Apparel Construction Final Exam

Rolled hem placket

no slit, cuff directly attached.

Backside darts

on butts darts in the center must be longer than side butt darts

Fly zipper

one separate piece lapped on one, bottom application

coil/teeth

part of zipper that comes together, polyester or metal

Interfacing

placed between the garment fabric and facing to reinforce, adds body and guarantees stiffness. usually used for front edges for buttonholes, collars, cuffs, waistbands

Quality Stitches

- correct length for garment - suitable weight and color of thread (slightly darker then fabric) - Short, neat, continuous stitches, looks the same on both sides, securely fastened at ends. - Reinforcements, back stitching

Grainline

remains straight, true, and lies so it will be perpendicular to the floor

French seam

seam within a seam that encloses the raw edges of the fabric to prevent fraying

Physical features

seams, stitches, have to correlate with performance features. fabric is the fastest way to change cost.

Shaped facing

separate piece of fabric cut from a pattern to the same shape and on the same grain as the garment edge it will finish

Centered zipper

shows on front, must use facing, opens at the top and has a stop at the bottom, used on skirts, jackets, necklines, long sleeve openings etc.

Gathers

similar to ease stitching, big stitches pulled together to create small gathers, never fully stitched down, creates immediate fullness, creates a "puffier" look, depends on fabric

Kimono Sleeve

sleeve and garment front are all one piece, closer fit at shoulders.

Dolman Sleeve

sleeve and garment front are all one piece, wide at shoulder and narrow at wrist, a bat like look.

Raglan Sleeve

sleeve is sewn into a front and back diagonal seam that extends from the armhole up to the neckline. can use darts at shoulder for a tighter fit.

Tucks

small folds stitched down (half-way or fully) typically on grain, take up of excess fabric of a determined amount, holds fullness in place, can be used instead of darts to create a softer design effect

Dart legs

stitch lines on both sides of the dart

Zipper facts

stops can be on top or bottom, can make zippers shorter but not longer, create a new stop by bunching teeth,

Waist Seam

Attaching bodice to skirt or dress, may need to use stay tape to sew into seam for strength and stability

French Cuff

Extra wide, meet up instead of lapped over, fold cuff over.

Securely

Fasteners, buttons, hooks, etc. need to be ______ sewn on.

fabric quality

Fastest way to change the cost of a garment?

Reinforcement stitch

turn knob to 1-1.5 (17 stitches per in.)

Basting stitch

turn knob to 4 (6 stitches per in.)

Regulation stitch

turn know to 2.5 (10-12 stitches per in.)

Clean finish seam

turns all the raw edges to the inside and clean lines to the outside

Lining

used for comfort, feels soft, easier to take clothing on and off, used to protect garment fabric, helps preserve garment shape etc.

Plain seam

used on side seams to connect two pieces of fabric together; typically 5/8 in seam allowance; 10-12 stitches per inch

Dart tuck

used to control and release fullness as well as to create design details

Over cast open

using the serger to finish edge leaving seam edge openings separate

Dart point

vanishing point at the small end of the dart

Darts

wedge shaped tuck that allows a flat piece of pattern to lay flat against your body

Set-in sleeve

Sleeve is completed before being attached to the armhole, armhole seam circles the arm near the shoulder with side seams and shoulder seams already sewn.

Shirt sleeves

Sleeve is stitched into the armhole while both the sleeve underarm and side seams remain open. ease around the armhole, reinforcement stitches in underarm area.

Consistent, secure

Stitches, pleats, darts, tucks, and hems should be _________ and _________.

improve

Support fabrics should help ______ the garment.

Dart excess

wide end of the dart is the widest end of the dart legs

Bishop Cuff

wide up top until it gathers at the wrist

Faced Placket / Shirt sleeve Placket

Finishes the raw edges of the placket, can lay flat or have shape, most want them to lay flat

Tailored Placket / Neckline Placket

Two additional pieces used (one for each edge), top stitching always used, stronger and sometimes bulkier, can be decorative.

Knife pleats

all pleats are folding in the same direction

Good fit

ample ease for movement (fiber content), wrinkles = poor fit (points out excess or lack of material; depending on fabric), grain should hang up and down on the body, shaping devices should end 1 in before the fullest part of the body, and pants should not pull past hip.

