really an industry issue because nobody would knowingly sell a bad product," says Foster, who notes that smoke-tainted wines aren't a health hazard. "You can drink smoke-tainted wine. It's not poison. But the question is, do we like it?" With major wildfire events and the like increasingly common, researchers and winemakers continue to strive to better understand smoke taint. They aim to develop prevention methods in the vineyard, create remediation techniques in the winery and fine-tune testing. Wine is a $72-billion industry in the U.S., and the financial impact of disastrous wildfires like those of the last four years is clear. Even smaller-scale events can have devastating effects on growers and wineries. "What's happened this year in different countries is a wakeup call to viticulture worldwide," says Simos. "We're really not going to get on top of climate change. It's something we're going to have to live with. It's not going to go away. It's something that people are somehow going to have to adapt to and live with and come up with some strategies to manage it."

Before Stonewall, There Was Julius', NYC's Oldest Gay Bar

In the heart of the West Village, steps from the Christopher Street train station, stands a historic gay bar. Once, about a half a century ago, it found itself at the epicenter of an unprecedented protest asserting gay people's right to gather in public spaces without police harassment. Not the iconic Stonewall Inn, but Julius'. At the corner of Waverly Place and West 10th Street, Julius' is the oldest gay bar in New York City. And in April 1966, three years before the famed riots at nearby Stonewall that many historians mark as the start of the modern LGBTQ rights movement, Julius' was the site of a very different rebellion: a "Sip-In." The Sip-In was the brainchild of the Mattachine Society, an early gay rights group. Mattachine, led by president Dick Leitsch, was out to solve a problem: though the State Liquor Authority had no regulation against serving gay people in bars, it did prohibit establishments from serving "disorderly" patrons—and all gay people were considered, by interpretation, disorderly. The Mattachines set a plan. They would visit a bar, announce they were gay, and request a drink. When the business inevitably declined to serve them, they would file a complaint with the State Liquor Authority, forcing the state to recognize that refusing to serve gay patrons was a violation of their civil rights. Oakland's White Horse Inn Lets the Sunshine In Julius' was the fourth bar visited by the group on April 21, 1966—the first three either shut down in anticipation of their arrival or, bemused by the stunt, served them openly. Paradoxically, it was precisely Julius' popularity with gay customers that made it a sure bet for the outcome the Mattachines sought. The establishment was a frequent target of the police, its patrons often entrapped and arrested for "solicitation" by plainclothes officers. The activists knew the bar would not risk serving four men who sat down and publicly announced their homosexuality. Their plan worked. The activists ordered their drinks, then stated they were gay. The bartender quickly covered a glass with his hand, indicating his refusal to serve them. A Village Voice photographer, Fred McDarrah, captured the moment in an iconic photograph that still hangs at Julius' today. The Mattachine Society never successfully filed a discrimination suit based on the Sip-In, though in a related case the following year, a state court ruled that bars could not be shut down for the presence of homosexuality alone. But the message they espoused—that they had the right not just to exist in public spaces, but to be out in those spaces—is one that still resonates. Only in June of this year did the Supreme Court rule on another case that, if decided differently, could have endangered any queer or trans person who dared to declare their identity openly in a hostile space. Julius', at the corner of Waverly Place and West 10th Street, New York City / Photo by dbimages, Alamy Today, Julius' has been in operation for some 150-plus years, having opened in the 1860s and remained in business throughout the entire twentieth century. Its long history is evident in the physical space. Julius' is practically a museum, from the wagon-wheel chandeliers to the Jacob Ruppert Brewery barrels that support the century-old oak bar. Framed black-and-white photos on the wall have been up for at least 75 years, and probably longer—they appear in the background of a picture that the photographer Weegee took at the bar in 1945. Even the menu is old. The bar's tiny kitchen still serves the same hamburgers that a guidebook author called "peerless" in 1959. That history is important, says Ken Lustbader, one of the founders and directors of the NYC LGBT Historic Sites Project, which successfully nominated Julius' to the National Register of Historic Places in 2016. "It's what a community space should look like...you get to meet some of our queer elders and have conversations with people who have been in that same seat for 30 years or more. And I think that's something to embrace." —Jason Rosenberg, member of ACT UP and Julius' patron "Julius' is authentic," he says. "You go to Julius' and you're in a physical space that would be recognizable to someone who went there in the early twentieth century. So, in some ways you're time-traveling. It enables you to go in there and know that there were so many people who came before you, and that history was made in this location that changed the trajectory of LGBT rights...that's the wonder of it." ACT UP, the long-running queer activist group, hosts an annual fundraiser at Julius', bringing in a DJ and decking the bar with ACT UP buttons, flyers and signs. "It's my favorite bar," says Jason Rosenberg, a member of ACT UP who's been visiting Julius' for about five years. "It's one of the few queer bars that have stuck to its roots of serving the community and actually investing its time and energy in the community." The bar's widely beloved owner, Helen Buford, donates to the organization every year. She also opens Julius' doors wide on Thanksgiving and Christmas, serving a buffet dinner for anyone who might want to spend the holiday there. "It's what a community space should look like," says Rosenberg. Plus, he adds, "you get to meet some of our queer elders and have conversations with people who have been in that same seat for 30 years or more. And I think that's something to embrace." In 1966, at the time of the Sip-In, Julius' had been a popular gay haunt for close to a decade—one 1964 write-up describes it, euphemistically, as drawing "an amazing quantity of attractive men, theater notables." But it was far from an openly gay bar, as the Mattachines Sip-In illustrated. Their protest called for recognition—it was, in a sense, the first public claim to Julius' as a gay space. Their protest called for recognition. It was, in a sense, the first public claim to Julius' as a gay space. From Drag Shows to Weeknight Drinks, This Queer Dive Feels Like Home Today, 54 years later, they have definitively won. Julius' big windows face onto the street, the bar's unofficial historian and long-time regular Tom Bernardin points out. They are open, inviting; they hide nothing. And this month, for Pride, they are decorated with long paper chains of rainbow hearts. "We need it," says Bernardin, when asked about what makes Julius' special. "Marriage equality, the Supreme Court [ruling], all of that's great news. But we need a place to be able to talk."

What Does 'Crunchy' Mean in Wine?

Rajat Parr, the Calcutta-raised superstar sommelier who's now a winemaker on California's Central Coast, used the word "crunchy" regularly to describe wines when he worked at RN74 restaurant in San Francisco more than a decade ago. "It's a textural thing," he says of the term. "I always think of wine in different textures, as a square box, or as round, or with triangular edges. So crunchy for me is a wine that has many edges, wines that have acid and brittle tannins, not hard tannins, but brittle tannins which hit you all over your mouth." So, what does "crunchy" mean, exactly? To many wine professionals, it's a style of crisp and taut wine with a fresh cranberry-like tang. Crunchy wines tend to be food friendly and often result from minimal-intervention winemaking, but there's no formal definition. What Does "Texture" Mean in Wine? To Parr, good examples of crunchy wines are cool-climate Syrahs and Cabernet Francs, Pineau d'Aunis, Mondeuse and most reds from the Canary Islands. Though Pinot Noir can be crunchy, he doesn't usually find that, nor does he with wines made from Nebbiolo. New oak also tends to round out the tannins and remove the crunch. "Whole cluster can add to the crunch," says Parr, as can dissolved carbon dioxide, which adds a fresh sensation to wine. "Different things can come into play to be called a crunchy wine." "It's like the experience of having a cranberry or fresh cherry or raspberry that still have crunchiness to them... They just leap out and grab you." —Jackson Rohrbaugh Seattle-based sommelier Jackson Rohrbaugh, who worked many years at Canlis, named his blog, and later his retail wine company, Crunchy Red Fruit. He recalls first seeing the word in the writings of legendary British wine scribes like Michael Broadbent and Hugh Johnson. It became a bit of a joke among friends while studying for somm exams. They'd often say, "crunchy red fruit" in an English accent. "Crunchy, to me, describes wines that have a just-ripe or underripe quality in a very pleasant or appetizing way," said Rohrbaugh. "It's like the experience of having a cranberry or fresh cherry or raspberry that still have crunchiness to them. They're textural and also tangy and vibrant on the palate. They just leap out and grab you." SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY His crunchy picks are Gamay Noir, Mencía from Spain and, like Parr, Pineau d'Aunis. Some undergo carbonic fermentation, and many natural wines have this character. "The types of natty stuff I like the most are those almost cloudy, bright cherry red wines that you could put in the fridge for an hour, and are meant to be crushed," he says. "They're glou glou. They're quaffable." What Does 'Dry Red Wine' Mean? Both agree that interest in crunchy wines has been on the rise in the U.S. Parr believes its tarted with a Syrah that Pax Mahle made from the Sonoma Coast for his Wind Gap label more than a dozen years ago. "That was like, crunch," says Parr. "Now you see a lot more people doing that."

Which of these is NOT among the top, reputable auction houses in the wine world? Christie's Zachys Sotheby's Sleepy's

Sleepy's

How to Buy Wine at the Supermarket, According to Sommeliers

Sommeliers drink supermarket wine, too. Many enjoy Hot Pockets for dinner, and—yes—there are cheap, cheery wines they truly love on Aisle 12. "I call them house wines," says Cassandra Felix, an advanced sommelier who relocated to California this year after a decade of work at The Breakers in Palm Beach, Florida. "When you cellar a bottle, you don't want to open it on a random Tuesday, so I make sure I always have a bottle that's easy to drink." As Americans make fewer trips to the grocery store and eat more meals at home, it's hard to beat a chance to stock up on olive oil, tortilla chips and $13 Albariño all in one place. Cassandra Felix / Photo by Lauren Samson Felix grew up in South Florida and knows how to navigate a Publix. Top shelf really means top shelf, she says, and shoppers can find bargain-focused wines on lower shelves. Her other advice: "Don't be embarrassed. Go ahead and throw a bottle in with your peanut butter and jelly." Sommelier Belinda Chang is a supermarket wine devotee. "It might amuse you, but I buy 90% of my wine at the grocery store," says Chang, who's led wine programs at iconic restaurants like Charlie Trotter's and The Modern. She lives in Chicago and shops at Mariano's, a regional supermarket chain that she says carries "$5.99 quaffers up to Silver Oak." Over the past several months, Chang has hosted a Virtual Boozy Brunch and high-end online wine experiences. Clients of the latter get her cell phone number for wine advice. She says that she has "guys texting me pictures of bottles from Costco and asking, 'Is this a good price?' " You don't need to have Chang in your smartphone to find great wines at the supermarket. Below, sommeliers share their go-to choices, from "chicken wine" to Left Bank Bordeaux. along with strategies to find the right bottle for any budget or palate. Costco's Kirkland Signature line of wines / Photo by France Freeman Drink varieties you like For those wary of straying from their favorite grape, Chang suggests wines made from the same variety, but in different styles or from various producers and regions. "If you always buy Gallo Merlot [from California], why not try Merlot from other parts of the world?" she asks. Jienna Basaldu, sommelier at The Morris in San Francisco, lives about a half-mile from Whole Foods in Oakland. There, she recently spied bottles of Boya Sauvignon Blanc ($18) from Chile's Leyda Valley. "I've visited the winery in Chile, and oh my God, are the wines good," she says. Basaldu once had to blind-taste Leyda Valley Sauvignon Blanc for a competition, and she was the only person to identify the region. Her fellow competitors all guessed New Zealand. Matthew Pridgen has shopped at Texas-based H-E-B for 20 years. On his Sundays off, the Underbelly Restaurant Group wine director spends the day tending to smoked meats. "I love a good California Zinfandel with barbecue, and the Ridge Vineyards Three Valleys Zinfandel ($30) from Sonoma is a steal," says Pridgen. "It has ripe berry fruit and just the right amount of spice and oak to pair with perfectly cooked ribs." "[Kirkland Signature Pauillac is] one of the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations for under $25. That's a hard find anywhere." —Vanessa Price, author/sommelier Hey there, rosé For a lighter meal in the Texas heat, say watermelon salad with feta and basil, Pridgen chills a bottle of Domaine du Salvard Rosé ($18) from Cheverny in the Loire Valley. "It has a delicate red fruit and citrus nose, and mouthwatering acidity," he says. "The wine punches way over its price tag." If you don't know whether you want a rosé from the Loire, Long Island or Lodi, don't be afraid to ask for recommendations, even at supermarkets. "Any good grocer will have someone on hand to help and point you in the direction of something delicious and reasonably priced," says Pridgen. For an easy-going porch pounder, Vanessa Price suggests a can of Trader Joe's $1 Simpler Wines Rosé. The sommelier and co-author of recently released Big Macs and Burgundy: A Pairing Guide for the Real World, says it's the ideal pink drink to pair with an outdoor meal of "hot dogs, burgers, and corn on the cob. It's full of ripe strawberries, raspberries and match-sparked citrus." Pick up a four-pack, she says, and "don't knock it until you try it." Is there a bird on the bottle? Chang also buys inexpensive rosé for year-round drinking, and although it's not a hard-and-fast rule, she's found she digs bottles with birds on them. Mariano's carries Two Birds One Stone Rosé ($10), a 100% Cinsault with two birds on the label. It's a vin de France, a kind of catch-all for French wines that don't meet other Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) guidelines. Vin de France wines are often a great value, says Chang, and their labels list the grape varieties used, which helps demystify the juice. Belinda Chang at Mariano's / Photo by Light Leak Pictures, Tim Musho She's also "obsessed with chicken wine," a.k.a. La Vieille Ferme ($7). "I keep all three flavors stocked at my house: rosé, white and red," says Chang. A rotisserie chicken lover, she pairs the rosé with a simply grilled bird, the white with chicken and a white wine-mushroom sauce, and the red with a coq au vin-like dish. Sushi and wine night On nights when Price watches Schitt's Creek and eats take-out sushi from Wegmans, she leans into the liter format and Hugl Grüner Veltliner ($10). "As if the extra 250 milliliters of vino isn't a bonus enough, the wine is produced by a family-owned and -operated winery," she says. "And it has the signature Grüner profile of electric acidity and savory white pepper." Basaldu pours Broadbent Vinho Verde ($10) with Whole Foods sushi. At 9% alcohol by volume (abv) with pleasant acid and restrained fruit, she says it's a crowd-pleaser that's also great for day drinking. Spanish for value Los Angeles sommelier Eduardo Bolaños, furloughed recently from Mozza Group, worked for years previously in San Sebastián, Spain. He put that knowledge to use hosting a Basque pop-up, Búho Rouge, with his brother. Bolaños cooks a lot more at home these days. When there are lamb chops or steaks on the grill, he opens a bottle of Marqués de Riscal Reserva Rioja ($16) from Trader Joe's. Eduardo Bolaños / Photo by Joben Herrera Felix is also a fan, but she thinks its red fruit and notes of savory leather and cedar pair best with Hot Pockets and DiGiorno frozen pizza. While not Spanish, Basaldu prefers an $18 one-liter bottle of Berger Zweigelt from Austria with her frozen pizza. For a New World-style Spanish offering, Felix recommends the fresh, vibrant fruit of the Marqués de Cáceres Crianza ($15). And for pre-bagged Caesar salad, Felix throws Martín Códax Albariño ($13) into her Publix cart. "The creaminess goes with the lees character that Albariño sometimes has, and the salinity cuts through cheese," she says. Whole Foods wine department in Naperville, IL / Photo courtesy Whole Foods Private label wines Basaldu picked up a 2014 Criterion Collection Rioja Reserva ($17) recently, a private-label selection from Whole Foods. The chain buys wines from iconic regions like Chablis, New Zealand and Barolo, and releases them under its own label. In addition to stewed cranberry, plum, cherry and grilled meat notes, "it almost has a barbecue potato-chip character," says Basaldu. Price snags Kirkland Signature Pauillac ($23) every time she sees it at Costco. "It's one of the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations for under $25," she says. "That's a hard find anywhere." While many cheap Left Bank Bordeaux are stemmy and vegetal, the bottling "has the red currant and baking spice verve you expect from classic Pauillac," she says. Add some sparkle to your cart For non-Chandon bubbles and aperitif hour, Bolaños buys Mionetto Prosecco ($14) from Ralphs, a West Coast supermarket chain. He has worked in Italian restaurants for years, and says the Mionetto makes a brilliant Aperol spritz. Basaldu turns to Crémant, a French sparkling wine that's made like Champagne, but without the high price tag. At the start of the pandemic, she would put trout roe atop an omelet alongside a glass of Domaine Allimant-Laugner Crémant d'Alsace Rosé ($18), made from 100% Pinot Noir. "That would be our little treat for the week," she says.

Jean-Luc Colombo 2020 Cape Bleue Rosé (Mediterranée)

This invigorating rosé is a dusty-pink blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. Raspberry and watermelon flavors are zesty and cutting, edged by crushed mineral and salt as well as lingering, thirst-quenching acidity. It would be lovely on a summer afternoon but also drinks well year round. ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA RATING 90 PRICE $15,BUY NOW DESIGNATION Cape Bleue VARIETY Rosé APPELLATION Mediterranée, France Other, France WINERY Jean-Luc Colombo Print a Shelf Talker Label ALCOHOL 12.5% BOTTLE SIZE 750 ml CATEGORY Rose IMPORTER Taub Family Selections DATE PUBLISHED 7/1/2021 USER AVG RATING Not rated yet [Add Your Review]

Sweet and fortified wines: how to serve and preserve

They're among the best value, and most delicious, wines in the world. But there can still be uncertainty among wine lovers around how best to enjoy these classic and characterful styles. Anne Krebiehl MW asks the experts for their food-pairing tips Anne Krebiehl MWDecember 20, 2020 Sauternes and seafood can make a good pairing. Credit: Decanter Highlights Magazine: January 2021 Issue We all know what to do with white, red, rosé and sparkling - but what about sweet and fortified wines? These unmatched, flavour-laden classics - because that is what they are - are often overlooked simply because we're not sure how, when and with what to serve them. We have therefore consulted the experts to provide practical answers and some surprising food pairings. It turns out there are whole worlds to discover beyond the delicious but clichéd Port-Stilton and Sauternes-foie gras combos of yore. Nobly sweet wines Heidi Schröck, the Austrian doyenne of nobly sweet Ruster Ausbruch, as well as auslese, beerenauslese (BA) and trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) from Rust in Austria's Burgenland region - prefers to serve her wines between 12°C-14°C. She loves 'creative and unexpected' flavour combinations and signals this clearly on her labels. 'Ottolenghi recipes lend themselves excellently,' she says, but also suggests prosciutto with spätlese, aged Gouda with BA, chili-cheese sausages or lamb tagine with Ausbruch. She notes that desserts should not be too sweet - apple tart with rosemary would be perfect. Aline Baly, who runs Château Coutet in Barsac, Bordeaux, has perfected the art of serving sweet wines with every course. While her 'absolute favourite' pairing is lobster, she swears by shellfish starters, roast chicken for main and fresh strawberries for dessert. So don't restrict yourself to aperitif or dessert for these intense, golden wines. Baly avoids small dessert wine glasses and goes for white wine glasses instead. She recommends serving at 9°C-10°C, but suggests, 'a cooler temperature when wines are served with a spicy dish or a sweet dessert. Cooler is also better for very young and much older vintages. Middle-age wines can be served a couple of degrees warmer to allow the warm baking spices to express themselves.' Leftovers keep well when refrigerated. 'These wines are resilient,' Baly says. 'That you can keep a bottle open for more than a week is a fact unknown to many.' Schröck agrees: Auslesen last for 10 days, while concentrated Ausbruch can keep for up to three weeks. Matching Sauternes and Barsac with food Port Anthony Symington, brand manager for Symington Family Estates (maker of the Port brands Graham's, Warre's, Dow's and Cockburn's), says that only vintage Ports need be decanted. He distinguishes between the 'robust, youthful aromas of red fruits' of bottle-aged ruby and reserve Ports and the 'greater complexity, nut and raisin characteristics' of barrel-aged tawny Ports. Ruby and reserve 'should be served at room temperature and are delicious with cheese or dark chocolate'. An open bottle will last three to four weeks. Tawny Ports, on the other hand, should 'always be served slightly chilled from the fridge and are delicious with creamy desserts such as ice cream, crème brûlée, or a sneaky square of chocolate.' But he also suggests pairing a 10-year-old tawny with foie gras: 'The acidity cuts through the richness, and the sweetness complements it perfectly.' Tawny will last up to six weeks in the fridge. If you are lucky enough to have mature vintage Port, Symington says: 'Think creamy cheeses rather than Stilton, which can overpower these wonderful old wines. Fresh fruit is also an exceptional pairing.' Vintage is the only style you have to drink up quickly - it fades within three days. Cream & sweet Sherry Tim Holt, Bodegas Barbadillo's UK area director, lifts the lid on sweet Sherry styles - sweet oloroso and tooth-breakingly sweet Pedro Ximénez, or PX - and even resurrects the much-maligned cream Sherry. He says cream and oloroso should be served chilled and that any tulip-shaped wine glass will do. For PX, he counsels: 'Pour it on ice cream or try it in a tumbler glass over crushed ice. It works extremely well that way.' Bourbon vanilla ice cream is particularly delicious with PX. Holt says a classic PX pairing is the Asturian blue cheese Cabrales, but he has fond memories of raw Virginia Bay oysters, too. Hot Mexican habanero and Sichuan dishes are also recommended: 'The high sugar level has a balsamic effect, so it works for these extremely hot dishes.' Now you know what to do with that leftover turkey. Holt stays in Asia for cream Sherry and sweet oloroso, too: 'They go very well with some Chinese foods, specifically Peking duck and Shanghai cuisine generally.' While sweet oloroso lasts in the fridge for up to three months, PX does not need chilling, and is so sweet 'it can last from one year to the next.' Sherry and chocolate pairing ideas Madeira Even Madeira labelled 'dry' has some rounding sweetness, so Chris Blandy of Blandy's Madeira says: 'We suggest that dry and medium-dry styles (ie, Sercial and Verdelho) be served at 12°C, and medium-rich and rich styles (Bual and Malmsey) be served at 15°C-16°C.' None of the wines need decanting, and a tulip-shaped Port glass, or slender white wine glass is best. The good news is that 'Madeira is pretty much indestructible,' Blandy says, 'so simply put a stopper back in, stand the bottle upright and store in a cool, dark cupboard.' With these food combinations, however, it will be hard to resist these utterly complex and even otherworldly wines, especially when you have time to savour slowly. Blandy loves 'Comté with Sercial, roast chicken with Verdelho, foie gras with Bual'. The sweetest style, Malmsey, is a match made in heaven with Madeiran honey cake or bolo de mel - a moist, dark, spiced molasses cake. But who's to say that Christmas cake, Lebkuchen or mince pies won't work almost as well? Leftover lusciousness: use every drop At Quinta do Noval in the Douro Valley, cook Maria João turns leftover late bottled vintage or vintage Port into a fruity, sweet sauce for pancakes. For four people you need: 'A generous pat of butter, two tablespoons of brown sugar and a full glass of Port. You melt the butter with the sugar in a pan, when it is bubbling you add the Port. Using a wooden spoon, never stop stirring. Let the alcohol evaporate until the sauce thickens, about four minutes.' She adds that this is 'not an exact science and needs a little intuition'. Amontillado is a key ingredient in Bramdean pudding, a speciality passed down through generations at Davy's London pub The Boot & Flogger in Southwark - but oloroso will also work. For each pudding you need a small ramekin dish. Into this you crumble a digestive biscuit, top it with a few sultanas, pour over 30ml of Sherry followed by a layer of fresh custard. Once set, top with a layer of double cream.

All the Grapes Used in Champagne, Explained

You likely know that the three main grapes for Champagne are Chardonnay, as well as Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the only two red grapes in the region. The three varieties account for about 99% of the region's plantings. But did you know that there are actually seven permitted varieties that can be grown in Champagne? The other four are Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and Arbane, all white varieties that make up less than .3% of plantings. Chardonnay With the amount of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes found in wine shops and on restaurant menus, you wouldn't be wrong to think that Chardonnay is very widely planted. But of the main three, it's the least planted grape variety in Champagne, comprising just over 25,000 acres. In fact, Chardonnay-based Champagnes make up less than 5% of the category. Due to its mild flavor profile, Chardonnay can be influenced by winemaking decisions rather easily. Its inclusion can add acidity, structure and freshness. Getty Pinot Noir Pinot Noir is a staple in Champagne blends, and the most widely planted variety in the region, encompassing more than 32,000 acres. That's more than Pinot Noir's ancestral home, Burgundy. It's one of just two allowable red grapes in the region, along with Pinot Meunier. They're responsible for Blanc de Noirs Champagnes, or white wine made from black-skinned grapes. Pinot Noir, often described as delicate, brings body to the wine, that mouth-filling, structural texture. It also adds lovely aromatics to the blend. Pinot Meunier Though historically a blending grape, Pinot Meunier has become a star in its own right in recent years, with 100% Meunier Champagnes becoming increasingly more popular. Excellent examples include bottlings from José Michel, Moussé Fils and Salmon, which all bet most of their production on Meunier. Pinot Meunier brings those coveted red berry flavors to the fore, but it also balances the overall blend. About 26,000 acres of Meunier are planted in the region. Pinot Blanc Pinot Blanc is a white grape variety, but it's related to Pinot Noir. A color mutation makes certain genes that produce pigment inactive, which creates this white version of Pinot Noir. Its berry size and leaf shape have often been confused with Chardonnay, a distant cousin to Pinot Blanc. Pinot Blanc has always been grown in Burgundy and Champagne, but Alsace holds the largest plantings in France, with nearly 8,300 acres. Pinot Blanc brings a strong floral profile to the bouquet of the wine and some racy acidity to the palate. Getty Pinot Gris Also known by its historic name, Fromenteau, this pink-skinned grape is well known in still wine, but it's also one of the seven permissible varieties in Champagne. It's also a color mutation of Pinot Noir. When blended, Pinot Gris offers fruit and richness. A Beginner's Guide to Champagne Petit Meslier One of the most obscure varieties in Champagne, Petit Meslier has searing acidity that prevails in even the warmest of years. Like Pinot Blanc, it's a relative of Chardonnay. One of its "parents" is Gouais Blanc, also a parent of Chardonnay that crossed with another little-known variety, Savagnin. The flavors in Petit Meslier are often vegetal and can be reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc. A major bonus is that it's resistant to frost, the main enemy of Champagne vineyards. Arbane Arbane might be the rarest Champagne grape of all, with just 2.5 acres planted across France in 2006. It's a light yellow, very late-ripening grape with overbearing acidity that often requires a lot of attention for the low yields that it produces. The flavors are often herbal or green. Where are the "Forgotten Four" Now? In 1986, the L. Aubry Fils Champagne house prepared for its 1991 bicentennial by recreating wines that would have been made back in its early days. The idea was to use varieties like Arbane that had fallen out of favor. But it takes time for grapes to grow and produce viable fruit. It wasn't until 1994 that Aubry was able to harvest all seven permissible varieties. From those plantings came Le Nombre d'Or, or "The Golden Number." Getty Champagne Grapes and Climate Change Champagne's ever-warming climate is indicative of a global issue writ large. Champagne houses like Bollinger have begun to plant more of the four lesser-used varieties because of their naturally high acidity. That helps balance ripe fruit, the other structural component needed to age Champagne. Other producers balance sweeter fruit by reducing the dosage, or the sugar mixture added to Champagne after disgorgement. A Brut Champagne has less than 12 grams per liter of dosage, but as temperatures continue to climb, dosage levels are being reduced or even eliminated. These zero-dosage bottlings are now incredibly popular with the global Champagne cognoscenti. Some producers, like AR Lenoble, block malolactic conversion to retain acidity. Malolactic conversion, affectionately known as "malo," is a process where the sharp malic acid that exists in grapes is converted to a creamier-feeling lactic acid. Many Champagnes employ this because of the abundance of acidity in the wine, but rising temperatures are lowering acid levels. These are just a few of the methods that producers experiment with to preserve Champagne's history and flavor. But they certainly won't be the only ones.

How We Rated Some of the Internet's Top-Selling Wine Brands

The Wine Enthusiast team blind tastes and reviews around 25,000 wines every year. These range from small-production bottlings to major releases from global brands and everything in between. We were curious to see how our scores stacked up against real-world buying habits, so we looked at some of the top-selling bottles on online marketplace Vivino. In an effort to help you decide which to purchase, or just to see a ranking of the internet's most popular bottles in one place, here are our most recent ratings and reviews of current offerings from some of online retail's most in-demand brands. The Top-Selling Wines on Drizly, and How We Rated Them Top-selling wines and how they scored Henri Bourgeois 2018 Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France); $13, 85 points. This soft, easy, Sauvignon Blanc emphasizes fruit and freshness. Acidity and bright crispness are smoothed by the rounded aftertaste. Drink now. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. -Roger Voss Barefoot NV Moscato (California); $7, 86 points. Very fruity, flavorful and semisweet, this light-bodied and low-alcohol wine gushes floral and lychee fruit aromas, sweet honey and honeydew melon flavors and soft texture. Best Buy. -Jim Gordon Beringer 2018 Founder's Estate Pinot Noir (California); $9, 86 points. A strong vein of oak spices gives this full-bodied wine an almost sweet effect, as cinnamon and vanilla fill the aroma and flavors. It is broad and fairly soft in texture. Best Buy. -J.G. Lapis Luna 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi); $13, 86 points. Rich, round and darkly fruity, this wine offers extra ripeness and soft tannins for a very mouthfilling, almost sweet effect.-J.G. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Josh Cellars 2018 Bourbon Barrel Aged Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (California); $19, 88 points. This potent, full-bodied wine is moderately tannic, nicely concentrated and shows some good oak character in the cinnamon, vanilla and nutmeg nuances that come out with time in the glass. -J.G. Château d'Arcins 2015 Haut-Médoc; $24, 89 points. This wine boasts dry, old-school tannins that bracket the black currant fruit on the palate. It will soften as it matures to deliver crisp fruit and cleaner tannins. Drink from 2023. Luneau USA Inc. -R.V. Decoy 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $25, 89 points. Well-integrated fruit and subtle oak flavors give this medium- to full-bodied wine a nice sense of balance and composure that's enjoyable to sip. It brings out black cherry, cinnamon and a touch of vanilla that are tasty and lingering. -J.G. Abandon 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County-Napa County); $30, 90 points. An element of roundness, almost sweetness, gives this wine a smooth drinkability despite a high tannin level. Deep indulgent blueberry and blackberry-jam flavors are accented by baking spices, cloves and cedar. Best through 2023. -J.G. Bogle 2018 Juggernaut Cabernet Sauvignon (California); $20, 90 points. Opulent black-fruit flavors are well matched by mint, chocolate and cedar accents in this full-bodied, velvet-textured wine. Layered and mouthfilling, it offers abundant soft tannins to keep it appetizing. -J.G. Duckhorn 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley); $78, 90 points. This is a soft, rounded and appealing red, juicy in blackberry and dark cherry. Ripe tannins add to the richness and lush palate, finishing on accents of clove and toasted oak. -Virginie Boone Gloria Ferrer NV Sonoma Brut Méthode Champenoise Sparkling (Carneros); $22, 90 points. A rich, exuberant nose of apple and sea spray leads to a steely palate built up by nervy, focused acidity. Accents of oyster shell and earth permeate the midpalate in this Pinot Noir-dominant sparkler. -V.B. Groth 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville); $65, 93 points. Blended with 9% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, this Cabernet opens with earthy aromas of tar, sage and cedar. It expands on the palate to show an elegant structure of finessed, supple tannins alongside layers of clove and cinnamon atop ripe red and black berries. Editors' Choice. -V.B. We Recommend:Fusion Air Universal Wine Glasses48-Bottle Evolution Series Wine Refrigerator Black Stainless Door Austin Hope 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles); $56, 95 points. Quite dark in the glass, this reliable crowd-pleaser begins with hearty aromas of black currant, black plum, lush oak and caramel, accented by a hint of olive and loads of clove and nutmeg. The mouthfeel is hearty and rich, with just enough tannic weight to balance the creamy black-cherry, caramel and chocolate-ice-cream flavors, which lead to an oaky finish. -Matt Kettmann Emeritus 2017 Hallberg Ranch Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $45, 95 points. With Winemaker David Lattin now at the helm, this vintage packs a punch of grace and power. Rose, lavender and earth tones accent a juicy black-cherry core, with crisp acidity sitting alongside a hint of nutmeg. -V.B.

The Differences Between Horizontal and Vertical Tastings

You may have heard the phrases "vertical tasting" and "horizontal tasting" at wineries and in industry circles. But what makes them different? What is the benefit of each? We asked three wine professionals to clarify. What is a vertical tasting? "A vertical tasting is the same wine from different years, typically from the same producer," says Ashley Brandner, director of hospitality at Gamble Family Vineyards in Napa, California. The brand produces a red blend called Paramount. Each year, depending on weather and other factors, it's a little different. To taste it over different vintages "really showcases the expression of the winery itself," she says. Another way to conduct a vertical tasting is to try bottlings from different wineries in the same region, says Evan Goldstein, MS, president of Full Circle Wine Solutions and Master the World. One might look at Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa, or Malbecs from Argentina over several vintages. When possible, set up a vertical tasting with wines that span multiple years, or even decades. The greater the time difference, the more meaningful the results will be, especially if the aim is to see how the wine will age, says Goldstein. What is a horizontal tasting? The most common option is to choose a single vintage and compare wines from different estates or wineries in a region, says Kyungmoon Kim, MS, founder of KMS Imports LLC. "This allows you to see how each winery performed under the same conditions of the year," he says. "You're comparing winemaking style and the little details of each winery's practices." Slow Wine, Explained In the other type of horizontal tasting, sometimes called a side-by-side tasting, organizers will present wines made from the same grape, but from different places around the world, says Kim. For example, a Pinot Noir tasting might pull samples from Burgundy, Oregon, Sonoma and New Zealand. Although many organizers stick to wines from the same year, they can come from vintages a year or two apart. What do vertical tastings show about the wines? "The benefit of doing a vertical tasting would be you're really diving in deep with one particular producer, and you can see the evolution of the wines and see how it changes over time," says Kim. "You can see the consistency of the winery and what they're trying to achieve. You can really understand their philosophy." Vertical tastings are also an interesting way to see how climate and other conditions affect a wine—for example, what it will look like in hotter vintages versus cooler ones, or in wet years as opposed to dry ones, said Goldstein. Wineries sometimes organize vertical tastings of their library wines to see how products are performing. They can learn from the winemaking techniques or choices made in previous years. Serious collectors, especially those who have favorites chateaus, may host vertical tastings to gain a sense of how wines are developing, says Goldstein. Let's say that a group has invested in a case of the same wine from an estate in Saint-Émilion each year. If the group opens one bottle from each vintage, that could help determine which wines need to age or are ready to enjoy now. Getty Why do people do horizontal tastings? People with wines from the same region can gain an impression of a particular place at a point in time, says Kim. "It's most helpful if you're trying to paint the picture of what a particular vintage will be like, either in a specific area or even around the world," he says. Horizontal tastings conducted with wines from the same grape and from different regions can develop a better understanding of each region's expression. The Differences Between High- and Low-Elevation Wine "Horizontal tastings are a great educational tool that allows people who are just getting into wine to broaden their scope and understanding of the different wine regions of the world—and especially the different grapes that are grown in those wine regions," says Brandner. That ability to learn something new is the best reason to attend either a vertical or horizontal tasting. "Not one opinion is correct, but it's a very interactive way to learn from each other," says Goldstein. "The beauty of drinking wines is all about sharing wines and sharing opinions."

What Does 'Bitter' Mean in Wine?

