Fashion Sustainability

New Dior Couture Collection

traveling theatre of mini fashions (dollsized figurines), real proportions, textiles, and craftsmanship

Textile Production

•Cotton Production (takes up most amount of water, most water absorbing) •Wool Production •Manufactured Fibers; mircofibers •Leather Production; chemicals

SUSTAINABLE OPERATIONS OF FASHION BRAND COMPANIES

•Creating environmentally sustainable building and store designs. •Reusing and recycling resources used in company operations.

Inclusion

•Degree to which diverse individuals are able to participate fully in decision-making processes within organization or group. •Results in greater democratic decision making. -Ralph Lauren creating dialogue about racial injustice and lbgtq rights -Gucci launched gender fluid collection -ex. ROCK THE WHEEL; cool & comfortable wardrobe (6 essential pieces) for wheelchair users needs -ex. meaningful options of adaptive clothing, uniqlo heavy on modest fashion (in support of muslim culture) -kaycee marshall (disabled fashion designer/ incorporated stretchy fabrics in clothes)

Social Objectives and Business Objectives are Unrelated

•Donating a percentage of sales to charities •Selling limited edition or exclusive collections with proceeds funding a charity or cause. Brands such as Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Aquatalia, Dior have created capsule collections with a percentage of proceeds benefiting particular causes

SUSTAINABILITY GOALS AND PLANS

•Eileen Fisher: "My 30-year plan is for us to be a powerful force for change in the world." •In 1997, the company created a social consciousness team. •The team focuses on: -Supporting women through social initiatives that address well-being. -Practicing business responsibility with regard for human rights. -Guiding product and practice toward sustaining our environment. •The companies Vision 2020; sustainability plan focuses on all aspects - environmental, social, cultural and economic - a holistic approach! •Systems Approach - companies focus on "the interactions and on the relationships between parts in order to understand an entity's organization, functioning and outcomes." •Systems Thinking - is the "understanding bigger contexts over longer periods and looking at the connections, not the parts, for insights." •Sustainability Plans -Commitments, goals, implementation plans, and assessments •Examples of Sustainability Plans -M&S Plan A/2025 - U.K. based retailer a leader in sustainability

Creating an Emotional and/or Experiential Connection between the Item and the Wearer

•Emotionally durable design •Creating heirlooms •Co-creation/Co-production •Narratives around shared values •Creating shared experiences

textile-apparel-retail supply chain

•Energy Use; -mechanization -globalization/shipping of good before distribution -maintenance of clothing -ex. Nike launched carbon and energy program that resulted in increase use of energy from renewable resources and less from contract factories •Use of Hazardous Chemicals -pesticides (pollutes waterways and hazardous for workers) -Restricted Substance Lists(RSL): reflect compliance with legal limits of use of hazardous substances; restrict or ban chemicals; protects safety of workers -ex. Greenpeace launch of Detox My Fashion/Catwalk •Use of Conflict Minerals; -tin, tungsten, tantalum, gold mined under conditions that violate human rights or finance armed conflicts -ex. conflict minerals rule; companies must file report on how their complying if needed metal hardware such as zippers, buttons, or functional trim

TRENDS IN ENVIRONMENTAL, SOCIAL, CULTURAL, AND ECONOMIC SUSTAINABILITY

•Environmental Sustainability: Creating a Circular Economy •Social and Cultural Sustainability: Beyond Auditing •Economic Sustainability: Scalability •Consumer Engagement: Redefining Fashion Consumption Aim to Educate and Empower Consumers in

Use of Environmentally Responsible Materials

•Made from renewable resources; ex. polyester •Produced with recycled, limited amount, or no chemicals •Made from recycled materials that would otherwise be disposed; -ex. Stella Mcartney recycled things thrown into ocean (adidas, mcartney, & evernew); blended fabrications are nearly impossible to recycle •Commercially available •Materials for proprietary use; patent (ex. patagonia leads in hemp based goods)

