chapter 14

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Shallow water waves form when the water depth is:

1/2 the wave's wavelength

Waves break when the water depth reaches:

1/20 the wave's wavelength

Most corals are found between _____ and _____ degrees latitude:

30 N, 30 S

The average salinity of seawater (‰) is:

35%

How quickly do most beaches along the East Coast repair themselves after a storm event?

6-8 weeks

Which of the following are NOT one of the major types of reefs?

CAY

The single most abundant dissolved ion in seawater is

CHLORINE

Gyres form because of:

Coriolis force

Which of the following factors are NOT necessary for coral reef formation?

Deep water

Deep ocean (Thermohaline) currents are driven primarily by:

Differences in seawater density

Which of the following monthly tidal patterns only has one high tide and one low tide per day?

Diurnal

Which of the following features are NOT part of every beach?

Dunes

Each day, the tides occur 40 minutes later than the day before.

FALSE

Longshore transport occurs when waves break parallel to the shoreline.

FALSE

Offshore transport is more likely to occur in the summer.

FALSE

Seawater density is primarily controlled by the salinity of the water.

FALSE

The ocean waters at the equator have a higher than average salinity.

FALSE

The tidal bore forms when the ebb tides flow out of tidal inlets.

FALSE

Waves are the movement of water across the ocean.

FALSE (They are the movement of energy through the ocean.)

Barriers tend to form along coasts because of this phenomenon:

Longshore transport

These intertidal features are only found in the tropics.

Mangroves

The permil symbol (‰) means:

Parts per thousand

Which of the following factors do NOT play a role in the size of the tidal range along a coast?

Rock type

What is the correct chronological order of formation for these rocky coastal features?

Sea cave, sea arch, sea stack

Surface ocean currents are driven by:

THE WIND

80% of the oceans' waters are cold and dense.

TRUE

Deltaic plains are places with a constant, high risk for flooding.

TRUE

During the summer months, a beach will commonly have a wide, well-developed berm made of fine-grained sands.

TRUE

Most of the world's coastlines are rocky.

TRUE

Onshore transport moves sand from the offshore bar to the beach

TRUE

Pocket beaches form when wave energy is low.

TRUE

Spring tides occur when the Earth, Moon and Sun are all aligned in a straight line.

TRUE

The Moon has more influence over the tides than the Sun.

TRUE

The pycnocline is absent in the Arctic.

TRUE

Wave refraction causes wave energy to be focused towards the headlands.

TRUE

Which of the following factors do NOT play a role in the size of a wave?

The temperature of the water

What does NOT happen when a wave reaches shallow water?

The wave period decreases

Which of the following statements about deltas is NOT true?

They only form in the ocean

This erosional coastal landform is ONLY found along tectonically-active coasts:

Wave-cut terrace

The net transport of sand along a beach is called:

longshore transport

Most corals get their energy from these symbiotes:

zooxanthellae


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