Exam Two
What style is often seen in portraits by the Italian Renaissance?
Turban-like hats
In what city are women very fond of high chopines and light blonde hair?
Venice
What is the flared, cone-shaped skirt that requires support to achieved by?
Verdugale
What invention allowed for a closer fitting hose?
Knitting machine
What area did Byzantine influence styles?
Europe
What does "medieval civilization" mean?
Roman and Germanic civilizations
What inspired basic elements of dress in Europe throughout the dark ages?
Roman elements, such as the tunic, barbarian components such as leg wrappings
Fillet
Band placed over a veil on a woman's head, identifying she is married
What is the technique called that requires cutting points or scallops into the edges of garments, hanging sleeve flaps and even hats?
Dagging
How is Armor in the Early Middle Ages divided?
1. Soft Armor, 2. Mail, 3. Plates of metal, hardened leather, whalebone or horn
From which time periods did women wear layered tunics?
800 - 1000
What is a ferroniere?
A chain or band of metal pearls worn across the forehead
What was the most common combination of garments for women during the Italian Renaissance?
A chemise worn as an undergarment beneath a dress and an overdress on top
By the 11th century, influences from eastern decorative art had transformed Byzantine clothing by what?
Adding extensive decoration to fabrics that were often made of luxurious silk manufactured and traded by the byzantines
Houppelande
Appeared in the Late Middle Ages, looks like a poncho jacket to the floor
Around what time did Italian dress and that of Northern Europe diverge?
Around the second half of the 15th century
What was the clerical costume that became traditional for Roman Catholic priests, monks and nuns until the mid-20th century?
Bifurcated pants, fur and gartered hose
What royal brought her italian tailors, dressmakers, etc to France where they had opportunity to employ their talents?
Cahterine de Medici
Mantle
Cape or Cloak, some had opening for head others closed at the center front or side
Outdoor garments for men in the 15th century
Cape, Huke, Cloak
What is the name of the very high platformed shoe?
Chopines
Some Byzantine tunics were decorated with what?
Clavi, roundels and segmentae
Are garments for men and women tighter or looser in the 12th century?
Closer fitting to the body
What city became the capital of the Byzantine Empire and commanded both land and sea trade routes between the west and east?
Constantinople
What did conservative men wear in the late middle ages?
Cotes and Surcotes
Clothing for most individuals in western Europe was composed of what fibers?
Cotton and linen
New fabrics such as damask and fibers such as cotton were introduced to western Europe by whom?
Crusaders
Sources of evidence for the Late Middle Ages includes what?
Documents, visual arts and garments
What was the cotehardie replaced by?
Doublets or houppelandes
What were some 13th century outdoor garments during the Early Middle Ages?
Garnache, Gerigaut and gardecorps
Outdoor garments for men in the 14th century of the late middle ages included what?
Garnache, Herigaut and cloak
Coif
Head covering for common men
What is the enormous cone shaped hat inspired by the east called?
Hennin
In the 16th century, what two monarchs was England divided between?
Henry VIII and Elizabeth I
What garment did women begin wearing in the 14th century?
Houppelande
Sources of costume for Western Europe from the 5th to 8th centuries are found in what?
Illuminated manuscripts
Did the ornamentation of tunics in men's and women's dress increase or decrease after 1000?
Increased
What are the primary components of Byzantine and medieval dress?
Layered tunics combined with a mantle
Roc
Loose gown
How would clothing be acquired in Italy?
Making it at home, second hand markets and tailors
What is true about 16th century jewellery?
Men wore wide, jeweled collars that were not a part of the garment but a separate circular piece made of ornamental plates joined together. Women continued to wear large quantities of extravagant jewels. Jeweled decorations were applied to almost any part of the costume.
Where did the spirit of the Renaissance in the arts and in philosophy gradually move to?
Northern Europe
The search for unique patterns led to the sewing of different colored fabrics within one garment, what is this called?
Parti-color
Instead of an under dress and outer dress, women wore this garment and an over dress
Petticoat
What is the elongated and exaggerated pointed toe show called?
Poulaine
What is a closely fitted, sleeveless garment with a padded front that originated as a military dress?
Pourpoint
In what order were the three phases of men's styles?
Renaissance, German, Spanish
What marked the Late Middle Ages?
Revival in trade, commerce and industry that encouraged growth of populations.
The practice and process of breeding, feeding and raising silk worms to create silk fiber is called?
Sericulture
What is true about women's costume during the 16th century?
Silhouettes of dresses grew wider and fuller, turbans became more fashionable, bodices became more rigid, a reflection of increasing Spanish influence on Italian styles
What component distinguished Italian Renaissance styles?
Sleeves
What theme is apparent while contrasting men and women's dress during the Late Middle Ages?
Social Roles
What is the embroidery called that is often applied to the neck and wrists of men's shirts and women's chemises, which consisted of delicate, black silk figures on fine white linen?
Spanish work
What are the laws called that dictate who is allowed to wear what and when?
Sumptuary laws
By the mid-16th century, upper hose and nether hose had evolved into a large, padded breech called what?
Trunk hose
What is an overtunic?
Tunic that might allow undertunic to show at the sleeve and skirt hems
The garnache, herigaut and gardecorps were forms of what for men?
Surcotes
Codpieces were worn for what reasons?
Syphilis epidemic, a decorate element that attached hose to the doublet, to make the hose fit properly
When did the clerical costume originate?
The Early Middle Ages
What time period did dress rituals such as baptism and mourning for students and military appear?
The Late Middle Ages
Late medieval society can be divided into three classes, what are these classes?
The nobility, the bourgeoisie, and the peasants, with clergy as a distinct and separate group
By the 16th century, undergarments for women took on this new role of what?
The shaping and support of the outer garments
Changes in the last quarter of the 16th century included what?
The skirt grew wider at the top supported by bum rolls, ruffs grew to enormous widths, farthingale was modified
What two fibers were woven primarily in Italy?
Wool and Silk
What did upper class men of the 6th century byzantine empire wear?
Wore a tunic and a cloak called a paludamentum. Large embroidered square at the front, called a tabilon proclaimed high status.