Wine Start 52

A Wine Geek's Guide to Chardonnay Clones Around the World

We hear a lot about the many clones of Pinot Noir. We even see some of their names, like Pommard, Wädenswil and 777, listed proudly on wine labels. But there's also an array of Chardonnay clones in use worldwide. The world's most popular white wine, Chardonnay is the progeny of regal Pinot Noir and lesser-known Gouais Blanc. Given the breadth of Chardonnay plantings, it makes sense that the grape's clones thrive from Champagne to California to Western Australia. Along with site and climate, these clones play a role in creating the style of Chardonnay in your glass, from full-bodied Napa Valley wines to racy, lean Chablis. What Are Grape Clones? Understanding Clones Grape clones are cuttings taken from a single vine that have identical genetic material to their parent source. They can be useful when growers want to cultivate a specific trait or group of traits, like productivity, berry size or acid retention. Climate, soil and other factors determine the success that a particular clone will achieve in a specific location. These clones share certain similarities to field selections, or what the French call selection massale (massal selection), where a group of plants from a vineyard are cut after harvest and propagated. Ultimately, however, the two diverge. "There's inherent genetic variability [with field selections] because you have all those different plants, and they didn't all come from a single source," says David Ramey, founder/winemaker at Ramey Wine Cellars, one of California's premier Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producers. In the U.S., grape clones are propagated by places like Foundation Plant Services (FPS) at University of California, Davis. Established in 1958 to distribute clean (disease-free) plant material, FPS maintains more than 80 Chardonnay clones, identified by number. Those names can get confusing, though. Some clones numbered by FPS might have had different numbers before they were heat-treated. Others are referred to colloquially by the producers they originally came from, like the Martini clone, taken from Louis Martini's vineyard in Carneros, California, or the Robert Young clone, which came from a vineyard of the same name in Alexander Valley. "In California, you've got Clone 4, which as I understand it, used to be 108, which is a selection from Louis Martini's Carneros vineyard," says Ramey. So, some might call this Clone 4, while others might say Clone 108—and it might actually be 108, if it were planted prior to being heat-treated. Others could refer to it as the Martini clone, which could be clones 4, 108, or even 5 and 6. Got it? Knudsen Vineyard in the Willamette Valley / Photo by Danita Delimont / Alamy Chardonnay Clones in France In Burgundy, Chardonnay's ancestral home, clones 76 and 95 are most prevalent, according to Christophe Deola, director at famed producer Louis Latour in Beaune. Deola's team works with a wide variety of other clones, as well as massal selections. These clones can have differences in productivity, sugar content and other factors. How productive a clone will be can contribute to its overall ripeness in a particular region. For example, clones that set more tons per acre will require a warmer climate with more heat units to ripen the fruit. The opposite is true of clones that set smaller crops levels. "The clones that produce less are logically ripening faster," says Deola. He says such clones that he works with in Burgundy are 1066, 548 and 1067. "Those produce rich wines with a high, dry extract. They need to be combined with some 76, 95 and 96 to add freshness and tension." In Champagne, with its considerably cooler climate and dedication to sparkling wines, winemakers generally use different clones. "By and large, what Champagne plants is larger-production clones that keep the inherent fruitiness and richness at bay because they don't really want it," says David Adelsheim, founder of Adelsheim Vineyard in Oregon's Willamette Valley. Vineyard in Margaret River / Getty New World Chardonnay Clones As he interned in Burgundy in the summer of 1974, Adelsheim noticed the area's Chardonnay clones ripened at the same time as its Pinot Noir. This occurred several weeks earlier than back home in Willamette. Inspired, Adelsheim worked with others to bring these clones into the U.S., where they became known as the "Dijon clones," as they came from the Office National Interprofessionnel des Vins in Dijon, France. Of those imports, Adelsheim says clones 76 and 95 are now by far the most planted in Oregon. "[Clones] 76 and 95 both make full-bodied, intensely flavored, relatively low crop-level Chardonnay," he says, in places like Willamette Valley. Many winemakers in Chile work with a similar set of clones as Oregon and Burgundy. Historically, however, the Mendoza clone was the most common and is still widely planted today. "[The Mendoza clone is] a clone of Chardonnay where the size of the clusters is not big," says Marcelo Papa, chief winemaker at Concha y Toro, one of Chile's largest labels. "It could be good quality, but not for big production." In the 1990s, clones 76, 95 and 548 became more prevalent in Chile. Others, like clones 4 and 5, were relegated largely to higher-production wines. "We like 548 and 95," says Papa. "I think that there is more fruit character than the Mendoza clone. Clone 548, it has a very nice precision in the nose in terms of austerity. You can get a very nice mouthfeel." Another Chardonnay clone, GinGin, thrives in cool-climate Western Australia. Its origins are unknown, but some of its resulting wines from Margaret River are considered among the world's best. "One of the main features of [GinGin] is it has millerandage, or 'hen and chick,' " says Virginia Wilcox, winemaker at Vasse Felix, of its irregularly sized fruit. While some winemakers think there's a virus infection in GinGin that causes millerandage, Wilcox doesn't care. She believes it results in high-quality wines. "You get a lovely sense of phenolic tension coming with that clone," she says. "We get a lot of power to the fruit and flavor in the wine. We think that the clone is a perfect match for the Margaret River climate." Meanwhile, California, with a much warmer climate, has an abundance of what's referred to as the Wente clone. Or, more correctly, the Wente selection. Wente is not a single clone, but rather a series of field selections. Some were imported in the late 1800s and early 1990s from France and propagated at Wente Vineyards and elsewhere. These are collectively referred to as "Old Wente." Others are versions of these same clones that were heat treated by UC-Davis to eliminate viruses. "There's a lot of variations of Wente," says Ramey. "I have a slight preference for a good Old Wente selection. You have a small cluster, and you have lower yield." Clone 4 is also popular in California. It has high acid, high sugar and high yield. These allow it to ripen more slowly in warmer regions, hanging higher tonnage and retaining acidity. Site selection, however, is critical. "You plant Clone 4 on very vigorous soil, you're going to have football-sized clusters," says Ramey. "But if you plant it on a site that's poor in organic material and better drained with a little gravel, you can make a very nice wine." 10 New Ways to Express Your Undying Love for Chardonnay Do Clones Matter? Even as they carefully select and cultivate their Chardonnay clones, many winemakers point out the numerous other factors that affect what grows well and where. Ramey says clones are important, but they're "not the overarching factor in quality by any way you look at it, which would be climate." Rather, he says, think about clones as equally important to other vineyard design criteria, like rootstock, spacing, trellising and canopy management. Concho y Toro's Papa says that site trumps all. "For me, much, much more important than the clone is the place. Ten to 1." Papa also stresses the significance of rootstock, since winemakers often graft grapevines onto it to help resist various pests and diseases. "If you give me five good clones of Chardonnay—76, 95, 548, a massale selection, whatever you choose . . . I will choose the rootstock," he says. Why? Because of the way rootstock interacts with the soil. "For many, many years we've been looking at the climate, which is important," says Papa. "We've been looking at the clonal material, but we forget the vase. The vase is in the soil." Perhaps one day, like clones, rootstock names will be proclaimed on a wine label near you.

Anderson Valley

Located in a remote NW corner of Mendocino County, the 14-mile long Anderson Valley AVA is a study in extremes. The vineyards are largely located on hillsides and sloping benches along the two mountain ranges that define the narrow valley. The sandstone-derived soils are particularly well-drained and convey firm structural elements to the wines. Chardonnays from these sites tend towards high natural acidity and savory flavors.

How to Get Into Wine: Practical Tips to Grow Your Palate, Experience and Enjoyment

There's no right or wrong way to learn about wine. Maybe you start by buying a different bottle each time you go to the store. Or you attend a tasting and sample something interesting with a friend. Perhaps you take a course and study the people, places and techniques involved. No matter where you start, the most important thing to remember is that the journey is yours. Be Open Minded The first wine you taste might be something approachable, like a Moscato or Prosecco. The most common misconception new wine lovers have is that most wines will be just as sweet and easy-drinking as that first sip. Often, the transition from sweet or fizzy wines to dry or more nuanced bottles requires a little guidance. You might not enjoy every wine you try, and that's O.K. Start to expand your palate by sampling more fruit-forward wines with less residual sugar. That missing sweetness will be very noticeable at first, but keep an open mind. Focus on the fruit. Do you taste berries? Plums? Green apples? Lemons? Wine Tasting Terms and What They Really Mean Zero in on specific flavors first, and then decide whether you find that glass enjoyable. Even if you don't like this particular citrus-scented Pinot Grigio, you might enjoy the next one you try. All wines are not created equal. You're bound to find one that piques your interest. Drink Everything You can't grow your palate without tasting as many wines as you can. This is the fun (and potentially expensive) part of the journey. Sample as many styles, grape varieties, countries and winemakers as you can. The more wines you try, the more you'll discover and the more you'll love. Consider a Course Two of the most widely available wine educational institutions are the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET) and the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). Each provides professional designations, but enthusiasts and industry professionals alike take these courses to expand their knowledge. If you're in the early stages of your wine journey, try classes that focus on the basics. Do some research to find the teacher and course best for you. Enjoy the Accessories From beautiful wine glasses to ornate decanters, corkscrews, refrigerators and every gadget in between, there are so many cool things that make wine even more enjoyable. Splurge only on the accessories you'll use most often, and enjoy them each time you pour a glass. Journey Around the World Through Your Glass Wine gives you the ability to travel around the world from the comfort of your own home. Each wine expresses itself differently depending on its terroir—the climate, soil, terrain and tradition where it's made. Where a grape is grown is just as important as the person growing the grapes and making the final product. If you discover more about what it takes to go from grape to glass, you can also learn the history, legacy and traditions of people you may never meet. Try Everything Again The more wine you sample, the more that you'll train your palate to discover new flavors. As your palate adapts to drinking more wines void of residual sugars and made with a higher quality standard, you'll probably enjoy more types and styles of wine than you did initially. It's a good idea to revisit some of the wines you weren't a fan of in the beginning of your journey. This allows you to see how much your palate has grown. Regardless of where your journey began, it's important to know that everyone will not end up in the same place. Each person has individual preferences affected by diet, allergies, associations and many other factors we can't always control. It's perfectly fine to not enjoy the same wines as your favorite wine professional or enthusiast. Your journey should be approached with the desire to learn, grow and fall deeper in love with wine.

Primary vs tertiary wine aromas: what's the difference?

How can smells of truffle, leather and raspberry fruit live in harmony in your wine glass? Here is a brief explanation of the key differences between primary, secondary and tertiary wine aromas. Chris MercerJune 4, 2020 Ask Decanter Highlights Wine aromas at-a-glance: Primary aromas, such as fruit and floral smells, come from the grape variety itself. Secondary aromas are broadly derived from the winemaking process. Tertiary aromas develop as wine ages. From lemon zest to colouring crayons, wine aromas come in all shapes and sizes - some more personal in nature and others accepted as broadly conventional descriptions for a particular style. A Rockefeller University study in 2014 estimated that humans can detect more than one trillion smells. Whether or not we could hope to describe that many scents is another matter, but it is just one study of many that emphasises the importance of using your nose when it comes to wine tasting. The science around the development of wine aromas, and their relationship, is an ongoing area of study. But, it's common for professional wine tasters to split key aromas into three broad categories. Primary wine aromas This is all about the initial smells and aromas considered to emerge from the grape variety itself, whether it's the grapefruit in your rosé, the mix of menthol and rich cassis in some young Cabernet Sauvignon wines or that lychee note in your glass of Gewürztraminer. Floral and some spice aromas, from rose and violet to ginger, can also come into play here, and you'll find more specific examples on our Tasting Notes Decoded page. Some wines, such as Shiraz / Syrah can exhibit black pepper, although this may be easier to spot on the palate. 'Peppery notes in wine tend to come from particular grape varieties rather than as a product of the winemaking process,' said Decanter's Rhône expert, Matt Walls, in this article explaining the difference between black and white pepper. Climate and winemaking decisions, from harvest dates to handling in the cellar, can affect the intensity and complexion of the aromas, of course. Riper styles of Chardonnay in warmer climates might naturally lean towards the tropical end of the fruit spectrum, while a Chablis on the northern fringe of Burgundy is more generally associated with apple and stone fruit - as this example from William Fèvre shows. If a winemaker has purposefully sought to emphasise the fruit, such as by fermenting in stainless steel or perhaps concrete tanks with little or no oak contact, then you can expect more primary aromas to dominate. Secondary aromas These are the key aromas that are understood as being derived from the winemaking cellar, although it is somewhat open to interpretation. As the late, great Gerard Basset OBE MW MS replied in a response to a Decanter reader question in 2016, 'In serious wine-tasting manuals, such as the classic The Taste of Wine by professor Emile Peynaud, secondary aroma is used in relation to the smell of fermentation. 'Therefore, if no fruit or floral aromas are apparent in a young wine and what you get is more of a "winey" smell, you could refer to that as secondary aroma. 'To me, the term "secondary aroma" should refer to all the smells of vinification, not just fermentation - in effect all the smells that are neither from the grape nor from ageing.' Examples include vanilla spice or toasty notes from oak, especially new, American barrels, or the buttery, creamy texture that can be a tell-tale sign of malolactic fermentation; a process that softens acidity in a wine by converting malic acid into lactic acid. Lees contact - which could perhaps be considered part of the ageing process by some - is mainly responsible for those bread-like, brioche notes, which can be found in some Champagnes. Tertiary aromas 'Tertiary aroma (or its synonym 'bouquet') is used when the aromas are due to ageing,' said Basset. 'Wines capable of ageing will lose part, or almost all, of their primary aroma and after a few years will develop superb aromas of maturation.' Have you ever put your nose to the floor of a forest? If so, you might find aromas resonant of that experience in some bottle-aged red wines. Other common tertiary notes for red wines include leather, truffle, cigar box, tobacco, cedar and mushroom, to name only a few. 'Top Cabernet Sauvignon wines with some bottle age often smell of tobacco, wet leaves and other complex aromas,' said Basset. Decanter Italy specialist Michaela Morris wrote recently of Gaja's Sperss Barolo from 1996, 'The nose is extraordinary - immediately appealing with dried bay leaf, black tea, leather and tar.' In white wines, nutty, mushroom or honey notes can develop, while petrol or kerosene is often associated with aged Riesling wines - albeit, not everyone enjoys this aspect. This is merely an introductory overview, and it's worth remembering that winemakers and vineyard managers must make decisions at every step of the process that will affect the profile of the wine aromas in your glass. An array of other factors, such as acidity, the character of the tannins, alcohol and the body of the wine, can all affect the final taste, too, of course. This article was originally published as an 'ask Decanter' article in 2016 but has been updated and extended in June 2020.

Why a Champagne Flute Often Isn't the Best Choice for Your Bubbly

A white wine glass or similar will enhance your fine Champagne much better. Written by Jake Emen Updated 05/18/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Laura Sant For generations of imbibers, the Champagne flute radiated elegance, and anyone wielding a bubbles-filled flute was conferred with a dose, or perhaps dosage, of class. While the flute hasn't lost its appeal entirely—it's still widely used and generally seen as both a sexy and sometimes sensible choice—more winemakers, sommeliers and everyday sparkling wine lovers are being enlightened to a notion that was once considered taboo: the idea that the flute is not the best vessel for appreciating a fine Champagne. It's worth first taking a moment to think about why the flute and Champagne became such fast friends. According to Moët & Chandon chef de cave Benoît Gouez, the narrow design of the flute was first called into duty as a means of wrangling unwieldy sediment. Champagne was commonly served with, or as, dessert, and if a glass was filled during dinnertime, then the sediment would have collected nicely and neatly at the thin glass's bottom by the time a drinker was ready to partake. Yet the flute largely has stood the test of time despite the fact that disgorgement—the removal of the lees from a bottle of Champagne—began as a practice more than 200 years ago. The result for the modern-day drinker then is that we've been suffocating our sparkling and hindering our own full enjoyment of its finest expressions. Champagne Is Wine—Treat It as Such "Drinking Champagne from a wider glass rather than a thin flute allows us to experience more of the aromatic spectrum," says sommelier Daniel Braun, the owner of Princeville Wine Market on the island of Kauai. It's easy to regard Champagne as a category in and of itself. However, it's wise to remember that it is, indeed, a type of wine. The tendency of drinkers to ignore that is largely responsible for keeping the flute en vogue, despite industry-wide recognition that it's not always the ideal glass. "It's not a Champagne, it's a wine from Champagne," says Gouez. "This type of wine is one that really needs to breathe and reveal all of its layers." Peek into many of Champagne's finest houses, and you're likely to find a flute dissenter. Maximilian Riedel, the 11th-generation CEO of his family's glassware company, says he was inspired to take up the fight and design a new glass for Champagne after seeing that Taittinger never used flutes. "That's why I started it and became motivated to take a stand and change the way people drink Champagne," says Riedel. The result was a glass with a wider, though still constrained, lip, which then flares out partway down the bowl before constricting again into a still-slim bottom. Godefroy Baijot, the head of Besserat de Bellefon, advocates using a blida, a type of small, stemless glass used by locals in the Champagne region. Whether painted or in mismatched styles, they're easily packed into a bag for the park or the beach and are named for the city in Algeria where they became widespread for drinking tea. As for the type of glassware Braun prefers, he looks to the world of white wine specifically. "I mostly prefer to drink Champagne from a white wine glass that has a lip with a slightly smaller radius than the base of the glass," he says. "If the glass has too much of a bowl, then the carbon dioxide itself can become too pronounced. Many glassware companies are making Champagne glasses that incorporate characteristics of both the thin flute and bowl shape, and these can be a great compromise." But Don't Kill the Flute Yet While Riedel takes a hard line with the personal belief that Champagne should never be served in a flute, others are a bit more flexible. Not only do flutes still send a festive signal, but in such a soiree setting, when glasses of bubbles may be poured and left sitting for a time before being passed around, they're actually useful in a different way. "There are many occasions that call for a flute, and I prefer to use them in settings where I may be concerned with a Champagne losing too much carbonation," says Braun. The narrow flute helps a glass of sparkling to retain its satisfying effervescence for a longer period. Conversely, the still-common coupe glass encourages the loss of bubbles even more rapidly—the least-desirable outcome. There's also the matter of the type of Champagne or sparkling wine being enjoyed. While Braun always opts for a white wine glass for blanc de blanc Champagnes, for instance, he doesn't break out that type of glassware for a rosè Champagne unless it's a vintage release and therefore noted for its quality. Allowing a wine's aromatics to more fully express themselves works best when you're confident of the results. "The traditional flute may still be our best option much of the time, as not every sparkling wine is meant to stand up to the test of increased scrutiny," says Braun. "I would stick to a regular flute for most cava, prosecco and crémant."

All About White Wine: What to Know and What to Drink

An essential introduction to the major grape varieties and winemaking styles. Written by Vicki Denig Updated 09/11/20 Pin Share Email Image: Getty Images / EAQ Whether pairing with foods or sipping solo, there's really not a time or a place where a crisp glass of white doesn't fit the bill. However, not all white wines are created equal. Knowing the difference between major grape varieties and winemaking styles is key to finding that perfect pour for every occasion. How It's Made White wine is produced all over the world from an array of grape varieties and regions. Most white wines are produced from direct-pressed juice from white grapes, meaning that grapes are harvested and brought back to the winery, and their juice is immediately pressed out of them (meaning it has little to no "skin contact"). The ways in which this juice is vinified post-pressing varies from winemaker to winemaker, but that's what makes the world of white wine so exciting. Post-pressing, the juice is fermented with either naturally occurring (spontaneous/native) or cultivated yeasts in a variety of vessels. Steel, oak and cement are the most common vessels for vinification and aging. The Effects of Steel, Oak and Cement Many white wines are vinified entirely in steel, because this material keeps oxygen out of the vessel and preserves natural acidity in the juice. (In wine, acidity is a good and desirable thing.) At the other end of the spectrum, vinification and aging in an oak barrel allows a very small amount of oxygen to come in contact with the juice. This adds a variety of textures as well as layered flavors to a given wine. Cement aging is somewhat of a hybrid of the two, in that cement provides an oxidative environment without imparting oak-driven flavors to the wine. Defining Oakiness When fermented and/or aged in oak, white wines tend to take on notes of vanilla, baking spice, cinnamon, clove, coconut and other flavors. Although these flavors tend to give the sensation of being warm and soft on the palate, they are not technically "sweet," as oak vinification does not add any residual sugar to the vinification process. (And forget the bad things you've heard about "oaky" wines. Although over-oaked juice certainly can be unpleasant, white wines with well-integrated oak can provide some of the most delicious drinking experiences you'll ever have.) Foods for Pairing Food pairings often depend on the wine's acidity and structure. For light-bodied wines that are crisp, refreshing and high in acid, we recommend serving up some equally fresh salads or salty raw bar snacks. White wines with a bit more body and structure can handle slightly heavier cuisines (think roasted poultry, grilled fish and pungent cheeses). White wines with a bit of residual sugar are perfect for pairing with dishes that pack a bit of heat, such as spicy Indian or Thai. Getty Images / F.J. Jimenez The Most Common White Grape Varieties Chardonnay: Chardonnay is the grape that can do it all. It's planted in just about every wine-producing region around the world, since its ability to thrive in an array of climates and soil types is practically endless. Because of its malleable nature, chardonnay is vinified in a variety of styles (usually medium- to full-bodied) and in an array of vessels. For a balanced and straightforward expression, check out the below expression from Sandhi. The wine is produced in Santa Barbara and beautifully meshes an Old World mentality with New World fruit. Early picking and meticulous oak integration lead to the best of both worlds.Try: Sandhi ($23) Sauvignon blanc: Like chardonnay, sauvignon blanc is grown in a variety of soils and regions around the globe. In warm and sunny New World regions (think Marlborough, New Zealand and California's Napa Valley), sauvignon-blanc-based wines tend to show flavors of tropical fruit, citrus and grass. In Old World regions like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, these wines tend to show more earthy rock-driven flavors marked by citrus-like acidity.Try: François Chidaine ($17) (France), Lieu Dit ($23) (California) Pinot grigio: Pinot grigio (called pinot gris in Francophone growing regions) has long been associated with cheap mass-produced whites from Italy. Although these wines unfortunately do still exist, high-quality pinot grigio from a reputable producer can be a revelatory experience. When produced at the right hands, pinot grigio is usually copper-hued, floral-driven and super easy to drink. Try this bottle from Alto Adige for a delicious example.Try: Alois Lageder ($14) Riesling: If there's one thing you learn from this white wine primer, let it be this: Not all riesling is sweet. When vinified dry, riesling produces some of the most high-acid and thirst-quenching white wines on the market. For a delicious bone-dry expression, check out Empire Estate. For an off-dry wine that's perfect for pairing with spicy takeout, Peter Lauer's Barrel X is the way to go.Try: Empire Estate ($17), Peter Lauer Barrel X ($21) Chenin blanc: Never heard of chenin blanc? There's no better time than the present. This high-acid grape is best known for its French (Loire Valley) and South African expressions, though the grape is cultivated in the United States, Australia and beyond. These wines are beloved for their ripe and medium- to full-bodied flavor profiles, though in well-made expressions, the grape's high amount of natural acidity keeps them in check. Think of them as adult apple juice, only better.Try: Badenhorst Secateurs ($16)

Wineries Strive for Carbon Neutrality. Is It Enough?

Devastating wildfires in California and Australia. Record-high temperatures and droughts in Europe. Grape varieties that thrive in once-unlikely places. The effects of climate change on winemaking around the globe are not theoretical; they're here and they're real. Enter carbon neutrality. The idea is that wineries can offset their environmental impact by switching to renewable energy sources like wind, reducing or eliminating chemical sprays, using smarter packaging like lighter-weight bottles, and purchasing carbon credits from nonprofits. Some wineries seek or proudly tout carbon neutral certifications awarded by third parties like Natural Capital Partners. Carbon neutrality has become the environmental badge for wineries wanting to combat climate change. But is it enough? Alex Katz launched Protector Cellars, which he believes is the world's first climate-positive winery, in 2020 / Photo courtesy Protector Cellars "Being carbon neutral doesn't help, we're going to stay where we are," says Dr. Robert Boulton, a distinguished professor emeritus in the department of viticulture and enology at University of California, Davis. "If we all went carbon neutral tomorrow, we're still going to have the wildfires, we're still going to have the ice caps melting because we did nothing about reversing 120 years of carbon releases. "We're sort of [fed] the misinformation that it really isn't a problem if you're carbon neutral." Becca Yeamans Irwin, an environmental scientist and author of the website The Academic Wino, agrees. "Offsetting your carbon emissions by reducing them someplace else is admirable, but the fact of the matter is you are still putting out the 'bad emissions' in the first place, which should ultimately be reduced, and not just offset," she says. Industry leaders like Boulton and Porto Protocol, a group dedicated to reverse the effects of climate change, believe that wineries should not only capture or mitigate their carbon output, but remove more carbon from the atmosphere than they produce. Think of it as beyond carbon neutral. Protector's wines are canned to lessen their carbon footprint / Courtesy Protector Cellars Winemaker Alex Katz spent a decade noticing changes in California's climate. Harvests were coming earlier and the wildfire threat grew exponentially. "We are in an agricultural industry, we are completely dependent on the environment, and the environment is changing around us," he says. In early 2020, Katz launched Protector Cellars, which he believes is the world's first climate-positive winery. He looked at all parts of the winemaking process that caused carbon to be released and started to tackle them, one by one. He purchased grapes only from certified sustainable vineyards. He chose to can his wines after he learned that bottles are one of winemaking's biggest sources of carbon output. Katz also partnered with the nonprofit Trees for the Future to offset unavoidable carbon emissions. "The guiding principle was that if I look at every aspect of the industry and my production process, how can I do better from a carbon impact standpoint without negatively impacting the quality of the wine?" asks Katz. Through his efforts, Katz believes he has been able to create a climate positive winery. According to Boulton, such thinking is vital to ensure the environmental and economic feasibility of the entire wine industry. "If you don't have a plan for being sustainable 50 years from now, you won't be here," he says. One of the most meaningful side effects of Cullen Wines' biodynamic practices is the winery's a net-positive carbon impact / Photo by Frances Andrijich Photography Environmental stewardship has always been the driving force behind Cullen Wines, founded in 1966 in the Margaret River region of Southwestern Australia. "It's part of having ethical business practices," says Vanya Cullen, the winery's second-generation owner and winemaker. For Cullen, going beyond carbon neutral is a natural next step. In 2003, Cullen Wines switched from organic to biodynamic production. The movement wasn't very popular at the time in Australia. "There was a lot of negativity and outright hostility," she says. Still, she pushed on. One of the most meaningful side effects of her biodynamic practices is the winery has net-positive carbon impact. "We measured the carbon over six years and...we were carbon positive," she says. "Our vineyard last year sequestered 75 tons of carbon per hectare." Through careful accounting, Cullen determined that Cullen Wines emitted around 4,000 tons of carbon in 2019 and ended the year with 80 tons of extra carbon sequestered in its soil. "Our carbon neutral-certifying body had never had it happen before," she says. While the sustainability measures cost the winery around $25,000 Australian dollars per year (a little more than $18,000 U.S.), Cullen estimates that she has around four times that amount in sequestered carbon on her property that she would otherwise have to pay to offset. "We are in an agricultural industry, we are completely dependent on the environment, and the environment is changing around us." —Alex Katz, Protector Cellars There are steps that the industry can make to encourage more wineries to adopt carbon-positive operations. Cullen and Boulton think a global marketplace where wineries could sell their extra carbon credits to those who needed to purchase offsets would help—in essence, it would create a carbon trading system that would financially reward climate-positive winemaking. "There isn't any kind of significant program for small producers to sell their carbon," says Boulton. "Small producers can't sell their carbon captured on the vine." As industry-led initiatives like the Porto Protocol gain more members, and a new generation of wine drinkers was raised with climate crisis education, carbon-positive operations could become the standard for wineries that take their environmental stewardship seriously. "It has to be the gold standard of sustainability in any place," says Katz. "It's become clear that the industry is not sustainable with the current path the planet is on." In the Era of Climate Change, is Old and New World Wine Obsolete? Systemic changes take time, but so does everything in wine. Perhaps an industry so accustomed to measuring time in decades and generations is uniquely suited to this challenge. "If it took us 120 years to get out of balance, it's reasonable to say it might take us 100 years to get back, or 25 years if we're really serious," says Boulton. "But what's wrong with taking 25 years to do something when it took you 120 years to get here in the first place?"