Wool Production

(2nd most popular natural fiber) •Environmental impact; water consumption, use of chemicals which leads to pollution •Treatment of animals; free range, PETA (rights and protection groups) •Certifications and standards; -fair trade (paying living wage, provide opportunities for advancement, sustainable practices, build long-term relationships, provide financial assistance, safe working conditions) -Responsible Wool Standard; sheeps treated responsibly and progressive approach to managing land -eco wool; shared from sheep that are allowed to roam -mulesing: practice where flesh is stripped from buttocks of merino lambs to create skin with no wrinkles or folds

Issues and Challenges:Fashion supply chain

(exploit human and natural resources to satisfy consumers want for inexpensive and quickly changing clothing) •Textile Production; (produces ton of waste); -blended fabrics cant extract and be recycled •Apparel Production; Levi's created less samples, 3d design models (without wasting fabric) (fashion industry is 2nd largest polluter in world) •Textile-Apparel-Retail Supply Chain; •Over-consumption and Postconsumer Textile Waste; upcycle of whats considered deadstock fabrics * It's Ralph Lauren and Snap/Bitmoji; drest- rent virtual clothes vs. real clothes

OVER-CONSUMPTION AND POSTCONSUMER TEXTILE WASTE

-Reducing Consumption of Clothing; -cost per wearing, repairing worn clothing, focusing on essentials -slow fashion; quality over quantity, longevity of use, local (domestic) sourcing -ex. Nau brand designs high quality apparel with closed loop fibers, little waste as possible, worn across seasons -Reducing Postconsumer Textile Waste; -postconsumer textile waste; overconsumption of low-quality, inexpensive clothing -collection, recycling, upcycling, reselling, repurposing, heightened consumer awareness -ex. levis created jeans made from fabrics with at least 50% postconsumer cotton waste

fashions dirty secrets article

-can take 4,000 to 5,000 gallons of water to conventionally grow the cotton needed to make a single pair of jeans -Waterways are being irreversibly harmed by textile growers and manufacturers, who are collectively creating climate change, human health risks and environmental damage -can be fixed by selecting organic fabrics, refusing to participate in "fast fashion" and buying only the clothes you truly need and will wear for a long time

Hierarchy of Social Compliance Programs

-self directed continuing improvement, -capacity building, -brand/supplier relationship -code of conduct & auditing checklist

Social Change

Discernible transformation of cultural and social institutions over time (social processes, interactions, organizations) due to changes in environment or technology (climate change, deforestation, migration, social media) ex. Liya Kebede- Lemlem; better education standards, employment

Social Change and Fashion

Fashion is both a reflection of and catalyst for social change; -fashion reflects norms and values of a society; -facilitate change on social justice issues; ex. Obakki (luxury brand) Foundation provides clean water and education in parts of Africa -reduce amount of clothing thrown away -so many people depend of fashion industry for living -thread up, upcycle

Sustainability

ability to maintain or improve standards of living without damaging or depleting natural resources for present and future generations all-encompassing; ex. fair standard of living/working, how many shelf lives material has, renewable resources

manufactured fibers

cellulosic: rayon ((artificial silk), lyocell, acetate •Regenerated Cellulosic Fibers; -biodegradable, made from plants harvested, require less water, dont need to be washed -patagonia has hemp initiative; -tencel (made from lyocell): odor resistant -cellulose(wood pulp) -byson hair (shedded) •Synthetic Fibers -Environmental Impact; dont decompose, release heavy metals into soil and water -Recycling -ex. nylon and polyester -DuPoint: 1st company to successfully market these -ralph lauren is working with tech driven textile companies to use recycled fibers

