Chapter 16

- alternate for mercerization for cellulosic fabric - lower cost and less polluting - less effective for dyeing, but fewer problems with durable press finishes

Ammoniating Finish

- uses weak ammonia solution at high temperature - passed through hot water, stretched and dried in hot air

Ammoniating Finish

use cellulose enzyme to remove surface fuzz

Bio-Polishing

cleans and produces uniformly white goods

Bleaching

- gives smooth, pressed finish to fabric - passes between series of rollers

Calendaring

removes plant matter, prepares for dyeing for more level or uniform color

Carbonizing

- high surface polish; "wet look" - waxes (rayon, natural) - thermoplastic (resins) - water repellency (glazing, fusing)

Cire'ing

warp sizing, dirt, oil or other soil removed

Cleaning

rarely leaves easily visible marks

Clip Tentering

- adding color (dyeing or printing) - properly prepared goods critical to quality of dye or print finishes

Coloration

less labor, high quality finished goods

Computer Control

after finishing

Converted or Finished Goods

"setting" of wool fabrics

Crabbing

gives smooth, wrinkle-free finish to wool fabrics

Decating

- sizing on warp removed by physical agitation or chemical (enzyme or acid) - process depends on fiber and sizing - environmental impact/sustainability - water pollution, bio or enzyme resizing saves water, energy and time, but more expensive

Desizing

for life of product, diminishes with time

Durable Finish

- sustainable; uses less water; function at lower temperature - requires less waste water treatment - produces fabric with better hand and less damage

Enzyme Finishes

alternates the use of synthetic and inorganic chemicals

Enzyme Finishes

fabric woven, knit, or other process

Fabrication

fibers processes separately

Fiber Processing

anything done to fiber, yarn, or fabric either before or after fabrication to change the appearance, hand, and performance of the fabric

Finish

can be permanent, durable, temporary, visible, or invisible

Finishes

- foam carries finishing agent - less water - less uniform than water finishes - less energy to move and dry fabrics, quicker process

Foam Finishing

- friction calendar - starch or resin - highly glazed, polished surface

Glazing

fabrics after fabrication, but before finishing

Gray, Grey, or Greige Goods

- physical form (length & width) of fabric during finishing - run - quantity of fabric receiving same processing at same time - open width or tubular/rope form continuous or batch process

Handling

- heated under tension to set resin finishes or thermoplastic fibers - tenter frame and passed through oven - set- yarn twist, weave crimp, and wrinkle resistance

Heat Setting

examining fabric to ensure specified level of quality

Inspecting

yarn dyed fabrics after fabrication, but before finishing

Loom State

- without tension for soft finish - dried on loop dryer without tension - towels and knits

Loop Drying

- treat with strong alkali (sodium hydroxide) - improves dye affinity of cotton and HWM rayon

Mercerization

finished by mill

Mill-Finished Goods

fluorescent compounds mask yellow - NOT bleaches

Optical Brighteners

for life of product

Permanent Finish

almost always leaves telltale holes along the edge

Pin Tentering

new way of applying thin, inexpensive, functional coatings to fabric

Plasma Technology

steaming wool fabrics

Pressing

flaws repaired when possible

Repairing

durable

Resin

- inspecting - repairing

Reworking

reduces number by combining and reducing finishing steps

Rinsing

1. Crabbing 2. Decating 3. Carbonizing 4. Pressing

Routine Finishing - Wool

described for all cotton or cotton/polyester suiting weight; but similar for most fabrics

Routine Finishing Steps

- more rigorous process than cleaning - removes soil and foreign matter (natural waxes & gums) before dyeing and special finishing - gum from silk (degumming) - wax from cotton - Bio-polishing - lanolin from wool

Scouring

burn off fiber ends to minimize pilling; smoother fabric surface

Singeing

- fabric dipped at low tension into caustic soda solution; crimp increased; rounder fiber - improves absorbency and dye-ability

Slack Mercerization

warp yarns coated with mixture of natural and synthetic resins (sizing, starch, gum, lubricant, or preservative) to increase abrasion resistance

Slashing or Sizing

- uses solvent, less common - to improve quality

Solvent Finishing

combines steps to decrease costs and environmental impact

Solvent Finishing

temporary

Starch

until conclusion of first cleaning cycle; renewable - can be replaced

Temporary Finish

- held under tension; high concentration of sodium hydroxide - increase strength, luster, and absorbency

Tension Mercerization

- straightens and dries fabric; stiff texture - held between pins or clips, heated in oven

Tentering

- hot air (more expensive) - holds fabric width, dries; impact on fabric grain; off-grain, skew, bow - smooth, wrinkle-free

Tentering Machine

- standard in industry; uses tremendous amounts of water - water requirements: clean, neutral pH, free of inorganic contaminants - potential for water pollution high, unless treated before discharge into public water systems - water quality regulated in many parts of the world

Water-Bath Finishing

slashing or sizing

Yarn Preparation

fibers aligned, blended, twisted

Yarn Processing