Skills (Hunting)

percussion lock

(also called "caplock") replaced the flintlock in the early 1800s. Early percussion locks used priming compounds inside a metallic foil cap placed over the vent hole. When the hammer strikes the cap, the resulting spark ignites the main charge.

gunpowder

A chemical mixture that burns rapidly and converts to an expanding gas when ignited. Modern smokeless powder will burn slowly when ignited in the open (outside of the case). Black powder is less stable and can be explosive when impacted or ignited in the open.

box trap

A land-only trap, it consists of a mesh box with a swinging door to let the animal in but not out. Cage traps should be used when the possibility of catching pets is high. However, they are difficult to conceal and may be avoided by some animals. Raccoon, skunk, opossum, fisher, or trapping near residential areas

wad

A seal and/or shot container made of paper or plastic separating the powder from the slug or shot in a shotshell. The wad prevents gas from escaping through the shot and holds the shot together as it passes through the barrel.

nock

A slotted plastic tip located on the rear end of the arrow that snaps onto the string and holds the arrow in position. There is a certain point on the bowstring, called the "nocking point," where arrows are nocked. Fine tuning of this location, by moving it up or down the bowstring, is usually required.

water set

A trap or snare that, when set, is completely or partially submerged by water

primer

An explosive chemical compound that ignites the gunpowder when struck by a firing pin. Primer may be placed either in the rim of the case (rimfire) or in the center of the base of the case (centerfire).

mechanical (expandable) blade broadhead

Blades are retracted close to the ferrule before the shot. Upon impact, the blades expand to expose the cutting edges. These are recommended for use only with bows rated 50 pounds or more because most require additional energy to open upon penetration.

cylinder choke

Cylinder choke is an unconstricted barrel. The shot string spreads quickly.

body-grip trap

Designed for a quick kill, this trap is made of frame wires that clamp the furbearer's body. Mink, beaver, muskrat

full choke

Full choke has tight constriction. The shot string holds together even longer, making this choke good for squirrels, turkey, and other game shot at 40-yard and longer ranges. Turkey hunters sometimes use Extra Full or Turkey choke for even denser patterns at long range.

improved cylinder choke

Improved Cylinder choke has a slight constriction. It allows the shot string to spread fairly quickly. This is a good choice for quail, rabbits, and other upland game at relatively close ranges.

trapping

Learn about the furbearers you plan to trap. Then you can place your trap line to limit the possibility of non-target catches. If you are using a box or foothold trap, be sure the pan tension is appropriate for the weight of the animal you plan to trap. Use the appropriate bait, lure, or other attractant to minimize the capture of non-target species. Species have selective needs for food. Bait should not be visible to prevent non-target species, such as hawks and owls, from being caught. Many states prohibit setting traps near large carcasses to attract animals and regulate the bait or attractant that can be used. Choose your trap location carefully. Avoid locations where the animal could get tangled in fences or other objects that could cause injury. Select a location that minimizes the chance that objects or debris will prevent the trap from functioning properly. Place traps away from well-traveled paths or residential areas. Remember that pets are not always on a leash.

crossbow

Like conventional bows, the crossbow is limited to short-range shooting. For most crossbows, 30-40 yards is the maximum range. Always unload your crossbow by firing it safely into a target or into the ground. Always practice these crossbow safety rules: Keep your fingers below the flight groove. Beware of objects around the bow's limbs. Never "dry fire" a crossbow. Keep the rail properly lubricated.

shotgun

Shotguns use many of the same actions as rifles—the pump action, semi-automatic action, and bolt action. They also use a break action as either a single barrel or double barrels. The double barrels can be arranged horizontally (side-by-side) or vertically (over-under).

modern bow

Shots are usually limited to 40 yards or less; and at this range, the arrow penetrates and can even pass through an animal. To ensure accuracy, most shots are taken at 15 yards

rifle

Single-shot rifles are usually break or bolt actions. Repeating rifles include the bolt-action, lever-action, pump-action, and semi-automatic types. Operating the lever, bolt, or forestock ejects the empty cartridge case, chambers a new round of ammunition, and cocks the gun.

bullet point

Steel point used for target shooting and small game hunting.

field point

Steel point used for target shooting and small game hunting.

bow and arrow

The Egyptians used bows shorter than a man's height, with arrows two feet long or more. Early bows were C-shaped. When shooting these bows, the archer would pull the string with a ring held around the thumb. The early longbow was 5-6 feet in length and was usually made of yew. The legend of Robin Hood romanticized the longbow. Native American Indians were America's first bowhunters. European settlers brought their skills to America and contributed to the development of bows and arrows in the U.S. In 1879, the National Archery Association was founded. It initiated the first U.S.-sponsored tournament in 1879. Bowhunting did not really take off until the 1950s and 1960s as hunters learned more about this sport and about newer bows that were being developed. Like other methods of hunting, the bowhunter first must acquire the knowledge and skills necessary to be a safe and responsible hunter.

head-on

The animal will certainly detect your movements with a head-on shot angle. Shot angle head-on Head-on shots rarely result in a clean kill and should not be taken by hunters using firearms or bows. Since the animal is looking directly at you, it can quickly turn, jump, or run and spoil the shot. Often the animal is only wounded, which ruins a lot of meat.

shaft

The long spine of the arrow. Modern arrow shafts are made of wood, fiberglass, aluminum, or carbon. The arrow, regardless of shaft material, must have the correct stiffness to match the bow for optimal accuracy. Every arrow has a degree of stiffness called spine, which is its resistance to bending. As an arrow is released, the shaft bends before straightening in flight. Incorrect stiffness will cause the arrow to fly erratically and inaccurately.

compound bow

The most popular bow for both hunting and target shooting A bow with many styles, but they work basically the same way; wheels and cables attached to the limbs make it easier to hold at full draw (pulled completely back) and able to propel an arrow faster than either a longbow or recurve bow

repeating firearm

The next advance, in 1835, was to arrange a series of percussion locks and barrels on a rotating wheel (cylinder) to allow a rapid succession of shots (Paterson revolver). With a single hammer and trigger, multiple shots can be fired without reloading—a repeating firearm. The percussion cap revolvers are the forerunners of modern revolvers.

