Knots and Hitches

overhand slip knot

-attach a tie off loop or one end of a personal anchor to a carabiner

autoblock hitch

-similar to klemheist but should only be made with accessory cord -often used as a self belay during rappel

overhand knot

- prevent unraveling of rope ends - prevent sliding

munter hitch

-a hitch in the rope, with a carabiner, to create friction -can only be used effectively with a pear-shaped or HMS locking carabiner -great for belaying a leader or lowering a climber

girth hitch

-attach webbing to a natural anchor or to a pack's haul loop

double bowline

-can tie the middle climber into their harness -finish with an overhand knot or locking carabiner -two non tightening loops in the middle of a rope -more comfortable

clove hitch

-clip into locking carabiner attached to an anchor -makes it easy to adjust the length between the belayer and the anchor without unclipping the rope from the carabiner

overhand loop

-create leg loop in accessory cord (Texas-prusik) *tie using a bight instead of a loose end

water knot (ring bend)

-for tying a length of tubular webbing into a runner -chest harness *can work loose over time so cinch tight and check often *tail should be 2-4 inches

figure eight bend

-join two ropes together -create a cordelette or equalette for anchors *dangerous if tied as "offset" by holding the two loose ends parallel

fisherman's knot (bend)

-join two ropes together -has been replaced by double fisherman's bend

single bowline

-makes a loop at the end of the climbing rope that will not slip -can secure a rope around a tree or other anchor -the loose end of the rope should come out on the inside of this knot's loop (if not, it's weaker) -tie off with overhand knot

square knot (reef knot)

-non-slip knot -can be used as a rappel knot -finish off a coil of rope

offset overhand bend

-rappel knot in icy conditions -double-rope rappel

bachmann hitch

-same use as a prusik but it's tied around a carabiner

klemheist hitch

-same use as prusik but it can be made from webbing when you are low on cord.

butterfly knot

-stays in position when pulled from either side -can put in the middle of rope -put a locking carabiner through the loop

figure eight on a bight

-strong knot that can be easily untied after being under a load. -anchors

rewoven figure eight

-tying into your seat harness -can be used to connect a rope to an anchor

prusik hitch

-used for ascending and descending a rope -requires a girth hitch and a few wraps of accessory cord

mule knot

-used to temporarily tie off a belay to a fallen climber so both hands may be used to set up an anchor and free oneself from the rope

double fisherman's knot (bend / grapevine knot)

-very secure for tying two ends of ropes together for rappel -or secure loops in round cords