Exam Two

What style is often seen in portraits by the Italian Renaissance?

Turban-like hats

In what city are women very fond of high chopines and light blonde hair?

Venice

What is the flared, cone-shaped skirt that requires support to achieved by?

Verdugale

What invention allowed for a closer fitting hose?

Knitting machine

What area did Byzantine influence styles?

Europe

What does "medieval civilization" mean?

Roman and Germanic civilizations

What inspired basic elements of dress in Europe throughout the dark ages?

Roman elements, such as the tunic, barbarian components such as leg wrappings

Fillet

Band placed over a veil on a woman's head, identifying she is married

What is the technique called that requires cutting points or scallops into the edges of garments, hanging sleeve flaps and even hats?

Dagging

How is Armor in the Early Middle Ages divided?

1. Soft Armor, 2. Mail, 3. Plates of metal, hardened leather, whalebone or horn

From which time periods did women wear layered tunics?

800 - 1000

What is a ferroniere?

A chain or band of metal pearls worn across the forehead

What was the most common combination of garments for women during the Italian Renaissance?

A chemise worn as an undergarment beneath a dress and an overdress on top

By the 11th century, influences from eastern decorative art had transformed Byzantine clothing by what?

Adding extensive decoration to fabrics that were often made of luxurious silk manufactured and traded by the byzantines

Houppelande

Appeared in the Late Middle Ages, looks like a poncho jacket to the floor

Around what time did Italian dress and that of Northern Europe diverge?

Around the second half of the 15th century

What was the clerical costume that became traditional for Roman Catholic priests, monks and nuns until the mid-20th century?

Bifurcated pants, fur and gartered hose

What royal brought her italian tailors, dressmakers, etc to France where they had opportunity to employ their talents?

Cahterine de Medici

Mantle

Cape or Cloak, some had opening for head others closed at the center front or side

Outdoor garments for men in the 15th century

Cape, Huke, Cloak

What is the name of the very high platformed shoe?

Chopines

Some Byzantine tunics were decorated with what?

Clavi, roundels and segmentae

Are garments for men and women tighter or looser in the 12th century?

Closer fitting to the body

What city became the capital of the Byzantine Empire and commanded both land and sea trade routes between the west and east?

Constantinople

What did conservative men wear in the late middle ages?

Cotes and Surcotes

Clothing for most individuals in western Europe was composed of what fibers?

Cotton and linen

New fabrics such as damask and fibers such as cotton were introduced to western Europe by whom?

Crusaders

Sources of evidence for the Late Middle Ages includes what?

Documents, visual arts and garments

What was the cotehardie replaced by?

Doublets or houppelandes

What were some 13th century outdoor garments during the Early Middle Ages?

Garnache, Gerigaut and gardecorps

Outdoor garments for men in the 14th century of the late middle ages included what?

Garnache, Herigaut and cloak

Coif

Head covering for common men

What is the enormous cone shaped hat inspired by the east called?

Hennin

In the 16th century, what two monarchs was England divided between?

Henry VIII and Elizabeth I

What garment did women begin wearing in the 14th century?

Houppelande

Sources of costume for Western Europe from the 5th to 8th centuries are found in what?

Illuminated manuscripts

Did the ornamentation of tunics in men's and women's dress increase or decrease after 1000?

Increased

What are the primary components of Byzantine and medieval dress?

Layered tunics combined with a mantle

Roc

Loose gown

How would clothing be acquired in Italy?

Making it at home, second hand markets and tailors

What is true about 16th century jewellery?

Men wore wide, jeweled collars that were not a part of the garment but a separate circular piece made of ornamental plates joined together. Women continued to wear large quantities of extravagant jewels. Jeweled decorations were applied to almost any part of the costume.

Where did the spirit of the Renaissance in the arts and in philosophy gradually move to?

Northern Europe

The search for unique patterns led to the sewing of different colored fabrics within one garment, what is this called?

Parti-color

Instead of an under dress and outer dress, women wore this garment and an over dress

Petticoat

What is the elongated and exaggerated pointed toe show called?

Poulaine

What is a closely fitted, sleeveless garment with a padded front that originated as a military dress?

Pourpoint

In what order were the three phases of men's styles?

Renaissance, German, Spanish

What marked the Late Middle Ages?

Revival in trade, commerce and industry that encouraged growth of populations.

The practice and process of breeding, feeding and raising silk worms to create silk fiber is called?

Sericulture

What is true about women's costume during the 16th century?

Silhouettes of dresses grew wider and fuller, turbans became more fashionable, bodices became more rigid, a reflection of increasing Spanish influence on Italian styles

What component distinguished Italian Renaissance styles?

Sleeves

What theme is apparent while contrasting men and women's dress during the Late Middle Ages?

Social Roles

What is the embroidery called that is often applied to the neck and wrists of men's shirts and women's chemises, which consisted of delicate, black silk figures on fine white linen?

Spanish work

What are the laws called that dictate who is allowed to wear what and when?

Sumptuary laws

By the mid-16th century, upper hose and nether hose had evolved into a large, padded breech called what?

Trunk hose

What is an overtunic?

Tunic that might allow undertunic to show at the sleeve and skirt hems

The garnache, herigaut and gardecorps were forms of what for men?

Surcotes

Codpieces were worn for what reasons?

Syphilis epidemic, a decorate element that attached hose to the doublet, to make the hose fit properly

When did the clerical costume originate?

The Early Middle Ages

What time period did dress rituals such as baptism and mourning for students and military appear?

The Late Middle Ages

Late medieval society can be divided into three classes, what are these classes?

The nobility, the bourgeoisie, and the peasants, with clergy as a distinct and separate group

By the 16th century, undergarments for women took on this new role of what?

The shaping and support of the outer garments

Changes in the last quarter of the 16th century included what?

The skirt grew wider at the top supported by bum rolls, ruffs grew to enormous widths, farthingale was modified

What two fibers were woven primarily in Italy?

Wool and Silk

What did upper class men of the 6th century byzantine empire wear?

Wore a tunic and a cloak called a paludamentum. Large embroidered square at the front, called a tabilon proclaimed high status.