1940S CHARDONNAY'S ADAPTABILITY ATTRACTS ATTENTION

The University of California recommends Chardonnay as a desirable variety due to its adaptability.

A Beginner's Guide to Hybrid Grapes

Most of the wines we enjoy today are produced from Vitis vinifera, the European grapevine species responsible for well-known grapes like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir. But as technology and viticulture advances, more winemakers turn to a category of grapes known as hybrids. Hybrid grapes, made by crossing European Vitis vinifera vines with American Vitis labrusca or Vitis riparia grapes, were originally cultivated in response to phylloxera. After the pest destroyed most of the vineyards in Europe in the late 1800s, grape breeders experimented with new insect- and disease-resistant grapes that wouldn't be as affected by the pest or other issues like rot, mildew or cold temperatures. While these hybrids provided a solution, they weren't widely embraced in Europe. Winemakers found the flavors, tannins and acid structure of Vitis vinifera grapes more favorable than hybrid varieties, often thought to produce simpler wines with musky aromas and flavors. Until recently, hybrid grapes were largely banned in European wine regions. The Truth Behind Your Favorite Wines Today, less than 5% of vineyards globally are planted with hybrid grapes, according to Dr. José Vouillamoz, a Swiss grape geneticist and co-author of Wine Grapes. But as climate change affects many areas, winemakers have begun to embrace new grapes. Growers in the Languedoc-Roussillon and Bordeaux are among the first in France to make wines with these resistant cultivars. In North America, there's a rich history of farming hybrids. Many were developed at Cornell University and the University of Minnesota. In places like Vermont, Michigan, Canada and the Finger Lakes region of New York, hybrid grapes like Chambourcin, Vidal Blanc or Marquette have been grown for decades. Many now refine the wines produced with them, and wine lovers have slowly warmed up to their potential. Here's a guide to some of the most common hybrid grapes and the regions that make unique, compelling wines with them. A vineyard of Frontenac Blanc grapes in Quebec, Canada/Getty White Hybrid Grapes Cabernet Doré In 2001, Lucian Dressel of Davis Viticultural Research created Cabernet Doré. The unique crossing of Cabernet Sauvignon and the red hybrid Norton yielded a white grape, likely a recessive gene from Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon's parent. Its characteristics are similar to its green-skinned grandparent, with a creamier texture and more floral notes like Muscat or Sémillon. Only a handful of states have vineyards planted to it, many located in the Midwest. Cayuga The Cayuga White grape was developed at Cornell in 1945 and later released for use in 1972, intended for the nearby Finger Lakes region, where it appears in many sparkling wines. Outside of New York, Cayuga is grown in Vermont and Pennsylvania, where it can range in style from dry and citrusy to rich, late-harvest dessert wines. Chardonel A crossing of Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc, Chardonel was developed at Cornell in 1953, and it was released and named in 1990. In the vineyard, Chardonel is similar to Chardonnay and maintains its distinctive acidity. It grows well in Michigan and Arkansas. Vidal Blanc grapes/Getty La Crescent One of the most cold-hardy grapes, La Crescent was named after a small town in Minnesota, where it was developed by University of Minnesota breeders and released in 2002. The grape has high sugar and acidity levels, and it's often used to create sweet or semisweet wines that exude stone fruit, citrus and tropical aromas. Seyval Blanc One of the most widely planted hybrids east of the Rocky Mountains, Seyval Blanc was first created by Bertille Seyve in France. It produces fresh, crisp wines ripe with attractive citrus, peach and grassy aromas. The grape is popular in Canada, the American Midwest, New York and England, where it's commonly blended into sparkling wines. Traminette Released by Cornell University in 1996, this grape is a cross of Gewürztraminer and a French-American hybrid, Joannes Seyve 23.416. Traminette possesses similar floral and spicy aromatic properties common to Gewürztraminer, while still being resistant to fungal diseases and cold climates. It's planted along the East Coast and Midwest, where it was chosen by the Indiana Wine Grape Council as the state's signature wine. Vidal Blanc Developed in France in the 1930s by Jean Louis Vidal, Vidal Blanc, often shortened to just "Vidal," is compared sometimes to Riesling. Depending on where it's grown, Vidal might be crisp and citrusy, or more pineapple and floral. A crossing of Ugni Blanc and the hybrid variety, Rayon d'Or, Vidal Blanc is grown widely around the Great Lakes, where the thick-skinned grape is used to make ice wine in Ontario and the Finger Lakes. It's also used to make dry wines in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York and Virginia. Climate Change and Canada's Icewine Industry Red Hybrid Grapes Baco Noir This dark-skinned variety has berry and black cherry flavors capable of channeling those of Beaujolais or the Rhône Valley. Created by Francois Baco during the phylloxera epidemic in France, Baco Noir is one of the few hybrid grapes permitted historically in a European appellation, where it's grown in Gascony to make Armagnac brandy. In North America, it's grown primarily in Canada, New York, Oregon and Nova Scotia. Catawba Marked for its pronounced "foxy" or musky flavor, this purple-hued grape is believed to have originated somewhere along the East Coast of the U.S., where it's still grown predominantly around Lake Erie and the Finger Lakes. It's the likely cross of Sémillon and an unknown Vitis labrusca variety. Catawba played an important role in early American winegrowing, but it's fallen out of favor as more favorable hybrids have been discovered. Its clonal mutation, Pink Catawba, is used to make rosé, which is sweeter and lower in acidity. It resembles a white Zinfandel. Chambourcin Johannes Seyve 11369 and Plantet were crossed to make Chambourcin, the work of French biochemist Joannes Seyve (son of Bertille). Considered one of the best French-American hybrids, Chambourcin is a teinturier variety, a red grape with both dark skin and flesh. It creates vibrant, aromatic red wines often higher in tannins than other hybrid-based bottlings. The widely planted grape can be found in Ontario, the U.S. Midwest and on the East Coast as far south as North Carolina. Frontenac Noir Grapes/Getty Frontenac Sometimes referred to as Frontenac Noir, this complex cross of the hybrid Landot Noir with a native Vitis riparia vine was developed at the University of Minnesota in 1978 and was released in 1996. Then, in 2003, a grey-berried mutation of the grape called Frontenac Gris was released, with the white-fruited mutation, Frontenac Blanc, in 2012. The dark-skinned Frontenac has enjoyed success in Minnesota, where it's one of the most commonly planted wine grapes, as well as in Vermont, where it's used to make rustic pétillant-naturel wines. Marquette This blue-berried hybrid, a grandchild of Pinot Noir, was created in 1989 at the University of Minnesota and released for public use in 2006. Like Chambourcin, Marquette is a teinturier variety, with blue-tinged skin and colored flesh inside. It's a versatile grape that can be fragrant and fruity, or exude more complex characteristics like tobacco and leather. Known for its hardiness in cold weather, it can be found mostly in Minnesota, Vermont and New York. Norton Norton was cultivated during the early 1800s in Richmond, Virginia, where Dr. Daniel Norton first planted it in his vineyards. Soon after, it became the dominant wine grape on the East Coast, as well as in Midwestern states like Ohio. Most of those vines were ripped up during Prohibition and replanted with Concord grapes. In recent years, winemakers in Virginia and Missouri have worked to revive the hybrid grape, whose parentage is still unknown.

What is a sommelier? - ask Decanter

A good sommelier can seriously improve your dining and wine drinking experience, but the profession doesn't only relate to working front-of-house at restaurants. Chris MercerOctober 6, 2020 Credit: Photo by Louis Hansel @shotsoflouis on on Unsplash Ask Decanter Highlights A sommelier might sometimes be called a 'wine waiter' or also 'wine steward'. These are slightly clunky terms that attempt to convey the sommelier's pivotal role in helping you to decipher a wine list, predominantly in restaurants, and subsequently enjoy the contents of your chosen bottle in the best condition. They can also help to advise on which wines may work well with particular dishes on the menu, from classic pairing advice to helping you find a red wine that matches with fish. Behind the scenes, a sommelier may work closely with the kitchen team or chef in order to curate exciting food and wine pairings, particularly on tasting menus. Other roles and responsibilities might include devising and pricing-up a wine list from scratch, as well as sourcing the wine and ensuring it is stored properly. This could be part of a 'wine director' role for a restaurant or hotel group, which might also include managing a team of sommeliers and other professionals across the business. Other sommeliers have gone on to start their own restaurants and bars. Given the sheer number of great wines being produced all around the world these days, the breadth of knowledge required by sommeliers is significant. It's little wonder that a scientific study found in 2016 that the part of the brain believed to control sensory perception was physically thicker among Master Sommeliers. Alongside impressive wine skills, sommeliers working front-of-house must also be able to quickly relate to a wide range of customers walking through the restaurant door. As Andrew Jefford, now co-chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), once noted, 'A really good sommelier is a kind of speed-dating psychologist. He or she can work out what sort of person you are, how well off you are and what you really fancy most with a few sentences of chat — and then take you there quickly, picking up on any hints you drop along the way.' In an article for Decanter earlier this year, Los Angeles-based sommelier and wine writer Matthew Luczy suggested that traditional restaurant roles and structures could change following the impact of Covid-19. Many sommeliers have faced a particularly difficult time alongside the wider hospitality industry in 2020, with venues forced to close or limit business in order to comply with government rules designed to subdue the pandemic. Beyond the restaurant Many sommeliers have used their extensive training and knowledge to explore different parts of the wine world, from making wine to judging bottles, running their own businesses and consulting, authoring books and articles, as well as setting up wine shops or overseeing education programmes. Decanter contributor Elin McCoy wrote in 2017 of the rise of the 'super somms', particularly in the US and UK. 'Sommeliers have become the wine counterpart to celebrity chefs,' she wrote. One high-profile example of a sommelier-turned-winemaker highlighted by McCoy is Rajat Parr, co-owner at Sandhi Wines and Domaine de la Côte, which have done much to focus attention on the quality of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County, California. MS vs MW: What's the difference? Ask Decanter Becoming a sommelier There is no fixed route to becoming a sommelier, but several organisations offer courses and qualifications that can help to develop practical knowledge either in preparation for, or alongside, getting experience in a restaurant or bar. Examples include the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) exams, which are recognised across the industry and focus on wine knowledge and tasting skills. As its name suggests, the Court of Master Sommeliers oversees the notoriously difficult Master Sommelier diploma programme. That is the pinnacle of its four-stage qualification system. The other three stages, in order, are: Introductory Sommelier Certificate Certified Sommelier Examination Advanced Sommelier Certificate Le Cordon Bleu London also has a range of wine and gastronomy courses, including an 'internship pathway' that allows students to gain experience in top restaurants. The International Sommelier Guild, based in US and Canada, also runs several courses.

From fish and chips, to grilled sardines, classic sole meunière, ceviche and sushi, discover the right wines to pair with any fish dish Julie SheppardJuly 18, 2020 Credit: Stella de Smit on Unsplash Food and wine pairing Highlights Whether eating out or cooking at home, pescatarians are regularly spoiled for choice. Not only is there a wide diversity of species, but fish is a versatile ingredient that can be cooked in different ways - and even enjoyed raw. This means that you'll find an array of grapes and wine styles that will pair with fish. Tradition dictates that you should always match white wine with fish, but in some cases red wine can make an ideal pairing - as can rosé. It all depends on the type of fish you're eating and how it's prepared. Both texture and flavour are key here. Fish can broadly be divided into four groups: Lean and flaky mild fish - plaice, sole, perch Medium-textured fish - trout, seabass, haddock, cod Meaty fish - salmon, tuna, monkfish, swordfish Strong-flavoured fish - herring, mackerel, sardines, anchovies Within these groups there are some general guidelines. Delicate white fish fillets need a lighter white wine; think Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Albariño or Grüner Veltiner. Meanwhile meatier fish like tuna can stand up to more robust flavours such as oaked Chardonnay, Viognier or rosé. But how a fish is cooked - grilling, baking, frying or on the barbecue - will help to narrow down your wine choice. So too will the other ingredients in the dish. For example, fish served with a creamy sauce will need a wine with high acidity to cleanse the palate between bites. Spicy fish dishes call for a wine with some sweetness to balance the heat of the spices. White, flaky fish fillets Delicate and mild-flavoured fishes, such as plaice, sole and tilapia can be prepared quickly and easily by grilling or baking, and simply served with lemon and herbs. Italian whites are a natural match. As well as the ever-popular Pinot Grigio, look for grapes such as Vermentino, Fiano and Grillo, which makes fresh, lemony wines. Island whites from Sicily and Sardinia sometimes have a fresh salty tang that works well with simply grilled fish too. Broadly speaking, whites from coastal wine regions are a safe bet with fish. Think Portuguese Vinho Verde, featuring the Alvarinho grape, or its Spanish cousin Albariño from Rías Baixas. Greek Assyrtiko, particularly from the island of Santorini is another great choice. Wines like Assyrtiko, with high natural acidity, work well with delicate white fish in creamy sauces or cooked in butter. An unoaked Chardonnay, such as Chablis is a reliable choice, so too bone-dry Muscadet from the Loire Valley - which is also one of the classic matches for oysters and other seafood. Speaking of classic matches, a good, subtly oaked white Burgundy makes a perfect partner with grilled lemon sole or Dover sole meunière (fried in butter with a dusting of flour). Textured white fish Ocean dwellers such as cod, halibut, haddock and sea bass can also be categorised as flaky white fish, but with bigger flakes and a more robust texture, they tend to be used in dishes with richer sauces, spices and strong-flavoured herbs. This means you can opt for a more robust white wine, maybe with some oak or bottle age. Try styles such as aged White Rioja or Loire Valley Chenin Blanc. Exotic, spicy Alsace whites made from Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris, possibly with a touch of residual sugar, will pair well with Asian-spiced textured white fish dishes. Similarly for spicy fish tacos choose an aromatic Austrian Grüner Veltliner or German Riesling - again with a touch of sweetness to temper the spice. While ceviche, the vibrant South American dish of raw fish marinated in citrus juices, will pair well with Argentinian Torrontés or Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Herbs such as dill, tarragon, parsley, chives, marjoram and lemongrass all work particularly well with fish. Herby fish dishes call for wines that complement those flavours with their own vibrant herbal notes. Sauvignon Blanc - either fresh, zesty versions from New Zealand or more restrained herbaceous styles from the Loire Valley - makes a reliable option. If your cod or haddock is fried in batter - either a light Japanese tempura or the classic fish and chips - look for a fresh, dry white with high acidity to counter the fattiness. Again Alvarinho/Albariño or a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Chile or New Zealand will work well. But the truly winning combination with fried fish is a dry fizz, as the combination of bubbles and high acidity effortlessly cut through the batter. A blanc de blancs Champagne ticks the box neatly for a decadent choice, but you'll find blanc de blanc sparklers from all around the world at a variety of price points. Meaty and pink fish When you're pairing wines with fish that has a more meaty texture - such as swordfish or monkfish - as well as pink-fleshed fishes like tuna and salmon, the range of styles to choose from increases, as rosés and lighter reds will often work better than whites. For example a chilled New World Pinot Noir would match equally well with seared tuna or seared salmon. Dry rosés pair especially well with all kinds of salmon dishes - and you needn't stick to still wines. Try sparkling rosé with smoked salmon; the texture of the bubbles makes a brilliant contrast with the soft fattiness of the fish. A fruity rosé Champagne can even stand up to the chargrilled flavours of barbecued salmon. As always, the golden rule is to think not only about the fish itself, but how it is cooked and what ingredients it's served with. Grapes and styles including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, manzanilla Sherry, Pinot Noir and English sparkling are among the many options for pairing with salmon depending on the dish. Pairings with tuna dishes are similarly versatile. Juicy reds such as Beaujolais or Chinon, Austrian Zweigelt, Italy's underrated Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Dolcetto or Valpolicella, will match grilled, seared and barbecued tuna. But tuna ceviche or carpaccio call for crisp citrus whites such as Picpoul de Pinet or cool-climate Chardonnay. Raw tuna and salmon are of course, also popular ingredients in sushi, with matches including dry mineral whites, Koshu, Pinot Noir, Brunello and Burgundy, depending on the style. Meaty fishes often feature in more robustly spiced Indian cuisine - with dishes such as tandoor-grilled monkfish - as well as Caribbean and Thai curries. Here the combination of spices and heat of the dish are as important as the texture and flavour of the fish, so focus on wine styles that work with spicy food. Fish with strong flavours Oily fish such as mackerel, herrings and sardines carry intense flavours of the sea and need a crisp, bracing wine to match. There are plenty of white (Portugal's Vinho Verde), rosé (Provence) and red (Gamay-based wines that can be served chilled for extra bite) options. Strongly flavoured fish is often simply cooked - after all, it doesn't need much help to enhance its taste - on the grill or barbecue and served just with a squeeze of lemon or herbs. Try barbecue sardines with minerally Albariño, citrus Picpoul de Pinet or Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh tapas-style Mediterranean anchovies are a delight with Iberian whites: Alvarinho, Albariño, Verdejo, Txakoli and salty fino or manzanilla Sherry. Cured anchovies, often used as a pizza topping or with tomato-based pasta sauces like punchy puttanesca, call for a light, juicy red. Italy's Bardolino and Valpolicella are a good call, as are Spanish reds made from the Mencía grape.

Pairing wine with fish: What to choose

15 Italian Grapes Every Rosé Fan Should Know

Pink wine production is nothing new in Italy—in some cases it dates to the Middle Ages. But as global drinkers continue their infatuation with all things rosé, it's useful to take a closer look at the differences among Italy's pink wines, or rosatos. Of the hundreds of grape varieties produced in Italy, a handful of them are used in rosato production, which result in very different wines. Many are the same grapes used in well-known exports like Chianti, Amarone and Barolo. Others are a bit more esoteric, but worth the discovery. Here's a list of some of the major rosato-producing grapes of Italy with Mediterranean origins. Pugliese grapes used to make rosato include Negroamaro, Primitivo and Bombino Nero. Photo by Getty Aglianico The thick-skinned grape behind such structured, ageworthy reds as Campania's Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata also produces approachable, ready-to-drink pink wine. These bold rosatos are rife with bright berry tones and can display floral or mineral nuances, depending on their region of origin. Recently reviewed Agliancio rosatos are here. Bombino Nero Found mostly in the Castel del Monte region of northern Puglia, the bunches of this thin-skinned grape ripen unevenly. This results in juice that is high in acidity and low in sugar, welcome attributes for a zesty, light-bodied rosato. These fruit-forward wines have a wealth of watermelon and citrus tones. Recently reviewed Bombino Nero rosatos are here. Cannonau Though not native to Italy, Cannonau, also known as Grenache in France and Garnacha in Spain, is one of Sardinia's top red varieties. Rosatos labeled under the Cannonau di Sardegna Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) must include at least 85% of the grape. Those labeled under the island-wide Isola dei Nuraghi Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) can contain an assortment of regional grapes like Bovale, Carignano and Monica. A strawberry-pink hue is common in these wines, as is a rounded body with flavors of juicy red berries, crushed flowers and herbs. Recently reviewed Cannonau rosatos are here. A Quick Guide to Rosé Wine Corvina The main component in Valpolicella and Amarone, the name for this grape translates to "little raven" in Italian, perhaps for its deep-purple-hued skins. Since the late 1800s, in Bardolino, on the eastern edge of Lake Garda, it has also been used to create rosatos known locally as Chiaretto. Historically, they were made using the saignée or salasso method, which bleeds off a portion of red wine juice after short contact with the skins to produce a bold rosato. However, many wineries create a pale pink style via earlier harvests and shorter skin contact. These are fresh, zesty and light-bodied, with crisp red berry tones and delicate floral and spice nuances. Recently reviewed Corvina rosatos are here. Gaglioppo This southern Italian variety is likely the crossing of Sangiovese and Mantonico, the latter native to Calabria. Gaglioppo is prominent in the rosato wines of the Cirò appellation, which are typically light burnt-orange in color and offer flavors of tart red berries and herbal spices. The proximity to the sea is important in such a warm region. The moderating effect of the water keeps summer temperatures at bay, which helps to maintain bright, refreshing acidity in the wines. Recently reviewed Gaglioppo rosatos are here. Gropello On the west side of Lake Garda in Lombardy, the compact Gropello grape is used in the delicate pink wines of Riviera del Garda Classico. These rosatos are zesty and crisp, with ample herbal and floral tones alongside crunchy red berry and orchard fruit flavors. Recently reviewed Gropello rosatos are here. Lambrusco Still or sparkling, red or rosato, sweet or dry, wines made from the family of Lambrusco grapes grown in Emilia-Romagna are used in a range of styles. The rosato offerings are typically on the bolder end of the spectrum. Rich cherry, plum and violet tones are balanced out by racy acidity and in some cases, bubbles, which are achieved usually through the Charmat method. Recently reviewed Lambrusco rosatos are here. Of the hundreds of grape varieties produced in Italy, a handful of them are used in rosato production / Getty Lagrein This northern Italian grape finds its home in Alto Adige and Trentino, where it's commonly made into single-variety red wines that are inky and bold. Its rosato production, sometimes labeled Lagrein Kretzer, dates back centuries, and the grape's rich skin yields a bolder style. The ever-present Alpine sun is key to ripen this later-harvesting grape. The gravelly soils soak up its heat and provide warmth against the cool mountain air. Recently reviewed Lagrein rosatos are here. Montepulciano As the most widely planted grape in Abruzzo, Montepulciano is no one-trick pony. While it makes a range of red wine styles, it's also is the driving force behind Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo DOC, the region's deep cherry-hued pink wine offering. The uniquely dark color is a result of the grape's rich pigments found in the skins that yield a bold, structured rosato, but all the while maintaining the juicy berry and herb flavors of the variety. Recently reviewed Montepulciano rosatos are here. Nebbiolo One of Italy's greatest red grapes, Nebbiolo is the sole variety behind ageworthy Barolo and Barbaresco. In the Alto Piemonte regions of Coste della Sesia DOC and Colline Novaresi DOC, the grape is known locally as Spanna, and it's the main component in the regions' rosato offerings. Winemakers can also bottle pink wine under the wide-reaching Langhe DOC region, where Nebbiolo gets blended with other local varieties like Barbera and Dolcetto. Recently reviewed Nebbiolo rosatos are here. Your Cheat Sheet to the Best Italian Rosé Negroamaro Mostly grown in Puglia, this dark purple variety catches its stride in the warm flatlands of the Salento Peninsula. The area's constant sea breezes keep summer temperatures at bay, and the grape's high levels of acidity make it a perfect candidate for rosato. While not uncommon to find examples made solely from the variety, it can be blended with other red grapes like Malvasia Nera or Susumaniello for balance. These rosatos are zesty and crisp, with boisterous tones of grapefruit, melon and spice. Recently reviewed Negroamaro rosatos are here. Nerello Mascalese Best known as the backbone of Etna Rosso, this purple-hued grape also makes savory, racy rosatos. The region's high-altitude vineyards and volcanic soils yield rosatos that walk a fine line between ripeness and tension. The best examples express a unique salinity unlike any other. Recently reviewed Nerello Mascalese rosatos are here. Nero d'Avola While the grape likely originated in Calabria, and is officially called Calabrese in Italy's national registry of grape varieties, this dark purple variety is grown throughout Sicily to yield a host of easy-drinking red and rosato wines. Many rosatos are blended with other varieties like Frappato, Nerello Mascalese, Perricone or Syrah and labeled typically under Sicilia DOC. Recently reviewed Nero d'Avola rosatos are here. Primitivo Known for jammy, dark-berry-inflected red wines, this purple grape also lends well to pink wine production. Single-variety rosato bottlings can be found throughout Puglia, from the inland Murgia region to the Salento Peninsula. These wines often display bombastic berry, spice and floral tones. Recently reviewed Primitivo rosatos are here. Sangiovese This popular Tuscan grape of Chianti and Brunello fame is prized for its bright acidity, which lends elegance and lift to red wines. That zest also lends well to rosato production. Many of these wines are commonly labeled under Toscana IGT. Some producers choose to solely highlight Sangiovese in their rosatos, while others blend with international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon. Recently reviewed Sangiovese rosatos are here.

Q: Which wines have the most resveratrol? Do rosés and white wines have resveratrol?—Rachel, Burbank, Calif.

A: Resveratrol is one of the most studied polyphenols in wine, and scientific research has indicated that it may have many protective properties. Resveratrol content in wine is directly tied to the wine's exposure to grape skins during the winemaking process, so red wines, which undergo maceration with the grape skins, are typically higher in resveratrol than rosés and white wines. Wines made from grapes with thicker skins, like Malbec and Petite Sirah, are likely to have higher resveratrol contents, says Dr. Marie-Pierre St-Onge, professor of nutritional medicine at Columbia University. "Because [grape] skin is kept during some of the production of rosé wines, those types of wines would also have some resveratrol, although [not as much as] red wines." Skin-contact white wines (aka orange wines) will also contain higher levels of resveratrol than conventionally made white wines. Wine is not the only source of resveratrol, however. Regular non-fermented grape juice is high in resveratrol, as are peanuts and peanut butter, cocoa and chocolate, and blueberries and cranberries.—Shawn Zylberberg Have a question about wine and healthy living? E-mail us. Browse our archive of previous questions and answers.