Diversity

demographic mix of people that includes individual differences & group/social differences; •Age; ageism (younger people preferred over older) •Gender; identity & expression; -gender fluidity is limited -inequality and discrimination in industry •Culture, Race, and Ethnicity; -cultural or ethnic appropriation (borrowing symbolic elements without belonging to that group) •Socio-economic Status; -combo of education, income, and occupation -inequalities related to privilege, power, and control •Disability; -impaired relative to standard of individual or group -adaptive clothing •Ideals of Attractiveness; -aspirational characteristics that represent society norms of beauty and aesthetics (often unattainable representations- young, thin, white, able bodied) -marketing, advertising, magazines, television, film *Mental Wellness; so important e.g. Madhappy - LMVH -winnie harlow -good boy clothing

Universal Design

meet needs of all people who use it •Ability Inclusive •Size Inclusive •Gender Inclusive

SUSTAINABLE COMMUNITIES

•"Economically, environmentally, and socially healthy and resilient" •Meets challenges through integrated solutions rather than through fragmented approaches. •Takes a long-term perspective - present and future - and beyond the next budget or election. •Several factors: •Economic health & security with sustainable job creation ("The Ouai Forward" Transparency Report on hiring) •Public services and infrastructure •Environmental health (water, air, biodiversity, energy and ecosystems) •Civic engagement and participation in planning and implementing community initiatives •Educational opportunities •Culture and art •Justice, equity and social well-being •Social Enterprise - businesses and organizations that address a basic unmet need or solve a social problem through a market drive approach. Combine commercial business objectives and activities with social objectives and activities. Social Entrepreneur - identifies opportunities for marketable innovations to address social objectives - ex. Rebecca Van Bergen - Nest-nonprofit for the social and economic advancement of global artisans/ homeworkers

Corporate Foundations

•(or Company Sponsored Foundations); The C&A Foundation - a Dutch retail company-stores in Europe, Asia and Americas (I worked with them at Doneger). Foundation aims to improve lives where it operates. •Established to address specific issues or problems. •Private or public •Obakki, pictured, focuses on projects in Africa

BUSINESS LOGISTICS

•Accurate Sales Forecasting - estimate future sales to avoid overproduction and surplus of inventory to be sold at discount prices and/or disposed/sold as textile waste. •Minimal Transportation - smart fashion companies strive to minimize the amount and distance components and finished goods must travel. •Environmentally Sustainable Modes of Transportation; -Ocean or sea freight -Air freight -Rail freight -Trucks -Intermodal or multimodal transportation

Examples of Standards, Certifications, and Labeling Programs

•Better Cotton Standard System •bluesign® Standard and Certification •Cradle to Cradle Certified® •OEKO-TEX® •Organic Certifications •Certifications overseen by Textile Exchange

Social Justice

•Both a goal and process. •Goal: full and equal participation •Process: ensure distribution of resources is equitable. -role fashion plays: solution-based design; Healthwear (medically related clothing that address challenges craeted by illness or disability)

Decreased Reliance on Fossil Fuels and Increased Use of Renewable Energy Sources

•Carbon footprint; -measurement used to assess amount of fossil fuel consumed -nordstrom, amazon •Closed-loop recycling systems; -production process which postconsumer waste is collected, recycled, and used to make new products -ex. Ecofi; made from recycled plastic & soda bottles -ex. recycled polyester, nylon, synthetic fibers •Alternatives to conventional synthetic fibers; -ex. patagonia launched non-neoprene wetsuits made with natural rubber •Energy use; -decrease use of energy from nonrenewable sources, increase use of energy from renewable resources; ex. windmills, solar panels

Environmental Sustainability: Creating a Circular Economy

•Circular economy •Circular fashion system - Lenzing Tencel Lyocell and REPREVE 100% recycled fiber/yarn •Strategies used by fashion brand companies; Stella McCartney •City, company, and university collaborations •Cafe yarns, made from recycled coffee grounds, used for sports apparel

Classic Design or Design for Style Adaptability

•Classic fashion; simple taste, design appropriate to many individuals; ex. trenchcoat, blazer, polo coat •Fashion adaptable designs •Heritage brands; distinguish themselves based on quality, classic styling, and longevity of use; ex. Burberry, Brooks Brothers, Timberland

