Chapter 16
- alternate for mercerization for cellulosic fabric - lower cost and less polluting - less effective for dyeing, but fewer problems with durable press finishes
Ammoniating Finish
- uses weak ammonia solution at high temperature - passed through hot water, stretched and dried in hot air
Ammoniating Finish
use cellulose enzyme to remove surface fuzz
Bio-Polishing
cleans and produces uniformly white goods
Bleaching
- gives smooth, pressed finish to fabric - passes between series of rollers
Calendaring
removes plant matter, prepares for dyeing for more level or uniform color
Carbonizing
- high surface polish; "wet look" - waxes (rayon, natural) - thermoplastic (resins) - water repellency (glazing, fusing)
Cire'ing
warp sizing, dirt, oil or other soil removed
Cleaning
rarely leaves easily visible marks
Clip Tentering
- adding color (dyeing or printing) - properly prepared goods critical to quality of dye or print finishes
Coloration
less labor, high quality finished goods
Computer Control
after finishing
Converted or Finished Goods
"setting" of wool fabrics
Crabbing
gives smooth, wrinkle-free finish to wool fabrics
Decating
- sizing on warp removed by physical agitation or chemical (enzyme or acid) - process depends on fiber and sizing - environmental impact/sustainability - water pollution, bio or enzyme resizing saves water, energy and time, but more expensive
Desizing
for life of product, diminishes with time
Durable Finish
- sustainable; uses less water; function at lower temperature - requires less waste water treatment - produces fabric with better hand and less damage
Enzyme Finishes
alternates the use of synthetic and inorganic chemicals
Enzyme Finishes
fabric woven, knit, or other process
Fabrication
fibers processes separately
Fiber Processing
anything done to fiber, yarn, or fabric either before or after fabrication to change the appearance, hand, and performance of the fabric
Finish
can be permanent, durable, temporary, visible, or invisible
Finishes
- foam carries finishing agent - less water - less uniform than water finishes - less energy to move and dry fabrics, quicker process
Foam Finishing
- friction calendar - starch or resin - highly glazed, polished surface
Glazing
fabrics after fabrication, but before finishing
Gray, Grey, or Greige Goods
- physical form (length & width) of fabric during finishing - run - quantity of fabric receiving same processing at same time - open width or tubular/rope form continuous or batch process
Handling
- heated under tension to set resin finishes or thermoplastic fibers - tenter frame and passed through oven - set- yarn twist, weave crimp, and wrinkle resistance
Heat Setting
examining fabric to ensure specified level of quality
Inspecting
yarn dyed fabrics after fabrication, but before finishing
Loom State
- without tension for soft finish - dried on loop dryer without tension - towels and knits
Loop Drying
- treat with strong alkali (sodium hydroxide) - improves dye affinity of cotton and HWM rayon
Mercerization
finished by mill
Mill-Finished Goods
fluorescent compounds mask yellow - NOT bleaches
Optical Brighteners
for life of product
Permanent Finish
almost always leaves telltale holes along the edge
Pin Tentering
new way of applying thin, inexpensive, functional coatings to fabric
Plasma Technology
steaming wool fabrics
Pressing
flaws repaired when possible
Repairing
durable
Resin
- inspecting - repairing
Reworking
reduces number by combining and reducing finishing steps
Rinsing
1. Crabbing 2. Decating 3. Carbonizing 4. Pressing
Routine Finishing - Wool
described for all cotton or cotton/polyester suiting weight; but similar for most fabrics
Routine Finishing Steps
- more rigorous process than cleaning - removes soil and foreign matter (natural waxes & gums) before dyeing and special finishing - gum from silk (degumming) - wax from cotton - Bio-polishing - lanolin from wool
Scouring
burn off fiber ends to minimize pilling; smoother fabric surface
Singeing
- fabric dipped at low tension into caustic soda solution; crimp increased; rounder fiber - improves absorbency and dye-ability
Slack Mercerization
warp yarns coated with mixture of natural and synthetic resins (sizing, starch, gum, lubricant, or preservative) to increase abrasion resistance
Slashing or Sizing
- uses solvent, less common - to improve quality
Solvent Finishing
combines steps to decrease costs and environmental impact
Solvent Finishing
temporary
Starch
until conclusion of first cleaning cycle; renewable - can be replaced
Temporary Finish
- held under tension; high concentration of sodium hydroxide - increase strength, luster, and absorbency
Tension Mercerization
- straightens and dries fabric; stiff texture - held between pins or clips, heated in oven
Tentering
- hot air (more expensive) - holds fabric width, dries; impact on fabric grain; off-grain, skew, bow - smooth, wrinkle-free
Tentering Machine
- standard in industry; uses tremendous amounts of water - water requirements: clean, neutral pH, free of inorganic contaminants - potential for water pollution high, unless treated before discharge into public water systems - water quality regulated in many parts of the world
Water-Bath Finishing
slashing or sizing
Yarn Preparation
fibers aligned, blended, twisted
Yarn Processing