DES 143 midterm
Describe how each of the following affected or was interpreted in apparel styles during the 18th century. a. Rococo art movement b. Anglomania c. Marie Antoinette d. Madame de Pompadour e. international trade f. Macaroni Club members
a) Rococo art movement - The light and airy Rococo styles of art and architecture, which developed as a reaction to the heavy and dark themes of the Baroque style, influenced dress. Rococo-style fashion was light, airy, and featured soft pastel colors with light, ornate decoration. This Rococo style was considered feminine and flippant, and emphasized the easygoing, "whatever" lifestyle the upper classes has at this time. b) In women's clothes, Anglomania (a French fad for things English) became evident in a preference for simpler styles, English riding habits, and for coat-dresses derived from English men's riding coats (these were called redingotes). Frenchmen copied Englishman's tailoring, and in everyday life, wore simpler, undecorated suits → "daytime dress." c) Marie Antoinette - She dressed in the most exaggerated fashions possible (high wigs, wide panniers). She had her own fashion stylist known as Rose Bertan, who's credited with being the first name fashion designer. Exaggerated and extravagant dress → called for more consumption of textiles, accessories → conspicuous consumption. d) Madame de Pompadour - She epitomized french fashion and style, always wearing the robe a la francaise (she was the mistress of Louis the 15th, the King of France). She didn't have a large hairstyle, but lightly powdered her hair. Most of her dresses, which were very feminine, incorporated eschelles (ladder-like lacing of ribbons) over the stays or the stomacher. She hosted a lot of salons, which were important for disseminating popular styles of dress to the upper classes, artisans, and intelligentsia. e) International trade - Anglomania (French obsession for English clothing styles) resulted in less frilly and extravagant outfits for Frenchmen, and the emergence of more practical "day dress" (although court dress remained as extravagant as ever).. International trade brought Indian cotton, chintzes, and muslin to France, and Asian designs in woven brocades and damasks. f) Macaroni Club members adopted French and Italian-inspired fashions. They were noted for their interest in brightly-colored silks, laced-trimmed coats in the latest silhouettes, and giant wigs. Generally, their waistcoats were significantly shorter and they breeches were tighter - they demanded a tight fit to their clothes. They were supposed to be setting the tastes in fine arts, food, and fashion.
Name four reasons why people wear clothes.
Decoration (example: rosettes on the front of shoes) Designation of gender (example: women only wore stays) Designation of status (example: blackwork embroidery or lace decoration) Political rank (example: togas with purple clavi were for senators only)
Trace the design of armor during the Middle Ages.
Bayeux Tapestry (1064)-tunic and braies with chainmail and cyclas; Knighthood(12th century)-continuation of tunic, braies, chainmail with wimple (covering of neck) and heraldic devices such as parti-colored; 14th century-chainmail, helmet with visor, metal plates became full armor, pourpoint, cote-hardie, surcote (over chainmail), cut hair short with no beard The cote-hardie, pourpoint, surcote, parti-colored, heraldic devices, and cutting the hair short with no beards all came into fashion due to armor styles.
Name four different styles of men's breeches worn in the 16th or 17th centuries. Describe and draw a simple diagram of each style.
1500s - Slope gradually from a narrow waist ro fullness concentrated at mid-thigh, where they ended. Full trunk hose that resemble unpadded bloomers (hip hop shorts) - gallygaskins or slops. 1500s - Wide at the top and tapering to the knee (look like ovals) - venetians. From Venice. 1500s - Extensions from the end of the trunk hose to the knees or slightly below that (look like inverted cones). Either made in the same color or a contrasting color to the trunk hose - canions. 1600 - Breeches that were actually a divided skirt, that was cut so full that it gave off the appearance of a short skirt - petticoat breeches/rhinegraves.
Similarities and differences between Greek, Etruscan, and Roman costume forms.
All of these cultures wore some draped garments Greek costume influenced Etruscan styles with the fibula and the draping of wool/linen as well as the perizoma(loincloth) However, Etruscans had rounded mantles, tight fitting clothes due to tailoring (Cretan influence) as well as more jewelry and patterns on their clothing Etruscans influenced Roman style as the Romans had similar mantles like the palla and turned the round mantle into the toga; also, adopted their undergarments like the perizoma However, Romans wore a lot more layers with more draping
What is the Bayeux Tapestry? Why do we study it?
