Sustainability Course 4 - Eco Design

Artificial Fibers

- Cellulosis - modal -cupro - acetate

environmental impacts

- Energy consumption CO2 GHG emissions Main greenhouse gases: CO2, Methane, end of life of product - in landfill - there will be methane emissions, azoprotodixide? Emission from fertilizer - Use of polluting and / or toxic chemicals - Water consumption and pollution Water consumption or pollution - Atrophisation? - when life in water is dead due to pollution - Biodiversity degradation, deforestation and soil pollution - Solid waste production - Animal welfare issues - Socio-economic and health issues

Better Linens

- Organic sector, e.g. Linportant - Linpossible100% relocation project in France (see spinning) - European fiber, 0% GMO, 0% irrigation, 0% waste, CSR criteria - 100% European from fiber to fabric / mesh Very natural, most is produced in europe so working conditions are quite good

NATURAL FIBERS PLANT-BASED ** read these slides

- conventional cotton - sustainable cotton - linen - bamboo

solutions for end of life

- faciliate - give a second life - ciruclate

use guidelines

- inform - direct - extend - repair - mobilize - advise - filter

sample brands that focus on eco-design

- kuyichi - see slides

synthetic fibers

- polyester - polyamide - spandex - acrylic

cons to eco design

- product added value - cost control - lower environmental impacts - anticipation of regulations and the market - competitive advantage

double entry approach

- product lifecycle -environmental impacts

Pros to Eco Design

- respect of the planet - sustainability - quality - health - well being/living environment - economy

key sourcing executive plans / key sustainable apparel sourcing topics

- sustainable materials - transparency and traceability - supplier relationships - purchasing practices - ecological footprint - circular economy - plastics and packaging - sustainability transformation

take-make-dispose model environmental and societal impacts

- total greenhouse gas emissions from textiles production, at 1.2 billion tons annually, are more than those of all international flights and maritime shipping combined .-hazardous substances affect the health of both textile workers and wearers of clothes, and they escape into the environment. -when washed, some garments release plastic microfibers, of which around half a million tons every year contribute to ocean pollution"

product lifecycle

1 - design 2- raw materials 3 - production 4 - logistics 5 - use 6 - end of life No arrow between end of life and design, only 1% of materials that are in loop of fashion cycle go back into production of new garment

Product Lifecycle in Practice

1 - design 2- raw materials PRIVILEGING RENEWABLE, RECYCLED AND BIOLOGICAL RESOURCES 3 - production LIMIT LOSSES, WASTE, HARMFUL SUBSTANCES AND ENERGY CONSUMPTION 4 - logistics OPTIMIZE PACKAGING REDUCE WEIGHT AND VOLUME 5 - use EXTEND USE AND LIMIT MICROPLASTICS SUSTAINABLE CLEANING 6 - end of life FACILITATE SORTING AND RECYCLABILITY

ACV = CYCLE DE VIE DU PRODUIT & IMPACTS ENVIRONNEMENT

1 - raw materials 2 - production 3 - transport & logistics 4 - commercialization 5 - utilization 6 - end of life **SEE SLIDE

Product Lifecycle Analysis

1- input inventory 2 - classification of environmental impacts 3 - standardization coefficient common equivalent 4 - weighting 5 - consolidated score

METHODOLOGYOF ECO-DESIGN

1.Identification of product / challenges for the company 2.Awareness of the project team 3.Environmental analysis (LCA) 4.Choice of actions on the development process : advantages, obstacles, means to implement feasibility, economic viability, environmental impact 1.Make eco-design effective 2.Comparative environmental analysis 3.Communicate **For production selection - focus on best sellers for a company instead of trying to do all products at once, some companies do all product at one

OF RESOURCES IS ALREADY LOST IN THE PRODUCTION PROCESS OF CLOTHING

12%

Recyc Leather

60 % L E AT H E R WA S T E , 3 0 % O F M AT E R I A L S O F N AT U R A L O R I G I N , 1 0 % WAT E R A N D S O LV E N T S

