THEA332 TEST#2

bonnet rouge

"red cap of liberty"; symbol of the French Revolution

Henry VIII

(8) monarch of England; reigned 1558-1603; split from Catholic Church to establish the Church of England in order to divorce his wife Catherine of Aragon; reign tied with the height of gothic style and start of English Renaissance; known for supporting the arts and imported artists from continental Europe

bombast

a stuffing made of wool, horsehair, short linen fibers called tow or bran. It was used to heavily pad doublets and trunk hose.

fichu pereline

a variant of the pelerine, had two wide panels or lapels extending down the front of the dress and passed under the belt

mackintosh

a waterproof coat made of rubber and cut like a short, loose overcoat; named after its inventor

mules

backless shows worn by both men and women

whisk

band of linen that frequently edged the wide, low, and horizontal/oval shaped neck of women's gowns in 1660-1680

blackwork

black on white Spanish embroidery that was especially popular; used on the camicia on the necklines and cuffs

skeleton suit

boys of 6-7 years old wore this; long straight trousers, white shirt with wide collar finishing with a ruffled edge, jacket that was either a shorter, simplified version of those for adults or cut to the waist and double-breasted

rhinegraves

breeches that were actually a divided skirt cut so full as to seem like a short skirt; also called petticoat breeches

open breeches

breeches that were wide and full throughout

Charles II of England

brought to the throne a taste for French styles and mistresses; shrewd politician; plotted to gain absolute power; died suddenly in 1685; James II succeeded the throne

redingote

coat-dresses derived from English men's riding coats

cassock, casaque

coats with wide, full sleeves that were wide throughout the body and ended at thigh height or below

pomander balls

small balls of perfume enclosed in decorated, perforated boxes that might be shaped like an apple

plumpers

small balls of wax in the cheeks to give the face a fashionably rounded shape; 1660-1700

reticule

small handbags often with a drawstring at the top; replaced the pockets that were made impractical by the narrow silhouette of the Empire period

aiguillettes

small jeweled points mounted on laces that served to hold panes/slashes together

Louis XIII

son of Henry IV; reigned from 1610-1643; worked with Cardinal Richelieu; "Sun King"

banyan

comfortable, loosely fitted garment; worn throughout century as casual/undress at home; dressing gown, morning gown, nightgown

galosh

contemporary term described as a flat-soled overshoe with a toe cap for keeping it in place

sans culottes

culotte is French for knee breeches; referred to men who wore trousers aka not knee breeches in support of the Revolution of 1789; for generations: laborers had worn trousers and gentry had worn knee breeches

mantua-style gown

cut in one piece from shoulder to hem, fitted to body in front and back; many were open in front and petticoat visible; more popular in England than France

frock coat

cut looser and shorter than dress coats; flat, turned down collars; not embroidered; acceptable for country wear after 1730; accepted for more formal wear after 1780

round gowns

daytime or evening dresses that did not open at the front to show a petticoat

ruff

developed as an individual item separate from the shirt; very wide, often lace and stiffly starched; became the most characteristic trait of the time period

fontange

device made of a series of ruffles held in place with wire supports; called the commode in England/American colonies; elaborate tall structure of 3-4 lace tiers in front and a cascade of ruffles and bows in the back

Louis XIV (14)

dominated Baroque period; reigned 72 years; died 1715; established a standard of grandeur not reached by any other country; resolved to forestall any rebellions by the nobility; built Versailles; court fashion was expensive, varied, and ridiculous; revoked Edict of Nantes (caused Huguenots to leave); exhausted the nation, impoverished the people; set style for absolute monarchy that was copied throughout Europe

pair-of-bodys

earlier version of stays; a garment cut into 2 sections and fastened at the front and back with laces or tapes. Usually an undergarment but occasionally used as an overgarment

draw loom

elaborate figured silk fabrics were produced on this; use required that a small boy sit on top of the loom and manually lower and raise sets of yarn in order to create a pattern; believed to have been invented in China; used wherever complicated silk patterned fabrics being made by 1600

tail coat

extensions on the back of coats; two extensions that began where the cut in of the coat ended, and ended slightly above the knee

imbecile, idiot sleeve

extremely full from shoulder to wrist, where they are gathered into a fitted cuff; name derived from the fact that its construction was similar to that of sleeves used on garments for confining mad persons - a strait jacket of the period

falling band

fat collar on very full white linen men's shirts; sometimes lace; often decorated with cutwork embroidery