Bayeux Tapestry-over 200 ft long embroidered cloth depicting the Norman invasion on England beginning in 1064 CE. One of the most important resources for understanding the culture and fashions of the time. Shows the garments, the colors of the time, and the customs of the day with hairstyles, etc. Focuses mostly on the process of going to war and the armor and chainmail that are involved.
Effect geographical location of Constantinople had on the development of Byzantine culture and textile industry?
Between East and West, preserving the antiquity of Greece and Rome (togas) while combining this with the styles of the East (elaborate designs on fabrics). Linen and wool from the West and silk from the East
What were the Crusades? What effect do they have on clothing patterns and lifestyles in Europe?
Crusades-religious wars to get access to the Holy Land and to spread Christianity between the 11th and 13th centuries. Fighting between Christians and Muslims. Crusades brought a change in the social structure as men became knights and received a higher status in life. Created a certain middle class. Crusades brought the technology to print patterns on textiles and Byzantine influences.
Define the concept of conspicuous consumption and explain how it can influence clothing styles. Give at least three specific examples from the time periods between the 14th-18th centuries. Identify the time period in your answer.
Definition of conspicuous consumption: showing one's wealth through the owning and display of valuable objects (which clothing is an important vehicle of). Specific examples: The lavishness of 18th century clothing illustrates the principle of conspicuous consumption, evidenced in the tall, elaborate wigs and head dresses and the wide panniers that enabled dresses to display more fabric. Slashing decoration, which was popular in the Renaissance → a technique, which didn't really serve a practical purpose, that revealed the lining of fabrics (could demonstrate wealthy materials underneath?)
Difference between Doric Peplos, Doric Chiton, and Ionic chiton.
Doric peplos-tunic with an overfold often made out of wool Doric chiton-chiton with not overfold or patterning; however, contains more draping and was pinned; no sleeves and open on the right side Ionic chiton-chiton with sleeves; often patterned and embroidered
Three main ways of constructing clothing?
Draped-large, rectangular piece of fabric wrapped around the body and clipped together, oftentimes with fibula (example: toga, himation, Doric and Ionic chiton) Cut and sewn-fabric is cut and then sewn together in specific areas; wasted little fabric (example: tunic, dalmetica) Tailored-fabric that is fitted to the body; oftentimes cut and sewn (example: justacorps, waistcoat)
Describe and discuss the evolution of female undergarments (everything worn under the outer garment) used by the upper classes during the Renaissance period. Discuss the garment shapes, the types of materials used, the purpose of these clothing items, and how these undergarments affected the overall appearance of the complete outfit. Give specific examples.
During the Classical and Medieval periods, undergarments helped provide warmth and protected the skin from outer garments, and helped keep the outer garments clean. By the 16th century, there was a change in the function of undergarments: they began to work to alter the shape of the wearer's body. 17th century: linen under bodice made from two layers of fabric stiffened with glue → called stays. This made the waist to appear very small. Earlier it had been known as a pair of bodys, as it was cut into two sections and fastened at the front and back with laces or tapes. stiffening of stays was provided by a busk, which was a long flat piece of wood or whalebone that was sewn into one or more castings provided in the stays other undergarments that worked to shape the body and/or support the outer garment: verdugale, bum roll (tied around the waist and made the hips appear larger), farthingale (structure under dress used to shape the skirts of a garment) Chemise continued to be worn as the undermost garment
Discuss the evolution of the ruff during Renaissance times. Who wore it, what was it made of, how was it made, and how did it change over time?
During the Renaissance, men displayed a small, square collar of the shirt at the neck edge of the doublet. Then, the collar of the shirt became a small ruffle, and finally the ruff developed as an individual item of costume, separate from the shirt. The ruff became very popular in the second half of the 1500s and into the first decades of the 1600s. Men wore large ruffs that would stick stiffly at the neck (sometime needed to be propped up with an "underpropper," or have internal support with a frame). Often made with lace or linen. Women wore the ruff as well. There was also the later development of open ruffs, revived in the 18th and 19th centuries as Medici collars. Worn by upper classes (restricted movement). How they were made: gathering one edge of a band of fabric or lace to the size of a neck to form a frill of deep folds, or layering several round pieces of lace on top of each other.
