History of Dress Exam 2
a coat worn over armor that displayed family crests
a tabard
petticoats
are undergarments today but were a visible part of the outer garments in the 16th century
style that predominated from the end of the 16th century to the middle of the 18th century
baroque style
A skirted extension of men's jackets, either attached or a separate garment are:
bases
the extension of bodice below the waistline
basque
Venice, Italy maintained their own style of dress
bleached, blonde hair, high, platform shoes, hair arranged in two horns
a pad worn around the waist to hold out wide skirts
bum roll
Italian Renaissance undergarments are called
camicia
An extension from the end of the trunk hose to the knee
canions
high, platform-soled shoes
chopines
The Puritans who settled in Massachusetts in the 1600s wore restrained and simple styles, but did not wear
clothing that was radically different in other respects from the clothing of other English people of their time.
separate hose are gradually replaced by joined hose that have a pouch at the front called a
codpiece
sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape-like over the shoulder, with a high, standing collar behind the head
conch
the tunic became a
cotehardie
Third Phase
doublets and peascod belly
what were braises in the medieval periods
drawers
bourrelet
element of a headdress padded, crownlike roll worn on top of the head
dagging
element of headdress edges of a garments were cut into pointed or squared scallops
Baroque Style
emphasized lavish ornamentation, free and flowing lines, and flat and curved forms
a flat collar
falling band
The Northern Renaissance - end of 16th century
fashions became grotesque, distorted, pinched, and padded
jewel on the forehead
ferronine
patterns
footwear raised wooden platforms, fastened over the shoe
a narrower fillet was worn over a net called a
fret
Trunk hose also referred to as "slops"
galligaskins
Flat-soled overshoe with a toe cap that fits over other shoes to protect them in bad weather
galosh
Necklines tended to be square, ribbons decorated insets for the fronts of bodices
stomachers
support for a ruff
supportasse
The first effects of the Industrial Revolution were felt in the
textile industry
The availability and interests in cotton fabric in the 17th and 18th centuries were a result of
the expansion of trade with India
Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because
the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.
what skill did tailors develop that allowed them to refine garment designs
the making of buttoned closures and sleeves
Things from the Renaissance used in the present day
the plays of William Shakespeare, patterns and styles in textile fabric, gunpowder, furniture styles
Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the Orient during the Renaissance is to be seen in
the popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women and the designs in some woven Italian textiles
chemise
undergarment loose-fitted linen garment very close to the skin
characteristics of women's clothing in during the italian renaissance
use of opulent fabrics gave garments a straight cut and decorative effects were achieved by manipulating fabrics
Skills for making lace developed rapidly in the 16th century
used as trimming for neck ruffs, collars, and cuffs
Brocade and velvet fabrics are now being produced in _________
Italy
_______ became the textile source for most of the rest of Europe
Italy
weaving mills arose in
Italy and Sicily
from 1720-1770, supplanted the Baroque
Rococo style
During the 14th and 15th centuries styles for men and women began to change much more rapidly than had been the case in earlier centuries
True
Late middle ages ideals of feminine beauty
-removal of all hair and a delicate pallor -improvements to personal appearance
Crusaders brought back new ideas ans goods;
-rich brocades from Sicily and Italy -Fur from the Balkans -Silken materials from the East
Second Phase
-strong German influence -knitting machines invented -bombast
identify three specific examples of spanish influence that your book mentions
1. bodices 2. black work (black embroidery on white cloth) 3. v-shaped waistlines
Italian influences in styles were brought to France by
Catherine de Medici married Henry II and the Frenhc invaded Italy
spanish term for the french farthingale
Guardinfante
Fashion in men's hairdressing
Lovelock
the political preferences of the two factions in the English war of the 1600s were reflected in their dress, the differences being
The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabric, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long curling hair, while the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple unadorned clothing in somber colors.
a gown =
a cote
bowl crop
a man's headdress gives the appearance of an inverted bowl on top of the head
girdles
accessory belts worn by women
houppelande
an outer garment worn by men or women originated as a man's house coat worn over the pourpoint, garment fitted over the shoulder, then widened below into deep, tubular folds or pleats, which were held in place by a belt
Spanish women retained wide farthingale-like skirts called
guardinfante
a garment worn by both men and women, made with full funnel-shaped sleeves
houppelande
what helped to spread fashion from one region of europe to another
intermarriage among members of royal families
Spain became a major influence in both politics and fashions in the 16th century because
it gained enormous wealth as a result of Columbus' voyage to the New World
First Phase
jackets were worn with wide skirts called bases
Term used interchangeably with jacket
jerkin
page boy
man's headdress longer style, faces were clean shaven
a veil worn to cover the hair in spain
mantilla
Late middle ages items of dress
mantles, veils, turbans
A style of women's dress that was cut in one length from the shoulder to the hem.
mantua
jacket
men's outer garment vertical pleats in front and back, outermost garment
The use of sections of different colored fabrics in one garment was called a
mi-parti or parti-color
The final phase of the 18th Century was marked by a revival of interest in classical styles
neo-classic
Devices used in the 17th century to have a well-groomed appearance
o Artificial eyebrows made of mouse skin. o Lead combs to darken the eyebrows o Ball of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance. o Patches to cover skin blemishes.
Methods of communicating fashion information to consumers of the 18th C. included
o Engraved drawings of fashion o Fashion dolls dressed in the latest styles o Advertisements from firms selling fashion items
middle class women owned ____ set (s) of clothing
one
term for double in england
paltock
A backless shoe
pantofle
lappet
part of a garment a decorative flap, fold, or hanging part of a headdress or garment
codpiece
part of a garment a patch of fabric sewn into the crotch of a garment
plast
part of a garment front of the garment, also called plastron or placard
Small balls of wax to give the face a fashionably rounded shape
plumpers
Perfume placed in a decorated, perforated box shaped like an apple
pomander ball
close-fitting, sleeveless garment with a padded front originated as military dress
pourpoint
originated as military dress, attached to hose with strings, had a padded front. Was made either with or without sleeves
pourpoint
The Renaissance is a French word meaning _______
rebirth
outermost gown for women that fits at the shoulder and falls loosely to the floor
ropa
Italian Renaissance styles for men
shoes never became as pointed and men did not adopt the bowl crop
The customary dress for small boys in the 17th century that was worn between the ages of
three and six years originated in the dress of adult men during the Middle Ages
women engaged in the seduction game
tight lacing and outlandish hairstyles
men engaged in the seduction game
very short jackets, tights, pointed toed shoes
simpler than petticoat breeches, knee-length and covered the breeches
vest
In the last decades of the century, men's styles included white shirts worn with long cravats, sleeved vests
waistcoats
caul
woman's headdress caplike netting covered the head and extended at sides to cover/support two coils of hair
hennin
women's headdress tall, exaggerated, steeple-shaped headdress
roc
women's outer garment loose fitting gown, bodice was cut with a round neckline
the Renaissance grew out of a interest in the
writings and art of classical antiquity