Unit 6: Ocean Physics
diurnal tides(what occurs & where)
1 high and low tide(Gulf of Mexico)
semidiurnal tides
2 "equal" high & low(East Coast)
mixed tides
2 unequal highs & lows per day(west/pacific coast)
What is heat capacity?
Ability to resist heating or cooling
Importance of Peru Current
Brings nutrient rich water along the coast
What affects surface currents?
Coriolis effect, landmasses, & Earth's rotation
What causes the Coriolis effect?
Earth's rotation
What are gyres?
Large, circular oceanic currents.
Where do tsunamis typically occur?
Pacific ocean and Indonesia
How do salinity and temperature affect water density?
Salty and cold water sinks and vise versa
Distinguish between spring and neap tides.
Spring tides are
What is the main cause of tides?
The gravitational pull of the moon
How do ocean currents affect coastal climates?
Warm currents create warmer climate, cold currents create a cooler climate
What are the causes of tsunamis?
active submarine earthquakes
What are the mathematical formulas that describe orbital wave characteristics?
atomic orbital
How do landmasses affect surface currents?
can deflect them from their original path
What causes deep water currents?
caused by differences in temperature and salinity(density)
Which way do surface currents rotate in the Northern Hemisphere?
clockwise
Which way do surface currents rotate in the Southern Hemisphere?
counterclockwise
Distinguish between deep water waves and shallow water waves.
deep water waves are further in the ocean while shallow water waves are closer
Describe what happens when a wave approaches the shore.
forms larger waves which contribute to more energy
what causes surface currents?
global winds
Explain the movement of water in a wave
in a circular motion however the horizontal movements are energy
What is the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, what is the primary kind of garbage, and what effects does it have on organisms?
micro plastics, the organisms ingest and can affect their health
deep water waves
no interference with ocean bottom(wind generated)
What other factors affect tides?
position of Earth and sun; shape of the shoreline
What are the 3 types of breakers?
surging, plunging, and spilling
Tidal bores
the wall of water that moves up to a certain low lying river due to an incoming tidal wave
Why are currents important?
they influence global weather and climate patterns
shallow water waves
touch the sea floor and infer with waves orbital motion(controlled by water depth)
The gulf stream carries_________water and wind and the California currents carries_______water and wind.
warm, cool
