Final Textiles

Cotton count

# of 840 yard hanks per pound

purposes of singeing, sizing, desizing, scouring, mercerization, ammoniating, and tentering.

-Desizing: Sizing on warp removed by physical agitation or chemical (enzyme or acid). -Singeing: Burn off fiber ends to minimize pilling and give smoother fabric surface. -Scouring: More rigorous process than cleaning; removes soil and foreign matter before dyeing and special finishing. -Mercerization: Sodium hydroxide improves dye affinity of cotton, lyocell, flax & HWM rayon; and increases strength, luster, & absorbency. -Ammoniating finish: Alternate for mercerization for cellulosic fabrics; lower cost; less polluting; less effective for dyeing. -Tentering: Straightens and dries fabric; held between pins or clips, heated in oven; impact on fabric grain.

What fiber properties are influenced by fiber size?

1) Soft, pliable 2) light weight 3) high strength 4) Less durability 5) more surface area

Fiber spinning (Three general steps):

1) Prepare viscous dope or melt 2) Extrude dope through spinneret to form fiber 3) Solidify fiber by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling

3 Fiber spinning methods:

1) Wet spinning: Polymer solution is spun into chemical bath and fibers are coagulated 2) Dry spinning: Polymer solution is spun into warm air and fibers solidifies with the evaporation of the solvent 3) Melt spinning: Polymer melt is spun into cool air and solidifies

How does fiber physical structure influence fabric properties?

1) cross sectional shape: Affects luster, bulk body, texture and hand. 2) Surface contour: Describes the outer surface of the fiber along its length. May be smooth, serrated, striated or rough, and affects luster, hand, texture, and apparent soiling of the fabric. 3) Crimp: Refers to the waves, bends, twists, coils, or curls along the length of the fiber. Fiber crimp increases cohesiveness, resiliency, resistance to abrasion, stretch, bulk, and warmth.

7 Components in serviceability

1. Aesthetics: Attractiveness or appearance of a textile product. 2. Durability: How a product withstands use; length of time the product is suitable for the use for which it was purchased. 3. Appearance retention: How the product maintains its original appearance during use and care. 4. Comfort & safety: How a textile product affects heat, air, and moisture transfer, interaction of body and textile product; its ability to protect the body. 5. Care: Treatment required to maintain a textile product's original appearance. 6. Environmental impact: Effect on environment from production, use, care, and disposal of textiles and textile products. 7. Cost: Amount paid to acquire, use, maintain, and dispose of product.

Physical Structure

1. Length of fiber 1.) Filament: Long, continuous fiber 2.) Staple fibers: Short (2-46 cm or 3⁄4 -18 inches) 2. Diameter: Affects fabric performance and hand. 3. Cross-section shape: affects luster, bulk, body,texture, and hand, etc. 4. Surface contour: Describes outer surface of the fiber along its length, i.e. smooth, rough, serrated, etc. 5. Crimp: The three-dimensional shape of the fiber 6. Fiber parts: Complex for natural fibers; simple for manufactured fibers -for natural fibers except silk, three parts 1) cuticle 2) inner area 3) central core

Durability properties

1.) Abrasion resistance: Ability to withstand rubbing and folding 2.) Flexibility: Ability to bend repeatedly without breaking. 3.) Tenacity: Ability to withstand a heavy pulling force 4.) Elongation: Ability to stretch without breaking 5.) Pilling: The formation of balls of fibers on the fabric surface.

Comfort properties

1.) Absorbency: Ability to take in moisture 2.) Wicking: The ability of fiber to transfer moisture along its surface 3.) Heat or thermal retention: Ability to hold heat 4.) Heat sensitivity: Fiber's reaction to heat 5.) Density or specific gravity: Measure of fiber weight per unit volume.

Three types of bulk yarns:

1.) Bulky yarns: Formed from inherently bulky manufactured fibers 2.) Textured Yarns: Filament or spun yarns with notably greater apparent volume than a conventional yarn. 3.) Stretch yarns: Thermoplastic filament or spun yarns with a high degree of potential elastic stretch, rapid recovery, and a high degree of yarn curl.

Purpose of yarn blending

1.) Combine different fibers to get better combination of characteristics in product; achieve characteristics that are combinations of the fibers in the blend. 2.) Improve processing and uniformity. 3.) Obtain better hand, texture, and appearance. 4.) Cost efficiency. 5.) Obtain cross-doable effects

What are the common modifications in synthetic fibers?