Wines to drink with Christmas duck or goose

Pinot Noir is a classic match for duck if you're planning to veer away from the traditional turkey, but there are always other options. Here are some things to consider, with a selection of wines recently reviewed by Decanter experts. Chris MercerNovember 28, 2020 Credit: Photo by Eric McNew on Unsplash. Christmas Food and wine pairing Highlights Here are some wine options to consider if you're planning to opt for duck or goose this Christmas, drawing on previous advice published on Decanter.com and recommendations from Decanter experts. A few styles to consider for wine with duck or goose this Christmas Pinot Noir Gamay Barbera Rosé Champagne Riesling Pinot Gris Search all Decanter wine reviews here A great quality roast Christmas duck or goose will give you a richer, fattier meat on the festive dinner table compared to turkey. Goose is actually the traditional English bird for Christmas dinner, while duck can offer heaps of flavour without giving you weeks of leftovers if there is a smaller gathering around the table. There are different strategies to food and wine pairing, and you can find a summary of the key ones in this excerpt from The Wine Bible, by wine writer Karen MacNeil. One option for duck or goose is to choose a wine with relatively high acidity that will cut through the fat content of the meat, but which also has the fruit concentration and weight to stand up to the stronger flavour. The particular flavours in a sauce or stuffing mix might also affect your choice. For example, Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, wrote in this previous Decanter article that any white wine paired with classic duck a l'orange 'needs to have enough acidity and a hint of richness to cope with the sauce, yet enough body not to be overwhelmed by the texture of the bird'. He suggested looking to Pinot Gris from Alsace 'with a bit of bottle age', or to Mencia from Spain's Galicia region for red wine. Pinot Gris could also be interesting to try with roast goose. Styles can lean more towards orchard fruit, such as apple and pear, or tropical fruits like pineapple, so it's worth doing some research. Common attributes of ginger spice and also a subtle touch of sweetness may work alongside a goose roasted with a classic five spice mix, for instance. Alternatively, the rich texture and balance of acidity in many top Riesling wines could be interesting to explore. Give a Decanter Premium subscription this Christmas Red wines with roast duck or goose Medium-bodied reds with a good concentration of bright red fruit and relatively high acidity should work well here. Some oak and tannin influence can add depth, but watch out for them overpowering the other elements. Pinot Noir is regularly cited as the go-to wine for duck, although you'll still find styles that differ in intensity and in their balance of aromas. You could also try bolder styles of Gamay wines, such as those from the Morgon cru in Beaujolais. Examples of Gamay can be found elsewhere in the world, from Stellenbosch to Oregon. Barbera, known for delivering delicious red fruit and high acidity, is another good option for duck - as cited by food and wine expert Fiona Beckett, of matchingfoodandwine.com, in an article for Decanter back in 2007. Some fuller-bodied rosé Champagnes have the complexity and freshness to work brilliantly with roast duck, too, and many producers believe their cuvées are widely underrated at the dinner table. Inspiration for pairing wines with duck and goose this Christmas: Allram, Ried Heiligenstein Reserve, Kamptal, 2017 Heiligenstein is a large and varied site, known for its primary rock soils, and it is far from uniform, which explains why so many Rieslings... Dunnolly, Pinot Gris, Waipara, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2019 A textured and bright Pinot Gris from Waipara which is steely, long and lush with papaya, tinned pineapple and tropical fruit, and a keen lick of acidity. Four months on the lees adds mouth-weight and swagger. Points90 Hahn, SLH Pinot Noir, Monterey County, Santa Lucia Highlands, California, 2018 Ripe raspberry, strawberry, and Bing cherry debut with swirls of vanilla and vibrant acidity. Bright, complex and brimming with fresh, forward fruit and easy-going spice, this bottle brings the best of four distinct Santa Lucia Highland vineyards together in a display of balance and remarkable integration. Points91 Dr Loosen, Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, 2018 A classic Mosel ambassador with all the verve, lively acidity and forward fruit one would expect. Off-dry in style with loads of apricot, baked apple, snappy citrus and engaging spice. A defined minerality weaves through the mid-palate and carries on in intensity through the long, clean finish. Points91 Desprat Saint Verny, Le Tracteur Bleu Gamay, Côtes d'Auvergne, 2018 A different take on Gamay, best known for producing Beaujolais, this is heady and seductive yet also fresh and lively. Grown on 100% volcanic soils, the texture is light but the flavours deep and concentrated - blackcurrant, kirsch and cherry on the nose and palate with touches of liquorice spice... Points90 Domaine Jean Sipp, Riesling, Kirchberg, Grand Cru, 2016 + Add to My Wines A complex nose of peach purée, apricot and honeysuckle with tropical touches of freshly cut pineapple. This bursts on the tongue delivering crystalline lemon notes at the back of the mouth alongside crisp red apple and hints of orange zest. A lovely intense wine with layers of flavour and a... Points93 Rocche Costamagna, Barbera d'Alba, Barbera d'Alba, 2018 + Add to My Wines This Barbera represents excellent value for money, and shows there's far more to Piedmont than Barolo. Sweetly fruited and floral, with oodles of fresh primary fruit (blackberry and mulberry), good acidity, and smooth tannins. This is a red with grace and balance. Points92 Marjan Simcic, Opoka Cru Pinot Noir, Goriška Brda, Slovenia, 2016 + Add to My Wines Perfumed red strawberry and raspberry fruits on the nose plus prunes, clove and Pu Erh tea spices. Sweet red berry fruits are balanced by the... Marisco, The King's Wrath Pinot Noir, Marlborough, 2017 + Add to My Wines An energetic and moreish Pinot Noir with typical forest floor notes alongside red cherry, plum and smokey oak flavours. The tannins are soft and smooth and give way to a core of juicy and refreshing acidity on the mid palate. This has focus and drive and is a great-value pick. Points91 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau, Pinot Noir, Bourgogne, Burgundy, 2016 + Add to My Wines From declassified Pommard vineyards, this delicious Pinot is an absolute bargain. It has a wonderfully perfumed nose immediately inviting you in and offers a burst of juicy strawberry and red cherry flavours on the palate. It's fresh and vibrant and, while tasty now, will no doubt continue to age well... Points92 Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame Rosé, Champagne, France, 2008 + Add to My Wines A pink-copper-gold colour with a smoky Burgundian nose of delicate red fruits. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from six grand cru sites, with... Domaine Joseph Drouhin, Rully, Burgundy, France, 2016 + Add to My Wines The Rully is very attractive in this excellent vintage for Côte Chalonnaise reds. Notes of cherry, rich spice and forest floor precede a sapid, savoury and medium-full palate with nicely succulent acids and a touch of chewy tannin on the flavourful finish. This should be excellent value. Points88 The Joy Fantastic, Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara, 2017 + Add to My Wines The Joy Fantastic estate vineyard was planted in 2014 by Peter Hunken and Amy Christine MW near the western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills,... Bruno Paillard, Première Cuvée Rosé, Champagne, France NV + Add to My Wines Bruno Paillard's Rosé is predominantly first-press Pinot Noir, with some Pinot Noir red wine added along with an unspecified amount of Chardonnay for balance. For blending, the team utilise reserve wines stretching back to 1985, and the result is aged for 36 months on its lees then at least six... Points90

What to do if your wine cork breaks or crumbles - ask Decanter

We've all been there - a cork has started to crumble away in your bottle of wine. But what should you do next, and can you drink the wine? Ellie DouglasDecember 2, 2020 Credit: Andres Siimon / Unsplash Ask Decanter Christmas Highlights What to do if your wine cork breaks or crumbles - ask Decanter 'If a cork disintegrates and falls back into the bottle, the simplest solution is to filter the wine through a fine mesh - either cheesecloth or a sieve, depending on how small the pieces of cork are,' said Julia Sewell, who was previously sommelier at The Fat Duck and has also worked at Noble Rot and Hide. 'It's important to consider the age of the wine and the speed at which you will drink it.' 'The filtration process can speed up the oxidation of a very old wine and it may be better to filter such a wine directly into the glass, rather than decanting it first.' Can you still drink the wine? In most cases the wine will still be fine to drink, as it should have still maintained a seal on the bottle. 'There is not a universal rule, but our experience says that the wine maintains the quality for being served,' said Guillermo Cruz, head sommelier at Mugaritz. 'But at Mugaritz, we would always explain that the cork has crumbled when we serve the wine.' Occasionally a crumbling cork may mean that the quality has been compromised, but 'it's best to reserve judgement until you have tasted the wine,' said Sewell. 'Some of best bottle of wines I have tasted have had the worst cork condition,' said Clement Robert MS, head sommelier and wine buyer at 28-50 wine bars. How can you prevent the cork crumbling? 'If you're in the habit of opening older bottles of wine, it's best to invest in a two-prong wine opener, which can save you a lot of time dealing with fragile corks,' said Sewell. 'However, some corks just won't keep their integrity, no matter how careful you are.' A two-pronged opener is also known as a 'butler's thief' cork remover, or a 'wiggle-and-twist'. 'It's essentially a handle with two flat metal prongs attached, sprung so that when you work them (cautiously) down the sides of a cork that looks/feels like it may crumble or be pushed down into a bottle under a regulation corkscrew, they apply some inward pressure to your dodgy cork,' said Decanter's David Longfield, in the latest issue of the magazine. 'Once you've persuaded the prongs far enough down - start with the longer of the two, and use a slight lateral motion as you progress, rather than pressing directly down - that pressure enables you then (the theory goes) to begin pulling up while rotating the cork out of the bottle neck. ' 'If a cork's condition is bad enough, it may still break, in which case give it another go, gently.' 'You may have to concede and push the rest of the cork down into the bottle - use the handle end of a teaspoon, and go slowly, to avoid wine spurting up out of the bottle!' It's an inexpensive fallback option, and a great stocking filler, said Longfield - City Wine Collection, Hedonism, Topnote Design and Wineware all stock them. 'If you don't have a two-prong bottle opener, then try again very slowly with your screw-pull, pulling very slowly.' Robert MS Ah-So Wine Opener Two-Prong Cork PullerMake crumbling corks a problem of the past for the wine lover in your life this Christmas.£3.27 Amazon UK BUY HERE And what if the cork breaks in the bottle? This will be less likely to happen if using the right opener, and you can try using a two prong one with a regular one to get the cork out, recommended Sewell. 'Try using the sharp end of the corkscrew in the cork and try to remove it - but it has to be done really carefully, ' said Cruz. 'However, the simplest solution - if you are unable to remove the broken half of the cork - is to push the cork all the way into the wine and serve as normal,' said Sewell. Written May 2018 and updated with more comments in December 2020.

Wine with lamb: Great styles to try

From cassis-rich Cabernet with your roast to slow-roasted shoulder with Grenache blends or cutlets with a fresh Pinot Noir, there are plenty of great options if you're planning to cook lamb this Christmas. Harry FawkesDecember 11, 2020 Shoulder of lamb with roast potatoes. Credit: vilevi / Alamy Stock Photo Food and wine pairing Wine with lamb at a glance Style of lamb Wine style Lamb cutlets or young lamb served pink Pinot Noir | Rosé Champagne | Bandol rosé Roast lamb served medium to well done Cabernet Sauvignon | Syrah or Shiraz | Rioja Reserva Slow roasted shoulder of lamb or lamb shank Grenache | Brunello di Montalcino | Gevrey-Chambertin (red Burgundy) Search our expert reviews to find a great wine Choosing a wine with lamb depends on the cut Many red wines from the classic grape varieties are a wonderful, natural match with lamb. But it's important to pay close attention to the cut of meat you've acquired, plus how you are going to cook it and serve it. Below, we've looked at the three most popular ways to cook lamb. Pinot Noir or rosé Champagne with young lamb - served pink Lighter, tender lamb meat demands a wine that will not swamp and overpower the delicate flavours and sublime texture. If you do reach for a full bodied red, you run the risk of ruining your meat. A fresher style of Pinot Noir from cooler climate regions can combine lovely red berry fruit balanced by earthy notes, fine tannins and good natural acidity. Those searching for value in Burgundy could look to less-known areas on the up, such as Rully, where the red have stepping out of Chardonnay's shadow, or Fixin at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, and fresher styles from Givry further south, in the Côte Chalonnaise. Some top producers have outposts in these regions, and it's worth looking at Bourgogne Rouge from the best growers in general, said Decanter's Burgundy critic, Tim Atkin MW, in a previous article on value Burgundy. Beyond Burgundy, you have a wealth of options. This could be a chance to see why German Pinot Noir is gaining plaudits, or you could look to fresher styles in New Zealand, Victoria in Australia, Walker Bay in South Africa, Russian River Valley or Anderson Valley in California, and Willamette Valley in Oregon, to name only a few. If you don't fancy a delicate red, this is your chance to reach for a weighty rosé such as Tavel or Bandol from the south of France. Don't believe friends who say rosé wines don't go with food. Alternatively, how about upping the tempo with a vintage rosé Champagne? Pink, tender lamb and a top rosé Champagne is something everyone must try once. Cabernet or Syrah with roast lamb - medium to well done This is a classic. The meat will be richer in flavour and not quite as tender, so a roast like this can handle a fuller-bodied red wine. Bordeaux blends are made for roast lamb. The young Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wines of the Bordeaux Left Bank are brimming with cassis fruit, backed by a splattering of spiciness and - in the best versions - well-judged oak. Try a vintage that is more approachable at a younger age, such as 2014, 2011 or 2006 perhaps, but great vintages like 2000 or 1996 could also make a memorable occasion - if you're lucky enough to have them. A wine like this will take the meat to an extra dimension, and the bolder tannin levels in your glass should also make the lamb meat feel more tender. Good Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends can be found across the globe, too, of course. The regions to look out for are: Hawke's Bay - New Zealand California - USA Coonawarra & Margaret River - Australia Stellenbosch - South Africa Argentina and Chile - South America If you're not keen on Cab, go for a good Rioja Reserva with some bottle age, or look towards Syrah / Shiraz. A Northern Rhône Syrah will enhance your roast lamb. Some wines will offer a touch of pepper spice in the glass that can also work beautifully with the texture of the meat. Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Brunello with shoulder of lamb If you're slow-roasting a shoulder from an older lamb, you'll be cooking with a lot more fat content on the meat, which holds and seals in the flavour fantastically. That pronounced, gamey flavour to your roast means that we're looking for a wine with that great balance of tannin, acidity and a little bottle age to draw out the flavours. Grenache-based blends from the Southern Rhône, with a few years of bottle age, would fit the bill. This is classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape territory, although you could also look to South Australia's McLaren Vale or some of the great-value Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (GSM) blends in Languedoc-Roussillon back in France. If none of these sound appealing, how about Spain's Ribera del Duero region? A young-ish Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany can also offer a lovely mix of bright red fruit, acidity, tannin and herbal notes. A well-balanced Brunello will have the tannin to soften the meat and enough natural acidity to cut through those extra layers of fat. This can be a truly sumptuous match. If you need some help with the cooking, then here is our guide on how to 'slow cook' a leg of lamb. Updated in December 2020 by Chris Mercer. Originally published in March 2016. Wine with lamb: Recent reviews by Decanter experts Domaines Barons de Rothschild-Lafite, Légende R, Médoc, 2016 + Add to My Wines Crafted by the Lafite-Rothschild winemaking team, this is a classic approachable expression of the Médoc, carrying a 60/40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot, Legende displays focused aromas and plenty of ripe black fruit character, supple tannins and sweet spice. The finish is fresh and elegant. Points90 Domaine De L'Aurage, Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux, 2014 + Add to My Wines Brooding nose of wild red berries with black cherry and damson. A deceptively powerful wine, with well-balanced structure and layers of flavour concentration. From an excellent site close to St-Emilion, this is polished, with ample finesse. Points92 Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux, 2ème Cru Classé, 1996 + Add to My Wines 23 years old and yet one of the best wines in the vertical, this has real power and grip, still with a tannic buildup through... Silver Oak, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley, 2016 + Add to My Wines Concentrated and intense nose with dense blackcurrant fruit, elegant pencil shavings and herbal notes. Grippy tannins with cassis framed by vanilla oak. Montinore Estate, Red Cap Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA 2017 + Add to My Wines Elegant and focused, this well-crafted Willamette Valley Pinot Noir shows considerable cherry and currant aromas. Subtle earth and herbal tones plus a layer of spice flow through the palate, which is supported by soft tannins and vibrant acidity. Points90 Ventisquero, Grey Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, 2018 + Add to My Wines Made from a single block of Pinot on granitic soils just 7km from the sea. Fresh raspberry and plum aromas, with a subtle earthiness. On the palate, lush red and black fruit supported by gentle oak and a dusting of spice. Good depth of flavour, with a fruity finish. Points92 Albert Bichot, Fixin, 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière, 2017 + Add to My Wines Produced with purchased grapes, rather than bought-in must or wine, this is an exceptional Fixin from the highest premier cru site in the appellation. It's... d'Arenberg, The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2017 + Add to My Wines A very dry but mild growing season with many cool nights has produced a lifted Shiraz of good intensity and detail. Bright blackberry fruit is... Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2015 + Add to My Wines A sunny year, but this isn't as deep in colour as some other recent vintages. Distinctly eucalyptus, fresh thyme, rosemary and liquorice. It's full-bodied but... Bollinger, La Grande Année Rosé, Champagne, France, 2012 + Add to My Wines 5% of red wine has been added by assemblage from the legendary La Cote Aux Enfants vineyard in Aÿ. The resulting power is subtle, gastronomic... Philipponnat, 1522 - Extra-Brut Rosé, Champagne, 2009 + Add to My Wines The complex nose expresses lovely scents of rose, blackcurrant, raspberry as well as a touch of spices, while also imparting a physical impression of limestone-driven... Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy, 2015 + Add to My Wines Talenti's Brunello is assembled from five different vineyards between Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate. With varying soils, they also range in altitude from 250...

How Is Wine Made?

From picking to bottling, these are the steps grapes go through before reaching your glass. Written by Vicki Denig Published 11/19/20 Pin Share Email Image: Getty Images / Morsa Images Pick, stomp, age—simple as that, right? Well, sort of. Although the process of making wine is relatively easy to grasp, there are so many more intricacies to vinification than meet the eye. Harvest decisions, fermentation choices, vinification methods, aging regimens and bottling options all play major roles in how a wine ends up tasting. Although many winemakers believe that great wine is first made in the vineyard by growing high-quality grapes with great care, what happens in the cellar is just as important. We've outlined how wine is made, from picking the grapes to putting the final product into the bottle. Harvest Getty Images / Markus Gann / EyeEm Getting fruit from the vineyard to the winery is the first step in the winemaking process. However, there are more decisions to be made here than you may think. First and foremost, choosing the ideal picking date is crucial. Winemakers regularly taste fruit from their vineyards throughout the year to assess acidity and sugar levels. When the time is deemed right, teams are gathered and sent out into the vines to collect the fruit. Harvesting can be done one of two ways: either by hand or by machine. The former takes longer, though allows for more quality control and sorting in the vineyard (if desired). The latter is generally done at larger estates that have more ground to cover. Crushing/Pressing the Grapes Twenty20 / Tarynn Liv Parker - @thefieldguide This step is slightly different, depending on whether white, rosé, or orange or red wines are being made. First and foremost, if the winemaker desires, the grape berries are removed from their stems using a destemmer. Crushing follows. For white wines, fruit is generally crushed and pressed, meaning that juice is quickly removed from contact with the grape skins. Once pressed, the juice is then moved into a tank to settle, then racked off of the sediment. For orange and red wines, the fruit is crushed (with or without stems) and left on the skins for a given period of time to macerate. This is what ultimately gives red and orange wines their color and tannin structure. Fermentation Getty Images / OceanProd The equation of alcoholic fermentation is simple: Yeast plus sugar equals alcohol and CO2. Fermentations can be done with either native yeasts or cultivated yeasts. Native yeast fermentations (or spontaneous fermentations) are executed with naturally present yeasts found on grape skins and in a winery's environment. Cultivated yeast fermentations are implemented by using purchased strains of yeast and adding them to the juice to execute the process. Spontaneous fermentations tend to take much longer and are often credited with producing more complex final wines. Aging Getty Images / Morsa Images Several factors come into consideration when developing a wine's aging (or élevage) regimen. First, the vessel decision is the big factor. Most winemakers will choose to age their wines in steel, cement or oak, although terra cotta or clay, glass and other vessels are also possible options. Aging wine in steel creates a nonoxidative environment, meaning that wines are not exposed to oxygen. This tends to preserve fresh fruit-driven flavors in the wine, and no external tannins or flavor are added from wood. On the opposite side of the spectrum, oak aging creates an oxidative environment, meaning that the wine has contact with oxygen. This allows the wine to develop different levels of texture and flavors. When new oak (as opposed to neutral or used wood) is used, flavors of vanilla, baking spice, coconut and/or dill can often be tasted in the resulting wine. Fining and/or Filtering the Wine Getty Images / Stanislav Sablin Post-aging, some winemakers will choose to fine and/or filter their wines to remove any residual sediment from the juice. Filtering is done through a porous material, whereas fining requires adding some sort of substance to the wine (generally bentonite, egg whites, gelatin or isinglass) to the wine and allowing the sediment to coagulate. Note that residual sediment in wine is absolutely harmless and is completely OK to drink. Winemakers who choose to fine and/or filter their wines generally only do these steps for aesthetic reasons. Bottling Getty Images / Alfio Manciagli Once the wines are aged and fined and/or filtered, the wine is ultimately bottled and ready to be packaged. Some winemakers choose to additionally age their wines in the bottle for a given period of time prior to releasing them. Once bottled, the wines are labeled and sealed, with corks, screw caps or other closures, and are sent off to be delivered to your local watering hole or neighborhood retail shop.

The Rare Australian Wine You May Never Get to Taste

Three decades ago, in a backyard garden in Western Australia's Swan Valley, a mystery vine grew in secret. Its seed was likely carried by a bird or wind from a nearby Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard, located in a historic wine region 18 miles inland from capital city, Perth. Upon being discovered, its keepers dedicated a decade to covert propagation and experimentation before the vine was patented. This is how Cygne Blanc, also known as White Cabernet and thought by many to be Australia's first and only spontaneous indigenous wine grape variety, was born. Cygne Blanc almost never existed at all. Unlike commercial vines, which are almost all direct clones of parent vines, seedlings that propagate naturally in the wild have the potential to grow into entirely new varieties. These plants are genetically distinct from their parents, though their fruit rarely possess the qualities needed to make good wine. Rogue seedling vines pop up in vineyards all the time, but are almost always ripped out. Cygne Blanc grapes emerging from the vine / Photo by Anthea Mann However, fortune favored that lone Australian vine. It was discovered in 1989 by the garden's steward, Sally Mann, who found it growing in patch of ochre-hued dirt. Sally is also the late wife of Dorham Mann, a third-generation winemaker and one of Western Australia's most influential and important oenologists and viticulturists. "My mother spotted a seedling vine in the garden by the house, not in the vineyard, and that's actually what saved it," says Anthea Mann, daughter of Dorham and Sally, and co-winemaker at Mann Winery. Sally recognized the vine's distinctive leaves were from the Cabernet family. But the type of grapes it would grow were a mystery. The likelihood that they would produce good wine was slim at best. "We got a big surprise when [the vine] set fruit...everything in the vineyard started turning color and this thing stayed white," says Anthea. "We knew then we had something that was a bit interesting. But the real fluke of the variety is that it turned out to be such a lovely wine grape. It has finesse and refinement like no other." Cygne Blanc vines before pruning / Photo by Denise Teo Cygne Blanc is described as showing notes of rose petals, spiced apple and a silky texture comparable to Sémillon or Marsanne. In order to obtain Plant Breeders' Rights, Dorham Mann was forced to propagate in secret what Sally came to lovingly call "her" vine. In 1999, he applied to maintain the commercial rights to the variety, which the family dubbed Cygne Blanc, or "White Swan." It's a tribute both to their native Swan Valley and Cabernet's French origins. The Truth Behind Your Favorite Wines Cygne Blanc made its way off the Mann's property just once. In 2001, the family granted an exclusive license to Port Robe Estate, in South Australia's Limestone Coast, to plant some vines on their property and produce a dry, white table wine from it. The winery folded in 2009, and the vines were removed. Dorham Mann inspecting bottles / Photo by Denise Teo Today, a little more than one acre of the Mann's nine-acre property is planted to Cygne Blanc. The gatekeepers of Australia's only indigenous grape variety (defined as one grown from a seedling vine and not an Aussie-bred cross or hybrid) produce just 7,000 bottles of estate-grown, traditional-method sparkling wine. Of this, a third of the production is devoted to sparkling Cygne Blanc. Bottlings receive zero dosage, are aged 20 months on lees and released after a total of 2½ years. Mann says the resulting wine can age between 10-15 years. What Are Grape Clones? The wines are all hand-picked, hand-disgorged and hand-labeled. The Manns open their modest tasting room each year on August 1 and shut the doors once the wines have sold out, usually eight or nine months later. Chilled bottles of sparkling Cygne Blanc / Photo by Anthea Mann Whether Cygne Blanc will ever take hold again outside the Mann property remains unknown. But in a country that feels the effects of climate change, a native grape that's born and bred in Australia's climate and soil could be one solution. "We have progressively built up an area of the vineyard dedicated to producing clean propagative material, so that we are in a position to involve the variety in an appropriate new project," says Anthea. For now, the Manns are content to craft their own unique wines from the clonal copies of the wayward grapevine found in Sally Mann's garden more than 30 years ago. Sally passed away in September 2018. "Cygne Blanc is even more special to us now that we have lost her," says Anthea. Sally leaves behind an important legacy, that of Australia's sole native wine grape variety, her White Cabernet, tenderly nurtured by her family. "We processed the 2020 Cygne Blanc fruit just over a week ago," says Anthea. "At the moment, the winery is filled with the beautiful, perfumed scent of it happily fermenting."