Identify the Eastern influences incorporated into Byzantine costume. 3 ways Byzantine culture differed from Roman.
Eastern influences: ornate decorations (crowns becoming a common headdress), many layers (togas became layered tunics), jewelry was an integral part of dress 3 ways: 1st to produce silk outside of China, jewelry and ornamentation was integral part of defining social status and rank, between the East and the West, creating a unique style that incorporates both worlds
Describe the clothing items worn by the typical Greek soldier.
Helmets covered with figures and horse hair for decoration, Exomis (short chiton), breastplate over curiass (curiass made of leather; breastplate of bronze), round shield, knife or spear, greaves of leather, and sandals
Explain the different ways that information about fashion was disseminated during the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. In an era without television, how did people know what was fashionable?
In the 1500s, one way fashion spread from one part of Europe to another was through the intermarriage of royal families from different countries. Other sources of fashion information included imported garments and fabrics, books dealing with costume, and travelers who brought back information about and examples of foreign styles. Fashion plates were created in France in the late 17th century. Fashion dolls, made by Parisian dressmakers could be viewed for a relatively cheap price. In the 1790s, printed cardboard dolls and wardrobes were sold cheaply, making information about current styles available to people of lower economic classes.
Discuss the evolution in children's clothing during the 17th and 18th centuries. In addition to describing the clothing styles include in your discussion a commentary on the social forces and/or philosophical thought which influenced the way in which children were dressed.
In the second half of the 18th century, styles made especially for children (as opposed to dressing both young boys and girls in adult) came into being. The writings of of French philosopher John-Jacques Rousseau are credited for inspiring this change: he stressed the importance of modifying clothing practices to give greater freedom to children (separated the physical and social needs of children). The importation of muslin from India may have also had an impact on children's dress.
Two factors that contributed to the difference between Egyptian and Mesopotamian civilizations
Location-Mesopotamia was located in a more variable climate than Egypt. It had open borders and changed throughout its history due to other cultures coming in and taking over the land. Therefore, Mesopotamian clothing differentiated over time, making use of different shapes and styles. Egypt, on the other hand, was unchanged for over 3,000 years due to their isolated location with the Nile on one side and a desert on the other. Therefore, clothing in Ancient Egypt often went unchanged. Religious sense-Hygiene was important in the Egyptian religion and to a person's status. Therefore, Egyptians did not wear wool, like the Mesopotamians, as they saw it as unclean and dirty.
Who was Louis XIV? Explain how he influenced fashion; include specific details of styles prevalent during his time period.
Louis XIV was the King of France during the 1600's and, briefly, the 1700's. He forced his entire court to move with him to Versailles, the new capital of France, and made them spend all of their money on their wardrobe (so they didn't have enough funds to plot against him). The lower classes were heavily taxed so that wealthy noblemen and women, who would be presented at court, were able to update their wardrobe with the latest opulent fashions. he propagated a certain style of fashion in the french court, boosting france's economy (especially including textiles and clothier's) red-heeled high heel shoes were a signal that the wearer had been presented at court, large, poofy wigs, cravats, and the vest
Textile fiber most widely used in Mesopotamia? Egypt? How did the use of these fibers contribute to the unique characteristics of the garments worn?
Mesopotamia=wool most widely used due to agricultural culture Wool was easy to dye, influencing the colors in their garments and kept the people warm; wool is also not easily draped or tailored influencing the shape of their garments Egypt=linen (flax) most widely used Kept the people cool due to the hot climate; also, wool was seen as unclean and therefore was not suitable in their religious beliefs and cultural beliefs on hygiene
Compare Minoan costume and culture with that of the later Greek periods.
Minoan culture had higher status for women than the Greeks. The Minoans costume was very fitted with corset bodice, tiers on skirts, tailored, made of wool, and often bare breasted. The Greeks, on the other hand, did not like skin showing which influenced their dress as they had draped, very loose wool or linen cloth held together by fibulas.
What is parti-colored?
Parit-colored is different colored fabrics within one garment. Parti-colored began in the Middle Ages around the 12th century as a heraldic device for knights to show off their family or be recognized on the battlefield.
