textile

intimate blend yarn

A blend with an even distribution of the blended fibers is known as ... Cotton/polyester blends are common

Length

Broadly divided into staple and filament fibers based on length. This is important for grading cotton and wool. Fiber length affects appearance, strength, and hand.

Natural fibers

Natural fibers are found in nature in fibrous (fine and threadlike) form. Cellulose and protein are the two major categories.

Luster

This refers to a fiber's sheen or shine.

Manufactured staple fibers

are cut to a definite length.

Cellulose

cotton, flax , ramie

Tenacity

is the fiber's strength per unit size.

Synthetic:

nylon, polyester, acrylic, modacrylic, spandex , olefin

Binder

often used to tie the effect strand to the base strand if necessary

Base/core strand

provides structure and strength

Novelty yarns

typically made of two or more strands, are produced to provide decorative surface effects.

Storage:

resistance to insect damage, resistance to mildew, fabric construction

Power Stretch

s fabric that stretches normally in the range of 30%-50% with good recovery, for figure-controlling purposes, as is required in such apparel applications as active sportswear and foundation garments.

Flat and/or edge abrasion

wear in a fabric when the fabric is moving.

Flat abrasion

wear of a fabric surface when the fabric is stationary

Protein

wool, specialty wool, silk

Core spun

yarn made of cotton or another staple fiber is twisted around an elastomeric filament and is used as the filling yarn in comfort stretch fabrics .

Flock, Flake, and Seed yarns

yarns have small tufts of different colored fibers added at intervals. These tufts can be easily pulled out.

Slub

yarns have thick areas created by changing the yarn twist during t he spinning process and are produced with staple yarns. The slub cannot be removed without damaging the yarn.

Yarn Classification

•Based on method of construction, yarns are classified as:- simple - novelty (also known as complex or fancy ) - composite

Manufactured fibers

•Fiber size can be changed by changing size of spinneret •Inherently lustrous. Can be delustered •Additives/color pigments can be added to the solution prior to extrusion through the spinneret •Produced as continuous filament fiber;can be cut to produce staple fibers

Bicomponent fibers

•Made from two different polymer variants of the same polymer.

Microfibers

•Soft, flexible materials less than 1 denier per filament. The larger the denier, the coarser the fiber. •Filament fibers are extremely fine. Natural fibers cannot be made into microfibers.

Spandex

Spandex is the most commonly used elastomer.•Spandex (and other elastomeric fibers) is combined with other fibers to produce comfort stretch and power stretch fabrics.

Dimensional

Stability is the ability of the fabric to resist shrinkage or growth during use and care.

Spun Yarns•

Systems used to prepare and twist staple fibers into spun yarns are: -Cotton (most common) -Woolen/worsted-LinenFiner, smoother, better quality yarns are produced by combing fibers for better alignment and removing short fibers prior to spinning.

Modified cellulose fibers: Cellulose DerivativesAcetate, Triacetate.

Thermoplastic.Inherently lustrous, low tenacity, low elastic recovery. Action of heat: melts. Acetate: moderately hydrophobic. Triacetate: hydrophobic. They are prone to static buildup. Both produce lustrous fabrics, including satins and taffetas. Acetate is often used for linings in coats even though its abrasion resistance is low. Excellent drape. Triacetate fabrics can be heat set so pleats retain their shape very well; acetate fabrics cannot be heat set

Polyester.

Thermoplastic.One of the most versatile manufactured fibers. It is easily blended with most other fibers. Polyester/cotton is common. Polyester fibers and blends are engineered to resemble several types of natural fibers. Recycled polyester fibers are produced using post-‐consumer PET bottles and can be used for fabrics for clothing. Tenacity: medium-‐high. Elastic recovery: high. Resiliency: high. Hydrophobic. Fibers can be engineered to enhance liquid transport properties to make them comfortable during hot weather. Considered high strength.

Effect strand

creates decorative detail such as knots and loops

Drape

describes the way a fabric falls when it hangs.

Moisture Properties

include absorption, adsorption, and wick ability.

Fiber Structure

includes all properties that are visible and visible only under a microscope. These characteristics are engineered or changed for manufactured fibers during the production process.

Comfort

includes characteristics or properties that enable the body to maintain close to core temperature, allow ease of body movement, do not irritate the skin.

Aesthetics

includes properties that affect fabric appearance when an item is new and during its use.

Ironing:

ironing temperature. Heat settings on an iron must be followed. Synthetic fibers will melt if the setting is too high.

High twist yarn

is typically used for crepe fabrics. Highly twisted yarns typically increase stretch and give fabric a rough, pebbly texture and a lively hand.

Yarn

is a continuous strand of fibers used to weave or knit fabrics.

Affinity for Oil

is a fiber's ability to absorb oily substances. Those fibers that absorb oil are referred to as oleophilic.