fletching

The plastic vanes or feathers on an arrow. Fletching creates wind drag and also can cause the arrow to spin similar to a rifle bullet, providing stability and accuracy in flight. Fletching is made up of three or more vanes or feathers. One of the feathers will be a different color and is called the "cock" feather. The remaining feathers are referred to as the "hen" feathers.

arrowhead

The point of the arrow. Many different kinds of arrow points are available, each with a different purpose and advantage.

lands

The ridges of metal between the grooves in a rifled bore

grooves

The spiral cuts in a rifled bore

minutes-of-angle

The standard measurement unit of shooting accuracy; one minute-of-angle (MOA) is 1/60 of one degree, or approximately one inch, at 100 yards When adjusting peep or telescopic sights, the rear sights or dials are adjusted by a certain number of minutes-of-angle or "clicks" in a certain direction. Read the sight's instruction manual to see how much each click changes the sight at 100 yards. The rear sight is moved in the same direction you want your shot to move on the target. Moving shots from side to side is "adjusting for windage." Moving shots up or down is "adjusting for elevation." Specific instructions about trajectory and what fractions or inches you should be above the bull's-eye at 25, 50, or 100 yards are usually included on sight-in targets. You also might consult a ballistics chart or get help from an experienced shooter.

cable device

This device is less expensive, lighter in weight, and less likely to freeze in cold weather than other traps. A loop of cable encircling the animal gets smaller as the animal pulls and relaxes when the animal stops pulling. Coyote, red fox, gray fox, beaver

snare

This is a special type of trap that works as a quick-kill trap when used in a water set. It is less expensive, lighter in weight, and less likely to freeze in cold weather than other types of traps. Check the state's regulations for snares before using them. Limited by state's regulations

patterning a shotgun

To pattern your shotgun, follow these steps: Fire one shot at the center of the target (or bull's-eye) from the distance that you expect to be from your quarry (for example, 35 yards if hunting game birds). Repeat this two more times, each time with a new sheet of target paper. On each of the three targets, draw a 30-inch circle around the densest part of the shot pattern. (This is not necessarily the center of the paper.) On each of the three targets, count the number of pellet holes that fall within the 30-inch circle, marking them with the marker as you count each one. Calculate the percentage of the load that is expected to land in a 30-inch circle at the distance that you expect to be from your quarry. Average the pellet counts within the 30-inch circles (add the three counts from the previous step and divide the sum by three). Then divide the average pellet count by the number of pellets in the load for the ammunition you are using, and multiply this result by 100. The pattern should contain a sufficient percentage of the load, which should be at least 55% to 60%.

shotgun shooting

Unlike rifle firing, quick reflexes and flexibility are essential for effective shotgun shooting. Proper shotgun techniques will help you develop the rapid, fluid response you need to hit your target. Proper shotgun stance Use a relaxed, balanced stance with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight slightly forward on your left foot (if you're a right-handed shooter), and lean your body in the same direction. A shotgun is almost always shot at a moving target from a standing position. You must be able to swing freely over a wide arc and maintain control. That requires a relaxed, balanced stance. Stand with your feet spread about shoulder-width apart and your knees bent slightly so that you are balanced perfectly. Bring your left foot slightly forward (if you're a right-handed shooter), and lean your body in the same direction. The position of the feet is important. The toes of your forward foot should point at about 45 degrees toward the target. Take the time to place your feet properly, even for a quick shot. Keeping your knees slightly bent makes it easier to swing with a moving target. The bent leg to the rear supports the movements of your hips, allowing you to swing smoothly. Pointing a Shotgun Because targets usually appear suddenly and move quickly, there's no time to "aim" a shotgun. It's designed to be pointed, with the eye sighting along the top of the barrel or rib. The sight is usually a bead on the front of the gun. Your eye must be in line with the barrel, so it's important to position your head properly on the stock. When you bring the gun to your face, the stock should fit snugly against your cheek with your eye on that side above the centerline of the gun. If you can't assume that position comfortably, you may need to adjust the "gun fit." Hunter pointing shotgun Shouldering the Shotgun When you bring the shotgun to your shoulder, the stock should be brought to your cheek first and then back to your shoulder. A common error is lowering the head and cheek to the stock, instead of bringing the stock all the way up to the cheek. When done properly, with your head naturally erect, the gun butt always should come to the same spot on your shoulder. Pulling the Trigger Unlike rifle firing, quick trigger action is important when hunting with a shotgun. Slap or pull the trigger rather than squeezing it. Because the trigger is pulled quickly and the body and gun are typically in motion, breath control isn't necessary. Continue the shotgun's swing as you pull the trigger. Stopping the swing as you shoot will cause you to hit behind a moving target. The two most common methods of leading targets at long distances are swing-through and sustained lead. Leading the target with swing-through method Point your shotgun at a moving target and swing with it. Increase the speed of the gun so that the muzzle passes the target and then fire. In other words, literally "swing through" the target and fire at a blank space in front of the target. Swing-through is the best technique for the beginning student. This method is a little more challenging because it requires more experience. You estimate the length of the lead necessary to hit the target and maintain that lead as you swing with the target, fire, and continue the swing. Snap-shooting is a technique to use if you must make a quick shot and the target is straight ahead at close range. You simply raise the shotgun and point where you think the target will be when the shot arrives.

blunt point

Used for small game hunting and some types of target shooting; made of steel, hard rubber, or plastic.

firing pin

a pin that strikes the primer of the cartridge, causing ignition

sighting-in

a process of adjusting the sights to hit a target at a specific range. Deer hunters, for example, often sight-in their rifles to hit the bull's-eye at 100 yards. Typical bullet trajectory All rifles should be sighted-in before every hunt using the ammunition you plan to use, especially rifles with peep or telescopic sights. Guns you sighted-in prior to your last outing could have been knocked out of alignment by a single jolt. That misalignment could mean the difference between a successful hunt and a disappointing experience. Other than ensuring accurate shots, sighting-in a rifle has other advantages: Forces you to practice Helps determine problems with your shooting technique Builds confidence in your shooting ability

rib

a raised surface along the top of the barrel which serves as a sighting plane

slug

a solid projectile, usually of lead, used for hunting big game with a shotgun

bead

a visual indicator for pointing the shotgun

break-action rifle/handgun/shotgun

also hinge-action; The break-action firearm operates on the same principle as a door hinge. Simple to load and unload, a hinge action is often chosen as a hunter's first firearm. Break action firearms To open the action, point the barrel(s) at the ground. A release is pressed, and the stock drops downward. This allows the cartridges or shotshells to eject or to be removed manually if the firearm is loaded. Hinge-action firearms have a separate barrel for each shot rather than a magazine. Most models have one or two barrels, but some have up to four. Some models also have an exposed hammer(s), which can be dangerous.