SUSTAINABLE IMPRESSIONS

Avoid prints, or that they are timeless -Favour inkjet or transfer printing -At worst silkscreen printing recycling dyestuffs

artificial leather alternatives

Based on PVC or PU, on a woven or knitted support, waterproof but not very resistant, offering many effects by coating, laminating, transfer, embossing, etc. : PVC remains the most damaging plastic for the planet (Greenpeace). PU is also a synthetic material containing carcinogens and mutagens for the immune system. Use water-based PU coatings such as Eco-Alter-Nappaor durable Eco Nylon made from recycled threads. Microfiberson polyester base - Micronappa - microsuede

cotton

Between the 6 countries that produce cotton - worst worker conditions - Uzbekistan (forced labor) and China Brazil, India - use of GMOs in cotton Cotton is a big user of pesticides There is huge environemntal impact for cotton

SILK grade

CHEMICALS - chemicals to dissolve and soften cocoons WATER - polluted water ANIMALS - worms boiled to death LABOR - 700,000 farmers in india

Leather grade

CHEMICALS - many that are very toxic - air pollution by solvents WATER - water pollution by solvents LAND - soil pollution -deforestation associated with animal husbandry WASTE - waste throughout the process ANIMAL - byproduct of animal husbandry without welfare regulations LABOR - danger to health of employees due to txoic chemicals - child labor - low wages - resistance to antibiotics in animal

Bamboo Grade

CHEMICALS - no fertilizers or pesticides WATER USAGE - 4x less than cotton LAND USAGE - danger of intensive explitation and deforestation WASTE - 0% LABOR - asset for the development of emerging countries

cotton environmental grade

CHEMICALS 16% of insecticides - 7% of pesticides WATER USAGE - 2/3 of total consumption of textile LAND USAGE - 2.5% of land - destruction of ecosystems - soil depletion LABOR - child labor - problematic working conditions 80% produced in china, india, pakistan, brazile, uzbekistan,

C02 Emissions by mode of transport

Car - 110g Maritime - 14 g Train - 23g Air - 607g

SUSTAINABLE PROCESS

Choose a site that treats and/or recycles all waste and gases. Integrate the end of life from the design stage, favour single-materials and recycled materials. Recycling, loop process

USE EXTEND THE USE AND LIMIT MICROPLASTICS, LONG-LASTING MAINTENANCE

Decrease energy consumption, less polluting and renewable −Reduce waste production, losses and wastage −Durability, reliability, maintenance, repair −Fashion versus timelessness effect

cupro

Different transformation process even more impacting on the environment (chemicals).Some sourcing more eco-designed.

SUSTAINABLE FINISHES

Enzymatic treatment, plasma, nanotechnology-Combining stain and finish

alternative viscose

Greener viscose including Ecovero™(European wood without mono-culture), modal, Micro-modal ™or bamboo viscose (Monocel™with organic solution) from certified forests, with closed-loop solvent recycling, carbon neutral footprint, recyclable even compostable. Modal Colordirectly dyes the fibermatrix, saving a lot of water and energy (-80%). Lyocel/ Tencel ™(Lenzing): from certified sustainable wood (South Africa and surface yield 5x greater than cotton), with non-toxic solvent recycled to 99%. Tencel ™is fully recyclable. Also follow the Refibra™project based on recycled fibers.Soalon™, triacetate by Mitsubishi, from certified sustainable wood Biopolymers from bio mass, therefore a renewable source lotus stem, nettle fiber, bana stalk, coffee grounds, kapok fiber, PLA, seaweed fiber, milk fiber, soybean fiber, kelp fiber, squid fiber

2013 NF X 30-264 Environmental management

Help in setting up an eco-design approach.

SUSTAINABLE DYEING

Light colors require less water and dyes (but bleaching) Favour dyed yarn or dye the finished product -Use colored recycledfibers Inkjet printing, transfer, waterless (Dyecco, CO2), natural stains Sustainable technologies (CadirafromDystar)

alternative to spandex

Lycra ™T400 ™EcoMadewith 65% recycled plastics (PET bottles) and renewable plant resources (corn). Elasticity reacts to body heat for greater comfort.70% Lycra ™T162R ™made from dextrose from renewable plant resources (corn).

