TEXTILES - EXAM 1 (1-5) VCU
green cotton
most sustainably grown cotton, is washed with mild soap instead of chemicals or bleach
hemp
bast fiber;
most commonly used fibers in the past; economic importance has decreased
wool, flax, cotton or silk (all natural fibers)
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TABLE 3.2 IMPORTANT AF.
all matter is made of:
chemicals
the most basic monomer is...
glucose
manufactured fibers
(man-made) made into fiber form from chemical compounds produced in manufacturing facilities
compressibility
A&R properties; resistance to crushing -cotton (can produce heavy and compact fabrics like denim) -wool (does not compress easily; bulky fabrics)
creep
a delayed or gradual recovery from elongation. (i.e. the difference in fit between denim shorts at the end of one day of wearing and the fit at the beginning of the next day of wearing
cuticle
a waxlike film covering the primary, or outer, wall. the secondary wall is made up of layers of cellulose
mechanical factors of performance
abrasion, impact or pulling forces
cotton and rayon
absorbant fibers
physical structure, or morphology
can be identified by observing the fiber using a microscope. in this book, photomicrographs, in which fibers are magnified 250-1,000 times show details about a fibers physical structure.
bast fibers most commonly cottonized
flax, ramie, and hemp
seed fiber
grows within a pod or boil from developing seeds; cotton, kapok, coir, milkweed
appearance retention
how the product maintains its original appearance during use and care
orientation
molecular chains that are parallel to each other AND to the fiber's lengthwise axis; high degree of orientation (highly oriented and highly crystalline). However highly crystalline fibers are not necessarily highly oriented.
textile processes:
spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, and finishing of fabrics
milkweed (seed fiber)
(aka. silkweed fiber or asclepias cotton) From a Asclepias Incarnate plant that resembles Kapok Characteristics: soft, lustrous, hollow-floss seed hair fiber Uses: fiber fill in comforters and upholstery Difficult to spin into yarns bc its weak smooth and straight
ramie
(bast fiber); known as rhea, grasscloth, china grass, and army/navy cloth. used for several thousand years in china, japan and kinda. uses: imported apparel like sweaters, shirts, blouses, suits. interiors such as window treatments, pillows, table linens. blended to make ropes, banknotes, cigarette paper, twines. characteristics: fast growth, frequent harvest (min. 60 days), tall shrub that grows in hot climate (heat resistant), cut not pulled because its perennial, strong, least flexible (breaks easily) *relatively inexpensive, cottonized and blends well with other fibers*
interior textiles
(interior textiles or home furnishings) describes textiles and textile products used in the home and other building interiors for functions such as absorbency
identify six issues related to cotton and sustainability
*COTTON CAN NOT BE PRODUCED WITHOUT ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT* 1. cotton that is harvested by machine is often treated with defoliant chemicals to remove the leaves. machine-picked cotton usually also includes impurities such as seeds, dir, and plant residue that requires more effort in cleaning. 2. water-intesntive crop requiring at least 20 inches of rain per year. *rain-fed* 3. tilling the soil contributes to soil erosion by water and wind. *trying to improve production by focusing on locally adapted varieties that require fewer agricultural chemicals and less irrigation, wide crop rotation to avoid depleting the soil of necessary nutrients and mechanical and manual weed control instead of chemical herbicides* 4. genetically modified cotton alters the use of pesticides and is tolerant of herbicides -- insect resistance to GM crops and weed proliferation which leads to pesticide use 5. since cotton is a major cash crop in more than 80 countries, farmers raise cotton for income. so when cotton prices drop or production falls, incomes suffer a similar decrease. (droughts, floods, disease, insect problems or forced child labor) 6. mainstreaming farming methods use extensive agricultural chemicals to fertilize the soil but excess rain can create problems with runoff can be toxic to other plants, insects, animals, and even people.
smart textiles
*are able to deliver medication in slow and controlled doses, monitor pulse and body temperature, promote safety with sensors that identify seat occupancy in vehicles , and keep wearers comfortable by promoting heat loss in warm weather and minimizing heat loss in cooler weather.* sense and react to the environment or stimuli of an electrical, chemical, thermal, mechanical, magnetic, or other nature. undergoing rapid change and of interest to govt. agencies, military, and consumers.
alternatives to cotton
-Organic Cotton -Transitional Cotton -Conventional Cotton -Green Cotton -Color grown cotton
three important cotton groups that are commercially produced
-Upland Cottons (medium staple) (predominately in US, 97%) -Long Staple Cottons (longest) (Egyptian and South American Cottons 3% in US) -Short staple Cottons (shortest) (India and eastern Asia)
cellulose (plant) fibers
-absorbent -heavy -heat resistant -prone to wrinkling -damaged by acids and mildew -highly flammable
explain the differences among naturally colored cotton, organic cotton, green cotton, transition cotton, and conventional cotton.
-naturally colored cotton: has been cultivated for thousands of years. reemergence in the beginning of 1990's to minimize the environmental impact and sustainability concerns of conventionally produced cotton. *produce less fiber per acre, but sell for about twice the price of regular white cotton* the colors deepen with age and care (differs from other fabrics that fade) shorter, weaker, less absorbent and have less uniform properties than white cotton. higher metal content. lower environmental impact, especially in yarn and fabric finishing processes. -organic cotton: produced following state fiber-certification standards on land where organic farming practices have been used for at least three years. *no synthetic commercial pesticides or fertilizers are used.* (more expensive than conventional), to whiten safe peroxide is used. -green cotton: cotton fabric that has been washed with mild natural-based soap but *has not been bleached or treated with other chemicals, except possibly natural dyes*. -transition cotton: produced on land where organic farming is practiced, but the three-year minimum has not been met. (more expensive than conventional) -conventional cotton: cotton that is treated with fungicides etc, possible genetic modification, uses synthetic soils, to white bleach is used.
Fibers based on synthetic organic compounds: esters (polyester)
-nonabsorbent -lightweight -resistant to wrinkling -resistant to most chemicals -melt when exposed to flames or high heat
environmental impacts of bast fibers
-retting (chemical retting = water pollution) -Dew retting is the least harmful to environment, it actually very environmentally sustainable) -fewer chemicals used with flax -soil erosion can be an issue because of how it is harvested -overall less impact than cotton
compare the processing needed to separate fibers from the plant component for each of these groups: seed fibers, bast fibers, and leaf fibers.