Adsorption

is a fiber's ability to hold water on its surface. It plays an important role in the fiber's ability to transport water (or liquid) along the fiber's surface. This is known as wicking. Wickability affects fabric comfort

Absorption

is a fiber's ability to take in water. Based on their ability to absorb moisture, fibers are grouped as hydrophobic (absorbs moisture)and Hydrophobic (does not absorb moisture). The term hygroscopic is used to characterize fibers that absorb moisture without feeling clammy or wet. Absorption affects skin comfort, static buildup, dimensional stability, stain removal, dye ability, etc.

combination or mixture yarn

is a plied yarn containing two or more yarns that vary in fiber composition, content, and/or twist level.

Comfort Stretch

is a term used to describe fabrics with 10%-15% stretch that are used mostly in garments requiring a moderate amount of elasticity.

Blend yarn

is a yarn obtained when two or more staple fibers are combined in a textile process for producing spun yarns.

Dyeing

is adding color to the textile material or product.

Fabric

is cloth produced by interlacing or interloping yarns or by binding together synthetic fiber webs.

Yarn hairiness

is due to fiber ends that protrude from spun yarns

Yarn twist

is required to hold staple fibers together in spun yarns, whereas it is not required to hold filament fibers together in filament yarns.

Wrinkle Recovery and Crush Resistance

is the ability of a fabric to return to its original position when distorted due to bending wrinkling, and crushing.

Moisture Management

is the ability of a fabric to transport a liquid (typically perspiration) and moisture vapor away from the body.

Abrasion Resistance

is the ability of a fabric to withstand wear caused by rubbing against another fabric or surface.

Shape Retention

is the ability of the fabric to retain its shape after use.

Resiliency

is the ability of the fiber to recover after it has been deformed by compression. Resiliency affects wrinkle recovery and fabric loft.

Elastic recovery

is the ability of the fiber to return to its original length after it has been stretched.

Printing

is the application of dye, pigment, or other chemicals to produce designs on the textile material or product.

Fiber

is the basic unit from which textile products are made.

Static Buildup

is the electric charge that builds up in fabrics made of fibers with poor electrical conductivity. They cling to the body in dry climates.

Elongation

is the fiber's ability to stretch when pulled in opposite directions.

Trademark name

is the name assigned to a fiber that meets the specified criteria. The ™ symbol after the name indicates a trademark and ® indicates a registeredtrademark. They are used to protect products from being copied or counterfeiting.

Generic name

is the name given to a manufactured fiber based on the chemical composition.

Snagging

is the pulling of yarn(s) during use.

Finishing

is typically the last step in the manufacturing process to prepare the fabric for use. It includes a wide variety of processes applied to enhance aesthetics and functions.

Regenerated Cellulose:

lyocel, rayon

Spun yarns.

Produced by twisting together staple fibers, in which twist is necessary to hold the fibers together. They are made of naturally occurring staple fibers, or filament fibers cut into short fibers for spinning.

Monofilament yarn.

Produced from a single filament fiber.Mutifilament yarn. Made of many filament fibers.

•Filament yarns.

Produced from silk fibers that have been reeled from a silkworm cocoon, extruded through a spinneret, or by splitting films.

Regenerated Cellulose Fiber

Rayon. Rayon, modal, and lyocell are regenerated cellulose fibers. Not thermoplastic. Inherently lustrous but can be delustered. Excellent drape. Rayon and modal wrinkle. Viscose rayon has poor dimensional stability. Preferably it is dry cleaned rather than washed. Viscose rayon does not retain its shape well. It is necessary to read the care instructions, as care instructions may vary. Rayon, modal, and lyocell are hydrophilic fibers, comfortable in hot weather. No static buildup. Do not irritate skin. Damaged by prolonged exposure to sunlight.

Flax.Natural cellulosic staple fiber.

Fabrics produced from flax fibers are known as linen. Natural luster. Fibers are relatively stiff. Fabrics wrinkle easily. Comfortable in hot weather. Very good moisture absorption and wicking properties. Does not stretch due to low elasticity. Hydrophobic fiber. Does not irritate skin. One of the strongest natural fibers. Requires the highest heat setting on a household iron. It is susceptible to mildew.

Wool

Fibers are animal hair fibers from the fleece of sheep or lambs. The fibers from other animals are known as specialty wool and fur fibers. Finer wool fibers are used to produce worsted wool fabrics. Wool fibers have scales on the surface of the fiber. When exposed to heat, moisture, and agitation, wool felts, shrinks (due to the scales). Fibers are usually dull. Cashmere wool has a degree of luster. Wool fibers have natural crimp. Excellent wrinkle resistance and recovery. Wool garments do not wrinkle much. Pills form on wool but shed easily. Wool felting is a desirable property for making felt, but undesirable if an item is laundered incorrectly and shrinks. Wool retains its shape and has excellent elastic recovery. Highest moisture absorption of any natural fiber. It is a hygroscopic fiber. It conducts heat away from the body. Its natural crimp allows it to trap air, serving as an insulator. Wool may irritate skin. It is fairly durable. Low resistance to abrasion.

