chapter 14
Shallow water waves form when the water depth is:
1/2 the wave's wavelength
Waves break when the water depth reaches:
1/20 the wave's wavelength
Most corals are found between _____ and _____ degrees latitude:
30 N, 30 S
The average salinity of seawater (‰) is:
35%
How quickly do most beaches along the East Coast repair themselves after a storm event?
6-8 weeks
Which of the following are NOT one of the major types of reefs?
CAY
The single most abundant dissolved ion in seawater is
CHLORINE
Gyres form because of:
Coriolis force
Which of the following factors are NOT necessary for coral reef formation?
Deep water
Deep ocean (Thermohaline) currents are driven primarily by:
Differences in seawater density
Which of the following monthly tidal patterns only has one high tide and one low tide per day?
Diurnal
Which of the following features are NOT part of every beach?
Dunes
Each day, the tides occur 40 minutes later than the day before.
FALSE
Longshore transport occurs when waves break parallel to the shoreline.
FALSE
Offshore transport is more likely to occur in the summer.
FALSE
Seawater density is primarily controlled by the salinity of the water.
FALSE
The ocean waters at the equator have a higher than average salinity.
FALSE
The tidal bore forms when the ebb tides flow out of tidal inlets.
FALSE
Waves are the movement of water across the ocean.
FALSE (They are the movement of energy through the ocean.)
Barriers tend to form along coasts because of this phenomenon:
Longshore transport
These intertidal features are only found in the tropics.
Mangroves
The permil symbol (‰) means:
Parts per thousand
Which of the following factors do NOT play a role in the size of the tidal range along a coast?
Rock type
What is the correct chronological order of formation for these rocky coastal features?
Sea cave, sea arch, sea stack
Surface ocean currents are driven by:
THE WIND
80% of the oceans' waters are cold and dense.
TRUE
Deltaic plains are places with a constant, high risk for flooding.
TRUE
During the summer months, a beach will commonly have a wide, well-developed berm made of fine-grained sands.
TRUE
Most of the world's coastlines are rocky.
TRUE
Onshore transport moves sand from the offshore bar to the beach
TRUE
Pocket beaches form when wave energy is low.
TRUE
Spring tides occur when the Earth, Moon and Sun are all aligned in a straight line.
TRUE
The Moon has more influence over the tides than the Sun.
TRUE
The pycnocline is absent in the Arctic.
TRUE
Wave refraction causes wave energy to be focused towards the headlands.
TRUE
Which of the following factors do NOT play a role in the size of a wave?
The temperature of the water
What does NOT happen when a wave reaches shallow water?
The wave period decreases
Which of the following statements about deltas is NOT true?
They only form in the ocean
This erosional coastal landform is ONLY found along tectonically-active coasts:
Wave-cut terrace
The net transport of sand along a beach is called:
longshore transport
Most corals get their energy from these symbiotes:
zooxanthellae