-seed fibers: must be separated from the seedpod. (the seed is used to produce animal feed and refined cottonseed oil is used in many human foods.) -bast fibers: come from the stem of the plant, near the outer edge. time-consuming and requires specialized machinery. uses cottonizing makes he bast fiber a length similar to that of cotton (seed fiber) which makes the fibers process-able for equipment designed for cotton (will lack some of their more traditional characteristics like hand, luster, durability) -leaf fibers: the leaf is cut from the plant and fiber is split or pulled from the leaf. *all are either shorter size or cut to be a shorter size similar to the seed fibers, and then is pulled from the original stem, root, leaves.*
cotton
-standard in the industry -slightly irregular contour; pleasing to skin -little crimp -amorphous fiber -opaque -hydrophilic -good heat conductivity/ release heat quickly -poor resiliency -easily compressible; wrinkles easily -poor elasticity -great aging resistance
low-absorbency fiber characteristics include consumer advantages and disadvantages:
-static cling can occur -dries rapidly -has a cool and slick hand -feels clammy next to the skin -waterborne soils do not stain -liquids wick along the fibers' surface, but absorbency is low -does not shrink when machine-washed and machine-dried -does not require ironing after washing -difficult to dye, but dyes are colorfast to washing
fibers classified by two criteria
-the source (natural or manufacturers) -chemical composition (cellulose, protein, mineral, or synthetic)
explain the relationship among serviceability, product development, and product performance
....
linters
.very short cotton fibers that remain attached to the cotton seed after ginning. Can be used to stuff small decorative pillows, candlewicks, mattresses ect. They can be converted into cellophane, photographic film ect.
cotton's major producers are:
1) China (32%) 2) India (21.8%) 3) USA (12.2%)
properties common to all cellulosic fibers
1) Good absorbency 2) Good Conductor of heat 3) ability to withstand high temperature 4)low resiliency 5) low loft, good compressibility 6) good conductor of electricity 7) Heavy fibers 8) Harmed by mineral acids, minimal damage by organic acids 9) Attacked by mildew 10) Resistant to Moths but eaten by crickets and silverfish 11) Flammable 12) Moderate resistance to sunlight
five ways we are constantly trying to breed a better cotton plant
1) minimizing environmental impact 2) better resistance to insects 3) longer cotton fibers 4) enhanced reactivity to dyes 5) better resistance to disease
natural fibers derive their shape from:
1) the way the cellulose is built up during plant growth (cotton) 2) shape of the hair follicle and the formation of protein substances in animals (wool) 3) the shape of the orfice through which the insect extrudes the fiber (silk) *ways how cross-sectional shapes can not be controlled*
identify a natural protein fiber that would be appropriate for each of the end uses listed below and describe the properties that contribute to the end use:
1. area rug in front of a fireplace: wool because of the rich color, texture and appearance retention, durable nature and natural flame resistance. 2. upholstery for corporate boardroom: 3. suit for business travel: 4. tie with small print pattern: 5. casual sweater: 6. sutures for medical use: 7. summer shawl: 8. wall covering:
identify consumer expectations for each serviceability concept for the following products and target markets:
1. carpet for a high-traffic area: durability, safety. 2. shirt/blouse for internship/interview: quality, comfort, appearance retention, aesthetics 3. house coat/robe: safety, comfort, care 4. upholstery of chairs: comfort, appearance, durability, care 5. adhesive bandage: environmental concern, durability, comfort, quality, safety.
describe the properties of wool and silk that some manufactured fibers attempt to duplicate
1. carpeting:
compare cotton performance related to polyester
1. cotton is poor in resiliency, thermal retention, good for light resistance 2. polyester is excellent at abrasion resistance, thermal retention, good for resiliency, excellent at light resistance.
cotton contains:
1. cuticle 2. primary wall 3. secondary wall 4. *LUMEN*
negative environmental effects of cotton
1. excessive use of agricultural chemicals such as pesticides 2. soil erosion due to heavy water use 3. pollution 4. water consumption 5. water runoff of combined chemicals can be toxic to other plants, animals, and humans.
what differences in performance might you expect from fibers in jeans for gardening, day care center carpet, and an erosion control fabric?
1. jeans - u-shaped fiber, absorbent, heat conductive 2. carpet - durable, safety, 3. erosion control fabric - abrasion resistant
describe the similarities in the properties common to all protein fibers
1. resiliency 2. hygroscopic 3. weaker when wet 4. specific gravity 5. harmed by alkali 6. harmed by oxidizing agents 7. harmed by dry heat 8. flame resistance *HYGROSCOPIC*
four types of cellulosic fibers
1. seed fiber 2. bast fiber 3. leaf fiber 4. misc. fibers
to what fiber aspects are differences among cellulosic fibers attributed?
1. seed fiber: grows within a pot or boll from developing seeds 2. bast fiber: obtained from the stem and root of the plant 3. leaf fiber: removed from the views or ribs of a leaf. they differ in the percentage of cellulose present and in their physical structure. molecular chains varies in orientation and length, making for different performance characteristic and hand.
identify a cellulosic fiber that would be an appropriate choice for each of the following end uses and explain why you selected that fiber:
1. sheets for a twin bed in a child's room: cotton because it's hand is good, thermal retention is low, aesthetics are all pleasant. durability is good. comfort is excellent. 2. table cloth: flax because its relatively high in cost, durability is good, aesthetics is good, comfort is high, can be machine washable. 3. area rug home furnishing designers's showroom: sisal because it provides complementary texture and background for interior styles. can be used by itself or with wool and acrylic. durable, ease of application. 4. man's blazer for summer wear: linen (AKA FLAX) because it has excellent comfort, has a good conductor of heat. can be dry-cleaned or machine washed. 5. socks for an athlete: cotton because it is comfortable, it can be machine washed, good hand, thermal retention is low. 6. rug for a fair-trade apparel store: 7. erosion control fabric for a freshly seeded slope: 8. welcome mat for an entry into a home: coir because has good resistance to abrasion, water, and weather. has a stiff wiry texture and coarse size produce fabrics who's weave, pattern or design is clearly visible. 9. fiber for paper currency: cotton and linen because abrasion resistance, poor elongation, recycled denim scrapes are used to make paper currency.
