History of Dress Exam 2

a coat worn over armor that displayed family crests

a tabard

petticoats

are undergarments today but were a visible part of the outer garments in the 16th century

style that predominated from the end of the 16th century to the middle of the 18th century

baroque style

A skirted extension of men's jackets, either attached or a separate garment are:

bases

the extension of bodice below the waistline

basque

Venice, Italy maintained their own style of dress

bleached, blonde hair, high, platform shoes, hair arranged in two horns

a pad worn around the waist to hold out wide skirts

bum roll

Italian Renaissance undergarments are called

camicia

An extension from the end of the trunk hose to the knee

canions

high, platform-soled shoes

chopines

The Puritans who settled in Massachusetts in the 1600s wore restrained and simple styles, but did not wear

clothing that was radically different in other respects from the clothing of other English people of their time.

separate hose are gradually replaced by joined hose that have a pouch at the front called a

codpiece

sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape-like over the shoulder, with a high, standing collar behind the head

conch

the tunic became a

cotehardie

Third Phase

doublets and peascod belly

what were braises in the medieval periods

drawers

bourrelet

element of a headdress padded, crownlike roll worn on top of the head

dagging

element of headdress edges of a garments were cut into pointed or squared scallops

Baroque Style

emphasized lavish ornamentation, free and flowing lines, and flat and curved forms

a flat collar

falling band

The Northern Renaissance - end of 16th century

fashions became grotesque, distorted, pinched, and padded

jewel on the forehead

ferronine

patterns

footwear raised wooden platforms, fastened over the shoe

a narrower fillet was worn over a net called a

fret

Trunk hose also referred to as "slops"

galligaskins

Flat-soled overshoe with a toe cap that fits over other shoes to protect them in bad weather

galosh

Necklines tended to be square, ribbons decorated insets for the fronts of bodices

stomachers

support for a ruff

supportasse

The first effects of the Industrial Revolution were felt in the

textile industry

The availability and interests in cotton fabric in the 17th and 18th centuries were a result of

the expansion of trade with India

Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because

the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.

what skill did tailors develop that allowed them to refine garment designs

the making of buttoned closures and sleeves

Things from the Renaissance used in the present day

the plays of William Shakespeare, patterns and styles in textile fabric, gunpowder, furniture styles

Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the Orient during the Renaissance is to be seen in

the popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women and the designs in some woven Italian textiles

chemise

undergarment loose-fitted linen garment very close to the skin

characteristics of women's clothing in during the italian renaissance

use of opulent fabrics gave garments a straight cut and decorative effects were achieved by manipulating fabrics

Skills for making lace developed rapidly in the 16th century

used as trimming for neck ruffs, collars, and cuffs

Brocade and velvet fabrics are now being produced in _________

Italy

_______ became the textile source for most of the rest of Europe

Italy

weaving mills arose in

Italy and Sicily

from 1720-1770, supplanted the Baroque

Rococo style

During the 14th and 15th centuries styles for men and women began to change much more rapidly than had been the case in earlier centuries

True

Late middle ages ideals of feminine beauty

-removal of all hair and a delicate pallor -improvements to personal appearance

Crusaders brought back new ideas ans goods;

-rich brocades from Sicily and Italy -Fur from the Balkans -Silken materials from the East

Second Phase

-strong German influence -knitting machines invented -bombast

identify three specific examples of spanish influence that your book mentions

1. bodices 2. black work (black embroidery on white cloth) 3. v-shaped waistlines

Italian influences in styles were brought to France by

Catherine de Medici married Henry II and the Frenhc invaded Italy

spanish term for the french farthingale

Guardinfante

Fashion in men's hairdressing

Lovelock

the political preferences of the two factions in the English war of the 1600s were reflected in their dress, the differences being

The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabric, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long curling hair, while the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple unadorned clothing in somber colors.

a gown =

a cote

bowl crop

a man's headdress gives the appearance of an inverted bowl on top of the head

girdles

accessory belts worn by women

houppelande

an outer garment worn by men or women originated as a man's house coat worn over the pourpoint, garment fitted over the shoulder, then widened below into deep, tubular folds or pleats, which were held in place by a belt

Spanish women retained wide farthingale-like skirts called

guardinfante

a garment worn by both men and women, made with full funnel-shaped sleeves

houppelande

what helped to spread fashion from one region of europe to another

intermarriage among members of royal families

Spain became a major influence in both politics and fashions in the 16th century because

it gained enormous wealth as a result of Columbus' voyage to the New World

First Phase

jackets were worn with wide skirts called bases

Term used interchangeably with jacket

jerkin

page boy

man's headdress longer style, faces were clean shaven

a veil worn to cover the hair in spain

mantilla

Late middle ages items of dress

mantles, veils, turbans

A style of women's dress that was cut in one length from the shoulder to the hem.

mantua

jacket

men's outer garment vertical pleats in front and back, outermost garment

The use of sections of different colored fabrics in one garment was called a

mi-parti or parti-color

The final phase of the 18th Century was marked by a revival of interest in classical styles

neo-classic

Devices used in the 17th century to have a well-groomed appearance

o Artificial eyebrows made of mouse skin. o Lead combs to darken the eyebrows o Ball of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance. o Patches to cover skin blemishes.

Methods of communicating fashion information to consumers of the 18th C. included

o Engraved drawings of fashion o Fashion dolls dressed in the latest styles o Advertisements from firms selling fashion items

middle class women owned ____ set (s) of clothing

one

term for double in england

paltock

A backless shoe

pantofle

lappet

part of a garment a decorative flap, fold, or hanging part of a headdress or garment

codpiece

part of a garment a patch of fabric sewn into the crotch of a garment

plast

part of a garment front of the garment, also called plastron or placard

Small balls of wax to give the face a fashionably rounded shape

plumpers

Perfume placed in a decorated, perforated box shaped like an apple

pomander ball

close-fitting, sleeveless garment with a padded front originated as military dress

pourpoint

originated as military dress, attached to hose with strings, had a padded front. Was made either with or without sleeves

pourpoint

The Renaissance is a French word meaning _______

rebirth

outermost gown for women that fits at the shoulder and falls loosely to the floor

ropa

Italian Renaissance styles for men

shoes never became as pointed and men did not adopt the bowl crop

The customary dress for small boys in the 17th century that was worn between the ages of

three and six years originated in the dress of adult men during the Middle Ages

women engaged in the seduction game

tight lacing and outlandish hairstyles

men engaged in the seduction game

very short jackets, tights, pointed toed shoes

simpler than petticoat breeches, knee-length and covered the breeches

vest

In the last decades of the century, men's styles included white shirts worn with long cravats, sleeved vests

waistcoats

caul

woman's headdress caplike netting covered the head and extended at sides to cover/support two coils of hair

hennin

women's headdress tall, exaggerated, steeple-shaped headdress

roc

women's outer garment loose fitting gown, bodice was cut with a round neckline

the Renaissance grew out of a interest in the

writings and art of classical antiquity