How Prohibition Shaped American Wine Country

December 5, also known as Repeal Day, gets a lot of love in the bar and spirits community. It commemorates the date in 1933 when the 21st amendment to the Constitution was ratified, repealing the 18th amendment that banned the sale, transportation and manufacture of alcoholic beverages, effectively ending Prohibition. You've seen the images. Well-dressed folks toasting their beer mugs and cocktails under newspaper headlines that scream "Prohibition Ends at Last!" But while the beer and spirits industries continued to thrive during Prohibition thanks to a detailed network of bootleggers and speakeasies, Prohibition had a markedly different and damaging effect on the wine industry. These days, it's hard to find a winery in the U.S. that's older than 1933. Most that existed before Prohibition were hit hard once the 18th amendment took effect, shutting their doors, dumping their barrels and leaving vines to wither and die. Ironically, although the temperance movement across the U.S. prior to Prohibition was very strong, there were also thriving wine industries in unexpected states throughout the country during the 19th and early 20th centuries. So what would "American Wine Country" look like if had Prohibition never occurred? The original cellars of Brotherhood Winery, dug in 1839 and still in use today / Photo by John Kidd America's diverse 19th century wine regions New York Today, California has a firm grasp on the American wine industry and has been a significant winemaking force as far back as the 1870s. But back then, it was still a fairly remote location to the majority of the American population. From 1870 to 1880, New York hovered around seventh in wine production behind California, Missouri, Ohio, Illinois, Georgia and New Mexico. By 1890, the Empire State had moved to second place, where it stayed until Prohibition. Brotherhood Winery survived Prohibition selling wine for religious ceremonies. The clergy population in the area grew substantially during those 14 years. New York even claims to be the home of "America's Oldest Winery" with Brotherhood Winery in Washingtonville, New York. Still operating today, French Huguenot, Jean Jaques, dug his first underground cellars (and fermented his first vintage) in 1839, and those cellars are still in use today. Photo courtesy Brotherhood Winery The winery survived Prohibition under the ownership of Louis Farrell, who purchased the facility and its stock of sacramental wine in 1921, and continued to sell wine for religious ceremonies. The recorded history of Brotherhood Winery hilariously notes that the clergy population in the area grew substantially during those 14 years. New Jersey Another winemaking powerhouse on the East Coast was New Jersey, where 220,000 gallons of wine were produced from eleven wineries in 1900. In South Jersey, vineyards were centered around the towns of Vineland and Egg Harbor City, the latter being home to Renault Winery, one of the oldest continuously operating wineries in the country. The use of a special permit introduced Renault Wine Tonic, a pharmaceutical product with an alcoholic content of 22%, sold in drug stores. Careful not to skirt the law, the tonic's label warned consumers "not to chill the tonic, as it would turn into wine, which is illegal." Purchased in 1864 by Louis Nicholas Renault and selling New Jersey "Champagne" by 1870, Renault Winery became the largest distributor of sparkling wine in the United States. In 1919, the winery was purchased by the D'Agostino family and continued to operate during Prohibition by government permit allowing the production of sacramental wine and medicinal wine. The use of this permit introduced Renault Wine Tonic, a pharmaceutical product with an alcoholic content of 22%, sold in drug stores throughout the nation. Careful not to skirt the law, the tonic's label warned consumers "not to chill the tonic, as it would turn into wine, which is illegal." Where Does Wine Really Come From? Harvest time among Baxter's vines / Photo courtesy Baxter's Vineyards The Midwest Arguably, the wine regions of the country that were most devastated by Prohibition were those of the Midwest. The average wine drinker today probably isn't aware that competitive vintages are still produced in the area, and it's safe to say most wine connoisseurs don't give the Midwestern wine industry the respect it deserves. In the 1870s, Stone Hill Winery in Missouri (est. 1847) produced more than one million gallons of wine per year, making it the second largest winery in the country. The reality is that winemaking history here has depth and breadth, with the two most favored regions for grape growing found along the great valleys of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, as far north as Wisconsin and west to Nebraska. Vines also spread through the prairies of Illinois, the black lands of central Iowa, the bluffs of eastern Kansas and the hilly Ozarks. In the 1870s, Stone Hill Winery in Missouri (est. 1847) produced more than one million gallons of wine per year, making it the second largest winery in the country. Unfortunately the momentum of Missouri's wine industry halted with the onset of Prohibition, particularly at Stone Hill, where their extensive arched underground cellars harvested mushrooms instead of wine until 1965. Fortunately, there were a few wineries in this region that survived. Family-owned Baxter's Vineyards, the oldest winery in Illinois, has operated out of the small town of Nauvoo since 1857. A booming wine business included medals from the Illinois State Board of Agriculture in 1876, 1877 and 1879. Formerly known as Baxter Brothers (and Emile Baxter and Sons prior to 1895), they were able to maintain their vineyard during Prohibition by shipping more than 120 railroad cars of grapes to northern markets like Chicago, while wine making was limited to family consumption. Meier's Wine Cellars in Cincinnati played both sides of the grape, so to speak. Opened in 1895 as a small grape juice business, Meier's didn't start making and selling wine until closer to 1900 after a land purchase in Silverton, Ohio. Once Prohibition came along, they reverted back to juice, earning special recognition for their sparkling Catawba grape juice (that still sells today), then reintroduced wine in 1933. A 1920s order form for what was, at the time, known as the J. C. Meier Grape Juice Co. / Photo courtesy Meier's Wine Cellars Texas and The South Further south, only a handful of 19th century wineries still exist in what were once vibrant wine locales. Fifth generation-run Post Familie Vineyards in Altus, Arkansas has been around since 1880 and is rumored to have survived Prohibition thanks to founder Jacob Post's daughter-in-law Katherine, who served wine with meals at popular restaurants during Prohibition. In Del Rio, Texas, Val Verde Winery has grown grapes and crafted wine since 1883. Founded by Italian immigrants, the Qualia family relied on their heritage and relationship with the Catholic church to continue their business throughout Prohibition by selling grapes and getting a permit to make sacramental wine. North Carolina, South Carolina, Alabama and notably, Virginia, which was home to Monticello Wine Company in Charlottesville (at one point the largest winery in the South) all had flourishing wine industries that were effectively destroyed by Prohibition. One can only imagine what these wine regions would look like today had they not been stifled. The Wente Family with their barrels in 1895 / Photo courtesy Wente Vineyards California This brings us to California. Perhaps unsurprisingly, California is where the most pre-Prohibition wineries still exist. Oddly, Prohibition seemed to serve California well, at least in regard to grape sales. Growers in the state clung to the provision of the Volstead Act that allowed the legal production of "fruit juices" (a k a wine) in the home, which led to a demand for fresh grapes across the country. Just before the start of Prohibition in 1919, California had about 300,000 acres of vineyard, but by 1927, the acreage had almost doubled and shipments of grapes grew by 125%. While the demand for grapes helped keep vineyards afloat, California wineries had to get creative in order to stay profitable during the dark days of Prohibition. Beringer kept profits flowing through the sale of "wine bricks" of concentrated grape juice that consumers could dissolve in water and ferment by simply following the instructions printed on the packaging that masqueraded as a warning of what not to do to prevent the product from turning into wine. Wente Vineyards in Livermore, California, established in 1883, maintained its bonded status during Prohibition by selling their Saunternes-style white wine to another California winery, Beaulieu Vineyard (est. 1900) in Rutherford. Beaulieu had a history of romancing the Catholic church, so unlike other California wineries that perished during Prohibition, Bealieu's business increased fourfold through the sale of sacramental wine. A bottle of Wente Bros. Pinot Chardonnay, 1936 vintage / Photo courtesy Wente Vineyards While also jumping on the sacramental wine trend, Beringer (est. 1876) kept profits flowing through the sale of "wine bricks." These were legal bricks of concentrated grape juice that consumers could dissolve in water and ferment by simply following the instructions printed on the packaging that masqueraded as a warning of what not to do to prevent the product from turning into wine. Concannon Vineyard (est. 1883), Bernardo Winery in San Diego (est. 1889) and San Antonio Winery in Los Angeles (est. 1917) all survived thanks to sacramental wine sales as well. However, San Antonio Winery seems to be the only winery that received special permission from the Archdiocese of Los Angeles to produce wine for ceremonial purposes and continues to produce sacramental wine today. How a Downtown Los Angeles Winery Has Survived for 100 Years However, the most legendary tale goes to Pope Valley Winery. Founded in 1897 as the Burgundy Winery & Olive Oil Factory by Swiss farmer, Ed Haus, Ed's son Sam befriended a young man from Chicago while in the military in the early 1900s. Through the Chicago connection, the Haus family began to sell and transport wine on a horse cart down to Napa where it boarded a train to Chicago to be served in Al Capone's speakeasies and brothels during the height of Prohibition. The illicit sales were kept under wraps, and the winery appeared to have ceased production during Prohibition and no one questioned why they were able to "reopen" so quickly after its repeal.

Five Tips for Making Holiday Meals More Wine-Friendly

As this strange and unsettling year finally draws to a close, all Americans share a deeper appreciation for cherished relationships with friends and family. Some of us will gather together with close family or friends while others will shelter at home, but keeping the ritual of giving thanks at the dinner table this November is as essential as face masks and social distancing. That's why our friends at Jordan Winery have put together a list of Thanksgiving Wine Pairing Tips & Recipes to help bring a taste of Sonoma wine country to your table. One of the most challenging parts of preparing a Thanksgiving dinner isn't making sure that the turkey isn't dry—it's finding wine pairings that work with the smorgasbord of flavors on the table. We hope these Thanksgiving dinner menu tips wows the small group of loved ones you'll be celebrating with because if there is one thing we've learned from 2020, it's to slow down and take time to celebrate the little things in life. Thanksgiving Wine Pairing Tips 1. Don't focus too much on the bird. Turkey with a fuller-bodied red wine is a challenging Thanksgiving wine pairing. You can, however, make Thanksgiving turkey more cabernet-friendly by adding a few ingredients. Bring out cabernet sauvignon's earthy notes by sprinkling the turkey with porcini powder during the last hour of roasting. Turkey stuffed with a cabernet-friendly dressing (see next tip below), also brings savory, complex flavors to the delicate white meat, helping it stand up better to a fuller-bodied red wine. 2. Increase the dried herb, smoky and meaty flavors in the dressing. A handful of ingredients can turn your favorite Thanksgiving dressing recipe into a beautiful cabernet sauvignon pairing. Add fresh chopped rosemary, thyme and basil—all three elevate the classic dried herb notes in an elegant cabernet. Grilled or sautéed onions are also a great bridging element for pairing with cabernet. When you caramelize onions, flavors transition from sweet to umami—that savory taste helps the food stand up to the tannin in the wine. Black olives are my other secret weapon for cabernet sauvignon food pairing. Salt-cured olives seem to have the effect of softening the perceived astringency of red wine's tannins. Olives are also high in monounsaturated fat; both protein and fat soften tannins. Add some raw, smoky bacon to the dressing before baking too; the bacon complements the toasted oak notes in the red wine. 3. Add bridge ingredients to your favorite mashed potato recipe. Meyer lemon zest brings out the citrus notes in chardonnay and makes the potatoes taste lighter. Toasted hazelnuts elevate the wine's barrel-aged nuances. Cabernet lovers can add ingredients like mushrooms and grilled shallots to play off the red wine's earthy and barrel-aged notes. Incorporating creamy butternut squash to mashed potatoes also enhances the mouthfeel of a round, barrel-aged chardonnay. For Thanksgiving gravy, brown gravy recipes made with beef broth are a better match for cabernet sauvignon. Adding sautéed mushrooms to brown gravy further elevates this Thanksgiving wine pairing. View all three of Chef Knoll's wine-friendly mashed potato recipes. 4. Use Epicurious' Shallot and Dried Cherry Compote Cranberry Sauce recipe for your Thanksgiving cranberry sauce. There's no need to create a new wine-friendly cranberry sauce recipe when Epicurious has already done the work for us. A traditionally sweet cranberry sauce over-accentuates the alcohol and tannin in the wine, making it taste hot and unbalanced. "I love serving this side dish because it's the best cranberry sauce recipe I've found for Thanksgiving wine pairing," says Executive Chef Todd Knoll of Jordan Winery. "It's perfectly balanced and not too sweet. It's got great acidity, which complements the acid in the wine. The dried cherries elevate the fruit in medium- to fuller-bodied red wines like cabernet sauvignon. Chef Knoll suggests a younger red wine pairing, such as 2015 or 2016 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon. 5. Serve blackberry or black cherry desserts for the best cabernet wine pairing. Making cabernet or chardonnay shine with pumpkin pie is no cakewalk. The sweetness and spices are too overwhelming for these oak-aged wines. But, low-sugar blackberry cobbler is another story. In the Jordan kitchen, Chef Knoll tends to use a third less of sugar than a typical recipe calls for. With the winery's blackberry cobbler, it can stand up to Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon because the dessert isn't so sweet that the sugar overpowers the berries, and when the fruit is the star, it elevates the fruit in the wine. You want the natural sweetness of the blackberries to shine through and complement cabernet's dark fruits. View the Wine Country Blackberry Cobbler recipe.

Wine colour: What can it tell you?

How much information can you extract by just looking at the colour of a wine? Sylvia WuJune 17, 2020 Credit: Maksym Kaharlytskyi / Unsplash Ask Decanter Highlights Colour is the first hint about a wine, offering you some initial clues about the style, age and taste of the liquid in your glass. To properly observe wine colour, you should ideally pour the wine into a clear glass in-front of a white background. Tilt the glass to examine the colour spectrum and its intensity. However, wine colour can't tell you everything, and it can sometimes give false impressions of how a wine will taste. Some scientific research has also shown that colour can influence taste, as Richard Hemming MW cited in a 2015 article on the subject in Decanter magazine. So, what can we learn by analysing wine colour? Wine colour: Where it first comes from In the first instance, it is the pigment in the grape skins that brings colour to young wines. Colour can then be extracted from the skins during the winemaking and fermentation process. Many white wines are made from 'white' grapes, which are green when picked. Skins are separated from the grape must before fermentation. Extended skin contact for white wine grapes is a key feature in the production of 'orange wines'. Red wines are made from black grapes and the skins have been left in contact with the grape must during the fermentation process, to extract colour. Some grape varieties naturally lend more colour than others, and this can help you spot them in a line-up. A young wine made from thick-skinned Malbec or Syrah / Shiraz grapes will more commonly have a deep purple hue, while a thinner-skinned Pinor Noir wine will often take on a paler complexion. However, the growing climate and a winery's decisions in the vineyard affect where a wine sits on the colour spectrum. Winemaking processes and storage conditions can also alter colour and its intensity. The amount of colour extracted depends on the winery's methods, such as the length of fermentation. Some producers prefer a cold soak maceration before fermentation, to encourage colour to seep from the skins without extracting lots of tannin. It's possible for black grapes to produce white wine, as long as the skins are separated from the juice quickly enough. A classic example would be the use of Pinot Noir in Champagne. In particular, Blanc de Noir Champagnes, made from 100% Pinot. There are several ways to make rosé wines. These include the saignée method, which essentially involves 'bleeding' off pink juice early in the red winemaking process, or leaving skins in contact with the juice for a certain amount of time before fermentation. Rosé winemaking methods - Ask Decanter Oxidation and ageing As white wines age they tend to gain colour, moving from lemon through to gold, amber and eventually brown. This is an oxidative process also known as 'maderisation'; a term taken from the production of Madeira wines. Understanding the different Madeira styles Red wines tend to lose colour as they age and oxidise. They may begin with purple or ruby tones, move through to garnet and eventually take on a tawny-like appearance. Tawny Ports, which are usually made from red grapes, can appear to be golden brown in the glass after decades of ageing. Understanding Tawny Port Does that mean we can tell how old a wine is by the colour? Colour is certainly a useful hint, and it can give you an idea of a wine's stage of development. But, the level and rate of oxidation is far from uniform; it can be affected by how wines are made, matured and stored. A wine may be kept in a reductive environment, such as stainless steel tanks, to retain freshness and primary fruit character, for instance. Wine fermented or stored in oak will be exposed to small amounts of oxygen. Smaller casks mean greater exposure. The chemical stability of a wine, such as acidity level, and the humidity and temperature levels during storage can also influence how fast a wine ages. What does colour tell us about flavour and sweetness? It is a challenge to deduct the taste of a wine just by looking at the colour. We tend to associate deeper colours in red wines with more concentrated flavours, higher tannins and alcohol. Yet many red wines can defy that assumption. Barbera from Piedmont, for instance, tends to give deep ruby colours, high acidity but low tannins. Some young Beaujolais wines made from the Gamay grape can appear quite dense and purple, despite being relatively light-bodied with low tannins. Other Beaujolais wines, particularly from certain 'Cru' areas, have a bigger structure. Colour may also give us false signals about the sweetness of a wine. 'Halbtrocken' German Rieslings and late-harvest Muscats can both appear to be clear and light in colour, just like dry white wines, for instance. The same applies to ruby Ports, where a fresh and bright appearance may mask the wines' sweetness and intensity. Many lusciously sweet wines, such as Sauternes and Tokaji Aszú, are golden or amber in colour. However, a wine with a deep golden, amber or honeyed appearance can still be dry. Orange wines, a style gaining popularity in the last decade, are dry wines made from white grapes with prolonged maceration on the skin - essentially, they are made as if they were red wines. Contrary to a common assumption, the bright amber colour of orange wines largely comes from the skin, not oxidation, although the winemaking process is often oxidative. What is orange wine - ask Decanter Read our top orange wines feature in the July 2020 issue of Decanter, on sale now. A wine's colour, then, can give you clues about what you're about to drink. While they can also be misleading, the varied, vivid colours dancing in your glass are also part of our fascination with wine. As Richard Hemming MW put it, 'Colour is a vital part of not only the science and understanding of wine - but also of its enjoyment.'

MIDDLE AGES CHARDONNAY IS FIRST DOCUMENTED

Chardonnay is first documented, likely originated near the town of Chardonnay, which is in Burgundy's Mâcon region. It's a crossing of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc and its name means "a place of thistles" in Latin.

1960S CHARDONNAY STILL NOT WELL KNOWN

Americans were drinking wine brands, rather than varietal-labeled wines. According to Master Sommelier Larry O'Brien, "even white Burgundy was the catchall phrase to describe Chardonnay, regardless of the wine's origin."

How Belgium Became the Burgundy of Beer

Ask someone who self-identifies as a "serious" beer drinker about the most important global beer destinations, and they might mention the rich cultural heritage of Germany, the Czech Republic and the U.K. They might also cite the comparatively recent craft beer explosion in the U.S. But they will most certainly bring up Belgium. Two and a half times smaller than the Czech Republic, and one-twelfth the size of Germany, Belgium enjoys a share of the global beer imagination that outweighs its minuscule footprint. So, what makes the land of chocolate and waffles outshine its Old World brewing competitors? To start: variety. Five Belgian-Style Beers to Try Now "There weren't that many heritage brewing countries back in the '70s," says Tim Webb, co-author of The World Atlas of Beer, among other books. "There was only really Czechoslovakia, West Germany, the U.K. and Belgium. Where Belgium differed from the other three was that Belgium had a huge range of beer styles." Comprising everything from rich dark ales to spritzy saisons and spontaneously fermented sour brews, Belgium's range echoes the whimsical, all-encompassing smorgasbord of today's craft beer world. Joe Stange, managing editor of Craft Beer & Brewing magazine and Webb's co-author for several recent editions of Good Beer Guide Belgium, credits idiosyncrasy for Belgium's role as the "spiritual home" of brewing variety. "How can saisons, Trappist ales and lambics all come from a place that's roughly the size of Maryland? That's absurd," he says. "All of that variety comes out of a bunch of stubborn local traditions that were never nationally homogenized, as they mostly were in Germany." An inclination for brewers doing things their own way might have been one reason for Belgium's fame. Fred Waltman, author of multiple European beer guides, says that Belgium also benefits from a romantic reputation. Some industry members believe Belgium's café culture gives its beer a romantic reputation / Getty "You're drinking in a café, not a bar or beerhall," says Waltman of the prototypical Belgian beer experience. "The beer comes in pretty glass that you sip. Brussels has a big French influence, which impresses Americans, or at least back in those days it did. And the bottle may have a cork in it, which impresses the hell out of some people." Other aspects have aided Belgium's reputation, like the renown of Trappist monastery breweries, something almost exclusive to Belgium. And then there is the country's location, close to the U.K. and easy to reach from the U.S. Early beer travelers and journalists could discover the joys of Saison Dupont, Cantillon and the like on jaunts to Belgium in the 1970s and '80s. By contrast, the great beers of Germany's Franconia brewing region, for example, lay another 400-odd miles to the southeast, with then-Czechoslovakia even more distant, locked behind the Iron Curtain until late 1989. Belgium's location in Western Europe led to another big bonus: Michael Jackson, an influential British beer writer, visited the country repeatedly before he began to promote the concept of beer styles as families of semi-related lagers and ales. Along with his TV show, The Beer Hunter, Jackson's books The World Guide to Beer, Pocket Guide to Beer and Michael Jackson's Great Beers of Belgium introduced millions to the country's legendary breweries. They outlined much of the language and concepts used by enthusiasts today. "Would Michael Jackson have fallen so in love with it if it weren't so easy to reach?" asks Stange. "He came down and became enthralled with brasseurs artisanales. Then we went and offered the world this taxonomy of the world's beers, and there was no hiding the novelty and variety of Belgium compared to basically everywhere else." The Revival of Belgian White Beers While Belgium's shine has not faded, beer fans have started to pay more attention to other countries in recent years. "I don't think its reputation is going down, but Germany and Czechia, i.e., lagers, have gone up," says Waltman. "If you exclude lambics, then there's maybe not quite the interest [in Belgium that] there was in the past." That might not be such a bad thing. Webb says that Belgian brewers now focus on both quality and drinkability in ways that they haven't needed to for decades, thanks to increased competition. But even if other countries now produce comparably good beers, they'll still have trouble matching the grand storytelling around Belgian brewing, which Stange calls its "mythos." "The secret weapons in the Belgian arsenal are mythos, presentation and balance," he says. "The stories matter. There is mythos attached, and that helps with the marketing. Farmers brewed beer for themselves and their seasonal workers. Monks brewed ales for themselves and their guests. And then there is the 'magic' of spontaneous fermentation. "It would all seem really silly if the beers weren't so damned tasty."

1995 ANYTHING BUT CHARDONNAY

U.S. Chardonnay hit a road bump in 1995 with Frank Prial's decree of "ABC" (Anything But Chardonnay), published in the New York Times. In some circles the grape was outcast, but it soon bounced back.

With chemical tests (and not-so-pleasant tastings), French researchers in 2020 identified a chemical compound in oak barrels as one potential cause of which taste sensation in certain wines? WRONG! The correct answer is: Bitterness

WRONG! The correct answer is: Bitterness

What is a vertical tasting? - ask Decanter

What do wine writers mean when they talk about a 'vertical tasting'? Chris WilsonSeptember 28, 2020 Ask Decanter Highlights A vertical tasting compares a number of wines from a single estate or producer, in which all the wines are produced under the same name or label but come from different years. A 'vertical' allows tasters to see the evolution of a specific wine over time, as well as better understand the effect of growing conditions in different vintages, plus any changes to techniques in the winery and - in the case of blends - assemblage percentages. By contrast, a 'horizontal' tasting compares wines from the same year and region/style. In this format, tasters look at differences between producers rather than comparing wines of different vintages from the same producer. It's common for established wineries around the world to hold vertical tastings that include vintages spanning several decades. Bordeaux châteaux are very fond of these events, which can offer the taster a rare opportunity to witness the development of an estate's wines over time, where the primary non-constant is the vintage. For example, Decanter's Bordeaux correspondent and contributing editor, Jane Anson, often attends and writes up vertical tastings, such as this one involving Château Cantenac Brown vintages from 2009 to 2018. Anson says, 'Any vertical has its fair share of drama behind the scenes. Hail storms, frost, changes of ownership, wider economic events that impact sales. Depending on where you are in the world that might extend to earthquakes and forest fires.' The opportunity to better understand 'vintage variation' is part of what makes a vertical tasting so interesting to many. Some wine commentators prefer the horizontal tasting, however. 'We'd enjoy wine much more if we could abandon thinking about it in a vertical sense, and throw all our energy into thinking about it in a horizontal sense,' wrote Andrew Jefford in a 2018 Decanter.com column. 'The best way is horizontally, which means prizing the differences as sacrosanct, and giving them our full attention: enjoying difference for itself.' Can I set up my own vertical tasting? It's relatively straight-forward to set up a vertical tasting at home. Here are some basic steps: Choose a favourite producer and wine, ideally the estate's signature wine; Source a handful (three to four) of vintages of the wine, produced in successive years; Taste these side-by-side in vintage order - old to young or young to old. Gather some technical sheets on the wines if you can. These are often available from the producer's website, and they will generally offer information about the growing season, the percentages of grape varieties used in the blend for that particular year and winery techniques, such as use of oak and how long each wine was matured for. It's always interesting to compare the technical information, as well as the wines themselves.

Winemakers Applaud Napa's Other Cabernet. So Why Aren't More People Drinking It?