chemisette

fillers, raised the necklines of daytime dresses; separate from the dress and could be worn with different bodices

robe a Anglaise

fitted back and front; popular in England; probably grew out of Mantua-style gown; replaced sacque style dresses

tricorne

flat hats with brims turned or "cocked" up at three points to form a triangle

mantua/manteau

full in both front and back; worn over a corset and an underskirt; thought to have originated so as to provide a less confining costume for women; pleated to fit the body at front+back; belted; front skirt edges were sometimes pull to the back and fastened to form a draped effect

pantaloons

generally defined as fitting the leg more closely than trousers, which were made in close-fitting, moderately full, or very full styles

morning dress

generally the most informal, often being made of lingerie-type fabric such as white collar or fine linen with lace or ruffled trimmings

trousers

term that superseded the term pantaloons

nether stocks

the bottom part of stockings or breeches that were sometimes sewn to the upper stocks

trunk hose

large padded breeches that was joined to nether stocks when men no longer appeared in short jackets or longer skirted jackets and hose; replaced the upper hose

chapeau bras

large, flat hats that were carried under the arm rather than being worn

box coat

large, loose greatcoats with one or more capes at the shoulder; 1840's this was also called a curricle coat

James I

the monarch following Queen Elizabeth; reign called the Jacobean period; political unrest; Puritans taking more power, darker clothing, simpler styles to combat the crazy spending of the monarchy/nobility

Queen Elizabeth

the monarch following Queen Mary; Protestant; many enemies as she turned England from Catholic to Protestant; started the Elizabethan era/style; main features were large ruffs and whisks

peascod belly

pronounced belly that was padded on the front of the doublet. It is so called because it looked like the puffed out chest of a peacock.

carmagnole

short woolen or cloth jacket of a dark color; hip length with fullness at the back, cut rather like a smock; part of sans-cullottes dress

eton suit

short, single breasted jacket, ending at the waist; front was cut square; lapels wide with a turned down collar; necktie, vest/waistcoat, and trousers completed outfit; basic style for young boys for the rest of the century

hoops

similar in construction to the farthingale; cone shaped; made of hoops of whalebone or metal sewn into petticoats; hoops increase in size as they reach the floor; called paniers in France 1720's - rounded like dome 1730's - narrower front to back, sides expand 1740's-1760's - extremes of width reached

pelisse

similar to a modern coat, generally full length and followed the typical Empire silhouette; for winter especially - made with silk, cotton, warm linings

Venetians

skin tight version of breeches that are wide at the top and tapering at the knee

gigot sleeve

sleeves that are full at the shoulder, gradually decreasing in size to the wrist where they ended in fitted cuff

sleeve en bouffant

a sleeve that alternated places of tightness with puffed-out expansions

Frances I

King of France in 1500's who made alliance with Ottoman Empire; brought on many Middle Eastern influences as their were viewed as fierce and exotic

3. In what ways did foreign trade have an impact on 18th century styles?

Europe started to trade with the Far East more and more. Importing Oriental silk, damask, and brocades and Indian chintz, calico, and muslin. As the industry got more advanced, European copies appeared on the market. They imported banyans, chemise a la reine and mantua style dresses.

3. What is meant by the 'estate' system in France, prior to the revolution?

First Estate = Church Second Estate = Nobles Third Estate = Everyone else, from upper middle class to peasants Only 3rd estate paid taxes

love lock

French and English men of fashion grew one lock of hair longer than the rest

Jean-Jacques Rousseau

French philosopher; given credit for inspiring a change in children's costume to looser and no longer dressing them as miniature adults; philosophies helped inspire the Declaration of Independence

4. What are some examples of Asian and Middle Eastern influences on fashion?

Banyans, chemise a la reine, mantua-style dresses

paniers

French word for basket; derived from the fact that both baskets and hoops might be made of wicker; called hoops in England

2. What helped facilitate the dissemination of fashion information in the 16th century?

-Intermarriage of royal fams from other countries -imported garments -travelers brought back info

4. What are some examples of cross-cultural influences on Western dress of the 17th century?

-The vest = thought to have Oriental origins -Mantua = thought to derive from the construction of Middle Eastern robes that were imported to Europe

3. What were some new technological advances or materials developed in the 16th century which affected clothing significantly?

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4. What was the Edict of Nante? How did it affect fashion?

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5. How did exploration/colonization affect fashions?