SOCIAL COMPLIANCE PROGRAMS

•Codes of Conduct •Factory Auditing •Industrywide Initiatives, Organizations, and Certifications •Hierarchy of Social Compliance Programs

Business Frameworks for Sustainability and Social Change

•Corporate Social Responsibility; -business initiatives that contribute to sustainable development; Patagonia •Triple Bottom Line Framework; -profit; financial performance, sales, jobs created -people (social justice); human rights, safety, community impact -environmental quality (planet); carbon footprint, reuse of resources, pollution reduction (reflect company's commitment to economic, social, and environmental sustainability) •Conscious Capitalism; 1. higher purpose 2. stakeholder integration 3. conscious leadership 4. conscious culture and management -mutually beneficial & interconnected partnerships, shift back to domestic production and nearshoring (due to loss of supply chains) •Certified B Corporations™; -nonprofit organization dedicated to using power of business to solve social and environmental problems (BLab) -companies that meet best and highest standards of ethical and sustainable practices- very hard to get (Eileen Fisher, Patagonia/public transparency, legal accountability, environmental performance)

Types of Sustainability

•Environmental Sustainability; 1) reducing consumption of Non-renewable resources (ex. natural gas, oil, coal) 2) ensuring consumption of Renewable resources (ex. solar energy, wind) does not exceed longterm rates of natural regeneration (without depleting or damaging environment) •Economic Sustainability; -economic production must serve common good, self-renewing, build human capacity; financially feasible •Social Sustainability; -diversity and inclusion; -shared structures and processes that allow for individuals health & wellbeing (food, clean water, shelter, education, realization of personal potential, citizenship) -equitable, diverse, connected, democratic, good quality of life •Cultural Sustainability; -embracing & awareness of different cultures; -positive, equitable, and enduring relationships

Cotton Production

•Environmental impact •Child and forced labor •Processing; use of pesticides, fertilizers, herbicides, large consumption of chemicals and water (average of 10850 liters of water required to make one pair of cotton jeans) •Organic cotton •Fair trade -cotton represents almost half of total fiber used to make clothing -organic cotton eliminates use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, and conserves water

Equity

•Equity is a goal not a process. •Goal; promote justice, impartiality, and fairness within processes and distribution of resources by systems and/or institutions with society -uplift people and economies

LONGEVITY OF USE

•Extending the Life of Fashions Requires intentional behaviors from both the creator/manufacturer of the fashion brand and the ultimate consumer/user

DIVERSE AND INCLUSIVE IMAGERY AND PROMOTION OF FASHION PRODUCTS

•Fashion advertising and promotional imagery communicates and reinforces ideals of attractiveness; -runway shows; fashion editorials; advertising; social media influences; retailer visual displays •Principles of Responsible Marketing; -greater model diversity -broader beauty ideals -promote self esteem -less objectification of hyper-sexualized -Ashley graham positive spokesmen for embracing different body figures, new face of gucci has down syndrom; creates inclusivity and dialogue -ex. Caryn Franklin founded "All Walks Beyond the Catwalk" to challenge fashion industrys dependence on unachievable and limited body and beauty ideals by respecting diversity

fashion process

•Fast fashion accelerates Fashion process (cycle) -consumer behavior

Size, Style, and Technical Alterability

•Fit or size adaptability; -larger seams, fastenings, adjustable waistbands, etc. •Offering components and/or services to fix or mend items; -Patagonia, Birkenstock, Coach •Companies that offer services to alter, fix, resize, and/or restyle fashions

Codes of Conduct

•General principles •Management philosophy statements •Compliance statements and/or directives

Factory Auditing

•Goals of factory auditing •First-party, second-party, and third-party audits (e.g. - WRAP - Table 5.1 Page 127 Textbook, Intertek, Verité) •Audit fatigue

SOCIAL AWARENESS AND POLICY ADVOCACY IN FASHION

•Heightening Social Awareness •Policy Advocacy •Fashion as a Vehicle to Advance Philanthropic and Advocacy Efforts •K.I.D.S/Fashion Delivers/Delivering Good