Maybe it's the time I've spent in the Loire Valley, or maybe it's because one of the first Napa Valley Cabernet Francs I ever had was one of Tom Garrett's iconic Detert bottlings, but I've always loved Cabernet Franc. I love its violet aroma and vibrant, earthy flavors of cedar, dried herb and crushed rock atop a brambly berry core. It can present such a lovely, harmonious balance between fruitiness and floral notes, with great acidity and structure. It has the potential to be a great grape here, a softer, gentler alternative to Cab Sauv, if ever given its proper due. Which is exactly why I've lamented that it's relatively invisible in the regions I cover, especially Napa. Sure, there are devotees, like Detert, Lang & Reed and Crocker & Starr, but for every Cab Franc-minded producer, there are easily hundreds more focused on Cabernet Sauvignon. That's true in the ground as well. Cabernet Franc doesn't even crack the top six varieties planted in the Napa Valley. At 51%, Cabernet Sauvignon is far and away the most dominant. But there's also more Merlot (9%), Pinot Noir (6%) and Zinfandel (3%) than Cab Franc. It has the potential to be a great grape here, a softer, gentler alternative to Cab Sauv, if ever given its proper due. "Cabernet Franc is my favorite variety," says Genevieve Janssens, the longtime director of winemaking for Robert Mondavi Winery who now focuses on her own brand, Portfolio Winery, as well as consulting. "It combines the winemaking skills of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. It is very delicate, very aromatic, with silky, satin tannins. To be able to capture all the nuances of this variety, the winemaker needs to be tuned to the site, the vintage." The Loire's Cabernet Franc Enters a New Era Like me, Janssens has wondered why the grape hasn't had the same fame as the other Cabernet or even as much as Merlot. "I'm attributing this late start to the complexity of cultivating it," she says. "It will be very sensitive to its environment, it will be more hands-on. It has a strong sense of place." Winemaker Ted Henry of Clos du Val calls Cabernet Franc his absolute favorite blending tool and says,"it may be my favorite grape we grow, period." "The way we farm Cabernet Franc, with extreme leaf pulling, tends to give the wines more chocolate and cocoa notes and less of the obvious green and herb notes that Cab Franc has in the past been known for," he says. Janssens calls it poetic, "a variety that flirts with you, evocative and gracious on the palate." I couldn't agree more. I'd just love to see more of it. Three To Try La Jota 2016 Cabernet Franc (Howell Mountain); 96 points, $85. Complex and lengthy, with juicy red and black fruit and lasting accents of dried herb, sage, lavender and violet. Drink 2024-2026. Clos du Val 2016 Hirondelle Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc (Stags Leap District); 94 points, $100. Herbal, earthy and structured, with thick, firm tannins and dry, toasted oak alongside intense layers of black currant, violet and blueberry. Enjoy 2026-2031. Robert Mondavi 2016 Cabernet Franc (Oakville); 93 points, $64. Dusty gravel and crushed rock earthiness make for a heady, memorable bouquet, while dried herb, currant and cassis flavors mingle around a soft, well-integrated texture of lengthy tannins and classic oak

Pliny the Elder, the First Wine Critic and Why He Still Matters

BY LAUREN MOWERY Etching of the death of Pliny the Elder / Getty Pliny the Elder was a devotee of all things fermented, namely wine and beer. This ancient Roman may have been an author, statesman and military commander, but he's become a household name among craft beer drinkers as inspiration for his namesake Russian River Brewing Company famed double IPA. However, he may have also been one of the first wine critics. Pliny's writing, much of it informed by a conviction in terroir, recognition of vintage variation and desire to rank vineyards, continues to influence the wine industry today. Who was Pliny the Elder? Born Gaius Plinius Secundus in A.D. 23 to a wealthy Gaul family, Pliny leveraged privileged political connections to study in Rome. He developed an insatiable curiosity and passion for reading and writing, according to historians and nephew, the prolific author Pliny the Younger. He joined the military at age 23, under the reign of Emperor Tiberius, where he first served in Germany. Near the end of Emperor Nero's rule, Pliny moved to Spain to study and write. Eventually, he returned to Rome, where he received the fateful assignment to command a fleet near Naples to combat piracy. Unfortunately, while exact details are murky, Pliny the Elder died in Pompeii during the volcanic eruption of Mount Vesuvius. This summary belies the extraordinary detail paid to the wine world by Pliny. He lived during a time of access and excess. Consider the breadth of Rome's expansion. Its borders stretched from England to North Africa, and deep into the Eastern Mediterranean during its height. Through military campaigns, settlements and robust trade, Roman appreciation for wine and its desire to plant vines in new territories provided Pliny opportunities to sip from many lands. How ancient history is still relevant to wine criticism Romans grew grapes across Galicia, in what is now Spain, to quench the thirst of gold-mining communities. Their labor-intensive, hand-hewn ledges in Ribeira Sacra remain in use today. In Germany's Mosel Valley, Romans brought viticultural expertise and sizeable wine estates, the latter from which modern vintners have unearthed ancient Roman presses on prestige vineyards. The most famous example: Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. Roman wine's golden age began in the 2nd century B.C. After the defeat of its enemies, the empire experienced a period of relative peace, prosperity and control of the ancient Mediterranean. This allowed for the refinement of viticulture and the concept of grand cru sites. Like contemporary wine lovers' passion for celebrated appellations (Napa, Burgundy) and producers (Screaming Eagle, Pétrus), the ancient wine community elevated certain regions, vineyards and estates based on their quality and ability to age. Centuries later, Pliny provided a strong voice in this critical narrative. Pliny's extensive writings on "first growths" encompassed Falernian, the legendary wine of ancient Rome. This grape from Campania came from the slopes of Mount Massico, today the Falerno del Massico DOC. He recorded the best sites of modern-day Lombardy, Venice, Emilia-Romagna, Marche and Tuscany. He detailed the finest vineyards south of Naples, along the Adriatic coast, where he acknowledged the high-quality estate of Mamertine from Messina, Sicily. Pliny wrote of the healing properties of Prosecco. He recounted the rich, tannic wines of Pompeii, which was recreated recently using two ancient strains (Piedirosso and Olivella) in an experiment to taste wines of his times. Getty Pliny's writings extended beyond Italy's borders. He noted the high prices that bottles from Vienne (now Côte-Rôtie) achieved in Rome. He also referenced plantings in Bordeaux that include the grape Balisca, now thought an ancestral relative to the Cabernet family. At its peak, Roman citizens consumed one bottle of wine per day, or 47 million gallons annually. Though Pliny wasn't solely a critic, he did lament the rise of cheap wines and poor vintages. His most famous, comprehensive achievement was the 37-volume Roman encyclopedia Naturalis Historia (Natural History), published two years before his death. It was considered authoritative up through the Middle Ages. Book 14 covered wine, which included a ranking of Rome's top vineyards. Book 17 discussed techniques in viticulture and expounded upon the notion of terroir, a concept generally credited to colleague Columella. He asserted that the vineyard exerted greater influence over wine quality than vine type, a foundational notion persistent in terroir-driven winemaking circles. "After climate, the next task is to discuss the influence of the earth (terra), a subject no easier to deal with," wrote Pliny. "Even the black soil found in Campania is not the best for vines everywhere, nor is the red soil that so many writers praise. People prefer the chalky soil in the territory of Alba Pompeia..." Though Pliny's ideas weren't infallible, he provided an authentic accounting of 1st-century Rome. Many of his astute observations serve as proof of concept. Sites and regions found or revered 2,000 years ago produce exceptional wines today. Where Does Wine Really Come From? The death of Pliny the Elder At 56, Pliny sailed into the Bay of Naples as Vesuvius erupted, according to letters by Pliny the Younger. It's believed that he ordered his "warships to be launched and went on board himself with the intention of bringing help" while he attempted to rescue his friend, Rectina. "What he had begun in a spirit of inquiry, he completed as a hero," wrote Pliny the Younger. He likely succumbed to his documented respiratory problems amidst suffocating smoke. Around 2,000 people died in Pompeii, and possibly up to 16,000 in the surrounding area. Coincidentally, the loss of Rome's great wine writer coincided with the fall of its most important wine hub. Pompeii's best vineyards were decimated, while warehouses that held the A.D. 78 vintage burned. This combination triggered high prices and a wine shortage. Grain fields were replaced with vineyards, a move which would eventually create food scarcity. Or to Pliny's point, "the only certainty is that nothing is certain."

Insider tips for pairing Champagne with food

Champagne isn't just for pre-dinner receptions; we bring you new expert advice and tips from our archives to give you inspiration. Chris MercerJuly 7, 2019 Oysters and blanc de blancs Champagne is a classic, but there are plenty of other options, too... Credit: Natalia Oskanova / Alamy Food and wine pairing Highlights Five ways to pair Champagne with food this week Blanc de blancs non-vintage with fresh oysters or to cut through the fat of a soft cheese like young camembert Vintage blanc de blancs with lobster Vintage rosé with roast venison, served slightly pink Blanc de noirs with aged Comté Demi-sec with a chocolate dessert See our experts' favourite Champagnes of 2018 Have you ever tried Krug Grande Cuvée with your fish and chips, or vintage rosé Champagne with salmon or game from the barbeque? How about matching up the brioche notes in an aged demi-sec with your breakfast pain-au-chocolat on a Saturday morning? It regularly vexes many in the wine trade - and particularly those in Champagne itself - that France's premier sparkling wine isn't paired with food more often. Champagne's many styles and ability to deliver complex flavours - in the right glass - make it a versatile guest at the dinner table, offering plenty of opportunities for experimentation, as the examples above suggest. For the record, Krug really did recruit Michelin-starred chef Tom Sellers to pair its Grande Cuvée with the traditional British chippy, in 2015. A few basics to consider First up, think about the weighting of the blend; for example, is it towards Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, or maybe even Pinot Meunier? It's also worth considering the age profile of the wine. Is it vintage? What is the time spent on lees? If it's non-vintage, what is the profile of the reserve wines used in the blend? Sweetness, indicated by dosage in g/l, is important, too. The chart below shows the maximum residual sugar levels for each category of sparkling wine Of course, knowledge of the style preferences of a particular house or grower will help. You'll find lots of detail in our expert tasting notes on great Champagnes from house prestige cuvée to grower. A well-informed, independent merchant should also be able to advise you on house styles. Champagne sweetness levels Champagne with seafood Fresh seafood platters or oysters are seen as a classic territory for blanc de blancs Champagne, made entirely from Chardonnay. 'Blanc de Blancs is the natural match with seafood because of its fresh citrus spectrum range of flavours,' said Champagne expert, author and Decanter contributor Michael Edwards. A non-vintage Brut Nature can even work here, he added, suggesting the blanc de blancs Premier Cru version from Veuve Fourny. Blanc de blancs also works with lobster, but some experts suggest a richer style - perhaps a vintage - to match the fuller flavour of this outsized crustacean. 'One of my favorite styles with lobster is blanc de blancs Champagne, especially a vintage bottling from a great producer, like the 2006 Pierre Moncuit,' said Chris Gaither, sommelier and co-owner of San Francisco wine bar Ungrafted, which prides itself on its Champagne range. As an alternative, Gaither advocated 'a richer style of [non-vintage] Champagne with a good amount of reserve wine used in the cuvée, which adds volume and complexity, like the Brut Reserve from Charles Heidsieck'. Rosé Champagne It would be unfair to those houses with a long tradition to describe rosé Champagne as a new trend, but there have been more attempts to create serious, food-friendly versions in recent years. There are many 'gastronomic', vintage rosé Champagnes to choose from, such as Dom Pérignon 2006, Louis Roderer's Cristal rosé 2002 or Billecart-Salmon's Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon rosé 2006. These types of vintage rosé can often take a slightly meatier pairing, largely because of the richness added by a higher proportion of Pinot Noir used to create them. A stronger-flavoured fish, such as salmon cooked on the barbeque, would be a good summer match to try. Roast venison or pheasant can make a perfect pairing with vintage rosé, said Edwards, who has also previously recommended Veuve Clicquot's La Grande Dame 2008 with duck. Champagne with cheese Venture into full Pinot Noir Champagne territory and you could experiment with even stronger flavours. Edwards said that a vintage blanc de noirs with extended years on lees is a 'perfect match with aged Comté and Beaufort cheeses'. For a young, creamy camembert, however, you could revert to a vintage blanc de blancs. The late and great Gérard Basset MW MS OBE recommended Champagne with such cheeses, because one needs 'good acidity to cut through the high fat content'. Demi-sec for dessert The general conensus is that demi-sec should be reserved for dessert. Chocolate pudding could be a winner. Veuve Clicquot also recommends demi-sec with crème brulée and fresh fruit-based desserts. With so many house styles, don't be afraid to try things out. See Karen MacNeil's 10 rules of food and wine matching for a basic starting point.

How to Order Wine: The Most Important Terms to Use

These words will help guarantee happiness with your bottle. Written by Nikki Goddard Published 07/10/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Laura Sant If you've ever been intimidated by the prospect of ordering wine in a restaurant or wine bar or requesting a recommendation in a bottle shop, know that you're in good company. Anyone who has ever worked in those settings will tell you that the majority of their customers are unable or afraid to describe the type of wine they desire and often make an embarrassed claim of not knowing how to talk about wine, sometimes even apologizing for it. Although very few of us would ever apologize to our doctor for not having been trained in medicine, many people who have had no wine education somehow feel their lack of knowledge is something to be ashamed of. There is truly no reason to worry about this. Any wine professional should know how to ask the right questions to arrive at the perfect recommendation and certainly should never say anything to make you feel bad about your level of expertise or lack thereof. But to increase the likelihood of satisfaction, you might find it helpful to learn some basic terms for communicating your preferences. We suggest starting small by identifying a handful of words that describe the wines you've enjoyed in the past. These are some of the most important words to use when ordering wine. Armed with these, you can effortlessly request a "full-bodied, earthy and tannic red," an "off-dry aromatic white with high acidity," or whatever else you may desire. Dry, Off-Dry or Sweet This is an important place to start, because many people have heard the term "dry" and think they're "supposed" to use it to describe a good wine, but most are unfamiliar with what the word actually means in a wine context. Simply put, a dry wine is a wine that is not sweet and should not be confused with a tannic wine, which can make your mouth feel dry (see below). On almost any given wine list, at least 90% of the (nondessert) wines are dry, so this word actually communicates very little about what you like. It's much more useful to share a preference for wines that are not dry, if you have one: either off-dry wines that are just lightly sweet or fully sweet wines. Tannic or Smooth As mentioned above, many people use the word "dry" when they actually mean "tannic." That's because tannin, the astringent compound found in red wine, can actually make your mouth feel quite dry. If you've ever over-steeped a pot of black tea (which also contains tannin), you'll recognize that sensation easily. Tannins give red wine body and structure and tend to be more aggressive in young wines; they mellow out with age. Some grape varieties are naturally predisposed to high tannin levels. If that's your thing, be sure to mention it. If you prefer to avoid tannic wines, the word you'll want to use is "smooth." Acidity Do you like wines that make your mouth water and pucker? If so, ask for a high-acidity wine. If, on the other hand, you find that sensation unpleasant, low acidity is the way to go. Acidity works on a spectrum, of course, and you may find yourself somewhere in between. Note that if a wine has too little acidity, it might taste flat, flabby or overly alcoholic. If it has too much, it can be overwhelmingly tart. Body Some people prefer their wines to be light, lively and airy, while others want to drink something quite a bit more substantial; many people find their sweet spot lies between the two. Think of light-bodied wines like water, medium-bodied wines like skim milk, and full-bodied wines like whole milk or cream. Alcohol goes hand-in-hand with body, so if you seek lower-alcohol wines, light-bodied selections are the way to go. Oaky Fermenting or aging wines in new oak (barrels that have not been previously used) will give them a woody profile accompanied by a range of characteristics from coconut to vanilla to Christmas spice. If you like those flavors, you'll want to mention that you prefer an oaky wine; if you prefer to taste the purity of the fruit, you might ask to avoid wines aged in new oak. Once a barrel has been used two or three times, it's considered to be neutral and will no longer impart aromas or flavors to the wine, but it will contribute a pleasing texture and help to soften the tannins in red wines. Buttery Buttery flavors in wine (most notably, some domestic chardonnays) come from a process called malolactic fermentation, in which the tangy malic acid in the wine (think green apples) is converted to softer, gentler lactic acid (think yogurt, cheese or, well, butter). No need to get all scientific on this one; the word "buttery" works just fine. Wherever you land on the butter preference spectrum, this is an especially important term when you're ordering chardonnay—there's no shortage of great options either way. Fruit-Forward, Earthy, Funky or Floral If you enjoy wines that primarily display flavors of fruit, you'll want to request a wine that's fruit-forward. These tend to be bright, approachable and easy to drink. The fruit flavors themselves vary with each grape variety—white wines can be redolent of tropical fruits, citrus or stone fruit, while reds might have characteristics like cherries, berries or plums. Earthy wines, on the other hand, show more savory qualities, like dried herbs, leather, tobacco or tar, or even dirt or barnyard. If you're not afraid to get really earthy, you might request a wine that is "funky" —a descriptor often applied to natural wines. If you prefer to keep things delicate and pretty, wines with floral aromatics like rose, violet or orange blossom can be remarkably appealing. Price Range This is where ordering wine can sometimes get awkward, especially if you're dining with someone you don't know well. If you don't want to indicate it out loud, once you've determined the price you're comfortable paying, simply point to the price of a wine on the list and casually mention to your server that you'd like something along those lines. They'll get the hint. Specific Grape Varieties or Regions If there's a region or grape variety that you know you love, sharing this with your sommelier can be one of the best ways to get a great selection. A simple statement like "I love malbec from Argentina" or "sauvignon blanc is my favorite grape" communicates an enormous amount of information about your preferences, especially if you're not yet ready to articulate the specific qualities of the wines you enjoy. Knowing that you like sauvignon blanc lets your server infer that you prefer light-bodied, high-acidity white wines with bright citrus and herbal flavors, so they can guide you toward something new and interesting to try—for instance, an Austrian grüner veltliner.

Q: What's the difference between Bordeaux and Burgundy, and why can't I find examples of either from California?—Cathy, Modesto, Calif.

A: Bordeaux and Burgundy are both wine regions in France—and these terms refer to wines from those places. It can be confusing, but labeling laws vary around the world, and in Europe, wines are referred to by their geographic origin. Bordeaux and Burgundy (and Chianti and Champagne, among others) can only be used to refer to wines from those regions. In New World regions like the United States, South America and Australia, bottles of wine will typically note the region in which the grapes are grown—places like California's Napa Valley, Argentina's Mendoza or Australia's Barossa Valley—and will also usually name the type of grape that the wine is made from (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon, for example). If you want to know what grapes are in a bottle of Bordeaux or Burgundy, you have to do a little more research. Bordeaux's red wines are largely made from either Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, along with Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. White wines from Bordeaux are usually blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Meanwhile, Burgundy's red wines are made from Pinot Noir, while white Burgundies are made from Chardonnay. (For more on those two regions, check out our short Wine 101 videos on the ABCs of Bordeaux and Burgundy.) So if you're looking for California versions of the wines of Burgundy, keep an eye out for Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, and there are lots of Bordeaux-style Cabernet-based red blends made in the Golden State, which are sometimes referred to as Meritage. But keep in mind that California wines made from the same grapes as those of France can differ greatly in style.—MaryAnn Worobiec

Q: I've started collecting wine on wooden racks in my hall closet. I have about 75 bottles in there, and now the closet has a wine smell. I've checked all the bottles and didn't find any with leaks. Is this normal? I'm also concerned because I have some jackets in that closet as well. I love the smell of wine, but not on my clothes.—N., San Diego, Calif.

A: Congrats on starting your wine collection! Check out our guide to storing wine for more in-depth information about keeping your prized bottles in peak condition. Regarding the wine smell in your closet, I can think of two scenarios. It's possible that some of the labels and corks smell like wine simply because they were stored in wineries and absorbed the smell there. But more likely is that there is indeed a leaking bottle—perhaps the leak is hiding under the wine's capsule that covers the top of the bottle, or there could be a small puncture in a screwcap. I'd open the closet door and run a fan for a while to air it out, and charcoal and baking soda are both good options for absorbing the offending odor, although I would not introduce any new odor sources in an effort to cover up the wine smell. As for finding the culprit, you could try smelling each bottle, but you may want to remove the tops of the capsules and examine the corks for seepage or signs that the corks have been pushed out.—MaryAnn Worobiec

Q: Does non-alcoholic wine provide the same health benefits as regular wine?

A: Non-alcoholic wine is fermented wine that has then had the alcohol removed through either reverse osmosis or vacuum distillation. Many of wine's health benefits are attributed to its polyphenols, resveratrol being the most heavily researched. These polyphenols and their beneficial antioxidant properties remain in the wine after the alcohol has been removed. "After the process of removing alcohol, polyphenols are still abundant in non-alcoholic wine and can raise the blood levels of these polyphenols," Dr. Matthew Taylor, professor of dietetics and nutrition at the University of Kansas Medical Center told Wine Spectator. There have only been a few studies comparing the effects of non-alcoholic red wine versus regular red wine on markers of health. Dr. Taylor says the research showed that moderate consumption of both non-alcoholic red wine and regular red wine provided health benefits, but that non-alcoholic wine actually outperformed regular wine at reducing blood pressure and total cholesterol. Dr. Taylor suggests taking the scant findings with a grain of salt, however, as researchers still have much to uncover about alcohol's role in wine's health benefits. But all those beneficial polyphenols in wine come from the grapes themselves, so there's also lots of evidence that eating grapes and drinking grape juice are good for you. According to Mayo Clinic dietician Katherine Zeratsky, "some research studies suggest that red and purple grape juices may provide some of the same heart benefits of red wine, including reducing the risk of blood clots, reducing low-density lipoprotein (LDL, or 'bad') cholesterol, preventing damage to blood vessels in your heart and helping maintain a healthy blood pressure."—Shawn Zylberberg

What Is Bottle Shock (and How Do You Fix It)?

Bottle shock, sometimes called "bottle sickness," describes a recently packaged or shipped wine that tastes temporarily "dumb," or with aromas and flavors that have seemingly shut down. It often occurs in wines that have been jostled for an extended period, like when it goes from tank or barrel through the bottling line, or when it's shipped a significant distance. If you drive home from your local retail shop with a few wines in your trunk, you won't cause bottle shock. But when a wine has traveled some distance over several days from the winery, to the shipper, and then to your home, it can get unsettled. Wines that have traveled overseas by container are especially susceptible. If you ship several bottles internationally to drink soon, let them rest at least a week before opening. Even so, some wines will simply refuse to open up. How do you spot them? Your Cheat Sheet to Cellaring Wine They won't have much, if any, aromatics. Depending on the variety or blend, you might expect standard scents in a young white wine, like fruits, especially citrus and flowers. Aromas in red wines include black fruits, toast and coffee. If you sniff and get nothing, followed by very little flavor, it may suffer from bottle shock. The fruit will seem transient or thin, the finish muted. That said, there shouldn't be any obvious flaws like off scents or funky flavors. Bottle shock has no scientific definition, nor is it caused by any bacteria or yeast. So, what's the fix? Mainly, more time. Some wineries include a note in their club shipments to wait a week or two before opening a bottle. It's worth it to ask when a young wine was bottled. If it was bottled within the last couple of months and then shipped, it may require a few weeks or even months to settle back down. Sometimes, a wine will open up more quickly with aggressive aeration or decanting. Usually, that will fix a reductive wine or one bottled with a little too much sulfur dioxide, and it may help it come out of shock. The best solution for bottle shock is to avoid it entirely. Always treat your cellared wines carefully and avoid too much movement or vibration. Published on June 11, 2020

1980-1990 CHARDONNAY EXPANDS TO OREGON

Chardonnay vineyards continued to expand along California's coastline. Santa Barbara County saw a boom with winemakers like Jim Clendenen, who established Au Bon Climat, and vintner Jess Jackson, who purchased the famed Tepusquet Vineyard and established Cambria Estate Winery. In Sonoma, Mark Aubert's vineyard-designate wines showcased another side of Chardonnay. In Oregon, many credit David Adelsheim with rewriting Oregon Chardonnay's fate. After spending time in Burgundy, Adelsheim realized the issue in Oregon wasn't the climate, but the clones. He tirelessly worked to bring Burgundian plant material to Oregon, resulting in the region's current Chardonnay boom.

We Tested Three DIY Winemaking Kits for Beginners

Ever wonder about how your favorite Cabernet, Pinot Noir or Pinot Grigio gets made? You're in luck! There are an array winemaking kits to help you learn how to craft your own wine from the comfort of your home. No vineyard required. These three kits from Craft a Brew, RJS Craft Winemaking and Global Vintners Inc. are arranged from least intensive to most intensive. And they come at a variety of price points. Each kit offers a deeper look into the winemaking process and a deeper appreciation for what's in your glass. For beginners who want wine in 30 Days: Craft a Brew Winemaking Kit What's inside: Glass carboy, funnel, racking cane, rubber stopper, transfer tubing, tubing clamp, airlock, grape juice, yeast, any applicable additives, five cork stoppers, no-rinse sanitizer and an instruction booklet Options: Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon Makes: One gallon of wine As Craft a Brew puts it, "Consider this kit a pool floaty for the beginner winemaker: It helps you jump in without fear." This is ideal for those who want more of a hands-on home winemaking experience without a big investment of time. Day one: Fermentation I was a little intimidated when I started prepping my Pinot Grigio. But the included instructions are broken down into such a simple manner it allows one to "jump" into the winemaking process with confidence. The entire fermentation process took me about 30 minutes. The longest part of the process was making sure the necessary equipment was properly sanitized, which is vital in preventing unwanted microbes from spoiling the wine. Once everything is sanitized, you add warm water and bentonite, a clay that helps prevent your wine from clouding. After that, it's just a matter of adding the juice, any applicable additives and some water to reach the one-gallon mark. Then, you pitch the yeast and seal the carboy with the airlock cap and stopper. It's important to keep your wine stored in a dark area, so I kept mine in a kitchen cabinet. Day 14: Clarifying and degassing Clarifying and degassing my wine took me about 40 minutes and was the longest part of my process. But it's an important step to ensure your wine is clear when it comes time for bottling. The instructions don't call to sanitize your equipment, but I did just to be safe. To start, you need to siphon the wine into a clean container. I used a stockpot that I already had. If you can, practice siphoning water from one container to another, since it can be difficult. However, the Craft a Brew instruction booklet provides a very helpful illustrated guide. Once the wine has been removed and your carboy rinsed, the directions call for siphoning the wine back into the jug to stir in any needed additives. I found it easier to keep my wine in the pot, add everything I needed and then pour the wine back into the carboy through a sanitized funnel. Day 30: Bottling The kit comes with five caps, which only fit standard, cork-finish bottles, so be sure to save your empties while your wine is fermenting. The whole bottling process took me about 30 minutes. Once you're done, you can enjoy a celebratory glass of homemade wine right away or leave bottles in the fridge for up to six months. $60-$70 Amazon and UncommonGoods For hands-on home winemakers: RJS Craft Winemaking International What's inside: Juice concentrate, yeast, bentonite, sulphite, potassium sorbate, kieselsol, chitosan, instructions and any other applicable additives Options: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and more Makes: 30 750-ml bottles This kit is perfect for the person who wants more of a hands-on home winemaking experience but with a moderate number of steps. I liked how the process was more challenging, but the directions are laid out in such a way that I was able to jump right in with confidence. RJS also has a toll-free helpline and an email you can reach out to if you're struggling with winemaking. Plus, the company offers options ranging from Merlot to white blends, so there's something for everyone. The kit doesn't come with winemaking equipment, but RJS sells one separately. However, I used my Northern Brewer brewing equipment, which worked fine. Day one: Fermentation Getting the wine ready for fermentation took me about an hour. The model doesn't come with no-rinse sanitizer, so be sure to order some beforehand. Once you have all your equipment sanitized, it's just a matter of mixing all the ingredients and keeping your wine between 68-78 degrees Fahrenheit. Before you store your wine in a dark, warm place, you'll want to take a specific gravity reading. RJS Craft Winemaking recommends having a wine thief, which is a tool that extracts a small amount of wine from the fermentation bucket. I fermented my wine in a bucket with a spigot, so I just poured some wine into a cylinder and used a hydrometer from a brew kit to take my initial reading. Approximately day 14: Stabilizing and clearing The fermentation process takes approximately two weeks. However, for this kit, you'll want to wait for your specific gravity to drop to 0.998 or lower. Monitoring my wine's gravity level was one of my favorite aspects of the process, as it allowed me to take more ownership over my wine and gave me a better understanding of its fermentation. Then, it's just a matter of siphoning your wine into a new container; vigorously stirring to get rid of the carbon dioxide that builds up during fermentation; and mix in the additives. Approximately day 35: Bottling Your wine should be ready to bottle in just over a month, but RJS notes it's important to make sure your wine is completely clear first. If you haven't been saving your empties, you can pick up some bottles here. Once you're done, be sure to check out RJS's website for wine and food pairing suggestions. $105-$110 Amazon For the most dedicated DIY winemakers: Global Vintners Inc. What's inside the ingredient kit: Wine base, reserve (if applicable), oak (if applicable), bentonite, potassium metabisulphite/potassium sorbate, yeast, instructions and fining agents Makes: 30 750-ml bottles Options: Australian Chardonnay, California Cabernet Sauvignon, Chilean Merlot and more What's inside the winemaking kit: 8-gallon fermenter, 6-gallon carboy, racking tube and tubing, fermentation lock and stopper, mixing spoon, solid bung, hydrometer, corks, wine labels and a bottle corker Price of winemaking kit: $120 This Global Vintners Inc. kit is perfect for those who want to jump right into a more intensive home-winemaking process. Aside from the bottles and no-rinse sanitizer, their kit provides the essentials to getting started. Day one: Primary fermentation Before you start fermentation, make sure all your equipment is properly sanitized and mix the grape juice with applicable additives. The process took me about an hour. You'll need to monitor your wines' specific gravity over the coming weeks. The instructions provide a helpful log where you can record both the date you began each step in the process and the specific gravity measurement at the time. I found it helpful to refer to their online resources, which explain everything from how to use equipment to general questions about winemaking. Day 14 and 15: Stabilizing, degassing and clearing Unlike the other kits, these steps are split into two days. Make sure you have enough no-rinse sanitizer to clean your equipment and block out enough time on day 14 to properly stir your wine. Days 26-56: Polishing, racking and aging The type of wine you're making will determine when you can bottle and drink your beverage. When it comes time to bottle, make sure you have 30 sanitized and ready to go.