One of the five basic taste profiles, bitter is defined as being sharp, unsweet and pungent. But what about bitterness in wine? What does it mean for wine to be bitter, and could it be a good thing? First, some brief science. Studies show that humans have several bitter taste receptors in our tastebuds, distributed over our tongues and palate. In nature, bitterness has often signaled that something is wrong with what we're consuming, and is commonly found in poisonous or nondigestible plants. As a result, we're often less likely to enjoy intense bitter flavors. Several other compounds in food are known to have a bitter flavor, like caffeine, and phenols and flavonoids found in things like coffee, arugula and cocoa powder. We don't all process bitterness the same way. It depends on our taste receptors and psychological associations with a particular food or drink. Bitter flavors are known to stimulate the appetite and prepare the digestive tract, which is why an aperitif is such a popular pre-dinner sip. WHAT DOES 'EXTRACTION' MEAN IN WINE? Often, when people detect bitterness in wine, they are actually reacting to its tannic structure. "When I think of tannic wines that are sort of bitter, I think of newer Bordeaux, for example," says Sarah Goler, co-owner of natural wine bar Tannat in New York City. Tannins are polyphenols found in plants, like in the skin, stems and seeds of grapes. Red wine is more likely to have higher tannins and to taste bitter. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Goler says that tannins create a drying sensation in our mouths when they interact with taste receptors, which causes a bitter sensation. Wines that aren't floral or fruity have more pronounced bitter notes, which can make them taste harsher. As a wine gets older, its tannins tend to break down due to oxidation or other chemical reactions. This can tone down its bitterness. But, a high-tannin wine isn't necessarily a bad thing. Goler has noticed that orange wine, which tends to taste bitter in comparison to other wines made from white grapes, has been popular at Tannat's market. "Those are wines that have skin contact, so they've been aged on the skins and seeds, which are the same parts of the grape that you get tannins from in red wine," she says. WHAT ARE TANNINS, REALLY? The other reason that we might perceive wine to be bitter is unripe fruit, says Paula De Pano, beverage and service director of Fearrington House Inn in Pittsboro, North Carolina. This doesn't mean that the grapes used for the wine were actually unripe. They were likely grown in cooler climates, "so they don't achieve the same type of brightness as something coming from California or in hotter parts of Australia," says De Pano. Examples include Sancerre, Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige, and Austrian Grüner Veltliner. Similar to tannins, the perception of unripe fruit is a matter of taste. "Unripe fruit normally has a good amount of acidity to it," says De Pano. While you may not enjoy a bitter-forward glass of wine, it's a counterpoint to sweetness, says David Jelinek, winemaker for Faust Wines. Bitterness might enhance those floral or sweet notes, he says, but it should balance the wine, not stand out. Sometimes, how you receive bitter notes depends on how you've developed your palate. If you typically drink smooth, low-tannin wines, one with higher tannins might be a shock, says Jelinek. If you want to embrace bitterness, De Pano suggests starting with Grüner Veltliner. While slightly bitter, it's a riper style of wine. "Despite the fact that it has a bitter finish to it, that ripeness tapers off that initial perception that this wine is bitter," says De Pano.

A Six-Bottle Master Class to Pinot Grigio

One of the world's most popular white wine grapes, Pinot Grigio is also known as Pinot Gris. The name means "gray" Pinot in Italian or French, respectively, and refers to the pinkish-ash hue of the berries, which mutated in France from the red grape Pinot Noir. Both Italy and France produce the variety, notably in Northern Italy and Alsace, France. Due to its popularity and versatility, the grape has spread around the world to areas that include California, Oregon, Australia and New Zealand. Pinot Grigio, as most Americans know it, can be sublime or insipid. As consumer awareness of the grape grew in the 1990s, it became a victim of its own success. Italian producers often emphasized volume over quality to keep up with demand. Bottles of simple, easy-drinking wine flooded shelves across the U.S., which diluted the grape's once-heralded reputation. Yet, Pinot Gris/Grigio is one of the world's most popular grapes precisely because it's capable of a range of styles and flavors, depending on where it's grown and the winemaker's vision. Its wines can refresh on a hot day with their light and zesty lemon character, or they can complement food when voluptuous and concentrated. Tasting flights are the best way to recognize those differences. Begin your Pinot Gris/Grigio exploration with three groupings: French Pinot Gris versus Italian Pinot Grigio; cool-climate versus warm-climate Pinot Gris/Grigio; and high-volume versus small-production Pinot Grigio. As you taste, record the aromas, flavors and textures you experience, then compare notes between wines. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Of course, you'll need to pick up a few bottles, so we've included tips on what to seek. If you can't find exact matches, ask your favorite retailer to recommend alternatives. GETTY French Pinot Gris vs. Italian Pinot Grigio Though most Americans think of Pinot Grigio as Italian, the grape originated in France. It has a long history in Alsace that dates to the 16th century. Alsatian winemakers consider Pinot Gris one of four noble white grapes which they label on bottles. One joy of Pinot Gris from Alsace is the lifetime of discoveries it provides. Producers dabble with different styles, and each wine is reflective of site, vintage and winemaking technique. While Alsatians promote their dry expressions, Pinot Gris is capable of extraordinary off-dry and sweet styles, especially from designated Grand Cru vineyards. The sunny, dry climate of Alsace accumulates sugars for sweet wines like late-picked Vendanges Tardives or Séleccions des Grains Nobles. French Pinot Gris vs. Italian Pinot Grigio Flight Wine 1: Seek out a dry Pinot Gris from Alsace, France.Wine 2: For Italian Pinot Grigio, the most iconic examples come from Alto Adige. To compare Alsace with Italy, however, look for dry wines. Due to climate and later harvests, Alsace Pinot Gris generally offers more alcohol, body and weight than most Northern Italian Pinot Grigio. They are wines of substance and, at their long-lived best, gravitas. Generally and stylistically, Gris and Grigio is so different that New World producers often label their wines based on which style they seek to emulate. Gris has complex, earthy aromas and flavors of orchard fruit, honeysuckle and spice, as well as flint and smoke from volcanic sites. In Italy, Pinot Grigio grows everywhere, but it flourishes in the north. The cooler climate around mountainous Alto Adige, and to a lesser extent, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and the Veneto, produces lean, bright and focused wines with citrus and mineral characteristics. Many are meant to enjoy in their youth. A SIX-BOTTLE MASTER CLASS TO SAUVIGNON BLANC Cool-Climate vs. Warm-Climate Pinot Gris/Grigio To compare cool-climate wines to their warm-climate contemporaries has long been to position Old World against New World, which pits Europe versus the Americas, Australia and New Zealand. However, there are plenty of New World regions with low enough average temperatures during growing season to be classified as cool climate. Elevation also plays a key role. Winemakers in warm regions often seek high-elevation vineyard sites to benefit from cooling mountainous winds and significant diurnal temperature swings. Climate matters because it informs which grapes will thrive and the subsequent styles that can be made. Two New World regions that grow great Pinot Gris are Willamette Valley, Oregon; and Marlborough, New Zealand. Cool- vs. Warm-Climate Pinot Gris/Grigio Flight Wine 1: A Pinot Gris from Oregon showcases a cool-climate version.Wine 2: A bottle from the Central Coast in California will show the riper side of the variety. From Friuli, search for wines from hillside vineyards in Collio and Friuli Colli Orientali, the two most acclaimed DOCs. Collio, near Slovenia, makes bright, fruity wines. Friuli Colli Orientali, at the foothills of the Dolomites, produces Pinot Grigio of finesse. Gris from cooler climates have higher acidity and more citrus and floral character. A backbone of freshness lends long life to wines that can evolve in the bottle for years. Like Alsace, New Zealand is sunny, but cool. The sunshine allows grapes to achieve high levels of ripeness, yet not diminish their acidity. Consequently, winemakers often make Gris in a peachy, fragrant off-dry style similar to those from Alsace. They leave a dollop of honeyed sweetness for roundness and depth. By contrast, warmer regions in Australia and California produce even riper, fleshier wines. They possess higher alcohol and tropical fruit flavors like melon, pineapple and papaya. PINOT GRIGIO VINEYARD IN SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA / GETTY High-Volume vs. Small-Production Pinot Grigio High-volume Pinot Grigio refers to wine made in large quantities from vineyards farmed for large yields. Winemaking is done by formula to achieve consistency year after year, with production completed generally in large stainless-steel tanks. The goal is widespread appeal, accessible pricing and youthful consumption. Most commercial Pinot Grigio from Italy comes from the broader appellations in the Veneto region of Venezia Giulia Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) and Delle Venezie Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC). These wines are crisp, light in body and have an austere lemon-lime character, a result of short fermentation times in temperature-controlled tanks. Such quick winemaking, required to fulfill commercial contracts, gives little chance for wines to develop deep or complex flavor profiles. By contrast, Pinot Grigio made in smaller batches often strives to emphasize terroir, vintage and craftsmanship. Small, quality-minded producers in Alto Adige, in the mountainous north, and sections of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, or Friuli, for short, make exceptional Pinot Grigio of complexity and ageability. High-volume vs. Small-Production Pinot Grigio Flight Wine 1: For a selection that is likely to be a high-volume Pinot Grigio, look for wines $15 and under from Venezia Giulia or Delle Venezie.Wine 2: For a Pinot Grigio that is more likely to be a small-production offering, choose a wine that's $20 or more from Alto Adige, Collio or Friuli Colli Orientali. From Friuli, search for wines from hillside vineyards in Collio and Friuli Colli Orientali, the two most acclaimed DOCs. Collio, near Slovenia, makes bright, fruity wines. Friuli Colli Orientali, at the foothills of the Dolomites, produces Pinot Grigio of finesse. Winemaking standards in both Alto Adige and Friuli are high. Typically, grapes are hand-harvested from low-yielding vines, which means the fruit has more flavor and avoids early oxidation from bruising. Across all stages of the production process, from viticulture to skin-contact and barrel-aging techniques, wines are handled with care. It gives them greater dimension, texture and vitality. How do you know what kind of Pinot Grigio you're buying? Price is the first indicator. Small-production wines will typically cost a bit more, starting in the low $20s up to $50 for well-known producers in Friuli.

What is Amarone wine? - ask Decanter

Amarone della Valpolicella is one of Italy's most famous styles of wine, but where and how is it made? All you need to know, including details of recent vintages and classic food matches... Ellie DouglasJune 3, 2021 Ask Decanter Amarone della Valpolicella is a wine made with partially dried grapes in Valpolicella, Veneto, north-east Italy. There are three geographical sub zones; Classico, Valpantena and 'Est', the extended zone. Amarone wine map. Credit: Decanter/ Maggie Nelson 'Each of the three geographical zones has its own identity,' said Michael Garner, in the 2018 Decanter Italy supplement. 'In broad strokes: Amarone from Classico tends to be the most elegant and aromatic, versions from the Valpantena are generally lighter and fruitier, while the so-called 'extended' zone (beyond Classico and Valpantena, bordering on the Soave) tends to produce richer, more muscular wines with a higher alcohol level.' Amarone: The Facts Amarone is produced throughout the Valpolicella denomination (including the sub-zones of Classico and Valpantena) from grapes dried until at least 1 December following the vintage and fermented out to a minimum of 14% alcohol. The wine may contain a maximum of between 12g/L and about 16g/L of sugar (depending on its total alcohol content), though 5-7g/L is more common. The wine is aged for a minimum of two years from the year following the vintage or for four years (beginning in November) for Riserva. In-depth: See our Amarone buying guide Grape varieties There are a few permitted grape varieties in Amarone wine - the main ones being Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella, plus some lesser known ones. 'The aromas and flavours of Amarone are determined invariably by Corvina - and to a lesser extent Corvinone,' said Garner. 'Elegance and perfume (especially a telltale note of freshly ground black pepper) are hallmarks of the former, while Corvinone has deeper colour, more tannins and tobacco-like aromas.' 'Some growers talk up the current favourite Oseleta despite the low ratio of solid-to-liquid (skins and pips to must), which makes the variety a less suitable candidate for appassimento.' Oak ageing 'Amarone spends a minimum of two years in wood, though can remain there for up to nine or 10 in rare cases (Quintarelli, Zyme). Barrels vary from French and Slavonian oak through to chestnut, cherry and even acacia,' said Garner. 'Newer, smaller barrels, usually oak, are commonly used and have a distinct effect on both aroma and texture (mouthfeel) in particular, though there seems to be a return to the more subtle and seasoned notes promoted by larger and older wood.' History Over the first decade of the new millennium, the number of bottles produced annually tripled and now averages above 18 million. Amarone's traditional role as vino da meditazione (a post-prandial to be sipped while discussing the finer things in life) was called into question. High alcohol and sugar levels make the wine a tricky match with food and, given the massive upsurge in production, Amarone had to find a place at table to keep pace with the consumer's changing lifestyle. Many producers went back to the drawing board: the rediscovery of long-forgotten grape varieties; more 'complete' fermentations heading towards a drier style; experiments with different-sized barrels and wood types, etc - all aimed at reshaping the wine's identity. Others dug their heels in and remained faithful to the time-honoured ways. Indeed some continued to accept the presence of a small proportion of the fungus in its 'larval' or nascent form, ie: before full sporulation. As such, Muffa nobile or noble rot can confer expansive and developed aromas of macerated fruits plus the honeyed notes typical of botrytised wines and, in addition, boosts glycerol levels, enhancing the wine's velvety texture. Three key styles The upshot of this activity accounts for the surprisingly wide spectrum of aromas and flavours typical of today's Amarone. Three styles dominate current production. A simpler version usually with less wood ageing showcases its friendlier side. Many belieeve that Amarone is best drunk by its 10th birthday when the wine is still all about roundness, softness and harmony. Smaller batches of a grower's very finest fruit are fermented separately and often given extra wood ageing; this 'premium' or Riserva version is capable of lasting for up to 20 years or so in bottle. Finally, the more 'modernist' interpretation of Amarone embraces a more concentrated, longer-lived and less oxidative style of wine through the use of controlled appassimento and mainly smaller (225L or 500L) new oak barrels. Appassimento Appassimento is the method of partially drying out the grapes, which are then slowly pressed, and slowly fermented, to make Amarone della Valpolicella. 'Amarone is about winemaking as much as anything else,' said Susan Hulme MW, in our 2017 panel tasting. 'Decisions around drying the grapes, length of appassimento, and time fermenting on skins make dramatic differences to style and quality.' What is the difference between ripasso and appassimento? Amarone wine & food 'Why does pairing Amarone with food present such a challenge?,' asked Aldo Fiordelli in a recent Decanter feature. He argues that given the complex nature of Amarone it needs rich foods to level with. 'The complexity of the blend, with oak ageing over at least two years, though often up to nine or 10 for top examples, suggests Amarone ought to be matched with complex recipes,' says Fiordelli before offering up some examples of good and bad food pairings. Avoid fatty foods and peppery heat is the advice and look towards classic Veneto dishes such as pumpkin soup and roast chicken liver or 'lasagnette', hand-made egg pasta noodles seasoned with meat sauce. Dive more into this and discover Fiordelli's top Amarone della Valpolicella Classico wines to try right here. Amarone: Know your vintages 2016 - 2016 was a relative relief for growers: they were spared the extremes of wet and cold versus drought and heat felt in 2014 and 2017. After slightly below-average temperatures in July and August, September brought ideal weather leading up to harvest. The 2016 vintage should provide plenty to revel in. 2015 - A long, hot and dry summer gave big, ripe and rich wines with good phenolic maturity. Potentially excellent wines which mainly need keeping. 2014 - A notoriously wet and cool year: while many wines are perfectly drinkable, they are not great either. To be drunk young. 2013 - A cooler than average summer was followed by a warm and sunny autumn. The wines are particularly aromatic and the best show real finesse. Drink from 2020. 2012 - Weather conditions turned patchy after an intensely hot summer. These big, generous wines are beginning to drink well. 2011 - A highly touted vintage producing balanced wines which are approaching their peak. Drink or keep for three to five years. 2010 - A cooler than average vintage: while perhaps lacking flesh, the wines have good aromas and are mainly fully mature. Got a question for Decanter's experts? Email us: [email protected] or on social media with #askDecanter. Find more wine questions answered here.

Is alcohol in wine rising? New data released

Average alcohol levels in fine red wines from Bordeaux to California have risen since the 1990s, shows data compiled by Liv-ex, but the picture is complex. Chris MercerJune 29, 2021 Credit: Photo by Ashley Byrd on Unsplash (Unsplash License) Ask Decanter News Home Fresh figures from Liv-ex have shed more light on trends for alcohol levels in fine wine in the past 30 years. Red wines from Bordeaux, Tuscany, Piedmont and California all had higher alcohol levels on average in the decade between 2010 and 2019 than they did in the 1990s, said Liv-ex, which describes itself as a global marketplace for the trade. Burgundy also showed an increase, although it was relatively marginal. Photo and chart credit: Liv-ex. Liv-ex began recording reported abv levels last year and has now done so for 35,000 wines. It said 20,000 of those have been verified by its warehouse team, who have checked bottle labels. 'This is a remarkable snapshot of significant changes taking place in some of the world's most important fine wine regions,' said Justin Gibbs, Liv-ex cofounder and director. 'These wines analysed represent wines traded on Liv-ex, a broad range of mostly fine wines.' Liv-ex said its data has helped to quantify a phenomenon that has often been a talking point in the industry and beyond. However, not every region cited by Liv-ex has seen alcohol rising consistently in wine since 1990. Alongside relatively little change in Burgundy, California showed a sharp rise between 2000 and 2009 but then a slight drop-off in average abv levels after that, for instance. It's hard to generalise for all producers within regions, too, as Liv-ex noted in its report. Alcohol levels in wine have generally been linked to sugar content in the grapes, as noted by a 2011 paper published by the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE). Weather conditions during a particular vintage may affect alcohol levels in the final wine, and so can a plethora of stylistic decisions taken by individual winemakers in the vineyard and in the cellar. The AAWE paper noted a 'substantial rise' in sugar levels in California wine grapes since 1980. It discussed the possibility of this relating to global warming induced by climate change, but also whether trends for bolder, riper styles were influencing wineries' decision-making. At Napa Valley's highly regarded Corison Winery, known for a more restrained, elegant style, co-owner and winemaker Cathy Corison said that, for her, alcohol is not a concern per se but 'more of an indicator of all the other things that happen as grapes ripen'. She told Decanter, I pick relatively early at moderate sugar levels because I value the bright red and blue end of the Cabernet flavour spectrum [such as cherries and blueberries].' Despite the spectre of climate change, Corison said she hasn't found this style harder to achieve. 'At Corison winery we spend a lot of time out in the vineyard managing the canopy to ensure that we can pick fully ripe Cabernet at lower sugars. 'As for the future, if we continue to enjoy cold, foggy nights and mornings, as an extension of the San Francisco Bay, the Napa Valley will have the grapes it needs to produce balanced wines.' Balance is often a key term in wine. Andrew Jefford, award-winning writer and co-chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards, noted in a 2018 article that it is possible to find brilliantly constructed styles at the richer, bolder end of the spectrum where everything is still in balance. There are good and bad examples of such rich wines, of course, but 'any principled objection to an alcohol level of 14.5% or more is illogical unless such drinkers systematically avoid fortified wines (15.5%- 22%) and spirits', wrote Jefford for Decanter magazine. At the same time, the wine world has also seen a trend towards low and no alcohol wines in recent years, too.

Yes, You Can Drink Dessert Wine with Dinner

Get sweet on pairing these bottles with savory food. Written by Kelly Magyarics Updated 07/22/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Laura Sant If you aren't already a fan of dessert wines, you may be tempted to shun the entire category as being "too sweet" to enjoy at the end of the meal, let alone during it. As the name implies, these wines pack a higher sugar level than your garden-variety chardonnay or cabernet, but the best also have secret weapons up their sleeves, including lively acidity and nuanced, layered flavors. This means they can take on dishes that come before you tuck into a gooey molten chocolate cake or rustic French apple tart. Keep It Balanced When it comes to selecting dessert wines with dinner, you can use the same philosophy you'd use with dry wines, says Jennifer Foucher, the head sommelier at Fiola in Washington, D.C. "Pairings are about balance," she says. "If something is spicy, the sweetness cools it down, [and] if a dish contains nuts, a sweet wine with a nuttier profile is similar yet also a contrast." She loves to serve chestnut soup with nutty oloroso sherry and fiery Szechuan noodles with German auslese riesling, a dessert wine produced with hand-selected grapes affected with botrytis, a "noble rot" that causes them to become raisinated, concentrated and distinct. And it's really the accompaniment to the dish, such as the sauce or seasoning, that you're complementing or contrasting with the wine. "Heightened sugar levels [in dessert wines] can be a great foil for salt, fat and sour flavors found in food," says Braithe Tidwell, the sommelier and beverage director of Brennan's in New Orleans. Classic dessert wine pairings that can bookend a meal are a foie gras first course with sauternes, a botrytized wine from Bordeaux, and port served with an after-dinner cheese plate. But she believes they can easily be served throughout the course of a meal. Moelleux, another wine affected by botrytis that hails from France's Loire Valley, works well with goat cheese pasta, she says. Remember that a little of these wines goes a long way, however. Tidwell recommends a three-ounce pour—just enough to make it through each bite of the dish. "This is a great way to try something new ... without committing to a whole glass," she says. For fortified wines like port, sherry or madeira, in which brandy or a neutral spirit is added before or after fermentation, Foucher believes two ounces are plenty. Pour Some Port Port, arguably the world's most famous sweet wine, is made by adding brandy to fermenting wine, killing the yeast, halting fermentation and upping the ABV. And while it goes amazingly well with a chunk of high-quality dark chocolate, it can flex its muscles elsewhere during the meal. "Port has a weight, richness and umami quality that other wines, particularly dry wines, don't have," says Gregory Doody, the president & CEO of Vineyard Brands, which includes Warre's port in its portfolio. Because port is an intensely flavored wine, it's best matched with equally flavored and weighty dishes, as anything delicate assuredly will be overpowered, says Doody. It also tends to work better with complementary rather than contrasting pairings. Fruity ruby port is great with cheeses like Stilton and Gorgonzola; the caramel and nutty notes in tawny port work with foie gras, duck and veal; and complex LBV and vintage port is amazing with beef or venison. But don't overlook white port, an outlier and recent addition to the category, which is lovely with olives and Marcona almonds as an aperitivo or served with smoked fish. Ice Wine Is Cool If there's one category of dessert wine that can take you from hors d'oeuvres to appetizer to entree and beyond, it might just be Canadian ice wine. Grapes frozen on the vines at -10 C are harvested in the middle of the night; the water in the grapes freezes, but its sugars and solids do not. The resulting wines are sweet, with a gorgeous purity of fruit, balanced vibrant acidity and a clean finish that goes with sweet, salty and savory dishes and cleanses the palate in-between bites. "You're going to get the same flavor profiles that you would from a table wine [made] with the same grape varietals; they're just going to be more concentrated and with added sweetness," says Kayla Mudford, the estate chef for Inniskillin winery. This means you truly can treat ice wine as a table wine. Try an Inniskillin riesling ice wine with a lobster bisque or pear and bleu cheese pizza, Vidal ice wine with pâté, Gold Vidal ice wine with French onion soup or smoky pork barbecue, and cabernet franc ice wine with filet mignon. Randi Dufour, the vice president of luxury export sales for Arterra Wines Canada, which operates wine brands including Inniskillin and Jackson-Triggs, also cites the ingredients in Asian cuisine as having a particular affinity for Canadian ice wine, including pork with citrus, poultry with chiles and soy, miso, or mirin marinades. All should be served well-chilled in two-ounce pours. And if you're still not sold, Dufour suggests a change in semantics. "Maybe we all need to stop calling it a dessert wine and refer to it as a sweet or 'rich' wine," he says, because "if you pass on dessert, the opportunity to taste this liquid gold is gone." Know What Won't Work So is there any savory dish a dessert wine can't handle? Even though you might be tempted to offset the heat from the thin slices of jalapeño that sit atop hamachi crudo, Foucher doesn't recommend raw or strongly flavored seafood. "Sweet and ocean/fishy flavors don't sit well together," she says. Tidwell steers clear of extremes like bitter or lean dishes but says these bottles are incredibly versatile otherwise. "The more you play with them, the more you'll be pleasantly surprised," she says.

What Does 'Dry Red Wine' Mean?

If you work in the wine business, the phrase "dry red wine" is pretty straightforward. It's any red wine that lacks discernible sweetness. But if you buy, sell or serve wine, you'll realize that everybody has their own definition of dry. Some people use the term when they're looking for a gravelly, earthy, smoky wine sans a whiff of fruit, like certain old vine Zinfandels. Other times, they want a bottle of young, brawny Cabernet Sauvignon that sucks the moisture from their mouth. "It's definitely a tricky term," says Anita Sahi, who co-owns Copia Vineyards in Paso Robles, California. "You have a consumer equating dry with a drying feeling in your mouth. In the wine world, that sensation is actually tannin or astringent." If you buy, sell or serve wine, you'll realize that everybody has their own definition of dry. Vintner Rosalind Manoogian says the notes of bright raspberry and plum in Fogcrest Vineyard's Pinot Noir surprise some visitors to the estate. She explains that the flavors are an expression of the terroir in the Russian River Valley. "If we do our job right, you should taste some fruit," says Manoogian, even in a dry wine that doesn't have any sugar. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Another problem is that "dry" can mean so many things in English. Dating back to the 14th century, the Old English and Germanic word dry has meant lacking moisture, devoid of humor, or boring and dull, according to Etymology Online. By the 1620s, it also meant a place where you can't get any alcohol. It wasn't until around 1700 that dry also signified alcohol that doesn't have any sweetness. Except if you're talking about Champagnes and sparkling wines, where dry means sort of sweet. Is it any wonder people are confused? How Red Wine Is Made The way out of that maze is taking a little time to ask questions patiently and explain what dry actually means in the world of red wine. Kathy Gordon, the lead tasting room host at Three Sticks at the Adobe, has a foolproof way to define the concepts of dry, sweet and fruity in its Pinot Noirs. "One of my analogies for explaining that is fruit tea," she says. "Like with orange Pekoe tea, it's fruity, but not sweet. Then if you add honey, it's sweet and fruity. I like analogies with things they are familiar with. It helps cement that idea in their mind." Explaining wine's journey from grapes to glass also helps, says Sahi. All wine starts as sweet grape juice. During fermentation, the yeast eats the sugar and converts it into alcohol. Once the yeast has eaten all the sugar, the fermentation is over, and the wine is considered dry. Dry wine has benefits for winemakers, says Steve Millier, director of winemaking at Ironstone Vineyards. "As a winemaker, we're always looking for dry because that means it's more stable," he says. "We're making sure that the wines ferment out to dryness. If a wine retains a little residual sweetness, it's more susceptible to bacteria." Sugar High: A Quick Guide to Sweet Red Wine The more that people know about how wine is made, where flavors come from and the shades of difference between dry, fruity and sweet, the more comfortable they'll be talking about what they're tasting and trying new styles. "I really think wine should be a journey," says Manoogian. "When you educate people that way, you empower them to not think that you have to have one answer."

What Does 'Extraction' Mean in Wine?

If you've ever heard a winemaker wax poetic about "extraction" and been lost amid stanzas on fermentation and polymerization, you're not alone. Extraction is a hard topic to master for wine drinkers and winemakers alike. We asked industry professionals to shed some light on this oft-confusing term. What is extraction in wine? "Extraction is the way to take things like flavor and color and other components out of the grapes and put it in a liquid solution," says Felipe Ramirez, winemaker at Rose & Arrow Estate and Alit Wines in Oregon's Willamette Valley. The process also pulls important components like tannins, acids and aromatics from the skin, pulp, seeds and (if used) stems of ripe grapes. All of these elements are deposited into the juice to make their way into wine. "Extraction is about building the core structure of the wine," says James Hall, founder and winemaker at Patz & Hall in Sonoma. "It's really at the heart of red winemaking because extraction, to my mind, is about removing the elements from the grape and putting them into solution in the wine in some proportion that is correct for the varietal and the style of wine." According to Cristóbal Undurraga, technical director and CEO of Koyle Family Vineyards in Chile's Colchagua Valley, extraction also ensures that the wine has good balance. "If you taste wines and they're overextracted, the wine will immediately have rustic tannins," he says. "For me, those wines will be not easy to drink or not comfortable to drink." On the other hand, if the wine was underextracted during production, it may be too thin or lack weight. How does extraction happen? Fermentation temperature, the actions of yeasts and other microbes and cap management are the main tools that winemakers use to control extraction. A "cap" refers to the solids pushed to the top of a container during fermentation, which leaves the liquid at the bottom, according to Ramirez. "You need to put the solids in contact with the liquid if you want to extract more things." This can be done by pushing the solids into the liquid, called a punch down, or pumping the liquid over the solids, known as a pump over. Barrels are another important consideration. "New oak will add tannins from the oak to the wine," says Undurraga, as well as flavor and texture. The toast of the barrel, grain of the wood and region where the trees were grown affect these components, so they must be carefully considered by winemakers. Is extraction in wine a good thing or a bad thing? "Extraction is in the mouth of the beholder," says Hall. The decision about whether a wine has too much or too little extraction has much to do with personal taste. For many years, highly extracted wines were coveted by critics and many wine lovers who liked their bold, burly styles. But too much extraction can be problematic. Ramirez draws an analogy to tea. If the water is too hot for the type being made, or if you stir or squeeze the bag too much, "you will overextract. And then you will have a cup of tea that tastes very tannic and bitter, and overpowers the aromas," he says. In some ways, wine is not that different. "With high fermentation temperatures and highly mechanical processes, you will overextract, and you will have a wine that tastes bitter or has a lot of tannins or herbal notes," says Ramirez. "You will extract things you don't want to extract." But, "I would suggest when you have wines that are very, very extracted, they tend to be more alike," says Hall. "It's sort of like putting on layers of paint. Eventually, you get to black. To get terroir, you need to have a middle ground where there's room for terroir to show through." As more enthusiasts appreciate terroir, the pendulum is swinging back to wines with less extraction. Underextraction can also be an issue. "If you underextract, the wine may be too light and ethereal, and won't age as well," says Hall. Undurraga believes underextraction is easier to mitigate. "Carmenère will always have that little bit of lightness or thinness on the midpalate, but you can fix it when it's blended with another variety, such as Petit Verdot," he says. "If you overextract, it's difficult to help that wine to be balanced." What Does 'Dry Red Wine' Mean? Does extraction apply to white or red wine? Extraction is a factor in both red and white wines. But it's something winemakers have to consider more carefully with reds. White wines are made by gently pressing grapes to remove the liquid and then fermenting it. "When you extract the juice, it's what you have," says Ramirez. "You need to be very, very careful on the pressing because that's the moment where you define the extraction of all the components that will be in your juice and in your wine. "For reds, it's totally different because you work with everything, all the solids and all the juice. Because red wine will continue their extractive processes throughout fermentation, there are more opportunities for wanted or unwanted compounds to find their way into the liquid."

What Does 'Salinity' Mean in Wine?

Imagine a cold, snowy evening in January. By 4:45 p.m., the sun has set. You open a crisp Assyrtiko or Muscadet, alongside fresh paella. Suddenly, it's summer. Paula Rester Salinas, beverage director of Side Street Hospitality Group in Fredericksburg, Texas, describes this sort of pairing as magical, "because it transports you elsewhere." High-acid wines like Assyrtiko, Vermentino and Muscadet offer an impression of salinity, which suggests "the kind of piercing acidity that a spritz of lemon would have, and a hint of brine or salinity that a squeeze of lime and pinch of salt would give a dish," says Nils Bernstein, contributing food editor at Wine Enthusiast. "[Saline-forward wines] are such good pairing partners across the board because they almost season the food in a sense," he says. Salinity is a tasting descriptor and a frequent extension of the term "minerality." Both can refer to how our palate perceives the pH of the wine. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY "Minerality is where we are talking about chalk and stone and graphite," says Bernstein. "And salinity falls into that realm very easily, if you extend minerality to seashell, and extend seashell to salinity." Seashell is a mineral composed of calcium carbonate. In wine, like other minerals, it registers as an aroma, not a taste. "With seashell, it's about the smell of the beach: saltwater, wet sand, seaweed and everything that exists alongside seashells, which only have a smell when fresh," he says. This aroma helps saline-forward wines emphasize flavors with a bit more tang and brightness. Often, in wines with abundant saline characteristics, salivary glands might gently activate in the corners of the cheeks, similar to when a squeeze of fresh lemon hits the tongue. Salinity in a wine is often associated with the proximity of vineyards to sea, sand and salt air. Many such wines originate from grapes grown near or within coastal regions. But salinity doesn't necessarily rely upon exposure to sea breezes or reflect the presence of salt in the wine or soil. "The saline taste in wines has to do with how the grapes ripen, how they are fermented and the intricate play between acidity, pH, and yeast and lees," says Roman Roth, winemaker at Wölffer Estate in Sagaponack, New York. While some soils affect how grapes ripen, Roth believes that the most important element for evoking salinity is a balanced vineyard with good sun exposure on the fruit. According to Roth, if fruit is picked too green, there is only acidity. If they're picked too ripe, tropical, richer and fattier flavors develop, he says. When wine is made with ripe fruit and its mouthfeel is fresh and offers a softer finish, the wine shows salinity. Production processes can also play a role in salinity. For example, in a light, dry Manzanilla Sherry, flor, a yeast cap, forms during fermentation. The end result expresses salinity. In addition to Manzanilla Sherry, which must be from vineyards near the coastal city of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Vermentino also expresses salinity alongside notes of citrus. It grows in Provence (known locally as Rolle), as well as in Liguria and Piedmont in northwest Italy and Sardinia. Picpoul (or Piquepoul) thrives in the Languedoc region of southern France, and a few from the Texas High Plains also offer crispness and nice acidity. What Does 'Extraction' Mean in Wine? Muscadet, a Loire Valley white made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape in Pays Nantais, is a perfect oyster pairing, refreshing and acid-forward. The most mineral-driven and saline-expressive Assyrtikos originate in Santorini, Greece. For another aroma of sea breeze and salt air, look for Albariño from Rías Baixas in northwest Spain. Roth says that a good wine should always have "a number of things competing for your attention. Is it acidity? Is it minerality? Is it tannins, or creamy yeast characters? Is it salinity? Nothing should stand out. They should all be in a harmonious balance, making the wine interesting and giving it finesse."

How Sulfites Became Public Enemy No.1 in Wine

Jessica Green can usually tell when a new article about sulfites is published without opening a magazine or looking at her phone. "In the last two months, I've been getting so many people coming in saying they have allergies," says Green, owner of Down the Rabbit Hole, a natural wine store in Sayville, New York. Wine labels rarely list ingredients, but the words "contains sulfites" are often prominent. The federal government requires bottles to carry a sulfite statement if a wine contains just 10 parts per million (ppm) of sulfites. "That's the only ingredient people see, and they automatically assume it's giving them a headache," says Green. Jessica Green is the owner of Down the Rabbit Hole, a natural wine shop in Sayville, New York / Photo via Down the Rabbit Hole According to WebMD, a beacon of self-diagnoses, only 1% of the population has a sulfite sensitivity. People with asthma are at greater risk, but the Cleveland Clinic reports that just 1-2.5% of asthmatics have sensitivity to sulfites. So, why are so many wine drinkers concerned with sulfites? Sulfites are trendy right now, just like malolactic fermentation was in the 1990s, says Matthew Rorick, vigneron at Forlorn Hope Wines in Napa, California. "It's one of these soundbites or hot button phrases that people learn and say, 'I only drink wine without sulfites,' without understanding what sulfites do for the wine," he says. "There's this perception in the market that using sulfites is cheating somehow, or is doing some sort of industrial intervention." Rorick uses native yeasts to ferment grapes like Trousseau and Barbera, and the resulting wines are unfiltered and brimming with personality. But he'll also use small amounts of sulfur dioxide, a liquid solution with sulfites, to prevent oxidation or limit bacterial growth as needed. Sulfites are an important and mostly benign tool, he says. They're just misunderstood. "There's this perception in the market that using sulfites is cheating somehow, or is doing some sort of industrial intervention."—Matthew Rorick, Forlorn Hope Wines Elemental sulfur occurs naturally and is found in every cell of the human body. Winemakers at certified organic vineyards often use it to control mildew. Sulfur is also present in sulfites, the inorganic salts that develop naturally during fermentation. As a result, all wine contains sulfites. Some bottles just have added sulfites, too. Steve Matthiasson leans toward low-intervention winemaking, and adds sulfites if it will benefit the wine / Photo by Marcus Jackson During fermentation, Saccharomyces yeast, a sugar-loving strain which is also used to make bread and beer, eats the sugar in the grape juice and converts it to alcohol. But these aren't the only microbes that fight for the sugar, says Steve Matthiasson, winemaker and cofounder of Matthiasson Wines, who leans toward low-intervention processes. Bacteria that can cause wine to smell like nail-polish remover or vinegar want to feed on the sugar, too. Yeast releases sulfites to thwart the bacteria. If all goes well, the yeast wins, and the wine ferments as expected. Other times, if a bacteria is taking over, a winemaker might add a little sulfur dioxide to help the yeast. Some wines, like Matthiasson's skin-fermented Ribolla Gialla, don't need any sulfites. What's the Difference Between Organic and Biodynamic Wine? "That wine is really high acid and crisp, and has a fair amount of tannin," he says. "It's much juicier and more giving without the sulfites." However, he adds that his rosé retains its "crunchy, sort of fresh-fruit character" better with a little sulfur. "We're not adding a bunch of weird shit to our wine, but we use sulfites if I think it will make the wine better," he says. "We're trying to make wine we're proud of." Rigorous canopy management is part of winemaking at Bohème Wines / Courtesy of Bohème John Skupny, cofounder and winemaker at Lang & Reed, adds a little sulfur dioxide when the winery's Chenin Blancs and Cabernet Francs need it. There's a quirky bacteria that causes a mousy aroma, he says, and it can emerge just after malolactic fermentation. "Just 10 [parts per million] of sulfur will kill it," he says. Every so often, someone will call Lang & Reed to ask if they add sulfur to their wines, says Skupny. Each bottled wine has 20 ppm to 30 ppm sulfites. But nobody wonders about sulfites in the pale-golden dried pear that's a tasting amenity at the St. Helena winery, he notes. "We're not adding a bunch of weird shit to our wine, but we use sulfites if I think it will make the wine better. We're trying to make wine we're proud of."—Steve Matthiasson, Matthiasson Wines Sulfur dioxide is present in a lot of packaged foods. According to the USDA, dried apricots could contain more than 2000 ppm sulfur dioxide. Meanwhile, the standard amount of sulfites added to a bottle of biodynamic wine is only up to 100 ppm. Sulfur dioxide also keeps frozen potatoes, pickles and shrimp from turning brown. "Anything uber-processed is probably going to have some sulfites because the whole point is to preserve food," says Kristin Kirkpatrick, a registered dietitian with Cleveland Clinic. There's no blood or saliva test to determine if people have sulfite sensitivity, says Kirkpatrick. Doctors give patients food with sulfites and wait for reactions like itching, hives or a scratchy throat. Those sensations can also be caused by other things in wine, says Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell Winery in Healdsburg, California. "Red wine has histamines and tannins," she says. "Any of those can cause allergies." Winemaker Theresa Heredia says a number of factors can result in symptoms often attributed to sulfites, including headaches. / Photo by Will Bucquoy Andrew Waterhouse, a wine chemist at University of California at Davis, says there are no studies linking sulfites to headaches, though too much tannin or alcohol definitely can make your head throb. Heredia, who spent a decade making biodynamic wine, says that picking grapes while they have higher acidity helps her keep bottlings under the biodynamic standard of 100 ppm. From Washington to Italy, 13 of Our Favorite Biodynamic Wines Higher acidity and higher tannins help stabilize wines, which means they're less likely to require sulfur dioxide, says Kurt Beitler of Bohème Wines. Beitler and his team blast used barrels with hot water and steam to remove any trace of acetic acid, which pushes wine toward vinegar. Beitler says his winemaking starts in the vineyard with rigorous canopy management. He trims leaves and drops clusters to give vines better airflow, so the grapes don't mildew in the vineyard. "Bringing only clean fruit to the winery is critical," he says. "With fewer enemies, we need fewer guns."

