Textiles AS/A2

EDP

Electronic Data Processing, The use of information eg using databases

uses of CAM

Knitting, Weaving (Jacquard weaving to produce complex patterns in woven cloth) Lay-planning, Cutting (using a laser) Sewing, Pressing, embroidery

Mothproofing

Mitin is used, chemicals are apllied to make the fibres ineduble to moth grubs

Bast

Natural Fibre, strong, cellulosic, obtained from plants (flax,hemp)

QRM

Quick response manufacturing - its used to produce garments quickly in response to customer demand. Manufacturers use information from EPOS tills in the shops which give details of what is being sold. it reduces the levels of finished goods waiting in stock and cuts the cost of tying money up stock

Acetate

Regenerated, Cotton cellulose and acetic acid. 95% of it can be recycled, produced as filaments and microfibres.

Uses of Fluorofibres

To protect fibres and leather, garments, upholstery, curtains, sportswear, ties, matresses, work wear, shoes

Metal buttons

a button used for blazers, jeans and knitted waistcoats

Heat-sealing

a joining method used for synthetic fibres made from thermoplastics, such as polyester or nylon. it is used to set a material into shape (e.g pleats). it is also used to seal the seams on tents and all- weather gear to make them waterproof

Target market groups

a product will be more successful and therefore more profitable if it is aimed at the needs and wants of a particular market segment. consumers can be divided by age group, gender, level of disposable income and end-use

Developments of yarn production

blended yarns such as lyocell and lycra. heat treatments on yarn to give texture such as crimping or bulking

Cupro

comes from cotton, regenerated, breathable, machine washable, anti static, resists stretching at high temperature, hypoallergenic, retains dye well

Flourescent whitening agents

commonly used to whiten all fibre types. these are colourless dyes which cause the fabric to reflect an ultraviolet light which makes it appear whiter and brighter. These are broken down by the bleaches commonly used in home laundering, and is often the reason why consumers are advised not to bleach white cotton fabrics.

CAD

computer aided design, it includes all the computer applications and hardware devices used to aid digital design. this speeds up the design process by making it quick and easy to test and modify ideas before production starts. this reduces mistakes and cuts costs.

CATS

computer aided textile supervision, minimises inspection costs while enhancing product value

Yarn dyeing

method of dyeing in which yarns are dyed before being made into a fabric

developments of colour application

printing techniques such as; dye sublimation and digital printing mean higher definition of colours, higher quality print higher colour fastness of dyes

Flame resistance

proban - reduces the flammibility of fabric, increases stiffness, adds to cost

Transfer printing

the transference of an image to fabric via paper (like heat press transfer) sublimation inks are used

Fastenings health and safety issues

trousers for small boys should not have a zip fastening fastenings and other trims used on clothing for small children should not resemble food the elderly and disabled people may have difficulty with some fastenings

Vivienne westwood

1941- present british fashion designer famous for her bondage collection of studded strappes and buckled clothing

Tencel

A modern microfibre made from cellulose (derived from wood-pulp). used for shirts and jeans. soft handle, good drape, breathable, durable, crease resistant, easy-care and biodegradable. it is absorbent but has a low warmth

developments of finishes

Bio stoning or resin treatments (such as teflon stain resistant)

Developments of fabric productiom

Biomimetics - fabrics that imitate nature, for example: Fastskin by speedo (fabric for swimwear that acts like shark skin) Stomatex (fabric that imitates the way the surface of a leaf breathes and regulates temperatures Super microft (fabric that imitates the self cleaning surface of the lotus leaf Anti-gravity fabric (imitates the feet of the gecko lizard that can climb up walls or hang off ceilings like spiderman)

developments of decoration

CAD embroidery techniques - quick, efficient, consistent quality.