cotton is classified into three basic characteristics:
1. staple length 2. grade 3. character
list five aspects related to textile that concern you in terms of their sustainability or impact on the environment
1. water 2. chemicals 3. forests 4. human health 5. animals that carry diseases
compare the performance characteristics of the following fiber pairs:
1. wool and angora: do not have good dye ability, comfortable, 2. cashmere and silk: lustrous, hand, high quality draping, dry-clean only preferable. 3. mohair and llama: lustrous, high heat retention, less pronounces scales so felting not a big problem *resilient* 4. silk and spider silk: 5. alpaca and camel: heat retention, comfortable, fine fiber
length of cotton staple fiber
1/2 to 2 inches
There are __ standard staple lengths of cottons, all within a __ inch range. Fiber length is very important!
19, 2
Cotton & Polyester account for more than ____ of the global textile fiber market
3/4; agricultural and manufacturing segments depend on them; less responsive to change and provide fewer consumer choices.
length of flax
5-21.5 inches in length 12-16 microns diameter
Flax is similar to cotton in its chemical composition in that its
71% cellulose
explain why wool is not more commonly used in apparel and interiors? what are the reasons you do not own more wool items?
??? only a small amount of wool is used in the united states, domestic consumption of wool compromises only a fraction of a percentage of all fiber used in the united states
elasticity or elastic recovery
A&R properties; ability of a textile to return to its original dimension or shape after elongation -cotton and rayon have poor elastic recovery -nylon and polyester have good recovery
loft of compression resiliency
A&R properties; ability to spring back to the original thickness after being compressed; important for pile fabrics, most knits, and carpets and rugs.
moth resistance
A&R properties; resistance to insect damage, including moths, beetles, crickets, roaches, and spiders.
shrinkage resistance
A&R properties; the ability of a fabric to retain its original dimensions throughout care. related to reaction to moisture or heat; first cleaning cycle will shrink the most; some continue to shrink (residual shrinkage)
dimension stability
A&R properties; the ability of a fabric to retain its original size and shape through use and care; it includes the properties of shrinkage resistance and elastic recovery. - fabrics are carefully measured, cleaned and measured again -calculated based on the difference between the original measurements and the after-cleaning measurements.
resiliency
A&R properties; the ability of a textile to return to it's original shape after bending, twisting, or crushing. -evaluated by # of sharpness and wrinkles in fabric after it is compressed and twisted for a set length of time
mildew resistance
A&R properties; the resistance to the growth of mold, mildew, or fungus. if cotton and other plant fibers are stored in humid and warm conditions, mildew, mold, or fungus growth can occur.
compare the type of textile information available in a technical journal such as AATCC, WWD, and GAP
AATCC - most GAP - average WWD - least
absorbency
C&S properties; the ability of a fiber to take up moisture from he body or from the environment -increase in mass when fiber is exposed to humid air -do not build up static or have cling & they do not attract lint
fineness is measured in millimeters:
Cotton: 16-20 Flax: 12-16 Wool: 10-50 Silk: 11-12
mercerization of cotton
Finish for cellulosic materials that gives a lustrous finish and strengthens them. Treating yarns or fabrics with with sodium hydroxide causes a permanent physical change. Not good for the environment
coir (seed fiber)
From the husk of coconut from Sri Lanka Fibers: long and curly Characteristics: stiff, cinnamon brown color, coarse, wiry, durable Uses: rugs, mats, floortiles, brushes
advantages to crimping
Increases cohesiveness Increases resiliency Increases resistance to abrasion Increases stretch Increases bulk Increases warmth
flax
One of the oldest textile fibers dating back to 8,000 to 10,000 BC from Northern Ireland and Belgium originally. Popular until cotton came up in the 18th century.
cotton properties:
Pleasing appearance, comfort, easy care, moderate cost, durability.
process of bast fibers
Rippling (seed removal by pulling plant through machine)--> Retting (loosening fibers by stem rotting)--> Scutching (crushes outer covering)--> Hackling/combing (removes short or irregular fibers left over. Removes any remaining woody portions left and arranges fibers in parallel)
explain the fiber characteristics that has the greatest influence on thee fiber properties. identify three fibers that perform well for each property
Table 3.2 middle column! 1. absorbency: PBI or wool, chemical composition and amorphous areas 2. cohesiveness: cotton and wool , crimp/twist, surface contour 3. elasticity: rubber and spandex, chemical and molecular structure 4. flexibility: silk and wool, flexible molecular chain 5. hand: crimp, chem. comp., cross sectional shape 6. loft: fiber crimp, stiffness 7. luster: silk, smoothness of fiber, yarn, fabric 8. pilling: cotton and polyester, strength of fiber 9. strength: molecular structure and orientation 10. texture: physical structure 11. wicking: chemical and physical composition
durability properties
a durable product should last a period of time adequate for it's end use; lab results cannot always predict performance when used by consumers. -abrasion resistance -flexibility -tenacity -elongation Review table 3.3 and pg. 46
the term linen refers to...
a fabric made from flax
heat sensitivity
a fiber's reaction to heat; identify safe pressing temperatures and restrict some end uses. (i.e. children's clothing) -nylon and polyester shrink and melt with heat; problem when working near high voltage power lines
fabric
a flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics in any combination. cloth and material.
assortment
a group of fabrics that share a commonality of design, structure, and color. (i.e. an assortment could consist of fabrics of the same structure available a range of colors or one color available in several fabrications)
abaca
a leaf fiber obtained from a member of the banana tree family
density or specific gravity
a measure of fiber weight per unit volume. *lower density fibers can be made into thicker fabrics that tend to be more comfortable than higher density fibers made thicker leading to heavier fabrics*
using figure 3.3 consider how changing a fiber's shape from round to trilobal would impact performance.
a round fiber would attract light and is dirtier than trilobal, trilobal traps light and appears less dirty
textile
a term originally applied to woven fabrics, now generally applied to any flexible material that is composed of thin films of polymers, yarns, or fabrics or materials made of films, yarns, fabrics or fibers. *ever-changing*
appearance-retention properties
a textile should maintain it's appearance during care, use, and storage. resiliency, dimensional stability, shrinkage resistance, elasticity, etc.