percussion cap

also paved the way to the self-contained ammunition we have today—cartridges and shotshells. In the mid-1800s, gunpowder, the projectile, and the primer were put together into a single housing that could be loaded quickly.

longbow

also stick bow

cartridge

ammunition used in modern rifles and handguns; a case containing primer, gunpowder, and a bullet; manufacturer and gauge on end; shell length, powder dram equivalent, oz. of shot, and shot size on side

flintlock

appeared in the late 1600s. When the trigger is pulled, the hammer holding a piece of flint falls against a steel cover (the frizzen) sitting over the priming pan. The hammer knocks the cover out of the way, and the collision of flint and steel causes sparks that ignite the powder in the priming pan.

action bar

attaches the moveable forestock to the cocking/loading mechanism

chamber

base of the barrel used to hold the cartridge or shotshell ready for shooting

ammunition

case, gunpowder, primer, projectile, wad

semi-automatic pistol

components: muzzle; slide; trigger guard; trigger; barrel; sight; hammer; grip; magazine

matchlock

developed in the early 1400s. When the trigger is pulled, a lighted wick is lowered into a priming pan located next to a vent hole drilled into the closed end of the barrel. When the priming powder ignites, it lights the main charge.

in-line muzzleloader

either primer or a percussion cap is placed on the nipple or breech plug. An ignition system that is in direct alignment with the bore of the firearm causes the cap to ignite the black powder charge, and the gun fires.

forestock

front portion of the stock extending under the barrel in front of the receiver; usually held by the non-trigger hand to help support the firearm

semi-wad cutter

handgun; balances penetration and expansion

hollowpoint

handgun; designed for high expansion on impact

wad cutter

handgun; flat-ended; used for target shooting; creates clean hole in paper

roundnose lead

handgun; good penetration; little expansion

full metal jacket (handgun)

handgun; high penetration; no expansion

grip

handle of the handgun

bolt handle

handle used to open a bolt action

rimfire ammunition

has the primer contained in rim of ammunition casing; limited to low-pressure loads; not reloadable

broadside position

he preferred shot angle for both firearm and bow hunters for larger game animals, such as elk, deer, and bear. Firearm: The broadside position offers several excellent shots for a firearm hunter. The best target is the shoulder and chest area. A bullet of the correct weight fired from a firearm adequate for the game will break the shoulder bone and enter the lungs or heart. Bow: The broadside angle offers the best shot for the largest big game animals, such as elk, deer, and bear. For most big game, the aiming spot is straight up from the back side of the front leg, one-third of the way up from the bottom of the chest. An arrow will penetrate the ribs but not the shoulder bone; wait until the near leg is forward, and aim behind the shoulder.

bore

inside of the firearm barrel through which the projectile travels when fired

firearm

main components: action; stock; barrel sub-components: butt; stock; trigger guard; trigger; safety; bolt handle; bolt; magazine; chamber; forestock; barrel; sight; muzzle; bore; breach; firing pin; receiver; rib; bead; action bar; ejector rod; cylinder; hammer; grip; slide

receiver

metal housing for the working parts of the action

barrel

metal tube through which the projectile travels

bolt

movable metal block that seals a cartridge into the chamber on some actions

shot

multiple pellets fired through a shotgun barrel. Shot size is adaptable to the game being hunted. This type of projectile is used typically to hunt game birds and small game animals.

slide

part that moves back to load cartridges

hammer

part that strikes the primer to cause ignition

trigger guard

piece that surrounds the trigger to protect it from being squeezed or bumped accidentally

armguard

protects the inner part of the bow arm during release as the string snaps back. The armguard prevents the bowstring from hitting loose clothing and also helps protect the arm if an arrow breaks during release.

breach

rear end of the barrel

wheel lock

replaced the wick of the matchlock in the 1500s. When the trigger is pulled, a coiled spring forces the rough-edged steel wheel to spin against a piece of iron pyrite, creating sparks to ignite the powder in the priming pan.

full metal jacket (rifle)

rifle; maximum penetration without mushrooming; illegal for big game hunting in most states

rounded soft point

rifle; popular for low-velocity calibers; recommended for tubular magazines

rear-end

should not be taken by hunters using firearms or bows.

trigger

small lever that is squeezed to start the firing process

cylinder

storage for ammunition in a revolver; the cylinder rotates as the action is cocked

load

the amount of gunpowder in the cartridge or shotshell together with the weight of the bullet or shot charge

case

the container that holds all the other ammunition components together. It's usually made of brass, steel, copper, paper, or plastic.

choke

the degree of narrowing at the muzzle end of the shotgun barrel

muzzle

the end of the barrel through which the projectile (bullet or shot) exits

action

the moving parts that load, fire, and eject the shells or cartridges developed to allow shooters to load cartridges and shotshells at the rear, rather than the muzzle, end of the barrel.

stock

the part of a gun which is held, or braced, against the shooter's body; usually made of wood or a synthetic material

butt

the part of the stock that one holds against the shoulder when shooting

slot pattern

the spread of shot pellets after they hit a non-moving target

shot string

the three-dimensional spread of shot pellets after they leave the barrel

field carries

trail carry Leaves a hand free for balance, but don't use it when you're behind someone. Not recommended when walking in snow or brush—debris can get in the barrel. sling carry Easy carry for long treks through open country. Keep a hand on the sling when walking so that it doesn't slide off your shoulder if you trip. Not recommended for thick brush because the gun could be knocked from your shoulder. elbow carry Comfortable, but it has the least muzzle control. It also can snag in brushy terrain. Use it when no one is in front of you. ready carry Provides the best control, particularly in thick brush or weeds, or when you need to fire quickly. Do not use if someone is beside you. cradle carry Easy carry for long treks through open country. Keep a hand on the sling when walking so that it doesn't slide off your shoulder if you trip. Not recommended for thick brush because the gun could be knocked from your shoulder. shoulder carry Good choice when walking beside or behind others. Don't use it if someone is behind you.