Uses of Polyolefines

Carpet backing, sacks, webbing, twine, fishing nets, vegetable bags, ropes. also used for upholstery, or pile of carpets as it is durable and has soft touch and crus recovery. good wicking properties allows it to be used for medical and hygiene products. other uses include awning, synthetic surfaces for sports, sportswear and geotextiles. used for avout 70% of the geotextile market

CAM

Computer aided manufacturing

CIM

Computer integrated manufacture - CIM systems integrate the use of all different functions of computers including CAD/CAM to enable fast, efficient and cost -effective manhfacturing. this includes: Management of product design and development production planning and control quality assurance and control Materials and stock control cost control

Bleaching

Fabrics are sometimes bleached to obtain a fabric which is evenly white before colour is added.

Properties of fluorofibres

Flexible, Durable, Breathable, Easy care, Doesnt dye well, Water repellent, Oil chemical and stain resistant, Windproof, Water - based, CNC free, doesnt harm the environments, Non renewable source, Degrades slowly

Main effects of developments for consumers

Higher performance of products higher levels of comfort better quality products cheaper products more choice of products - easily available increased safety especially for high risk sports etc easy care clothing

Calendering

Like flattening, a mechanical process where fabric is passed through heated heavy rollers under pressure (like industrial ironing) to smooth the surface, and add a sheen

Properties of Acetate

Low Absorbency, Fast drying, Prone to static, Breathable, Slight Lustre, Smooth, Very soft handle, Elegant drape, Low warmth, Dyes well, Quite elastic, creases easily, Thermoplastic( sensitive to dry heat), Biodegradable and recyclable, Inexpensive to produce

Garment Dyeing

Made-up garments are dyed as required. this allows manufacture of fashion products to apply colour at the last minute as and when there is consumer demand for the latest shades

Uses of Acetate

Silk type fabrics for eveningwear, Microfibre performance fabrics, Embroidery Yarns, Ribbons and Trimmings. Can be blended with woop or viscose for winter fabrics, or cotton, linene or silk for summer, polyester and elastane

Polyolefines

Synthetic, made from petrochemicals

Properties of Polyolefines

Thermoplastic with a low melting point, High strength, Resistant to chemicals, Non-absorbent, Very good wicking properties, Crease resistant, Soft when finely spun, Good soil and stain release (but not oil or grease), Non-allergenic

Raschel Lace

Warp Knitted, doesnt stretch significantly, used as unlined material for coats, jackets, straight skirts and dresses, curtains, bedspreads, or decorative edging on garments

Locknit

Warp knit, a combination of tricot and 2X1 plain knit stitches, made from filament yarns. lustrous fabric used for lining and underwear. The face of the fabric has vertical wales of small loops, the back shows a zigzag stitch formation

Pique Fabric

Weft knit, also known as mesh, tiny holes and a smooth fabric back. designed to pull moisture from the skin and wick it into the air, keeps wearer cool and dry. Pique is the original performance fabric. used in the 1920s for tennis and polo shirts, moving away from long sleeve shirts. Today , pique knit polo shirts are popular for everyday qear and corporate apparel

Uses of CAD in textiles design

Wire frame modelling, surface modelling or solid modelling can be used to texture map or simulate virtual products in 3D, which clients can choose one to be sampled in fabric. this saves the time and cost of sampling a large section of real products. Graphics applications enable ease to the production and storage of accurate working drawings and lay plans Colour ways can be accurately modelled at the design stage Material quantities and costs can be easily calculated. Computer networks improve communication between designers, clients, manufacturers, thus speeding up the design-feedback loop Fabric design ( used to store colour and design information, create and modify ideas quickly and easily, used for texture mapping of fabric designs onto virtual products) product design/product modelling (show 3D virtual products to clients in screen, to present a virtual catwalk show to clients, to make accurate drawings for manufacturing specification) pattern production and grading (adapted patterns are digitised onto computer, automatic grading of patterns - increasing or decreasing flat pattern pieces to create a larger or smaller sized garments e.g 8,10,12 etc)