safety
a textile's ability to protect the body from harm
polymer
a very large molecule made by connecting many small molecules together. *almost all fibers are polymers made of organic materials*
denier per filament (DPF)
a way of identifying fiber size; it is often used when describing or specifying yarns. -calculated by dividing yarn size by the # of filaments -technical fibers exhibit broadest range, less than 1.0-several thousand
differentiate between the following pairs of related terms:
a. elongation and elasticity: elongation is the material being stretched to form a slightly different form than the original where as elasticity is the material being stretched and then going back to the form it was originally. b. absorbency and wicking: absorbency is the fiber taking up moisture and wicking is when the fiber does not soak in the moisture. the water just sits on the surface c. loft and resiliency: loft is similar to a temperpedic mattress where the original thickness is conserved, resiliency is more like wrinkle free fabric d. heat conductivity and heat sensitivity: conductivity is the ability to transfer heat through fabric (i.e. cotton) and sensitivity is the reaction to heat (i.e. nylon and polyester they shrink) e.hand and texture: hand is the surface of a textile where hand is the way the surface feels on the skin f. cover and translneuce: the ability of a fiber to conceal or protect where translneuce is the ability of a textile to allow light to pass through it. (cotton vs. chiffon) g. care and chemical sensitivity: care is the treatments necessary to maintain the look of a textile product. where chemical sensitivity is the way a textile reacts to the treatments h. strength and abrasion resistance: ability to resist stress and abrasion is the ability to withstand rubbing. (abrasion = pills on clothing, strength = bounty paper towels) i. drape and stiffness: flowy dress vs. small jean jacket j. electrical conductivity and cohesiveness: ...
compare the performance characteristics of the following fiber pairs
a. ramie and cotton: luster is matte, tenacity is good, absorbency is high-excellent, resiliency is poor. both can be machine washed. b. flax and hemp: comfortable, machine washable, good absorbency, low poor elongation, strong, bast fibers c. cotton and hemp: comfortable, good absorbency, machine washable, poor elongation,
hydrophilic fibers
absorb moisture readily; cotton (casual work apparel and children's wear)
hygroscopic fibers
absorb moisture without feeling wet. -absorbency is related to static buildup; these fibers do not conduct electrons readily so they will have static -often used in the winter apparel because it will absorb the moisture of perspiration during physical activity or moisture from melting snow without feeling wet next to the skin.
aesthetics
addresses the appearance or attractiveness of a textile product.
drape
aesthetic properties; a fabric characteristic, the way a fabric falls over a 3D form like a body or a table -fine fibers produce a softer drape than coarse ones -yarns and fabrics are important than fibers in determining drape -chiffon is free flowing - formal dresses; chintz falls in graceful folds - decorative furnishings, and garbadine is stiff & heavy - suits and overcoats.
luster
aesthetic properties; results from the way light is reflected by a surface. shiny or bright fabrics reflect a great amount of light and are used in selected fashion instances or for safety reasons -high luster fibers = bright fibers -low luster = dull -medium = semi-bright or semi-dull -yarn, fabric structure, and finish may change fabric luster -lustrous fabrics reflect a fair amount of light -used in formal apparel and interiors silk is usually lustrous -shiny or bright ones reflect a great amount of light -cotton and wool are usually matte
cover
aesthetic properties; the ability of a fiber t conceal or protect.(cotton is opaque and can be used to produce lightweight fabrics like batiste with good opacity)
translucence
aesthetic properties; the ability of a textile to allow light to pass through it(nylon and polyester are translucent and must be altered by additives or change cross section to provide good cover)
texture
aesthetic properties; the nature of the textile's surface. -natural fibers = more texture due to variations in the structure -yarns, finish, fabric structure affect texture
hand
aesthetic properties; the way a textile feels to the skin. -warm or cool -bulky or thin -slick or soft -feel between finger and thumb -human assessment and instrument measures used to determine suitability for end use important for designers and consumers
conventional cotton
all other cotton; cotton grown and processed by regular mainstream practices
yarn
an assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric. *can be used to make fabrics that are smooth and slick like satin or soft and fuzzy like brushed denim*
product quality
an important dimension in the competitive global marketplace. the term is difficult to define because it means different things to consumers and producers
coloration
any dying process or printing used to add color with dyes or pigments to a textile
gray goods
any fabrics that has not been finished. consumers rarely see grey goods except for home sewers and quilters who work with muslin
finish
any process that modifies appearance or performance of gray goods ( unfinished fabrics). some make them more comfortable (soft surface) with others. the consumer can't determine the presence of a finish.
fiber
any substance natural or manufacturered, with a high length-to-width ratio possessing suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric; the smallest component, hairlike in nature that can be separated from a fabric. fibers can be: stretchy, absorbent, warm and bulky or strong and abrasion resistant
natural fibers like cotton, ramie, wool, and silk
are subject to growth irregularities and are not uniform
what does a molecular arrangement do?
arrangement of molecules can change the fiber's performance
retting
bacterial rotting process in bast fibers where the fibers are loosened so they can be removed from the stalk and the pectin is decomposed. fiber quality is greatly impacted.
which of these fibers is the most sustainable: seed fibers, bast fibers or leaf fibers? why?
bast fiber, retting removes the fibers from the stem in a bacterial rotting process.
triangular or trilobal fibers
better at hiding soil; carpets
unique and desirable characteristics of flax
body, strength, durability, low pilling, low linting, pleasant hand, and thick and thin texture.
stretching/drawing
causes the chains to slide and become more parallel to each other and to the longitudinal axis of the fiber; it also reduces fiber diameter and compacts the molecules.
apparel
clothing and accessories made from flexible materials
round fibers
common in natural fibers; easy to produce in manufactured fibers; small surface area and may magnify soil, not used for carpet; beside wool -- because it will show dirt more.