Lapped cuff

bottom extends past placket opening (bottom under top)

Bound seam finish

bulkier type of edge, using the bias to create a finished look

Placket

can be closed with zippers, snaps, buttons, velcro, etc. can be at neckline, sleeve, fly of pants, etc.

Flat felled seam

clean finish to both sides of garment, 2 rows of stitching

Pleats

controls fullness, wider folds, 5/8 - 2 in pleats

Pleat facts

crossed with waistband, pleat itself is not usually stitched, depending on fabric = amount of control, pleats go downward (more flattering)

Extended facings

cut as an extension of the garment and then folded back along the edge it finishes, used on garments w front or back openings cut on a straight line

Contoured waistband

designed to fit the natural waistline. therefore, pattern pieces are shaped to fit the body's curves

Ease

dont want to see any of the gathers while looking at garment

Quality construction

effort and time put in including, reducing bulk, grain hanging true, plaid or stripes matching throughout entire garment, appropriate fit, seam allowance size, is garment symmetrical? flat and smooth on right side of fabric.

Welt seam

enclosed raw edges, allows the plain seam to be detailed, often used with yoke seams and with firm fabrics, provides a strong seam construction

Hong Kong seam finish

encloses the raw edges of the seams inside strips of bias, mostly used in very high-end clothes

Pin tuck

evenly spaced parallel folds, 1/4 in or less, and stitched to be released

Vertical darts

excess fabric goes downward

Horizontal darts

excess is pressed into middle of the body

Cut-away darts

extremely wide darts

Zipper tape

fabric on sides of zippers

Facing

fabric used to finish raw edges of a garment at open areas ex. neckline, armhole, front and back plackets or opening

Overcast closed

finishing off both edges of the seam allowance with a serger

Waistbands

finishing off the top edge, sits on top of garment, can be straight, can have a fold w/ a closed edge. 1/2 - 1 in of ease, IS interfaced, if garment material has stretch interfacing needs to have stretch as well

Factors that determine consumers purchases

fit, personal preference, body type, style of garments/line, fabric structure, and fiber content

Performance features

functional; comfort level, durability, care, etc., how it benefits the consumer, aesthetic, design.

Yoke waistline

has the shaping, doesnt need darts, shaped to have garment stay on

1/2 in

hole is ____ from dart point

Box pleats

inside folds come together and outside folds go away from each other

Inverted pleats

inside folds go away from center and outside pleats go towards center

Straight waistband

made with a straight, folded-over band. Band rests above natural waistline on the body and is attached to a skirt or pants. should fit snugly and have apx. 1 in of ease to keep it from being too tight

Slot seam

most used when a lace fabric or contrasting fabric is being wanted to show through on right side of garment

Bias facings

narrow strip of lightweight fabric cut on the bias so that it can be shaped to conform to the curve it will finish

Quality Zipper Construction

-suitable weight -zipper mouth should remained closed -smooth and flat

Quality seams

-uniform width -pressed open and flat -generous enough seam allowance to prevent strain and enough for alterations -pockets, pleats, hems, lapels, and facing allowances; no rips or strains because it is too narrow.

Lapped zipper

1 large flap covering whole zipper

exposed zipper

2 laps of the seam meet at center of the teeth, could easily get caught in fabric

Accordion pleats

3D, most likely heat set, with polyester, heated fibers to set shape, small to big

Bound Seams

Bound seam, Hong Kong seam. Selected for appearance and function of finishing raw edges. Sewn with chain, lock, double lock, or flat seam stitch.

Proportions

Doesnt matter if you gain or lose weight, _______ stay the same.

Superimposed Seams

Plain seam, clean finished seam, overcast open, overcast closed, french seam, slot seam. Sewn with a lock, double chain, or over edge stitch.

International Standards Organization (ISO)

Totality of characteristics of a garment/entity that bare on its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs.

Lapped Seams

Welt seam, Flat felled seam. Sewn with a lock, double lock, or chain stitch. Used for durability and appearance.

Fish eye darts

_____ _____ _____ have 2 points, dart should be 1 in. away from fullest part of body

Fit

_____ affects how consumers feel about your line and how they feel in your clothes which determines who your consumers are.

Darts

_____ can be straight, convex, or concave

Underlining

a backing for the garment fabric, cut underlining from same pattern as the garment, adds body, strength and durability, doesnt add stiffness and doesnt finish the inside of the garment