Nylon buttons

a button used for coats, jackets, sports and leisurewear

Wooden buttons

a button used for knitted and sports garments

Polyester buttons

a button used for shirts, blouses and underwear

Leather buttons

a button used for sports jackets and knitted cardigans

Moth of pearl buttons

a button used for womens outerwear and underwear

Water Repellency

a chemical finish, a teflon or scotchguard resin finish applied to repel water

Laminating

a chemical finish, combining two or more layers of different materials which are bonded together by glue or heat (usong iron-on interfacing is an example)

Metal hooks and eyes

a components used for trousers and skirts

Standard

a fashion product which is introduced into stores slowly, moves up to top seller and then quickly declines, but unline a fad it may reappear in later years

Metal or plastic press studs

a fastening component used for a range of garments and household goods

Metal, leather or plastic buckles

a fastening or component used for belts and clasps.

Nylon Velcro

a fastening used for a range of fashion garments, sports and leisure goods

Yarns

a fine continuous length of fibres or filaments, with or without a twist. usually spun into a variety of types (single, ply, cabled, core, spun or fancy) thickness and tightness of the twist affect a fabrics weight, flexibility, handle, texture, appearance and end use. too much twist will make it hard, where as too little a twist will make it weak. Soft knitting yarns have less twist, warp yarns for weaving need a higher twist to withstand the tension in the loom.

Fixation

a finish where the colour or print is fixated into the fabric (made permanent) can be through chemicals or steam. this makes the fabric colourfast (so that the colour doesnt wash out)

Drying

a finishing process where fabrics are dried at a consistent heat and air flow.

Washing

a finishing process where fabrics are washed before they are manufactured into products. they are also tested in laboratory conditions to ensure that they can withstand certain temperatures and conditions

Madras

a light cotton woven plaid fabric used for shirts, dresses

Stone/sand washing

a mechanical finish used to give a newly manufactured cloth or garment a worn-out appearance. it also helps to increase the softness and flexibility of otherwise stiff and rigid fabrics such as canvas and denim. the process uses large stones to roughen up the fabric. the garments are then placed in a large horizontal industrial clothes washer that is also filled with large stones. as the wash cylinder rotates, the cloth fibres are repeatedly pounded and beaten as the tumbling stones ride up the paddles inside the drums and fall back down onto the fabric

Beetling

a mechanical finish where fabric is passed through a machine with revolving wooden hammers that gives fsbric a lustruous sheen

Laser-cutting

a mechanical finish, it provides a clean cut on synthetic materials and seals the edges. intricate shapes can be cut out or engraving fabric is possible by setting the laser higher

Shrinking

a mechanical finish, some fabrics need to be pre-shrunk before being made into garments e.g cotton

Raising

a mechanical process similar to brushing, a fabric is passed through the rollers covered with fine flexible wire brushes which lift up the fibres to form a soft surface called a 'nap'

Hand dyeing

a method of dyeing in which fabrics are immersed in hot or cold dyes in a dye bath. The dye bath is agitated so the dye reachrs all areas. when the desired colour is achieved the fabric os removed and rinsed to remove excess dye. Then it is fixed with a mordant or a fixing agent such as salt. The strength of a dye colour is determined by the : amount of time in the dye bath absorbency of fibres original fabric colour concentration of the dye colour in the dye bath effective use of mordant or fixative

Rotary screen printing

a method of printing which uses CAD and roller squeegees. one roller is used for each colour. this is a very fast process used in continuous printing of furnishing and clothing fabrics

Elastane (Lycra)

a modern microfibre, its always used as a blend with other fibres. used to make sportswear, body-hugging clothes and bandages. has a good handle and drape, durable; crease resistant, stretchy and is easy to care for. low warmth and is absorbent

Scouring

a preperation for dyeing, it removes fatty and wax impurities which may prevent the fabric from being 'wetted'. Cotton fabrics are scoured by boling them in caustic soda solution. however this isnt appropriate for wool as it could be damaged by the heat and the alkali. instead they are moved through warm detergent solutions to remove te fatty deposits in the fibres. washing the fabrics in solvents can also remove the oils and grease.