alkalis (bases)
compounds that remove hydrogen ions from acids and combine with the acid in a chemical reaction. (soaps, baking soda, ammonia)- bathroom, laundry, kitchen, cleaning supplies
acids
compounds that yield hydrogen ions to alkalis in chemical reactions(fruit or vegetable juice, vinegar, salad dressing, first aid supplies, battery acids, grass stains)- kitchen, bathroom, outdoor, garage
______ is the single most important apparel fabric in the united states
cotton
which fiber has long linear chains is arranged in spiral form?
cotton
naturally color grown cotton
cultivated for thousands of years, regained importance in the beginning of the 1990's in regards to minimizing the environmental impact and sustainability concerns of conventional cotton. more than 10 color varieties are made but only brown and green color families are commercially available due to their better fiber quality. *color deepens with time instead of fading like most fabrics*
ramie is harvested by:
decortication. the bark and woody portion of the plant stem are separated from the fiber (83% cellulose) *requires a lot of hand labor didn't become important until less expensive production methods were created*.
specific gravity
density. affects fiber size; dense fabrics like rayon (1.48) will have a larger tex or denier number.
for apparel on a hot summer day, which would you prefer -- a fiber that absorbs perspiration quickly or one that wicks perspiration? explain your response
depends on preference and activity.
resistance to chemicals
different fibers react differently to chemicals, determines the appropriateness of care procedures and end uses for fibers as well as selection of appropriate dyes and finishes for fabrics and products.
to what fiber aspects are the difference in properties among the natural protein fibers attributed?
different physical and molecular structures, have different proteins such as wool is keratin but silk is fibroin. types and percentages of amino acids differ in-between wool and silk (more in wool and less in silk.. aka wool is bulkier and silk is thinner). wool is resilience and contains sulfur where silk does not. wool is more prone to insect damage.
elongation
durability properties; refers to the degree to which a fiber may be stretched without breaking. (i.e. cotton t-shirt being stretched over knees to make bigger but not broken)
tenacity or tensile strength
durability properties; the ability of a textile to withstand a pulling force. - measured by securing both ends of the fiber in clamps and measuring the force needed to break or rupture the fiber.
abrasion resistance
durability properties; the ability of a textile to withstand the rubbing it gets during use -abrasion- occurs when textile is flat like carpet -edge abrasion- pant hem rubs on sidewalk; folded -flex abrasion- moving and bending like shoelaces
cohesiveness
durability properties; the ability of fibers to cling together during spinning, can be a factor of durability
flexibility
durability properties; the ability to bend repeatedly without breaking - an important property related to abrasion resistance -silk and wool have superior flexibility -glass does not obviously! :) -in relation to abrasion
strength
durability properties; the ability to resist stress
pilling
durability properties; the formation of balls of fiber on the fabric surface. -most often occurs when fibers of differing abrasions (i.e. polyester and cotton) are combined into one fabric. -unattractive and uncomfortable -short pieces of the less-resistant cotton break off and become entangled with the more abrasion-resistant polyester.
cradle to cradle
environmentally intelligent design framework that examines the overall impact of the production, use, care, disposal, and recycle potential of products, including textiles, from economic, industrial, and social perspectives.
filament yarn fabrics
ex: silk crepe de chine, acetate taffeta, polyester satin, and polyester gabardine.
microscopy
examine lengthwise (longitudinal) and crosswise (cross section); take photomicrographs
fiber parts (natural)
except for silk, the natural fibers have three distinct parts: - an outer covering called a cuticle or skin - an inner area - a center core that may be hollow
environmental factors of performance
extremely warm or extremely cold temperatures, intense light, and frequent or prolonged wetting
True or false: Cotton is stronger than flax.
false
consider the working life of a fast-food worker, a construction worker, and a physician. identify textiles that these individuals might interest with in the course of their day.
fast food wrappers, belts, duct tape backing, hoses, surgical masks, gloves, etc.
what is the only fiber that you could pull off a single strand of that is not a yarn?
felt
bamboo
fiber made from regenerated bamboo pulp
bast fiber
fiber removed from the stem of a plant; longer and stronger than seed fibers. flax, ramie, hemp, kenaf, hibiscus, nettle, bamboo, jute
electrical conductivity
fibers w/ good absorbency also have this; ability to transfer electrical charges
dyeability
fibers with good absorbency also have this; fibers that are receptive to coloration by dyes; fibers that absorb water quickly also have a good dye affinity
factor in determining quality of fiber
fineness -- fine fiber is better quality
longer cotton fibers are ____ and make _____ yarns.
finer and stronger
Rayon ("artificial silk" until 1924)
first fiber to be manufactured; acetate and nylon also introduced in silklike fabrics
visual inspection
first step in fiber identification; helpful 1. length of fiber 2. luster or lack of luster 3. body, texture, hand
Irish linen always refers to fabrics made from
flax
Flax fibers are ___ when dew retted and more ____ when water retted.
grayish, yellowish
hydrophobic fibers
have little or no absorbency; tend to be *oleophilic* meaning they have a strong affinity of attraction for oil.
generic group
have similar chemical compositions that differs from those in another group. (chemical compositions determine fiber properties and thus end use)
for apparel on a cold, windy day, which would you prefer -- a fiber with good heat retention or a fiber with good heat transference? explain your response,
heat retention because textiles that are heavy in heat retention have a better ability to hold heat.
Among 19 staple lengths, long staple fibers are ____ quality. Examples are pima, Egyptian, supima, and sea island.
higher
Flax has a ____ ____ ____ ____than cotton, which makes it stronger than cotton.
higher oriented molecular arrangement
Naturally creamy white cotton is ____ ____ because it can be dyed or printer to meet fashion consumer needs.
highly desirable
flammability
how a fabric reacts to ignition sources and how it burns. -fabrics that are highly flammable are banned from interstate commerce in the US and many other countries because of the safety risk they pose
all cellulosic fibers contain:
hydrogen, oxygen, and carbon
solubility test
identify the manufactured fibers by generic class and confirm identification of natural fibers.
cross-sectional shape
impacts luster, bulk, body, texture and hand. -round -dog-bone -triangular -lobal -multisided -hollow *natural fiber cross-section can not be controlled, but performance properties of cross-section can be controlled*
the polymers in manufactured fibers are:
in a random, unoriented state immediately after production (aka amorphous... until stretching/drawing)
technical or industrial textiles
include a broad range of materials that are widely used in special applications of technical nature and that are generally not considered apparel or furnishings (tire cords, seat upholstery, seat belts, toothbrushes, bandages, etc.)