Best wine with pizza: Pairing ideas and bottles to seek out

Seeking inspiration for your next pizza night? Here are some top tips, plus delicious wines from Italy and further afield that have recently been reviewed by Decanter experts. Chris MercerFebruary 26, 2021 The art of Neapolitan pizza-making, known as 'Pizzaiuolo', got UNESCO heritage status in 2017. Credit: Zaria Wright / Unsplash.com Food and wine pairing Highlights Best wine with pizza: All-rounders Barbera Gamay Prosecco Sangiovese Frappato Fiano Nero d'Avola Search Decanter's expert wine reviews here Pizza is one of Italy's great culinary gifts to the world, and traditional pizza-twirling in Naples was recently enshrined by UNESCO as a skill of intangible cultural heritage. Beer is sometimes seen as a classic go-to for pizza night, but there are many mouthwatering wines that can work brilliantly with a range of toppings if you're planning to celebrate 'the art of the pizzaiuolo'. Wine and pizza pairing: The basics For a classic, wood-fired Napoletana pizza with tomato, mozzarella and simple toppings then think about a wine with good acidity and lots of bright fruit that will balance nicely against the acidity of the tomato. If you're keen to go for Italian reds, then that could be Barbera d'Asti, light styles of Sangiovese or even Frappato from Sicily. You could also consider Gamay, either from Beaujolais or from other corners of the wine world, such as Oregon or Stellenbosch. Pizza sets a relaxed tone and pairings can work best if you pick a wine 'that isn't trying too hard', according to Helen Johannesen, a sommelier who runs the 'Helen's' wine shop joined to Los Angeles pizza emporium Jon & Vinny's. 'I love pairing lighter reds like Gamay, rosé made from interesting varietals like Montepulciano, and even skin-contact wines (aka orange wines),' she told Decanter.com in 2019. 'Obviously you can ball out with some killer Barolo or lusciously rustic Rosso di Montepulciano, but I think the ease and comfort might be lost.' Be mindful that bold tannins in wine and acidity in food can clash, as Matthieu Longuère MS points out in a different context in this Decanter article on matching red wine and fish. Prosecco: Sparkling wine with pizza? 'I enjoy bubbles with pizza,' said Emily O'Hare, sommelier, wine writer and Decanter contributor based in Siena, Tuscany. 'Col fondo Prosecco works a treat,' she said, suggesting Malibran and Ca' dei Zago as producers to look out for. O'Hare, who also runs retreats and courses accredited by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, added, 'Pizza is chewy (the dough) and creamy (the cheese) and topped with acid (the tomato sauce), so something crisp and textured and savoury makes the combination so refreshing. 'It's important to feel refreshed so as to keep on going with the eating.' Wine with pepperoni or sausage pizza A spicier topping such as pepperoni will dominate the pizza's flavour and may be able to handle a wine with a bit more attitude. A juicy Grenache/Syrah blend could be great, but watch out for too much tannin and oak. In Tuscany, O'Hare said, 'If I stayed regional and red I'd look for a young Chianti or Chianti Classico Annata and put it in the fridge or outside to chill, and I'd go for a pizza with sausage meat to handle the more tannic wine choice.' Fruit-driven styles of Nero d'Avola, particularly from Sicily, have become a mainstay on several pizzeria wine lists in the UK and have the weight to pair with meat-based pizzas - although some poorer-made examples can lack balance, especially if served too warm. Wine with pineapple pizza Adding pineapple to pizza is a controversial topic, as Iceland's president discovered in 2017. But if you're a fan then you could look to white wines with good acidity and enough body to hand the flavours. This Fiano from Australia's Riverina region in New South Wales could be interesting, for example. 'White' pizza with ricotta or mushroom White pizzas change the nature of the pairing, because the acidity of the tomato is no longer such an issue. Fresh, dry white wines can work a treat. 'I love having our 'white lightning' pizza, with pickled jalapeños & ricotta, with white wines grown in the volcanic soils of Sicily or Campania,' said Johannesen. It doesn't have to be white wine, however. 'My favourite pizza we make is the 'super shroom', that is a mushroom pie highlighted by rachera cheese,' said Johannesen. 'It's drops a slightly funky beat, begging for some high acid Carignan or Zinfandel, or even a pet nat rosé with a tiny touch of residual sugar.' Wine with pizza and lots of garlic Garlic can be a very strong flavour. If you're combining this with basil on a pizza, how about experimenting with skin-contact white wines, such as those made from Vermentino? They would ordinarily match up well with green pesto. With so many toppings involved, wine and pizza can be a great avenue to explore and experiment with new pairing ideas. If you're looking for some of the basics on food and wine matching, refresh yourself on Karen McNeil's 10 rules of food and wine pairing. Best wine with pizza: Ideas for wines to look for Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Cavagino, Colli di Luni, Liguria 2018 + Add to My Wines One of Liguria's top Vermentino producers, Lunae Bosoni has been in the same family for five generations. Among its many fine expressions of Vermentino, Cavagino... Cà dei Zago, Brut Nature, Prosecco, Conegliano-Valdobiadenne, 2019 + Add to My Wines In the last two vintages, Christian and Marika Zanatta have begun to push back the boundaries of the col fondo style by giving their wine... Jolie-Laide, Barsotti Vineyard Gamay, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado County, California, USA 2019 + Add to My Wines Barsotti Vineyard sits on decomposed granite at 790m in the Sierra Foothills. This site is one of two in the El Dorado AVA (the other... Giornata, Barbera, Paso Robles, California, USA, 2018 + Add to My Wines Elegant inviting nose of blackberry, dark cherry, and hints of liquorice. Velvety texture packed with juicy dark fruits and berries as well as a hint of spiciness. Elegant finish Points91 Montesecondo, Chianti, Classico, Tuscany, Italy, 2018 + Add to My Wines Still little known, San Casciano in Val di Pesa is rapidly becoming Chianti Classico's shooting star producing some of the most exciting wines in the... Berton Vineyard, Fiano, Riverina, New South Wales, 2019 + Add to My Wines A mouthwatering and refreshing wine made from Italian grapes grown in Australia. An exotic combination of fresh pineapple chunks and aromatic jasmine on the nose with gooseberry, lime juice and mandarin zest on the palate. A top buy. Points91 Vietti, Tre Vigne, Barbera d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy 2018 + Add to My Wines A dry, medium-bodied red with plenty of ripe red cherry and blackcurrant aromas that sing alongside vanilla and floral notes. Lively food-friendly acidity lingers through the supple balanced finish. Points90 La Quercia, Primamadre, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, Abruzzo, 2019 + Add to My Wines From vines in Morro d'Oro in Teramo at 210m above sea level, the must spends eight to 12 hours in contact with the grape skins before pressing. It's a leesy, musty wine on the nose, but in the mouth simple cherry fruit emerges along with some bright strawberry and raspberry.... Points90 Santa Tresa, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, 2018 + Add to My Wines This organic red from Sicily is cracking value for money. A blend of Nero d'Avola (15% is dried on the vine to intensify its flavour) and Frappato, it's full of silky black cherry fruit, with ripe, rounded tannins but also good freshness. Notes of chamois leather, spice and black pepper... Points90 Marks & Spencer, Classics No35, Beaujolais Villages, France 2019 + Add to My Wines Paul Sapin makes M&S's three Beaujolais wines: a generic bottling, a cru Beaujolais from Fleurie and this mid-tier Villages, now under the Classics range. Appealing aromas of florals and raspberry jelly sweets lead to more concentrated, smooth palate of fresh blackberry and cherry with bright acidity to balance. Points89 Jummare, Organic Nero d'Avola, Sicily, Italy, 2019 + Add to My Wines Sicily doesn't just do a great line in summery whites but reds too. Nero d'Avola can be made in different styles but this one is very much in the upbeat, vibrant camp, with aromas of cherry blossom and ripe red fruits. There's a beautifully fresh acidity at the heart of... Points89 Guerrieri Rizzardi, Soave, Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2018 + Add to My Wines A classic Soave with a generosity and character that's hard not to warm to. It shows gentle almond and peach flavours together with a richness of texture that points to ripe fruit, sensible yields and deft winemaking. Very pleasant. Points88 This article was first published in 2019 and has been updated in February 2021, including with new wine reviews and extra comments from Emily O'Hare.

Thanksgiving wine inspiration: Ideas on bottles to choose

Thanksgiving in 2020 will have a very different feel for many people, but if you plan on opening a bottle then here is a selection of great US wines recently reviewed by Decanter experts. Chris MercerNovember 19, 2020 Credit: Photo by Joanna Kosinska on Unsplash Food and wine pairing Highlights Thanksgiving Smaller gatherings and virtual meet-ups are just two ways that Thanksgiving 2020 - and the holiday season in general - is likely to differ from more typical years for many people. Deciding on a Thanksgiving wine is hardly a major concern in such times. For wine lovers, however, opening an interesting bottle and sharing the contents with a small number of guests, or even enjoying a glass via a Zoom call with friends and family, could bring a moment of brightness to a difficult year. Below, you'll find a selection of US wines reviewed by Decanter in the past 12 months, and available at various prices, intended to offer some inspiration. For those planning to hold a small gathering with some or all of the traditional dishes, we've also included an excerpt from an article previously written for Decanter.com by wine expert Ray Isle on how to choose a Thanksgiving wine. He recommended opening bottles that will make whoever is around the table happy, rather than necessarily obsessing over precise food pairings. For instance, Thanksgiving dinner probably isn't the time to convince a long-established Bordeaux lover that an 'orange-hued, skin-fermented Ribolla Gialla is a better idea with the roast bird', he said. Yet wine geeks at the table might be thrilled at the prospective of Jura Savagnin, Isle wrote. He suggested thinking about wine in terms of three broad categories of taste, namely 'old school', 'moderately adventurous' or 'off the wall'. You can find more specific wine and food matching advice here, as well as in our wine and turkey pairing guide. Gift Decanter Premium this Thanksgiving Excerpt from an article originally published on Decanter.com in November 2015 by Ray Isle, who is executive wine editor at Food & Wine magazine in the US. Writing about Thanksgiving wine pairings is, for wine writers, almost as much as yearly ritual as Thanksgiving itself. Like Thanksgiving, there are traditions involved. For example: Stating that turkey in and of itself doesn't taste like much and therefore one should consider the plethora of side dishes on the table; Noting that Pinot Noir and Riesling have been anointed by sommeliers (and many others) as go-to wines that pair with anything; Noting that since turkey-day is a deeply American holiday, wines from the US are the appropriate option. Nothing wrong with all that. However, my suggestion is actually to more or less ignore what's on the table. Most Thanksgiving dinners involve a mass of different foods heaped together on a plate: roast turkey, gravy, stuffing, green beans, mashed potatoes, yams, cranberry sauce, and the list goes on. One bite may be turkey (white meat? dark? with gravy? without?); the next a brussel sprout (roasted? steamed? buttered?); then yams with marshmallows on top (in our house, at least; see above tradition). Worrying about pairing a specific wine with all that seems a bit far-fetched. Instead, I'd suggest that Thanksgiving wine choices are really more about pairing wines with people.' When it comes to who is present, Isle suggested thinking about wine in terms of three broad categories of taste, namely 'old school', 'moderately adventurous' or 'off the wall'. Thanksgiving wine inspiration: Tasting notes and scores by Decanter experts Domaine Carneros, Brut Methode Traditionelle, 2016 + Add to My Wines The winery is a stunning regional landmark for those driving north from San Francisco, and the wine is also something to admire. Classy and seductive... Roederer Estate, Quartet Brut Rose NV, Mendocino County + Add to My Wines This wine exudes class. It displays a wonderful pale pink colour with apricot and copper hue as well as tiny persistent bubbles. Aromas are delicate... Intrinsic, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington, 2017 + Add to My Wines A lively nose with a blend of violets and blackberry fruit kicks off this fun, engaging Washington Cabernet from Chateau Ste-Michelle that sources fruit from both Horse Heaven Hills and Columbia Valley. Mocha mixes it up with smoky undertones and lays the groundwork for well-managed structure, thanks in part to... Points91 Nicolas-Jay, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2017 + Add to My Wines High-toned and damp, this wine displays aromas of wet earth, Earl Grey tea and cocoa nibs, followed by flavours of pomegranate and red plum skin. It's classic Oregon Pinot Noir, and one can see the Méo-Camuzet influence, albeit with a softer generosity. The blend is based around Bishop Creek Vineyard,... Points93 Mayacamas, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt Veeder, Napa Valley, California, USA 2012 + Add to My Wines The 2012 vintage has a savoury, meaty quality that is enthralling and singular, with aromas of black pepper, wet earth and black plums. The texture... Schug, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 2018 + Add to My Wines A bright, clean character shines forth thanks to neutral barrels and stainless steel fermentation. A heady mix of green apple, citrus and stone fruit gives way to subtle earth-driven nuances and a crisp, lean body with innate minerality. The finish carries silky textures and a touch of herbal spice. Points90 Alexana, Terroir Series Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, 2017 + Add to My Wines From the first 2003 plantings of Pinot Gris, this opens to fresh pear and tutti-frutti aromas. There's more juicy, granular Asian pears on the palate, plus a red apple bite and a nice creaminess from lees stirring. Sustained, warming ginger spice finish. Points92 Cobb, Emmaline Ann Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2017 + Add to My Wines Pure and vibrant on the nose, showing notes of lavender, rose water and conifer. The weightless texture typical of this site is here in spades,... Trinchero, Mario's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, St Helena, Napa Valley, California, USA 2014 + Add to My Wines Brimming with ripe cassis, dark plum and black cherry aromas, this shows considerable concentration with well-honed power and understated elegance. A touch of smoke and... Barboursville Vineyards, Octagon, Monticello, Virginia, USA 2014 + Add to My Wines Michael Broadbent put just-blooming Virginia on the international wine map when he reviewed the 1998 vintage of this Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend. Regarded as one of the most important wines in the state for evincing the quality and ageability of its reds, it's a dead ringer for Right Bank Bordeaux. Pretty,... Points92 The Ojai Vineyard, Puerta del Mar Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County, California, USA 2015 + Add to My Wines The 2.5ha Puerta del Mar vineyard lies outside the Sta Rita Hills AVA, and is Ojai's coolest site, getting the full Pacific Ocean influence. At five years, this wine is just hitting its stride, offering raspberry, savoury spice, dusky earthy tones and a breezy, mineral edge on the smooth palate.... Points92 Ravines, Argetsinger Vineyard Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, 2016 + Add to My Wines Produced with fruit from mature vines on the southeast shore of Seneca Lake, this is world-class Riesling by any measure, featuring aromas of ripe apricot,... Jolie-Laide, Halcon Vineyard Syrah, Yorkville Highlands, Mendocino County, California, USA 2016 + Add to My Wines Halcon Vineyard sits at 700m above sea level in the Yorkville Highlands. A cool site above the fog line, it experiences less of a diurnal... Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Cuvée Arthur Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2016 + Add to My Wines Named after Véronique's son Arthur and grown in the deep, volcanic Jory soils of the Dundee Hills. Slight smoky aromas envelope hazelnut and ripe stone fruit while a scented, floral overtone sets an unusual accent. The palate shows richness and freshness in equal measure and the restrained use of oak... Points91 Rodney Strong, Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2016 + Add to My Wines Rodney Strong has grown Cabernet Sauvignon in the Alexander Valley since 1971 and today farms four different plots in the AVA. Harvesting for the fruit... Eisele Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2018 + Add to My Wines I'm always a big fan of this Sauvignon Blanc, for me it's one of the best examples of the grape that you can find in...

Actor-entrepreneur-vintner Sarah Jessica Parker used Zoom during the COVID-19 pandemic for virtual blending sessions of her Sauvignon Blanc under the Invivo X, SJP label, from which region that's tough to get to from Manhattan even in normal times?

The answer is: Marlborough, New Zealand

In early 2020, a team at UCLA found that tiny shockwaves play a big role in making these patterns that wash up inside a wineglass after a good swish of Cabernet, Port or other high-alcohol vino.

The answer is: Wine tears

Far Niente 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

This memorable Cabernet Sauvignon has small amounts of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec blended in. Aged 17 months in a majority of new French oak, it unfurls flavors of red fruit, dried herb and clove over a core of youthful tannin and spicy oak. Best from 2028-2038. VIRGINIE BOONE RATING 95 PRICE $145,BUY NOW VARIETY Cabernet Sauvignon APPELLATION Napa Valley, Napa, California, US WINERY Far Niente Print a Shelf Talker Label ALCOHOL 14.5% BOTTLE SIZE 750 ml CATEGORY Red DATE PUBLISHED 3/1/2021

What Does 'Creamy' Mean in Wine?

The term "creamy" crops up in a lot of wine tastings. Primarily a reference to texture, it can tell you a lot about how and where a wine was made, whether you're sipping crisp bubbles or a rich, lush Chardonnay. Dan Amatuzzi, senior beverage director at Eataly, says creamy wines generally have "a round, soft and buttery or dairy-like texture. This characteristic comes from one of two places: either aging in oak barrels, which imparts vanilla, coconut, and buttery and velvety flavors; or from a more technical process called malolactic fermentation." Malolactic fermentation is the process where malic acid is converted to lactic acid. Amatuzzi compares it to starting with the sharp bite of a Granny Smith apple, and ending with something smooth and round like whole-fat milk or cream. These sorts of wines can elicit visceral responses. "To me, creamy is a feeling in the mouth after you taste a wine," says Tanisha Townsend, wine educator and creator of Girl Meets Glass. "Think dairy, like actual cream or butter on the palate." SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Chardonnays from the south of Burgundy are often described this way, says Townsend, as are some Viogniers and Sémillons. Some Americans associate the term with Napa Chardonnays that get their big, buttery flavor profiles from malolactic fermentation. HOORAY FOR CHARDONNAY: A GLOBAL GUIDE TO THE WORLD'S BEST BOTTLES The term takes on different connotations with sparkling wines. "In still wines, it's more of a mouthfeel and not necessarily a taste, whereas in sparkling wines, it can come from the taste of the actual yeast that the wine was aged with," says Townsend. May Matta-Aliah, an educational ambassador for Franciacorta, says creamy notes often correlate to quality sparkling wines. Top-shelf sparklers have fine, delicate bubbles, as opposed to large, aggressive ones. "You can only achieve that 'creaminess' in a sparkling wine if that wine has been allowed to develop its effervescence over an extended period of time and under cool cellar conditions during its second fermentation," says Matta-Aliah. Traditional-method sparkling wines age a minimum of two years on their lees, or dead yeast cells. WHAT ARE 'LEES' IN WINE? "As the lees break down, they release certain compounds into the fermented wine," says Matta-Aliah. "This interaction creates both a complexity in aroma and flavor compounds as well as enhancing the weight and texture of the wine." While the results might not be as dairy-like as in still wines, the flavors associated with lees aging are also rich. "This exposure, usually over the course of years, imbues creamy notes and flavors often expressed in the form of freshly baked bread, croissants, brioche, confectionary and so on," says Amatuzzi.

Yeasts: do you know what's flavouring your wine?

There's not much about a wine's aroma, taste or texture that isn't influenced by yeast. But could bespoke yeasts change a grape's inherent character or risk homogeneity of flavour? Benjamin Lewin MW reports... Yeast cells under the microscope It might seem that the character of wine is a simple matter of grape variety, influenced by terroir and conditions of winemaking, but there's an unseen hand in every wine - the yeast that fermented the juice. The gooseberry aromas of Sauvignon Blanc, the lychee of Gewurztraminer, the strawberry notes of Pinot Noir - none of these are found in the grapes, but they are released or created by yeast during fermentation. Of the thousand or so compounds that determine the flavour and aroma of wine (most present in vanishingly small amounts), very few can be tasted or smelled in the grape, which is why wine does not taste like grape juice plus alcohol. (Almost the only exception is Muscat, where both the grape and wine have the same 'grapey' smell, due to specific compounds called terpenes.) So, how far are yeasts responsible for what you smell and taste in wine? 'A selected yeast can account for about 10% of the sensory definition of wine,' Michel Feuillat used to say at the University of Burgundy. This is a good way of describing what yeast does - all yeasts convert sugar to alcohol, but a particular yeast may make more or less of certain aroma and flavour compounds during fermentation. However, Ann Dumont, a yeast producer at Lallemand, says: 'Yeast cannot create new flavours out of the blue. It will transform what's in the berries, not only into alcohol, but also into aroma compounds. Yeast will work from the raw material that it is supplied with.' The effect of yeasts also lives on after them - during the process known as autolysis, when wine is maturing on the lees, the remnants of the yeast release compounds into the wine that contribute to mouthfeel. So there is not much about the character of wine that isn't influenced by yeast. One big divide in winemaking is whether to let fermentation happen naturally, by the indigenous yeasts in the winery, or whether to add cultured yeast to control the process. Cultured yeasts Cultured yeasts are selected from natural yeast populations; sometimes they are used specifically to help to bring out the character of their region of origin, or to emphasise specific aromatic properties. Character is sometimes reinforced by cross breeding. (Although there have been research experiments with genetically modified (GM) yeast, almost none is available commercially; 'GM yeast is completely ruled out by public opinion,' says Dumont.) 'I'm not trying to manipulate the wine, I just want the vineyard to show the best aspect it can,' says Jeff Cohn at JC Cellars in California, explaining how he came to isolate the RP15 yeast (now a commercially available strain). 'I had a vineyard at Rockpile for Syrah. I was doing bin fermentations and a few of the bins had a special flavour profile, so I isolated the yeast from those ferments. It brings a lot of minerality to the wine; it emphasises red fruits rather than black.' Estimates for the use of cultured yeast in worldwide winemaking range from 70%-90%. Most often, the reason is probably simply to avoid the risks of spoilage that can occur with indigenous fermentation; sometimes the reasons are technical, such as using special yeast to ferment in high alcohol. The most striking examples of wine styles influenced by yeast come from aromatic varieties, where small changes in the concentrations of key components can greatly affect varietal character. The best-known example of a yeast with aromatic influence is strain 71B, which was selected for use with nouveau wines because it increases fermentation esters (usually esters evaporate before wine is consumed, but they are still present in nouveau wines that are drunk soon after bottling). Strain 71B increases formation of isoamyl acetate, which gives a strong impression of bananas. Critics said that for some years the consumers of Beaujolais Nouveau, especially in Japan, were under the mistaken impression that the natural aroma of Beaujolais was banana. Enhancing aromas The gooseberry and passion fruit aromas of Sauvignon Blanc come from sulphur-containing compounds that are released during fermentation from non-odiferous precursors in the grape. Cultured yeasts vary widely in their effectiveness in freeing the odours, but winemaker Marcia Monahan at Matanzas Creek in Sonoma says that the grapevine clones and canopy management are more important in determining style. 'Yeasts are in third place; they are important because the more enzymes they have, the more aromatics will be released, but the precursors have to be there.' She selects yeasts to match the properties of the grapes from each block. How commonly are yeasts used to increase aromatics? 'Two-thirds of the wines here are made using aromatic yeasts,' says one Sancerre producer. 'People must be using aromatic yeasts - there are flavours that wouldn't be there otherwise,' says another, who uses a cultured yeast from Champagne that his grandfather introduced because of its neutrality. Yeasts that increase the aromatic intensity of Gewürztraminer work by increasing the release of terpenes. Here there's a novel alternative - a winemaker can buy preparations of the enzyme from those yeasts and add the powder to the must. Is this crossing the line of manipulation? Petrol is one of the most striking aromas caused during fermentation of Riesling. Not everyone likes this. At the Rheinland-Pfalz research centre in Germany, Dr Ulrich Fischer is trying to develop a yeast that will make the less odiferous vitispirane instead. Is this changing varietal character? The classic description of Meursault is nutty and buttery. Want your Chardonnay to taste more like Meursault? Use CY3079 yeast, which increases the impression of hazelnuts and brioche. According to the authorities in Burgundy, it 'reinforces the aromas coming from the barrel and gives Chardonnay wines a rich hint which balances and melts wood tannins'. Is using yeast to balance aromas and flavours a counterpart to choosing specific clones of a grape variety? 'Very much so, especially in cases where there isn't much heterogeneity in the vineyard block - using different yeasts is a way of building complexity,' says Christopher Christensen at Bodkin Wines in California. 'I may use one yeast for mouth-building properties and another for aromatics,' he says, 'and sometimes it pays to use multiple yeasts that compete with one another.' Increasing alcohol in wine is a major concern worldwide. Since yeasts create the alcohol, can they help by making less of it? In principle, yeasts don't have to convert all the sugar into alcohol - some could be diverted. But here's the rub - the carbon atoms have to go somewhere. One recently developed yeast strain makes as much as 1.5% less alcohol: but it makes more glycerol and lots more ethyl acetate (nail polish remover). It's not easy to find alternative targets to alcohol that don't radically change the flavour and aroma spectrum of the wine. 'That's what yeasts do - create alcohol. If you change that, you change the whole story,' says Charlotte Gourraud at yeast producer Laffort. Yeast is best for making adjustments to minor components rather than looking for major shifts. I would be surprised if a low-alcohol yeast could be found without a profound homogenising effect. Preserving diversity A potential homogenising effect on flavour is one major argument against using cultured yeasts. 'The idea that cultured yeast will homogenise flavours is simplistic. It's putting all the onus of flavour creation on the yeast as opposed to the grapes and the talent of the winemaker,' says Dumont. 'There are about 200 strains, which leaves good opportunities for biodiversity,' says Charlotte Gourraud. How far can yeast influence the flavour of wine? 'You can tailor your product to reach your customer by identifying consumer preferences, the effect that a choice has on a customer, and its genetic composition,' says researcher Linda Bisson at the University of California. 'Once we've identified the flavour compounds, we can manipulate the taste. We derive flavours from the yeast, not the grapes.' 'You can achieve almost any taste through these aromatic yeasts,' agrees biodynamic guru Nicolas Joly, but as the most vociferous opponent of using cultured yeasts, he draws a different conclusion. His basic criticism is that 're-yeasting', as he calls it, obliterates local character and vintage variation. 'Re-yeasting is the consequence of a series of mistakes. It means you have destroyed your local yeasts,' he says. Admitting that cultured yeasts can be used to make good wine (albeit lacking typicity of place and year), Nicolas believes that consumers should be informed. 'Using yeast is okay as long as the consumer is not cheated. The label should say that cultured yeasts were used to give flavour.' The alchemist tried to turn base metal into gold. Yeast does something more interesting: it turns grape juice into wine. The winemaker can use the alchemy of yeast to direct development of style, or can take the alternative view that natural variation from indigenous yeast is an essential part of wine's character. There are no half measures here - if you use cultured yeast, you have to choose a specific strain(s), and even an attempt to be neutral (what is neutral, anyway?) is a choice. Using indigenous yeasts lets nature choose. The decision is one of the most crucial that influences wine style. Click here to see a table of different types of yeast and how they affect the taste of wine Written by Benjamin Lewin MW

Is Hyperspecific Wine Stemware Worth It?

Whether it's Burgundy, Bordeaux, Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc, there's a glass for that. The dizzying array of stemware designed to optimize the aromas and flavors of certain wine grapes and regions seems to have no limits. Grüner fans can buy vessels shaped to capture its white pepper and citrus nuances, while new glassware lines claim to enhance specific styles of wine. All of which begs the question: Have wine glasses become too specific? Decades ago, things were simpler. In most U.S. bars or kitchens, red wine went into large round goblets, while smaller-sized glasses were reserved for white wine. Sparkling options were served in flutes or coupes. That all changed in the 1970s, when Austrian glassmaker Claus J. Riedel introduced the first grape-specific stemware designs. It was expanded on over the years by his son, Georg, and grandson, Maximilian, Riedel's 11th generation CEO and president. Collections include Veritas, Vinum and Winewings, whose airplane-inspired, flat-bottomed design represents the largest surface area of the company's line of glassware. Riedel's Veritas Collection, left to right: Champage, New World Shiraz, and Old World Pinot Noir glasses / Photo courtesy Riedel Astute collectors may have also noticed that bowls have become bigger, a trend that Riedel attributes to climate change. "Over the years, we have expanded the size of many of our varietal-specific bowls to accommodate this rise in alcohol levels, to ensure they do not overpower the fruit flavors apparent in the wine," says Maximilian. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Without getting into the science behind the weight and volatility of different wine compounds, such specialty glassware usually comes down to aromatics, says Winn Roberton, head sommelier at Bourbon Steak in Washington, D.C. He opts for the Schott Zwiesel Tritan stemware line. As an experiment, Roberton poured Bordeaux into a Burgundy glass, and vice versa. In the "wrong" glass, the oak in the Bordeaux seemed too front and center, while the Burgundy's aromas didn't receive the lift he believed it needed. Schott Zwiesel's Pure series of stemware / Photo courtesy Schott Zwiesel What makes less sense to Roberton is the overemphasis on stem length, specifically those meant for crisp, nonaromatic whites. If the intention is to keep a wine cooler, he recommends a smaller glass. That's not to say he's a fan of stemless options. To hold the bowl not only warms the wine, "the oil from your hands, with all of the aromas of what you've been touching, [gets] on the glass, and ultimately right by your nose, when you take a sip," says Roberton. We Recommend:Riedel Vinum Pinot Noir/Burgundy Wine Glasses (Set of 2)Riedel Sommeliers Chardonnay Wine Glass (1) Drew Brady, operations director for New York City-based restaurant group Overthrow Hospitality, jokes that he's seen everything "from the seemingly indestructible Libbey warship to the comically wide, ultradelicate Burgundy glass that feels like you're raising the bowl of life." He admits that these endless glassware options have become part of the ritual, but it also can alienate many who view wine as elitist. "I'm weary it may create just one more unnecessary and expensive barrier to entry." Brady opts for The One, a line of glassware produced by Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson. It's touted as utilizing "one perfect shape that optimizes all wines and grapes." The One line of universal stemware by Andrea Robinson / Photo courtesy Andrea Robinson One topic that tends to generate consensus among somms, retailers and producers is glassware for sparkling wine. As romantic and celebratory as sparkling wine flutes and coupes may be, many pros agree that they can mask your bubbly's aromas and fruit notes. Michelle Lim Warner, a certified sommelier and cofounder/CEO of DCanter, a wine boutique in Washington, D.C., uses Riedel and Eisch Sensis Plus. She suggests a side-by-side comparison of bubbly poured in a flute and a larger white wine glass. "A lot of what we taste is influenced by what we smell, so the right glassware is really about bringing those two senses together to create a fuller experience," says Lim Warner. Michelle Lim Warner, CEO of DCanter, sampling Sancerre with Eisch Sensis Plus glassware / Photo courtesy Michelle Lim Warner Roberton says that a flute prevents someone from getting their nose into the bowl to get a good whiff. "But if you are going for that feeling of 'electricity' that comes from something really crisp like extra brut, go with the flute," he says. Some designers aim to match stemware to wine style, rather than a grape or region. Karen MacNeil, a Napa Valley-based wine consultant, educator and author of The Wine Bible, would hear her students often say "I like bold reds," or "I like crisp whites." Does Your Wine Glass Really Matter? MacNeil began to wonder why glasses couldn't simply be based on flavor. She worked with producer Oneida to determine how many types of glassware would be needed to cover 99% of wine. The result was Flavor First, which offers three glasses: Crisp & Fresh (bubbly, rosé and aromatic whites), Creamy & Silky (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Grenache) and Bold & Powerful (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Barolo, Zinfandel and Syrah). Oneida's Flavor First, Creamy and Silky glass / Photo courtesy Oneida It's a different approach that spurs varying opinions among wine professionals. "Taking a broader stroke for universal results based on wine characteristics is the better way to do," says Brady. Lim Warner calls the approach intuitive. Roberton appreciates the concept, though he says the Creamy & Silky designation is a bit confusing and more geared toward white wines. To use specialty stemware or universal glasses comes down to personal choice. You shouldn't fear that a wine won't taste right in the 'wrong" glassware. However, a bit of glassware specificity can still elevate the wine experience.

Black and white pepper in tasting notes: What's the difference?

Black and white pepper can both turn up in tasting notes, but how do they differ? We explain the basics below, with expert commentary from Decanter's Rhône expert, Matt Walls. Ellie DouglasApril 7, 2021 Credit: Decanter Ask Decanter Highlights What is the difference between black and white pepper? Both black and white pepper come from the same peppercorn plant, but the difference in flavour comes from how they are processed. The peppercorns are originally green in colour but black peppercorns are sun-dried, while white peppercorns have the out layer removed, either before or after drying, leaving the white seed. 'White pepper smells more pungent than black pepper, [while] black pepper is slightly fresher and more complex,' said Matt Walls, Decanter's Rhône expert and contributing editor, talking to Decanter.com in 2018. 'The 'peppery' flavour found in plants comes from a naturally occurring compound called rotundone. It's present in peppercorns, as well as some herbs, such as oregano, and also certain grapes. White pepper contains more rotundone than black pepper. In a feature on rotundone for Decanter magazine, Walls stated that 'white pepper contains around 2,025,000 nanograms per kilogram (ng/kg); black pepper 1,205,000 ng/kg'. When looking at other herbs and plants, Walls said this compared to: 'marjoram with 208,000 ng/kg; rosemary with 86,000 ng/kg; oregano with 1,000 ng/kg; and "peppery" grapes with just 190 ng/kg.' Black pepper in wine 'Peppery notes in wine tend to come from particular grape varieties rather than as a product of the winemaking process,' said Walls. According to Decanter's tasting notes decoded, 'black pepper notes usually crop up in earthy or spicy dry red wines, particularly those made from Syrah / Shiraz, either single-varietal or constituting a classic blend with Mourvèdre and Grenache'. For example, this Elephant Hill, Syrah, Hawke's Bay 2015 has 'distinct black pepper notes' with a 'lingering, gently smoky, peppery finish'. And this Jolie Laide, Syrah, North Coast California 2016 was described as having a 'captivating nose: smoky bacon, cigars, black pepper, juniper, cola.' Walls said that black pepper notes can also be found in Pinot Noir, Gamay and Graciano, albeit not as commonly as in Syrah wines. It is also 'highly variable across vintages. Wines with high rotundone one year might show no pepperiness the following year.' White pepper in wine White pepper - generally a less common aroma - is a classic characteristic of Grüner Veltliner. For example, this Familie Mantler, Grüner Veltliner 2019 has 'soft peach and a twist of white pepper'. It can show up in other white wines, too. In the UK, Chapel Down, Flint Dry 2019 was recently described as having 'plenty of limey acidity on the palate with crunchy green apple juice dusted with white pepper spice'. White pepper is not just limited to white wines, however. The Fromm Vineyard, Syrah, Marlborough 2016 has a 'super fresh nose with notes of white pepper and pounded raspberries', noted Walls earlier this year.