Desizing

a preperation process for dyeing, its a starch, gum or gelatine substance applied to warp yarns before they are woven into fabrics. This helps strengthen them so they can withstand the constant movements of the loom. most of these substances are soluble in water so they can be removed by washing

Screen Printing

a printing method where a pattern is printed onto the fabric through a stencil held in place by a screen. each screen prints one part of the design in one colour. after printing the dyestuff must be fixed using steam or dry heat

Block printing

a printing method where metal or wooden blocks are used, one for each colour. the background shapes are cut away to leave a raised design on the block. dye is applied and stamped onto the fabric. this is a slow process used by specialist craft industries

Industrial flat-bed screen printing

a printing process where the fabric is moved through the machine on a conveyor belt and the print repeating rapidly

Classic/Basic

a product is introduced into a store, slowly increases and declines at am average rate but never drops off the scale completely. its top selling point is lower than a fad, but it keeps selling

Fad

a product that is introduced into a store, quickly rises to best seller then almost immediately declines and is unlikely to reappear

One-off production

a production method used for one-off textiles products made by a individual designer/maker, a craftsperson or a company to meet an individual clients requirements. A traditional method which a whole garment is assembled by one operator. Each product is made only once or in small quantities. This process needs highly skilled, experienced operators and versatile machinery. Haute couture is an example of this production method

Batch production

a production method where items are produced in specific quantities. it can range in a number from two to three products or a hundred to a thousand more. each piece of equipment used may be used to make several different products , for example skirts today, trousers tomorrow. this means the machinery used must be far more versatile than mass production. the workers who operate the machinery must also be more skilled because the job they do changes day by day according to the batch run

Mass Production

a production process where large quantities of products are involved. machines are in continuous use for long periods of time, so they are very specialized and expensive. The machinery and the operator skills are highly specific for the job in hand.Equipment, labour and supply of materials and components are well organised to ensure a smooth flow of work and minimise the cost of making each product. computers are used to monitor and control processes. Variations in the products are kept to a minimum, to minimize the changes necessary to the tooling of the changes of the machines which takes time and money. these products are not usually complicated and can be made cheaply e.g tights or vests

Stain resistance

a teflon or scotchguard resin treatment to repel stains

Tex

a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibres, yarns and thread, is defined as the mass in grams per 1000 metres.

Plastic zip fastener

a zip fastening used for lightweight and fine fabrics used in garments and household products

Metal zip fastener

a zip fastening used for sports goods

Single and double-sided zips

a zip used for leisure and sports products

Dope dyeing

also known as spun dyeing, its a process whereby the dye is added to spinning solution of man-made fibres prior to spinning the fibre. this results in having good light and wash fastness

Temperature health and safety issues

certain products need padding to provide insulation against extreme heat e.g oven gloves

Microfibres

combines a high number of very fine fibres into one yarn of decitex or less. 60 - 100 times finer than human hair. can be manufactured from polyester, polyamide or acrylic, or blended with synthetic/natural fibres. used in smart and technical fibres for active wear, all weather wear and for industrial uses

Solvent dyes

dyes which have been developed which are applied to a fabric using organic solvents instead of water. this is because water usage and disposing of it afterwards without causing polution is expensive

EDI

electronic data interchange, allows computers to communicate directly and enables the transfer of data between business partners, via telecommunications links and networks. e.g barcodw is read at the till point and information of stock control goes to manufacturer

Anti - pilling

fabric is treated which chemicals so that it does not form bobbles

Fabric health and safety issues

fabrics must be considered for their ability to burn and or melt easily, which can be particularly dangerous in certain situations e.g nightclothes for children and elderly people, furnishings in public buildings soft toys may be dangerous for young children, especially the wadding material used inside them in some occupations where fire is a hazard, protective clothing will be needed. any place where the public collect together must have flame-resistant furnishings the fabrics has to be safe with no loose fibres or harmful chemical or fabrics for babies, as they put things in their mouths

Colour Fastness

fabrics will need to have fastness for the following : Bleaching, dry cleaning, washing, light (important for furnishing products), perspiration, gas fumes, rubbing

