Couture

crinoline and worth

1840 on- skirts cont. to grow in size until they req. petticoats to hold them out; crinoline(cage) was devised in 56; made of concentric metal circles, allowed skirt to bell out

1900

200 members of Chambre Syndicale; now only 10 official members & 5 correspondants

bustle

68-worth introduced a new silhouette; using tons of fabric; skirt was flattened in front and fullness swept to the back

gigot sleeve

88- stiff and flat skirt that flared in the back to form a short train - moved away from bustle

for the spring-summer2012 OFFICIAL MEMBERS

Adeline Andre;Gustavo Lins;Chanel;Christian Dior;Christophe Josse; Frank Sorbier; Givenchy; Jean Paul Gaultier; Maurizo Galante; Stephane Rolland

chares Frederick worth

Englishman; apprenticed @ Swan's & Edgar's; sold ladies dress fabric; moved to paris 1845, hired by Gagelin's (fine fabric emporium, sold mantles and shawls) met wife Marie there; she modeled wraps for clients; began designing dresses for her to wear; asked for orders; Gagelin's opened small department for dresses would not offer partnership; left in 1856

couture

French term for the business in which original apparel designs are created by designers & the items are manufactured in the couture house using exceptionally fine sewing tailoring and expensive fabrics

chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne

an org. est. to maintain the standards of couture design & protect couture designers from piracy; 1868; acquired the name in 1885; Gatson Worth (son of Charles) realized that the growing competition amount couturiers required a more specific and coherent management; part guild, part union; the chambre set forth the criteria that won a designer haute couture status

piracy

big issue ; distinctions were made between innocent trickle down & big business plagiarism; every dress designed by one of the Chambre members required a sketch, photo & fabric swatch when registered

guidelines for Chambre Membership3

collections presented 2 times a year in paris on dates set by the chambre; each collection composed of not less than 75 pieces and presented on at least 3 live models; in addition... the fashion house must also present the collection 45 times in its own premises

chares Frederick worth2

court dressmaker for Empress Eugenie of France & Empress Elizabeth of Austria; dressed royal courts of Euro & America; known for opulent designs and lavish use of fabric and ornamentation; innovations in silhouette; died in 1895; quality of garments

Atelier

creation of the garments occur primarily in the maison particulieres "on location" so as to be under daily supervision of the designer; process begins with a sketch or with a muslin or toile, draped & cut

worths innovations

dev. a system of pattern parts that prov. near perfect fit w/ fewer fittings; 1st to present annual collections from which his clients could choose personal wardrobes; made visiting couture house social event; superb tailoring of England to Paris

CORR. members (foreign)

elie saab; Giorgio Armani; giambattista Vali; Valentino; Versace

charles Frederick worth

father of couture; fashion dictator; req. customers to come to him; "house" became the longest running fashion dynasty to date

couture house divided in 2 parts

flou (dressmaking); tailleur (tailoring of suits and coats)

haute couture

only firms that create models that may be sold to private customers or to other segments of the fashion industry who also acquire the right to produce the designs; designers show at least 2 collections a year of original designs to the public; protected by law in France

belle epoque

pastel colors & light materials; cutout work of chine (expensive to make as pattern is printed on the warp before the weft is woven) prod. blurred effect; applied to lace, adds liveliness to flowers; Claude Monet;

guidelines for Chambre Membership4

patterns duplicated by the firm can only be made to the measurements of the clients NO MASS PRODUCTION

guidelines for Chambre Membership 1

patterns must be exclusively created by the fashion designer or the designer's team of permanent modelists & must be made in the firm's own workshops

premier d'atelier

trans. the sketch or toile (draped sample) into fashioned design; a client is led through the process by a vendeuse- high smart sales person

refers to high fashion; the latest and most advanced fashion and the finest construction, and the French fashion system itself

true

guidelines for Chambre Membership2

workshops must employ min. of 20 ppl with a prod. staff that includes premires & seconds d'atelier (vendeuses) and mains