Italian wine labels: Understanding DOCG, DOC & IGT

Ever wondered what the letters on your bottle of Italian wine mean? Here are some of the main differences between DOCG, DOC and IGT... James ButtonJune 10, 2020 Montepulciano in Tuscany is home to the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG. Credit: Photo by Łukasz Czechowicz on Unsplash Ask Decanter Highlights You may have seen the letters DOCG or IGT on Italian wine labels. They are part of the Italian wine classification system, which shares similarities with the French AOC appellation system. Since its launch in the early 1960s, Italy's system has undergone several key updates and refinements. The modern-day hierarchy has four tiers: DOCG DOC IGT VdT While this is intended to provide a guide to quality, there are exceptions. Some Italian wineries opt out of DOC and DOCG rules, for instance, often to pursue different winemaking techniques or use particular grape varieties. DOCG What it stands for: 'Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita' DOCG is the highest tier of the Italian wine classification system. It has the most stringent quality controls in place, with all wines undergoing analysis and testing by a government-approved panel. In addition, yields are generally lower and barrel-ageing is longer than for a DOC. The geographical limits are usually more restrictive and tightly defined, too. The first few DOCGs were introduced in 1980, and today there are still relatively few; just 77 across Italy. Examples: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG; Barolo DOCG; Chianti DOCG; Franciacorta DOCG. DOC What it stands for: 'Denominazione di Origine Controllata' DOCs provide the meat of quality Italian wine. They still provide strict rules on winemaking and are based on geographical areas, but the regulations are slightly more relaxed versus DOCGs. There are currently more than 330 DOCs in Italy. Examples: Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC; Aglianico del Vulture DOC; Bolgheri DOC; Soave DOC. IGT What it stands for: 'Indicazione Geografica Tipica' Created in 1992, IGTs were intended to provide a tier above the basic Vino da Tavola (VdT) for quality wines that didn't meet the regulations for DOC or DOCG. So-called Super Tuscan wines are a prime example. Today, the IGT classification is home to wines made in a more 'international' style, eschewing some of the traditional winemaking methods and grape variety stipulations set down by DOCs and DOCG regulations. A wide range of quality and prices is represented, and there are currently more than 120 IGTs in Italy. Examples: Toscana IGT; Veneto IGT; Puglia IGT; Isola dei Nuraghi IGT.

Allergens in wine

How often is sodium benzoate used in wine? Justin Knock MWMay 23, 2020 Credit: Thomas Schaefer / Unsplash Ask Decanter Magazine: June 2020 Issue Jane Morrill, by email, asks: I understand that sodium benzoate can be added to wines as a preservative. I have been diagnosed with a sodium benzoate allergy and am now aware of foods that contain it, so wondered how often it is used in wine and if it is allowed in all regions? Justin Knock MW, director of The Purple Hand Wine Consultancy, replies: Sodium benzoate is used in the food industry to suppress the growth of yeast, and is permitted for use in wine in some countries for the same purpose so as to avoid refermentation in bottle. However, it is not permitted to be used in wine shipped within the EU - potassium sorbate is permitted and used instead. So, at this point in time, readers in the UK and EU who are concerned about sodium benzoate have no cause for concern when it comes to wine. Of course the context of this may change over the next 12 months, so it's a topic worth coming back to next year. Yeasts are of course essential to making wine, and are only a concern to winemakers if sugar is retained in the wine, or added back to the wine as either grape concentrate or a dosage, at the point of packaging. The use of sorbates is not that common, but they can be used on wines that have 2-15g/L of residual sugar - including many red and white styles where producers aim to make a wine soft, fruity or mellow. In practice, wineries would use sterile filtration as a non-chemical alternative to avoid refermentation on these kinds of wines. (Editor's note: in the US FDA's Food Additive Status List, published online, sodium benzoate is categorised as 'Generally recognised as safe', but with a limit for use in foods where allowed.) This question first appeared in the June 2020 issue of Decanter magazine.

1980-1990 CHARDONNAY GROWTH EXPLODES IN AMERICA

In just one decade, the world's Chardonnay plantings quadrupled to over 45,000 acres. By 1988, there was more Chardonnay planted in California than France.

Williamette Valley

Oregon's Willamette Valley is comprised of a number of hillsides framing a series of sloping vineyards, all of which are protected from the influence of the hot interior valley to the east by a north-south running mountain range. Soils here are either volcanic (Jory) or sedimentary (Willakenzie) along with a few loess, or wind-blown examples. Volcanic soils tend to produce Chardonnays with high-toned aromatics and firm structural elements while Chardonnays from the sedimentary soils tend toward more fleshiness and ripeness in general. Either way, Oregon Chardonnay tends towards freshness and vivid acidity. "It's really exciting to see Chardonnay winemaking coming full circle and taking on a global personality and being able to speak to so many different consumers and styles." - Eugenia Keegan, General Manager, Jackson Family Wines Oregon

A 40-Year-Old Decree Makes Napa Winery Weddings Nearly Impossible

People are frequently shocked to discover that of the hundreds of Napa Valley wineries, just five are allowed to hold weddings on-site. The five, Beringer Vineyards, Merryvale Vineyards, V. Sattui Winery, Charles Krug Winery and Brasswood Estate, all in St. Helena, were grandfathered in to what some call an antiquated rule that regulates winery events. In 1989, the Napa County Board of Supervisors passed a Winery Definition Ordinance (WDO), which classified wineries as agricultural processing facilities. Why this means that wineries can't host weddings is rooted in Napa's past. An Armchair Traveler's Guide to Napa Valley Wine Country From the 1920s to the '60s, factors like Prohibition, vineyard-infesting aphids and bigger moneymaker crops limited wine production and availability in Napa. As a result, housing and other businesses began to expand onto agricultural land. By 1968, the loss of farmland had become so significant that the state floated an idea to run a major highway through the valley. Nearby regions had already faced a similar issue. Santa Clara Valley, for example, lost more than 60,000 acres of agricultural land from the 1930s to 1970s. So, the Napa board created the country's first agricultural preserve to protect the farmlands and ensure agricultural use. People are frequently shocked to discover that of the hundreds of Napa Valley wineries, just five are allowed to hold weddings on-site. As more wineries opened in Napa over the next 20 years, the board aimed to ensure such expansion didn't compromise the area's agricultural integrity. Enter the WDO, which defines wineries and limits the business can be conducted on their grounds. As agricultural processing facilities, wineries can produce, market and sell wines, as well as host wine-related educational activities. Weddings, as events that are not based in agriculture, don't qualify. Wineries that played host to weddings before the decree were exempt from the rule. The ordinance is controversial among members of the wine and wedding industries. "Many of the guidelines of the WDO are antiquated and prohibit economic stimulus, especially in regard to weddings and social events," says Madeleine Reid, the director of events and hospitality at Castello di Amorosa in Calistoga, California. "Most wineries are able to host wine education events, which are lunches or dinners with an educational component [like a tour or wine-paired meal] and have similar guidelines to wineries who are able to host weddings. "The same standards and rules that apply to one type of event should apply to all events. And all types of events should be allowed at every winery, if the guidelines are followed." Domaine Carneros, Napa, California / Photo courtesy Domaine Carneros A local photographer, Dona Kopol Bonick, agrees. "As a whole, I think the regulations are unwarranted, unnecessary and detrimental to winery operations," says Bonick, who argues that weddings and marketing events are similar. "A wedding can be the ultimate marketing event as people come from all parts...of the world and many times have never had the experience of visiting a winery." Some agree with the regulations, though. Adrienne D.A. Smith, general manager for Parallel Napa Valley, which hosts its weddings at Brasswood Estate, says that Napa is a small place, "just two roads going north to south." If everyone could have weddings there, Smith says, the area would be overwhelmed with traffic. Others say that weddings might not be a good business model for wineries, as the industry and its audience has changed. "Our permit is for a winery, not a wedding location," says Eileen Crane, CEO of Domaine Carneros, which is not allowed to have weddings. "There were fewer wineries and fewer guests that came to wine country [in 1989]. It was a much smaller world. It was easier to block off a Saturday afternoon for a wedding. Now, for wineries that receive guests on a regular basis, it would be off-putting or difficult. "If the county said you could have weddings now, I don't think we would."

In early 2020, a team at UCLA found that tiny shockwaves play a big role in making these patterns that wash up inside a wineglass after a good swish of Cabernet, Port or other high-alcohol vino. RIGHT! The answer is: Wine tears Next

RIGHT! The answer is: Wine tears Next

Four Ways to Pair Wine with Truffles

The great 19th-century epicure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once called truffles "the very diamond of gastronomy." In that line of thought, Italian white truffles, which grow wild from late summer through winter, are the most coveted gems of all. Though they're found throughout Italy, as well as other countries in the Adriatic region, those from Piedmont are considered the gold standard. These pricy fungi grow underground and share chemical compounds with some beguiling, not-always-pleasant aromas like wet dog. When you pair with wine, focus on their many more attractive attributes. Mushroomy With similar woodsy, mushroom-like notes—and even aromas of white truffles—Barolo is a classic pairing. Made from Nebbiolo in the area just southwest of Alba, the informal truffle capital of Italy, its tannins help cut the richness of truffle-laced pastas and risottos. Earthy White truffles smell invitingly of the wet soil in which they grow. An exuberantly fruity Pinot Noir could overwhelm this quality, but one of the earthiest and most elegant expressions of the grape, red Burgundy, would be an ideal match. If you're able to splurge, opt for a Grand Cru from the Côte de Nuits. Honeyed While they don't necessarily smell sugary sweet, white truffles have a floral and spicy sweetness reminiscent of honey. Marsanne features honeyed pear, apricot, acacia and Christmas spice flavors that will bring out the truffles' richer side. Marsanne-based Hermitage Blanc would be an especially luxe option. Garlicky White truffle has an appealingly pungent garlic aroma, but you won't want that sulfurous note in your wine. Choose to sip something with flavors that complement garlic, like the olive, bacon and peppery notes of Côte-Rôtie. This Northern Rhône wine represents the pinnacle of Syrah.

Binge Drinking Is Bad. So Why Is the U.S. Government Targeting Moderate Wine Consumption?

Discouraging people from healthy drinking habits is not the solution for stopping alcohol abuse America's relationship with alcohol ... It's complicated. (Ullstein bild via Getty Images) By Mitch Frank Aug 19, 2020 It's easy to forget how big an impact the French Paradox had on wine's role in America—really on all alcohol in America. We had always had a tortured relationship with alcohol—any nation that outlaws all booze and then spends the next 13 years devoting a huge amount of energy toward circumventing that ban has some issues to work out. But Morley Safer's 60 Minutes report on the French Paradox, the idea that moderate consumption of alcohol, preferably consumed with food, could actually improve health, opened a new chapter in our love-hate romance. A series of scientific studies over the next decade added credible backing to the idea that alcohol, possibly red wine in particular, could improve cardiovascular health. The impact on the U.S. wine industry was dramatic. In 1970, America drank about 118 million cases of wine, according to Impact Databank, one of Wine Spectator's sister publications. By 1985, it was 210 million cases. But there was a deeper change—a cultural one. Americans began to view alcohol less as a sin and more as a lifestyle choice. A glass of wine or two with dinner was acceptable, not a sign of dependency or European pretension. But like a couple who hasn't worked on their relationship in too long, America and alcohol are starting to backslide into old habits. A vocal segment of public health experts, worried about the legitimate problem of binge drinking, is pushing back on the idea that moderate consumption can be healthy. Every five years, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and Health and Human Services (HHS) issue federal dietary guidelines. Before the final guidelines are set, a panel of respected health experts studies nutritional topics and writes an advisory report. In 1995, the report broke new ground when it stated for the first time that there was significant evidence that moderate alcohol consumption had positive health benefits. "Current evidence suggests that moderate drinking ... is associated with a lower risk for coronary heart disease in some individuals." Over the next 20 years, the guidelines changed around the edges, but continued to support the idea that a drink, in moderation, could have positive impacts. In 2015, they read, "If alcohol is consumed, it should be in moderation—up to one drink per day for women and up to two drinks per day for men." The scientific consensus has not changed much in the five years since the 2015 guidelines came out. But when the scientific panel report for the 2020 guidelines arrived last month, it brought an unpleasant surprise. The guidelines were being changed—men should cut their consumption in half. If you drink, the panel recommended, don't consume more than one drink per day. What's more, the tone of the report was dramatically different. Recent panels have balanced the idea that too much alcohol is a serious health problem but, at the same time, the evidence shows that those who drink in moderation have a lower all-cause mortality rate. The first section of the 2010 report shows that balance: "Heavy drinking increases the risk of liver cirrhosis, hypertension, cancers of the upper gastrointestinal tract, injury and violence. A recent analysis of the preventable causes of mortality in the United States (U.S.) attributed 90,000 deaths a year to alcohol misuse." But, as it goes on to say in the same paragraph, "It is estimated that the benefits attributed to moderate alcohol consumption resulted in 26,000 fewer deaths from heart disease, stroke and diabetes." The 2020 report? "Alcohol consumption accounts for approximately 100,000 deaths annually in the United States." That's it. There is no mention of moderate consumption offering any benefits. Instead, the panel is dismissive of studies showing a link between moderate drinking and lower rates of cardiovascular disease. As for research showing a link between moderate consumption and lower rates of diabetes or dementia, the panel doesn't even mention them. Dr. Timothy Naimi, a doctor and alcohol epidemiologist at Boston Medical Center and a professor with the Boston University Schools of Medicine and Public Health, was the leader of the panel. I asked him, Why the change? "The evidence is pretty clear that, generally speaking, drinking less is better for health than drinking more," he told me. "And while many studies focus on two or less [drinks per day] for men, studies that look at smaller increments of consumption and meta-analyses and modeling studies based on cohort studies which can generate more detailed risk curves suggest consuming two drinks is associated with higher mortality than drinking one drink." But the panel's primary focus is on binge drinking, a problem that has been growing in recent years. Naimi's career has focused on the impacts of binge drinking and substance abuse. "The main issue is getting people to reduce their drinking to more moderate levels—either based on current or the proposed revised recommendations," said Naimi. "We have a ways to go. So the data support the recommendation, but also with the alcohol-cancer concerns and other types of studies suggesting no benefit for alcohol on heart disease, folks are becoming more cautious about endorsing the consumption of other than relatively low amounts." I suspect that like other health experts I have spoken to in recent years, the panel members believe that a green light for moderate consumption invariably leads to drinking too much. The USDA and HHS will issue their final guidelines later this year. (The all-too-brief public comment period, which was less than a month, has already closed.) If they adopt the panel's recommendations, America will match the United Kingdom, where public health authorities slashed their guidelines for men from two drinks to one in 2016. But will discouraging moderate drinking reduce binge drinking? I seriously doubt it. America's relationship with alcohol still needs a lot of work. Killing the idea that a glass or two of wine with dinner can offer health benefits will not combat alcohol abuse. In fact, it could hurt that fight by effectively saying that the only reason to drink is to get drunk.

What the #$@! Do I Do with This? Absinthe: What It Is and How to Use It.

No, it won't make you hallucinate. But too many of these cocktails might. Written by Kelly Magyarics Published 08/25/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Laura Sant You bought a spirit or liqueur because a cocktail recipe called for a very minute amount. Now you're stuck with the remaining 9/10ths of the bottle and what to do with it. No worries. Thrifty bartenders weigh in with tips and recipes for getting every last drop out of an underutilized ingredient so it doesn't gather dust on your bar shelf. Chances are your introduction to absinthe probably falls into one of three categories. Maybe you were so intrigued by watching it turn white, or "louche," after bartenders dispensed it from a Belle Epoque-era-looking fountain on a bartop that you had to buy your own bottle to partake in the ritual at home, only to find that your palate grew tired of the pronounced anise note after just a few sips. Perhaps you discovered it when you ordered a Sazerac, a classic cocktail that calls for an absinthe rinse, adding aroma and a hint of flavor. Or possibly you remember something about the green stuff taking the blame for inducing hallucinations in bohemian artists and poets in 19th-century Parisian bars. But absinthe is more than a color-changing novelty liqueur, liquid garnish or mind-altering substance. That third claim is unfounded, by the way; any odd thoughts or behavior resulting from overconsuming absinthe almost certainly were caused by the spirit's high proof (which ranges from 90 to 148) rather than the miniscule amount of wormwood in the booze. Still, the liqueur continues to be misunderstood and underused. It's time to get a little cozier with la fée verte. "Folks often don't know what to do with absinthe because it's such an in-your-face spirit," says Dzu Nguyen, the beverage director for Horsefeather in San Francisco. "While that is true, it's just a matter of thinking of it as the rule of either 'go easy or go all in.'" By that, he means adding a few dashes for a whiff of aromatics and a whisper of flavor or starting with absinthe as the base spirit and building a drink's other components around it. Nguyen believes absinthe's intense anisette flavor goes best with bright herbal tones like mint, shiso and basil, as well as rich and dense flavors such as coconut, coffee and chocolate. When guests request a "bartender's choice" cocktail containing absinthe, his go-to is a version of an Espresso Martini. Nguyen's Death by Morning, its name a play on the classic absinthe-and-Champagne cocktail, the Death in the Afternoon, shakes absinthe with coffee liqueur, Branca Menta, espresso, demerara sugar, Angostura bitters and sea salt, served up with a mint sprig and expressed oils from an orange peel. Keith Meicher, the head bartender at Sepia in Chicago, finds that blanc vermouth and kina, a French aperitif made with cinchona bark and spices, both have a great affinity for absinthe. His Absinthe Piña Colada swizzles absinthe with blanc vermouth, fresh pineapple juice, coconut puree, lemon juice and simple syrup, garnished with a pineapple wedge and frond, mint leaf and burnt cinnamon stick. He also makes a variation on a Quill, essentially an absinthe-tinged Negroni, with gin, Dolin blanc and Luxardo Bitter Bianco, stirred and strained over a large rock in an absinthe-rinsed glass and garnished with a grapefruit swath. Meicher prefers the subtlety of St. George Spirits absinthe from California or locally produced Letherbee absinthe. "I've tasted different brands that feature lemongrass, apple, cinnamon, sorrel and everything in-between," he says. "There's a world of opportunity out there." "A forever hack of mine with absinthe is that it plays incredibly well off cardamom," says Wilmer Nolasco, the head bartender at Ivy Lane in New York City. On his cocktail menu, drinks are listed by numbers rather than names. The Fourteen is described as an overproof gin swizzle, with gin, pear brandy, apricot, Manzanilla sherry, falernum, coconut, lime, absinthe and cardamom bitters, while the Twelve is an "herbaceous aquavit and absinthe sour," with O.P. Anderson aquavit, génépy, dry and blanc vermouths, lime, lime cordial, absinthe, tarragon and cardamom bitters. "Absinthe's best attributes are that it's nuanced but very upfront about what it is," says Nolasco. "Too often, I see people overuse the ingredient in terms of proportion." No matter whether absinthe is the star or supporting player, it needs to be balanced by a cocktail's other ingredients. So while absinthe's supposed psychotropic attributes are a misconception, Nguyen believes the rumor does serve to bolster the spirit's reputation and introduce a new generation to its heady, alluring pleasures. "It's a spirit for the adventurous, artistic and bold," he says. Absinthe Suisse Liquor.com / Tim Nusog "To me, absinthe is meant to fill one of two roles," says Nolasco. "It's either a base spirit or a supporting ingredient meant to highlight other flavors in drinks." A full ounce goes into his take on the Absinthe Suissesse, a New Orleans brunch cocktail that's a relative of the Ramos Gin Fizz. Get the recipe. Death By Morning Liquor.com / Tim Nusog For absinthe-fueled cocktails like this take on the Espresso Martini, Nguyen prefers to use Vieux Pontarlier absinthe from France for its deep complexity and the fact that "it's not just pungent star anise to the face," he says. Including mint, amaro and Angostura bitters brings out the drink's dark chocolate, spearmint and chicory notes. Get the recipe. Quill Riff Liquor.com / Tim Nusog "Some people might be turned off absinthe because they fear it's too dominant a flavor," says Meicher. "But with a deft hand, you can balance any cocktail." The traditional Quill cocktail is essentially a Negroni with the addition of a little absinthe. For this white variant, he replaces red vermouth with white, and Campari with Luxardo Bitter Bianco. It's a great beginner cocktail for the absinthe-curious, since it contains just a small amount to coat the glass, adding subtle scent and flavor. Get the recipe.

STYLE THE WINEMAKER'S CANVAS

Often called "the winemaker's canvas," Chardonnay not only reflects terroir, but a winemaker's signature style. However, it's not just about flavors and aromas; these days, it's also about texture. The choices a winemaker makes, from the pick time to the vessels to fermentation, all reveal themselves on the palate. THE VESSEL THE FERMENT THE PICK THE VESSEL A fundamental question winemakers needs to ask when selecting vessels is what type of material do they want to use. Oak From oak type to barrel age, toast level and the tightness of the grain, the options in oak barrel selection can look as widespread as branches extending from a tree trunk. "I like barrel-fermented Chardonnay and what it has to offer, specifically texturally but I also like the roles that cooperage can play in helping to maintain freshness on wines," says Erik Kramer of WillaKenzie. "I'm speaking about the role that new wood can play, but it needs to be wood that elevates without interference — unobtrusive wood." Oak tannin plays a pivotal role in creating mouthfeel, according to Kramer. "It provides volume and kind of a textual harmony, but that tannin that's present in the wood is also a strong antioxidant; I believe that a certain amount of this new wood can absolutely help. It absorbs oxygen and it actually helps maintain more expression." Conversely, Greg Brewer prefers neutral oak barrels for his Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay. "If the provenance is so coveted and if the raw materials are so epic, what happens if you kind of leave them alone?" he says. Citing the use of "really old barrels with no disturbance of the lees," he creates a Chardonnay that's "very straightforward; it's akin to slicing and plating raw fish at a sushi bar, essentially." The type of oak used brings varying aromatic compounds. French oak, which is used in the bestselling Kendall-Jackson bestselling Vintner's Reserve, imparts vanilla while American oak gives coconut and dill. Other types of oak, such as Hungarian and Slovenian, are also becoming a larger part of the conversation. Toast levels and grain density weave themselves into the equation, as well. "The kind of wood that I like to use for Chardonnay, is very lightly toasted with a very fine grain, and a minimum of 36-months' air drying," says Kramer. "It's really about that maintaining energy, but also kind of adding that creaminess and viscosity without something ever coming off as being planky or phenolic in any way. It's about elevating without interfering, and the amount of time in barrel certainly can have a role to play." Oak is so integral to Kendall-Jackson winemaker Randy Ullom's regimen that Kendall-Jackson crafts bespoke barrels to ensure total control over the winemaking process. "We source our oak down to the tree level in France and trace it all the way through the system to grain tightness, how long those staves had been aged, and then our toasting regime. We're very conscious of every little detail." Stainless Steel For Brewer, stainless steel offers a counterpoint to the ripe fruit and creates what he calls "bass and treble, savory-sweet," for his diatom wines. "It's all about equilibrium," he explains. "It's done at a very cold temperature, only in stainless steel. It's bottled early, so it's the most primal and pent up. The aspiration there is to capture something really before it has an opportunity to become something else; so, a wave before it breaks. That pent-up, cloistered kind of capture of Chardonnay is what the intent is, and the why behind that project." He cites a reverence for raw materials, and "I think with diatom, it's really that. It's the most kind of vulnerable, the rawest expression of Chardonnay that I can see producing, really." WORTH NOTING WILLAKENZIE ESTATE KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER'S RESERVE FREEMARK ABBEY NAPA VALLEY HARTFORD SEASCAPE VINEYARD CAMBRIA KATHERINE'S VINEYARD THE FERMENT A grape's journey into wine is comprised of numerous, measured steps, each carefully considered along the way. Yeast Commercial yeast remains popular for its consistency and reliability during fermentation, but some winemakers think the rewards of using indigenous yeasts far outweigh the risks. At Hartford Court, winemaker Jeff Stewart takes a lower-intervention approach. He does "not coerce the wines into a direction that fits a place, but the place kind of tells us what the wine wants to be," Stewart says. Essential to this terroir expression is uninoculated fermentation, which he feels offers a truer expression of the site. Skin Contact A level of experimentation also comes into play at Copain with Ryan Zepaltas's use of skin contact. Texturally, it provides "grip and backbone...an al dente, slightly underripe, green apple skin vibe," he says. He divides up crops as they come in from harvest: some fruit will be directly pressed, some will soak on the skins for a couple of hours, while others may macerate overnight. "When we get to the blending table, we have some of those options," he says. "A short amount of skin contact, four to eight hours, feels like it adds another layer in the resulting wines." Malolactic Fermentation For Kristy Melton at Freemark Abbey, a judicious use of malolactic fermentation also helps her achieve what she calls a "quintessential and timeless" Chardonnay. "We do about a 50 percent malolactic treatment on the wine as well, just enough to build some richness and complexity, but not to overwhelm the wine and make it single noted from those characters," she says. Greg Brewer on the other hand, feels the ripeness of his fruit doesn't call for malo. Comparing it to music, he says: "we bring in the fruit relatively ripe, so it's like base or volume or bottom-ended, fat in something. So, no stirring, usually no malo with his Brewer-Clifton's Chardonnay. We're not trying to flesh it out and we're not trying to tenderize it, because the fruit is coming in with volume and texture — that kind of viscosity comes from fruit weight." THE PICK Before grapes even reach the winery, decisions in the vineyard set the course for a wine's style. "When you decide to pick, you can make everything from sparkling to really rich, so that ripeness level is very important," says Melton. "We find that different ripeness levels are appropriate depending on the region." It's not just a grape's journey that commences in the field; many winemakers also hone their craft in the vineyards. "I've made lots of mistakes. I've picked too ripe and I've also picked way too early," says Ryan Zepaltas. "I feel that Chardonnay is best expressed in a lighter expression with moderate alcohol and good acidity." But finding that balance is a delicate dance. "I've certainly been guilty of picking too early because you're just trying to achieve low alcohol, but then you are kind of missing out on flavor," says Zepaltas. "Where I'm at is when that pendulum swings back towards the middle, where you're hanging the fruit a little bit longer, but still picking at a lower Brix; just being patient to let it hang a little bit longer to achieve flavors, because your acidity is usually there early on, and it tends to retain itself better on the vine in Chardonnay."