Identify the means by which rank and status were identified in ancient Egypt costume.
Rank and status were identified by the quality of fabric, how much fabric, amount of jewelry, amount of draping, and amount of grooming A)lower classes=schenti, tunics, very little clothing; B)royalty=pectoral necklace, Nemes headdress, postiche, calasiris; C)priests=himations You would recognize the status of a figure in a visual image through the size of the person and the amount of clothing and jewelry they were wearing. Oftentimes, the most prominent figure was the largest figure in the artworks.
Describe the major differences between English style and French style in the second half of the 18th century. What were some of the factors that contributed to these different styles?
Robe a la Francaise - full pleated cut at the back and a fitted front (this style became to be known as the Watteau back) Robe a l'Anglaise - closely fitted in the front and the back. The Robe a l'Anglaise was more popular in England and the Robe a la Francaise was more popular in France, although both styles were worn in both countries. More relaxed and practical styles of "day dress" were worn in England as an everyday thing - everyday dresses were made of cotton and had simple lines, and englishmen wore waistcoats, which didn't have stiffened collars (like the justacorps). English style: simple, practical, casual, slimming daywear; country versus city; military French style: elaborate court dress, rich and colorful, hoop skirts reduce in overall size and become panniers; hairstyles were elaborate and often involved high headdresses.
Explain the significance of slashing. What was it and how was it used? In what time period was it most prevalent?
Slashing was a decorative technique where the outer layer of a garment would be slashed (often cut in evenly-spaced vertical lines) to reveal the fabric of the inner lining. Most popular in the 1500s, but can be seen throughout the Renaissance.
Why is Spain the dominant political power in Northern Europe during the 16th century? What impact does Spain's political power have on the clothing styles worn in European countries during the last part of the 16th century
Spain grows incredibly wealthy during this period because of its exploitation of the American territories (the influx of gold and silver from Mexico and Peru). Spanish work, a fashionable type of embroidery, originated in Spain and spread through the rest of Europe (consisted of fine black thread on white linen, often being applied to the neck bands and wrists of men's shirts and women's chemises). Standards of social behavior were rigorously enforced in Spain - at the same time, clothing lines were stiff and rigid.
Name some of the reference materials (sources of evidence) costume historians use to decipher the past. Give at least 3 specific examples of source materials and the clothing item and time period they correspond with. What are some of the difficulties costume historians encounter when trying to determine information about historic clothing?
Statues and vase paintings. Example: white marble statues and vase paintings from ancient Greece reveal the clothing worn at the time (example: Doric chitons on women). Hand-colored fashion plates began to be produced in Paris in the late 17th century, and at this time, would display pronounced stomachers, corsets, multiple layers of skirts, and mantua gowns. Surviving articles of clothing. Example: surviving banyans (sort of similar to old-timey dressing gowns or bathrobes) and night caps, all from the 18th century. Some difficulties historians encounter - some information is presented according to an ideal rather than reality (example: incredibly fitted linen garments depicting in Egyptian wall paintings, although that silhouette would have been difficult to achieve and probably not indicative of how clothing actually looked on the body).
What is a sumptuary law?
Sumpturay laws dictate to higher classes the goods and outfits they could or could not wear or purchase. They were passed as a way to dictate status. They were ineffective as people often disregarded them altogether or make their garment or accessory just a little bit smaller or bigger to adhere to the sumptuary laws.
What time period is considered to be the beginning of the fashion system? What is meant by the term fashion? What are some of the events, which are credited for initiating this change?
The Late Middle Ages (14th-15th centuries) is considered the beginning of the fashion system, marked by increasingly rapid changes in styles. Some events credited for initiating this change: Economic changes in the Late Middle Ages were largely responsible for an increased interest in fashion. Greater prosperity brought fashionable clothing within the reach of the middle class (especially the merchant class). This created competition among the classes, with the new middle class determined to dress better than the upper classes. Increased trade during this time period brought a wide variety of fabrics to western Europe, allowing for the colorful and elaborate garments of the upper classes. What is meant by the term fashion: Patterns of change in which certain social forms enjoy temporary acceptance and respectability, only to be replaced by others
The 17th century is marked with continuing political unrest and social turmoil. Explain how this affected fashion and give specific details of military influences seen on clothing in the 17th century.