STRATEGIES FOR DESIGN AND MERCHANDISING FOR LONGEVITY OF USE

•High Quality and Durable Fabrics and Construction Techniques •Classic Design or Design for Style Adaptability •Fewer and Trans-Seasonal Collections/Lines •Modular and/or Multifunctional Design •Upcycling; discarded fabrics are used to create other products with higher value •Creating An Emotional and/or Experiential Connection Between the Item and the Wearer

Risk Management Issues

•Human trafficking and modern slavery - no "sweatshop" conditions •Child labor •Worker compensation and workplace standards and safety •Product integrity •Environmental sustainability •Reasons for the existence of these issues

Social Enterprise and Social Entrepreneur

•Indigenous Designs is a social enterprise committed to enhancing the lives of the artisans who create their merchandise. ex. Lemlem

company policies, procedures and advocacy

•Internal Diversity Programs •Supplier/Vendor Diversity Programs; partnering with supplier and vendor to promote diversity -ex. WE women by Lindex; integrate gender equality into supplier management systems; training and resources provided •External Policy Advocacy; make changes in local, federal, and global policies; getting message out

PACKAGING

•Labels •Product Protection •Shipping Container Materials •Shipping Container and Packaging Size and Volume •Packaging Filler •Patagonia conducted a study and 30% of garments that went through system without poly bags were damaged or had physical signs of dirt, thus making them unsellable. •So companies are trying to use recycled poly bags, reduce the size of poly bags, recycle them back at distribution center. •UPS, FedEx and USPS using recycled materials in their shipping boxes. •A number of other companies offer recycled boxes, envelopes, and mailers from Treecycle, Ecobox, and Globe Guard. •Packaging Styrofoam peanuts being replaced with options like Ecovative Mushroom packaging filler.

LAWS, RECULATIONS, INDUSTRY STANDARDS, AND CERTIFICATIONS

•Laws and Regulations; -Clean Air Act; regulated emissions of air pollutants -Clean Water Act; regulated discharges of pollutants in water & quality standards -Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, Rodenticide Act; regulates all pesticides •Industry Standards, Certifications, and Labeling Programs; -global in nature; ex. ISO, Better Cotton Initative -country specific; ex. USDA organic -specific to company; ex. timberlands green index

LEADERSHIP THROUGHOUT THE SUSTAINABLE FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN

•Leadership comes from social influence •Leadership is goal oriented •Leadership is about empowering others •There are as many effective leadership styles as there are people

reduced water consumption

•Using less water to grow cotton •Eliminating chemicals in wastewater and recycling water in fiber/fabric processing; creating closed circular loop system •Using less water in fiber/fabric processing •Reducing water use in laundering and care of apparel; levis saying to wash jeans every 4 washes to save water

apparel production

•Modern Slavery; forced work, debt bondage, servitude, trafficking •Forced Labor; -performs under threat or punishment -triangle shirtwaist factory fire; workers denied bathroom breaks and living wage (not paid overtime), no ability to negotiate for better terms •Child Labor •Worker Safety; no access to personal protection with pandemic; no codes of conduct •Industry Alliances and Initiatives

Modular and/or Multi-Functional Design

•Modular design; strategy to build systems of complex products from small individual subsystems that work as an integrated whole •Multi-functional design; -greater versatility and function -ex. removable layers, reversible jackets

Connecting Consumers with Sustainable Fashion Brands

•Nonprofit organizations •Online marketplaces ex. Goodwill - shopgoodwill.com

Environmentally Sustainable Modes of Transportation

•Ocean or sea freight - emits lower amounts of polluting gases and newer technologies allow for some wind/solar power, but slow mode (good for things you need in bulk/don't need quickly). •Air freight - Relatively expensive and weight/size limitations, polluting emissions. Fast! •Rail freight - New technologies and hybrid electric-diesel trains. Often combined with trucking. •Trucks - Biodiesel or diesel/biodiesel blends are making more sustainable. Intermodal or multimodal transportation - different modes used for different needs within the supply chain