Preperation for dyeing

fibres (especially natural fibres) have natural impurites in them (fats, waxes, salts, oil, dirt, starch), which need to be removed before dyeing, otherwisr the colour or finish will not attach evenly to the fabric

Care labels

found on a textiles product and gives the consumer useful information about product maintenance, provided details include : fibre content, which is the percentage of each fibre used to make a fabric e.g 5p percent cotton, 50 percent polyester Flammability, this is a legal requirement for childrens nightwear Standard care symbols Standard size, for example womens clothes might come in sizes 10, 12, 14, 16

Trade fairs

held all over the world to showcase the latest fibres and fabrics. suppliers have stands at which designers, merchandisers and buyers can browse and find inspiration. for example 'premiere vision', which is held twice a year in paris.

Factory Fusing

in a factory there are two types of mahine used for Fusing. A flat-bed press is used to join short fabric lengths for batch production, and a conveyor press is used for fusing long fabric lengths for mass production

Commercial dyeing

in industrial production fabric is dyed by continuous or batch dyeing

Vicuna

luxury hair fibre, most expensive and rarest natural fibre. warmer than wool due to insulating properties. finer than cashmere (only 12 microns)

Folded Yarns

made by twisting together at least two single yarns. this improves strength, makes heavier structures and can achieve special effects

Filament yarns

made from continuous filament silk and manufactured synthetic fibres such as polyester or nylon

Staple Yarns

made from fibres such as cotton,flax, wool, spun silk or cut manufactured fibres

Repetitive flow production

manufacture is divided into sub-assembly lines that each focus on one area of the process

Developments of garment production

mass production and automated systems mean that clothes can now be made very quickly and cheaply. manufacturers can respond quickly to demand (QRM)

Just in time stock control

means that materials, components and sub-assemblies are delivered a short time before they are needed. this means that less space is required for storage and no money is wasted on surplus stock. with this type of stock control there must be no mistakes; otherwise production can be held up

Main effects of developments for manufacturers

more efficient systems - lower wastage, lower expenditure increased sales and profit less workers need - again lower expenditure safer practices in factories

Negative effects of developments

more products = more use of resources = adverse effect on the environment encourages people to regard products as throwaway or easy come easy go less employment - bad for economy ethical issues - increased expectation of cheap clothing puts pressure on manufacturers to pay low wages to workers who make the clothing

Pre-manufactured components

most textiles products need components. manufacturers buy these such as zips, buttons etc. they will have a stock of basics and make a special order for specialised components

Developments of fibre productions

organic cotton, spider silk, lyocell, microfibres, nanofibres non traditional fibres sources such as leaf hemp/pineapple/seed etc

Twist yarns

put into yarns during spinning to make them stronger, can be spun clockwise (Z twist) or anti-clockwise (S twist). Fabrics made from spun yarn usually have Z twist in the warp and may have an S twist in the weft. Light is reflected in opposite directions from the two types of yarn, so striped effects can be produced by having alternate stripes of S and Z twist in the warp

Embossing

similar to calendering except the rollers have a raised pattern on them which gets transfered onto the fabric

Direct printing

simplest printing method, creating a positive image in one or more colours onto a white or pale background

Blends

spinning two or more fibres together to make a yarn (for example polyester and nylon). the fibres must be the same length before they are spun into a yarn. Main reasons for blending include: Reduces cost of the fabric, give ifferent effects and handle of fabric, gives specific qualities, makes fabric stronger, easier to care for, more crease resistant, allows fabrics to be heat set.