comfort and safety properties
include absorbency, heat retention, density, and elongation.
fiber properties affected by crystallinity and orientation
include: strength, elongation, moisture absorption, abrasion resistance, and dyeability
textile serviceability
includes: the concepts of aesthetics, durability, comfort, safety, appearance retention, care, environmental concerns, sustainability, and cost.
type of yarn and structure
influence hand and performance
diameter
influences a fabric's performance and hand or how it feels. large fibers: -crisp, rough, and stiff -resist crushing-a property that is important in products such as carpets (LOFT) -used to produce more durable products such as book bags and luggage fine fibers: -soft and pliable -used to produce softer and more comfortable products such as apparel and bed linens. -drape more easily and are more comfy next to the skin
nodes
irregular crosswise markings, can look slightly swollen and resemble stalk of bamboo.
cost
is impacted by how a fiber is produced, the number and type of modifications present and how the fiber is marketed. -actual costs are related to supply and demand for the fiber as well as cost of raw materials to grow or produce it. (typically a smaller cost than consumer price) -non-wovens tend to be less expensive
fiber parts (manufactured)
less complex -- skin and a core
mature cotton fibers are...
longer and thinner
filament fiber
longer fiber, measured in miles or kilometers. filament yarn; may be monofilament or multifilament -monofilament or multifilament) -smooth (silklike fabrics) or bulked (crimped in some way-used in cotton or wool)
flax has a ________ more than cotton.
longer polymer (higher degree of polymerization), finer, greater orientation and crystallinity
main disadvantages to flax
low resiliency, lack of elasticity
manufactured fibers can be...
made uniform in diameter or can be thick and thin at regular intervals throughout their length
luster or lack of luster
manufactured fiber luster may range from harsh and shiny to dull and matte
flax cross section has
many sides or polygonal with rounded edges.
information about a fabric
may be limited to its style number as determined by the producer, width, fiber content, weight or additional information related to yarn size, yarn spinning method, weave structure, and finishes.
standard test methods
methods taken in assessing performance so that everyone will follow the same procedure and use identical equipment in the process
amorphous
molecular chains that are arranged in a random or disorganized way within the fiber. (wool, cotton, rayon)
hydrogen bonds and Van der Waals forces
molecular chains that are held close to one another by intermolecular forces, the closer the chains are to each other, the stronger their bonds. -occur in the crystalline areas and help make crystalline polymers stronger than amorphous polymers
process of making a fabric
molecule --> polymer --> fiber --> yarn --> fabric --> finishes
explain why most natural fibers are available as staple only, but most manufactured and synthetic fibers are available in either staple or filament form.
natural fibers are not long enough to be in filament form except silk because filament is measured in kilometers and miles.
fiber identification
natural fibers- microscope manufactured-solubility/ burn tests and spectroscopic analyses
explain why most cotton that is produced is white or off-white color. what are the advantages or disadvantages of white versus naturally colored cotton?
naturally creamy white is highly desirable because it can be dyed or printed to meet fashion and consumer needs. the disadvantages are that these fibers may yellow with age.
Flax fibers can be identified microscopically by crosswise markings called____ or ____ which contribute to their flexibility
nodes, joints
locate three different textile products that utilize the same fiber, such as nylon
nylon stockings, cookware, plastic fastners
kapok (seed fiber)
obtained from:the seed of the Java Kapok (silk cotton) tree or the Indian Kapok tree. fiber is: lightweight, soft, hollow, and very buoyant Uses: primarily fiberfill bc its difficult to spin into yarns
hydrogen bonding and the van der waals bonding forces
occur in the crystalline areas and help making crystalline polymers stronger than amorphous polymers.
inherent crimp
occurs in wool; exists in an undeveloped state in bicomponent manufactured fibers in which it is developed in the fabric or the garment (with heat or moisture during finishing.
using the serviceability concepts, debate the advantages and disadvantages from a consumer's perspective of an organic cotton t-shirt versus a polyester t-shirt made from recycled beverage bottles
organic cotton: advantages - environmental concerns, comfort, disadvantages- cost, environmental process. (page 73), care, durability polyester recycled: advantages - environmental concerns, care, air pollution is reduced up to 85%, care, appearance retention disadvantages- comfort, chemical process,
transitional cotton
organically farm techniques used, but not considered organic because 3 year process is not met
organic cotton
organically farm techniques used, must go through 3 year farming process to be considered organic
the strongest molecular chain is..
oriented, due to fibers being parallel to each other and the longitudinal axis of the fiber. makes it less flexible = stronger
Fiber properties are determined by:
physical structure, chemical composition, and molecular arrangement
the manufactured fibers most commonly used in contemporary apparel and fabrics for interiors include:
polyester, nylon, olefin, acrylic, rayon, lyocell, and acetate.
describe polymerization and the possible arrangements of molecules within fibers. list four aspects of performance that might be expected for each combo you describe.
polymerization: the gathering of smaller molecules to make a bigger molecule. 1. amorphous - absorbant, flexibilité, dyeability. easily elongated. relatively weak (cotton, wool, rayon) (1. poor elasticity, 2. good absorbency 3. dye ability 4. flexibility) 2. crystalline - stronger, forces of traction together, do not stretch much but do recover from stretch quickly. parallel. not necessarily oriented. strong and stiff. (1. nonabsorbent 2. difficult to dye 3. strong 4. stiff) i.e. polyester, nylon, arid 3. orientation - parallel to each other. highly crystalline.
sustainability
practices and policies that reduce environmental pollution and do not exploit people or natural resources in meeting the lifestyle needs of the present without compromising the future
sustainability
practices and policies that reduce environmental pollution and do not exploit people or natural resources in meeting the lifestyle needs of the present without compromising the future.
lint
pressed into bales weighing 480 pounds each and sold to spinning mills or exported.