Thirty years war: 1618-1648. English civil war: 1642-48. English restoration in 1660. During this time, people would show their affiliations to certain countries through fashion (example: Spanish sleeves, French wisk). Cavalier look: long hair, wearing a sword as a fashion accessory, military-style doublet, narrow breeches Military style (simple) haircuts were short to fit comfortably under a helmet Slashing decoration may have been practical: allowing men to lift and swing heavy weapons without placing too great a strain on the arms. Swiss and German unifroms were made with multicolored fabrics and decorated with a variety of cuts, slashes, panes, and layers. Supposed origin of slashing: Swiss army soldiers said to have stuffed the colorful silk fabrics they had looted from an enemy keep under their badly torn clothes for warmth.
Name 4 different types of headdresses used in any period up until 1790. We'll define headdress as anything that sits on top of the natural head. Give: a) the correct term; b) the time period it was in use; c) how it was worn and who wore it; d) A description of the appearance including materials. You may also include a diagram.
a) Uraeus. b) Ancient Egypt (Ancient Middle East). c) Worn by kings and queens - could be worn on a headband, or as part of another headdress. d) It was a representation of the cobra, which was a symbol of royal power. It could be worn by itself on a headband or attached to another headdress (usually a crown). Presumably casted from metal a) Palla. b) Ancient Rome. c) Most commonly worn by Roman matrons (as they were expected to cover their heads with pallas when they left their homes), but also worn by others. It was a draped shawl. It could either by draped casually across the shoulders or pulled over the head like a veil. d) It was a shawl made from a single piece of fabric, commonly draped around the shoulders or over the head (when worn by married women out in public). Presumably made from wool (most common fabric). a) Hood with a liripipe. b) The Early Middle ages. c) Worn as a hood with a long tube of fabric hanging from the back of the hood, worn by men in the 13th century. d) A hood with a long tube of fabric hanging from the back of it, probably made from linen. a) Tricorne hat. b) Worn in the 18th century. c) It was worn on top of the head or carried under the arm. Often worn for riding. Worn by men exclusively. d) It was a three-cornered hat with a large brim. Presumably made out of some kind of stiffened fabric or leather.
Identify and discuss the impact of each of the following on late middle ages lifestyles and clothing patterns. a) development of a financially secure merchant class b) immigration to cities by peasants c) production of textiles for apparel d) international trade e) technological advances in warfare
a) development of a financially secure merchant class: Merchants could now begin to afford what was previously only available to the upper class. There was competition between this new merchant class and the upper classes, and merchants often strived to look as or more fashionable than the wealthy. b) Increased commercial activity in cities drew people from the countryside in search of work and higher salaries, and peasants fled to the cities because of poor harvests in the early years of the 14th century → high population in cities made disease easily spread, like recurrent episodes of the plague. With so much of the population decimated due to the plague, wages rose sharply, and landlords and merchants had to grant concessions to peasants and workers. c) "Putting out" became the normal way of doing textile business. A merchant became the middle man for textile workers, selling the workers the fiber, then buying back the finished cloth, selling it to the fuller, and buying it back. The merchant arranged for dyeing and sold the completed fabric to agents who sold it at a medieval trade fairs. This means that the variety of material and colors was considerable. led to greater prosperity for textile trades and more variety in the raw materials of fashion. tailors were gaining skill in cutting and sewing more sophisticated garments d) Increased trade brought increased economic prosperity, and also a wide variety of fabrics from all over the world influences of Ottoman Empire: the tippet (long, narrow sleeve extension), growing fashion for turban-like head dresses in Europe, and parallels between women's "horned" headdresses + hennins and Ottoman headgear. e) Men had adopted shorter styles of dress, like the pourpoint and hose. Plate armor.
What are some of the significant changes in women's clothing from the 16th to the 17th century? Describe the materials used and how the clothing was constructed and worn.
less structure under garments, softer fabrics (i.e. silk taffeta with sheen as opposed to brocades), less adornment on fabrics, bare forearms in 17th century Softer silhouette, elevated waist, layers of petticoats, low neckline worn off the shoulder (this was usually boned to stay on shoulders), v-shaped waistline, mantua & fontange in later part of century.