It's Surprisingly Difficult to Pair Wine with Chocolate, but These Tips Can Help

Both symbolic of romance, wine and chocolate are arguably two of the most classic Valentine's Day delicacies. But pairing the two isn't always as easy as it seems. "Both are very terroir-driven products in that they reflect the flavors of the land in which they're grown and the environment in which they're processed," says Alexandra Schrecengost, a beverage-industry veteran and CEO of Virtual with Us, which curates wine and chocolate pairings as part of its virtual event offerings. "The polyphenols in chocolate are similar to the ones in wine, and they form a natural pairing in that way as well." Polyphenols are a category of plant compounds that can act as antioxidants and are said to offer an array of health benefits. Like wine, chocolate is also sourced from across the globe. Each region has a unique terroir that results in distinct and nuanced flavors. "Even one estate will taste different than a neighboring estate," says Roxanne Browning, a chocolate sommelier. She's hosted wine and chocolate experiences in New York since 2010. "So it's very specific." The trick is to find two flavor profiles that complement one another. "First, taste the wines and chocolates on their own," says chocolatier Chris Kollar, of Napa Valley's Kollar Chocolates. "Next, write down flavor notes and profiles of each product separately. Then compare the similarities that stand out and start honing what particular wine pairs favorably with the chocolate. "They both have to share the limelight and complement each other to have harmony across your palate." The outcome to avoid? Bitterness. "The largest thing to understand is that flavonoids are the most prominent polyphenol in chocolate, which gives off a bitter taste similar to tannins in a wine, so you don't want to overload those phenols," says Schrecengost. "The drier the wine, the more bitter the chocolate, and you do not want to do that to your palate." If this all sounds overwhelming, here's an easy rule of thumb: Pair lighter chocolates with lighter wines, and dark chocolates with darker, heavier wines. "I like to refer to wines and chocolate in terms of weight class," says Josh Mitchell, culinary director at Theorem Vineyards in Calistoga, California. "To have better success in pairing wine and chocolate, making sure they share a similar weight or structure is key. If the structure of the wine and chocolate are off-balance, the pairing can produce astringent or unpleasant flavors, or just fall flat." Here's how to pair wine with different kinds of chocolate. A Completely Serious Guide to Pairing Craft Beer with the Whitman's Sampler Dark chocolate "Pair a darker chocolate with bigger reds or Ports," says Todd Graff, winemaker at Frank Family Vineyards in Calistoga. "The higher tannin complements the bitterness of the cacao." Kollar suggests that you stick to dark chocolate between 67% and 72%, as it won't be overly bitter or too sweet for red wines. That percentage refers to how much of the chocolate, by weight, is made from pure cacao beans or derivatives like cocoa butter. This can indicate the intensity (a high percentage) or sweetness (a lower percentage) of a chocolate. While big, red wines are the standard for dark chocolate, Michael Kennedy, sommelier and founder of Vin Fraîche Wine Group, encourages experimentation. Kennedy discovered a surprisingly good pairing by accident when he tried an 85% dark chocolate bar with an Oregon Chardonnay from State of Mind Wines. "The two were like heaven together," he says. "The super-dry, bitter dark chocolate confoundingly complemented the salty, bright acidity and texture of the Chardonnay." Milk chocolate Milk chocolate is the most flexible variety when it comes to wine pairings, and it can match with an array of styles. Frank Family will pair an Orange Grand Marnier Raspberry Milk Chocolate with a Brut Rosé for an upcoming event, but Schrecengost's favorite milk chocolate pairing is Riesling. "Its honey aroma and stone-fruit flavors amplify the creaminess of the chocolate, and they're both on the sweeter side, so neither is competing for your palate," she says. Moreover; lighter-style reds, like Pinot Noir or Beaujolais, offer a safe bet. "Most lighter red wines tend to be higher in acid, which also acts as a contrast to the richness of the chocolate," says Mitchell. He recommends the Champagne truffle from Teuscher Chocolate for lighter red wine pairings. "The structure of the chocolate is creamier and more rounded so as not to overpower the lighter-style red wine," he says. Using Champagne to Elevate Your Chocolate Experience White Chocolate White chocolate is best matched with white wines like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, or a sweeter bottling like a Moscato. "I can't think of a better sweet match for Sauvignon Blanc than something like a white chocolate," says Schrecengost, who gravitates toward Green & Black's organic white chocolate bars. "They have a hint of Madagascan vanilla that enhances the fresh lemongrass and citrus notes in Sauvignon Blanc." Mitchell is partial to a white chocolate with citrus undertones from Belgium's Callebaut Chocolate. "It would pair beautifully with a crisp sparkling wine or even a dessert wine such as Moscato di Asti," he says. Chocolate with fillings Chocolates that have filling are the trickiest to pair. A filling's flavors can run the gamut. "I have found the pairings that work best are those that have complementary flavor profiles that cancel each other out," says Mitchell. "For example, chocolates with fruit filling quiet the fruit flavors in the wine, allowing lovely notes of caramel oak to surface. Similarly, caramel-filled chocolates mirror the wine's oak notes, bringing lovely fruit flavors to prominence." For Kennedy, he admits to a simple "guilty pleasure" of Reese's Peanut Butter Cups with an Tuscan red like La Caccia di San Giovanni. "The rustic earthiness of our Italian estate with the bright fruit from the Sangiovese are really wonderful complements to the sweet nuttiness of Reese's," he says.

Wine yeasts: How do they impact wine flavour? - Ask Decanter

Don't go thinking that all yeasts are the same or that their only job is to 'make' alcohol; yeast strains can also affect a wine's character. Sylvia WuSeptember 11, 2020 In the world of wine, the use of yeast is commonly associated with the species of saccharomyces ('sugar fungus') cerevisiae, also known as brewer's yeast Credit: : MELBA PHOTO AGENCY / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Highlights What are yeasts Yeasts are single-cell microorganisms that are responsible for the production of the enzymes that permit fermentation; the conversion of six-carbon sugar molecules into ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide while releasing heat. During fermentation, yeasts also produce small amounts of volatile compounds, such as esters, aldehydes and sulphur, which can contribute to the varied aroma and flavour profiles of the finished wine. In the world of wine, the use of yeast is commonly associated with the species of saccharomyces ('sugar fungus') cerevisiae, also known as brewer's yeast because it is used to make beer and leavening bread. Cultured vs indigenous yeasts One of the most controversial subjects in the winemaking realm is whether to use yeasts naturally present in vineyards and wineries (ambient or 'wild' yeasts) or those that have been manually cultivated to serve certain winemaking needs. Traditionally, spontaneous fermentation is a combined effect of a mixture of naturally existing yeasts. While the indigenous Saccharomyces species is usually found on the surface of grape berries, there are also other (non-Saccharomyces) wild yeasts that are present in the environment. Although they can also impact on the flavour and quality of the wine, they tend to give way to the brewer's yeast when the alcohol strength in the must goes significantly higher than 5% abv, or there is sufficient level of sulphur dioxide to restrict their activities. While there is still debate about the issue, indigenous yeasts are considered by some winemakers as part of the local terroir. They are believed by some to give a more balanced and complex flavour profile to a wine. Decanter columnist Andrew Jefford previously cited research that found indigenous yeast can not only 'maximise personality differences, but take each wine to a different resting point in terms of sugar conversion'. Also read: Yeast - Call Me Dad However, using naturally existing yeasts always presents the risk of unwanted strains - such as Brettanomyces - causing aromas and flavours that are considered undesirable by some. Equally, wild Saccharomyces yeasts can also be ineffective and unpredictable. In order to eliminate such risks and ensure a smoother, more controlled fermentation, many modern winemaking operations choose to use one or more pre-selected yeast strains. In an earlier Decanter article, Benjamin Lewin MW estimated that use of so-called cultured yeast in winemaking 'ranges from 70%-90%' worldwide. These cultivated strains, which were originally isolated from ambient yeasts, can vary widely in their characteristics, including the aromas and flavours they promote (see below), their tolerance to the environment (e.g. sulphur dioxide levels, heat and alcohol levels) and their efficiency in converting sugar to alcohol. Producers can thus pick-and-choose the most ideal characteristics to make their wines. Defenders of wild fermentation argue that the use of a single, cultured yeast strain leads to somewhat artificial flavours or a lack of diversity between wines, However, some winemakers are experimenting with blends of cultured yeasts from the more than 200 strains available in the market. Yeasts and flavours Yeasts 'can colour, shape and mould the entire sensual presence of the wine', as Jefford puts it. 'The gooseberry aromas of Sauvignon Blanc, the lychee of Gewürztraminer, the strawberry notes of Pinot Noir - none of these are found in the grapes, but they are released or created by yeast during fermentation,' according to Benjamin Lewin MW. Read the full feature: Yeasts - do you know what's flavouring your wine? Lewin pointed out that the influence of yeasts is most evident in aromatic wines, because 'small changes in the concentrations of key components can greatly affect varietal character'. The banana notes of Beaujolais Nouveau, for instance, are believed to come from the increased formation of isoamyl acetate due to yeast strain 71B. The CY3079 yeast can increase the hazelnut and brioche notes of Chardonnay. The amount of monoterpenes released by yeasts is also understood to significantly alter the expression of aromatic varieties such as Gewürztraminer and Muscat. The gooseberry and passion fruit aromas of Sauvignon Blanc can be traced back to elements in the grapes, which are converted into sulphur-containing compounds during fermentation. Yeasts can continue to contribute to wine flavours even after they are dead. When left in the wine after fermentation, the dead yeast cells, or lees, start to dissolve due to the enzymes in a process called autolysis. Also read: What are lees in wine? - Ask Decanter This process can provide a rounder mouthfeel and richer textures to a linear base wine, while adding brioche and biscuit-like flavours. Lees aging is widely used in producing some white wines, such as in parts of Burgundy and Muscadet. It is also crucial in making Champagne, as well as 'traditional method' sparkling wines more generally.

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Cork Taint

Ever sit down, pour yourself a glass of wine and have it smell reminiscent of a wet newspaper or moldy basement? Or swirled a glass of wine and noticed it smelled muted, or like nothing at all? If so, chances are your wine was cork tainted, or more commonly, "corked." Cork taint is a contaminant in wine caused by musty aroma compounds. The most common culprit is 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (TCA). While some wine flaws, such as brettanomyces and volatile acidity, can be subjective as to whether they hurt or enhance a wine, cork taint is universally considered a flaw at any detectable level. The cause of cork taint TCA is formed in tree bark when fungi, mold or certain bacteria come into contact with a group of fungicides and insecticides, collectively referred to as halophenols. These were widely used during the 1950-1980s and remain in the soil. Fungi have a defense mechanism that chemically alters these compounds, rendering them harmless to the organism but creating TCA in the process. Many producers make cork for their wine closures out of tree bark and, unfortunately, they don't always know if parts of the bark were contaminated with fungicides or insecticides. If they were, their resulting corks would damage any wine they touch. GETTY This is the most common way wines become TCA tainted, although others do exist, like barrel, equipment or winery contamination. It is possible, though rare, for screwcap wines to be cork tainted if they come in contact with this contaminated equipment. TCA can also occur when sodium hypochlorite (bleach) reacts with lignin, a naturally occurring wood compound. This creates a compound called 2,4,6-trichlorophenol (TCP). Mold, yeast and bacteria then convert this compound into TCA. Descriptions of cork taint date back to the early 20th century. However, it wasn't until 1981 that TCA was identified as the main cause of cork taint in wine by the Swiss scientist Hans Tanner and his research team. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Humans have a remarkable sensitivity to cork taint, with people able to smell TCA between two and five parts per trillion, and some even below one part. That's like being able to identify one teaspoon of water from 1,000 Olympic-sized swimming pools. WINE FAULTS AND HOW TO RECOGNIZE THEM The effects of cork taint Cork taint inhibits olfactory signal transduction, creating a muting effect. Simply put, it interferes with your ability to smell. Heavy cork taint gives off an unpleasant aroma reminiscent of a musty basement. In lesser amounts, however, TCA can simply blunt aromas and flavors, making a wine seem muted and uninteresting. Recent research indicates that TCA itself has no smell, but it appears to suppress olfaction in such a way that presents as dull or moldy odors. Some researchers believe humans are sensitive to cork taint because TCA's musty smell is similar to mold in food, which could potentially be harmful to us. However, TCA itself has no harmful effect on humans, other than ruining your wine. You can safely drink or cook with cork-tainted wine, it just won't taste as pleasant. TCA is quite stable over time, whereas other aroma compounds are not. This means cork taint can become more prominent as a wine opens up or as a bottle ages. It also means cork-tainted bottles may not show obvious fault. It can make wines seem like they're just not very good, when in fact they were contaminated. GETTY The pervasiveness of TCA in wine In blind tastings for Wine Enthusiast, between 3.5-6% of the wines sampled by this author appeared to be contaminated by TCA or another musty aroma compound ("appeared" because the presence of TCA was not confirmed by testing). With 30 billion bottles of wines produced per year closed by cork, this equates to an estimated one billion bottles ruined by TCA annually. The Cork Quality Council states that 3% of the corks it tests are contaminated by TCA. If you are drinking one bottle of wine per day, assuming they are all closed with natural corks, you would expect to have 7-22 corked bottles of wine per year. There is a misconception that wines are more likely to be cork tainted if they are less expensive. The line of thought is that cheaper wine uses less expensive, and therefore inferior quality, cork. However, corked bottles of wine can be found at $9, $120 or beyond. The average price of a TCA tainted bottle of wine sampled from Washington last year was $43. How to detect cork taint Until the day when all natural corks can be reliably and individually tested for TCA and other musty compounds, winemakers and drinkers will have to contend with cork taint. The best thing you can do as a consumer is learn how to reliably recognize it. The best way is to start by smelling the wet end of the cork every time you open a bottle. Look for a faint or strong musty aroma. Then smell the wine and look for the same. The more you practice detecting cork taint, the more sensitive you will become to it. Soon you will start to perceive more subtle contaminations. SHOULD YOU SMELL THE CORK WHEN OPENING WINE? ALWAYS. Wine fault kits that include TCA can also be purchased. Keep in mind, however, that these will have a very strong presentation. You may have had cork-tainted wine and not even noticed. Individual sensitivity to cork taint varies quite widely, with some people able to smell TCA below one part per trillion and others unable to smell it at 200 times that amount. These differences are largely believed to be genetic, although training can help increase sensitivity. However, the taint can still affect your enjoyment of a wine, even if you are not aware of its presence. Individual perception can also vary. One day you might be able to smell cork taint at two parts per trillion. Another day, you might struggle to identify it at five. Sometimes you might smell a glass and get a whiff of it, but when you try to get it again, you can't. This is because the cork taint itself inhibits olfaction. In some styles and varieties, like many white wines and Pinot Noir, TCA can be detected at lower levels. Other varieties, like Cabernet Sauvignon, can require significantly higher levels of TCA for it to be noticed, due to the variety's often powerful aromatics, which can increase with oak aging. However, many people use the term "corked" to signify anything that is wrong with a bottle of wine, at times even for wines they just don't like. This is incorrect. The term should truly be used only for bottles that have a musty presentation. Even wine professionals trained to identify TCA contamination can miss mild cases. In such instances, the wine does not obviously present as cork tainted, but rather seems muted and disappointing. GETTY How to prevent cork taint Winemakers utilize a variety of techniques to try and minimize the presence of cork taint. This can include soaking a selection of corks from each bale in a neutral alcohol solution and then smelling each to look for TCA. If they find a contaminated cork in a sampling, they reject the entire bale. Some cork suppliers have also recently started testing individual corks for the presence of TCA. This, of course, adds to the cost. Unfortunately, there is very little consumers can do on this front. Once a wine is contaminated by TCA, it will remain so. TCA contamination has nothing to do with storage conditions like temperature, humidity or holding a wine too long. What if I buy cork-tainted wine? If you purchase a bottle of wine and detect TCA contamination, there unfortunately isn't a fix. Certain tricks, like using Saran Wrap or a teaspoon of heavy cream, can sometimes lessen the impact of TCA, but they also significantly impact many other attributes of the wine. Instead, you might want to bring it back to the retailer or winery where you bought it. They will typically replace the wine free of charge so long as you have your receipt. THE PROS & CONS OF DIFFERENT WINE CLOSURES This is true for restaurants as well. Though sending back a wine you suspect is contaminated might feel awkward, a professional staff will graciously handle a polite request for a new bottle. If the provider doesn't replace a corked wine, consider taking your business elsewhere in the future. Unfortunately, for people who collect wine or buy wine when they travel, certain bottles are irreplaceable. Thankfully, over the long term, cork taint is declining. In the late 2000s, TCA taint was said to be substantially higher than it is now, perhaps as much as 9.5% of wines. However, over the past five years, the percentage of corked wines has seemed to remain consistent. Beyond the glass TCA might seem like a wine-centric problem, but bagged, store-bought baby carrots often show high levels of TCA contamination. This is because the carrots are soaked in a dilute bleach solution, which can contribute to the production of trichloroanisole. There are anecdotal reports that baby carrots have in some cases desensitized people to smelling TCA and/or finding it distasteful. TCA can also affect other produce that is stored or transported in wood crates or cardboard boxes, like apples. TCA has even been noted in freeze-dried pasta.

Best wine with lamb: Great styles to try

From cassis-rich Cabernet with your roast to slow-cooked shoulder with juicy Grenache blends and cutlets with fresh Pinot Noir, there are plenty of delicious ways to match wine with lamb this spring. Chris MercerMarch 18, 2021 Credit: Scott Conner / Alamy Stock Photo Food and wine pairing Highlights Wine with lamb at a glance Style of lamb Wine style Lamb cutlets or young lamb served pink Pinot Noir | Rosé Champagne Roast lamb served medium to well done Cabernet Sauvignon | Syrah or Shiraz | Tempranillo (Rioja Reserva) Slow roasted shoulder of lamb or lamb shank Grenache | Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino) Search our expert reviews to find a great wine Which wine goes well with lamb? Many reds from the classic grape varieties are wonderful if you're looking to pair wine with lamb. We've focused on reds below, but white wines can also work with red meat. When matching wine with lamb it's important to pay close attention to the cut of meat you've acquired, plus how you are going to cook it and serve it. Below, we've looked at the three most popular ways to cook lamb. Pinot Noir with young lamb - served pink Lighter, tender lamb meat demands a wine that will not swamp and overpower the delicate flavours and sublime texture. If you do reach for a full bodied red, you run the risk of ruining your meat. A fresher style of Pinot Noir from cooler climate regions can combine lovely red berry fruit balanced by earthy notes, fine tannins and good natural acidity. Those searching for value in Burgundy could look to lesser-known areas on the up. They include Rully, where the reds have been stepping out of Chardonnay's shadow, or Fixin at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, and fresher styles from Givry further south, in the Côte Chalonnaise. Some top producers have outposts in these regions. It's worth looking at Bourgogne Rouge from the best growers in general, said Tim Atkin MW in this article on hunting good value Burgundy. Beyond Burgundy, you have a wealth of options. This could be a chance to see why German Pinot Noir is gaining plaudits, or you could look to Oregon in the US. There are many other Pinot regions to explore, including: Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Australia; Walker Bay in South Africa; Russian River Valley, Anderson Valley or Santa Barbara County in California Willamette Valley in Oregon. Rosé wine with lamb If you don't fancy a delicate red, this is your chance to reach for a weighty rosé such as Tavel or Bandol from the south of France. Don't believe friends who say rosé wines don't go with food. Alternatively, how about upping the tempo with a vintage rosé Champagne? Pink, tender lamb and a top rosé Champagne is something everyone must try once. Cabernet Sauvignon wine with lamb roast - medium to well done This is a classic. The meat will be richer in flavour and not quite as tender, so a roast like this can handle a fuller-bodied red wine. Bordeaux blends are made for roast lamb. The young Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wines of the Bordeaux Left Bank are brimming with cassis fruit, backed by a splattering of spiciness and - in the best versions - well-judged oak. You could try a vintage likely to be more approachable at a younger age, such as 2011, 2007 or 2006 perhaps. So-called 'second wines' from recent top vintages are also worth a look. Great vintages like 2000 or 1996 could also make a memorable occasion, if you're lucky enough to have them. A wine like this will take the meat to an extra dimension, and the bolder tannin levels in your glass should also make the lamb meat feel more tender. Good Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends can be found across the globe, too, of course. The regions to look out for are: Hawke's Bay - New Zealand California - USA Coonawarra & Margaret River - Australia Stellenbosch - South Africa Argentina and Chile - South America If you're not keen on Cab, go for a good Rioja Reserva with some bottle age, or look towards Syrah / Shiraz. A Northern Rhône Syrah will enhance your roast lamb. Some wines will offer a touch of pepper spice in the glass that can also work beautifully with the texture of the meat. Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Brunello with shoulder of lamb If you're slow-roasting a shoulder from an older lamb, you'll be cooking with a lot more fat content on the meat, which holds and seals in the flavour fantastically. That pronounced, gamey flavour to your roast means that we're looking for a wine with that great balance of tannin, acidity and a little bottle age to draw out the flavours. Grenache-based with a few years of bottle age would fit the bill. This is classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape territory in the Southern Rhône, although you could also look to South Australia's McLaren Vale or some of the great-value Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (GSM) blends in Languedoc-Roussillon. If none of these sound appealing, how about Spain's Ribera del Duero region? A young-ish Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany can also offer a lovely mix of bright red fruit, acidity, tannin and herbal notes. Rosso di Montalcino is another great option. A well-balanced Brunello will have the tannin to soften the meat and enough natural acidity to cut through those extra layers of fat. This can be a truly sumptuous match. Château d'Issan's head chef Frédéric Braud shares his deceptively simple recipe for seven hour roasted leg of lamb, plus his pairing suggestions. Once you've made your choice, don't forget to think about the serving temperature of your red wine. Updated in March 2021 by Chris Mercer. Originally published in March 2016 by Harry Fawkes.

Best wine with steak: What to choose

From classics like Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec to ways of pairing lighter reds and even white wine with a delicious steak dinner, we bring you top tips from our archive and bottles recently recommended by Decanter experts. Chris MercerMay 21, 2021 Lots of wine styles can work with a steak dinner. Credit: Photo by Edson Saldaña on Unsplash Ask Decanter Food and wine pairing Five classics for red wine with steak Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Grenache / Shiraz blends Syrah / Shiraz Sangiovese An evening with a succulent, juicy steak and a delicious bottle of wine is one of life's great pleasures, at least for meat lovers. It's always fun to experiment when it comes to wine and food pairing but here are some go-to styles and things to consider if you're preparing a special steak dinner. Red wine with steak Malbec red wines have become a classic match with steak, largely thanks to the Argentina-led reincarnation of this grape variety on the global wine stage plus also the country's reputation for high quality beef. Malbec's lush dark fruit and natural tannin are considered to match-up well with a good steak in general, but some experts suggest searching for fresher styles. 'I tend to choose a 'new wave' Malbec, one with less oak, fresher fruit and better acidity,' said South American wine expert and journalist Patricio Tapia in 2018, when regional chair for Argentina at the Decanter World Wine Awards. 'Especially ones coming from places like Altamira and Gualtallary in the Uco Valley, towards the Andes Mountains.' He added, 'Always keep in mind that the main task for a glass of wine is to refresh the food.' Cabernet Sauvignon wines, with their blend of dark fruits, tannin and naturally high acidity, are another classic choice if you're looking to pour a full-bodied red. 'A powerful California Cabernet Sauvignon with a grilled steak is pretty hard to beat,' said wine expert Karen MacNeil in her 10 rules to food and wine pairing. More options for red wine with steak 'I'd urge people to look beyond the traditional matches of Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon with steak,' Peter Richards MW told Decanter in 2018. 'How about a nice lively Cabernet Franc? Or may even a Carignan, Cinsault or cool-climate Syrah? Even a full-bodied but elegant rosé can work well on a warm day,' said Richards, who is DWWA regional chair for Chile and chairman of Decanter Retailer Awards. He said he enjoyed red wines that have body and texture but that could also refresh the palate during a steak dinner. 'The risk with steak is to think 'big meaty flavours = big wine.' Does Pinot Noir go with steak? Most Pinot Noir wines tend to sit at the light to medium-bodied end of the spectrum, and its profile is often therefore paired-up with lighter meats. Yet Pinot Noir's natural acidity and bright, red berry fruit can work with your steak dinner, depending on the style and the cut. In general, think about trying this with leaner cuts, such as fillet, cooked rare to medium-rare. 'I don't normally think of Pinot Noir as a match for steak, but the best pairing by far, when the meat was cooked rare, was a classically silky, seductive Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 2001,' wrote food and wine expert Fiona Becket after tasting several fine wines with steak for Decanter magazine back in 2007. How to cut it: Do you want a wine with ribeye steak or fillet? 'The easiest way to pair wine with beef is to think about matching the flavour intensity of your wine with your beef,' said Mark Quick, wine director for Hawksmoor steakhouse restaurants, in this in-depth article on pairing wine with beef. Consider the fat content in your meat, for example. 'More fat equals more intense beefy flavour,' said Quick, speaking to Decanter in December 2020. In her 2007 article on pairing different cuts, Beckett said a ribeye steak with relatively high fat content worked well with a Côte-Rôtie from the Syrah stronghold of the northern Rhône, and also a Super Tuscan - 'both generous, ripe and full-bodied'. She also recommended riper, more fruit-driven styles of red for steak cooked well-done. Sauce matters 'Sauces and sides will also be just as important when it comes to the choice of wine,' said Richards. 'Creamy sauces like béarnaise can go well with an oakier wine. Syrah can work well with peppercorns.' White wine with steak Why not ignore the raised eyebrows and forget the long-established mantra that a steak dinner is no place for white wine? Discovery is, after all, one of the most exciting things about the wine world. In an article from our archive, Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, talks about possibilities for pairing white wine with steak and other red meat. Options range from a mature white Rioja to thinking about how to subtly adapt the meal to suit other styles, such as Pinot Grigio, he wrote. This article was first published in 2018 by Ellie Douglas and has been updated by Chris Mercer in May 2021.

Wine with salmon: Ideas for great pairings

From crisp Sauvignon Blanc to juicy Pinot Noir and delicious Champagnes, there are plenty of options for salmon's different guises. See top tips below, plus newly added wine reviews by Decanter experts. Chris MercerMay 14, 2021 How do you like your salmon? Credit: Photo by Caroline Attwood on Unsplash Food and wine pairing Highlights Styles to look for when pairing wine with salmon: Style of salmon Wine style Seared salmon Chilled Pinot Noir, Chardonnay Smoked salmon Blanc de blancs Champagne, English sparkling wine, Riesling, manzanilla Sherry Herbs and citrus Sauvignon Blanc Sweet spice (ginger) or Miso Pinot Gris, Riesling Sushi Sauvignon Blanc, especially Sancerre Wine with salmon: What the experts say Salmon is a fairly versatile fish, so it's going to depend on the type of salmon you've bought and what you do with it. 'The wine pairing depends heavily on how the salmon is prepared and the accompanying side dishes,' said Jolanta Dinnadge, speaking to Decanter as head sommelier at Corrigan's Mayfair in 2019. Can you drink red wine with salmon? While it's a myth that red wine never matches with fish, it's generally better to avoid bolder styles brimming with tannins. 'An absolute no is to pair a full-bodied red wine with salmon as this will kill both the wine and the fish's flavours,' said Dinnadge, who is now group beverage manager of the Corrigan Collection. High consumer demand means that farmed Atlantic salmon has become much more prevalent on dinner tables, and farmed varieties also tend to have a fattier texture than their wild cousins. For seared salmon, and particularly farmed varieties, 'the obvious choice is a chilled Pinot Noir', said food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in a previous article for Decanter. Pinot 'picks up perfectly on the richness of the fish and the caramelised crust', said Beckett, adding that Chardonnay is also worth considering. What to drink with salmon with herbs and cream sauces 'Taste is a personal sensation and unique to each individual,' said Wilfried Rique, speaking to Decanter.com in 2019 as beverage director at Nobu Shoreditch. 'However, I would say that there are a few essentials that are good to know.' 'The minerality and herbaceous notes of a classic Sauvignon Blanc will match well with a salmon cooked with fine herbs and citrus,' he said. 'If the salmon is accompanied with butter and cream, you should go more for a Chardonnay with a bit of oak to highlight the fish.' Spices Pairing wine with spicy food doesn't have to be tricky. Nobu is known for its seafood and also its Japanese flavours, such as wasabi and teriyaki sauces, as well as spice combinations involving ginger and garlic, plus also South American influences, such as jalapeno. 'We like to choose a Riesling from Germany or a Pinot Gris from Alsace to enhance the flavours of salmon cooked with some spices, and sweetness from the miso sauce, for example,' said Rique. Drinking wine with smoked salmon From Christmas morning tradition to classic canapés and light summer lunches, quality smoked salmon has a timeless appeal. 'For a classic smoked salmon dish with onion, capers and a slice of lemon, a Riesling will be great,' said Dinnadge, who picked out Trimbach's Cuvée Frédéric Émile 2011 vintage from the Corigan's Mayfair wine list at the time. Others prefer sparkling wines, and particularly those made with Chardonnay in a blanc de blancs style. Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, suggested a vintage English sparkling wine with smoked salmon canapés when writing on the subject for Decanter.com. 'Thanks to its high acidity, it should also handle the saltiness of smoked salmon,' he said. 'For Chardonnay Champagne, smoked salmon on toast is best, with crème fraiche,' said Thomas Laculle-Moutard, of Laculle and Moutard Champagne houses, speaking on the sidelines of Decanter's Sparkling Exploration event in 2017. Writing in Decanter back in 2007, Fiona Beckett recommended manzanilla Sherry with smoked salmon. '[It's] not the most usual combination with smoked salmon but the most reliably consistent one,' she said. 'It goes without saying that the Sherry should be served chilled from a freshly opened bottle.' Salmon Sushi 'For sushi, as it is a small bite, I would recommend a crispy and citrusy wine, such as a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay,' said Rique. Sauvignon from 'Sancerre is a good go-to as it balances well with the acidity of the salmon but has enough strength to match with the bold note of the rice'. This article has been updated in May 2021, including with new wine reviews. It was originally published in 2019. Wine with salmon: See recent reviews by Decanter experts Carmel Road, Monterey Pinot Noir, Monterey County, 2017 + Add to My Wines Red cherry & fresh plum on the nose with a refreshing minerality. The palate is fresh and crunchy, appealing aromas of cassis, easy drinking. Excellent Points90 Pascal Jolivet, Sancerre Sauvage, Loire, France, 2018 + Add to My Wines The 2018 vintage was fresher in style than 2019 and lends an almost menthol dimension to the aromas here. The coolness complements the natural power of the wine, which comes from old vines grown on limestone soils in a single vineyard in Bué. The wine is lees aged for 12... Points93 Anon, Pinot Noir, Tasmania, Australia, 2016 + Add to My Wines Classy packaging for a classy Pinot from cool-climate Tasmania. A vibrant, limpid cherry-red in the glass. Fresh, crunchy strawberry fruit, some spice from the oak, silky, with supple tannins. Note the vintage - the evolution in bottle adds interest. Snap this up. Points91 Greystone, Organic Sauvignon Blanc, North Canterbury, Wairarapa, New Zealand 2019 + Add to My Wines Fruit-centric aromas of fresh gooseberry and pineapple, plus wild basil and silty mineral soil undertones. Just dry on the palate with the core of fruit driving the flavours: pineapple and apple, lemon and gooseberry. Plenty of refreshing acidity with a light saline edge. Well made, crisp, refreshing and balanced. Points95 Reata, Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley, 2018 + Add to My Wines Winemaker Linda Trotta produces this blend of Chardonnay grapes from selected sites in Russian River Valley and Los Carneros. Classy cool climate citrus aromas, edged in honey and ripe melon. The creamy palate has ripe citrus, juicy tropical notes and a mellow toastiness, with fresh acidity and a faint note... Points90 Union des Viticulteurs de Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru + Add to My Wines Appealing nose with notes of fresh apple, ripe pear and lemon citrus, plus hints of honeyed stone fruit. A mineral palate with chalky notes, ripe apple, and a seam of crisp acidity throughout giving lovely freshness. Clean, precise and elegant. Points91 King Estate, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2018 + Add to My Wines Classic Oregon Pinot Gris, this engaging medium-bodied, bone-dry wine leans heavily into peaches and pears, with a lovely, lingering minerality and vibrant acidity. Round and textured, the finish is tangy, fresh and refined. Points90 De Venoge, Princes Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, NV + Add to My Wines The grapes come from Mesnil-sur-Oger and Trépail, two villages of the Côtes de Blancs sector ranked respectively as grand cru and premier cru. The bouquet... Ancient Lakes, Eight Thousand Lakes Riesling, Washington State, USA 2019 + Add to My Wines This comes in at under a tenner as part of a mixed six, which is a great price for Washington State Riesling. It may be New World, but this has more in common with Mosel Riesling than with the often exuberantly limey examples from Australia. Expect a more restrained style,... Points89 Loveblock, Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand 2020 + Add to My Wines Appealing musky pear-drop aromas lead on to a just-dry palate of juicy tinned peaches and pears. The creamy, quite weighty mouthfeel is nicely balanced by flinty mineral acidity, giving a gentle but succulent wine that would be delicious with roast pork. Points91 Hugel, Classic Riesling, Alsace, 2019 + Add to My Wines Alsace entrances not just because of fruit purity and aromatic finesse, but because it does these things with an inner wealth, a structure and a sinew which eludes both its German peers and the dry Riesling champions of Australia and New Zealand. The fruits in this justly badged 'classic' are... Points91 Bodegas Hidalgo, La Gitana Manzanilla, Jerez, Spain + Add to My Wines A recognisable and reliable classic that's perfect as an aperitif alongside a few salted almonds and green olives to make you dream of Andalucian summer holidays. It's bone dry, clean, crisp and refreshing, with a briny tang and notes of hay, almond skins and fresh yeast. Points91