Direction of Yarn Twist

Fibers are twisted together in clockwise (S -‐ twist) or counter -‐ clockwise (Z -‐ twist) direction to form yarns

Effect of Heat and Flame

Fibers that melt when heated or burned are known as thermoplastic fibers.

Specialty wool. Natural protein staple fiber.

Mohair is the hair fiber of the Angora goat. •Angora is the hair of the Angora rabbit. •Camel hair is obtained from the camel. •Cashmere is produced by the cashmere goat.•(Cashgora is a new fiber resulting from the breeding of feral cashmere goats with Angora goats.) •Llama and alpaca •Vicuna

Synthetic Fiber

Nylon, polyester, acrylic modacrylic, spandex, olefin, spandex

Cotton Natural cellulose staple fiber.

Pima cotton is known as extra-‐long staple, a sign of quality. Cotton is the most commonly produced natural fiber in the United States and the world. Polyester is most often combined with cotton to produce easy-‐care fabrics that have the absorbency of cotton and the strength and wrinkle resistance of polyester. Cotton is also blended with spandex and other elastomeric fibers to enhance stretch properties. Cotton fabrics typically have low luster. They wrinkle easily due to low resiliency. Cotton may shrink unless it is pre-‐shrunk. Cotton has low elastic recovery. It is comfortable in hot climates. Hydrophobic fiber. It can feel clammy when wet. It does not irritate the skin. Cotton requires ironing at high temperatures (cotton setting). It is susceptible to mildew and to silverfish.

Silk.Natural protein (extruded) filament fiber.

The only natural fiber produced in filament form. Luxurious appearance. Silk fibers are spun by silkworms to form cocoons. Tussah silk is wild silk. Doupioni silk is reeled from cocoons that became entangled as they were spun. Silk fibers, especially cultivated silk, are lustrous. Silk noil (wasted silk) is dull. Average to good wrinkle recovery. Good dimensional stability. Absorbent and comfortable to wear. Fibers do not irritate skin. Strong fiber. Silk fabrics are easily damaged by exposure to sunlight.

Acrylic, modacrylic

Thermoplastic. Acrylic is a less expensive substitute for wool. It is easier to care for than wool. Modacrylic is an inherently flame retardant fiber and is often used to produce flame-‐resistant fabrics, faux (artificial) furs, and wigs. Acrylic and modacrylic fabrics do not wrinkle. Hydrophobic. While most synthetic fibers are strong, acrylic and modacrylic fibers are comparatively weak. Acrylic is used extensively for cold weather apparel and socks.

Nylon.

Thermoplastic. Tenacity: medium-‐high. Can have exceptional strength. Elongation: high. Elastic recovery: high. Resiliency: high. Hydrophobic. Resistance to sunlight: low. Commonly used for pantyhose.

Crimp

This refers to a fiber's waviness. Wool has natural crimp. Crimp can be added to manufactured fibers. Crimp affects resiliency, resistance to abrasion, stretch, cohesiveness, bulk, warmth, absorbency, luster, and skin comfort.

YARNS/INTRODUCTION

Yarn is a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving/intertwining to form a textile fiber.

Simple yarns

are characterized by uniform size and regular surface. They are broadly divided into single, plied, cord, and rope yarns

Filament fibers

are continuous fibers extending for great lengths. Silk is the only natural filament fiber. All manufactured fibers are produced as filament fibers.

worsted wool

are finer quality yarns produced by combing fibers

Natural Fibers

are found in nature in fibrous (fine and threadlike form). Cellulose and protein are the two major categories of natural fibers. Cellulose fibers are obtained from plant sources. Protein fibers are obtained from animal sources.

Nub, Knot, and Spot Yarns

are generally produced with two strands of yarn. One strand serves as the base yarn and the other as the effect yarn.

Thermoplastic fibers

are manufactured fibers that melt when heated. Allows crimping and heat setting, texturing filament yarns and applying thermal finishes such as pleats. Acetate, triacetate, nylon, polyester, olefin and acrylic are thermoplastic fibers. Note: Acetate cannot be heat set. Thermoplastic fibers have a propensity for static build up. NATURAL FIBERS ARE NOT THERMOPLASTIC

Spiral and Corkscrew

are plied yarns where one ply is soft and thick and the other is fin

Manufactured Fibers

are produced either from raw materials found in nature, or synthesized from chemicals. They are broadly divided into regenerated cellulose, regenerated protein, synthetic, mineral, or rubber.

Manufactured fibers

are produced from raw materials found in nature or are synthesized from chemicals.

Textured yarns

are produced wi th thermoplastic fibers; requiring fiber heat setting. Texturin g increases bulk and/or stretch

Elastomericfibers

are produced with natural and synthetic polymers. Elastomeric fibers have the ability to stretch and return to their original size.

Staple fibers .

are short fibers. All natural fibers (except silk) are staple fibers. Staple fibers are natural fibers or cut lengths from filaments.

Bloucle, Loop, and Ratine yarns

are typically made of three strands. The effect strand forms loops at intervals around the base strand. The third strand, called the binder, is used to bind the effect strand to the base

Mineral

asbestos (not used for health reasons