ACRYLIC grade

MANUFACTUIRNG - 100% fossil processing (gas) and 30% more energy than polyester CHEMICALS - many toxic WATER - more than polyester PLANT USAGE - destruction of natural habitat WASTE - not biodegradable LABOR - inhalation toxic VOCs and

VISCOSE grade

MANUFACTUIRNG - less consumption of fossil resources than synthetic but still transformation into energy CHEMICALS - chemicals to dissolve wood or bamboo pulp WATER - polluted water without treatment unless it is recycled LAND USAGE - depends on origin of wood LABOR - depends on place of processing

SPANDEX grade

MANUFACTUIRNG - raw material (oil) 100% fossil CHEMICALS - many toxic LAND USAGE - destruction of natural habitats WASTE - not beiodegrabable - not recyclable if elastane > 2%

POLYAMIDE grade

MANUFACTURING - 100% fossil raw materials with high GES emissions CHEMICALS - uses many WATER - less water consumption than natural but must be treated WASTE - not biodegradable

POLYESTER grade

MANUFACTURING - 100%fossil raw materials and high GHG processing CHEMICALS - antiomoine emissions (toxic) WATER - less water consumption than natural but must be treated LAND USAGE - destruction of natural habitats WASTE - not biodegradable

GOTS cotton grade

MANUFACTURING - 46% less impact on global warming CHEMICALS - insecticide restrctions and pesticides WATER USAGE - 90-90% water consumption LAND USAGE - 2x land free LABOR - respect of people

Linen Grade

MANUFACTURING - mechanical development process most often CHEMICALS - very limited use of fertilizer - no organic supply WATER USAGE - low impact ground retting - necessary treatment by water of chemical retting LAND USAGE -obligation to practice crop rotations WASTE - 0% waste - high abrasian and tear resistance LABOR - good working conditions - 70% made in europe and belgium

WOOL grade

MANUFACTURING - methane (GHG) emissions CHEMICALS - heavy prolaptic and curative treatment of animals - transformation requires chemical inputs WATER USAGE - polluted water LAND USAGE - danger of erosion ANIMAL - suffering due to mulesing - aggressive mowing - volume wool dangerous for animal LABOR - expsure to farmers' chemicals made in australia and new zealand

alternative to polyester

Mechanically recycled polyester, often made from PET bottles. Chemically recycled polyester giving a quality identical to that of virgin polyester. Sorona™, 1/3 vegetable and 2/3 petroleum, with lower processing temperatures than polyester. Polyesters exist without the use of antimony, and without a catalytic agent based on cobalt or manganese salts. Use Airdye™(Debs) dyeing technologies that save 95% water, 86% energy and 84% GHG emissions compared to a standard water-based technique, or Dyecco™based on recyclable CO2.

sustainable wool

Mechanically recycled wool, which greatly limits air, water and soil pollution. Organic wool (limited quantities), without chemical treatments throughout the process. Responsible Wool Standard - Certify and trace the entire process from the farm (land management, respect for animals and the "5 freedoms of animal welfare") to the finished garment. Tricolor - Certify and trace the entire process from the farm (land management, respect for animals and the "5 freedoms of animal welfare") to the finished garment. Sustainable Cashmere - Local sustainable sector, taking into account animal welfare, marketed by Good Fabrics. Uses a lot of water Erosion - due to too many animals Used GMO to double produce wool on animal - but inhibits animals ability to walk properly There are sustainable options

alternative to acrylic

Mechanically recycled wool, which requires only energy. Organic or certified Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) wool / French sector. Recycled acrylic. Avoid acrylics using dimethylformamide and vinyl acetate in their process.

Cellulosis/viscose?

Modal, from beech, uses more chemicals but less toxic, and less water. More resistant fiber. Cupro. Different transformation process even more impacting on the environment (chemicals).Some sourcing more eco-designed. cetate, with a silky aspect, can come from different sources (cotton, wood pulp, even synthetic fibers). High consumption of energy and chemicals. Sourcing possible from renewable raw materials and biodegradable finished product.