Wine with burgers: Pairing advice

From delicious Syrah to fresher styles of Cabernet Franc or crunchy, earthy Pinot, there are plenty of options for your next burger night. Chris MercerJuly 1, 2021 Credit: Photo by amirali mirhashemian on Unsplash Food and wine pairing Highlights Wine with burgers: Styles to consider Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah / Shiraz Grenache / Garnacha Sangiovese Cabernet Franc Grüner Veltliner with chicken burgers Rossese di Dolceacqua with tuna burgers Orange wines or earthy Pinot Noir with veggie burgers A brief burger history An ancient recipe book named Apicius suggests that Romans were eating wine-infused meat patties centuries before Ronald McDonald and his associates, including Mayor McCheese, were discovered living in the fictional world of McDonaldland. Other food historians believe 'hamburgers' evolved from the traditional Hamburg steak in Germany. Whoever is right, burgers are now ubiquitous and recent incarnations have turned the humble patty into an artform. The environmental and public health impacts of consuming too much meat are increasingly well understood. So, following the 'less but better' mantra, if you're going to eat a burger then make it a good one. And if you're going to have a great burger, don't waste the experience with bad wine. Wines with classic beef burgers For a classic ground beef burger, consider some of the go-to red meat wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. A juicy Grenache or classic 'GSM' blend could also be a great accompaniment to a night of comfort food, as recommended in our guide to choosing a barbecue wine. If you're a Malbec fan, then think about wines from cooler vineyard sites that may have higher-than-normal acidity, as advised by expert Patrico Tapia in this article on matching wine with steak. Wine and food matching specialist Fiona Beckett named hamburgers with cru classé Bordeaux as one of her 'secret pleasures' for a Decanter article back in 2007. And why not uncork a top bottle? 'I'm definitely a fan of brilliant wine and a burger,' said Jane Anson, Decanter's chief Bordeaux critic. A great burger with 'perfectly-salted thin chips and a couple of glasses of Côte Rôtie or St-Julien is pretty much perfect', she said. Beatrice Bessi, now head sommelier at Chiltern Firehouse also put in a vote for Syrah when she spoke to Decanter in 2019 during her time as assistant head sommelier at London's 67 Pall Mall. 'The structure, with the black fruit, dried herbs and smoky, gamey profile will work perfectly,' she said at the time. 'When I pair food with wine, every single detail matters, [such as] the structure of the dish, the flavour profile, the acidity, whether there are any spices.' 'For a burger I would consider red as an option, because the tannic structure can balance the structure of the grilled beef. Alongside Syrah, she added, 'A nice glass of Sangiovese from Tuscany, like a Chianti Classico or a Brunello di Montalcino would always work, where the acidity and tannins are able to match the burger, and the roasted herbs are enhancing the flavours of the meat.' Another option would be to prioritise the acidity and fruit. 'I've always loved Cabernet Franc with burgers,' said Decanter expert Michaela Morris. 'Not too heavy, bright crunchy fruit and even better with a chill, it is a refreshing summertime match.' While Loire Valley Cabernet Franc would be a classic choice, she also suggested looking at Ontario in her native Canada. What about the cheese, we hear you ask? A creamier, fattier cheese will likely emphasise the need for juicy fruit and good acidity, while a tangier, harder cheese melted into your patty might be able to handle a slightly bolder wine, such as a Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend. See our cheese and wine matching guide, but be warned that some things may not translate. Sauternes is often a dream with blue cheeses like Stilton or Roquefort, but its sweetness may not be so fun in this situation. Wine with chicken burgers or fish burgers As for any dish, a lighter meat in your burger means a move towards slightly lighter styles of wines, but with enough acidity and structure to stand up to the array of ingredients. Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, previously recommended Austrian Grüner Veltliner for chicken dishes that involve garlic, herb and lemon flavours; and this could be adapted to a burger scenario. In a similar vein, light, zippy reds can work with some fish burgers. 'I tend to eat tuna burgers much more often and one of the best pairings I've had with this was a Rossese di Dolceacqua [from Liguria in Italy],' said Michaela Morris. 'The salty/sour nature of the fruit and easygoing tannin just shone with fish.' Pairing wine with veggie burgers Natalie Earl, Decanter's awards competition manager suggested delving into the world of orange wine. 'It is often really textural with a grippy mouthfeel and a savoury edge with dried herbs like sage and thyme, plus dried orange and orange peel notes. I think orange wine pairs really well because veggie burgers are often herby and slightly spicy,' she said. She also suggested more earthy styles of Pinot Noir, such as village-level Burgundy - rather than riper Pinot styles. 'I think the more savoury, delicate characters would go better with a veggie burger. Something from the Côte de Beaune, like Monthélie or Maranges, would bring a peppery redcurrant vibe to the dish.' Experimenting is part of the fun There are many more combinations of burger and wine styles than we can cover in this article, of course, and experimenting is part of the fun when it comes to food and wine matching. If you're trying out your own matches, think about how certain flavours either complement or contrast each other, as Karen MacNeil talks about in the 10 rules of food and wine pairing. Search our expert wine reviews to find your perfect match This article was first published in August 2019 and has been edited in July 2021 with new expert reviews added. Wine with burgers: Recent reviews by Decanter experts E Guigal, Côtes du Rhône, France 2017 + Add to My Wines Considering Guigal makes about 4m bottles of Côtes du Rhône a year, with fruit sourced from across the Rhône Valley, the consistency, typicity and quality across all three colours is impressive. The red is generally released after a few years in bottle. The 2017 is a touch darker than the... Points90 Spice Route, Obscura Qvevri Red, Coastal Region, South Africa, 2019 + Add to My Wines Type 'qvevri' into The Wine Society's search engine and only two wines come up, this Shiraz-Grenache blend and the white wine companion - not from Georgia but from South Africa's Coastal region. The Spice Route winemaker Charl du Plessis visited Georgia and fell in love with the wines. He had... Points92 Château Léoville Las Cases, La Petite Marquise, St-Julien, 2016 + Add to My Wines There aren't many entry-level St-Juliens, as the appellation is so small and the majority are classified growths, so it's great to have this wine, and there's no need to wait too long before drinking it. The aromatics are excellent, and it's pretty tight structurally, with pure, crunchy fruit that's so... Points89 d'Arenberg, Tesco Finest GSM, McLaren Vale, 2017 + Add to My Wines Made for Tesco by d'Arenberg, which always gives a lot of bang for the buck. Bright and fresh, with spicy dark berry fruit, some pepperiness and a hint of savouriness. Very approachable, this is perfect for those who don't like heavier New World reds. Points89 Domaine Langlois-Château, Saumur Rouge, Loire, France, 2018 + Add to My Wines A fresh and crunchy Loire red, made from Cabernet Franc. The spicy cherry and white pepper nose is followed by a juicy palate with supple tannins. Harmonious notes of cherry and raspberry fruit, Mediterranean herbs, plus some ashy and floral hints. Points89 Tatomer, Meeresboden Grüner Veltliner, Santa Barbara County, California 2018 + Add to My Wines Freshly cut grass, lemon zest and flinty minerality on the nose. Richness of stone fruits on the palate with hints of spiced pear and apple; lasting finish. Points90 Le Pupille, Poggio Valente, Tuscany, Italy 2017 + Add to My Wines Bold and expressive, this 100% Sangiovese delivers attractively dense aromas and flavours of black cherry, plum, mocha and savoury herbs, plus bold liquorice and tobacco nuances. Finesse and power dance well together on the full-bodied palate amid juicy tannins and balancing acidity. Points93 Château Marquis de Terme, Margaux, 4ème Cru Classé, 2009 + Add to My Wines |Buy Now$52.00 Full of black fruits, this is a very pretty wine, stretches out with plenty of blackberry, liquorice and coffee. You can find other classified estates... Baron Amarillo, Monastrell, Valencia, Spain 2018 + Add to My Wines It's not often you see a varietal Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre/Mataro), particularly in UK supermarkets, and this is a great example of the grape for a snip of a price. Rich, dark and brooding, there's an appealing note of cured meat and pepper alongside youthful, fresh blackberries. Brisk acidity refreshes the... Points90 Domaine Bernard Burgaud, Côte-Rôtie, Rhône, France, 2015 + Add to My Wines Remarkably deep colour. The aromas rise up and envelop you. A great sense of generosity, concentration and richness, but also great freshness. Velvety tannins give... Dakishvili Family Selection, Kisi, Kakheti, Georgia, 2018 + Add to My Wines Giorgi Dakishvili and sons continue to turn out brilliant traditional qvevri wines, even if it's a challenge to keep up with their label changes (what... Domaine Roux Père & Fils, Saint Abel, Hautes-Côtes de + Add to My Wines Appealing nose of crushed raspberries, red cherry and plums. A hint of liquorice carries onto the palate, which is fresh and fruity, with bright cherry and red berry notes, crunchy tannins and a spicy finish. Points90 Marks & Spencer, Classics No23, Chianti, Tuscany, 2017 + Add to My Wines Cecchi, a family winery founded in 1893, makes this approachable wine for M&S. A classic blend based on Sangiovese, the supple, savoury palate has forward cherry-berry fruit, dried herbs and vanilla coffee notes from 12 months' oak ageing. Brisk acidity keeps things fresh and firm tannins provide good structure. You... Points90 Reata, Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley, 2018 + Add to My Wines Winemaker Linda Trotta produces this blend of Chardonnay grapes from selected sites in Russian River Valley and Los Carneros. Classy cool climate citrus aromas, edged in honey and ripe melon. The creamy palate has ripe citrus, juicy tropical notes and a

Pairing wine with Chinese food for the Year of the Ox

From dim sum to takeaway classics, here is our guide to pairing wines with popular Chinese food found in the UK and US if you're planning to celebrate the new Year of the Ox this month. Sylvia WuFebruary 10, 2021 Credit: Simon Reddy / Alamy Stock Photo Food and wine pairing Highlights Wine with Chinese food: Five styles to consider Riesling (dry, off-dry) Gewürztraminer Chardonnay sparkling wines Pinot Noir Gamay Matching wine with Chinese food can be somewhat complicated and is often perceived differently in Europe and the US versus China itself. 'Chinese food' is a vague concept, according to Shanghai-based sommelier Guo Ying. 'It only takes around one-and-a-half hours to fly from Japan to South Korea. 'In China, it can take up to seven hours to fly from one city to another, so it's not hard to understand why there is such a diversity of ingredients and cooking in different regions.' To complicate matters further, you may find your favourite Chinese restaurant tries to serve everything to your table at once. 'Chinese hosts feel guilty if they don't fill the table in front of their guests with food,' said Professor Li Demei in a column on DecanterChina.com. 'However, with such diverse flavours presented all at the same time, how would you pair them with wine?' Chinese takeaways provide a simpler, westernised approach to the vast possibilities of the eight great regional cuisines ('八大菜系'). You'll find familiar options and popular single dishes available almost everywhere, and so they also pose fewer difficulties when thinking about wine pairing. Here are some suggestions for pairing wine with Chinese food commonly found in the UK and US. Wine with Dim sum Among the eight great Chinese regional cuisines, Cantonese food is arguably the most widely found in western countries. Dim Sum covers a wide range of small dishes, including steamed dumplings, spring rolls and soya-seasoned meats. The relatively mild flavours open up plenty of options to wine pairing. 'Instead of using condiments to enhance the flavours, [the] natural savoury taste lends itself to be paired with wines,' said Guo Ying. 'The best shrimp dumplings must have smooth and translucent skin with a springy texture, and you can taste the freshness of the shrimp. Pork meat is added to enhance the flavours,' said Guo Ying. Try a still or sparkling made with 100% Chardonnay to pair with this fresh and light dish, or with other Dim Sum dishes of similar texture, such as Shumai. Food and wine expert Fiona Beckett suggested 'sparkling wine, preferably blanc de blancs Champagne, or a chilled fino Sherry' in a previous article for Decanter.com. Similarly, spring rolls with crispy skin and mild vegetable fillings could benefit from a fresh and clean white. A youthful Gruner Veltliner or green apple-tinged Picpoul de Pinet wine would fit the bill perfectly. The same rule applies to potstickers - pan-fried dumplings. For Cha Siu Bao (steamed Barbecued pork bun), the salty-sweet, rich fillings would pair nicely with a refreshing off-dry Riesling or a chilled Moscato d'Asti. A ripe, fruit-forward New World Pinot Noir could also do the trick with Cha Siu (braised pork bellies), though tannins may not work very well with the doughy texture of the bun. When pairing wine with dumplings in general, heavy, tannic reds should be avoided, because they are likely to overpower these lightly flavoured dishes. Wine with chow mein (fried noodles) and fried rice These hearty dishes can be served as a whole meal on their own: carbohydrates, proteins and vegetables - everything you need is packed in one plate. Fresh ingredients are tossed skilfully in giant woks over blazing flames, with plenty of oil, soy sauce, oyster sauce, spices and (optional) spring onions added. These greasy dishes, though satisfying, cry for acidity to refresh your palate. A Riesling with razor-sharp acidity, with or without residual sugar, remains the top choice, although we wouldn't say no to a linear English sparkling wine. Find more tips on pairing wines with fried rice here. Wine with crispy duck and pancakes This beloved duck dish bears some resemblances to the famous Peking duck, although it's generally deep fried rather than roasted. As many people know, crispy duck is delicious when served with hoisin sauce, shredded cucumber and spring onion, wrapped in thin pancakes. Fiona Beckett recommended 'a good fruity Pinot Noir from Oregon or the Sonoma coast, or a cru Beaujolais' for this dry and crunchy duck dish. Canadian-Chinese Master of Wine Jennifer Docherty believes that Spätlese Riesling is a better partner to Peking duck, as the dish is greasy and rich whereas Pinot Noir is 'quite linear'. Plus, a touch of residual sugar goes well with the hoisin sauce, she added. Wine with sweet and sour dishes General Tso's Chicken has nothing to do with the real General Tso, and orange chicken hardly resembles its 'origin' - tangerine chicken of Hunan province. That said, there's nothing stopping us from enjoying these richly sweet and sour dishes. Beckett suggested pairing anglicised sweet and sour dishes with 'aromatic white blends such as Hugel's Gentil or TWR's Toru from Marlborough, New Zealand'. Aromatic varieties such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Torrontes with their distinctive characters (and a touch of sweetness in some cases) should work well with sesame chicken. Residual sugar levels are a more important consideration when pairing wines with spicier dishes, such as General Tso's Chicken. Wine with Sichuan-style spices A cold sparkling wine can do wonders to ease the burn of Sichuan-style spices - be it Prosecco, Asti, Lambrusco or Brut Champagne. Again, aromatic white wines with Chinese food can work well when paired with dishes that have complex aromas from various spices. You could go for sweetness, too. An Auslese Riesling or even a lighter style of Sauternes or Barsac can work hand-in-hand with the spicy sensation. Beckett recommended 'a bold off-dry rosé (a pale Provençal pink doesn't quite cut the mustard) or off-dry Riesling such as Jeffrey Grosset's Alea'. Light-hearted, juicy reds, such as a youthful Gamay or Pinot Noir, also work well with the rich flavours and refresh the palate. Be cautious with powerful tannins and high alcohol, because they tend to enhance the heat. Sylvia Wu is editor of DecanterChina.com and a Decanter regional editor. Fiona Beckett also blogs on her own website, Matching Food And Wine.

BBQ Wine: Great bottles to drink with classic barbecue dishes

From juicy Zinfandel with burgers to rosé Champagne with salmon and Chardonnay with your BBQ chicken, here is some inspiration on the styles to choose if you're lucky enough to have sunshine and outdoor space this weekend. Chris MercerMay 27, 2021 Credit: Samuel Bryngelsson / Unsplash Food and wine pairing Summer wines Tastings Home BBQ wine suggestions at a glance: Here are some wine pairings for classic barbecue dishes. For ease of use, we've overlooked the uses of marinades and sauces. Steak - Malbec, Syrah/Shiraz Burgers - Zinfandel, Grenache blends (like Côtes du Rhône), Cabernet Sauvignon Sausages - Tempranillo, Gamay, Pinot Noir BBQ chicken - Warmer climate Chardonnay Pork chops - Valpolicella, Barbera, Riesling, dry rosé Salmon - Rosé Champagne, Pinot Gris, Chilled Pinot Noir Sardines - Albariño, Picpoul de Pinet Halloumi - Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Assyrtiko Veggie Skewers - Chenin Blanc (fresher styles), dry rosé, Gamay What kind of wine goes with a BBQ? There are few things better than a barbecue in the sunshine with a delicious glass of wine. Choosing a good bottle for your bbq wine can really elevate the occasion, although you could also look to a new wave of canned wines or bag-in-box wines, as well. Forget those days of washing down a burnt burger with warm Chardonnay or 'cooked' red served in a plastic cup, because you have a lot of wine options to suit different tastes and foods. If you're going big on the spice, then you could lean towards fruitier reds or whites with a touch of sweetness, such as off-dry Riesling, for example. Pinot Gris from Alsace might work better if your salmon has Southeast Asia-inspired flavours. Sausages with lots of herbs, such as fennel or sage, could be fun with a juicy red. A Grenache blend from southern Rhône could be a winner, particularly if you can find one with herbal hints of 'garrigue'. All-rounder BBQ wines Of course, it's unlikely that you're going to purchase 10 types of wine and impose strict pairing regulations on the occasion. There are some great all-rounder wines that tick many of the boxes needed for a great barbecue. Styles to consider include: Malbec Pinot Noir Gamay Dry Rosé Riesling Champagne and other traditional method sparkling wines Best rosé wines - 20 under £20 Top tips for serving wines at a BBQ If it's above 20°C, 68°F, outside then it's perfectly acceptable to chill your red wines. Even the most powerful red wines are best at 'room temperature', which is no more than 18°C, or around 65°F. Also, and this almost goes without saying these days, but avoid plastic cups if possible. First published in August 2016, with original copy and pairings by Harry Fawkes. Editing and wine reviews (below) added by Chris Mercer in May 2021. Great BBQ wine, tasted by Decanter experts Luigi Bosca, Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, 2018 + Add to My Wines Fruity nose of black and red berries, with a distinct note of black cherry. Ripe and juicy palate with soft tannins. Luscious black berry and cherry fruit is framed by French oak and sprinkled with spice, with some freshness on the finish. A crowd-pleasing, fruity style. Points91 Yalumba, Samuel's Collection Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia 2018 + Add to My Wines Named after Yalumba founder Samuel Smith, Shiraz grapes come from diverse Barossa vineyards aged between 10 to more than 35 years old. The goal is accessibility, with a strong varietal and regional accent - and it hits the back of the net. Very Barossa, with generous Black Forest gateaux-like cherry... Points92 Firestone, Riesling, Santa Barbara County, California, 2018 + Add to My Wines Lime cordial, wet wool, and jasmine on the nose. Slightly off dry palate with vibrant aromas of ripe lemon, fresh mango, and baked pineapple with a touch of pepper. Gorgeous. Points91 Spice Route, Obscura Qvevri Red, Coastal Region, South Africa, 2019 + Add to My Wines Type 'qvevri' into The Wine Society's search engine and only two wines come up, this Shiraz-Grenache blend and the white wine companion - not from Georgia but from South Africa's Coastal region. The Spice Route winemaker Charl du Plessis visited Georgia and fell in love with the wines. He had... Points92 Les Closiers, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France 2019 + Add to My Wines Châteauneuf-du-Pape doesn't come cheap, but if you're determined to have a red from this appellation over other southern Rhônes, then this is a good supermarket option. Aromas of deep red plums, brambles and herbs continue on the full-bodied, ripe palate which has mouthcoating tannins, decent acidity and a creamy finish. Points89 Reata, Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley, 2018 + Add to My Wines Winemaker Linda Trotta produces this blend of Chardonnay grapes from selected sites in Russian River Valley and Los Carneros. Classy cool climate citrus aromas, edged in honey and ripe melon. The creamy palate has ripe citrus, juicy tropical notes and a mellow toastiness, with fresh acidity and a faint note... Points90 Bodegas Palacio, Glorioso Reserva, Rioja, Spain, 2016 + Add to My Wines On sale from early April, this Rioja Reserva falls stylistically between the traditional and the modern, with fresh, vibrant fruit, and well-integrated French oak. Made by Bodegas Palacio, in the heart of Rioja Alavesa, it's drinking beautifully now but has life left in it yet if you want to keep... Points90 Le Grappin, Du Grappin, Beaujolais-Villages, Burgundy, 2018 + Add to My Wines Light, refreshing Beaujolais Villages with a hint of spritz from rising star Andrew Nielsen, an Australian incomer in Burgundy. Fresh cherry aromas; delicate, crunchy, tart red fruit in the mouth. This is all about the fruit, and really benefits from a bit of air. Unfiltered with no added sulphites. Points89 Morgen Long, Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2018 + Add to My Wines Fruit is sourced from six dry-farmed vineyards for this concentrated but elegant Chardonnay, given tang from wild yeast fermentation. Meyer lemon mingles with ripe pear and peach on the lively palate, where vibrant acidity brings clarity and finesse while subtle spice echoes against a bright, mineral finish. Points93 Lubanzi, Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa, 2020 + Add to My Wines The red blend in this pair of canned wines from Lubanzi offers more interest and character. This dry Chenin Blanc offers New World ripeness and warmth, with round appley fruit. There's no oak here, but the wine has aged on fine lees for six month in stainless steel. Straightforward and... Points88 Boneshaker, Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi, California, USA, 2018 + Add to My Wines Rich nose, slightly smoky with an herbal hint. Full bodied with soft supple structure, ripe and juicy flavours of cassis, smoky black cherry with sweet spices on the palate. Intense Points90 Filos Estate, Aspri Petra Single Vineyard Assyrtiko, Macedonia, Greece 2020 + Add to My Wines This single-vineyard Assyrtiko from northern Greece is an absolute bargain - snap it up while you can. It's the perfect wine for summer: pale in the glass, dry and lemony. The fruit is grown at altitude using sustainable practices, and the wine is aged for three months on the lees... Points91 Waitrose, Blueprint Fairtrade Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2020 + Add to My Wines The Blueprint range was designed to offer outstanding, great-value examples of classic wines. A South African Chenin Blanc at this price level is never going to blow your mind, but this is fresh and easy drinking. Bottled under screwcap and unoaked, it's clean with juicy stone fruit flavours. Some of... Points87 Santa Tresa, Rosé, Sicily, Italy, 2019 + Add to My Wines A vibrant and moreish rosé from the sunny island of Sicily made with a blend of Nero D'Avola and Frappato grapes. Summer berry fruits with citrus touches combine on the palate with mouthwatering acidity making this fresh and flavoursome. A great pick if you're looking for rosés outside of France. Points90 Domaine Vieux Vauvert, Vouvray, Loire, France, 2019 + Add to My Wines Good to get a Chenin on the list, and this one's a medium-dry style with lots of ripe peach, apple and pear flavours. The luscious palate is weighty but balanced by good freshness. This could work with spicier or sweeter flavours, like BBQ spicy ribs, or even summer fruit puds. Points87 Les Costieres de Pomerols, Croix de Bézard Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2019 + Add to My Wines Just like the shells on its label, this bursts with fresh ozone and seaspray notes. Time on lees has given a creamy weight to the brisk lemon palate, whose characteristic high acidity is perfect to cut through the richness of moules marinière or Friday fish and chips. Points90 Château d'Aqueria, Tavel, Rhône, France, 2019 + Add to My Wines Vibrant raspberry-red colour, as you'd expect from Tavel. Such lovely vibrancy on the nose - so much more vivid than an average pale rosé. Full-bodied, rich and opulent on the palate with great freshness and balancing acidity. Treat it more like a pale red than a

What's the perfect serving temperature for red wine? Ask Decanter

From misconceptions about room temperature to wine style, here are some key things to consider if you're looking forward to enjoying a glass of red. Chris MercerMarch 30, 2021 Wait! I need to get my wine thermometer... Credit: Zachariah Hagy / @zachhagy at Unsplash.com Ask Decanter Highlights Quick guide to the best red wine temperature Light, fruity reds: Serve these reds slightly chilled. Aim for around 12-13 degrees Celsius (54 - 56 degrees Fahrenheit), but some can go down to 10 degrees, too. Medium-bodied reds: Serve between 14 and 16 degrees Celsius (56 - 60 degrees Fahrenheit) Full-bodied reds: Serve between 16 and 18 degrees Celsius, (61 - 65 degrees Fahrenheit) What does 'room temperature' mean when serving red wine? The old adage about room temperature can be something of a red herring. Which room are we talking about, for a start? Essentially, though, even the boldest of full-bodied red wines don't need a serving temperature much above 18 degrees Celsius - 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Can you serve red wine chilled? As a general rule, lighter styles of red wine can be served at lower temperatures. Some light-bodied red wines benefit from chilling, too. When recommending lighter summer wines in Decanter magazine's September 2020 issue, Peter Richards MW wrote that 'good summer reds should be served at 10°C-16°C (50°F-60°F)'. He added, 'That's significantly cooler than many a summer's day, so don't be afraid to pop them in the fridge for 30 minutes before serving.' It can be hard to generalise about particular wines or grape varieties due to variations in winemaking styles. But you'd typically find Beaujolais (Gamay) and Valpolicella Classico (Corvina) towards the lighter, chilled end of the serving temperature spectrum. The below graphic from Decanter's archive shows how Pinot Noir would generally range from light to medium-bodied, with some styles of Rioja (Tempranillo) in the mid-range and then the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant and Syrah / Shiraz wines of this world in the full-bodied band. Credit: Annabelle Sing / Decanter Oak, ageing and structure Certain grape varieties just have more tannin, colour and potential to create full, structured wine than others. Yet the age of the wine and also how it has been handled in the cellar can affect things. This Bonterra 'young red' 2018 from Mendocino County in California, for instance, is made from Grenache with Malbec, yet it's produced in a style that would be ideal when served chilled, according to Decanter's Chris Wilson. If you've had a particular wine before and know the producer's style then you'll have some clues about what to expect in the bottle. As a rule, a fuller, more structured red wine can handle slightly higher serving temperatures. Chilling a red wine like this might amplify any oak or tannin present to the point where things could taste out of balance. Is your red wine temperature too warm? Equally, a red wine can become soupy if it's served too warm. Alcohol levels may then feel out-of-balance and the wine's natural structure and freshness can be lost. Wine is a question of personal taste, but these are generally considered undesirable qualities. Many of us have probably experienced a soupy red wine at one time or another, whether on holiday in a warm climate or in a restaurant that hasn't got its wine cellar under control. Don't be afraid to ask for the ice bucket for a few minutes. How can you get the serving temperature right? A wine fridge with temperature control is obviously the gold standard here, but a simple wine thermometer can also help. It might also be helpful to know the temperature of the room you're in. Trust your gut instinct, too. 'I can't recall the last time I used a thermometer either at home or in a professional environment,' master sommelier Xavier Rousset told Decanter in 2016. Aside from obvious faults, how balanced does the wine taste? If a red wine needs warming up slightly, then you can always cradle the glass in your hands to improve things. Watch out for temperature changes during drinking, though. 'The temperature of wine rises dramatically in the glass, so your classic 18ºC Bordeaux becomes (depending where you are) 22ºC or more in the glass very quickly,' said Rousset. 'The hardest thing by far is to maintain the correct temperature throughout the time of consumption.'

How Is Wine Made?

From picking to bottling, these are the steps grapes go through before reaching your glass. Written by Vicki Denig Published 11/19/20 Pin Share Email Image: Getty Images / Morsa Images Pick, stomp, age—simple as that, right? Well, sort of. Although the process of making wine is relatively easy to grasp, there are so many more intricacies to vinification than meet the eye. Harvest decisions, fermentation choices, vinification methods, aging regimens and bottling options all play major roles in how a wine ends up tasting. Although many winemakers believe that great wine is first made in the vineyard by growing high-quality grapes with great care, what happens in the cellar is just as important. We've outlined how wine is made, from picking the grapes to putting the final product into the bottle. Harvest Getty Images / Markus Gann / EyeEm Getting fruit from the vineyard to the winery is the first step in the winemaking process. However, there are more decisions to be made here than you may think. First and foremost, choosing the ideal picking date is crucial. Winemakers regularly taste fruit from their vineyards throughout the year to assess acidity and sugar levels. When the time is deemed right, teams are gathered and sent out into the vines to collect the fruit. Harvesting can be done one of two ways: either by hand or by machine. The former takes longer, though allows for more quality control and sorting in the vineyard (if desired). The latter is generally done at larger estates that have more ground to cover. Crushing/Pressing the Grapes Twenty20 / Tarynn Liv Parker - @thefieldguide This step is slightly different, depending on whether white, rosé, or orange or red wines are being made. First and foremost, if the winemaker desires, the grape berries are removed from their stems using a destemmer. Crushing follows. For white wines, fruit is generally crushed and pressed, meaning that juice is quickly removed from contact with the grape skins. Once pressed, the juice is then moved into a tank to settle, then racked off of the sediment. For orange and red wines, the fruit is crushed (with or without stems) and left on the skins for a given period of time to macerate. This is what ultimately gives red and orange wines their color and tannin structure. Featured Video Volume 0% Curbside Cocktails: Venice, Aperol Spritz Fermentation Getty Images / OceanProd The equation of alcoholic fermentation is simple: Yeast plus sugar equals alcohol and CO2. Fermentations can be done with either native yeasts or cultivated yeasts. Native yeast fermentations (or spontaneous fermentations) are executed with naturally present yeasts found on grape skins and in a winery's environment. Cultivated yeast fermentations are implemented by using purchased strains of yeast and adding them to the juice to execute the process. Spontaneous fermentations tend to take much longer and are often credited with producing more complex final wines. Aging Getty Images / Morsa Images Several factors come into consideration when developing a wine's aging (or élevage) regimen. First, the vessel decision is the big factor. Most winemakers will choose to age their wines in steel, cement or oak, although terra cotta or clay, glass and other vessels are also possible options. Aging wine in steel creates a nonoxidative environment, meaning that wines are not exposed to oxygen. This tends to preserve fresh fruit-driven flavors in the wine, and no external tannins or flavor are added from wood. On the opposite side of the spectrum, oak aging creates an oxidative environment, meaning that the wine has contact with oxygen. This allows the wine to develop different levels of texture and flavors. When new oak (as opposed to neutral or used wood) is used, flavors of vanilla, baking spice, coconut and/or dill can often be tasted in the resulting wine. Continue to 5 of 6 below. Fining and/or Filtering the Wine Getty Images / Stanislav Sablin Post-aging, some winemakers will choose to fine and/or filter their wines to remove any residual sediment from the juice. Filtering is done through a porous material, whereas fining requires adding some sort of substance to the wine (generally bentonite, egg whites, gelatin or isinglass) to the wine and allowing the sediment to coagulate. Note that residual sediment in wine is absolutely harmless and is completely OK to drink. Winemakers who choose to fine and/or filter their wines generally only do these steps for aesthetic reasons. Bottling Getty Images / Alfio Manciagli Once the wines are aged and fined and/or filtered, the wine is ultimately bottled and ready to be packaged. Some winemakers choose to additionally age their wines in the bottle for a given period of time prior to releasing them. Once bottled, the wines are labeled and sealed, with corks, screw caps or other closures, and are sent off to be delivered to your local watering hole or neighborhood retail shop.

Pinot Grigio vs Pinot Gris: Is there a difference?

This is another case of the same grape variety travelling under different guises, but you can find a variety styles to explore all over the world. Chris MercerMarch 14, 2021 Pinot Gris growing at Bendooley Estate in New South Wales, Australia, in 2018. Credit: graham jepson / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio refer to the same grape variety, known today for producing white wines of varying flavour and intensity. Pinot Grigio's heartland lies in northern Italy, while Pinot Gris has a particular stronghold in Alsace, eastern France. You'll find this grape making excellent wines around the world, however, from parts of New Zealand and Australia to Michigan and Oregon in the US. How does Pinot Grigio / Pinot Gris taste? Characteristics in different styles might include orchard fruits, like apples and pears, as well as delicate floral aromas, spices, honey and a touch of citrus. Some wines might show greater minerality, but others might have more weight and texture on the palate; their richness held in balance by refreshing acidity. Italian Pinot Grigio is sometimes associated with a fresher, crisper style. As Chris Wilson says in this article, the mountainous parts of northern Italy are more associated with characters of peach, white flowers and citrus. Alsace Pinot Gris is perhaps better known for richness with added spice, as well as wines that stray into off-dry and full-on sweet wine territory. However, this division in styles is too simplistic in reality, not least because you'll find Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris being made in many other parts of the wine world. Following a trip to Friuli in 2015, Decanter's Stephen Brook wrote that the variety that is 'difficult to pin down'. In northern Italy, though, there's a 'big gap in quality between the average supermarket Pinot Grigio and the full-bodied wines from the best corners of Friuli', he wrote. Alto Adige is also known for Pinot Grigio with complexity and depth. Speaking about Friuli specifically, Brook did note that 'Alsatian versions can also show musky aromas that you rarely find in Friuli, where the dominant aromas are pear and apple, though often with stone fruits or citrus to the fore as well'. For drinkers, however, it's difficult to pinpoint the style of the wine just by looking at the grape name used on the label, said David Way, wine qualifications developer at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust. If unsure, probably the best thing to do is to 'ask somebody to tell you what style it is', he said. That could be your local wine shop or the original producer should you get the opportunity. 'The key thing to learn is that there's more than one style,' said Way. Also known as...Grauburgunder In Germany, the variety can go by yet more different names. The Wines of Germany trade body says this can be used to indicate style. 'Grauburgunder denotes the sleeker, drier style, which harmonises with many types of food, while the richer, fuller-bodied and more fragrant version is called Ruländer,' its website says. Pinot Grigio ramato Another general stylistic variation found in Italy and elsewhere, too, is known as 'ramato', an Italian term used to denote a copper-like hue in the wine than can be derived from the grape variety's skins. This 'Pinot Grigio Ramato' from Germany's Pfalz region has candied strawberry, bruised apple and sweet spices on the nose, wrote Decanter's Sylvia Wu in 2020. Is Pinot Gris a dry white wine? Yes it can be, but not always. You can find plenty of bone-dry examples, yet you'll also come across deliciously rich off-dry styles. There are late-harvest sweet wines that have been visited by noble rot, too, such as this Zind-Humbrecht, Clos St-Urbain Pinot Gris SGN 1989.

What's the perfect serving temperature for red wine?

From misconceptions about room temperature to wine style, here are some key things to consider if you're looking forward to enjoying a glass of red. Chris MercerMarch 30, 2021 Wait! I need to get my wine thermometer... Credit: Zachariah Hagy / @zachhagy at Unsplash.com Ask Decanter Highlights Quick guide to the best red wine temperature Light, fruity reds: Serve these reds slightly chilled. Aim for around 12-13 degrees Celsius (54 - 56 degrees Fahrenheit), but some can go down to 10 degrees, too. Medium-bodied reds: Serve between 14 and 16 degrees Celsius (56 - 60 degrees Fahrenheit) Full-bodied reds: Serve between 16 and 18 degrees Celsius, (61 - 65 degrees Fahrenheit) What does 'room temperature' mean when serving red wine? The old adage about room temperature can be something of a red herring. Which room are we talking about, for a start? Essentially, though, even the boldest of full-bodied red wines don't need a serving temperature much above 18 degrees Celsius - 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Can you serve red wine chilled? As a general rule, lighter styles of red wine can be served at lower temperatures. Some light-bodied red wines benefit from chilling, too. When recommending lighter summer wines in Decanter magazine's September 2020 issue, Peter Richards MW wrote that 'good summer reds should be served at 10°C-16°C (50°F-60°F)'. He added, 'That's significantly cooler than many a summer's day, so don't be afraid to pop them in the fridge for 30 minutes before serving.' It can be hard to generalise about particular wines or grape varieties due to variations in winemaking styles. But you'd typically find Beaujolais (Gamay) and Valpolicella Classico (Corvina) towards the lighter, chilled end of the serving temperature spectrum. The below graphic from Decanter's archive shows how Pinot Noir would generally range from light to medium-bodied, with some styles of Rioja (Tempranillo) in the mid-range and then the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant and Syrah / Shiraz wines of this world in the full-bodied band. Credit: Annabelle Sing / Decanter Oak, ageing and structure Certain grape varieties just have more tannin, colour and potential to create full, structured wine than others. Yet the age of the wine and also how it has been handled in the cellar can affect things. This Bonterra 'young red' 2018 from Mendocino County in California, for instance, is made from Grenache with Malbec, yet it's produced in a style that would be ideal when served chilled, according to Decanter's Chris Wilson. If you've had a particular wine before and know the producer's style then you'll have some clues about what to expect in the bottle. As a rule, a fuller, more structured red wine can handle slightly higher serving temperatures. Chilling a red wine like this might amplify any oak or tannin present to the point where things could taste out of balance. Is your red wine temperature too warm? Equally, a red wine can become soupy if it's served too warm. Alcohol levels may then feel out-of-balance and the wine's natural structure and freshness can be lost. Wine is a question of personal taste, but these are generally considered undesirable qualities. Many of us have probably experienced a soupy red wine at one time or another, whether on holiday in a warm climate or in a restaurant that hasn't got its wine cellar under control. Don't be afraid to ask for the ice bucket for a few minutes. How can you get the serving temperature right? A wine fridge with temperature control is obviously the gold standard here, but a simple wine thermometer can also help. It might also be helpful to know the temperature of the room you're in. Trust your gut instinct, too. 'I can't recall the last time I used a thermometer either at home or in a professional environment,' master sommelier Xavier Rousset told Decanter in 2016. Aside from obvious faults, how balanced does the wine taste? If a red wine needs warming up slightly, then you can always cradle the glass in your hands to improve things. Watch out for temperature changes during drinking, though. 'The temperature of wine rises dramatically in the glass, so your classic 18ºC Bordeaux becomes (depending where you are) 22ºC or more in the glass very quickly,' said Rousset. 'The hardest thing by far is to maintain the correct temperature throughout the time of consumption.'