Social Objectives and Business Objectives Overlap

•One-for-one model; Los Angeles based TOM's footwear - every time a consumer buys a product, the company donates a related product or service to someone in need. •Support for nonprofit organizations that are related to business objectives

Sustainability & Fashion

•Optimizing interconnected relationships among environmental, economic, social and cultural systems for long-term prosperity and improved quality of life; sharing knowledge for betterment of everyone -sustainability occurs within supply chain and broader context in which industry exists •Sustainable development- takes into consideration environmental impact, economic efficiency, and quality of life; social equality & environmental responsibility; ex. wooden toothbrushes, Eileen Fischer, Kroger (make customer feel safer during pandemic)

High Quality and Durable Fabrics and Construction Techniques

•Physical durability; high quality, extended use •ASTM Test Methods; strength testing, abrasion resistance, elasticity, pilling, color fastness, stain resistance "Making a garment last is very different than making a long-lasting garment"; more than quality materials or construction but ab consumer maintaining relationship with product

The Global Fashion Industry: Historical Context

•Pre-Industrial Revolution; -clothing; handmade (spinning, weaving) (appreciation for craft); occurring in homes; valued possessions reflecting natural resources available and time devoted to handwork; leftover fabrics would be used; reconstructed to fit multiple individuals overtime; repurposed •Industrial Revolution; -mass production (machine-made, steam power, factories); growth of ready to wear fashion; labor intensive (provided cheap labor for immigrants, women, and children); eli whitney's cotton gin invention; expansion of slavery; sweatshops (long hours, low wages, unsanitary & dangerous working conditions) •Search for the Cheap Needle; -ready-to-wear clothing became affordable and available to middle class (diversified distribution and retailing channels) -clothing production moving where wages were lower (lesser developed countries) -world trade organization(1995) encouraged international trade and economic development of lesser developed countries through clothing and textile industries •Today's Fashion Supply Chain Network; low wages for workers; -price doesnt always reflect true value of product or the natural/human resources required to produce or sell it -growth of fast fashion; clothing is viewed as disposable; worn once or twice and thrown away -growth of factories results in exploitation of workers & natural resources

Historical Perspective

•Pre-Industrial Revolution; handmade textiles were valued and rarely thrown away •Industrial Revolution; mass produced; Ready-to-Wear Industry (less expensive, readily available) •Fast Fashion; designed to be worn only few times then disposed

Leather production

•Pre-Tanning Stage; -hides cured, hair removed, "baiting" •Tanning Stage; -vegetable (from bark, leaves, or plants) or mineral method, -chrome tanning (most environmentally damaging) •Post-Tanning Stage; -bossing, buffing, finishing •Environmental Impact; -solid waste, pollutant •Certifications (ecofriendly); -ex. Italian national standard •New Technologies; -sulfide free unhairing processes, nonchrome tanning processes, natural dyestuffs, reduced water consumption -zara is using more sustainable processes

Product Life Cycle assessment

•Product Life Cycle (stages); 1. Introduction (design created) 2. Growth (sales) 3. Maturity (modifications) 4. Decline (demand diminishes) Life Cycle Assessment; -scientific analysis and measurement of environmental footprint of product -environmental footprint; summary of products environmental damage •Life Cycle Assessment of Cotton; -growing, creation of yarns, fabrics, products; use, recycle, repurpose -biodegradable -organic cotton > traditionally produced cotton; reduced global warming, acidification, soil erosion, water consumption, energy demand •Life Cycle Assessment of a Pair of Levi's® 501® Jeans; -production, use, care; repurpose or upcycle -water consumption; 3800 liters of water used in jeans life cycle -climate change; 33.4kg of carbon dioxide produced during jean life cycle -company aims to produce less samples •Self-Assessment Tools for Fashion Brand Companies; **higg index- self-assessment tool; empower brands of all sizes to measure their own environmental, social, and labor impacts and identify areas for improvement