Organic Blended label

Organic Blended label

Which environmental impacts does the fashion industry have?

Pesticides - ex. With cotton Water pollution - Carbon emissions Dyeing - also chemicals, water, tc Exhaustion of product which are not renewable

natural leather alternatives

Piñatex(AnansaAnman), from pinappleleafs apple Skin (Frumat), based on apple peels (50%) and PU (50%). Muskinor Mushroom "Leather", made from mushrooms, 100% biodegradable. Reishi™(MycoWorks), mushroom "leather". beLEAF™made from Alocasia Macrorrhizaor elephant ears (Nova Kaeru). Also based on eucalyptus, cork oak bark, kombucha tea, seaweed, etc. Richard Wool recently developed an eco-leather based on cotton, linen, corn and soybeans with waterproof and biodegradable properties.

alternative to polyamide

Polyamide mechanically recycled. Polyester chemically recycled, generally polyamide 6. The best known is Econyl™based on fishing nets, carpets and polyamide clothing giving a polyamide of equal quality to virgin polyamide. AmniSoul Eco ™(Solvay), a polyamide 6,6 "biodegradable" in 5 years and integrating the treatment of water and air throughout its transformation.

END-OF-LIFE TREATMENT FACILITATE SORTING AND RECYCLABILITY :

Recycling, biodegradation, upcycling, downcycling −Spinneret, cradle to cradle

DISTRIBUTION OPTIMIZE PACKAGING REDUCE WEIGHT AND VOLUME:

Reduced, adapted, less polluting, reusable and recyclable packaging. −Mode of transport, optimized logistics, local supplies

Production portion of lifecycle LIMIT LOSSES, WASTE, HARMFUL SUBSTANCES AND ENERGY CONSUMPTION:

Reduction of volume, mass, rationalization −Optimize production techniques: fewer steps, lower energy consumption, clean technology, Best AvalaibleTechnologies (BAT), reduce consumption of consumables and waste, which must be the least polluting.

Global Fiber Production

SEE SLIDE

SUSTAINABLE TREATMENTS

Technology consuming less water, with less or less dangerous chemical inputs, less energy consumption (lower temperatures, RE, heat exchanger) Favour mechanical processes over chemical and/or wet processes. -Prefer plied yarns to yarns with finishes, nonwovens -Optimize the number of treatments that are really necessary and favour continuous treatments. - enzymatic plasma treatment

leather alternatives

Vegetable tannins: tara, mimosa, quebracho, chestnut. The other stages of the process still consume the usual chemicals used in chrome tanning. Optimization of water consumption, and waste water, and lower chemical inputs thanks to new, more efficient equipment: The label awarded, after audit by the Leather Working Group, is a first guarantee(different levels: gold, silver, bronze) including environmental impacts, well-being and working conditions, and is aligned with the ZDHC. Oeko-Tex Leather Standard tested harmful chemicals throughout the chain

silk

Wild silk: collected after the butterfly hatches. Gives shorter fibers. Organic silk, which mainly consists of using organically grown mulberry trees, without chemical fertilizers (few quantities on the market).

ICTYOS

an innovative eco-responsible tannery that produces high-quality marine leathers in an ethical approach, from fish skins from the food industry and initially doomed to destruction. an innovative eco-responsible tannery that produces high-quality marine leathers in an ethical approach, from fish skins from the food industry and initially doomed to destruction.

Organic Content Standard

applies to any non-food product containing 95 to 100% organic matter. it follows the flow of raw materials, from the origin to the finished product

"Organic Textiles" Label

at least 95% of fibers from organic farming and a maximum of 5% of synthetic or artificial fibers. Organic Textiles - only on organic, not on social or quality of product

bamboo fiber is not

bamboo viscose greenwashing!

Oeko-TexDetox to Zero

based on the DETOX campaign of Greenpeace whose objective is to exclude dangerous chemicals. It provides textile and leather producers with an analysis and evaluation tool that creates transparency and control in the use of dangerous substances.