centerfire ammunition

used for rifles, shotguns, and handguns; primer located in center of casing base; most reloadable

bolt-action rifle

components: butt; stock; trigger guard; trigger; safety; bolt handle; bolt; magazine; chamber; forestock; barrel; sight; muzzle A bolt-action firearm operates like opening and closing a door bolt. The bolt solidly locks into the breech, making it accurate and dependable. Bolt action rifle To open the action, lift the handle up and pull it to the rear. If the firearm is loaded, the cartridge or shotshell will be ejected as you pull the bolt to the rear. To make sure it's unloaded, open the action, and check both the chamber and the magazine for cartridges or shotshells. You can store a bolt-action firearm safely by storing the bolt separately from the firearm.

pump-action shotgun

components: butt; stock; trigger guard; trigger; safety; safety (alternate position); action bar; magazine (tubular); forestock; rib; barrel; bead; muzzle rear of shotgun barrel should be marked with gauge and length of barrel The pump-action firearm is fast and smooth. It allows the shooter to re-cock the firearm without taking his or her eye off the target. The pump action also is referred to as "slide action" or "trombone action." Pump action firearm To open the action, slide the forestock to the rear, which extracts the cartridge or shotshell from the chamber and ejects it. Sliding the forestock toward the muzzle closes the action and readies another cartridge or shell for loading. A pump-action firearm will open only after it's fired or if a release lever is pressed and the forestock is pulled to the rear. To make sure it's unloaded, open the action, and check both the chamber and the magazine for cartridges or shotshells.

double-action revolver

components: muzzle; sight; ejector rod; barrel; cylinder; trigger guard; trigger; hammer; grip

magazine

container on a repeating firearm that holds ammunition before it's loaded into the chamber; usually tubes or boxes attached to the receiver In repeating firearms, the magazine is the place that stores the ammunition that has not been fired. When you work the action, a cartridge is picked up from the magazine and placed in the chamber ready to be fired. Magazines are designed with a spring and follower that push against the cartridges to move them into the action. When checking a magazine to make sure it's empty, you must be able to either see or feel the follower; if you cannot see or feel the follower, there may be a cartridge jammed in the magazine, which can be dangerous. Tubular magazines require close attention to make sure a cartridge is not jammed in the magazine. Magazines may be detachable or fixed. Detachable magazines allow you to remove extra ammunition from the firearm simply by removing the magazine. These include box-type magazines. Fixed magazines require the ammunition to be removed manually from the gun itself. These include tubular, hinged-floorplate, and revolving magazines. tubular box-type hinged-floorplate

semi-automatic rifle/handgun

As each shot is fired manually, the case of the cartridge or shotshell is ejected automatically and the chamber is reloaded automatically. Semi-automatic action firearms To open the action, you must pull back the bolt's operating handle (on a rifle or shotgun) or the slide (on a pistol). Most semi-automatics, when the bolt or slide is pulled back, will lock in the open position if the magazine is empty. If the firearm does not lock open, it means that a cartridge or shotshell from the magazine has gone into the chamber, making the firearm ready to fire. A few semi-automatics do not lock open and must be held open to check the chamber. To unload, first remove the magazine and lock the action open. Then make sure it's unloaded—visually check the chamber for an additional cartridge or shell. When closing the action for loading, pull back to unlock the bolt or slide and then let go, allowing it to travel forward on its own. Do not guide it forward with your hand because it may not seat properly. On a semi-automatic, the trigger must be pulled each time a shot is fired. This makes the semi-automatic different from the fully automatic firearm, which fires continuously as long as the trigger is held down. The fully automatic firearm may not be used for hunting or sport shooting.

JUDO point

Designed with spring arms attached to catch in grass and leaves, preventing arrow loss; used for "stump" shooting and small game hunting.

firing positions

Firing Positions—Prone There are four standard rifle-firing positions: prone, standing, sitting, and kneeling. Prone The prone position is the steadiest of the four positions. Because it's the easiest to hold, it's the best position for mastering the fundamentals of firing—aiming, breath control, trigger squeeze, and follow through. Standing With neither arm supported, this is the most difficult position for firing an accurate shot. Rather than trying to hold the barrel steady, which is impossible, try to keep movement of the barrel to as small an area as possible. Smooth, natural motion will produce the best shot. Sitting Both arms are supported by your legs. Next to the prone position, this is the steadiest position. Kneeling With only one arm braced, the kneeling position is less steady than the prone and sitting positions.

fish point

Long, barbed or spring-loaded arrowhead that spears fish and secures them until landed with an attached line.

modified choke

Modified choke has moderate constriction. The pellets stay together longer, making the shot string denser and more useful at longer ranges. This choke is used often when dove hunting and when using steel shot to hunt for ducks or geese. There is also an Improved Modified choke that is slightly tighter than Modified.

recurve bow

Much like the longbow, but the limbs curve back away from the belly of the bow, which can provide more power in a shorter bow than the longbow A popular choice because it's smooth and quiet

parallax

Optical bending of telescopic crosshairs in relation to the target

lever-action rifle

The lever-action firearm has a large metal lever located behind the trigger. This handle usually forms the trigger guard as well. Lever action rifle To open the action, push the lever downward and forward, which extracts the cartridge case from the chamber and ejects it. If a magazine holds extra cartridges, another is immediately ready to be loaded into the chamber. It's often difficult to tell if a lever-action firearm is loaded. To unload, push the lever downward and forward repeatedly until no more cartridges are ejected. To make sure it's unloaded, open the action, and check both the chamber and the magazine for cartridges. Most models also have an exposed hammer, which can be dangerous. Always use extra caution to keep your hands away from the trigger while working the lever action.

projectile

The object(s) expelled from the barrel. A bullet is a projectile, usually containing lead, fired through a rifle or handgun barrel. A slug is a solid projectile, usually of lead, fired through a shotgun barrel. Shot is a group of lead, steel, tungsten alloy, or bismuth pellets fired through a shotgun barrel.