Sustainable Retailers of Previously Owned Fashion Products

•Re-commerce •Consignment/Vintage •Charitable donations •Upcycling

CONSUMER/USER ATTITUDES AND BEHAVIOR

•Reducing Consumption and Buying Fewer and Higher Quality Items •Caring for Fashion Items •Repairing and/or Altering Fashions •Sharing Fashions

SUPPY CHAIN ASSURANCE

•Responsible (Ethical) Sourcing •Responsible (Ethical) Production - e.g. no excessive hours, workplace is safe, clean, healthy, PPE - Personal protection equipment - e.g. gloves •Responsible (Ethical) Purchasing Practices

PACKAGING/UPCYCLING/RECYCLING

•Return Plan; Eileen Fisher, Patagonia, Adidas, Nike, Back to MAC (Cosmetics)

Financial Stability of Social Enterprises

•Return on investment (ROI) -Business objectives -Social objectives •Nonprofit organizations; government organizations (NGOs); nonprofit voluntary citizens' groups that operate independent of governments for a common mission; World Wildlife Fund •For-profit organizations - what is the net profit or net income - actual profit after all of the expenses have been paid; Fabric of Change Initiative

SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGEMENT ISSUES IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY

•Risk Management - identification, analysis, assessment, control and avoidance, minimization or elimination of unacceptable risks. Due diligence - pro-active assessment of risks and investigation of incidents of abuse anywhere in the supply chain, remedying those situations and publicly reporting on how they are addressed •Human rights should be protected and include: - civil and political rights - economic, social and cultural rights; education - collective rights; to development & self-determination

Economic Sustainability: Scalability

•Scalability definition •Advice to fashion brand companies -Ex. Patagonia's move into offering Fair Trade certified merchandise and Worn Wear program

TYPES OF SOCIAL ENTERPRISES IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY

•Social Objectives and Business Objectives: - Are Directly Aligned - May Overlap - May Be Unrelated •Corporate Foundations

Social Objectives and Business Objectives are Directly Aligned

•Social firms; social objective driven; Raven + Lily, a certified B Corp headquartered in Austin, TX employs marginalized and at-risk women globally with fair trade wages, health care, education, safe environments. •Employee well-being programs; Eileen Fisher - yoga and mental health, Patagonia on-site and sponsored child care •Organizations that connect beneficiaries with consumer markets •Social enterprises, organized as cooperatives, are owned and operated by their members for the benefit of their members; ex. ClothRoads

Social and Cultural Sustainability: Beyond Auditing

•Start at the design and/or production stages •Move "beyond auditing" -Shared structures and processes -Positive, enduring, and equitable relationships

SUPPLY CHAIN TRACEABILTY AND TRANSPARENCY

•Supply Chain Traceability •Supply Chain Transparency •International Standards and Legal Mandates for Transparency •Company Reporting for Supply Chain Transparency -Mandatory reporting -Supplier Transparency -Worker/Producer Transparency Price Transparency

SOURCING AND SUPPLY CHAIN MANAGEMENT IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY

•Supply Chain and Sourcing •Supply Chain Management

Supply Chain and Sourcing

•Supply chain - encompasses three general functions related to a company's production and distribution of merchandise. 1.Supply of materials to a manufacturer. 2.The manufacturing process. 3.The distribution of finished goods through a network of distributors and retailers to a final customer. •Value chain - used to describe these functions and is often preferred by companies to reinforce a process orientation and value-added aspects of each step in creating a fashion product. •Sourcing decisions: 1)Who will design your products? 2) How, when and where materials will be purchased, and 3) How, when and where the merchandise will be produced and distributed

SUSTAINABLE FASHION RETAILERS

•Sustainable Retailers of New Fashion Products •Sustainable Retailers of Previously Owned Fashion Products •Connecting Consumers with Sustainable Fashion Brands

