Chpt 21: Haircoloring
Special Effects Haircoloring
Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring.
Applicator Bottle
Be sure that the applicator is large enough to hold both the color & developer, with enough air space to shake the bottle until the moisture is thoroughly mixed. For a 1:1 ratio, pour 1 oz of the color into the bottle, add 1 oz of developer, put the top on the bottle, & shake gently. For a 1:2 ratio, pour 1 oz of the color into the bottle, add 2 oz of developer, & mix. The latter ratio is for most permanent high-lift blond colors.
Lighteners
Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispensing, dissolving, & decolorizing the natural hair pigment.
Hair Lightening (Bleaching, Decolorizing)
Chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial haircolor from the hair.
Secondary Color
Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors.
Highlighting
Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades & the illusion of depth.
Weaving
Coloring technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zig-zag motion of the comb, & lightener or color is applied only to these strands.
Slicing
Coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1/8 in section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, & applying lightener or color.
Highlighting Shampoo
Colors prepared to by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, & shampoo.
Natural Haircolors (Vegetable Haircolors)
Colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants.
Soap Cap
Combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture & shampoo used the last five minutes & worked through the hair to refresh the ends.
Mixed Melanin
Combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin & eumelanin.
Haircolor Glaze
Common way to describe a haircolor service that adds shine & color to the hair.
Aniline Derivatives
Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules with the cortex.
Strand Test
Determines how the hair will react to the color formula & how long the formula should be left on the hair.
Color Fillers
Equalize porosity & deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair.
Prelightening
First step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner.
Virgin Application
First time the hair is colored or processed.
Demi-permanent Haircolor (No-Lift Deposit-Only Color)
Formulated to deposit but not lift (lighten) natural hair color * Blends gray hair. * Enhances natural color. * Tones pre-lightened hair. * Refreshes faded color. * Filler in color correction.
Hair Structure
Hair is composed of three major components: * Cuticle * Cortex * Medulla
Resistant
Hair type that is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate, & thus requires a longer processing time.
Metallic Haircolors (Gradual Haircolors)
Haircolors containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup & exposure to air creating a dull, metallic appearance.
Hair Texture
- Hair texture is the diameter of an individual hair strand. - The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster & can look darker. Medium-textured hair has an average reaction to haircolor. Coarse-textured has a larger diameter & loosely grouped melanin granules, so it can take longer to process.
Hair Porosity
- Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb moisture. Porous hair accepts haircolor faster, & haircolor application on porous hair can result in a cooler tone than applications on less porous hair. - Degrees of Porosity * Low Porosity * High Porosity * Average Porosity
Tertiary Color
Immediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color & its neighboring primary color on the wheel in equal amounts.
Permanent Haircolors
Lighten & deposit color at the same time & in a single process because they are more alkaline than no-lift deposit-only colors & are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer. * Changes existing haircolor. * Covers grays. * Creates bright or natural-looking haircolor changes.
On-The-Scalp Lighteners
Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with activators.
Cap Technique
Lightening technique that involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, & then combing them to remove tangles.
Volume
Measures the concentration & strength of hydrogen peroxide.
Semi-permanent Haircolor
No-lift deposit-only non-oxidation haircolor that is not mixed with peroxide & is formulated to last through several shampoos. * Introduces a client to haircolor services. * Adds subtle color results. * Tones pre-lightened hair.
Temporary Haircolor
Non-permanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing. * Creates fun, bold results, & easily shampoos from the hair. * Neutralizes yellow hair.
Hydrogen Peroxide Developer
Oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules & create a change in natural hair color.
Baliage (Free-Form Technique)
Painting a lightener (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair.
New Growth
Part of the hair shaft between the scalp & the hair that has been previously colored.
Off-The-Scalp Lighteners (Quick Lighteners)
Powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp.
Activators (Boosters, Protinators, Accelerators)
Powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability.
Base Color
Predominant tone of a color.
Presoftening
Process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color.
Single-Process Haircoloring
Process that lightens & deposits color in the hair in a single application.
Haircolor (One Word)
Professional, salon industry term referred to artificial haircolor products & services.
Primary Colors
Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, & blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors.
Toners
Semi-permanent, demi-permanent, & permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale & delicate colors.
20-Volume
Standard volume; used to achieve most results with permanent haircolor & used for complete gray coverage.
Law Of Color
System for understanding color relationships.
Level System
System that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color.
Porosity Test
Take several strands of hair from four different areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown, & nape). Hold the strands securely with one hand & slide the thumb & fore-finger of the other hand from the ends to the scalp. If the hair feels smooth & the cuticle is compact, dense, & hard, it has low porosity. If you can feel a slight roughness, it has average porosity. If the hair feels very rough, dry, or breaks, it has high porosity. Observe hair wet & dry to see porosity. Extremely porous hair rejects warmth when color is applied & can process more quickly which results in deeper color.
Reverse Highlighting (Low-lighting)
Technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color.
Patch Test (Predisposition Test)
Test required by the Federal Food, Drug, & Cosmetic Act for identifying a possible allergy in a client.
Tone (Hue)
The balance of color.
High Porosity
The cuticle is lifted. The hair is overly porous & takes color quickly; color also tends to fade quickly. Permed, colored, chemically relaxed, & straightened hair will have a high degree of porosity.
Average Porosity
The cuticle is slightly raised. The hair is normal & processes in an average amount of time.
Low Porosity
The cuticle is tight. The hair is resistant, which means it is different for moisture or chemicals to penetrate. Thus, it requires a longer processing time.
Developers (Oxidizing Agents, Catalysts)
When mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules & create a change in hair color.
Foil Technique
Highlighting technique that involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, & then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap.
Brush & Bowl
Use a nonmetallic mixing bowl. Measure & add the developer into the bowl. Add the color(s) you have selected in the appropriate proportions. Using the applicator brush, stir the mixture until it is blended.
30-Volume
Used for additional lift with permanent haircolor.
Fillers
Used to equalize porosity.
Conditioner Fillers
Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair & equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand & scalp to ends.
10-Volume
Used when less lift is desired, to enhance a client's natural hair color.
40-Volume
Used with most high-lift colors; provides maximum lift in a one-step color service.
Line Of Demarcation
Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.
Double-Process Application (Two-Step Coloring)
A coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is pre-lightened before the depositing color is applied to the hair.
Glaze
A non-ammonia color that adds shine & tone to the hair.
Complementary Colors
A primary & secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel.
Pheomelanin
The melanin that gives blood & red colors to hair.
Eumelanin
The melanin that lends black & brown colors to hair.
Hair Color (Two Words)
The natural color of hair.
Hair Density
The number of hairs per square inch & can range from thin to thick. Density must be taken into account when applying haircolor, to ensure proper coverage.
Intensity
The strength of a color.
Level
The unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color.
Contributing Pigment (Undertone)
The varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process.