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Renaissance

1450-1550

Elizabethan (English Renaissance)

1550-1625

Early Baroque/Charles I and Commonwealth

1625 - 1660

Late Baroque/Louis XIV (France and continent) The Restoration (England)

1660-1700

Early Georgian/Rococco

1700-1750

Late Georgian/E. Neo-Classical

1750-1790

3. What political and social issues or events affected clothing during the Romantic period?

1789 Revolution, Napoleon conquests; George III and his court; Victoria in power = Victorian age; westward expansion, civil war, immigration from Europe to America

Director/First Empire/Regency

1790-1815

Romantic

1815-1840/50

1. What is Anglomania? What impact did it have on fashion?

A fad in women's clothing. The French wanted English fashions. There was a vogue for simpler styles, like riding habits and redingotes. Frenchmen copied English tailoring and wore simpler, undecorated suits and affected a more casual mode of dress except at court.

5. What is the Enlightenment? How did it affect costume?

A new wave of philosophy. Reason and logic as the basis for everything. Emphasis on reason and individualism rather than tradition and want to move society forward using science. J.J. Rousseau advocated changing children's dress, in particular, swaddling, because they didn't serve the needs of the children that were wearing them.

George Washington

American Revolutionary, eventually the first president of the United States

Ben Franklin

American Revolutionary, part of Declaration of Independence and Constitution

Thomas Jefferson

American Revolutionary; wrote Declaration of Independence; part of Constitution

petticoat

An underskirt that provided a layer for many of the dresses

2. Why were the Spanish upper class men and women dressed differently than other upper class men and women of Europe?

By the beginning of the 17th century Spanish styles were beginning to lag behind other countries; Spanish tended to be more conservative than other nations; prolonged styles like the ruff and the farthingale

slashing/origins of

Came from Swiss army stuffing colorful silk fabrics that they had looted from the enemy camp under their badly torn clothes for warmth.

Spanish farthingale

Conical hoop support for skirts to achieve the rigid lines favored; also called verdugale

galligaskins

Hose that sloped gradually from a narrow waist to fullness concentrated about mid-thigh where they ended. Also known as Slops.

1. How are some of the political conflicts present in costumes during this period? Name some garments or accessories as examples.

Immigration and industrialization - increased production, reduced cost; nobility vs. bourgeoisie; Estates General dress code; revolutionary colors of red, white, and blue were popular; bonnet rouge, sans culottes costume as examples

Catherine de Medici

Italian who became Queen of France; brought her Italian tailors to France with her; became the regent of France; created a sense of revolution; huge impact on the spread of fashion

French farthingale

Made using whalebone/metal. Circles were with the same diameter from hips to floor. Steel or cane spokes fastened the topmost hoop to a waistband.

2. Describe the evolution of both men's and women's fashions from the early part of the century to the end of the century.

Men's clothing stayed the same as previous centuries until 1850. After this point, the silhouettes narrowed severely. Greatcoats and breeches lost fullness and became more fitted. Waistcoats lost the sleeves and became shorter. Narrow, stand up collars appear on shirts. Women's clothing expands ridiculously by mid-century, and shrinks in width by the end of the century. The fullness starts to be swept to the back of the skirt with false rumps, and losing the paniers

3. What were some similarities and what were some differences between costume in Italy in the second half of the 15th century and that of Northern Europe? In the 16th century?

Men: -doublets not as short -houppelandes had funnel/hanging sleeves -shoes not as piked -short hair Women: -houppelandes had creatively cut sleeves -covered hair less -distinctive beehive hairdress 2nd Half: -no v-necked gown with wide revers -no tall henins -houppelande was replaced by distinctively Italian style though it varied by area

1. In what ways can it be said that Italian Renaissance costumes, especially in cities like Florence, were influenced by the business interests of local merchants?

Merchants were at the top of the social hierarchy, right under the nobility. Those who were well off could go to a tailor. They had all the money so they could by the most expensive things and set the trends. In Florence, the government was run by the merchant class and not the nobility.

Josephine Bonaparte

Napoleon's first wife; she kept importing shawls without Napoleon's knowledge; had a ridiculously large inventory of clothing from France as well; was extremely influential in setting and disseminating fashion from the French court to the people

3. How did the clothing of members of the puritan and royalist factions in the English Civil War differ? What seems to have been the basis for these differences?