1.) Fiber shape, size & weight: Shape: spinneret Size: spinneret; bicomponent fibers; unconventional spinning methods 2.) Low-pilling fibers: Less strong fibers, lower molecular weight 3.) High-tenacity fibers: Drawing/stretching; longer molecular chain polymer 4.) Low-elongation fibers 5.) Flame retardant fibers

purpose of adding combing process in making cotton spun yarns:

1.) Finer yarn 2.) Increased sheen 3.) Better drape 4.) Softer hand

How is fabric quality graded?

1.) Freedom of defects 2.) Uniformity of structure and appearance 3.) Performance during production and use 4.) Visual or machine inspection 5.)Evaluation base on end uses

Characteristics of better quality knit

1.) Good weight for fabric type 2.) Well suited for end use 3.) Free of defects 4.) Have good performance potential

Identification of synthetic fibers.

1.) In this group, fibers have no unique visible characteristics under microscope. 2.) Burn tests are not suitable for most synthetic fibers. 3.) Only reliable test is solubility.

Aesthetic Properties

1.) Luster: Sheen caused by light reflected from a fiber's surface. 2.) Drape: The manner in which a fabric hangs over a form. 3.) Texture: Nature of a textile's surface. 4.) Hand: How a textile feels to the touch. 5.) Cover: The ability of a fiber to conceal or protect.

Understand the types of cotton according to farming methods. (organic, transition, conventional)

1.) Organic cotton: Produced following state fiber certification standards on land where organic farming practices have been used for at least 3 years. 2.) Transition cotton: Produced on land where organic farming is practiced for less than the three year minimum. 3.) Conventional cotton: Describes cotton grown and processed by regular mainstream practices.

3 Regenerated Fibers

1.) Rayon 2.) Acetate 3.) Lyocell

How to identify rayon, lyocell, and acetate?

1.) Rayon: viscose- serrated X-section and lengthwise striations HMW- rounded X-section 2.) Lyocell: Rounded cross section, smoother longitudinal appearance. 3.) Acetate: popcorn (lobular) shape, striations

Appearance retention properties

1.) Resiliency: Ability to return to original shape after bending, twisting, or crushing. 2.) Dimensional stability: Ability to retain given size and shape through use and care. 3.) Shrinkage resistance: Ability of fabric to retain given size through care or cleaning. 4.) Elasticity or elastic recovery: Ability of extended fiber, yarn, or fabric to return immediately to its original length.

What are the two common off-grain problems?

1.) Skewed fabric: Filling yarns are not at a right angle across fabric 2.) Bowed fabric: Fill-ing yarns do not cross all warp yarns at the same angle; from dip or curve

4 common fiber identification methods

1.) Visual Inspection -Fiber length -Luster -Body, texture or hand 2.) Microscopy: -longitudinal appearance -cross-sectional appearance 3.) Burn Test: -reaction to heat -manner of burning -smoke color and odor -type of residue 4.)Solubility tests

Types of Dobby weave fabrics

1.) bird's eye 2.) huck-a-back 3.) shirting madras 4.) waffle cloth

Types of jacquard weave fabrics

1.) damask 2.) brocade 3.) tapestry

Yarns

A continuous strand of textile fibers or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining to for a textile fabric.

Double cloth

A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different.

Fabric

A flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics, in any combination.

Differences between knit fabrics and woven fabrics

A knit fabric is made up of a single yarn or thread, while woven fabrics are comprised of multiple yarns. Knit fabrics will stretch easily along its width, while woven fabrics will have significantly less. Woven fabrics are also more likely to wrinkle and fray .

Define elastomers:

A natural or synthetic polymer which, at room temperature, can be stretched repeatedly to at least twice its original length and which, after removal of the tonsil load, will immediately and forcibly return to approximately its original length.

Textile

A term originally applied only to woven fabrics, NOW generally applied to fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products made of fibers, yarns, or fabrics.

The first heat sensitive (also called thermoplastic) regenerated fiber

Acetate

impact of amount of twists on yarns/fabric characteristics

Affects yarn strength, hairiness, comfort, cost and linting.

Yarn

An assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric.

Gray Goods

Any fabric that has not been finished.