foothold trap

Used on land or in water, the trap holds an animal's foot and typically will cause little damage to the animal. The most common types are longspring and coilspring traps Coyote, red fox, gray fox

broadhead arrow point

Used primarily for big game hunting. The number of steel blades it contains may vary. The only arrowhead that may be used for big game hunting is the broadhead. It must be solidly built and always razor-sharp. Many states have laws governing the minimum diameter and number of cutting edges of the broadhead used to hunt big game. kill by cutting blood vessels, unlike the high-energy shock of bullets. Hemorrhage is typically the result. A responsible bowhunter will use razor-sharp broadheads and only take shots that allow a clear, close shot to the vital area of the game animal.

field dressing

avoid heat, moisture, and dirt Basic field dressing techniques help cool game by removing entrails, which lowers body heat by allowing air into the body cavity. As a rule, it's best to field dress immediately. Field dressing a deer When cooling the body, use available shade. Hang deer, if possible. For larger animals like deer, elk, and moose, you should prop the carcass open with a clean stick to allow air to circulate. In warm weather, it's helpful to place squirrels and doves in a cooler after dressing, as long as they remain dry. Dispose of entrails carefully. Don't leave them lying by the side of a road or near a residence where they can be dragged home by a dog. Keep meat clean by covering it with cheesecloth. This also protects it from flies, which lay eggs in exposed flesh. Rubbing meat with black pepper also will repel insects. If you have to drag the game to camp, try to keep dirt and debris out of the chest cavity. Because moisture damages meat, don't use excessive amounts of water to wash the cavity. Allow it to dry. If you plan to process the animal yourself, skin the animal as soon as possible to allow the carcass to cool. Finally, a sure way to ruin meat—as well as earn the disdain of non-hunters—is to tie the animal to the hood or roof of a car, where it's exposed to heat, exhaust fumes, road salt, and airborne dust. Black pepper to repel insects Cheesecloth bags for organs you plan to use as meat (heart, liver) Cooler and ice Disposable plastic gloves Blaze orange flagging Foil Gambrel and pulley system Hand towels Large bag for caped or trophy head Plastic bags for cleanup Plastic or cotton gloves Salt (noniodized) for hide care Wear plastic or latex gloves. If the animal is a male and your state allows it, remove the sex organs with a sharp knife. Otherwise, leave the sex organs attached to the carcass. Field dressing large game Between the hind legs, make a short cut down to the pelvic bone. (See figure 1.) Field dressing large game Slit the skin up to the breastbone. Peel back the skin and fur. (See figure 2.) With the knife blade up, start at the pelvic cut and cut through the muscle layer. As you go, pull the muscle layer up and away from the stomach and intestines to make sure they aren't punctured. Cut around the anus, and tie it off. Field dressing large game Cut the windpipe and esophagus at the upper neck. Grab the windpipe with both hands, and pull down hard. The entrails will pull free down to the midsection. (See figure 3.) Slice through the diaphragm on each side of the animal to free the intestines. With both hands, grab the entrails and pull down hard. All of the entrails should come out. Field dressing large game Cut through the seam in the pelvis where the bones grow together. (See figure 4.) Finish cleaning out the deer, and prop the carcass open to promote cooling. To drain any remaining blood out of the body cavity, hang the animal up for about 20 minutes or rest it on a slant. While the animal is draining, remove the skin. Because it's harder to move larger animals, you may need to skin and quarter the animal to pack it out, particularly in a remote area. If you're unable to hang the animal for skinning, begin by making a lengthwise cut and removing one side of the hide. Then turn the animal onto the skinned hide and skin the other side. To keep dirt off the meat, use the inside of the removed hide as a protective mat as you quarter the animal. Put each quarter in a game sack and attach the sacks to a backpack frame for the hike out. Wear plastic or latex gloves. Field dressing a rabbit If you want, skin the small game animal, such as a rabbit, before making the cut to remove the entrails (step 3). If you skin a rabbit, also remove the head, feet, and tail. (See figure 1.) Placing the blade at the anus, cut through the skin and pelvic bone. Cut up to the breastbone, placing a finger under the blade to avoid cutting any organs. Field dressing a rabbit Reach into the body cavity, and pull the esophagus and windpipe loose. (See figure 2.) Remove the entrails. Wipe out the cavity, and allow the carcass to cool.

ejector rod

metal rod used to help with removal of cartridges

instinctive aiming

more versatile than the bowsight method. You simply look at the intended target with both eyes open and release. You adjust the aim for different distances by instinct developed with practice. Instinctive aiming takes longer to perfect than the bowsight method, but it eliminates much of the guesswork from shooting under some hunting conditions.

mechanical release

snaps onto the string and is pulled back with the shooting hand. The archer pulls a trigger to release the string.

quartering-toward

when the animal is facing toward you, but at an angle. Since the animal is typically looking your way, it most likely will spot your movements. Shot angle: quartering-toward Firearm: The quartering-toward angle presents a clean shot to the vital organs. A shot can be taken at this angle if the gun is already trained on the animal. For an effective hit, aim at the front of the shoulder of the near front leg. Caution: A light bullet may deflect off the shoulder bones of large game, such as elk, deer, or large bears. Be certain to use a firearm and ammunition adequate for the game you hunt and the angle of shot you might select. Bow: This angle offers a poor shot opportunity and should not be taken. Heavy shoulder bones shield the majority of vital organs from broadhead-tipped arrow penetration. Also, bowhunters should never fire an arrow at an animal that is looking at them.

quartering-away

when your target is facing away from you, but at an angle. The animal is usually looking away from you. The quartering-away shot angle offers a good opportunity for a clean kill on antelope, white-tailed deer, mule deer, black bear, and other big game of similar size or smaller. Shot angle quartering-away Firearm: For firearm hunters, the quartering-away position offers several aiming spots on all big game. The area just behind the shoulder is the best aiming spot for direct penetration of the vital organs. Focus on hitting the chest area above the opposite front leg. Bow: The quartering-away shot angle offers a good opportunity for a clean kill on antelope, white-tailed deer, mule deer, black bear, and other big game of similar size or smaller. This is not a good shot for bowhunters on larger game because their massive stomachs and intestines will block a clean shot to the lungs or heart. The opposite front leg is a good reference point for aiming.