Puritans followed much the same styles as the rest of the populations; puritans decried excesses of dress and the wearing of more stylish clothes than was appropriate to one's station; royalists stressed lavishly decorated costumes in vivid colors; wealthy puritans wore clothing of fine quality but more restrained in decoration and color; cut hair shorter and avoided curls, nicknamed roundheads; hats with plumes vs hats with high crows and narrow brims; aprons all round (puritans less ornate)

1. An important theme running through costume history is that of relationships between costume and developments in the fine and applied arts. How was the Romantic movement in the arts reflected in costume of the Romantic Period?

Romantic movement: emphasis on emotion, sentiment, and feeling, interest in history stimulating; caused revivals of fashions; reaction against classical styles of 17/18th centuries; content over form, liked to break the rules; parties with historical themed dress were in vogue

the Regent, Prince of Wales

Ruled after George III (1810-1820); court/fashionable society were organized around the Prince Regent; pursuit of pleasure was his most active pastime

Medici collar

Standing collar, similar to open ruff but not pleated, framed the face, differs from whisk due to deeper v opening, rival of the open ruff, named after the Medici queens of France

2. What foreign influences entered Italian costume in the 16th century? Why did foreign influences come to dominate? What were some of these?

The Ottoman Empire remained a military threat until the 17th century. The Ottomans controlled the trade routes to the Orient. Italy signed contracts for safe passage across that route. Italy wanted silk. Many people in Italy dressed like the Turkish people due to this trade route influence. This is where turbans that were painted came from.

1. Why were Spanish influences on costume so strong in the 16th century?

The Spanish traveled to America where they gained new cloth and Spain was also very wealthy country that had a lot of power

4. How would you describe the evolution of men's costume from 1750- 1800?

The basic components (coat, waistcoat, breeches/trousers) and the silhouette did not change, but less colors, embroideries, and luxuries fabrics; sobering effect, less formal, more "egalitarian"; ornamentation eliminated, fine clothing noted instead by the cut and tailoring

merveilleuse

The marvelous ones; women who affected the most extreme of the Directoire styles, with long flowing trains, the sheerest of fabrics, necklines cut in some extreme cases to the waistline and huge, exaggerated jockey-like caps

Madame de Pompadour

The mistress of Louis XV

2. Why was white such a popular choice for clothing during the Directoire Period?

There was a new revival in the classics because of Napoleon's military conquests in Italy and Egypt; inspiration from the art informed the costumes; the sun had bleached all the color from the art away, leading to a false assumption that all costumes in antiquity were white; false assumption led to popularity of white in modern costumes

1. What are some specific ways in which royalty had a direct influence on fashions in dress in the 17th century?

Versailles was the hub of upper-class activity, clothing was a major item of expense for courtiers; when Charles II was restored the upper classes began to center more at court, and London became more important as a leader of fashion

ribbons of childhood

a broad ribbon of fabric attached at the shoulders of robes for boys and dresses for girls that hung down the back; probably stylized/atrophied form of hanging sleeves from medieval costume

gabled coif

a cap of white linen or more decorative fabrics usually with extensions below the ears. English style shaped like a pointed arch.

ferroniere

a chain or band of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located over the center of the forehead

chesterfield

a coat with either a single- or double-breasted closing, although the double-breasting closing has since been more closely associated with this term; no waistline seam, short vent in the back, no side pleats, often had a velvet collar

ditto

a coat, breeches, and waistcoat all made from the same materials

Anglomania

a fad in French women's clothing for lines/styles that were English

dandy

a fashionable man who dressed well, circulated in the "best" society, and who was always ready with a witty comment

stomacher ch.8

a filler on a bodice or shirt of a contrasting color; inserted under the V; laces were used to keep in place

supportasse

a frame that was created to hold up the now extremely large ruffs

sacque back

a gown that was unbelted, loose from the shoulder to the floor, pleats at the back and at the shoulder in the front; worn over a dome-shaped hoop; either closed or open style gown; more popular in France than England

greatcoat

a heavy overcoat

queue

a lock or pigtail at the back of a wig

macaroni

a man who adopted French and Italian-inspired fashions during the last half of the century; derived from the Macaroni Club, a club formed by young men who affected an interest in Continental European culture; noted for their brightly colored silks, lace-trimmed coats in the latest silhouette, and fashionable wigs and hats

beak (waistcoat)

a point at the front of the waistcoat, that developed along with the longer length

neo-classical

a revival of interest in classical antiquity of Greeks and Romans, effects on dress seen at the end of the 1700's

pecadils

a row of small, square flaps placed just below the waist of the doublet

á la Victime (hairstyle)

a short curly style; reference to the short haircuts given to victims about to be guillotined during the French Revolution (1789)

spencer

a short jacket, worn by both men and women that ended at the waistline (on women this was just below the bust); made with or without sleeves; color usually contrasted with the rest of the costume; worn both indoors and outdoors