How to chill wine quickly - ask Decanter

The mercury is rising but your picnic wine isn't cool, so what's the quickest way to chill a bottle of wine? See this updated article from our online archive... Ellie DouglasMay 30, 2020 Credit: Polly Thomas / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Highlights Options if you need to chill wine quickly: Freezer If you're at home, then placing your bottle in the freezer can help to chill wine fast. 'You can wrap the bottle in a wet cloth then put it in the freezer for 10 minutes,' master sommelier and restaurateur Xavier Rousset MS told Decanter.com in 2016. Just make sure you don't forget about it. Even some Decanter staff members have had their own frozen wine disasters. The union for Champagne houses advises against putting Champagne in the freezer. Ice bucket It doesn't have to be particularly sophisticated, although an old bucket or washing-up bowl might not create quite the same romantic setting at the dinner table. The key advice is that you shouldn't just fill the whole container with ice cubes and expect to chill wine in record time. If you use roughly 50% ice and 50% cold water then the chilling process will happen more quickly. The water will help to transfer heat from the bottle. 'Use plenty of ice cubes (ideally crushed ice) in a bucket with some cold water and lots of salt - yes, salt,' said Rousset. 'Make sure the bottle is submerged to the top to be more efficient. Your wine should be cool in about 15 minutes.' Ice jackets can be a good way of keeping a cool wine at a constant temperature, but they don't tend to be as efficient in quickly cooling a wine down. Frozen grapes If you've poured the wine and realise that it's too warm, then there are some options. This method takes a bit of forward planning, but you could try freezing grapes and dropping them into your wine, which won't dilate it, as suggested by Peter Richards MW. You could also experiment with gadgets that claim to be able to cool wine quickly. Ice cubes (But it's controversial...) One of the most controversial methods could be to consider the pros and cons adding ice cubes. This is probably not a technique for your vintage Champagne - and many critics would say there is never a good time at all - but you might see some rosé or lighter white wines served with ice in restaurants, for example. Richards told Decanter in 2016 that he was in favour of people doing as they wished with their wines, but he warned that the ice can melt and dilute the wine. Best serving temperatures for different styles of wine White wines Light bodied wines ideally should be served chilled, between 7-10 ̊ C (44- 50 ̊ F), whereas ones with a bit more weight - perhaps an oaked style - can be served slightly warmer, at 10-13 ̊ C (50 - 55 ̊ F). Sparkling wines should be served well chilled, and the Champagne house union recommends serving at 6-9 ̊ C. The best temperatures for white wines. Design: Annabelle Sing / Decanter Yes, red wines can be chilled Contrary to popular belief, red wines can benefit from being slightly chilled. As with white wines, the lighter styles benefit from being served more chilled than heavier ones. However, even a bold Cabernet Sauvignon could be lightly chilled to prevent it from being served too warm. As Decanter's Rhône expert Matt Walls said, 'much warmer than 18°C for a red is too high. Its flavours become blurred and soupy.'

Which red wines are best for chilling? - ask Decanter

Summer is the time to enjoy a red wine served at a cooler temperature - but some styles suit it more than others. Follow our eight-point guide for the ones to choose... At a glance: What characteristics mean that you can drink red wine chilled? Low or fine tannin | Low to medium alcohol | Look to cooler regions | Light in colour Matt Walls' eight-point guide Cooler regions are typically a safer bet than hot ones. Think Austria, Germany, New Zealand, northern and western France, northern Italy and Sicily, northwest Spain, eastern Europe, coastal Chile and South Africa, as well as cool-climate US and Australia. Winning grape varieties are: Barbera, Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Franc, Cinsault, Corvina, Dolcetto, Gamay, Grenache, Mencía, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zweigelt and lighter Nebbiolo and Sangiovese styles. It's the style, however, that is more important than grape or region: go for light- or medium-bodied wines with fresh acidity and discreet, fine tannins. A pale colour is a good indicator - it suggests the wine has undergone a light extraction and it therefore won't be intensely concentrated. Juicy, fruity flavours work better than savoury notes, so opt for a young wine in preference to an old one. Reds that have a slightly sweet fruit character can work well, as the impression of sweetness is lessened at cooler temperatures. Avoid heavily oaked wines - oak tannins quickly appear dry and astringent when chilled. Wines with modest alcohol levels tend to be more thirst-quenching by their very nature, so as a rule, the lower the alcohol the better.

What the #$@! Do I Do with This? Port: What It Is and How to Use It.

There's much more to this after-dinner sipper than one might think. Written by Kelly Magyarics Updated 11/12/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Tim Nusog You bought a bottle of booze because a cocktail recipe called for a very minute amount. Now you're stuck with the remaining 9/10ths of the bottle and wondering what to do with it. No worries. Thrifty bartenders weigh in with tips and recipes for getting every last drop out of an underutilized ingredient so it doesn't gather dust on your bar shelf. If your only association with port wine is as an after-dinner beverage sipped by smoking-jacket-clad septuagenarians, you're missing out. Sure, port is perfect to sip by the fire or serve with (or as) dessert, but it's also one versatile cocktail component. Featured Video Volume 0% Curbside Cocktails: Venice, Aperol Spritz Port was created in Portugal as a way to preserve the country's red wines during their long, hot journey down the river from the vineyards in the Douro Valley to the town of Porto, where they are stored in warehouses and then shipped around the world. The main takeaway for using port in cocktails is that one bottle can do the job of several ingredients. It can add sweetness, replace vermouth, add multilayered flavor and temper the alcohol content of high-proof drinks. Talk about a multitasker. Just like with vermouth, once you open a bottle of port, it should be refrigerated and used within several weeks. (The darker the color, the longer you can keep it once you uncork it.) "Port mixes well with a wide range of ingredients, from fresh fruit and berries, herbs and spices to vegetable juices and teas," says Lulu Martinez, the director of events for Liquid Productions in Aston, Pennsylvania. Finish that bottle by mixing one (or all) of these three cocktails. Liquor.com / Tim Nusog Port New York Sour "Generally, port has a round, comforting, viscous sweetness that can play really nicely with Sours, Bucks and Mules," says Sarah Rosner, the head bartender at Bourbon Steak in Washington, D.C. "I have also noticed a trend toward low-ABV cocktails recently and think it will start shifting from a modifier to a base." A healthy one-ounce pour of tawny port in place of the traditional red wine will help deplete that bottle fast—and lend nutty and caramel notes to this cocktail. Get the recipe. Liquor.com / Tim Nusog Improved Dunlop "If you want to take a classic cocktail to the next level, substitute port in place of vermouth as your spirit modifier," says Martinez. This rum Manhattan uses a generous pour of tawny port instead of sweet vermouth. "[And] try utilizing white port the way you might a blanc or dry vermouth in a Martini," she says. Get the recipe. Liquor.com / Tim Nusog Lounge Chair Afternoon "Pink port has lovely hints of fresh berries and a light natural sweetness and makes for very sessionable cocktails," says Martinez. Straddling somewhere between a white and a ruby, this style works with everything from gin and vodka to tequila and rum. "Port's lower alcohol levels with vibrant flavors add a fantastic component for playing off other spirits." Get the recipe.

What are the best wines for spicy food?

Too much alcohol and chilli can set your palate on fire, but there are plenty of wines that match well with all sorts of spicy foods if you know where to look. Chris MercerOctober 11, 2019 Think about the aromatic profile of the spices, as well as the heat... Credit: Photo by Paolo Bendandi on Unsplash Ask Decanter Highlights A few styles to consider when matching wines with spicy food: Off-dry Riesling or rosé Grenache and Syrah/Shiraz blends Champagne California Chardonnay Sparkling Shiraz Ripe Pinot Noir with more aromatic dishes Search our expert reviews to find a wine to try There is a key choice to make before you start. Chilli thrill-seekers could meet the heat head-on with a 'spice booster' wine, as master sommelier Matthieu Longuère MS once phrased it in an article for Decanter.com. Those less excited by the Scoville heat scale may want a wine that mellows out the dish, without compromising the flavour of course. Off-dry white wines, such as Riesling, are often touted as a good match for spicy foods, because the slight sweetness can help to reduce the heat. Bold and fruity reds, such as Grenache and Syrah / Shiraz blends, or California Chardonnay with a dose of new oak spice are both options for those seeking bolder styles to pair with curry, according to Longuère, of the Le Cordon Bleu London. Andrés Rangel, assistant head sommelier at Indian restaurant Gymkhana in London, said off-dry aromatic wines and sparkling wines with a creamy mousse were 'safe' options for spicy food pairings, particularly if you want to contain the heat. But it's not always that simple, with such a variety of spicy dishes on offer. 'The most effective way to match wine and spicy food is balancing weight by weight, and contrasting flavours,' said Rangel, who recently won the Sud de France Sommelier of the Year competition. 'For example, in Indian food, we find rich and fatty dishes, made with cream or yoghurt. So we need wines with enough body to support those dishes and at the same time ripe fruit flavours to create a pleasant contrast with the spices.' White wines and rosé Anne Krebiehl MW, expert contributor to Decanter Premium and wine lecturer, said, 'For me, off-dry wines only work if there is also an element of sweetness in the spicy food. '[For example], there usually is palm sugar in Thai dishes along with lemongrass and mild chilli heat. Here, an off-dry, light-bodied Riesling - but not sweet - would be perfect, just to echo that nuance of sweetness. 'Look out for the term 'feinherb' (off-dry) on the label and aim for anywhere between 11-13% abv.' Fuller-bodied rosé wines can also stand up well to spice, wrote food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in an article for Decanter magazine in 2017. 'Rosés from the New World tend to be riper and sweeter than their European counterparts, and this is not necessarily an off-putting quality when they are paired with spicy food,' she said. Champagne and sparkling wines Sparkling wines can work with seafood dishes that carry just hint of heat, she added. 'I love to drink fizz and find that a rather creamy and really mature Champagne goes well with chili-accented dishes; like soft-shell crab or squid fried in a cayenne-spiced batter.' Red wines Krebiehl highlighted that spicy can also mean aromatic. 'I am a big fan of Chinese five spice, with its warm redolence of clove and cinnamon. Rounder, gutsier Pinot Noirs that border on plummy fruitiness work well here, but so does sparkling Shiraz.' Rangel suggested that it can be fun to think about matching wines to specific, strong aromas in the dish. 'Some of the herbs and spices used [in Indian cooking], such as cardamom, ginger, pepper, clove and coriander, are present in the flavour and aromatic profile of wine, he said. Those looking for a pairing with bolder wines could use this principle. Referencing his recent triumph in the Sud de France competition, Rangel gave the pairing of Gymkhana's Wild Muntjac Biryani - containing wild deer plus cardamom, turmeric, chilli, saffron, mint and coriander - with Domaine de la Grange des Pères Rouge from Languedoc-Roussillon. The Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon blend makes for a rich full bodied wine with floral notes, spices and liquorice, he said.

What is glycerol? - ask Decanter

We've all heard "This wine has legs". But what does glycerol, this colourless, odourless chemical, a fermentation by-product, bring to wine? Chris WilsonNovember 1, 2020 Credit: Big Dodzy / Unsplash Ask Decanter Exclusive Highlights Glycerol, which is also known as glycerine, is a naturally occurring chemical with the formula C3H8O3. In wine production, it is a fermentation by-product and can be found as a trace compound in most wines as a colourless, odourless liquid. If it's colourless and odourless, how do we know it's there? It may not taste of anything or change the colour of wine, but glycerol is important as it is a viscous liquid and can contribute to a wine's texture, body and mouthfeel. The weight that it brings can help to smooth off a wine's rough edges and while it has no taste it can bring a slight sweet sensation to wines, which can be favourable especially in wines like Amarone. After alcohol and CO2 it is the most abundant product of yeast fermentation and various factors can influence its prevalence in wine, including ripeness of fruit, grape variety, juice pH and grape nitrogen levels and source. It also plays an important role during fermentation. 'The production of glycerol has two important functions for yeast: to combat osmotic stress and to maintain the oxidation-reduction balance,' writes Dr Sylvie Dequin, director of research at the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique (INRA) in Paris, in a study for Lallemand Wine. It is typically found at concentrations of 4-10 g/L in dry wine but can reach levels of 20 g/L+ in late harvest wines which have been affected by grey rot (Botrytis cinerea). Writing for Decanter in 2009 Jeff Cox explains why botrytised wines have increased levels of glycerol: 'As the grape rots botrytis digests its sugar and acid, and excretes glycerol, which contributes to the silky mouthfeel of the wines.' Amarone is another style where higher than normal glycerol levels can be found and, by some producers, actively encouraged. The red grapes dried to make Amarone are often more prone to botrytis which in turn leads to heightened glycerol levels. Amarone wines with more glycerol content can offer a favourable textural viscosity and perception of sweetness despite being very dry. What does it offer to dry white wines? Some grapes benefit from the oily mouthfeel and texture that glycerol brings. Take a look at this tasting note from Malu Lambert writing for Decanter in June 2020 of a South African Semillon Gris. 'There's a tension; a pull between chalkiness and an oily glycerol roundness, with a saline edge and bright, pithy acidity.' Ian D'Agata, also writing for Decanter, found joy in how glycerol contributed texture to this Soave: 'Rich creamy dense maybe not the most refined Soave but lovely glycerol, almost tannic texture.' Is glycerol responsible for the formation of legs, or tears, on my wine glass? It was once believed to be the case that glycerol contributed to these ribbons of wine running down the inside of the glass, but according to Ronald Jackson's book Wine Tasting: A Professional Handbook it is ethanol, not glycerol that generates wine legs/tears.

What is premature oxidation? Ask Decanter

What is premature oxidation in wine, and is it still an issue today? David LongfieldJanuary 29, 2021 White Burgundies produced in 1995/96 were particularly affected by premox. Credit: agefotostock / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Highlights The vexed issue of premox - premature oxidation - in wine was a phenomenon that was first noticed in the early years of the new millennium, and seemed particularly (though not exclusively) to have affected white Burgundies produced in 1995/96 and on. Wines that ought normally to have been capable of maturing over a long period, even from top-flight producers, were found to be showing signs of oxidising and tiring well before one might reasonably expect them to - colours dulling or fading to brown, fresh fruity aromas and tastes disappearing to be replaced by bruised apple, honeyed, waxy or stewed fruit characters. The reasons behind the premox phenomenon were much debated and disputed at the time, and it's still not really known for sure what combination of factors may have been the cause. It seems to be generally agreed that prime causal factors in premox may have included shifts in thinking in viticulture and winemaking in the period starting in the mid-1990s, as producers were looking then to achieve greater 'elegance' and freshness in wines. This was arguably driven by producers' quest to achieve higher scores with younger wines in tastings and competitions, in an era when wine marketing and points-ratings were becoming increasingly critical to success, especially at the top levels. Was premature oxidation a sign of the times? It was also a time when producers (regulators and consumers, too) were becoming more conscious of the use of sulphur dioxide as an antioxidant in wine, and many were beginning to add less of it during winemaking, perhaps unaware of potential consequences in the longevity of the wines. The mid-1990s was also a period when global demand for wine was growing and production expanding quickly around the New World in particular, but prior to the widespread adoption of the screwcap closure or the development of the advanced synthetic closures that we're used to today. It has been argued that there may have been a resultant general decline in quality or consistency in cork stoppers. For wines, this can result in excessive oxygen ingress in bottles stored over a long period - and that's likely to include white Burgundies perhaps more than any other category of dry white wine. Climate change and its effects on the ripening of grapes (no doubt less understood 25 years ago); moves towards organics and changes in chemical treatment regimes in vineyards; shipment and storage through the supply chain and in consumers' homes or cellars; batch variation; bottle variation... all possible culprits, or contributory factors for premox. And, of course, the longer a bottle is kept before opening, the more one has to accept a greater possible risk that the wine inside it might begin to deteriorate, in the normal manner of things. Self-inflicted damage? In Jane Anson's 2014 feature, 'Premox: has the crisis moved to red wine?', she touched on the fact that, at the time, in the early 2000s, the implications of the premox phenomenon were so huge and potentially damaging that many in the wine trade found it hard to face up to. Anson cites Professor Denis Dubourdieu (who sadly died in 2016) of the Institute of Oenology (ISVV) in Bordeaux - one of the team who led a groundbreaking study into premox in white wine in the early 2000s - who said: 'We are used to identifying premature oxidation in the delicate aromas and colours of white wine, but when it [premox] was first discovered, nobody wanted to talk about it.' Dubourdieu believed that there was 'a similar scandal with red wine'. And, he said [in Anson's November 2014 article]: 'It's not limited to one region; all red wines that are expected to be aged for long periods of time - so Barolo, Napa, Bordeaux, the Rhône, Burgundy and others - are in danger of ignoring this threat.' Whether those fears were borne out or not is unclear, and may only now be evident to those still in possession of bottles from that period to open. But Dubourdieu's fellow researcher at the time, Dr Valérie Lavigne (now a global consultant specialising in the vinification and ageing of white wines, and still involved in research at Bordeaux university's faculty of oenology) took a philosophical stance on the issue. 'The problem is that many of us have become intolerant of acidity in wine,' Lavigne said. 'So winemakers do all they can to ensure soft, supple and fruity tastes. All of these potential issues [relating to premox] come from things that winemakers are [or were] doing with the best intentions. Ripe grapes, new oak, low sulphur use - these are all things intended to improve the wine and to benefit the consumer. But it's important to warn that it's possible to go too far.' Is premature oxidation still an issue? At the same time, there were those who doubted the supposed extent of the premox problem. Anson [in November 2014] quoted Dany Rolland, wife and laboratory partner of global wine consultant Michel Rolland, saying that it was really a matter of managing processes and correct winemaking: 'We have seen premox in whites, certainly, but have not found issues with reds,' she said. 'We are used to working with very ripe fruit in Pomerol, St-Emilion, Argentina and California, but we simply protect the fruit and ensure stable conditions throughout the winemaking process.' There have been other valuable and authoritative contributions to the premox debate published in various forums, from the likes of Jasper Morris MW, Clive Coates MW and Bob Campbell MW, offering varying opinions as to the causes and extent of the premox issue. Looking back, more than two decades on, it's probable that anyone buying white Burgundy for their cellar in that mid- to late-1990s period can count themselves as rather unfortunate. Caveat emptor... However, the issue of premox in wine seems to have abated over time, and the debate in the trade subsided. It may well never be possible to know what lay behind it exactly - or whether it was simply a symptom of changing times and fashions.

Dumplings and wine pairing - ask Decanter

What wine should you serve with your Chinese dumplings? The do's and don't's ahead of Chinese New Year... Sylvia WuJanuary 22, 2020 Credit: Unsplash / SJ Baren Ask Decanter Food and wine pairing Highlights Dumplings and wine pairing - at a glance Champagne works particularly well with fried dumplings, or when serving with vinegar. Think of ripe Chardonnays, or fruity rosés to go with your dumpling fillings. The stronger the filling flavour, the harder to pair with a wine Avoid heavy, tannic reds When speaking of dumplings (or in Chinese 'Jiaozi'), this encompasses a variety of fillings and flavours - from jiucai (garlic chives) and pork dumplings, baicai (Chinese cabbage) and pork dumplings to seafood dumplings. 'If you want to pair your dumplings with wine, it's better to choose light-flavoured fillings,' said Jennifer Doherty MW, head of brand portfolio management at Summergate Fine Wines & Spirits. 'The classic garlic, chive and pork dumplings, for example, are difficult to pair with wines due to their overpowering flavours. 'Pork and cabbage, Sanxian (pork, prawn and eggs) and mushroom dumplings, on the other hand, are more delicate.' 'I would pick a light and delicate white wine to go with something like pork and cabbage - I don't think you want a red wine. Try a wine that's got a little oak on it with good acidity - I'd go for a nice Bourgogne Chardonnay, maybe a Mâcon.' 'Personally I love Rieslings, so I'd try a Kabinett—with refreshing acidity with a little bit of residual sugar, to pair with it.' See also: Chinese food and wine pairing See also: Peking duck and wine pairing - ask Decanter What about the sauce? Classic sauces to serve with dumplings can include a mixture of soy sauce, Jiaozi vinegar, sesame oil, garlic and spice. 'This is the benefit of making your own sauce,' said Doherty. 'You can adjust the levels of salt, sourness, and give it a little bit of roundness to achieve a nice balance. 'It shouldn't be too difficult for you to find a pairing wine if you prefer a more savoury sauce. 'But if you prefer only vinegar as the sauce, finding a wine match will be more difficult, so try something with high acidity; Champagne could be a good option here.' How are your dumplings cooked? You may be asked whether you'd like your dumpling fried or boiled in a Chinese restaurant (although you are more likely to find fried dumplings in Japanese restaurants). You can also have your dumplings steamed in a dim-sum style. If your dumplings are steamed or boiled, the skin turns soft while retaining the clean, doughy mouthfeel. Flavours of the filling tend to drop a little if dumplings are boiled in water, so good wines to choose could be a creamy aged Champagne, a ripe New World Chardonnay or a fruit forward Grenache or Zinfandel-based rose, especially when the dish is served warm. Fiona Beckett also recommends blanc de blancs Champagne or a fino Sherry with dim sum, in her guide to wine and Chinese food pairing. Avoid big, heavy red wines as they would most certainly overpower the flavours, and tannins don't tend to work well with the soft and sticky doughy skin. A touch of residual sugar, however, can work well, especially with a meaty filling and seasoned with savoury, umami-rich soy sauce and Shaoxing wine. Fried dumplings tend to pair better with wine, as the skin gets crisper; a bit of burn on the bottom adds even more to the texture. If done properly, the filling should remain soft inside. As fried dumplings absorb some oil in the cooking, a chilled bottle of NV Champagne or dry English sparkling make a good match with fried dumplings, served cold or hot.

What Does 'Linear' Mean in Wine?

When it comes to descriptive wine words, the term "linear" can be confusing. Wine professionals deploy the term in an array of ways, and the dictionary definition—"involving one dimension only; progressing from one stage to another in a single series of steps"—is slightly different from its usage in wine. Jennifer Huether, MS, uses the term when she wants relay the story of a wine from start to finish. "To me, it generally means the wine is simple," she says. "One clear line from beginning to end, from the moment it hits your palate to the finish and lasting impression." Similarly, Élyse Lambert, MS, views the developments of a wine's flavor akin to music. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY "Wine, like music, can have different tones and variations, but when a wine is linear, it has only one tone," she says. "It's this lack of depth and layers that would mean linear wine, for me." WHAT DOES 'STRUCTURE' MEAN IN WINE? So, what makes one wine linear and another complex? Winemaking plays a large part. Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio are prone to linear-tasting results, says Huether, but winemakers can prevent that through techniques like lees contact, barrel aging, fermentation and malolactic fermentation. These practices impart more flavors, aromas and complexity. "These 'simple' wines that naturally do not have lots of aromatic qualities or flavors can actually turn into something magical with some care," says Huether. A winemaker who works with young vines, high yields and large production might create bottlings that taste linear, says Lambert. She would accept a lack of layers in an inexpensive wine, but expects more from higher-end bottlings. Therein lies another complication. While "linear" can refer to the simple pleasures of an easy-drinking, inexpensive bottling, critics also use the term to praise highly rated, pricey wines like Opus One and Gaja. While "linear" can refer to the simple pleasures of an easy-drinking, inexpensive bottling, critics also use the term to praise highly rated, pricey wines. Madeline Puckette, cofounder of Wine Folly, remembers being startled when she first saw "linear" and "laser-like" used in a critic's reviews. She believes they can be useful, however, and says that they describe very specific tasting experiences that people either love or hate. " 'Laser-like' and 'linear' describe wines with flavors and textures that seem to hit a similar spot on your tongue, or convey a singleminded flavor," says Puckette. " 'Single-noted' is probably the less desirable side of this type of wine, and I guess 'laser-like' would be the ultimate positive." In other words, there's nothing linear about this term. For some wine pros, tasting notes are a type of poetry. It's up to the taster to provide context for what they say and why.

What Does 'Garrigue' Mean in Wine?

Whether a Grenache blend from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a Bandol Mourvédre or a rosé from Pic Saint-Loup, classic wines from the Southern Rhône, Provence or Languedoc are often described as having notes of garrigue. In wine, the term garrigue suggests distinctly herbaceous, peppery or smoky tones reminiscent of the low-lying vegetation that grows wild in sun-scorched limestone soils along the Mediterranean, particularly the South of France. Rather than a single plant or scent, garrigue refers to a variety of aromatic, resinous herbs like rosemary, sage, bay leaves and thyme. It also includes shrubs like juniper and artemisia as well as lavender and mint. Throughout Southern France and especially in its vineyards, the heady perfume of garrigue permeates the air. It's a scent familiar to anyone who's opened a fresh jar of herbes de Provence. Garrigue is a classic example of terroir, the notion that aromas and flavors in wine are influenced by the environment in which wine is produced. More than just a romantic idea, it's increasingly believed to be a matter of organic chemistry. The scents we identify to garrigue can be attributed to aromatic compounds found in both plants and wine called terpenes. Alpha-pinene, the terpene most associated with garrigue, is linked to coniferous plants like pine trees, but also juniper, rosemary, sage, lavender and other plants common to Mediterranean climates. What Does 'Baking Spice' Mean in Wine? Alpha-pinenes are highly volatile aromatic compounds that can become airborne, transferring from vegetation onto the waxy surface of grapes growing nearby. Fermentation and maceration of the grapes during red and sometime rosé winemaking allows alcohol to extract aroma compounds from the grape skins and into the wine. Aromatic compounds can also be transferred directly into wine from pieces of vegetation that are harvested alongside grapes and unintentionally incorporated into winemaking. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY While the term garrigue is used most specifically for wines originating from the limestone soils of Southern France, is it a mistake, then, to identify notes of garrigue in a Nero d'Avola from Sicily or a Carmenère from Chile? Absolutely not! Those spicy, peppery aromas of wild herbs and underbrush can be found in wines from around the world. Elsewhere in the Mediterranean, similar vegetation is known as garig in Croatia, maquis in Corsica or macchia in Italy. In regions of the New World with similarly arid Mediterranean climates, garrigue-like notes are associated with wines from California (where it's known as chapparal), Chile (matorral), South Africa (fynbos) or Australia (mallee).

How Good and Bad Weather Affect Your Wine

Champagne lovers hail 2002 as one of the best Champagne vintages in a century but say 2012 was a horrible vintage for Bordeaux yet an excellent year in Champagne. What does this mean exactly? It all comes down to weather. The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) defines weather as "the annual variation that happens relative to the climatic average." This differs from its definition of climate, which is "the annual pattern of temperature, sunlight, and rainfall averaged out over several years." The climate doesn't change from year to year, but the weather can. Make sense? Vines are perennial plants whose life cycle is consistent. Vine dormancy and pruning occur in the winter—December through March in the Northern Hemisphere, and July through September in the Southern Hemisphere. Budburst, when the first leaf tissue of the vine appears, is the next stage, and happens between March and May in the north or September and November in the south. Then, around May and June or November and December, fruit set and flowering set in. After that, the onset of veraison or ripening, the most important stage in the process, commences so that between July and September or January and March, the harvest can take place. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY But various climatic influences can affect the way grapes taste at harvest time. "We associate higher quality vintages with ones in which the vines are able to achieve a natural balance with the given conditions," says John Hamel, managing director of winegrowing for Hamel Family Wines. "For us, with the goal of dry farming, we see this balance in vintages where we receive ample rainfall and cool temperatures throughout the winter period, and a gradual, gentle accumulation of heat and light throughout the course of the season." He goes on to say that "winter, any excess of rain, cold temperatures or dry extreme heat at any point in the season has the potential to disrupt the vine's natural cycle of vegetative growth to fruit development and ultimate maturation... [which] can be the difference between a great, good, and bad vintage." Grapevines need nutrients, sunlight and water to survive, so imagine how their health can suffer when they're deprived of one or all of these essential lifelines. They need to be tended to lovingly and caringly during their formative months, from the time they start as buds to when they become fully grown and ripe, harvest-ready grapes. For example, in that stellar 2002 Champagne vintage, the entire growing season was just about perfect. Spring was mild with no inclement weather to speak of, with a warm summer, and into fall before harvest, dry and warm days. Those conditions allowed for even ripening, which resulted in optimal levels of sugars, acid and tannins. However, sometimes things don't go as planned. Winter freeze can linger and give the buds a late start, shortening the already truncated ripening period. That's what happened in 2012 in Bordeaux. After that wet freeze, rain saturated the vines and created conditions for fungal growth. Vineyard managers had to contend with mildew, which can eliminate grapes' flavors or make them taste moldy. In the Era of Climate Change, is Old and New World Wine Obsolete? If that weren't enough, the heat wreaked further havoc when it spiked around harvest time, which had already been delayed due to the uneven development of grapes and frenetic weather. You remember photosynthesis from science class, right? It occurs when energy from sunlight converts to chemical energy to fuel plants' metabolic activities. Well, at 95°F and above, the rate of photosynthesis dramatically decreases, and will eventually shut down, causing heat stress. That's bad news for plants, and it was bad news in Bordeaux since many of those summer days were well into the 100s. Most grapes need near-perfect conditions to thrive. That doesn't mean that the weather has to be warm year-round with little precipitation or inclement weather. What it does mean is that whatever the region's weather, it is consistent and appropriate for the respective grapes' growth. Some winemakers, however, take a more optimistic approach to defining good and bad vintages. "There are neither good nor bad vintages, per se," says Michael Silacci, head winemaker for Opus One Winery. "A good vintage is a reflection of a winemaker's ability to stay focused and read the whims of Mother Nature well enough to make a classic wine that expresses time and place."

2020 FUMÉ BLANC Ferrari-Carano

SONOMA COUNTY 93 pts, Sunset Magazine! 91 pts CA Grapevine! One of the first two wines Ferrari‐Carano ever made 40 years ago, our Fumé Blanc is comprised of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from Sonoma County. $15 $12 Wine Club - Join BUY NOW AROMAS & FLAVORS This wine has delicious aromas and flavors of grapefruit, peach, melon, lychee, lemon grass, lime zest, lemon chiffon and floral notes with a hint of minerality. The Fumé Blanc has bright acidity and crisp freshness from the cool, stainless steel tank fermentation, while the subtle oak character from neutral French oak barrels adds body, complexity and depth. FOOD PAIRINGS Fumé Blanc pairs well with simple seafood and poultry dishes, and also holds up nicely with veal and pork. This wine has lively flavors that go well with spicy and ethnic cuisines such as Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese, Korean, Mexican and Southwestern dishes. HOW IT'S MADE This wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc grapes from various appellations in Sonoma County — Dry Creek, Alexander and Russian River Valleys. When the grapes arrive at the winery, each lot is gently crushed and pressed into stainless steel tanks for 48 hours of cold settling. The juice is either transferred to stainless steel tanks or older French oak barrels for fermentation. The wine in barrels is sur lee aged and stirred every other week for two months, then blended and bottled. THE VINTAGE The winter of 2019-2020 produced average rainfall in Sonoma County, with the bulk of rain falling January through May. Spring temperatures were mild and warm, with bud break two weeks earlier than average. Temperatures during the summer were above average, with few nights of fog and cloud cover. The month of September was perfect for grape ripening, and harvest was completed on October 2.

How can a dry wine taste sweet? Ask Decanter

Some wines can taste sweeter than they really are, with oak, fruit, acidity and alcohol levels all playing their part in tricking your palate into detecting the presence of residual sugar, says David Glancy MS, of San Francisco Wine School. There are four main reasons for wine tasters at all levels perceiving sweetness in a wine that is classed as dry and contains very little - if any- residual sugar, according to David Glancy MS. Lower acidity When two wines have the same level of residual sugar, the one with lower acid would seem sweeter. The ripeness of fruit Take white wines as an example, when you've got tropical fruits, such as mango and pineapple, which we would assume to be very sweet as opposed to lemon—we wouldn't expect lemons to be very sweet. Higher alcohol With all other things being equal, alcohol seems both sweet and bitter. So higher alcohol can make the wine seems sweeter. Oak The vanilla, caramel and baking spice markers [can] make our nose think 'sweet is coming'. When we put it into the mouth while still smelling it, we may think it's sweet, but there's no sugar. [Recent research has looked at how oak can induce sweetness in wine as it ages in the barrel - see below. Ed.]

What Does 'Fynbos' Mean in Wine?

Stroll off the beaten track of a mountainside or valley vineyard in the Western Cape winelands of South Africa and step into wild, straggly vegetation of every shape and size. Brushing through these bushes releases many scents: heady dried herbs, wildflowers, pungent spice and more. This is fynbos, the Afrikaans word meaning fine-leaved plants. Fynbos is composed of around 8,500 species from several key families—Restionaceae, Proteaceae, Ericaceae, Rutaceae and Iridaceae—many endemic to and part of the Cape Floristic Region, or the Cape Floral Kingdom. UNESCO added the Cape Floral Region to its World Heritage List in 2004, citing it as one of the world's greatest centers of terrestrial biodiversity. FYNBOS PINCUSSION PROTEA AT CAPE POINT VINEYARDS / PHOTO BY PIERRE VAN DER SPUY VIA WOSA Fynbos vegetation thrives in poor soils under tough climatic conditions and the Cape's hot, dry summers. Many types of plants from the fynbos biome can be found in close proximity to vineyards in the Cape Winelands, and can potentially influence a wine's aromas or flavors due to the spread organic materials like plant oils or pollen. The earthy melange of herbal and floral fragrances that fynbos offers can brings to mind Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, alone or blended. While these varieties may be often associated with the Rhône Valley, they are also widely grown in the Cape. The South African red wines of today promote an expressive aromatic range of fynbos influence. The aromas can be quite intense. After rain, the scents are fresher and purer, with the expression of petrichor—an earthy smell produced after rain falls on dry soil—elevating aromatic complexity. THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE MAIN WINE AROMAS, EXPLAINED The composite nature of the fynbos plants generally makes it difficult to isolate any one aroma. Buchu, one of many species in the genus Agathosma, meaning "good fragrance," is an exception. It is highly aromatic, resembling a peppery note often found in Syrah (the peppery taste in Syrah comes from rotundone, a sesquiterpene). The perception of "savoriness" in a wine, led by tones of herbs and spices, may also be augmented by fynbos characteristics. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Richard Kershaw, MW, produces namesake wines that include Syrah grown in Elgin, a cool-climate region. He believes there are several climatic factors that create the elegant, medium-weight expression the area is known for. "The end result is a translucent wine of medium-dark color, the accent on red fruit with black cherries but also vibrant spice, more savory than sweet," says Kershaw. In warmer areas like the Swartland, spicy, peppery notes can still show intensity, but are often deeper and partnered with more forward fruit characteristics. Floral scents can also be apparent, especially in Rhône-style red blends, redolent of wild rosemary or lavender. WHAT ARE 'LEES' IN WINE? Overall, given the breadth of different species of fynbos, it's easy to see why the many varied scents it encompasses could make for a confusing wine tasting note. But even if fynbos can't be defined as expressly reminiscent of a particular or familiar smell, its warm-hearted wildness should remind you of the attractively generous wines of South Africa's Cape Winelands, and the natural beauty that surrounds it.