Flax is a ____ fiber as a result of its limited production and relatively high cost.
prestige
smooth filament yarns
produce fabric that is shiny, lustrous, smooth, and slick; no fiber ends seen on surface; fewer turns to unravel yarn; fiber ends where fabric is cut and fibers are as long as piece of fabric -fold and view on contrasting surface- edge looks sharper and crisper than that of a spun yarn fabrics (staple fibers) -textured or bulked- spun and filament aspects -cannot see filament tow -*IF A FILAMENT FIBER HAS BEEN TEXTURED OR BULKED* it will resemble spun yarns in that the fiber ends only occur where the fabric is cut and the yarns are as long as the piece of fabric but the hand is not smooth and slick; surface will not look as flat as a smooth filament yarn fabric.
filament tow
produced as a loose rope of several thousand fibers, is crimped or textured, and cut to staple length.
textile production has been linear
producing a textile product and delivering it to the consumer as quickly and inexpensively as possible; sustainability is adding another dimension to this process.
fibers influence
product aesthetics, durability, comfort, appearance retention, care, environmental impact, sustainability, and cost; must have sufficient strength, pliability, length, and cohesiveness
soft goods
products constructed of textiles and other flexible materials including apparel, interior textiles, and technical textiles
technical textiles
reduce environmental damage and protect buildings and pedestrians during demolition of buildings.
globalization
refers to companies purchasing from and/or selling to multiple sites int he world and applies to many industries including the textile complex. *requires use of advanced technologies to satisfy a wide variety of consumers and to coordinate the purchasing, manufacturing, and distribution to multiple locations worldwide* (includes offshore production)
quality
refers to the sum total of product characteristics such as appearance, end use, performance, material interactions within the product, consistency among identical products, and freedom from defects in construction or materials.
aesthetic properties
relate to the way sense such as touch and sight contribute to the perception of the textile. include: cover, translucence, luster, drape, texture, hand
leaf fibers
removed from the views or ribs of a leaf; pina, abaca, sisal, henequen.
aging resistance
resistance to deleterious changes over time; spandex and other elastic fibers have poor aging characteristics -- they become stiff, brittle, rigid; cotton can be stored for years without suffering significant damage
All bast fibers require a process of removing the fibers from the stem. The process starts with _____, which is the bacterial rotting of the stem.
retting
convolutions
ribbonlike twists along a cotton fiber; when the fibers mature and force the boll open, they dry out and the central canal collapses.
miscellaneous fibers
rush, sea grass, maize, palm fiber
tow
short flax fibers must be carded before dry spinning into yarns
staple fiber
shorter fiber, measured in feet, inches, centimeters. spun yarn -short fibers measured in inches or centimeters (less than 2 to 46 cm or 0.5 in-18 in) -produce spun yarn fabrics (cotton percale)
what is the only filament fiber that exists in nature?
silk; all other natural fibers are only measured in staple form.
when examining staple fibers
soft or matte luster and feel fuzzy, short fiber ends protrude above the surface when fabric is viewed closely; no fiber is as long as the yarn or piece of fabric fro which yarn was unraveled (short fibers pulled from yarn)
fibers for special and technical applications include
spandex, aramid, polybenzimidazole (PBI), and sulfar
spandex
stretchy fibers
nylon and polyester
strong and abrasion resistant fibers
high oriented and crystalline fibers are:
strong and stiff. they do not stretch much or easily but they recover from stretch quickly. they tend to be nonabsorbent and difficult to dye. highly oriented and crystalline fibers include polyester, nylon, and aramid.
consult figure 1.5 and explain the parts of the textile complex that would have been involved in producing and marketing a cotton/polyester blend dress shirt.
sunlight --> plants --> natural cellulosic fibers AND manufactured fibers--> yarn processing/yarn mill --> textile mills --> finishing and dyeing/printing --> product manufacturer --> wholesale and retail --> consumers.
what difference in performance might you expect from fibers used to produce a t-shirt, a carpet in a movie theatre, and an outdoor flag
t-shirt -- would be a circular or round fiber, comfort, flexibility carpet in a movie theatre - durable, outdoor flag -- chemical process/treatment (waterproof/weatherproof) hydrophobic, strength, durability, no elongation potential
pieces of the fabrics that you do see
textile --> fiber --> yarn --> fabric --> gray goods --> finish
confinement
that only one firm can use that color, pattern, or fabric. some large retailers or manufacturers control such a significant market share that fabric producers willingly modify their processes to meet the buyer's preferences.
wicking
the ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along its surface. -fibers that wick well are not very absorbent -moisture is transported along the surface rather than being absorbed into the fiber. -comfortable because the moisture is pulled away from the skin by wicking to the outer surface of the fabric where evaporation can occur.
heat/thermal retention
the ability of a textile to hold heat. (wool or acrylic) (table 3.3)
allergic potential
the ability to cause physical reactions such as skin redness resulting from exposure to the fiber. -fibers used in finishing and dyeing can also cause allergic reactions in some individuals irritation is something different: prickle caused by wool fibers.
heat conductivity
the ability to transfer heat through a fabric. opposite of heat retention
light or sunlight resistance
the ability to withstand degradation from natural or artificial light. exposure to light may damage fibers. the energy in light, especially in the ultraviolet region of the spectrum, causes irreversible damage to the chemical structure of the fiber. -acrylic has high resistance -tenacity measured before and after exposure
cost
the amount paid to acquire, use, maintain and dispose of a product. additional factors that should be considered include how much it will cost to care for this product during its lifetime and the product's inherent attributes (woven fabric- 21% fibers, 20% yarn production, 29% weaving, 14% finishing, 16% dyeing or printing)
end use
the application or function for which a textile is designed or for which it is ultimately used.
hydrogen bonding
the attraction of positive hydrogen atoms of one chain to the negative oxygen or nitrogen atoms of an adjacent chain
fabric crimp
the bends caused by distortion of yarns due to weaving and knitting a fabric. (crimp easily seen in the yarn and in the fibers removed from the yarn resembling the structure of the fabric)
lumen
the central canal, through which nourishment travels during fiber development
define product development and describe how it determines the products available in the marketplace
the design and engineering of a product so that is has the desired serviceability characteristics, appeals to the target market, can be made within an acceptable time frame for a reasonable cost and can be sold at a profit. (encompasses a range of activities and differs widely by companies and segments of the global textile complex)
product development
the design and engineering of a product so that is has the desired serviceability characteristics, appeals to the target market, can be made within an acceptable time frame for a reasonable cost and can be sold at a profit. (encompasses a range of activities and differs widely by companies and segments of the global textile complex)
many textiles were not possible to be made before...