Finish

Any process used to add color and enhance performance of textiles.

Fiber

Any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length-to-width ratio and with suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric; the smallest component, hair-like in nature, that can be separated from a fabric.

4 protective fibers:

Carbon, glass, metal, aramid

Understand the influences of fiber size and cross-section shape on fiber moisture management (Refer to the CoolMax® and Under Armour® examples).

Coolmax:Increased surface area for moisture management (wicking). Include hollow fibers for insulation

cross-sectional shape of natural fibers (cotton, flax, wool, and silk)

Cotton: flat, oval lumen, convolutions Flax: polygonal, lumen Wool: Oval to round, overlapping scales Silk: Triangular, rounded edges.

cross dyeing

Cross dyeing: Fibers of different dye receptivity for different colors

Manufactured Fiber:

Definition: Any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that at any point in the process is not a fiber. 1) Generic Name: Family of fibers with similar chemical composition 2) Trade names: Used for promotion and marketing

DPF

Denier per filament (dpf): Fiber size; e.g., 40 denier yarn/20 filaments= 2 dpf;

Denier

Denier: Weight, in grams, per 9,000 meters of fibers and yarns; when used to describe a fiber, denier refers to the fineness or coarseness of the fiber

Momme

Describes the weight of silk fabrics. One mom equals 3.75 grams. Silk fabrics are often graded for: 1) Degree of evenness 2) Fiber or yarn size 3) Freedom from defects

Product Development

Design and engineering of a product so that it has the desired serviceability characteristics, appeals to the target market, made within an acceptable time frame for a reasonable cost, and sold at a profit. Understanding customers and consumers Understanding product innovation Understanding product management Understanding textile materials

differences between direct print and discharge print

Direct print: Color applied directly to desired location. Discharge print: Piece dyed fabric with color removed by printing with bleach paste.

DIRECT and INDIRECT yarn numbering system

Direct system: Weight per unit length Indirect system: Length per unit weight

Satin weave

Each warp (filling) yarn floats over 4 filling (warp) yarns and interlaces with a fifth filling (warp) yarn with an interlacing progression by two to the left or the right. 4 up 1 down most common, 7 up 1 down

Twill weave

Each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacing by one to the left or right to form a distinct diagonal line (or wale); 2 up 2 down or 2 up 1 down most common

Jacquard weave

Each warp yarn is individually controlled; more than 25 arrangements warp needed to produce design, combines basic weaves (plain, twill, satin)

How are woven fabrics named?

Fabric names based fabric structure, weight, yarn type, balance, and finishes

examples of composite fabrics (Gore -Tex)

Gore tex, coated fabrics, tufted fabrics, quilted fabrics, laminated fabrics

BCF yarns

Greater covering power or apparent volume compared to smooth filament yarn

Why is silk considered the standards for appearance for many manufactured fibers?

Has combination of properties not possessed by any other fiber. It has a dry tactile hand, unique natural luster, good moisture absorption, lively suppleness and draping qualities, and high strength. Other Manufactured fibers attempt to duplicate the physical nature of silk but only those that come close are those with a triangular cross section and fine size.

How does yarn count/ density and balance affect fabric properties?

High count: firm, good covered body, compact, stable, rigid, drape, winding water-repellent, less edge raveling Low count: Flexible, pliable, permeable, softer drape, more edges raveling Balanced: Less seam slippage, warp and weft more even

Course

Horizontal row of stitches

Why are most wool products dry clean only?

If wool is put in the washing machine, the product will shrink. Protein fibers cling tightly together when put in the wash. Also, enzymes in laundry detergent break down wool.

Blend

Intimate mixture of different fibers in one yarn. Used to get better combination of characteristics in product. Obtain better hand, texture, and appearance.

Dobby weave

Less than 25 different warp yarn arrangements to create small all-overpatterns

Stitches (loops)

Loops made by needles

Know the production methods of rayon, lyocell and acetate

Lyocell: wet spinning; properties are more like cotton than rayon Rayon: wet spinning Acetate: dry spinning

Fancy weave

Made by changing the interlacing pattern between the design area and the background

Filament yarns

Made from filament fibers

Spun Yarns

Made from staple fibers

Performance

Manner in which a textile, textile component, or textile product responds when something is done to it or when it is exposed to some elements in the environment that might adversely affect the textile.