How to Buy Wine at the Supermarket, According to Sommeliers

Sommeliers drink supermarket wine, too. Many enjoy Hot Pockets for dinner, and—yes—there are cheap, cheery wines they truly love on Aisle 12. "I call them house wines," says Cassandra Felix, an advanced sommelier who relocated to California this year after a decade of work at The Breakers in Palm Beach, Florida. "When you cellar a bottle, you don't want to open it on a random Tuesday, so I make sure I always have a bottle that's easy to drink." As Americans make fewer trips to the grocery store and eat more meals at home, it's hard to beat a chance to stock up on olive oil, tortilla chips and $13 Albariño all in one place. Cassandra Felix / Photo by Lauren Samson Felix grew up in South Florida and knows how to navigate a Publix. Top shelf really means top shelf, she says, and shoppers can find bargain-focused wines on lower shelves. Her other advice: "Don't be embarrassed. Go ahead and throw a bottle in with your peanut butter and jelly." Sommelier Belinda Chang is a supermarket wine devotee. "It might amuse you, but I buy 90% of my wine at the grocery store," says Chang, who's led wine programs at iconic restaurants like Charlie Trotter's and The Modern. She lives in Chicago and shops at Mariano's, a regional supermarket chain that she says carries "$5.99 quaffers up to Silver Oak." Over the past several months, Chang has hosted a Virtual Boozy Brunch and high-end online wine experiences. Clients of the latter get her cell phone number for wine advice. She says that she has "guys texting me pictures of bottles from Costco and asking, 'Is this a good price?' " You don't need to have Chang in your smartphone to find great wines at the supermarket. Below, sommeliers share their go-to choices, from "chicken wine" to Left Bank Bordeaux. along with strategies to find the right bottle for any budget or palate. Costco's Kirkland Signature line of wines / Photo by France Freeman Drink varieties you like For those wary of straying from their favorite grape, Chang suggests wines made from the same variety, but in different styles or from various producers and regions. "If you always buy Gallo Merlot [from California], why not try Merlot from other parts of the world?" she asks. Jienna Basaldu, sommelier at The Morris in San Francisco, lives about a half-mile from Whole Foods in Oakland. There, she recently spied bottles of Boya Sauvignon Blanc ($18) from Chile's Leyda Valley. "I've visited the winery in Chile, and oh my God, are the wines good," she says. Basaldu once had to blind-taste Leyda Valley Sauvignon Blanc for a competition, and she was the only person to identify the region. Her fellow competitors all guessed New Zealand. Matthew Pridgen has shopped at Texas-based H-E-B for 20 years. On his Sundays off, the Underbelly Restaurant Group wine director spends the day tending to smoked meats. "I love a good California Zinfandel with barbecue, and the Ridge Vineyards Three Valleys Zinfandel ($30) from Sonoma is a steal," says Pridgen. "It has ripe berry fruit and just the right amount of spice and oak to pair with perfectly cooked ribs." "[Kirkland Signature Pauillac is] one of the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations for under $25. That's a hard find anywhere." —Vanessa Price, author/sommelier Hey there, rosé For a lighter meal in the Texas heat, say watermelon salad with feta and basil, Pridgen chills a bottle of Domaine du Salvard Rosé ($18) from Cheverny in the Loire Valley. "It has a delicate red fruit and citrus nose, and mouthwatering acidity," he says. "The wine punches way over its price tag." If you don't know whether you want a rosé from the Loire, Long Island or Lodi, don't be afraid to ask for recommendations, even at supermarkets. "Any good grocer will have someone on hand to help and point you in the direction of something delicious and reasonably priced," says Pridgen. For an easy-going porch pounder, Vanessa Price suggests a can of Trader Joe's $1 Simpler Wines Rosé. The sommelier and co-author of recently released Big Macs and Burgundy: A Pairing Guide for the Real World, says it's the ideal pink drink to pair with an outdoor meal of "hot dogs, burgers, and corn on the cob. It's full of ripe strawberries, raspberries and match-sparked citrus." Pick up a four-pack, she says, and "don't knock it until you try it." Is there a bird on the bottle? Chang also buys inexpensive rosé for year-round drinking, and although it's not a hard-and-fast rule, she's found she digs bottles with birds on them. Mariano's carries Two Birds One Stone Rosé ($10), a 100% Cinsault with two birds on the label. It's a vin de France, a kind of catch-all for French wines that don't meet other Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) guidelines. Vin de France wines are often a great value, says Chang, and their labels list the grape varieties used, which helps demystify the juice. Belinda Chang at Mariano's / Photo by Light Leak Pictures, Tim Musho She's also "obsessed with chicken wine," a.k.a. La Vieille Ferme ($7). "I keep all three flavors stocked at my house: rosé, white and red," says Chang. A rotisserie chicken lover, she pairs the rosé with a simply grilled bird, the white with chicken and a white wine-mushroom sauce, and the red with a coq au vin-like dish. Sushi and wine night On nights when Price watches Schitt's Creek and eats take-out sushi from Wegmans, she leans into the liter format and Hugl Grüner Veltliner ($10). "As if the extra 250 milliliters of vino isn't a bonus enough, the wine is produced by a family-owned and -operated winery," she says. "And it has the signature Grüner profile of electric acidity and savory white pepper." Basaldu pours Broadbent Vinho Verde ($10) with Whole Foods sushi. At 9% alcohol by volume (abv) with pleasant acid and restrained fruit, she says it's a crowd-pleaser that's also great for day drinking. Spanish for value Los Angeles sommelier Eduardo Bolaños, furloughed recently from Mozza Group, worked for years previously in San Sebastián, Spain. He put that knowledge to use hosting a Basque pop-up, Búho Rouge, with his brother. Bolaños cooks a lot more at home these days. When there are lamb chops or steaks on the grill, he opens a bottle of Marqués de Riscal Reserva Rioja ($16) from Trader Joe's. Eduardo Bolaños / Photo by Joben Herrera Felix is also a fan, but she thinks its red fruit and notes of savory leather and cedar pair best with Hot Pockets and DiGiorno frozen pizza. While not Spanish, Basaldu prefers an $18 one-liter bottle of Berger Zweigelt from Austria with her frozen pizza. For a New World-style Spanish offering, Felix recommends the fresh, vibrant fruit of the Marqués de Cáceres Crianza ($15). And for pre-bagged Caesar salad, Felix throws Martín Códax Albariño ($13) into her Publix cart. "The creaminess goes with the lees character that Albariño sometimes has, and the salinity cuts through cheese," she says. Whole Foods wine department in Naperville, IL / Photo courtesy Whole Foods Private label wines Basaldu picked up a 2014 Criterion Collection Rioja Reserva ($17) recently, a private-label selection from Whole Foods. The chain buys wines from iconic regions like Chablis, New Zealand and Barolo, and releases them under its own label. In addition to stewed cranberry, plum, cherry and grilled meat notes, "it almost has a barbecue potato-chip character," says Basaldu. Price snags Kirkland Signature Pauillac ($23) every time she sees it at Costco. "It's one of the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations for under $25," she says. "That's a hard find anywhere." While many cheap Left Bank Bordeaux are stemmy and vegetal, the bottling "has the red currant and baking spice verve you expect from classic Pauillac," she says. Add some sparkle to your cart For non-Chandon bubbles and aperitif hour, Bolaños buys Mionetto Prosecco ($14) from Ralphs, a West Coast supermarket chain. He has worked in Italian restaurants for years, and says the Mionetto makes a brilliant Aperol spritz. Basaldu turns to Crémant, a French sparkling wine that's made like Champagne, but without the high price tag. At the start of the pandemic, she would put trout roe atop an omelet alongside a glass of Domaine Allimant-Laugner Crémant d'Alsace Rosé ($18), made from 100% Pinot Noir. "That would be our little treat for the week," she says.

Get to Know Cabernet Sauvignon: Fast Facts and 6 Bottles to Try

This grape is grown in numerous regions worldwide and has just as many sides to its personality. This is what to know. Written by Vicki Denig Updated 05/12/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Laura Sant Cabernet sauvignon is one of the most widely planted grape varieties across the globe and is cultivated in nearly every major wine-producing region. The grape is a cross between cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc and was first created in France in the 1600s. Cabernet sauvignon is known for its thick skins, low yields and resistance to rot, insects and other viticultural pests. No matter where it's grown, cabernet sauvignon creates medium- to full-bodied wines with prominent tannins and abundant natural acidity, both of which contribute to the wine's long aging potential. In cooler climate areas, wines with a base of cabernet sauvignon tend to show earthier flavors of tart red fruit, cedar and menthol, while warmer climate regions produce jammier bottles noted with flavors of black cherries, chocolate and overripe raspberries. From the Left Bank of Bordeaux to sunny Southern Hemisphere regions, get to know this robust varietal through these six bottles. Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre (Colchagua Valley, Chile; $21) Liquor.com / Laura Sant Chile has become a hotbed for affordable and delicious Southern Hemisphere cabernet sauvignon production. Lapostolle Wines was founded in 1994 by French couple Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle and Cyril de Bournet and is one of the country's most exciting and influential producers. Fruit for this wine is cultivated organically in Apalta, one of the Colchagua Valley's top growing sites. Flavors of black currants, overripe cherries and light toast dominate this sophisticated wine. This is truly one of the best-value bottles coming out of Chile at the moment. Château Lacoste Borie Pauillac (Bordeaux, France; $42) Liquor.com / Laura Sant Bordeaux's Left Bank is one of the O.G. regions for growing cabernet sauvignon. (The region's Right Bank is regarded for its merlot-dominant blends.) The Left Bank's cab-heavy blends are known for their gritty tannins, serious backbone and crazy ability to age, as well as their food-friendliness on the table. This "second wine" comes from Pauillac's prestigious Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste and is perfect for either drinking now or laying down for a few years. The wine is medium-bodied and earthy, marked by flavors of red fruit, cedar and cigar box. Corison (Napa Valley, Calif.; $113) Liquor.com / Laura Sant For those looking for a worthwhile splurge, look no further than Cathy Corison's impeccable cabernets. These wines embody all things iconic Napa: texture, body and undeniable fruit-forwardness, without the over-extraction and heavy oak that many neighboring vignerons implement. Corison has been cultivating fruit between Rutherford and St. Helena and vinifying her elegant wines since 1987, and not much has changed in the cellar since her debut. Notes of black cherry, cinnamon and wet earth dominate this juicy and exquisite bottle. Januik (Columbia Valley, Wash.; $32) Liquor.com / Laura Sant Washington State's wine scene has exploded over the last few decades, and it's no surprise why. The state's cool continental climate, coupled with ocean proximity and mountain influence, create an extremely sought-after balance in fruit. The Januiks are no strangers to vinifying top-notch wines in the Columbia Valley. This dense yet harmonious cabernet is loaded with flavors of cassis, blackberry and warm baking spice. Pair it with your favorite grilled meats and veggies. No Fine Print (California; $21) Liquor.com / Laura Sant Forget the stereotypes you've heard about California cabernet. Founded by sommelier Ryan Arnold, Pat Corcoran and Tim Smith, No Fine Print seeks to break down barriers within the wine world by bringing affordable and well-made wine to the masses. Unlike the overextracted bottles of California's past, this bold yet balanced bottle of cab is perfect for lovers of full-bodied reds. Lush notes of red fruit and juicy black cherries are balanced by silky tannins and bright acid. This is California's new wave of wine at its finest. Tenuta San Guido Le Difese (Tuscany; $33) Liquor.com / Laura Sant Ever heard of a super Tuscan? You have Tenuta San Guido to thank for much of the style's renown. These world-class winemakers began planting cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah along the coasts of Tuscany during the mid-20th century, a radical move at the time. Today, super Tuscans are beloved by Italians, Americans and full-bodied red drinkers worldwide. Drinking a bottle of this affordable cab-dominant option is basically like drinking history.

What does maceration mean?

With cold soaks, extended maceration and carbonic maceration all in the mix it can be a confusing term. Chris WilsonAugust 23, 2020 Fermenting red grapes Credit: David Silverman / Getty Images Ask Decanter Highlights 'Macerated' is one of those winemaking words which you're just as likely to see in a tasting note as you are on a back label or technical sheet. As with many winemaking terms it has a number of meanings, and context is king when it comes to explaining just what the winemaker or reviewer means. To start at the beginning - the beginning of the winemaking process that is - maceration often refers to the technique of cold-soaking unfermented grape juice in the crushed skins, seeds and stalks of the grape. This maceration process helps to leach tannins, anthocyanins (responsible for colour) and flavour compounds from the crushed grapes and into the grape juice. While 'stewing' ahead of fermentation the juice takes on various characters which are deemed desirable by the winemaker. Can all colours of wine be macerated? In theory yes. Red wines are the most likely candidates as they benefit most from the colour and tannins extracted from the grape skins, seeds and stalks. White wines, by contrast, are pale in colour and almost exclusive of tannins because the juice has minimal skin contact. Orange wines - white wines fermented on the skins - are macerated during fermentation, with some cold soaked pre-fermentation too. Rosé wines can be made by macerating red wine juice for a few hours/days to add colour and some tannin/red fruit character before 'running off' the pink juice and fermenting. Not all red grapes benefit from maceration, however, so fermentation management is important and there are various techniques the winemaker can use to prevent over-extraction or to reach optimum extraction levels for the desired style. Cap management and extended maceration During red wine fermentation the skins and stalks form a 'cap' at the top of the tank which traps in the heat produced during fermentation, this needs to be managed to prevent the wine beneath heating up too much and taking on 'cooked' characters. Winemakers can 'punch down' the cap to manage the heat, which also puts the skins and stalks back in contact with the wine and increases extraction of colour and phenolics. Another technique is to 'pump over' wine from the bottom of the tank to cool the cap and homogenise the temperature within the tank. This method results in less extraction than punching down and is beneficial for more delicate varieties. Extended maceration refers to the practice of leaving red wine in contact with skins, stalks and seeds after fermentation has finished in order to optimise the flavour, colour and tannin structure of the wine. Maceration ends once the skins, seeds, and stems have been removed from the juice, must or wine. What about carbonic maceration? Carbonic maceration is a form of whole bunch fermentation, when whole bunches of uncrushed grapes are used in fermentation of red wines. It is most commonly associated with the Gamay grape and Beaujolais wines, although not exclusively. See also: What is carbonic maceration? What does 'macerated' mean in a tasting note? It may refer to one of the techniques outlined above, eg 'the wine underwent extended maceration', or it may refer to the more general use of the term and to describe a particular character. For example, 'it's a generous and elegant wine, full of spicy black fruit and macerated cherries. Textbook Rioja.' Can drinks other than wine be macerated? Oh yes. Spirits such as absinthe are made by macerating herbs in a base spirit, while Campari and crème de cassis also use maceration techniques in their production.

Pairing wine with asparagus: What to choose

From Sauvignon Blanc to Chablis, discover the right wine to pair with this seasonal spring ingredient Julie SheppardApril 19, 2020 Asparagus can be paired with a range of wine styles Credit: Oklahoma Academy Country Store on Unsplash Food and wine pairing Highlights Nothing signals the start of spring vegetable season quite like perky stems of fresh green asparagus. In season from April to June, asparagus not only looks good on a plate, it's also packed with health-giving benefits. A great source of vitamins C, K and E, asparagus also contains folic acid and plenty of antioxidants. For wine lovers, of course, the most important factor is how asparagus tastes and what wines to pair with it. Like artichokes, asparagus is notoriously seen as difficult to match. A high level of chlorophyll gives asparagus its fresh green flavour but, working alongside other acidic compounds, it can make wines taste metallic or harsh. However, there are plenty of wines that do work well with asparagus - particularly when you take into account how it's cooked and what other ingredients are served with it. Whether it's steamed, boiled, roasted or grilled, this guide will give you helpful hints for perfect pairings with asparagus. Steamed & boiled asparagus While asparagus is also grown as purple and white varieties (see below), green is the most common type - and one of the easiest ways to prepare it is by steaming or boiling. Whether you steam for two to five minutes or boil for three to four minutes, cooking asparagus with water preserves the purity of its fresh, green flavours. Sauvignon Blanc, which often counts 'asparagus' among its tasting notes, is a great go-to choice for pairing here. Fresh New Zealand Sauvignons, especially young unoaked styles from regions such as Marlborough or Awatere Valley, are a safe bet. Grassy English Bacchus also works, thanks to its complimentary green flavours. Chargrilled & barbecued asparagus If you prefer asparagus spears grilled or cooked on the barbecue (which takes around six to eight minutes), you'll need a wine that can cope with the charred flavours. Try a lightly oaked Italian Pinot Bianco or dry Spanish rosé, which makes a versatile pairing for a whole range of barbecued food. Roasted asparagus It takes around 10 minutes to roast asparagus, giving the vegetable a more intense flavour, maybe with some caramelisation. A dry Spanish rosé would work well again here, but you can also try a light, unoaked red - a fresh New World Pinot Noir from New Zealand or Chile; or a Loire Valley red, such as Saumur-Champigny, which can be served chilled. Asparagus with hollandaise sauce Like most vegetables, asparagus usually appears on a plate alongside other ingredients. Made from egg yolks, butter and lemon juice, hollandaise is a traditional accompaniment and you'll need to find a wine that both cuts through the creaminess of this sauce and stands up to its buttery richness. A crisp, lightly oaked Chardonnay works well - Chablis premier cru or grand cru for example. Chablis would also be a good match if your asparagus is dipped in mayonnaise or slathered in melted butter, again helping to deflect the richness of the sauce. Asparagus is a classic partner for eggs. Credit: Anto Meneghini on Unsplash Asparagus & eggs Asparagus with poached eggs is a classic brunch combo, but this duo also works well in omelettes, quiches and frittatas, as well as with pasta and in salads (see below). When it comes to wine matches you're looking for a style that's going to parry the richness of the egg as well as highlight the flavour of the asparagus. For a decadent brunch pairing - especially if your asparagus and eggs are topped with hollandaise (see above) - try a non-vintage Champagne with crisp citrus acidity and toasty notes. Sparkling New World Chardonnays will do the same job; seek out examples from cool climate regions such as Tasmania. Asparagus & salmon Any number of fresh whites will pair with both asparagus and fish. Albariño from Rías Baixas on Spain's Atlantic coast shows grassy, herbaceous notes to match the asparagus, but usually with riper citrus and stone fruit to complement the salmon. Meanwhile Austrian Grüner Veltliner is a good choice if there's also a creamy sauce on the plate. Asparagus risotto Again, it's the texture of this asparagus dish that needs to be your focus for wine matching. Rich and creamy risottos demand a wine with good, cleansing acidity to refresh the mouth after each bite. If you prefer Italian wine with Italian dishes, opt for a Vermentino, Verdicchio or Pinot Grigio. Or think outside the box by choosing a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc with green pea-pod notes - even better if there are peas in the risotto too. Asparagus & goats' cheese Asparagus flavours tend to be dialled up when you partner it with goats' cheese, calling for some punchy pairing. Herbaceous and mineral Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire Valley really come into their own here - not surprising as the region is also known for its exceptional goats' cheeses, such as Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine. Try Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. Asparagus is delicious in healthy salads. Credit: Carly Jayne on Unsplash Asparagus in salads Asparagus adds fresh crunch to spring salads. The other ingredients obviously factor in finding a perfect wine pairing with salads, but as a general rule think about the dressing, or vinaigrette, as this combination of oil and vinegar or lemon juice can be tricky to match. For light salads with a lemony dressing, try a Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend such as Bordeaux Blanc or Australian Sem-Sav. Punchier dressings made with wine vinegars, balsamic or cider vinegar need a more robust wine: dry rosé works well. White asparagus Unlike its green cousin, white asparagus is grown underground and doesn't contain the chlorophyll that gives green asparagus its distinctive flavour. Instead it tastes earthier and nuttier, with a more rounded, softer flavour profile. It's popular in Central Europe - particularly Germany, where it's served with ham and butter, and celebrated with a series of regional festivals during 'Spargelzeit season' from April to June. Dry German Riesling or Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) both make a great pairing, their freshness contrasting the mellower white asparagus notes. Alternatively choose an aged Semillon from Australia's Hunter Valley, for its complementary mellow buttered toast character.

Great wines to drink at a barbecue

From juicy Zinfandel with burgers to rosé Champagne with salmon and Chardonnay with your BBQ chicken, here is some inspiration on the styles to choose if you're lucky enough to have sunshine and outdoor space this weekend. Harry FawkesMay 7, 2020 Credit: Photo by Evan Wise on Unsplash Food and wine pairing Highlights Summer wines Tastings Home BBQ wine suggestions at a glance: Here are some wine pairings for classic barbecue dishes. For ease of use, we've overlooked the uses of marinades and sauces. Steak - Malbec, Syrah/Shiraz Burgers - Zinfandel, Grenache blends (like Côtes du Rhône), Cabernet Sauvignon Sausages - Tempranillo, Gamay, Pinot Noir BBQ chicken - Warmer climate Chardonnay Pork chops - Valpolicella, Barbera, Riesling, dry rosé Salmon - Rosé Champagne, Pinot Gris, Chilled Pinot Noir Sardines - Albariño, Picpoul de Pinet Halloumi - Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Assyrtiko Veggie Skewers - Chenin Blanc (fresher styles), dry rosé, Gamay There are few things better than a barbecue in the sunshine with a glass of wine, even if the current situation means that you can only have your immediate household present. Choosing good bbq wine can really elevate the occasion, but we've all had bad experiences, too. Forget those days of washing down a burnt burger with warm Chardonnay or 'cooked' red served in a plastic cup, because you have a lot of wine options to suit different tastes and foods. As ever, think about the flavours in the food. If you're going big on the spice, then you could lean towards juicier reds or whites with a touch of sweetness, such as off-dry Riesling, for example. Pinot Gris from Alsace, for example, might work better if your salmon has Southeast Asia-inspired flavours, while sausages with lots of herbs, such as fennel or sage, could be fun with a Langhe Nebbiolo. All-rounder BBQ wines Of course, it's unlikely that you're going to purchase 10 types of wine and impose strict pairing regulations on the occasion. There are some good all-rounder wines that tick many of the boxes needed for a great barbecue. These include: Malbec Pinot Noir Gamay Dry Rosé Riesling Champagne and other traditional method sparkling wines Top tips for serving If it's above 20°C, 68°F, outside then it's perfectly acceptable to chill your red wines. Even the most powerful red wines are best at 'room temperature', which is no more than 18°C, or around 65°F. Also, and this almost goes without saying these days, but avoid plastic cups if possible. First published in August 2016. Most recently updated in May 2020.

Understanding Wind, an Underappreciated Part of Wine

Most winds that sweep through the world's vineyards bring both positive and negative results for winegrowers, often depending on the time of the season in which they blow. Whatever happens, you often can taste "the wind" in your glass. Whether a gentle breeze or howling tempest, wind is generally an underappreciated part of a vineyard's terroir. Unlike soil, sun and location, you can't see wind. Yet, winds are very important to the quality and quantity of the wine. In the U.S., we seldom give names to winds, but Europeans and Asians have honored them with almost human characteristics. Perhaps most famous, the Mistral powers down through the vineyards of the Rhône Valley, then fans out into parts of Provence and Languedoc. The Sirocco is the fierce, often sand-filled wind that blows off the Sahara Desert and flies north through the island vineyards of the Mediterranean. "The old people say, 'The Mistral can destroy grapes, but overall, it saves grapes,'" says Victor Coulon, whose family owns Domaine de Beaurenard in Châteauneuf-du-Pape just outside of Avignon. Does Terroir Matter? That duality can be observed in vineyards around the world. Winds can cause the most damage in spring, do the most good in the weeks before harvest and have mixed results during summer. In the springtime, when tender shoots and buds can be killed by frost, air movement through the vines can ward off freezing for a few degrees. For one recent vintage, grape growers at Cloudy Bay and other Marlborough producers brought in a fleet of helicopters to hover over the vines in the cold, early dawn hours to circulate air. In Argentina, the Zonda wind blows in from the Pacific Ocean and down over the Andes Mountains. "When Zonda blows in Mendoza, it produces a quick increase of the temperature and drops the humidity to almost zero," says Franco Bastias, chief agronomist for Domaine Bousquet. It helps to hold back freezing temperatures that creep north from Patagonia. Wind machines, like this one in British Columbia, Canada, help to protect a vineyard from frost damage./Getty But spring winds can also do a lot of damage. On the Sicilian island of Pantelleria, winds from Africa during the late spring often influence crop size. "Pantelleria is only 38 nautical miles from Africa," says Antonio Rallo, whose family owns Donnafugata. "Between March and May, the wind can be insidious. The more intense, the less will be the quantity of the shoots whose flowers will grow into berries, and the fewer clusters of berries, the scarcer the harvest will be." The scenario flips in summer, when humidity in most vineyards rises. Rainstorms are common. "Wind and sun are nature's antibiotics, and wind dries things out more quickly after a rain," says Ed Boyce, co-owner/winemaker at Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland. "Downy mildew, for instance, needs about six hours of wetness to establish itself, so a nice breeze after a storm can significantly reduce the incidence of disease." In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Coulon says that the strong Mistral "blows away the clouds, helping our region be so sunny. The vines love it." Exploring California's Santa Lucia Highlands In California's Santa Lucia Highlands, cooling winds are as regular as clockwork. They begin around noon each day, from Monterey Bay and up the Salinas River Valley. "Two things are happening during berry ripening as a result of photosynthesis," says Steve McIntyre, owner of McIntyre Vineyards and the Monterey Pacific vineyard management company. "The first is accumulation of sugar. The higher and longer the temperature, the faster the sugar content rises in the berry. Everything else—flavor, aroma and structural precursors—is only time dependent, so higher temperatures have no impact on accumulation. "The wind slows the process of sugar accumulation, allowing more time for all of the other goodies to accumulate in the berry, [and is] one of the reasons our growing season is so long." In the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County, Matt Dees deals with strong coastal winds up to 50 miles per hour in the vineyard from which he makes The Hilt wines. "Clusters are smaller," says Dees. "Skins are thicker, and the resulting wines are defined by concentration of fruit, high acidity and a powerful tannic structure, producing some of our finer wines, but often in smaller quantities." The vineyards in the edges of Israel's Negev Desert also need relief from the heat. "The westerly winds off the Mediterranean during summer serve to cool the vineyards near the end of the day," says Eran Goldwasser, winemaker at Yatir Winery. Explore Sonoma's Newest Appellation, the Petaluma Gap One of California's newest appellations, the Petaluma Gap, became an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 2017. It's partly defined by its "wind gap" that channels cold air from the Pacific Ocean into the interior of Sonoma and Marin counties. "Wind dries things out from the cooling fog, and we need that window of time," says Ria D'Aversa, farming manager for McEvoy Ranch. It's especially important to an organic operation like McEvoy, where synthetic sprays can't be used to kill fungus. Winegrowers on the East Coast worry about another type of harvest wind: hurricanes that sweep up the Eastern seaboard. Anthony Vietri, owner/winemaker at Va La Vineyards in Pennsylvania, has made wine through a few hurricanes, but one that struck just before harvest sticks out in his mind. "That one knocked down an entire end row loaded with Pinot Grigio," says Vietri. "We had to reset new posts with the trellises still burdened down by vines full of fruit. Not fun."