Cardinal Mazarin

after Cardinal Richelieu, continued his work into the reign of Louis XIV

high stomacher dress

aka apron; complex construction in which the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back only; side front seams were left open to several inches below the waist and a band or string was located at the front of the waist of the skirt; bodice had a pair of underflaps that pinned across the chest, supporting the bust; garment was slipped over the head, put arms into sleeves, and then tied the waist string around the back like an apron

petticoat breeches/sherryvales

aka rhinegraves; actually a divided skirt, like a modern culotte; cut so full as to give appearance of a short skirt; popular from 1650-1675; may have originated in Germany; full, wide ruffles attached to the bottom of these breeches were called canons

vest

aka waistcoat; below the knee length inner coat/piece; worn over narrow breeches

upper stocks

also called breeches; took on appearance of a separate garment and were cut somewhat fuller than lower section; many style variations; codpieces and nether stocks attached

slops

also called galligaskins; hose that sloped gradually from a narrow waist to fullness concentrated about mid-thigh where they ended

justacorps

also called surtouts (French)/cassocks (English); knee-length coats replacing doublets as outer garments; fitted straight sleeves with turned back cuffs; buttons down front; completely covered breeches and waistcoats

verdugale

also known as Spanish farthingale; provided support for the desired rigidity of line; device constructed of whalebone, cane, or steel hoops that graduated in size like a cone that was sewn to the petticoat

gaiters

also known as surtouts; full wide-skirted coat, ending below the knee; generally cuffed sleeves

Spanish work

an especially fashionable embroidery originating in Spain that spread throughout Europe; delicate black silk figures worked on fine white linen; often applied to the neckband of both men's and women's chemises; also called blackwork

polonaise

an overdress and petticoat in which the overskirt was puffed and looped by means of tapes and rings sewn into the skirt; hoop or bustle supported the skirt; fashionable from about 1770-1785

Napoleon Bonaparte

got his start during the 1789 Revolution; became the hero of Paris with his victories over Austria and British; staged a coup in 1799 and overthrew the Directoire; crowned himself Emperor of France; instituted major reforms in law, education, and government structure; set out on a campaign, won all but Great Britain and Russia; abdicated in 1814 to island of Elba; wanted to encourage French industry by stimulating the demand for French goods by restricting importation of fabric from abroad

round gown

gowns that were closed all the way down the front; can't see petticoats, corset, or stomachers

Louis XV

grandson of Louis XIV and king of France from 1715 to 1774 who led France into the War of the Austrian Succession and the Seven Years' War (1710-1774)

Louis XVI

grandson of Louis XV; well-meaning, pious king, unfit for ruling France; married Marie Antoinette

hedgehog hairstyle

hair curled, full and wide around the face and long locks hanging down the back

bowler hat/Derby hat

hats that had stiff, round, bowl-shaped crowns with narrow brims; began to be worn at the close of the period

*2. What relationship did the Industrial Revolution have with costume and fashion in the Romantic period? What are primary examples of this?

higher production of goods at lower prices; higher standard of living; transition from agriculture to urban; factory system = urbanization; women, children, and unskilled exploited; woven textiles now even easier to produce, lace machines getting better so available at a low cost; seamless hosiery due to power knitting frame; men could buy ready made clothing; women only corsets/cloaks readymade

stomacher ch.9

in Spain and Holland this elongated into a rigidly boned U-shape; 1680-1700 they were separate and could be tied or pinned to the front of a corset to vary the appearance of the dress

waistcoat

introduced to English court by Charles II in 1666; below the knee length garment worn over narrow breeches and beneath the coat of the same length

Henry IV of France

issued Edict of Nantes - political arrangement intended to bring peace between the warring Protestant minority (Huguenots) and Roman Catholic majority in France; assassinated in 1610

stays

linen under bodice made from two layers of fabric stiffened with glue

camicia

linen, full length undergarment closest to the skin, usually seen underneath outer garments

caraco

long fitted jacket; worn with skirts; similar in style to jackets based on men's riding dress; worn with men's hats

cravat

long, narrow, scale-like pieces separate from the shirt that were worn instead of collars

pantalettes

long, straight, white drawers trimmed with rows of lace or tucks at the hem that became fashionable for a short time around 1809; the fashion did not long continue for adult women, lasted longer with young girls