bow sight

work best when the distance to the target is known. For instance, when hunting from a tree stand or blind, you can measure the distance to the area where you expect the game to appear. Then it's a matter of lining up the appropriate sight pin on the target. In hunting situations where it's hard to know the exact distance to the target, bowsights may not work well. The key to using bowsights is to practice judging distances.

pointed soft point

rifle; high velocity, accurate bullets with a flat travel path (trajectory); excellent mushrooming

protected tip

rifle; highly accurate; excellent expansion

caliber

Caliber is used to describe the size of a rifle or handgun bore and the size of cartridges designed for different bores. Caliber usually is measured as the diameter of the bore from land to opposite land and is expressed in hundredths of an inch, thousandths of an inch, or millimeters. For example, a .270-caliber rifle bore measures 270/1000ths of an inch in diameter between the lands and has a larger bore diameter than a .223-caliber rifle. However, there is no standard established for designating caliber. In some cases, the caliber is given as the diameter of the bullet, which is the distance between the grooves. Caliber designations sometimes have a second number that has nothing to do with the diameter. For example, the popular .30-30 is a .30-caliber cartridge, but the second number is a holdover from the days when the cartridge took 30 grains of powder. The "06" in .30-06 refers to the year (1906) it became the official ammunition of the U.S. military. Every rifle or handgun is designed for a specific cartridge. The ammunition must match the data stamp on the firearm. For example, there are several .30-caliber firearms that use the same bullet size but are designed for different cartridges (the .30-30, .30-06, .308, and the .300 Savage). If you cannot find the caliber stamped on the firearm, take it to a qualified gunsmith.

storage

Firearms must be stored unloaded and in a locked location, separate from ammunition. The storage area should be cool, clean, and dry. Storing firearms in closed gun cases or scabbards isn't recommended because moisture can accumulate. Store guns horizontally, or with the muzzle pointing down. When guns are stored upright, gravity pulls gun oil downward into the action, which forms a sticky film. Oil also can drain onto the stock, softening the wood. Displaying guns in glass cabinets or wall racks is an invitation to thieves and curious children. Ideally, guns should be hidden from view and locked. Storage devices with hidden compartments are available. For the best protection against theft and fire damage, purchase a safe. Storing Firearms in the Home Safely Responsible hunters make certain the firearms in their home are not easily accessible to anyone who may not be trained in the safe handling of firearms. Always carefully and completely unload sporting firearms before bringing them into the home. Never load a sporting firearm in the home. Store firearms in your home in a secure location inaccessible to children. Store ammunition in a separate locked location, also away from children. Remember to place firearms in their proper storage location as soon as you return from a hunt or from practicing at the range. Always carefully check firearms to make sure that they are unloaded whenever you remove them from storage.

shooting

Good marksmanship is built on three fundamentals: Proper sight adjustment or patterning Proper shooting technique Practice Shooting From a Rest: When shooting in the field, the safest and most accurate shots are taken from a rest—a log, large rock, or other stable object. Don't rest the barrel directly on a hard surface, or the rifle will fire higher than normal—put some padding, such as a hat or a jacket, under the rifle. Breathing: Your breathing can move the rifle just enough to throw off your shot. When you're ready to fire, draw a deep breath, and exhale about half of it. Then hold your breath as you squeeze the trigger. Bear in mind that if you hold your breath too long, your heart beats faster, which increases your pulse and causes the rifle to move. If you notice this happening, take another breath and start over. At times the excitement of spotting game will make it more difficult to control your breathing. Try to relax and follow the correct procedure. Trigger Squeeze: Jerking the trigger or abruptly clenching the trigger hand can move the gun enough to cause a miss. To squeeze the trigger without jarring the gun, simply apply slow, steady pressure until the gun fires. Practice makes breath control and proper trigger squeeze habitual. Follow Through: After the bullet fires, it's important to continue the squeeze or follow through. That prevents you from jerking the gun before the bullet has left the barrel. Four Fundamentals for an Accurate Rifle Shot Aim carefully, aligning your sights. Take a deep breath, and then release about half of it. Squeeze the trigger slowly. Follow through. Point a shotgun. Pull the trigger. Aim a rifle. Squeeze the trigger.

handgun

Handguns fall into two basic types: revolvers (that fire from a revolving cylinder), and pistols (all other types, including auto-loading and single-shot handguns). There are two common types of action used in sport shooting. Single-action means that the gun must be manually cocked for each shot (revolvers) or for the first shot (autoloaders), usually by pulling back the hammer or cycling the slide. Double-action means that trigger movement cocks the action as the trigger is pulled during firing, but the gun can also be manually cocked like a single action. A gun which can be cocked only by trigger action (no manual cocking) is known by the term double-action-only. Single-action's manual cocking allows a shorter, lighter trigger pull that is an aid to accuracy; but an accidental light touch of the trigger will usually fire a cocked single-action gun if the safety is off. Double-action's trigger-cocking allows a faster shot, since no separate manual cocking is needed. A double-action gun's longer, heavier trigger pull is also considered safer. In fact, many double-action guns, especially revolvers, have no mechanical safety at all, since only a long, deliberate pull will fire the handgun.

tracking

It is a hunter's ethical responsibility to stop the hunt and search for any wounded animal. You should wait for at least a half-hour to an hour before trailing a deer, unless the downed deer is in sight. Make a practice of carefully observing every movement of a game animal after you shoot it. Investigate the ground and trail after shooting before assuming you missed. Once at the site of the shot, look for signs: Blood on the ground or vegetation Broken twigs or branches, or scattered leaves A "dew" line if early in the morning Tracks Hair, meat, or bone fragments Downhill trails, especially toward water If you lose a trail, search in a circular or grid pattern and try to pick up the trail again. Use fluorescent orange flagging to mark the blood trail in case darkness or weather forces you to quit the search and return the next day. Marking the blood trail also shows where to look for more signs if you lose the trail. Be sure to remove the orange flagging after use. Remember... A clean kill improves the flavor of game meat. A wounded animal that has to be chased down yields strong-flavored meat because waste products, produced by stress, accumulate in the flesh. A downed deer or other large animal should be approached carefully from above and behind the head. Hunter approaching a downed deer Remember... Approach downed game from above and behind the head; and wait a short distance away, watching for any rise and fall of the chest cavity. If the animal appears to be dead, wait a short distance away for a few minutes. Watch for any rise and fall of the chest cavity. Notice if the eyes are closed—the eyes of a dead animal are usually open. You can be certain that the animal is dead if the eye doesn't blink when touched with a stick. If the animal is still alive, it should be finished with a quick shot to the base of the ear. If you wish to mount the head, place your shot in the heart-lung area. For bowhunters, the only option is placing an arrow in the heart-lung area. Once the animal is dead, immediately tag it, indicating the date of kill. Then begin field dressing.