the development of manufactured fibers
breaking tenacity for fiber
the force (either in grams per denier or tex) required to break the fiber. -may differ when wet than when dry.
environmental concerns
the impact that the production, use, care, or disposal of a textile has on the environment
textile complex
the international mix of related industries that provide soft goods for the world's population; one of the world's largest industries and has a significant impact on world economy. imports and exports are not specifically identified since they can enter or exit the complex at any stage
performance
the manner in which a textile, textile component, or textile product responds to use or how it responds when exposed to some mechanical or environmental factor that might adversely affect it.
durability
the manner in which the product withstands use, that is, the length of time the product is considered suitable of the use for which it was purchased
serviceability
the measure of a textile product's ability to meet consumers' needs. includes aesthetics, durability, comfort, appearance retention, care, and cost. environmental concerns and sustainability are additional factors of importance in product development.
degree of polymerization
the number of molecules connected in a chain;long chains = high degree of polymerization and fiber strength (olefin fibers); rayon has lower strength.
explain what the numbers represent in a fiber property summary list and how that information describes fiber performance. for each summary, explain if a higher value might be more or less desirable for a textile product.
the numbers in the parenthesis are in grams per denier for staple fibers with unmodified cross sections, the first number is for dry fibers and the second number is for wet fibers. if only one number there is no difference in performance between wet and dry. (i.e. silk is absorbant, not very dense, not elongation heavy, elastic.)
surface contour
the outer surface of the fiber along it's length (smooth, serrated, striated, or rough) affects luster, hand, texture, and apparent soiling of fabric.
the shape of manufactured fibers is controlled by:
the shape of the spinnerette opening and the spinning method; size, shape, luster, length, and other properties can be modified by changes in the production process.
care
the treatment required to maintain a textile product's original appearance and cleanliness
fiber crimp
the waves, bends, twists, coils, and curls along the length of the fiber; INCREASES cohesiveness, resiliency, resistance to abrasion, stretch, bulk, and warmth. -increases absorbency and skin-contact comfort but reduces luster. -lots of crimp (wool) = warmer -traps air within fabric and next to skin
comfort
the way textiles affect heat, air, and moisture transfer, and the way the body interacts with a textile product
environmental concerns
the way the production, use, care, and disposal of a fiber or textile product affects the environment -natural fiber has an impact on soil conservation, use of agricultural chemicals, disposal of animal waste, water demands, cleaning requirements, processing. -natural fibers can't be disposed for biodegradation
life cycle impact
the way the production, use, care, and disposal of a product affects the environment and the people involved with the product
denier
the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn
denier
the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn; fineness or coarseness of fiber; related to end use -smaller number describes fine fiber -larger number describes coarse fiber
tex
the weight of grams of 1,000 meters of fiber or yarn. staple fiber is sold by denier and fiber length. filament fiber is sold by the denier or the yarn or tow
cotton gin
the whirling saws pick up the fiber and carry it to a knifelike comb which blocks the seeds and permits the fiber to be carried through
fibers differ in:
their physical structure, chemical composition, and molecular arrangement. these differences are used to distinguish among fibers by generic names. these differences influence the serviceability of that product
body, texture, hand
these factors indicate whether the fiber is soft to hard, rough to smooth, warm to cool, stiff to flexible and relate to fiber size, surface contour, stiffness or ridgity and cross-sectional shape
explain the properties that are common to all cellulosic fibers
they all contain carbon, hydrogen and oxygen and they're basic monomer is glucose. 1. good absorbency 2. good conductor of heat 3. ability to withstand high temperature 4. low resiliency 5. low loft 6. good conductor 7. heavy fibers 8. harmed by mineral acids, minimal damage by organic acids 9. attacked by mildew 10. resistant to moths, but eaten by crickets and silverfish 11. flammable 12. moderate resistance to sunlight
how do textiles contribute to individual, community, and societal way of life?
they surround us from life to death. they provide protection and enhancement in
Until the first manufactured fiber was produced commercially in 1885:
they were produced by plants and animals
bast fibers have a variation of...
thick and thin appearance when processed into yarns and fabrics
natural fibers
those that are in fiber form as they grow or develop and come from animal, plant, or mineral sources.
producing bast fiber is
time consuming and requires specialized machinery --- cottonizing is meant to speed up the process.
dyeing and finishing
to make fabrics more attractive with better consumer performance have been modified for use with manufactured fibers
molecular chain
too small to be seen, even with an optical microscope; also described by molecular weight, a factor in properties such as fiber strength and extensibility; contain different configurations within fibers.
care
treatments required to maintain the new look of a textile product during use, cleaning, or storage.
important factors to successful product development include
understanding processes, people, and things including product innovation and management consumers, and textile materials.
length of fiber
untwist the yarn to determine fiber length. (any fiber can be staple length but not all can be filament)
burn test
used to identify a fiber's general chemical composition (i.e. mineral, synthetic, protein, and cellulosic) -blends can not be identified in a burn test
weaving and knitting
used to make fabrics
spinning
used to produce yarns; also the term used to describe extruding manufactured fibers.
wool
warm and bulky fibers
cotton is ideal use for:
warm weather apparel, activewear, work clothes, upholstery, draperies, area rugs, towels, and bedding.
the van der waals bonding forces
weak bonds between atoms that are physically close together.
crystalline
when molecular chains are organized parallel to each other. *if they are also going in the same lengthwise axis then they are also considered oriented. but if they are not, they they are just considered crystalline*
polymerization
when small molecules -- monomers -- are joined together to form a long chain, or *polymer* - the length of a polymer varies just as the length of the fiber varies.
race to the bottom
where companies and countries tried to compete with each other by cutting wages and living standards for workers and the production of goods is moved to the places that have the lowest wages and production costs.
moisture regain
where the moisture in the material is expressed as a percentage of the weight of the moisture-free material
amorphous fibers include
wool, cotton, and rayon are relatively weak and easily elongated. these fibers have poor elasticity and good moisture absorbency, dye ability, and flexibility