The RCS (Recycled Claim Standard)

chain of custody standard for tracking recycled raw materials from one end of the supply chain to the other.

sustainable distribution solutions

electroslip hopal

Adapta

finds for the creators ,the high-end leathers that stay in the stocks of luxury houses and associated suppliers and ensures high quality selection, and its professionalism, impeccable follow-up.

Blue Sign, international label for textiles

guarantees that no toxic or carcinogenic substance was used during production and sets binding criteria in terms of energy and water consumption, and waste and quality management air. There are also social criteria, based on the ILO conventions for the textile industry.

eko-TexMADE IN GREEN

guarantees that textiles and leathers do not contain undesirable substances, but also that manufacturers respect strict ecological production standards.

OekoTex100

guarantees the non-toxicity of a garment for health, in accordance with European REACH regulations throughout the production chain. It incorporates some social criteria.

Oeko-TexSTeP

implements environmentally friendly production processes that improve health and safety and promote socially responsible working conditions.

Eco-design

integrates the environment from the design of a product and during all stages of its life cycle while preserving its rendered service Decide the actions to be implemented between the product that we want to achieve and its environmental impacts

Global Recycle Standard (GRS)

international and voluntary standard which establishes the criteria for certification by third parties of recycled content (minimum 50%), chain of custody, social and environmental practices and restrictions on chemical composition.

The textiles system operates in an almost completely linear way

large amounts of non-renewable resources are extracted to produce clothes that are often used for only a short time, after which the materials are mostly sent to landfill or incinerated.

FOCUS ON RENEWABLE AND RECYCLED ORGANIC RESOURCES :

less toxic, renewable, recycled, recyclable, natural -Requires less fossil fuel inputs, chemicals, land use, water consumption and non-renewables

Textiles made from organic fibers

minimum of 70% organic fibers, and no more than 10% synthetic or artificial fibers, up to 25% for footwear or sports articles.

HIGG Index, by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition

offers a unique and standardized tool that measures the environmental performance of textile and footwear products. the Higg Index consists of three tools: - the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI), - the Higg Designers and Developers Module (DDM) and - the Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM).

modal

om beech, uses more chemicals but less toxic, and less water. More resistant fiber.

BCI (Better Cotton Initiative)

operates in a business-to-consumer approach by developing standards and verifying compliance by self-assessment of these standards in order to ensure sustainable cotton production practices among these members. By mechanical recycling: during the manufacturing process, the scraps are frayed (up to 2% of elasthanepossible), then spun again, mixed in view of their reduced length with virgin fibers, without additional consumption of water or chemical inputs. By chemical recycling: process still in an experimental state. See SaXcell, Renewal, LoncelF and Evrnu. BCI - controversial - many fields which were organic are now labeled BCI - BCI is less strict BCI is not very strict - security, respect of conditions is not good Ideal would be 60% GOTS, 40% recycled? Cotton

ZDHC or Zero Discharge Hazardous Chemicals

program taking holistically into account the problem of chemical substances in the textile and leather sector in order to eliminate them on the basis of an MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List), a guide to compliance, quality discharged water, an audit protocol, R&D, available and shared data, training.

2002, ISO / TR 14062 the AFNOR standard

specifies that eco-design aims to "integrate environmental aspects into

eco-designed product

the company must be able to "provide relevant, significant, verifiable and actual elements demonstrating that it has implemented an eco-design approach

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

the main international standard for textiles produced from organic fibers. - strict environmental criteria for the entire supply chain -social aspect (compliance with ILO conventions such as freedom of association, living wages, non-employment of children ...) -conformity (shrinkage) -and quality (color retention) criteria GOTS -- not just organic, but also social criteria and quality - very complete - all steps of production

acetate

with a silky aspect, can come from different sources (cotton, wood pulp, even synthetic fibers). High consumption of energy and chemicals. Sourcing possible from renewable raw materials and biodegradable finished product.

natural animal fibers

wool silk