bow shooting

Stand at a right angle to the target with your feet approximately shoulder-width apart. The stance should feel comfortable and balanced. If you prefer, you may slide your front foot back a little, creating a slightly open stance. A nocked arrow should be positioned about a quarter inch above the arrow rest on the bow handle. On most bows, a small brass band called a "nocking point" is crimped onto the bowstring to mark the correct position. To nock the arrow: Grasp the arrow between the thumb and index finger of the right hand (if you're a right-handed shooter). With your left hand, hold the bow parallel to the ground about waist high, string toward the body. Lay the arrow shaft on the bow's arrow rest. Align the slot in the nock with the string, while making sure that the cock feather points up (while the bow is parallel to the ground). Pull the arrow back until the string snaps into the slot. To draw the bow: Grip the bow handle firmly in the left hand, but don't squeeze. With your bow arm straight, raise the bow to a point that your arm is parallel to the ground, while simultaneously drawing the string back to your "anchor point" with your shooting hand. The anchor point may be the corner of your mouth, your cheekbone, or your chin. Practice will help you determine your best anchor point—one that's both comfortable and provides the most accurate shooting. Your fingers should touch the same anchor point each time you draw the bow. Allow your fingers to slip quickly away from the string. This gives the arrow a straight, stable flight. Keep your bow arm pointed directly at the target after the release. If the bow is jerked on release, the arrow will fly off target. Follow through by leaving your drawing hand at the anchor point well after the string is released.

zone-of-fire

The area in which a hunter can shoot safely is referred to as a zone-of-fire. Before setting off in a group, hunters should agree on the zone-of-fire each person will cover. A zone-of-fire depends on many factors, including the hunter's shooting ability, the game being hunted, the hunting environment, and the hunting strategy being used. A hunter's zone-of-fire changes with every step. This is particularly true of groups hunting birds, rabbits, or other small game. For safety purposes, it's best to have no more than three hunters in a group. For new hunters, two is a safer number until they become familiar with maintaining a proper zone-of-fire. Remember... A hunter's zone-of-fire changes with every step. It's important to remain alert and aware of your companions' locations at all times. Hunters should be spaced 25 to 40 yards apart and always in sight of one another. Each hunter has a zone-of-fire which spans about 45 degrees directly in front of each hunter. (Some states require an adult to be immediately beside a youth hunter. In this case, the adult should be a supervisor only—not a hunter.) A way to visualize 45 degrees is to focus on a distant, fixed object that is straight out in front of you. Stretch your arms straight out from your sides. Make a fist with your thumbs held up. Gradually draw your arms in toward the front until both thumbs are in focus without moving your eyes. This will give you your outer boundaries.

handgun shooting

Use eye and ear protection. Assume a stable position. Grip the handgun with both hands. Do not cross the thumb of the supporting hand behind the slide of a semi-automatic. Body position and grip are vital to hitting the target. The hand position on the grip of a pistol is especially critical. Although the grip configuration of the revolver and semi-automatic are different, the gripping procedure is the same. Hold the handgun high on the grip so that the recoil is directed back to the hand and arm in a straight line. This allows better repeat shots and more accurate shooting. Use a two-handed hold whenever possible, applying pressure from front to rear. When hunting, use a tree trunk, steady limb, or other stable object as a rest. Placing some padding, such as a hat or a jacket, on top of a hard rest helps with your aim Sight Alignment Sight alignment, which is important in rifle firing, is even more important in pistol shooting because of the shorter distance between the sights. Typically, handgun sights consist of a square rear notch sight and a heavy square front blade sight. However, your eyes cannot focus on the target, front sight, and rear sight all at once. Therefore, your focus should be on the front sight only. Most handguns are initially sighted-in at 50 feet. Aiming a handgun Aiming At the shooting range, many handgunners use a sight picture that places the bull's-eye on the top of the front sight, rather than placing it in the sights over the center of the target. However, hunters should hold the alignment directly over the vital area. Scopes with long eye relief have become popular with handgunners and offer exact sighting for hunters. Scopes may take longer to align on a target than open sights, but they're usually more accurate. The first joint of the finger should take up trigger pressure, not the tip as is often done with rifles. When a revolver is fired, powder flashing at the front of the cylinder can cause burns. Be sure to keep your fingers away from the front of the trigger area. The slide and hammer of a semi-automatic gun can deliver a bruising blow when held too close to the body. All handguns should be fired at arm's length.

shotshell

ammunition used in modern shotguns; a case containing primer, gunpowder, wad, and a slug or shot The shotshells must match exactly the gauge and shell length specified by the manufacturer. This information usually is found on the barrel of the shotgun. Shotguns may be chambered for 2½-inch, 2¾-inch, 3-inch, or 3½-inch shells. This refers to the length of the shell after it has been fired. Never load a shotshell that exceeds the approved shell length stamped on the barrel of your shotgun.