Watteau pleat

loose fitting, pleated back style; revival in 19th century; Watteau was an 18th century painter who often depicted women wearing this style

needlepoint lace

made by embroidering over base threads arranged in a pattern and connecting these base threads with a series of intricate small stitches

bishop sleeve

made with a row of pleats at the shoulder that released into a soft, full sleeve gathered to a fitted cuff at the wrist; popular until 1840

breeches

made with seams on outside and inside of each leg; hung from waist; varying degrees of fullness; used today but shape and cut has varied over time; begins around 1570; replaced trunk hose by 1620; probably derived from term "braises"

incroyable

men known as the "incredibles" wore waistcoats of loose fit at the shoulders, excessively tight breeches, and cravats or neckties and collars that covered so much of their chins that one wonders if they could be heard or understood when they spoke

rococo

movement in art/fashion/architecture/etc; lines less massive than Baroque, curves more slender and delicate, emphasis on asymmetrical balance; white and gold; reached height during reign of Louis XV

pelisse-robe

name given to dress for daytime that was adapted from the pelisse that was worn outside; coat dress that closed down the front with buttons/ribbon ties/hooks and eyes

panes

narrow strips of fabric under which contrasting linings were placed.

en Coeur (neckline)

off-the-shoulder necklines that extended straight across; common on evening dresses

promanade dress

often indistinguishable from a morning dress; also referred/similar to: day dress, walking, promenade, or carriage dress

codpiece

originally intended to make hose fit more properly and men more able to relieve themselves. by 1500 the piece had become very obvious; probably a factor of the syphilis epidemic

clog

overshoes that protect against wet and muddy surfaces, sometimes made of matching fabrics and had sturdy leather soles, built up arches, and latchets that tied across the instep to hold the clog in place

false rumps

pad tied at the back of the waist to support fullness of skirts at the back

bum rolls

padded roll placed around the waist in order to give skirts a greater width below the waist. In addition to the farthingale.

ruching

pleated or gathered strips of fabric, a type of trimming

Cardinal Richelieu

real power behind the French throne; sought to centralize authority in monarchy and raise France to dominant position in Europe; died 1642; replaced by Cardinal Mazarin

George III

reigned throughout the Directoire/Empire period; pious, virtuous man, enjoyed the simple life; suffered from a hereditary disease; eventually incapacitated, causing his son to take over

robe a la francaise

replaced the sacque back; full, pleated cut at the back and a fitted front; back referred to as Watteau back/pleat after 18th century; popular in France

eschelles

ribbons that covered stomachers

engageantes

ruffles on the end of sleeve finishing below the elbow

spatterdashers, spats

separate protective coverings for sturdy shoes that extended from the top of the shoe to some point below the knee; worn to protect the legs; also called gaiters

bases

separate short skirts worn with a jacket/doublet for civil dress or over armor for military dress; made from a series of lined+stiffened gores; termed for it being the lower part/base of jacket

duckbills

shoes with slashing with puffs of fabric through the openings so named because of their shape which resembled the bill of a duck

straight soles, straights

shoes without shaping for the left and right feet; until early 19th century; usually on high heels

á la Titus (hairstyle)

short curly style, referencing the short hair depicted on Roman men in art

front-fall trousers

trousers that close at the front with a square central flap that buttoned to the waistline

mantilla

veil worn to cover the hair that has come to be associated with traditional Spanish costume; smaller version of the mantle worn by women during the medieval period; tradition regulates the length according to status as widow/married/unmarried female

chopines

very high platform-soled shoes

chemise a la reine

white muslin gown that resembled the chemise under garment of the period; had a full waistline and a soft, fully gathered skirt; imported from India

bertha

wide deep collars following the neckline; common on evening dresses

pelerine

wide, cape-like collars that extended over the shoulders and down across the bosom

stock

wide, shaped neckpieces fastening at the back that were often black

Marie Antoinette

wife of Louis XVI; immature, frivolous, disliked by common people and nobles; dispensed with many court traditions; spent a lot of money on clothing and jewelry; started the fashion for peasant style dresses and hats

petticoat as undergarment

worn under the skirts; gained width as the skirts/silhouettes did