What's Causing Your Wine Headache? It Might Not Be Sulfites

Sulfites have been said to cause adverse reactions in some wine drinkers, but a recent research paper by Sophie Parker-Thomson argues that bottlings made without added sulfites might be more apt to generate symptoms like headaches or watery eyes. Instead of sulfites, Parker-Thomson writes, the culprit is more likely to be a group of compounds called biogenic amines (BA). Present in all fermented food and drink, biogenic amines increase with food spoilage. They're produced from amino acids via enzymic activity in living organisms like microbes, most often a subset of bacteria. The best-known biogenic amine, histamine, is produced when microbes remove carbon dioxide from the amino acid histidine. Histamine is produced by the body and is involved in immune and allergic responses. If you experience hay fever, you might pop an antihistamine pill to decrease your body's production of this biogenic amine. Other biogenic amines found in food and wine include tyramine, putrescine and phenylethylamine. In large amounts, all can cause unpleasant side effects. It would be wrong to think of them as toxins, however, because each performs essential physiological roles. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Normally, dietary biogenic amines aren't a problem because enzymes called monoamine oxidases (MAO) and diamine oxidases (DAO) metabolize them. But if these enzymes are inhibited, or if the compounds are present in excessive levels in food or drink, then they can cause responses like headaches, breathing difficulties, hypertension or hypotension, allergic reactions and palpitations. WINE SAMPLES FOR MALOLACTIC FERMENTATION STUDIES / COURTESY LALLEMAND OENOLOGY Almost all wines have some sulfites added because they can ward off bad microbes and protect from oxidation. But at higher levels, some asthmatics experience adverse reactions. A wine with more than 10 milligrams per liter (mg/L) of sulfur dioxide must declare it "contains sulfites" on the label. Because of this, people who suffer adverse effects to some wines may blame it on the sulfites. Fortunately, it's simple to make wines with low biogenic amines by controlling microbial growth. A blast of sulfur dioxide at grape reception or crushing will eliminate bacteria and many wild yeasts from developing during the early stages of fermentation. "Higher pH and minimum SO2 addition certainly favor biogenic amine production, even at an early stage of reception of grapes," says Dr. Sibylle Krieger, head of research on wine bacteria at Lallemand Oenoloy. A dose of sulfur dioxide also clears the path for winemakers to add a selected strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae for fermentation. When finished, winemakers might choose to inoculate malolactic fermentation through a specific strain of lactic acid bacteria that has low biogenic amine production. Finally, the wine receives another substantial dose of sulfur dioxide to further protect against biogenic amines. If you want to achieve low sulfite levels, Krieger says, it's best to inoculate the wine to inhibit biogenic amine production. This prevents the bad microbes from taking residence. Many commercial wines are made with these biogenic-amine-safe methods, but in recent years, premium wine producers have moved away from microbial control. And many natural wine proponents either avoid sulfites completely or add them only at bottling, resulting in wines that can have ample biogenic amines. DR. SIBYLLE KRIEGER / COURTESY LALLEMAND OENOLOGY And so, the question for all winemakers to consider is: How much is too much BA? There are no legal limits in food, apart from fish. Will biogenic amines in wines, even those made without added sulfites, ever be problematic for the vast majority of consumers? In her research paper, Parker-Thomson implies that wines made no added sulfites should have a warning label. "There is also a strong argument that wines with very high BA levels should carry a warning, as these toxic levels pose a risk even to healthy individuals when moderate amounts of these wines are consumed," she writes. "The results of this study show that wines made with no-low-SO2 are most likely to have the highest BA levels. "If SO2 additions are unconscionable for the natural wine movement perhaps zero-added- SO2 wines should carry a mandatory high-BA warning unless they can prove otherwise," she writes. FRANCE LAUNCHES OFFICIAL NATURAL WINE CERTIFICATION. DOES ANYONE REALLY WANT IT? Doug Wregg, who works for Les Caves de Pyrene, a UK-based import agency that specializes in natural wine, takes issue with this. "This smacks of bureaucratic meddling, but it is based on a weird inversion of the truth," says Wregg. "Wine contains a myriad of substances, which may only be injurious to health when consumed in very high quantities. When you look at the lab results, there are traces of mercury in many wines. Would you put 'contains mercury' on the label?" He compares BA to sulfites, which are present in an array of foods. He mentions a recent, potentially allergic reaction he had to sulfites in mortadella. "Sulfite in itself is not toxic, but our diet, our lifestyle, can create intolerances and allergic reactions which are triggered by high sulfite levels," he says. "At least, according to my experience. "Finally, there is the thin-end-of-the-wedge argument," he says. "Labeling a wine as having high biogenic amines, which is a feature, rather than additive, you might as well add every single addition and process, in case one or other, singly or in combination, has a health implication for a particular individual. Most histamine-intolerant individuals know not to drink wine, red wine in particular." DOUG WREGG / PHOTO BY HESH HIPP Wine isn't particularly high in BA when compared to published levels found in other foods. Red wine contains 19.6 mg/L of histamine, while white wine has just 1.1 mg/L. Two-day old fish contains 209 mg/L, while canned tuna (60 mg/L), fermented soy (46.2 mg/L) and fresh fish (23 mg/L) all contain more histamines than wine. BA content is difficult to legislate because we don't know what levels are dangerous to most people. And individual reactions can vary dramatically. Some antidepressants can inhibit enzymes and cause amine sensitivity. Smokers reportedly show a 30% reduction in the activity of these enzymes. Alcohol can also suppress their activity. If authorities insist on a low-BA winemaking protocol, this would effectively kill the natural wine movement. To analyze wines for biogenic amines would place a significant cost and administrative burden on winegrowers. Not everyone is convinced that biogenic amines are a problem in wine. "There has always been some confusion between allergic responses to certain wines, and the first jump is usually that it is due to one of the biogenic amines," says wine scientist Roger Boulton, professor emeritus of enology at University of California, Davis. "I have never been convinced... that there is a link or an issue." Others point out that alcohol itself is a toxin. "Given that wine has typically 12-14% ethanol, a known carcinogen, I personally choose not to worry about these small concentrations of biogenic amines," says Marcus Herderich of the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI), an industry group. WHEN DID 'MALO' BECOME A BAD WORD? The AWRI surveyed mean histamine concentrations in Australian red and white wines from 2003-2009 and found they contained 1.75 and 0.59 mg/L, respectively. Its study claims that the levels of histamine needed to cause physiological responses would need to be much larger. "Adding unnecessary and unwarranted health warnings doesn't help anyone in the sector," says Herderich. "The principle of labeling for any potential problem compound in wine is complete nonsense." For wine lovers who are sensitive to biogenic amines, it might be best to avoid those that have been through malolactic fermentation. This information can be hard to find, though it includes some Chardonnays and Viogniers, and most red wines. If reds are desired, seek those from a big brand that's likely to include hefty doses of sulfur dioxide from the start. But it's too soon, and perhaps counterproductive, to start flagging biogenic amines in wine as a health hazard. [Editor's note: This piece was updated 6/14/21 to reframe Sophie Parker-Thomson's research.]

War, Revolution and Tsarine: How Russia Shaped Champagne

The centuries-old relationship between Russia and France spans wars, revolutions and a deep appreciation of Champagne. The sparkling wine was first popularized in 18th-century imperial Russia during the reign of Empress Anna Ivanovna (1730-40). During her successor, Elizabeth Petrovna's reign (1741-62), it wasn't uncommon to serve 1,000 bottles of Champagne at a single event. The bottles of Chanoine Frères, one of the oldest Champagne houses, graced the tables of notables like Czarina Catherine II, better known as Catherine the Great. But it wasn't until Russians encountered Veuve Clicquot's Champagne that they fell in love with the wine. Portrait of Madame Clicquot of Veuve Clicquot / Getty Champagne and the Napoleonic Wars Russian consumption of the sparkling wine outside of nobility took off during the Napoleonic Wars (1800-15), when troops occupied Champagne and pillaged the region's vineyards. In the short term, this was devastating for Champagne producers like Veuve Clicquot, helmed by Madame Clicquot at the time. But she was able to turn this inventory loss to her advantage. Madame Clicquot, pioneer of disgorging, was the first woman to head a Champagne house. Rather than hide her bottles from the invading army, she plied them with it. It was during this time that she was said to have uttered the famous phrase: "Today they drink; tomorrow they will pay." SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY But for years, Clicquot kept her 1811 vintage, regarded as the first modern Champagne because it was sediment free. When the Napoleonic Wars were nearly over and her money was nearly gone, Madame Clicquot defied French trade blockades to bring her Champagne to Russia. In 1814, she loaded the last of her Champagne in secret onto a Russia-bound ship. If the ship was caught, or sank, or the journey ruined the bottles, she would've been bankrupt and possibly imprisoned. Fortunately, none of that happened, and her Champagne arrived in Königsberg (modern-day Kaliningrad) safely. Her earlier efforts and sacrifices paid off. The Russians greeted her Champagne's arrival with great enthusiasm. They remembered her high-quality beverage and lined up to buy her product. Not only was her business saved, it cemented her Champagne as the finest in the world. Champagne, which for a time was referred to simply as Clicquot, became so popular in Russia that it remained the second-largest consumer of bubbly until the Russian Revolution. Czar Alexander I even declared that Clicquot's 1811 vintage, known as "The Year of the Comet," was all he would drink. Novy Svet / Alamy Russia makes its own sparkling wine Russian enthusiasm for Champagne was so strong that the country started to produce its own sparkling wine. Prince Lev Golitsyn (1845-1916) is widely regarded as the founder of the practice, which developed out of his experiments on his estate in Crimea, situated just below Ukraine on the Black Sea. In 1900, Golitsyn took his wine to the Exposition Universelle in Paris. Also called the Paris Exposition, it was a world's fair to recognize the achievements of the past century and encourage further innovation. His sparkling wine, made at his estate Novyi Svet, beat the French wines in a blind taste test, which earned Russia the coveted Grand Prix de Champagne. A Beginner's Guide to Champagne The popularity of Champagne with Russian royalty continued to increase during the 19th century. Louis Roederer shipped many of his finer bottles to Russia. In 1876, he created Cristal, regarded by many as the first prestige cuvée, at the request of Czar Alexander II. Its name comes from the clear crystal used originally to manufacture the bottles. Due to his paranoia, Alexander II insisted the bottles be clear to prevent bombs being placed in or under them. Louis Roederer in Reims, France / Alamy The Russian Revolution and Champagne Russian interest in Champagne was halted abruptly with the Russian Revolution (1917-23), when "decadent" foreign imports were prohibited under Soviet rule. At Soviet strongman Joseph Stalin's request, the country began to manufacture its own sparkling wine, Sovetskoye Shampanskoye. This mass-produced sparkling wine was syrupy sweet and suitable for the proletariat. Though too expensive for everyday consumption, it was an essential element of celebratory events like New Year's Eve. Although Sovetskoye Shampanskoye can still be purchased from private manufacturers, few would recommend it. Rather than continue the Soviet approach to create sparkling wine in enormous vats, modern Russian producers are returning to traditional methods either not feasible or forbidden under Stalin. Portrait of Tsar Nicholas II / Alamy Champagne in today's Russia Russia continues to produce its own sparkling wine, but it has again become one of the world's leading importers of Champagne. Champagne producers understand the importance that Russia has played in the continued popularity of their wine. In 1996, Maison Chanoine Frères honored the women of the Russian nobility who helped bolster Champagne's popularity throughout Europe during the Age of Enlightenment (1685-1815) with a new release, Tsarine. All the Grapes Used in Champagne, Explained Everything about Tsarine, from the curved bottle modeled after the domes of St. Basil's to the name, are evocative of the period of Russian history. Despite numerous ups and downs since the 1700s, Russia's relationship with Champagne remains strong. It buys about 215 million bottles of Champagne every year. Around 53 million of those bottles are consumed during or around New Year's celebrations. If history is any indication, Russia and Champagne will enjoy a close relationship far into the future.

Sulfites, Legs and Other Misinformation Campaigns in Wine

As with diet advice and vaccine science, wine professionals aren't immune to the human tendency to cling to misinformation. Myths abound. Bad information is passed from consumer to consumer, restaurant manager to fledgling wine pro, and marketing companies to the masses. They stick, because it's often easier to remember bad information than investigate everything. It's a situation complicated by the intimidating and esoteric nature of wine. "We often assume sources are reliable," says Northwestern University psychology professor David Rapp in a study of why people rely on inaccurate information. "It's not that people are lazy, though that could certainly contribute to the problem. It's the computational task of evaluating everything that is arduous and difficult, as we attempt to preserve resources for when we really need them." Wine myths are often born when everyday drinking experiences are hard, or require an expert level of knowledge to explain. ILLUSTRATION BY SUSANNA HARRISON Wine legs, decanting and lunar cycles "One claim I'm wary of is the idea that certain wines taste better on certain days based on the lunar calendar," says Drew Brady, wine director of New York City's Overthrow Hospitality. This refers to the belief among biodynamic practitioners that the lunar cycle and its elemental signs (earth, air, water and fire) influence how a wine tastes on corresponding days (deemed root, flower, leaf or fruit days). "There is no shortage of passionate arguments on both sides, but I'm really hard-pressed to believe that a red wine tastes better on a 'fruit day' than it does on 'root day,' " he says. "I'm all in on low-intervention winemaking and biodynamic farming, but once it's in the bottle, I'm settled...unless I'm missing something." While at least one study has debunked the lunar cycle's influence on taste, many Demeter-certified wineries won't host tastings on certain days, and apps instruct users when to enjoy or avoid certain wines. SUBSCRIBE TO WINE ENTHUSIAST NEWSLETTERSGet the latest news, reviews, recipes and gear sent to your inbox. SIGN UP PRIVACY POLICY Most misconceptions in wine, though, are a lot less mystical and much easier to refute. In the tasting room of Frichette Winery in Benton City, Washington, co-owner and co-winemaker Shae Frichette observes guests swirling glasses of Petite Verdot and Malbec, saying "Ooooh, look at the legs. This is a good wine." Legs, the rivulets that run down the sides of a glass, indicate a wine's alcohol level and, sometimes, its sugar content. (To truly understand the phenomenon, a general understanding of fluid dynamics is helpful.) Legs have no bearing on a wine's quality, yet Frichette hears the same story again and again. Many of Frichette's customers also are convinced that wine, regardless of its age or how it was made, needs to be decanted. WHEN SHOULD YOU DECANT WINE? Conversely, Jonathan Pullis, a Master Sommelier and wine director at 7908 Aspen, finds guests reluctant to decant Pinot Noirs, especially aged red Burgundies. "Guests think it's too delicate, that the wine will fall apart," he says. "But these wines are alive, and they need oxygen to wake up." Whether to a decant wine, and for how long, depends on a host of factors. The best way to determine what to do is to taste the wine. If a wine is tight, reticent and not forthcoming, Pullis recommends decanting it for a few hours, and letting the wine slowly warm up to 68°F. However, the process requires familiarity with the wine, an understanding of what makes it "tight" and the right storage conditions. ILLUSTRATION BY SUSANNA HARRISON Color, sulfites and other (un)natural flavorings In nearly every class he teaches, Erik Segelbaum, founder of wine consultancy Somlyay, listens to stories about sulfite allergies or headaches attributed to their presence in red wine. "It's nails on a chalkboard to me," he says. "People misunderstand what sulfites really are. It's an organic compound, a natural chemical, that forms naturally during fermentation. All wines have sulfites. Sulfites prevent bacteriological spoilage, kill active yeast and prevent rot." While an estimated 1% of people have sulfite sensitivity, the vast majority of folks that feel like crap after they drink wine probably just consumed too much without hydrating. All kinds of food and drink contain sulfites: dried fruit, charcuterie, beer, soda and French fries. Still, there are very few reports of headaches from sausage or dried apricots. Also, contrary to popular belief, producers tend to add more sulfites to white wines than red, whose tannins work as a preservative. Also, sulfite levels in European wines are just as high as those in U.S. bottlings. "It's nails on a chalkboard to me. People misunderstand what sulfites really are. It's an organic compound, a natural chemical, that forms naturally during fermentation. All wines have sulfites." —Erik Segelbaum, Somlyay Producers outside the U.S. aren't often required to slap the disclaimer "contains sulfites" on their labels. Overindulgence aside, Pullis says wine headaches can stem from any number of things present in wine. "It's about what's going on in wine in totality, not just sulfites." WHAT'S CAUSING YOUR WINE HEADACHE? IT MIGHT NOT BE SULFITES When Joe Catalino came up in the industry, he was taught one of the biggest myths of all: that wine was made simply from grapes. "Unfortunately, that isn't the case when it comes to many wines produced in America," says Catalino, a Bay Area sommelier and owner of What To Drink. "There are often over 70 additives and chemicals added to wine all the time, including good, old-fashioned white sugar." Industrial wineries add flavoring agents, yeast-killing chemicals, acids, saw dust and other ingredients to keep wines consistent from year to year. They also blend in coloring agents. A preference for deep, ruby red hues may play a part in guests who think erroneously that saturated color correlates to quality. "When I moved to Aspen in 1998, people were holding up red wine glasses and saying in these deep, impressive voices, 'Look at the color of that wine,' " says Pullis. ILLUSTRATION BY SUSANNA HARRISON Cork, bottles and cost Color is far from the only faux signifier of a wine's integrity. Nicolette Diodati, a Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level III sommelier and digital marketer for Pernod Ricard, was taught that sniffing a cork would reveal something about a wine's aroma and caliber, "rather than for cork taint, which is what it can be useful for," she says. Diodati was also taught that "the deeper the punt, the better the quality," referring to the indentation at the bottom of most wine bottles. Though there are several theories, no one really knows why glassblowers began to add punts to wine bottles. Chad Michael George, founder and bartender of Proof Productions in Denver, wants everyone to know: "The punt on a wine or Champagne bottle should absolutely NOT be used to hold the bottle while pouring. It's a pointless method and an easy way to drop a bottle on your table." [It's] not that the canned wine is secretly good. It's that a lot of wine that comes in bottles isn't good. Canned wine is at least honest that it's an inexpensive, fresh, drink-young option." —Tara Simmons, Southern Glazer's Wine & Spirits Tara Simmons, a fine wine manager at Southern Glazer's Wine & Spirits, says that many consumers think wines are worth more if they come in heavy bottles, or that there are no good canned wines. "Heavy bottles are often a marketing decision to make a wine look more expensive," says Simmons. "And it's not that the canned wine is secretly good. It's that a lot of wine that comes in bottles isn't good. Canned wine is at least honest that it's an inexpensive, fresh, drink-young option." For Segelbaum, the misunderstanding between cost and quality is one of the most frustrating myths in wine. It's also rampant in the pro community, says Diodati. "Everyone will tell you that price doesn't equal quality to be [politically correct], but [they] will secretly believe it does." WHAT DOES YOUR BOTTLE REALLY SAY ABOUT THE WINE? While the cost of rare and allocated wines is driven by scarcity, the price of the vast majority of wines is determined by the cost of "input," which includes land use, oak barrels, labor, labels, bottling, marketing, web hosting, temperature control, shipping and more. "One acre of plantable land in subprime Napa costs north of $1 million," says Segelbaum. "A perfect location in Robertson, South Africa, costs $20,000. Every wine is dramatically different." ILLUSTRATION BY SUSANNA HARRISON Genetics, vineyard sites and AOCs In wine, there are no hard rules other than those imposed by governing bodies and professional guilds, whose aim is to uphold traditions and standards. But those rules can also create myths. Diodati says that "a nice man" told her that if she weren't blessed with a special olfactory system, she'd never be able to smell, taste or understand wine, let alone make it through WSET curriculum. "Who has a perfect olfactory system?" says Pullis. "The vast majority of people have an average olfactory system, and there are people who can't taste or smell. Anyone in the normal range can train themselves to be a great taster." Frichette gets miffed when she hears, "You can't grow this here," especially in Washington, a relatively young wine-growing region still trying to define its terroir. The idea of regional monoculture was the norm in America in the 1970s and '80s, according to Catalino, but "younger winemakers, as well as legends like Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, are now experimenting with planting all sorts of cool varieties all over the place." "The vast majority of people have an average olfactory system... Anyone in the normal range can train themselves to be a great taster." —Jonathan Pullis, 7098 Aspen Legendary rules and concepts of style, even in the strictest of French Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée (AOCs), are due for questioning. Vin de France, a category once considered near-swill, has been embraced by exceptional producers who, like Frichette, don't want regulators and tradition to dictate the fruit they grow. Climate change also is making myths of firmly held notions about where varieties should be grown. "What worked in the past doesn't mean it will work in the future," says Pullis. He cites England's sparkling wines, whose quality has increased over the last few decades, as well as cooler emerging regions on "the knife's edge" of achieving ripeness, and recent riper vintages of Burgundy and Sancerre. "I don't like to tell people they don't know things," says Segelbaum. But sometimes it's his job to deliver the truth. One of his favorite opening lines for Wine 101 classes is, "I bet you don't know what taste is." Attendees, when goaded, begin to talk about the tongue and taste buds, he says. They throw out words like "sweet," "sour," "bitter" and "salty." Eventually, he clarifies that 80% of taste is smell. Radicchio, endive and escarole all activate bitter receptors on the tongue. White sugar, turbinado and Splenda light up sweet. But it's the olfactory system that helps us distinguish one from the other. "I'm talking to 50 people and telling them, 'What you know to be true, isn't true,' " says Segelbaum.

What does AVA mean in wine?

Do you know your Coombsville from your Russian River Valley or your Royal Slope? Welcome to the AVA system for US wine. Chris MercerSeptember 17, 2020 An aerial view across Willamette Valley vineyards. Credit: Photo by Dan Meyers on Unsplash Ask Decanter Highlights An American Viticultural Area, or AVA, is a specific vineyard zone based on geography and climate, which is why it is often compared to the French wine appellation system. While it sometimes seems that France's AOC system regulates every fine detail down to the wake-up time on a winemaker's alarm clock, the US AVA system takes a relatively hands-off approach. There are no specific rules on grapes that can or cannot be grown, for instance. This is no free-for-all, though, and applicants must demonstrate why a specific geographic area deserves special recognition. Anyone can apply to create an AVA in theory, but you'll need to fly to Washington DC to deliver maps, evidence and a convincing argument to get past the US Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), which keeps the official register. As the TTB puts it, 'An AVA is a delimited grape-growing region with specific geographic or climatic features that distinguish it from the surrounding regions and affect how grapes are grown.' You may also have to get the neighbours on-side, because there is normally a public comment period. All in all, it may take several years, as this guide from the Willamette Valley Wineries Association in Oregon shows. To use the AVA name on bottle labels, federal rules say at least 85% of grapes used to make the wine must come from within the area boundary. 'Certain states have stricter standards', according to the California Wine Institute. There are also other types of appellations. If an appellation name is defined by a political boundary, such as county name, then 75% of the grapes must come from within this zone if it's used on bottle labels, the Wine Institute says. Any wine using the 'California' appellation name must be made entirely from grapes grown in the state. 20% off when you join Decanter Premium for a year with promo code ASK20 Unlock exclusive daily articles written by our team of world-class wine experts, 1000s of wine reviews every month and instant access to the latest issues and back issues on the Decanter Premium App. No ads - just the best stories on the wines you love - BECOME A DECANTER PREMIUM MEMBER TODAY. How many AVAs are there? There were 250 AVAs as of 2 September, and it probably won't surprise you that California is home to most of them - 140. See a full list here on the TTB website. That said, one of the newest is in Washington State, where Royal Slope joined the exclusive club at the beginning of this month. It's Washington's 15th AVA and actually sits within the larger Columbia Valley AVA zone. This is an increasingly common phenomenon as the number of AVAs expands. Napa Valley is an AVA in itself, for example, but it contains other, smaller AVAs that you might also see described as sub-appellations. In Sonoma, meanwhile, the Moon Mountain AVA created in 2013 sits within the broader Sonoma Valley AVA. Some trade voices have previously argued that the proliferation of AVAs could confuse wine lovers, but others have said that adding more zones gives consumers greater choice and also highlights the diversity of soils and climate in growing regions. Trade body Napa Valley Vintners highlights a range of climatic differences between the AVAs in its region, for instance. Coombsville, which joined the club in December 2011, enjoys a more temperate climate thanks to the cooling influence of nearby San Pablo Bay, whereas one would generally expect the mercury to rise more sharply in the summer months in St. Helena further north, the NVV explains. This is not to say that all wines in an AVA and based on a particular grape variety will taste exactly the same. While there may be certain discernible characteristics, decisions in the vineyard and the cellar offer artistic leeway, of course. Certain vineyard sites or micro-climates within an AVA zone may also be known for bringing particular personality traits, too. Does AVA status mean higher wine prices? Gaining AVA status carries a degree of prestige, even if those in-the-know were long aware of the area's ability to produce outstanding fruit, and wines. Some research has shown that an AVA contributes to higher prices paid to grape growers, as demonstrated in a 2013 study looking at Lodi and Central Coast AVAs - with a reference to the development of the Shawnee Hills AVA in southern Illinois. However, even more important for prices was the establishment of wine quality standards by winemakers in those regions, said the researchers, writing in the journal Wine Economics and Policy.

Wine with turkey: A food pairing guide

From the red fruit and acidity of great Pinot Noir to the complexity of a top Chardonnay and the limitless layers of aged Barolo, there are plenty of options for pairing wine with turkey. Harry FawkesOctober 29, 2020 Credit: Photo by Claudio Schwarz | @purzlbaum on Unsplash Christmas Food and wine pairing Highlights Many people's festive dinners may look a little different this year, given the economic and social impact of Covid-19, but here is our expert advice for pairing wine with turkey if you're still planning to serve this traditional meat for Christmas or Thanksgiving. Classic styles when pairing wine with turkey: Full-bodied Chardonnay, such as those from Burgundy or California Pinot Noir Mature Bordeaux, Rioja or Barolo Beaujolais (Gamay) Remember that turkey is not a powerful meat Turkey is a white meat and has a low fat content, which is why it can dry out if not cooked carefully. So, your wine matches should ideally be either a full-bodied white wine or a medium-bodied red, with low or medium tannin and relatively high acidity. Search our wine reviews database Click on the turkey and wine pairing graphic below to see a full-size version Tips on matching Christmas turkey with wine. Credit: Annabelle Sing / Decanter The basic rules of wine with turkey Let's talk about tannins Fine tannins are great in a balanced wine with some bottle age, but too much mouth-coating tannin could also ruin all those hours you've spent slaving away in the kitchen. There is likely to be a dearth of fat on the plate in general, leaving little to soften tannins in a big, bold, young wine. This can accentuate the harsh feeling of tannins in the mouth, eclipsing other flavours, while the saltiness of the turkey can also make tannins taste more bitter. It may seem strange that classic Christmas wine choices include those with relatively high tannin levels, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends from Bordeaux. This, however, is where several years of bottle age come into play, because tannins will soften and integrate over time in the best wines. Embrace acidity A Christmas dinner table is full of flavours and complexity. Cranberry, bacon, parsnips, stuffing and Brussels sprouts are just some of the dishes vying for attention. And it's a similar story at Thanksgiving, as Ray Isle noted in this Decanter article in 2016. A wine with medium or high levels of acidity should be able to cope better with these myriad flavours. Give Decanter Premium this Christmas Best Champagne deals Red wine with turkey Everyone has their own personal tastes, and there are so many options out there, but Pinot Noir in its various guises around the world is often seen as a great match for turkey dinners. Pinot Noir Pinot Noir from bolder Burgundy crus, such as Gevrey-Chambertin or Pommard, should work exceptionally well. If you can stretch to the Grand Cru of Chambertin then you're in for a treat, but there are also plenty of less expensive options out there. Try looking towards Fixin or Santenay, for example. Be aware, though, that some lighter styles of Burgundy Pinot, such as classic Volnay wines, may be overpowered by the range of flavours on your plate. How about a delicious Pinot from Oregon's Willamette Valley or California's Santa Barbara County? Decanter contributor Stacy Slinkard recently praised the balance of lively acidity, fresh red fruits and sweet spice in this Schug Pinot from Sonoma County, too. The feathery tannins and autumnal fruit of Mooroduc Estate's 'McIntyre' Pinot from Australia's Mornington Peninsula could also make it a dinner to remember. Beaujolais Cru Gamay is often underrated and it's easy to also make the mistake of thinking that all Gamay wines are lightweight. Not so, especially in those 10 Beaujolais Crus known for making wines with more power and depth, such as Morgon or Moulin-à-Vent. Aged Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon is obviously in a completely different universe to what we've just talked about; big tannins, big acidity and lots of luscious dark fruit. Merlot, too, carries significant weight in its classic Bordeaux Right Bank form. Yet the delicately poised balance of fruit, acidity and integrated tannins can still work wonders with your turkey dinner, if some of those tertiary aromas from a few years of bottle age have started to develop around the edges. Jane Anson recently picked out wines from Bordeaux vintages that are ready to drink now. Some of the top second wines from the Bordeaux 2005 vintage are also hitting their sweet spot, said Anson in an article in September this year. Other classic reds from the bolder end of the spectrum would be aged Barolo or Chianti Classico. Mature Rioja can also combine those lovely, earthy, mushroomy aromas with bright red fruit and medium-weight tannins. There are also plenty of relatively good value options. Be wary of choosing a wine with too much oak influence, however. White wine with turkey Chardonnay Sometimes ignored at Christmas lunch, a full-bodied Chardonnay can be an enchanting accompaniment to your turkey, especially with traditional sides such as bread sauce. The best examples exude oaky richness that can give sweet spice notes, while creamy lactic acid really helps out with a meat that can sometimes be on the dry side. A backbone of acidity helps to balance out the flavours. Good Chardonnays, in general, are found in the similar geographical areas to good Pinot Noir. White Burgundy from the Côte de Beaune will work well at almost all levels. As above, those lucky enough to be able to choose a Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru or a Bâtard-MontrachetGrand Cru are unlikely to be disappointed. The high levels of minerality and acidity in these wines help to cleanse the palate, allowing you to wade through all the trimmings effortlessly. The Mâconnais is an area to explore for relative value options, particularly for anyone who enjoys riper fruit notes on their Chardonnay. This Domaine Serene 'Récolte' 2016 from Oregon's Dundee Hills is an example of a bolder style of Chardonnay from the US, showing dried apricot, spice and lots of concentration - but with enough acidity 'to keep it all in balance', according to Decanter contributor Charles Curtis. Other wonderful examples can be found in Victoria in Australia, from Victoria to Adelaide Hills to Margaret River, or in California from Napa Valley to Sonoma's Russian River Valley to Santa Barbara County. Don't overlook South Africa, home to this 'top-class' Chardonnay from Hamilton Russell Vineyards, or New Zealand. The Kumeu River Chardonnays made near Auckland are extraordinary wines and are capable of offering fantastic value for money. Top tip for cooking turkey: 'Take off the legs and cook them separately from the crown,' says Stephen Harris, chef at the Sportsman in Whitstable, Kent. 'It's easy to overcook the breast otherwise. I like to confit the legs in goose fat and last year I sous-vided the breast, which worked well.' Tasting notes: Wine with turkey suggestions Domaine Serene, Récolte, Dundee Hills, Oregon, Oregon, 2016 + Add to My Wines A selection of the best estate vineyards, including Clos du Soleil, Côte Sud, Etoile and Clos de Lune, aged 17 months in cask (70% new)... Rijckaert, Haute Cuvée, Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé, 2018 + Add to My Wines A clean, fresh and crisp Chardonnay with a full body and weighty mouthfeel. Deep flavours of lemon juice and rind, bitter orange peel, lime zest, peach flesh and honey touches combine to give a superb overall taste and feel. Made with hand-picked grapes, pressed slowly and then aged for up... Points91 Schug, Pinot Noir, Sonoma County, California, USA 2018 + Add to My Wines Cherry, ripe raspberry and a dash of clove on the nose. An incredibly approachable wine that highlights fruit from Carneros and the Petaluma Gap. Lively acidity carries fresh fruit flavours and sweet spice to a well-managed finish. Points91 Hamilton Russell, Chardonnay, Hemel-en-Aarde, 2018 + Add to My Wines Showing just a hint of reduction, this is a lovely Chardonnay that takes me back to the Burgundy 2018 en-primeur week in January. Côte de... Poggio al Sole, Casasilia, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, 2014 + Add to My Wines The Davaz family has been making wine in Switzerland since the early 1970s. In 1990, winemakers Kathrin and Johannes Davaz acquired Poggio al Sole, nestled between the towns of Tavarnelle Val di Pesa and Greve in Chianti. They produce 9,500 bottles of this wine, aged in old and new French... Points95 Moorooduc Estate, The Moorooduc McIntyre Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, 2016 + Add to My Wines The north-facing, relatively warm, dry-farmed site has produced a broad-shouldered wine, with a powerful, ripe underlay of tannins. The vintage makes for a sumptuous, velvety... Berry Bros & Rudd, Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pinot Noir by Benjamin Leroux, Burgundy, 2018 + Add to My Wines A new addition to the Berry Bros own-label range for 2019, this elegant Burgundy is made by talented young vigneron Benjamin Leroux, who sources Côte d'Or Pinot Noir grapes from very old vines planted in a declassified Chorey-lès-Beaune vineyard. Fresh raspberry and cherry aromas lead to a palate with more... Points93 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Réserve de la Comtesse, Pauillac, 2005 + Add to My Wines Chocolate, sweet black cherry fruit with strawberry puree, cinammon, fig and gentle menthol notes. This is ready to drink, in fact certainly heading towards tertiary... Louis Jadot, Les Demoiselles, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, 2014 + Add to My Wines Discreet appley aromas with some tropical fruit and an oaky sheen. Good attack - firm, virile and very concentrated - with minerality and ample sweetness.... CVNE, Imperial, Rioja, Northern Spain, Spain, 2009 + Add to My Wines |Buy Now$67.00 Imperial was first bottled in 1920 and has gained a reputation as one of the best known wines of Rioja. The name traces its origins... This article has been updated in October 2020 after being originally written by Harry Fawkes in 2015 and 2016.