Serviceability

Measure of a textile's ability to meet consumers' needs.

What are yarn hairiness and neps?

Neps: Small knot of entangled fibers; assessed to minimize problems with dyeing and finishing. Hairiness: Excessive fiber ends on yarn surface; more sensitive to abrasion and pilling; assessed to minimize problems with fabrication and performance.

Cut/gauge

Number of needles per inch. The higher the number, the finer the knit.

Mixture

One type of yarn used in one fabric place and another type used in another fabric place.

Differences between pigments and dyes

Pigment: Insoluble inorganic compound glued or bonded onto fiber surface; no firm affinity for fibers. Easier to match colors with pigments than with dyes. Dyes: Organic compound that is water or other carrier solluble, has good affinity for fibers. High color strength

Fabric

Planar structure pliable enough to be made into three-dimensional products

Float

Point where a yarn crosses evermore than one yarn at a time.

Interlacing

Point where yarn changes its position from fabric's surface to its underside or vice versa.

Grain

Position of warp yarn relative to filling yarns

Fabrication

Process of forming fabric from starting materials

Compare ring spinning, rotor/open end spinning, and air jet spinning in terms of production rate, yarn strength, and range of yarn size that can be produced

Production rate: 1st- air jet 2nd- rotor 3rd- ring Yarn strength: 1st- ring 2nd- air jet 3rd- rotor Range of yarn size: 1st- air jet 2nd- ring 3rd- rotor

Citing serviceability concept, explain the pros and cons of cotton for making t-shirts

Pros: Many options for appearance, decently strong, comfortable, Cons: Not ideal for working out, can be damaged by acids and bleaches, shrinks/sags with use, oxidized by sunlight

3 pinning methods:

Ring spinning, rotor/open end spinning, and air jet spinning

3 elastomeric fibers:

Rubber, spandex, lastol

Difference between satin and sateen

Satin: Made of filament yarns; almost always warp-faced Sateen: Made of spun yarns; may be mercerized and printed

Full Fashioning

Shaping garment parts by adding or decreasing wales via loop transfer; done at necklines, armholes, collar points; expensive; slow

Define single, ply, and cord yarns:

Single yarn: The simplest strand of textile material suitable for operations such as weaving, knitting, etc. Ply yarn: A yarn formed by twisting together two or more single yarns. Cord yarn: A yarn formed by twisting together two or more plied yarns.

Tex

Tex: Weight, in grams, per 1,000 meters of fibers and yarns;

Knitting

The formation of a fabric by inter-looping of one or more yarn sets

Twist:

The spiral arrangement of fibers around the yarn's axis. s or z

Pile weave

Three-dimensional woven fabric made with an additional warp or filling yarn set that creates the pile.

Differences between true double cloth, double weave cloth, and double faced fabric

True double cloth:5 sets of yarn Double weave cloth: 4 sets of yarn Double faced fabric: 3 sets of yarn

Woven Fabric

Two or more yarns interlaced at right angle (90 degree)

Duppioni silk

Two silkworms spin cocoon together; thick and thin appearance; China

union dyeing

Union dyeing: Fibers of different dye receptivity for uniform color

Wale

Vertical column of stitches; each needle forms a wale

main differences between filling/weft knits and warp knits

Warp knitting: yarn moves vertically in the fabric Filling or weft knitting: yarn moves horizontally (back and forth) or around the fabric

difference between woolen yarn and worsted yarn

Woolen system: Wool fibers; soft, bulky, fuzzy yarns. Worsted system: Wool fibers; more even fiber distribution and more parallel; compact, smooth, strong yarns.

filling/weft knitting

Yarn moves horizontally (back and forth) or around the fabric

Warp knitting

Yarn moves vertically in the fabric

Plain Weave

Yarns at right angles pass over and under each other

finish

any process done to fiber, yarn, or fabric either before or after fabrication to change the appearance, hand, and performance.

cpi

course per inch

What is the spinning method for polyester.

melt spinning

If you are asked to design a three-layer water proof and wind proof coat, what materials will you use for each layer and why.

polyester out, goretex middle, cotton inner

major problems for knit fabrics

snagging, sagging, skewing and running

Standard Test Methods

specified procedures developed to determine fiber, yarn, fabric and other textile product properties. (e.g., ASTM, AATCC)

two major warp knit fabrics

tricot and raschel

wpi

wales per inch