Stitching

stitching two fabrics together produces an unfinished seam. finishing the seam prevents fraying and produces a hard-wearing neat finish

Influence of trends from fashion, cultural and media sources

street style; developed by teenagers initially but picked up by designers e.g punk, grunge other periods in history; also known as revivalist fashion e.g 50's skirts, 80's shoulder pads modern media, tv and films New technologies, fabrics and processes which give designers oppurtunites to create innovativr products, e.g gore-tex world events e.g environmental concerns,recession

Heat-setting

synthetic fibres can be heat treated to set them permanently into shape, for example pleats. natural fibres have to have a resin treatment first before they can be heat set

Fluorofibres

synthetic, sourced from petrochemicals. synthetic polymer usually used for coating

Stock dyeing

term used for when textile fibres are dyed in a loose form. this method is relatively cheap

Joining

textiles materials are joined by stitching, fusing or heat-sealing

Discharge printing

the creation of a 'negative' image, a white or coloured pattern on a dark background. by using bleach or other chemicals to destroy the dye already present.

Continuous dyeing

the fabric is passed through a dye bath, and then squeezed between rollers to spread the dye evenly and remove excess. this is used for colours that do not need to change too quickly with fashion

Batch dyeing

the fabrics are produced without a dye. Instead they are dyed to order in large batches according to the colours required. this is used for fabrics that have to change in colour frequently because of fashion.

Uses of dyes

there are a number of issues to consider when selecting dyes for a particular end use: colour fastness - shade, how well the dye will stay on/in the fabric cost

Processes of dyeing

there are three steps: immersing the textile in the dye bath the dye attaching to the textile fibre fixing the dye to the fibre

Sharp edges health and safety issues

these must be well padded, the user may not realise that under an attractive fabric is a sharp corner. wire can be particularly dangerous as it may work through the fabric over a period of time. textiles products are checked to ensure that there are no metal objects e.g broken needle parts in the item before it leaves the factory.

Manufacturing specifications

this document ensures that the product is made as the designer intends. it provides clear, detailed instructions about the products styling, materials and construction. it is an essential part of the production plan and enables the profitable manufacture of identical products. it should include the following: a description of the product a drawing to show the front, back and side views clear design and construction details all dimensions, sizes, seam allowances and tolerances information about materials and components, including a fabric sample.

Wool

this fabric often left in its naturally creamy colour, it is never treated with chlorine bleaches as these damage the scales in the fibres. it can be bleached using hydrogen peroxide or sulphur dioxide gas, a reducing agent which removes oxygen from the stain to peave it colourless

Manual flat-bed screen printing

this is a slow printing process, done by hand. it is used by designer-makers for complicated fabric designs or small runs. mesh is stapled to a frame to make a screen. masking tape is stuck to the underside of the screen. a stencil is made from paper. the stencil is placed under the screen but on top of the paper. ink is poured at one end of the screen. a squeegee is used to press down and draw ink across the screen. then the screen is carefully lifted and then the print is checked before the process is repeated

Polyester and cotton blend

type of blend , Polyester cancels out the shrinking, creasing and slow drying of cotton. the cotton makes the fabric better at absorbing moisture and feels nicer on the skin

Digital printing

use ink jet printers to print CAD designs directly onto fabric using special printing inks.

Continual flow production

used for massive volume items; the process runs 24 hours a day and is never shut down

Fusing

used to permanently join two fabrics together using an adhesive resin. fusing by hand is used to join Vilene to the fabric to make it strong and stable. it is also used to reinforce and strengthen fabrics for garments, bags and accessories. it also allows the hem to be turned up without stitching

Atlas

warp knitted, the laps are continued over two or more courses in one direction and after a turning course the laps return in opposite direction to the starting point

Denier

weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn, used to determine the fibre thickness of individual threads or filaments used in the creation of textiles and fabrics. the fabrics with a higher denier count tend to be thick sturdy and durable, where as a low denier count tends to be sheer, soft and silky

Piece dyeing

when woven or knitted fabrics are dyed in the piece

Sub-assembly

where parts of the garment are made seperately to the main parts and joined together at the end. for example shirt sleeves or collar. this is an efficient use of time, equipment and labour and therefore reduces the costs

Roller printing

where print is applied to a fabric using an inked rller, not used regularly in manufacturing, as its more of a traditional method

Straight-line production

work is passed along a production line where each operator is responsible for one task, which they perform repeatedly