A wine lover's guide to vineyard soils

SOIL Topsoil is of primary importance to the vine because it supports most of its root system, including most of the feeding network. Subsoil always remains geologically true. Main roots penetrate several layers of subsoil, whose structure influences drainage, the root system's depth, and its ability to collect minerals. The metabolism of the vine is well known, and the interaction between it and the soil is generally understood. The ideal medium in which to grow vines for wine production is one that has a relatively thin topsoil and an easily penetrable (and therefore well-drained) subsoil with good water-retaining characteristics. The vine does not like "wet feet", so drainage is vital, yet it needs access to moisture, so access to a soil with good water retention is also important. The temperature potential of a soil, its heat-retaining capacity, and its heat-reflective characteristics affect the ripening period of grapes: warm soils (gravel, sand, loam) advance ripening, while cold soils (clay) retard it. Chalk falls between these two extremes, and dark, dry soils are obviously warmer than light, wet soils. High-pH (alkaline) soils, such as chalk, encourage the vine's metabolism to produce sap and grape juice with a relatively high acid content. The continual use of fertilizers has lowered the pH level of some viticultural areas in France, and these are now producing wines of higher pH (less acidity). THE MINERAL REQUIREMENTS OF THE VINE Just as various garden flowers, shrubs, and vegetables perform better in one soil type as opposed to another, so too do different grape varieties. Certain minerals essential to plant growth are found in various soils. Apart from hydrogen and oxygen (which are supplied as water), the most important soil nutrients are nitrogen, which is used in the production of a plant's green matter; phosphate, which directly encourages root development and indirectly promotes an earlier ripening of the grapes (an excess inhibits the uptake of magnesium); potassium, which improves the vine's metabolism, enriches the sap, and is essential for the development of the following year's crop; iron, which is indispensable for photosynthesis (a lack of iron will cause chlorosis); magnesium, which is the only mineral constituent of the chlorophyll molecule (lack of magnesium also causes chlorosis); and calcium, which feeds the root system, neutralizes acidity and helps create a friable soil structure (although an excess of calcium restricts the vine's ability to extract iron from the soil and therefore causes chlorosis). GUIDE TO VINEYARD SOILS To the wine amateur, the details of geology are not always important; what matters is how soil affects the growth of vines. If one clay soil is heavier or more silty, sandy, or calcareous, that is relevant. But there is enough jargon used when discussing wine to think of mixing it with rock-speak. Acid soil Any soil that has a pH of less than 7 (neutral). Typical acidic soils that are acidic due to their parent rock include brown or reddish-brown, sandy loams or sands, volcanic soils, and any igneous or silicate-rich soil. Neutral soils can become acidic from too much humus or acid rain. Acid soils are low in calcium and magnesium, with negligible amounts of soluble salts and reduced phosphorous availability. Aeolian soil Sediments deposited by wind (eg, loess). Albariza White-surfaced soil formed by diatomaceous deposits, found in southern Spain. Alberese A compact clay and limestone found in the Chianti region. Albero Synonymous with albariza. Albian A type of schist found in Maury, Roussillon. Alkaline soil Any soil that has a pH of more than 7 (neutral). Typical alkaline soils include chalk and any calcareous soils. Alluvial deposits (noun - alluvium) Material that has been transported by river and deposited. Most alluvial soils contain silt, sand, and gravel and are highly fertile. Aqueous rocks One of the three basic rock forms (see Rock). Also called sedimentary or stratified. Arenaceous rocks Formed by the deposits of coarse-grained particles, usually siliceous, and often decomposed from older rocks (eg, sandstone). Arène A coarse, granitic sand ideally suited to the Gamay, arène is found in the Beaujolais region. Argillaceous soil This term covers a group of sedimentary soils, commonly clays, shales, mudstones, siltstones, and marls. Argovian marl A chalky, clay-like marl found in many parts of the Côte des Beaune. Arkose A red, Triassic sandstone consisting of feldspar, quartz, and clay minerals, arkose is often found in the Côtes d'Auvergne and parts of Beaujolais (eg, St-Amour). Aubuis Found in the Touraine district of the Loire and highly rated for Chenin Blanc in Vouvray and Montlouis, aubuis is a stony mix of permeable, fertile, calcareous clays that are said to be well suited to white grape varieties. Barro A similar soil to albariza but brown in colour, sandier, and with less diatomaceous content. While Palomino grapes are grown on albariza soil, barro is reserved for Pedro Ximénez grapes. Basalt material This accounts for as much as 90 per cent of all lava-based volcanic rocks. It contains various minerals, is rich in lime and soda, but not quartz, the most abundant of all minerals, and it is poor in potash. Bastard soil A Bordelais name for medium-heavy, sandy-clay soil of variable fertility. Bauxite As well as being a valuable ore mined for aluminium production, bauxite is found in limestone soils of Coteaux de Baux-de-Provence. Block-like soil Referring to the soil structure, "block-like" indicates an angular or slanting arrangement of soil particles. Boulbènes A Bordelais name for a very fine siliceous soil that is easily compressed and hard to work. This "beaten" earth covers part of the Entre-Deux-Mers plateau. Boulder See Particle size Calcareous clay Argillaceous soil with carbonate of lime content that neutralizes the clay's intrinsic acidity. Its low temperature also delays ripening, so wines produced on this type of soil tend to be more acidic. Calcareous soil Any soil, or mixture of soils, with an accumulation of calcium and magnesium carbonates. Essentially alkaline, it promotes the production of acidity in grapes, although the pH of each soil will vary according to its level of "active" lime. Calcareous soils are cool, with good water retention. With the exception of calcareous clays (see above), they allow the vine's root system to penetrate deeply and provide excellent drainage. Carbonaceous soil Soil that is derived from rotting vegetation under anaerobic conditions. The most common carbonaceous soils are peat, lignite, coal, and anthracite. Chalk A type of limestone, chalk is a soft, cool, porous, brilliant-white, sedimentary, alkaline rock that encourages grapes with a relatively high acidity level. It also allows the vine's roots to penetrate and provides excellent drainage, while at the same time retaining sufficient moisture for nourishment. One of the few finer geological points that should be adhered to is that which distinguishes chalk from the numerous hard limestone rocks that do not possess the same physical properties. Clay A fine-grained argillaceous compound with malleable, plastic characteristics and excellent water-retention properties. It is, however, cold, acid, offers poor drainage, and, because of its cohesive quality, is hard to work. An excess of clay can stifle the vine's root system, but a proportion of small clay particles mixed with other soils can be advantageous. Clayey-loam A very fertile version of loam, but heavy to work under wet conditions, with a tendency to become waterlogged. Cobble See Particle size Colluvial deposits (noun - colluvium) Weathered material transported by gravity or hill-wash. Crasse de fer Iron-rich hard-pan found in the Libournais area of France. Also called machefer. Crystalline May be either igneous (eg, granite) or metamorphic. Dolomite A calcium-magnesium carbonate rock. Many limestones contain dolomite. Entroques Type of hard limestone found in Burgundy (eg, Montagny). Feldspar or Felspar One of the most common minerals, feldspar is a white- or rose-coloured silicate of either potassium-aluminium or sodium-calcium-aluminium and is present in a number of rocks, including granite and basalt. Ferruginous clay Iron-rich clay. Flint A siliceous stone that stores and reflects heat and is often associated with a certain "gun-flint" smell that sometimes occurs in wines, although this is not actually proven and may simply be the taster's auto-suggestion. Gabbro A dark, coarse-grained igneous rock found in Muscadet. Galestro Rocky, schistous clay soil commonly found in most of Tuscany's best vineyards. Glacial moraine A gritty scree that has been deposited by glacial action. Gore A pinkish, decomposed, granitic arenaceous soil found in Beaujoalais, St Joseph, and Côtes Roannaise. Gneiss A coarse-grained form of granite. Granite A hard, mineral-rich rock that warms quickly and retains its heat. Granite contains 40 to 60 per cent quartz and 30 to 40 per cent potassium feldspar, plus mica or hornblende, and various other minerals. It has a high pH that reduces wine acidity. Thus, in Beaujolais, it is the best soil for the acidic Gamay grape. It is important to note that a soil formed from granite is a mixture of sand (partly derived from a disintegration of quartz and partly from the decomposition of feldspar with either mica or hornblende), clay, and various carbonates or silicates derived from the weathering of feldspar, mica, or hornblende. Gravel A wide-ranging term that covers siliceous pebble of various sizes that are loose, granular, airy, and afford excellent drainage. Infertile, it encourages the vine to send its roots down deep in search of nutrients. Gravel beds above limestone subsoils produce wines with markedly more acidity than those above clay. Greensand A dark greenish coloured, glauconite-rich sand of Cretaceous origin found in some vineyards in southeast England. Greensand is used as a water softener, which is ironic considering that it is found over chalk subsoil, known for its hard water. Greywacke Argillaceous rocks that could have been formed as recently as a few thousand years ago by rivers depositing mudstone, quartz, and feldspar. Commonly found in Germany, South Africa, and New Zealand. Gypsum Highly absorbent, hydrated calcium-sulphate that was formed during the evaporation of sea-water. Gypsiferous marl A marly soil permeated with Keuper or Muschelkalk gypsum fragments, which improve the soil's heat-retention and water-circulation properties. Hard-pan A dense layer of clay that forms if the subsoil is more clayey than the topsoil at certain depths. As hard-pans are impermeable to both water and roots, they are not desirable too close to the surface but may provide an easily reachable water-table if located deep down. A sandy, iron-rich hard-pan known as iron-pan is commonly found in parts of Bordeaux. Hornblende A silicate of iron, aluminium, calcium, and magnesium, it constitutes the main mineral found in basalt and is a major component of granite and gneiss. Humus Organic material that contains bacteria and other micro-organisms that are capable of converting complex chemicals into simple plant foods. Humus makes soil fertile; without it, soil is nothing more than finely ground rock. Igneous rock One of the three basic rock forms (see Rock), igneous rocks are formed from molten or partially molten material. Most igneous rocks are crystalline. Iron-pan A sandy, iron-rich hard-pan. Jory A volcanic soil, primarily basalt, which is in turn a hard and dense soil that often has a glassy appearance. One of the two primary soil types found in Oregon's Willamette Valley, particularly on the lower foothills, such as the Dundee Hills, where Pinot Noir excels. Keuper Often used when discussing wines in Alsace, Keuper is a stratigraphic name for the Upper Triassic period and can mean marl (varicoloured, saliferous grey, or gypsiferous grey) or limestone (ammonoid). Kimmeridgian soil A greyish-coloured limestone originally identified in, and so named after, the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, England. A sticky, calcareous clay containing this limestone is often called Kimmeridgian clay. Lacustrine limestone A freshwater limestone that forms at the bottom of lakes. Lacustrine-limestone soils have been found on Pelee Island and the Niagara district of Ontario, Yakima Valley in Washington, and Quincy in the Loire Valley. Lignite The "brown coal" of Germany and the "black gold" of Champagne, this is a brown carbonaceous material intermediate between coal and peat. Warm and very fertile, it is mined and used as a natural fertilizer in Champagne. Limestone Any sedimentary rock consisting essentially of carbonates. With the exception of chalk, few limestones are white, with grey- and buff-coloured probably the most commonly found limestone in wine areas. The hardness and water retention of this rock vary, but being alkaline it generally encourages the production of grapes with a relatively high acidity level. Loam A warm, soft, crumbly soil with roughly equal proportions of clay, sand, and silt. It is perfect for large-cropping mediocre-quality wines but too fertile for fine wines. Loess An accumulation of wind-borne, mainly silty material, that is sometimes calcareous but usually weathered and decalcified. It warms up relatively quickly and also has good water-retention properties. Machefer See Crasse de fer Macigno Hard grey-blue sandstone found in the Chianti region. Marl A cold, calcareous clay-like soil (usually 50 per cent clay content) that delays ripening and adds acidity to wine. Marlstone Clayey limestone that has a similar effect to marl. Metamorphic rocks One of the three basic categories of rock (see Rock), this is caused by great heat or pressure, often both. Mica A generic name encompassing various silicate minerals, usually in a fine, decomposed-rock format. Millstone Siliceous, iron-rich, sedimentary rock. Moraine See Glacial moraine Mudstone A sedimentary soil similar to clay but without its plastic characteristics. Muschelkalk Often used when discussing wines in Alsace, Muschelkalk is a stratigraphic name for the Middle Triassic period and can mean anything from sandstone (shelly, dolomitic, calcareous, clayey, pink, yellow, or millstone) to marl (varicoloured or fissile), dolomite, limestone (crinoidal or grey), and shingle. Oolite A type of limestone. Oolith A term used for small, round, calcareous pebbles that have grown through fusion of very tiny particles. Palus A bordelais name for a very fertile soil of modern alluvial origin that produces medium-quality, well-coloured, robust wines. Particle size The size of a rock determines its descriptive name. No handful of soil will contain particles of a uniform size, unless it has been commercially graded, of course, so all such descriptions can only be guesstimates, but it is worth noting what they should be, otherwise you will have nothing to base your guesstimates on. According to the Wentworth-Udden scale, they are: boulder (greater than 256mm), cobble (64mm-256mm), pebble (4mm-64mm), gravel (2mm-4mm), sand (1⁄16mm-2mm), silt (1⁄256mm-1⁄16mm) and clay (smaller than 1⁄256mm). Notice that even by this precise scale, Wentworth and Udden have allowed overlaps, thus a 1⁄16mm particle might either be sand or silt and, of course, sub-divisions are possible within each group, as there is such a thing as fine, medium, or coarse sand and even gritty silt. Pebble See Particle size Pelite Fine-grained clayey-quartz sedimentary rock found in Banyuls. Peperite Limestone or marly rock found on Madeira and along Idaho's Snake River Valley that has been ejected by volcanic activity and is literally "peppered" with tiny peppercorn-like grains of basalt. Perlite A fine, powdery, light, and lustrous substance of volcanic origin with similar properties to diatomaceous earth. Perruches Very stony, flinty clays combined with silica, perruches soils warm up quickly and are said to be why Sauvignon Blanc grown on them have a flinty taste. Phtanite Dark-coloured sedimentary rock bearing stratas of quartz crystals, found in Savennières and Coteaux du Layon Platy soil Referring to the soil structure, "platy" indicates a horizontal alignment of soil particles. Porphyry A coloured igneous rock with high pH. Precipitated salts A sedimentary deposit. Water charged with acid or alkaline material, under pressure of great depth, dissolves various mineral substances from rocks on the sea-bed, which are then held in solution. When the water flows to a place of no great depth or is drained away or evaporates, the pressure is reduced, the minerals are no longer held in solution and precipitate in deposits that may be just a few centimetres or several thousand metres deep. There are five groups: oxides, carbonates, sulphates, phosphates, and chlorides. Prism-like soil Referring to the soil structure, "prism-like" indicates a columnar or vertical arrangement of soil particles. Pudding stones A term used for a large, heat-retaining conglomerate of pebbles. Quartz The most common and abundant mineral, quartz is the crystalline form of silica. It is found in various sizes and in almost all soils, although sand and coarse silt contain the largest amount. Quartz has a high pH, which reduces wine acidity, but quartz that is pebble-sized or larger, stores and reflects heat, which increases alcohol potential. Red earth See Terra rossa Rock A rock may be loosely described as a mass of mineral matter. There are three basic types of rock: igneous, metamorphic, and sedimentary (or aqueous or stratified). Ruedas Red sandy-limestone soil found in the Montilla-Moriles region of Spain. Ruffe A fine-grained, brilliant-red sandstone soil rich in iron-oxide, ruffe is found in parts of the Languedoc region of France, particulary the Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Salagou. Safres A sandy-marl found in the southern Rhône Valley. Saibro A decomposed red tufa soil that is highly regarded in Madeira. Sand Tiny particles of weathered rocks and minerals that retain little water but constitute a warm, airy soil that drains well and is supposedly phylloxera-free. Sandstone Sedimentary rock composed of sand-sized particles that have either been formed by pressure or bound by various iron minerals. Sandy-loam Warm, well-drained, sand-dominated loam that is easy to work and suitable for early-cropping grape varieties. Schist Heat-retaining, coarse-grain, laminated, crystalline rock that is rich in potassium and magnesium but poor in nitrogen and organic substances. Scree Synonymous with colluvium deposits. Sedimentary rock One of the three basic rock forms (see Rock), it includes arenaceous (eg, sandstone), argillaceous (eg, clay), calcareous (eg, limestone), carbonaceous (eg, peat, lignite, or coal), siliceous (eg, quartz), and the five groups of precipitated salts, (oxides, carbonates, sulphates, phosphates, and chlorides). Sedimentary rocks are also called aqueous or stratified. Shale Heat-retaining, fine-grain, laminated, moderately fertile sedimentary rock. Shale can turn into slate under pressure. Shingle Pebble- or gravel-sized particle rounded by water-action. Siliceous soil A generic term for acid rock of a crystalline nature. It may be organic (such as flint) or inorganic (quartz) and have good heat retention, but no water retention unless found in a finely ground form in silt, clay, and other sedimentary soils. Half of the Bordeaux region is covered with siliceous soils. Silt A very fine deposit, with good water retention. Silt is more fertile than sand but is cold and offers poor drainage. Slate Hard, often dark grey (but can be any colour between brown and bluish grey), fine-grain, plate-like rock formed under pressure from clay, siltstone, shale, and other sediments. It warms up quickly, retains its heat well, and is responsible for many fine wines, most notably from the Mosel. Slaty-schist A sort of half-formed slate created under lower temperature and pressure than fully formed slate. Spiroidal soil Referring to the soil structure, "spiroidal" indicates a granular or crumb-like composition of soil particles. Steige A type of schist found on the north side of Andlau in Alsace, it has metamorphosed with the Andlau granite and is particularly hard and slaty. It has mixed with the granitic sand from the top of the Grand Cru Kastelberg and makes a dark, stony soil. Stone This word should be used with rock types, such as limestone and sandstone, but is often used synonymously with pebble. Stratified rock One of the three basic rock forms (see Rock); also called sedimentary or aqueous. Terra rossa A red, clay-like, sometimes flinty sedimentary soil that is deposited after carbonate has been leached out of limestone. It is often known as "red earth". Terres blanches Steep Kimmeridgian marls in Sancerre. Tufa A limestone concretion that forms via water dripping through gaps in limestone, tufa is typical of the soil of Orvieto, Umbria, and is also found in Montalcino, Tuscany, as well as the Langhe region of Piedmont. Tuff Rocks formed by fractured or water-bound material ejected by volcanic activity, tuff drains well and is found in Taburno, Campania, in Italy; Balatonfüred-Csopak, Balatonfelvidék and Balatonboglár around Lake Balaton in Hungary; and the Galilee region of Israel, particularly Upper Galilee and the Golan Hights. Tuffau A buff-coloured, sandstone-rich, otherwise chalky limestone as found in the Loire, particularly around Touraine, and used in the construction of many of its châteaux. Volcanic soils Derived from two sources, volcanic soils are lava-based (the products of volcanic flow) and vent-based (material blown into the atmosphere). Some 90 per cent of lava-based rocks and soils are comprised of basalt, while others include andesite, pitchstone, rhyolite, and trachyte. Vent-based matter has either been ejected as molten globules, cooled in the air, and dropped to earth as solid particles (pumice), or as solid material and fractured through the explosive force with which it was flung (tuff). Willakenzie A silty clay-loam colluvium, this is one of the two primary soil types found in Oregon's Willamette Valley.

What are lees in wine? - Ask Decanter

From that rich texture in your Chardonnay to those delicious brioche flavours in your Champagne, lees are highly prized in some corners of the wine world. Chris MercerJuly 22, 2021 Champagne ageing in cellars in Reims. Credit: Evgeny Shmulev / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Highlights What are lees in wine? Lees are predominantly dead yeast cells left over from the fermentation process, but there are two kinds. 'Gross lees' refers to the general sediment that forms in the wine after fermentation. Gross lees tend to naturally fall to the bottom of the winemaking vessel and are generally separated from the liquid quite quickly, although not always. Fine lees are smaller particles that settle more slowly in the wine. They can also be filtered out, but some winemakers choose to leave them in for differing lengths of time in an effort to enhance the complexity of the wine. Some winemakers might stir the lees to encourage the development of extra texture and aromas in their wines - a method also known as batonnage. What does 'aged on lees' mean? Leaving wine in contact with dead yeast cells might not sound too appealing on paper, but lees ageing can be used to enhance certain aromas or bring more body and texture to wines. It's a technique commonly associated with white wines and sparkling wines, but not exclusively and not for every style. Wines can be aged on lees for a few weeks and months or several years. By law, a non-vintage Champagne must be aged for 15 months in bottle and spend at least 12 months on lees, according to the Comité Champagne. A vintage Champagne must be aged on lees for three years minimum, although in reality many houses age wines for longer than this baseline threshold. Can you taste lees in wine? With traditional method sparkling wines, like Champagne, yeast cells die in the bottle after the second fermentation. Over time, this can create 'autolytic' flavours, such as brioche, biscuit or bread-like notes in the wine. Lees also 'give the wine its complexity and add finesse to the bubbles', according to the union of Champagne houses. Nutty aromas, such as almond, plus hay and yeasty flavours can all be the results of a wine spending some time aged on lees, or 'sur lie' as it's known in French. Expert Jim Budd recently reviewed several Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine 'Sur Lie' wines as part of a round-up of latest releases from the Loire Valley. 'The complex 2019 has attractive ripe citric aromas with yeasty, toasty characteristics and a long finish,' he said of Domaine Luneau-Papin's 'Clos des Allées' 2019. Lees can also lend richness and extra texture to some wines, as well as contributing to balance. 'Time on lees after secondary fermentation pays huge dividends for English sparkling wine, endowed as it always is with high natural levels of acidity,' said Decanter World Wine Awards judges in 2019, after giving a Best In Show medal to Wiston Estate, Blanc de Blancs Brut 2011. Deciding whether to leave a wine ageing or resting on lees, versus actively stirring the lees, often comes down to the stylistic choice of the winery, said Jean-Charles Thomas, winemaking director at Louis Latour in Burgundy, in a Decanter advice article in 2017. 'The reductive nature of the lees also provides some protection against oxidation too,' he said. Updated in July 2021. Original article published in 2017.

Expert advice on cooking with wine

Which wines should - and shouldn't - you use for cooking? We get some expert advice... Ellie DouglasFebruary 4, 2021 Credit: Steve Anderson / Alamy Stock Photo Affiliate Books Highlights Cooking with wine can really help enhance a dish, whether that's adding some to a slow cooked meaty sauce, a splash as you start a risotto or even as a marinade. But given how much thought goes into choosing wine to drink, how much should you think about which wines you cook with? Best wine for cooking - and what not to use 'The cardinal rule is if you wouldn't drink it, you shouldn't cook with it,' said food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in Decanter magazine. This is why you shouldn't use corked wines in cooking. 'The cork taint will come through in the finished dish.' Avoid cheap 'cooking wines' say our experts, and stick to the level of wines you would tend to drink. 'At best they won't add anything to your finished dish, and at worst they'll actively make it unpleasant,' Pete Dreyer, food writer at Great British Chefs, previously told Decanter.com. However, don't feel you have to use an expensive wine, said Beckett, who wrote The Wine Lover's Kitchen: Delicious recipes for cooking with wine. A bottle around the £8 mark should be fine. 'The only time to [use more expensive wine] is if a dish needs only a small amount of wine and you'd otherwise have to open another bottle,' wrote Beckett in The Wine Lover's Kitchen. For example, her book includes a Champagne and mushroom risotto recipe. 'It might seem wantonly extravagant.... But you need only a glass and the bonus is that you can drink the rest with the risotto.' If you are going to use a separate wine for cooking with, you could take inspiration from the style you would drink with the dish, but go for a cheaper alternative. 'An inexpensive Côtes du Rhône, for example, in a dish with which you'd drink a Gigondas,' suggested Beckett. If you're worried about needing to open a bottle that then won't be drunk, try this hack: 'Freeze leftover wine in an ice cube tray and keep the cubes handy in a freezer bag to add to a dish,' she wrote. Cooking with white wine Dishes that could use some white wine include risottos, white wine sauces (of course) or coq au Riesling. As a starting point, crisp, dry, unoaked whites work well. 'Pinot Grigio is really versatile - also Sauvignon Blanc; those are the two I would reach for first, and unoaked Chardonnay is fine,' said Dreyer. 'In most sauces, the most important thing is to consider the sweetness and acidity. As you cook off the alcohol and reduce the wine, both will become more pronounced, so you're best off sticking to dry whites, with a reasonable amount of acidity.' However, you could use a more aromatic variety if you wanted to. Beckett wrote, 'Wines with a pronounced aromatic character, such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer, are less flexible, but may turn out to be delicious with, for example, a creamy sauce. Feel free to experiment.' Decanter's Sylvia Wu recommended a splash of 'bone dry Riesling' at the end of cooking fried rice. 'Only to be added at the very end, and let the white blossom and sweet peach scents rise from the wok,' she said. Cooking with red wine The best red wines to cook with are medium-bodied but not overly tannic, like Merlot or Grenache. Tannins in wine become more concentrated as you cook them, so a tannic wine may dry out the dish or cause astringent flavours. Red wine isn't just for meaty sauces. 'You might not think of pouring red wine into a risotto but with beetroot it works beautifully,' suggested Beckett. Dryer added, 'It seems a bit weird, but it can work with flavours that traditionally accompany red wine - for example, mushroom risotto can work with red or white wine.' Fortified wines, such as Sherry, Madeira and Marsala, are also great for cooking. A small quantity adds strength, depth and often a welcome sweetness. Some recommend vermouth for risottos too. If you cook with wine is there any alcohol left in the dish? 'There is a widespread misconception that it all cooks out, but unless you're cooking the dish for three hours or more there will be a residue - depending on how much wine you've used,' said Beckett. 'Worth bearing in mind if you're cooking for kids or non-drinkers.'

Best celebrity wines: How good are they?

From Hollywood actors to international pop stars, the rich and famous have often been drawn to the world of winemaking. But how involved are they, and does their star status shine through in their wines? Ellie DouglasJune 4, 2021 Celebrity wine Highlights Tastings Home A growing number of celebrities are getting involved with the wine world - some owning vineyard estates but others getting more hands on in the winemaking itself. Well known ones include Jay Z's involvement with Armand de Brignac, which he sold a 50% stake to LVMH earlier this year; The Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola's Inglenook wines, often served at the Oscars, and Miraval rosé, from the Provence estate owned by former couple Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. There's also professional golfer Ernie Els, with Stellenbosch wines, Cliff Richard's Portuguese reds, Sam Neill's Central Otago Two Paddocks and fashion designer Roberto Cavalli's wines from Tuscany. Cricketer Sir Ian Botham has his own range of wines, as does talk show host Graham Norton, and popstar Kylie Minogue, who recently discussed her wine range with Andrew Jefford. George Clooney - who already has a tequila brand - is reportedly buying a Provence estate, and rapper Post Malone also has his own rosé, Maison No. 9. Celebrity winemakers: How involved are they? 'Decanter readers may be mildly suspicious of celebrity wines,' wrote Jefford in his latest column for the July 2021 issue of Decanter magazine. 'You're buying a famous person and their image rather than a beautiful drink imbued with a sense of place, right? Don't hurry to conclusions, though. 'Minogue (2.2 million followers on Instagram and Twitter) has sold one million bottles of wine in the past year, many of them to people who have never drunk wine before.' Similarly, after the success of Château Miraval, Brad Pitt, along with co-owners of the estate, the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel, joined forces with the Péters family to produce a rosé Champagne. The team behind Fleur de Miraval rosé Champagne, emphasised Pitt's active role in the project and described it as 'not some new celebrity wine, but an authentic project'. Sting, ex-frontman of The Police, is also a winemaker, producing wine from the Tuscan estate Il Palagio. He discusses the wines that have played a major part in his life in the July issue of Decanter, on sale now. Introducing new wine lovers? 'Through [Minogue's] Collection series, those new drinkers may come to appreciate the wines of Howard Park in Western Australia, de Bortoli in the Yarra Valley and Château Sainte Roseline in Côtes de Provence,' wrote Jefford. 'Some may even become Decanter readers - as Minogue herself has. 'Minogue's genuinely involved; those helping her have done a good job; the wines are accessible, not 'luxury'; she's opening up the wine world to new palates. Anything wrong with that?' The following list of wines includes one per estate, tasted by a range of Decanter experts. Find more in-depth tastings of Armand de Brignac and Kylie's wine range, plus more in our wine database. Top celebrity wines, tasted by our experts Armand de Brignac, Ace of Spades Blanc de Noirs A3 + Add to My Wines The third and latest Assemblage (hence A3) of this superb Blanc de Noirs, as with all the Brignac range, an amalgam of three vintages, in this instance 2009, 2010 and 2012. The wine has had six years on its lees and was disgorged in April this year, its dosage modest... Points96 Fleur de Miraval, Rosé, Champagne, France NV + Add to My Wines An extraordinary achievement this, made by the famously difficult saignée method, yet with a wonderful onion skin colour and poised aromas of lemongrass, small red berried fruit and pink grapefruit. Rodolphe Péters from the eponymous Champagne house in Le Mesnil sur Oger demonstrates why he is seen as one of... Points94 Inglenook, Rubicon, Napa Valley, Rutherford, 2018 + Add to My Wines One would be hard-pressed to find a more definitive showing of Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon. Just enough oak-treatment apparent on the nose to add complexity, melting... Kylie Minogue, Ch Ste Roseline Cru Classé Provence Rosé, Provence 2020 + Add to My Wines The historical classification of Provence properties was made in 1855; 23 domains were selected of which only 18 still exist - and one of these is Ch. Ste Roseline, the source of Kylie Minogue's Provence rosé. This petal-pink 'Cru Classé' wine comes from some of the property's best vineyards. Look... Points92 Miraval, Rosé, Côtes de Provence, Provence, France, 2016 + Add to My Wines The fate of this celebrity-owned vineyard which currently belongs to Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie may be uncertain, but there's no doubt about the quality of this fresh, elegant, wild strawberry scented rosé. Drink with: lobster, sea bass. Points92 Ernie Els, Major Series, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2017 + Add to My Wines Famous South African golfer Ernie Els retains a share in this winery but it is now predominantly German-owned, with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon set to be... Quinta do Moinho, Vida Nova Reserva, Algarve, Portugal, 2012 + Add to My Wines Cliff Richard has a string of hits going back many years, among them Where Do We Go from Here; sadly the same could be said for his wine venture, as it is rumoured to be up for sale. Aged in oak for 12 months, this delicious Syrah Aragoñez blend exhibits... Points91 Tenuta degli Dei, Cavalli, Tuscany, Italy, 2013 + Add to My Wines Roberto Cavalli, the Leopard King fashion designer, ventured into the wine world with his first vintage in 2004. The estate in Tuscany is run by... Two Paddocks, Picnic Pinot Noir, Central Otago, 2019 + Add to My Wines From actor Sam Neill's Central Otago winery - his grandfather Sidney is the chap in the cap on the label. This is a blend of... Seresin Estate, Mãrama, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand 2016 + Add to My Wines The new release of a unique style of Sauvignon Blanc that justifies its premium price. Biodynamic grapes from the Noa vineyard, Seresin's oldest, were whole-bunch pressed and wild-yeast fermented in barriques then aged in barrel (11% new) for 18 months. It's a serious, concentrated, complex wine, with warm alcohol and... Points92 Château de Tigné, Les Maillones, Anjou Blanc, Loire, 2015 + Add to My Wines Larger than life French actor and bon-viveur Gérard Depardieu surely needs little introduction. After his outstanding performance as a doomed hunchbacked farmer in the film... Sir Ian Botham, The All-Rounder Chardonnay, 2018 + Add to My Wines Unlike many other celebrities, cricket legend Sir Ian has had actual involvement in his new wine project. Here, he wanted the lightly oaked Margaret River fruit to give a tropical, peachy flavour, which joins green apple, zippy grapefruit acidity and vanilla hints. Great value - especially when on offer for... Points89

Scientists Explore the Unexpected Potential Benefit of Excess Tannins

Tannins are an essential part of the mouthfeel and ageability of some wines. But scientists believe they could also be used to create plastics that could keep food fresh longer. A wine's tannins come mostly from the grape's seeds and skins. They belong to a class of chemicals known as polyphenols, which are the same antioxidants believed to give red wine its reported health benefits. Although some are added to wine during fermentation, most tannins remain in the grape marc, or the stalks, seeds and other materials typically thrown out after the pressing process. Now, these waste tannins could be given a new lease on life. Paul Kilmartin and Charlotte Vandermeer at the University of Auckland in New Zealand / Photo courtesy of Paul Kilmartin Paul Kilmartin, a professor of wine chemistry at New Zealand's University of Auckland, uses the discarded tannins to create plastics that could extend the shelf life of packaged food. He first became interested in tannins due to their antimicrobial properties. Kilmartin wanted to use them to develop antimicrobial plastics to be used in medical settings that could reduce the spread of infection. So, he tried adding tannins to the plastics as they are cast to spread them throughout the material. However, during the manufacturing process, Kilmartin found that tannins lost their antimicrobial properties. While disappointed, Kilmartin realized that the plastics retained the antioxidant effect of the tannins. He now uses these plastics to keep foods fresher, as antioxidants can react with chemicals that cause oxidation and slow spoilage. Kilmartin created different plastic films that contain tannins and tested their effect as packaging for oils. The tannins need to be in contact with the food, so he expects that liquids like oils will benefit the most. "We can slow down the oxidation of oils—cooking oils, fish oils and vegetable oils—in contact with these films," says Kilmartin. "We believe the antioxidant effect of those tannins at the surface of those films is slowing down that rate of oxidation." Kilmartin found that the tannins could extend an oil's shelf life up to 30% before they turn rancid. Grape waste in New Zealand / Photo courtesy of Paul Kilmartin Not only could this help prevent food waste, but it could also reduce additives often used to preserve oil. The tannins are impregnated into the plastic, so they should avoid leaching into the oil. "A grape tannin wouldn't do that," says Kilmartin. "It stays on the surface of the film. So, it's things that are in contact with that film which will benefit." "There's a lot of very interesting molecules in nature with a variety of properties, antioxidants, etc.," says Nicolas Brosse, a professor at the University of Lorraine in France. His research focuses on the use of chemicals extracted from natural sources, including tannins, to develop better materials. "[Kilmartin's work is] feasible, but there are a lot of difficulties to overcome," Brosse says. "For example, in our work with tannins, we demonstrated that it's possible to include tannins in thermoplastics [plastics which can be reshaped when heated], but the main difficulty is the compatibility between the plastic and the tannin. It means the final properties [of the plastic] are not good enough, and the material is too brittle." Kilmartin now works with plastics experts in New Zealand to further develop the packaging to have commercial use. Yeast: How a Mighty Little Fungus Evolved To Change the World Extracting the tannins also has an additional benefit, as it makes the waste marc more useful for compost and reduces the risk of contaminating the environment, says Kilmartin. "Marlborough, a relatively new winegrowing region in New Zealand, has expanded so much over the last 25 years, and they have a major problem with how to deal with this waste stream," he says. "Those same tannins which we're trying to extract can be very bad if you get huge amounts washing into rivers and waterways." Kilmartin says that extracting the tannins could have long-term environmental benefits. "If we take the tannins out through an extraction step, we believe that makes that remaining material more suitable to go into a soil compost," Kilmartin adds. "We've been doing some trials to see how seedlings will grow, and it seems to help if you take some of those tannins out to make it more usable as a compost mix."

What does 'clean wine' mean?

It's a phrase that's being used more and more - but does 'clean wine' mean anything? Anne Krebiehl MWJanuary 1, 2021 Credit: Unsplash / Big Dodzy Ask Decanter Highlights Magazine: December 2020 Issue Kath Osborne, by email, asks: I keep seeing the phrase 'clean wine'. What is this? Is it the same as natural wine? Anne Krebiehl MW, a regular contributor to Decanter, replies: Clean wine is nothing but a marketing ploy that exploits consumer ignorance about how wine is made. This concept has worked in cosmetics for a long time, and now cynical marketeers are applying it to wine, declaring their product as 'clean', implying that it is produced to supposedly higher health standards than other wines - denigrating those in the process. No wine is 'clean', because wine contains alcohol. 'Clean' wine cannot be compared to natural wine, which, without legal definition, usually means wine made from grapes grown with low environmental impact and vinified either without additives or with as few as possible, notably the preservative sulphur dioxide. In a way, most of these wines are far 'cleaner' than those purporting to be 'clean'. Concerned consumers are better off looking for wines that have been certified organic, biodynamic or sustainable. This was first published in the December 2020 issue of Decanter magazine.

The Anatomy of a Champagne Bottle

Like most of us, the world's most famous sparkling wine has had a challenging year. From April to August 2020, Champagne sales were down to the equivalent of $2 billion, with roughly 100 million bottles unsold, according to Forbes. Fortunately, you don't need to be at a lavish party, wedding or anywhere other than your couch to enjoy Champagne. There are quality bottles available at different price points for celebrating holidays, anniversaries or the fact that you have an unopened bag of potato chips all to yourself. As with many French wines, complex rules govern Champagne production, labeling and packaging. Want to understand why Champagne corks look different from still wine closures, or why there might not be a vintage printed anywhere on the bottle? Learn how to read a Champagne label and more with this infographic. A Guide to Champagne Bottles How to Read a Champagne Label Published on December 10, 2020

Cakebread 2018 Chardonnay, Napa Valley

Quick Taste Extremely Rare Cakebread Chardonnay One of THE most sought after wines 90 points WA Limited! About Cakebread 2018 Chardonnay, Napa Valley This is indeed a rare treat. Highly allocated Cakebread Chardonnay is one of the most popular wines in the country. We were able to acquire a small quantity for our Wine Express customers. Always a huge hit, grapes come primarily from their vineyards in Carneros and begin with night harvesting, which ensures the grapes are picked cold and retain their fruit purity and bright natural acidity. After a short drive to the winery the fruit is whole-cluster-pressed further preserving freshness and purity. The juice is then transferred into French oak barrels to ferment. In order to achieve maximum fruit expression, The wine is aged on primary yeast lees for eight months with intermittent stirring of the lees to enhance texture and boost complexity. Extremely limted!The Wine Advocate scored this 90 points saying "The 2018 Chardonnay comes 95% from Carneros and 5% from Napa Valley. Barrel fermented in 33% new oak, it spent eight months on the lees, and 18% went through malolactic. It was bottled June 1, 2019. Slowly, it reveals very pretty poached pears, apple pie and apricot scents with touches of beeswax, toasted almond and lanolin. Medium-bodied, the palate has great poise and finesse, delivering a racy backbone and loads of tight-knit stone fruit flavors, finishing long and toasty." Wine Details Alcohol % 14.5% Bottle Size 750 ml Wine Type White Country United States Region California Appellation Napa

2019 CHARDONNAY Ferrari-Carano

SONOMA COUNTY 90 pts, Sunset Magazine! 90 pts Jeb Dunnuck! This wine is comprised of grapes from 60 different vineyard lots in Sonoma County that are blended together to create one full-bodied, delicious Chardonnay. $23 $18.40 Wine Club - Join BUY NOW AROMAS & FLAVORS This Chardonnay delights with aromas of citrus, pear, vanilla, graham cracker and buttercream perfectly balanced by vibrant, rich flavors of baked apple, apricot, cinnamon and hazelnut. Lingering creamy and toasted oak notes round out the finish. FOOD PAIRINGS This versatile Chardonnay pairs perfectly with seafood, poultry, white meats and dishes with cream sauces. Try preparations that include citrus, butter, cream, cheese, bacon, nutmeg, thyme, basil or toasted nuts. HOW IT'S MADE The grapes are destemmed, pressed, then cold settled in stainless steel tanks before moving to barrels for fermentation. Aged separately in French oak, the wine completes 92% malolactic fermentation, is then sur lie aged and stirred every two weeks until final blending in May, followed by bottling in June. THE VINTAGE The winter of 2018‐2019 brought above average rainfall to the North Coast, with the bulk of the rain falling from January through May. Spring temperatures were moderately cool, and that led to warmer weather in August through October and ideal conditions during harvest. The end of August saw a bit of a heat wave, but the month of September was perfect for ripening. The white wines grape harvest was finished on October 7th.