Consumer Engagement: Redefining Fashion Consumption

•Sustainable fashion consumer •Fashion brand companies initiatives to educate and empower consumers -Encourage consumers to only purchase what they need -Focus on fashion as a valued resource -Educate and encourage consumers around sustainable practices, caring for and mending fashions, responsible disposal of fashion items -Report impact of strategies •Organization and industry-wide initiatives to educate and empower consumers •Sustainable fashion influencers and celebrities; Emma Watson

forms of obsolescence

•Technical obsolescence •Style or aesthetic obsolescence •Fit obsolescence •Psychological obsolescence •Economic obsolescence

fashion process and forms of obsolescence

•The Fashion Process; dynamic mechanism of change through which a potential new fashion is created, publicly introduced & accepted, to eventual obsolescence •Forms of Obsolescence; -decline in competitiveness, usefulness, or value -ex. Technical, style, fit, psychological, economic

Advancing Cultural and Ethnic Sustainability

•Traditional Dress; reflect history •Cultural Appreciation •Cultural Appropriation; dolce & gabanna chopsticks commercial

Fewer and Trans-Seasonal Collections/Lines

•Trans-seasonal fabrics •Styles that can be worn across seasons •Layered fashions for weather changes

Reduced Textile Waste

•Types of textile waste; -Pre-consumer textile waste; created during manufacturing process (leftover scraps) -Postconsumer textile waste; discarded by consumers -Industrial textile waste; industrial applications •Strategies for reducing pre-consumer textile waste; -Zero waste design -Reclaimed fibers (patagonia, levis, eileen fisher leading the way) •Strategies for reducing postconsumer textile waste; -Repurpose -Upcycle -Reclaimed fibers

INCLUSIVE AND EQUITABLE FASHION PRODUCTS

•Universal Design •Advancing Cultural and Ethnic Sustainability ex. nike collabed with back to the future (for parkinsons foundation which is self lacing sneakers)

Upcycling

•Upcycling pre-consumer and postconsumer waste; -items transformed to create products with higher value than what was being discarded •Deadstock fabric; -flawed fabrics, leftovers from mills)

STRATEGIES TO DECREASE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF FASHION PRODUCTS

•Use of Environmentally Responsible Materials •Reduced Water Consumption; wrangler use foam water and chemical to reduce carbon footprint •Decreased Reliance on Fossil Fuels and Increased Use of Renewable Energy Sources; harness use of windmill power •Reduced Textile Waste; upcycling; Fabscrap

SLOW FASHION MOVEMENT

•Use of Small-Scale, Traditional Techniques •Local Sourcing •Co-creation/Co-production; enhance customers connection to product •Environmental, Social, Cultural, Economic Sustainability •Designing for Durability; amplify users ability to engage with fashion from context of resourcefulness and satifaction

Supply Chain Management

•When considering new factories, or evaluating current ones, we take a fourfold vetting approach; social and environmental practices equally with quality standards and business requirements like financial stability, adequate capacity and fair pricing. •Supply Chain Management - encompasses the planning and management of all activities involved in sourcing and procurement, conversion and logistic management activities. •Tier one, tier two, and tier three suppliers: •Tier 1 - direct suppliers to fashion brand company; a factory that manufactures apparel and accessory products. •Tier 2 - suppliers to tier 1 suppliers; textile mills, zipper and button producers •Tier 3 - suppliers to tier 2 suppliers; yarn suppliers, fabric print or dye producers, producers of plastics and metals for zippers or buttons, farms for sheep (wool) or cotton. •Vertical integration; Zara; Single ownership of the companies within the supply chain allows for full control of availability and quality. Many companies now are "acting vertically" to take as much control as can. •Contractors - factories owned and operated by other companies. • Full-package contractors - offer design, pattern making and manufacturing services to fashion brands. •Subcontractors - hired by contractors to complete orders or perform specific tasks; embroidery; further complicates supply chain.