sight

device used for aiming by aligning a front and rear sight sight is a device used to line up the muzzle with the shooter's eye so that he or she can hit the target. Sights are more critical on a firearm that fires a single projectile (rifle and handgun) than on a firearm that shoots a pattern of shot (shotgun). Shotguns usually have a simple pointing bead. Rifles typically have an open, aperture (peep), or telescopic sight. Most handguns have an open sight, although some specialized handguns have a dot or a telescopic sight. Bead Sight: Simple round bead set into the top of the barrel near the muzzle of a shotgun. Some shotguns have a second, smaller bead about halfway back on the barrel. The shooter uses the shotgun to "point" at and follow a moving object. The bead is used only for a reference as the shotgun is pointed and moved to follow flying or running targets. Bead sight Open Sight: Combination of a bead or post front sight and a notched rear sight. These sights are simple and inexpensive. Open sights allow quick sighting. To aim, you center the top of the bead or post within the notch of the rear sight and line up on the target. Open sights can be fixed or adjustable. Aperture (Peep) Sight: Combination of a bead or post front sight and a round hole set on the rifle's receiver close to the shooter's eye. To aim, you center the target in the rear peep or aperture sight and then bring the front sight into the center of the hole. An aperture sight lets you aim more accurately and is adjusted more easily than an open sight. Telescopic Sight (Scope): Small telescope mounted on your firearm. A scope gathers light, brightening the image and magnifying the target, and does away with aligning rear and front sights. The aiming device inside the scope is called the "reticle." To aim, you simply look through the scope and line up the crosshairs, post, or dot with your target. Telescopic sights provide the most accurate aiming, which makes them popular for hunting. Dot Sight: Small device mounted on your firearm. A dot sight uses electronics or optical fibers to project a glowing dot or other mark on a lens in front of the shooter's eye. Some dot sights also magnify like telescopic sights.

black powder

made of potassium nitrate (saltpeter), sulfur, and charcoal. When ignited, it causes a dense cloud of white smoke. It comes in four sizes or granulations. Fg: Coarse grain typically used in cannons, rifles larger than .75 caliber, and 10-gauge shotguns or larger FFg: Medium grain typically used in larger rifles between .50 and .75 caliber, 20-gauge to 12-gauge shotguns, and pistols larger than .50 caliber FFFg: Fine grain typically used in smaller rifles and pistols under .50 caliber and smaller shotguns FFFFg: Extra-fine grain typically used as a priming powder in flintlocks Pyrodex® and Clear Shot are black powder substitutes that can be used in amounts equal to black powder, but loading may vary. Be sure to get instructions from a qualified gunsmith for loading procedures. Substitutes are not recommended for use in flintlocks because they may not ignite from sparks as easily.

safety

mechanical device that blocks the trigger or hammer to help prevent accidental firing A safety is a device that blocks the action to prevent the firearm from shooting until the safety is released or pushed to the "off" position. The safety is intended to prevent the firearm from being fired accidentally. However, safeties should never be relied on totally to protect against accidental shooting. Safeties are mechanical devices and subject to mechanical failure from wear and other factors, and can fail when least expected. Also, safeties can be bumped from the safe position unknowingly as your firearm is being handled or as it catches on clothing or tree branches All safeties are located around the receiver of the firearm and are usually easy to spot. The red outlines indicate where safeties typically are located on rifles, shotguns, and handguns. Cross-Bolt Safety Common on pump and semi-automatic firearms A simple, push-button action that blocks the trigger or hammer Usually located at the trigger guard or ahead of the hammer Pivot Safety Common on handguns and bolt-action rifles A pivoting lever or tab that blocks the trigger or firing pin Located on the frame (blocks trigger) or on the bolt or slide (blocks firing pin) Slide or Tang Safety Common on some rifles and break-action shotguns A sliding bar or button that blocks the firing action Located on the tang (a metal strip behind the receiver) of break-action firearms or on the side of the receiver on some rifles Half-Cock or Hammer Safety Common on firearms with exposed hammers Positions the trigger at half-cock, away from the firing pin Engaged by placing the trigger at half-cock; some firearms automatically rebound to the half-cock position after the trigger is released While not a true safety, it sometimes is described as a mechanical safety device by firearm manufacturers

muzzleloader

most commonly rifles Three types of projectiles—the round ball, the bullet, and shot—are used in muzzleloaders. Most are melted and cast from pure lead. Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Do not lean over, stand in front of, or blow down the muzzle. Use only black powder or a safe substitute in a muzzleloading firearm. Wait until you're ready to fire before you prime or cap a muzzleloader. Always wear shooting glasses and ear protection when shooting a muzzleloader; a long-sleeved shirt is also advisable. Never smoke while shooting or loading or when near a powder horn or flask. Load a muzzleloader directly from a calibrated powder measure—do not load from a horn, flask, or other container. A loose spark or glowing ember in the barrel can cause the powder to explode. Load only one charge at a time. Unload a muzzleloader before bringing it into your home, camp, or vehicle. Stay with your charged muzzleloader at all times flint lock Measure powder charge. Pour measured powder down barrel. Place patch and ball on muzzle. Tap ball into barrel with starter. Take out ramrod. Ram ball down barrel. Be sure ball is completely seated. Clear vent hole with pick if necessary. On flintlock muzzleloader, pour powder into pan and close frizzen. On percussion lock muzzleloader, place cap on nipple. in-line Check for load and swab bore dry. Open breechblock to install cap/primer. Point in safe direction and close block. Clear channel by firing cap. Drop in powder or pellets. Place bullet in muzzle. Use starter to push bullet into muzzle. Use ramrod to seat bullet completely. Open breechblock. Install cap or primer. Close block and put on safe or fire.

gauge

term used to designate bore diameter of a shotgun; number of lead balls with diameters equal to the diameter of the bore that, when combined, weigh one pound Shotguns are classified by gauge, which is a measure related to the diameter of the smooth shotgun bore and the size of the shotshell designed for that bore. Common shotgun gauges are 10 gauge, 12 gauge, 16 gauge, 20 gauge, and 28 gauge. The smaller the gauge number, the larger the shotgun bore. Gauge is determined by the number of lead balls of size equal to the approximate diameter of the bore that it takes to weigh one pound. For example, it would take 12 lead balls with the same diameter as a 12-gauge shotgun bore to weigh one pound. Today, however, gauge can be measured much the same way as caliber by measuring the inside bore diameter. The .410-bore shotgun is the only exception to the gauge designation for shotguns. It has an actual bore diameter of 410/1000ths of an inch, which is approximately equivalent to a 67½ gauge. Each gauge of shotgun shoots only shells of the same gauge. For example, 12-gauge guns use only 12-gauge shells. The gauge of a shotgun is usually marked on the rear of the barrel, and the gauge of a shell is marked on the shell as well as on the factory box.