ON THE TABLE LONG GONE IS THE PERFECT PAIRING

Our love of travel has reshaped many of our notions around food and wine pairings. As global experiences make their way into dishes across the country, and as winemakers continue to evolve our notions of Chardonnay's personalities, it's an exciting time to be eating and drinking. "I don't really like rules anymore because we've mashed up cultures and cuisines all into one menu nowadays," says Master Sommelier Michael Jordan. Styles of Chardonnay used to be put on a spectrum: at one end were full, rich and buttery styles, while lean, crisp, mineral Chardonnays landed at the other. As winemakers continue to evolve their winemaking, however — whether through closer attention to terroir, new vinification techniques, or an appreciation for Chardonnays from elsewhere in the world — thinking of styles as points on a compass rather than a single line better fits into the modern view. I don't really like rules anymore because we've mashed up cultures and cuisines all into one menu nowadays, SAYS MASTER SOMMELIER MICHAEL JORDAN Break the Rules "When we throw all the rules out the window, we want to try all kinds of different things with different dishes because it's amazing what can really work," says Master Sommelier Michael Jordan. When thinking about culinary and cultural mashups on many modern menus - Korean tacos, anyone? - traditional pairings seem rather staid. With the proliferation of Chardonnay styles, now's the time to play with your food. As a general rule of thumb, Jordan considers three areas when planning a pairing: first, flavors and aromas; second, a wine's structure; and, finally, texture. Attention to the latter two, especially, can lead to successful, unexpected matches. "The compounds, the building blocks typical in any wine, would be alcohol, acid, sugar - or lack of sugar - and tannin," he explains. "Well, we don't really have tannin in Chardonnay, so we're talking about the first three. With white wines, acid is extremely important; pairing acidity and alcohol levels with dishes is really the thing that makes those magical pairings." Hand-in-hand with structure, "Texture's a big deal in the enjoyment of the wine," says Jordan. "A big powerhouse Chardonnay — wow, it has really rich texture and much more viscosity, mouthfeel, weight and intensity of flavor." However, he notes, "in your crisper, more high acid styles, you have intensity, but it's a totally different kind of intensity. The texture is much leaner, it's more focused, it can almost be austere." With those elements in mind, Jordan cites barbecued foods and powerhouse oak-aged Chardonnays as one of his favorite cool pairings. "One of my favorite dishes is grilled shrimp with barbecue sauce, served with a Chardonnay that has oak aging and the flavors of oak," he says. "It will give you these amazing flavors of vanilla, caramel, and baking spices, and aromas of things like crème brûlée. Vanilla, when you pair it, or something like it, with barbecue shrimp — whoa. That oaked Chardonnay is fantastic with that." He says other barbecued or roasted proteins - pork, beef, or chicken, for example - also match with these Chardonnays. A filet Oscar with crab on top of the steak on top of béarnaise - Chardonnay is money with that. It is way better than a red wine. THOMAS PRICE, MASTER SOMMELIER Master Sommelier Thomas Price loves the unexpected pairing of red meat with Chardonnay. Powerhouse styles in particular can hold their own against an unctuous, beef-centric dish. "A filet Oscar, with crab on top of the steak on top of béarnaise — Chardonnay, such as Stonestreet Upper Barn Chardonnay, is money with that," says Price. "It is way better than a red wine." Sometimes unexpected pairings can be a just left-of-center instead of a full 180-degree contrast. Instead of Riesling or Gewurztraminer, two popular matches with spicy foods, Price likes a fruit-driven Chardonnay with a milder Japanese or Indian curry. With so such varied styles of cuisine, and so many more dining options today, it's the perfect time to get creative with wine and food. "That's how you find the delicious pairings," says Jordan. "You try them, taste them, to see what works really well together. When you add flavors and the structure into the equation — wow, anything is possible today. It's quite fun, and it's more than that — it's delicious." WORTH NOTING STONESTREET UPPER BARN CHARDONNAY BREWER-CLIFTON STA. RITA HILLS COPAIN LES VOISINS LA CREMA SONOMA COAST CAPENSIS SOUTH AFRICA Classic Pairings Classics remain timeless for a reason: they're always appealing and prove themselves time after time. However, considering what makes an ideal pairing, beyond just matching (or contrasting) flavors, can bring excitement to a meal. "Chardonnay is well-poised to be something of a chameleon, as far as its affinities with food," says Greg Brewer, winemaker for Brewer-Clifton and diatom. "In Sta. Rita Hills, the wines carry a kind of lemon-lime, salt, margarita-esque tendency — so you're reflecting on the role of that lemon, lime, and salt with food. It lifts, it cleanses, and elevates. Chardonnay becomes this quiet support system to the food." Chardonnay is well-poised to be something of a chameleon as far as its affinities with food. GREG BREWER, WINEMAKER, BREWER-CLIFTON & DIATOM Chardonnay as an Aperitif Beyond the dinner plate, Chardonnay is well-positioned to serve as an aperitif. Refined fruit-driven styles, like the Copain Les Voisins, fulfill this particular niche in the dining experience. According to Master Sommelier Thomas Price, higher-acid styles work particularly well to sharpen up your palate before dinner. In addition, their mouth-watering qualities can tempt hunger, prepping both the mind and the body for the meal. "A lot of people have a glass of Chardonnay and then they move into Cabernet with their dinner," he says. Chardonnay as an aperitif also speaks to a rising awareness of well-being in today's society. Everyone's more focused on their health; where somebody used to drink a couple of martinis before dinner, a glass of Chardonnay is a low[er] alcohol and delicious option. THOMAS PRICE, MASTER SOMMELIER

Wine Glass Stems & Why Height Matters

When shopping for stemware, there is no shortage of options. But while shape and dimension are the most common considerations, one oft-overlooked aspect of wine glasses is their height. Just as the width and curve of the glass' bowl will impact your drinking experience, so, too, can the stem size and height of the wine glass. In this article, we'll focus on stems exclusively and discuss how their design affects the wine you enjoy! Why Do Wine Glasses Have Stems? The standard vessel for drinking wine has improved significantly since the leather cups (called "piggins") we used in the Middle Ages. In fact, today's glassware is likely seven times larger than those used in the 1700s—equating a single glass by today's standards to 14 servings worth of alcohol! "The wine glasses as we know today were first made in the 17th century to the late 18th century", David Masifon reports. And while the stem-and-bowl design of 21st century glassware is more sophisticated, it serves the same essential functions. Aside from decoration, there are two reasons that wine glasses have stems: Stems allow for swirling. Proper swirling, that is, with two fingers on the foot guiding the glass in tight, counterclockwise circles on a flat, sturdy surface. The act of swirling agitates the wine, which heightens both flavor expression and aroma. Stems help maintain temperature. The proximity of your hand to the glass can generate enough body heat to warm its contents—especially on a hot summer day or in contrast with a cold blast of AC. This is why we always hold wine glasses by the stem, not the bowl. Although less of a concern with reds, whites and sparkling wines can be quite temperature-sensitive, and will be much more enjoyable if kept closest to their optimal serving temperature. A Note on Stemless Glassware Wine glass design continues to evolve in various ways. One recent development is the invention of the stemless wine glass, designed largely for convenience and ease-of-use. Stemmed glasses are notoriously top-heavy, and are extremely easy to tip over. Stemless wine glasses, on the other hand, are easier to handle. They're also the more economical choice, as they can be used to serve spirits and other refreshments. We offer more insights on the stemmed vs. stemless glass debate in this post. What's an Average Wine Glass Height? The average wine glass is 6-10 inches tall, with some variation for specialty glasses. Red wine glasses are often just slightly taller than white wine glasses. Depending on the manufacturer, they often have larger bowls to concentrate the wines' aroma. Most red wine glasses stand around 8 inches tall. White wine glasses tend to be a bit shorter, and feature slightly smaller bowls. Most white wine glasses are 6-7 inches tall Short-stemmed glasses, like snifters or port glasses, are typically 5-6 inches tall. Why Use Short vs. Long-Stemmed Wine Glasses? Short-stemmed glasses offer a few benefits over long-stemmed glasses: More stability. It's more difficult to knock over a short-stemmed glass. The center of gravity is lower, making them less prone to tipping, and their height makes it easier to clear while gesticulating or passing dishes over a shared meal. This is especially true when enjoying a dessert wine at the end of a few glasses/courses! Easier to hold. Drinkers with dexterity issues may feel more secure with a short-stemmed glass. Allow for warmth. When tasting certain spirits like aged brandy, you may actually want your hand to warm the glass slightly. Easier to care for. Long-stemmed glasses don't always fit easily into the dishwasher (if they even fit at all!) And the longer and thinner the stem, the more fragile the glass. Washing, drying and storing glassware is a more delicate task with long-stemmed bowls. On the other hand, there are many reasons why you might prefer wine glasses with long or extra-long stems. After all, the stem is the standard! Easier swirling. Swirling is not impossible with stemless or short-stemmed glassware, but it sure is difficult. Generally speaking, the longer the stem of a glass is, the easier it is to swirl. Greater depth. Especially with reds, the ability to accurately swirl the glass' contents can enormously impact the quality and characteristics of the wine. You won't get the same aromas, breath or level of complexity without a stem to conduct the tasting. Less smudging. Purists abhor the thought of touching or holding the bowl of the glass while drinking, as this may produce fingerprints and smudges. The stem height of your average wine glass prevents the need for any unwanted contact—from the sommelier, server or consumer. Shop for Glassware with Wine Enthusiast Whether you're looking for traditional or novelty-style glasses, Wine Enthusiast has the perfect selection to meet your needs. Take a look around our site and don't hesitate to reach out with any questions you may have!

What is grafting, and why is it important in the vineyard?

Why do most winegrowers in the world need to graft their vines, and how do they do it? Sylvia WuOctober 8, 2020 Credit: Sheryl Watson / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Highlights The technique Grafting is a technique that joins the tissues of two plants together so they continue to grow as one plant. In viticulture this technique allows grape vines to express the desirable varietal characteristics of the scion (upper part of the joined plant) in the fruits, while developing or keeping the root system of the rootstock (lower part of the joined plant). As a method to propagate vines, grafting has been used since Ancient Roman times, although it became vitally important for the majority of wine growing regions in the world at the end of the 19th century, resulting in the majority of the vineyards we see today being planted with grafted vines. The phylloxera cure In the 1860s, when new botanicals were being brought from the New World to Europe, a tiny louse, later named as phylloxera, hitchhiked to Europe in live vines from America. Since its arrival, the pest ravaged all of Europe and almost wiped out plantings of Vitis vinifera, the wine species of the genus Vitis, in this part of the world and beyond. A sign in Barossa Valley in 2012. See also: What is phylloxera in the vineyard? After various failed attempts to eradicate the phylloxera, scientists discovered that the domestic vines from America are naturally resistant to the insect, which feeds on the roots. In 1881, the International Phylloxera Congress held in Bordeaux defined grafting as the most effective and economical solution to the vineyard pandemic. Gustave Foëx, Director of École Nationale d'Agriculture de Montpellier, was among the first scientists to conduct tests on grafting cuttings of European Vitis Vinifera onto the rootstocks of American species of vines. Initially, only larger growers were willing to and were capable of adopting these measures. In 1882, Foëx created a small booklet giving clear instructions for small vine-growers, and thus fueled the widespread adoption of American rootstocks in Europe. However, there were still some issues. The American rootstocks widely adopted in France were proven to be less tolerant to chalk and some growers had to move their vineyards to areas with less lime content. These foreign vitis species also brought in a fungal disease called downy mildew, which attacks the leaves of the grape vine. Fortunately, solutions such as the 'Bordeaux mixture (copper sulphate and slaked lime)' were brought quickly to market as a way to control this. The choice of rootstocks With more advanced research into American Vitis species, scientists have now developed a range of rootstocks that are not only resistant to various pests in the soil but also have better tolerance to environmental conditions including lime content, pH and moisture levels. The different levels of vigor in rootstocks also became an essential factor for growers to control the yields. The rootstocks used in most vineyards nowadays are hybrids of three species. The Vitis rupestris species are highly vigorous and have better resistance to lime content in the soil. Vitis riparia are less resistant to lime but is gives lower vigor. Vitis berlandieri is another vigorous species with great lime resistance and also good resistance to drought. See also: Do rootstocks affect the flavour of wines? Grafting in modern vineyards In nurseries, with an aim to produce phylloxera-resistant seedlings, growers conduct 'bench grafting' to join dormant cuttings of European species (scion) and American species (rootstock) together. The work usually takes place in winter. The 'whip and tongue' method is the most common bench grafting method, which involves exposing the cambium layers of both cuttings and joining them closely together. Machines are now commonly used in nurseries to make omega-shaped (Ω) cuts on the scion and the rootstock, before fitting them together. The grafted vines are then kept in a warm and moist environment for weeks so the callus can join the two cuttings together. Then the vine is planted into potted soil to develop into a seedling. Vine Graft, Per Karlsson Growers can also conduct grafting to an existing vine plant. This is a process known as 'field budding / grafting'. 'T-budding' and 'chip budding' are among the most common methods, which involves making a cut to the rootstock and slotting in the bud of the scion. Field grafting allows producers to alter the grape variety expression of the existing vines, which already have a developed root system, without uprooting and replanting the vines. This can be an economical way of changing a whole vineyard rather than re planting.

1882 CHARDONNAY COMES TO AMERICA

Chardonnay first made its way into the United States from France in the 1880s. Three cuttings were rooted in Livermore, California, two of which were co-planted to form what is now known as the Wente clone. The third clone, which we now call the Mount Eden clone, was also planted in Santa Cruz.

How to Order Wine: The Most Important Terms to Use These words will help guarantee happiness with your bottle. Written by Nikki Goddard Published 07/10/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Laura Sant If you've ever been intimidated by the prospect of ordering wine in a restaurant or wine bar or requesting a recommendation in a bottle shop, know that you're in good company. Anyone who has ever worked in those settings will tell you that the majority of their customers are unable or afraid to describe the type of wine they desire and often make an embarrassed claim of not knowing how to talk about wine, sometimes even apologizing for it. Although very few of us would ever apologize to our doctor for not having been trained in medicine, many people who have had no wine education somehow feel their lack of knowledge is something to be ashamed of. There is truly no reason to worry about this. Any wine professional should know how to ask the right questions to arrive at the perfect recommendation and certainly should never say anything to make you feel bad about your level of expertise or lack thereof. But to increase the likelihood of satisfaction, you might find it helpful to learn some basic terms for communicating your preferences. We suggest starting small by identifying a handful of words that describe the wines you've enjoyed in the past. These are some of the most important words to use when ordering wine. Armed with these, you can effortlessly request a "full-bodied, earthy and tannic red," an "off-dry aromatic white with high acidity," or whatever else you may desire. Dry, Off-Dry or Sweet This is an important place to start, because many people have heard the term "dry" and think they're "supposed" to use it to describe a good wine, but most are unfamiliar with what the word actually means in a wine context. Simply put, a dry wine is a wine that is not sweet and should not be confused with a tannic wine, which can make your mouth feel dry (see below). On almost any given wine list, at least 90% of the (nondessert) wines are dry, so this word actually communicates very little about what you like. It's much more useful to share a preference for wines that are not dry, if you have one: either off-dry wines that are just lightly sweet or fully sweet wines. Tannic or Smooth As mentioned above, many people use the word "dry" when they actually mean "tannic." That's because tannin, the astringent compound found in red wine, can actually make your mouth feel quite dry. If you've ever over-steeped a pot of black tea (which also contains tannin), you'll recognize that sensation easily. Tannins give red wine body and structure and tend to be more aggressive in young wines; they mellow out with age. Some grape varieties are naturally predisposed to high tannin levels. If that's your thing, be sure to mention it. If you prefer to avoid tannic wines, the word you'll want to use is "smooth." Acidity Do you like wines that make your mouth water and pucker? If so, ask for a high-acidity wine. If, on the other hand, you find that sensation unpleasant, low acidity is the way to go. Acidity works on a spectrum, of course, and you may find yourself somewhere in between. Note that if a wine has too little acidity, it might taste flat, flabby or overly alcoholic. If it has too much, it can be overwhelmingly tart. Body Some people prefer their wines to be light, lively and airy, while others want to drink something quite a bit more substantial; many people find their sweet spot lies between the two. Think of light-bodied wines like water, medium-bodied wines like skim milk, and full-bodied wines like whole milk or cream. Alcohol goes hand-in-hand with body, so if you seek lower-alcohol wines, light-bodied selections are the way to go. Oaky Fermenting or aging wines in new oak (barrels that have not been previously used) will give them a woody profile accompanied by a range of characteristics from coconut to vanilla to Christmas spice. If you like those flavors, you'll want to mention that you prefer an oaky wine; if you prefer to taste the purity of the fruit, you might ask to avoid wines aged in new oak. Once a barrel has been used two or three times, it's considered to be neutral and will no longer impart aromas or flavors to the wine, but it will contribute a pleasing texture and help to soften the tannins in red wines. Buttery Buttery flavors in wine (most notably, some domestic chardonnays) come from a process called malolactic fermentation, in which the tangy malic acid in the wine (think green apples) is converted to softer, gentler lactic acid (think yogurt, cheese or, well, butter). No need to get all scientific on this one; the word "buttery" works just fine. Wherever you land on the butter preference spectrum, this is an especially important term when you're ordering chardonnay—there's no shortage of great options either way. Fruit-Forward, Earthy, Funky or Floral If you enjoy wines that primarily display flavors of fruit, you'll want to request a wine that's fruit-forward. These tend to be bright, approachable and easy to drink. The fruit flavors themselves vary with each grape variety—white wines can be redolent of tropical fruits, citrus or stone fruit, while reds might have characteristics like cherries, berries or plums. Earthy wines, on the other hand, show more savory qualities, like dried herbs, leather, tobacco or tar, or even dirt or barnyard. If you're not afraid to get really earthy, you might request a wine that is "funky" —a descriptor often applied to natural wines. If you prefer to keep things delicate and pretty, wines with floral aromatics like rose, violet or orange blossom can be remarkably appealing. Price Range This is where ordering wine can sometimes get awkward, especially if you're dining with someone you don't know well. If you don't want to indicate it out loud, once you've determined the price you're comfortable paying, simply point to the price of a wine on the list and casually mention to your server that you'd like something along those lines. They'll get the hint. Specific Grape Varieties or Regions If there's a region or grape variety that you know you love, sharing this with your sommelier can be one of the best ways to get a great selection. A simple statement like "I love malbec from Argentina" or "sauvignon blanc is my favorite grape" communicates an enormous amount of information about your preferences, especially if you're not yet ready to articulate the specific qualities of the wines you enjoy. Knowing that you like sauvignon blanc lets your server infer that you prefer light-bodied, high-acidity white wines with bright citrus and herbal flavors, so they can guide you toward something new and interesting to try—for instance, an Austrian grüner veltliner.

How to Order Wine: The Most Important Terms to Use

What Do 'Legs' Mean in Wine?

If you swirl wine in a glass and then set it down for a few seconds, you'll see a weird thing happen. It defies gravity. First, a ridge of liquid rises up the sides of the glass, and then the liquid drips back down in little rivulets that form a sort of necklace around the inside. These are called wine "legs," or "tears." They don't always need a swirl to get started, either. The simple act of pouring a full-bodied wine or spirit into a glass can also get them going. So, what are the legs on a wine glass, exactly? Do they indicate anything about the taste or quality of the wine? What causes wine legs? Scientists have tried to answer this question for centuries. In 1855, Scottish physicist James Thomson was the first to correctly describe the phenomenon, presumably based on years of scrutinizing his after-dinner Port glass. An expert in fluid dynamics, Thomson's qualitative study of the behavior of water and alcohol in glasses keyed on the role of surface tension and how it varies between the two liquids, causing movements. The next big step didn't occur until 1982, when Australia-born geophysicist Herbert Huppert created an equation that models the behavior of "shock waves" in solutions, like in wine legs. He poured liquids down a slope and measured their speed and height to formulate a model similar to those describing traffic flow. What Does 'Structure' Mean in Wine? One of today's leading experts is Andrea Bertozzi, professor of mathematics at UCLA. "The story of tears of wine is an old story about a balance between surface stress and gravity," she says. This year, she and her team published a paper, A Theory for Undercompressive Shocks in Tears of Wine. Bertozzi compares the rising ring on a wine glass to the phenomenon of rainwater that rises up the windshield of a moving car, where wind creates a surface stress. In a glass, the instantaneous evaporation of alcohol around the edge of the liquid leads to lower alcohol in that region compared to the rest of the glass. This creates a difference in surface tension that pulls the liquid up the side of the glass in a ridge that Bertozzi calls a shock wave. "It's counterintuitive," she says, "Alcohol as a chemical can change the surface tension of a liquid quite a lot. The stress is like a wind, pushing it from regions of lower surface tension to higher surface tension which means it's going to be driving the flow up." The paper calls the upward flow a reverse undercompressive shock known to be unstable, according to a synopsis on the Physical Review Fluids website, where their study is published. So, any inconsistencies in the shock wave grow into drops that eventually fall as legs. What do wine legs tell you about the wine? The prominence of legs in a glass generally indicates higher alcohol content, and thus a richer texture and fuller body. That's why they're especially prominent in fortified wines and high-proof spirits. It's also known that legs are diminished by chilling a beverage or diluting it with ice. But don't let anyone tell you that wine legs indicate wine quality. So far, research has made no such connection, so we'll have to keep tasting wine ourselves to make that judgment.

Champagne's Rule-Breaking Winemakers Have a Sweet Secret

In France, everything that goes into a wine is considered and accounted for. Quality and authentic expression of terroir are often believed to exist only if every ingredient, which includes grapes, bacteria, lactic acids and yeast, are reviewed, approved and documented by the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine. The organization was founded by Baron Pierre Le Roy Boiseaumarié in 1935, and the precursor to the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) wine classification system. But many say that the very rigor that helped create some of the world's most lauded wines is also threatening its supremacy. The issue has come to a head in the Champagne region recently, when the AOC discovered through an Instagram post that organically farmed, biodynamic eighth-generation producer Lelarge-Pugeot was using honey in the dosage of one of its Champagnes, the Bises. "We were not advertising the fact that we were using honey, and we hoped that we would escape notice because there's nothing explicit in the rules that say you cannot use it," says Clémence Lelarge-Pugeot, the export manager at her family's Champagne house. "It just says that the expedition liqueur may only contain sucrose or grape must, and honey is technically sucrose." It uses honey only in the Bises line, which is made from the same base wine that goes into Lelarge-Pugeot's classic Blanc de Blancs, a blend of Chardonnay parcels grown on the estate's sandy loam soil. Vineyards and cellar of Lelarge-Pugeot / Photo courtesy Lelarge-Pugeot Honey and sugar are both made up of a combination of glucose and fructose. In sugar, they're bound together to form sucrose, which comes in the form of sugar beets or sugarcane. With honey, fructose and glucose are largely independent from each other. Lelarge-Pugeot's family turned to honey as a more honest and authentic evocation of their terroir, as well as a more responsible ecological choice. "We are beekeepers," says Lelarge-Pugeot. "This honey comes from our land. It's essential to us that we make our footprint as small as possible in every way, and it is the product of bees that gather nectar from our land. The only organic source we could find for sugar is from halfway across the world." While AOC agents were sympathetic, a strict interpretation of the rule was enforced. As of March, the last pallet of wine that used honey in the dosage shipped to California and New York. In the meantime, Lelarge-Pugeot has submitted an application for permission to use honey. She says the process will take "at least a year," but that other producers are excited. Terroir and Honey: Where Wine and Bees Meet "We believe that being able to have the option to use local honey is the right thing to do philosophically and ecologically," says Lelarge-Pugeot. The label's U.S. importer, Jennifer Green of Super Glou, is also hopeful. "How would it be possible to get a more authentic taste of Champagne's terroir than by using local honey?" says Green. She says the difference in taste is subtle, but the honey adds a roundness to the texture. In Oregon, where a more freewheeling approach to viniculture exists, winemakers like Joe Wright of the Willamette Valley's Left Coast are super sweet on honey. Left Coast's Queen Bee Bubbly / Photo courtesy Left Coast "We're beekeepers, grape growers and preservationists," says Wright. "About 20% of our 500 acres is devoted to oak tree preservation. By the end of August, we have hundreds of gallons of honey, and while we sell a lot of it in the tasting room, it made perfect sense to us to use this product, which is from our land, to make sparkling wine." Left Coast's Queen Bee Bubbly is made from Pinot Noir grapes, with honey added to jumpstart the second fermentation. "It's riper and rounder, and gives you a real sense of what our estate smells like," says Wright. "Jasmine, dry summer grass, honey, peaches." At its best, terroir holds many things. It's a place for elegance, sophistication and subtlety, but it's also a showcase for local flavor and authenticity.

What Is Alcoholic Fermentation?

In a nutshell, it's how grapes and grains become booze. Written by Vicki Denig Published 11/10/20 Pin Share Email Fermenting grains to become beer.Image: Getty Images / Urbancow Whether wine, beer or spirits are more your jam, these boozy beverages have one thing in common: All of them contain alcohol, which means that they all have undergone the process of fermentation. Fermentation is a pretty commonly used term in the alcohol industry, and although the overarching concept is relatively simple to grasp, many imbibers aren't fully aware of the intricacies of this essential booze-creating process. Alcoholic fermentation, also referred to as ethanol fermentation, is a biological process by which sugar is converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Yeasts are responsible for this process, and oxygen is not necessary, which means that alcoholic fermentation is an anaerobic process. Byproducts of the fermentation process include heat, carbon dioxide, water and alcohol. In this case, we're focusing on the latter. Humans have been using the process of ethanol fermentation for millennia. The ancient Greeks were known for their mead production, which was produced by fermenting honey and water. In the meantime, though, honey has taken a back seat to other foodstuffs, most commonly grains (for beer and spirits) and grapes (for wine). Additional base products include other fruits, such as berries, apples and so on, rice (for sake) and beyond. Fermenting grapes to make wine. Getty Images / Michael Major The Difference Between Native Yeasts and Cultivated Yeasts This is a hot topic among booze creators, particularly within the natural wine community. Native yeasts (also known as wild yeasts or ambient yeasts) are naturally present on fruit skins and in cellars. When a booze producer chooses to let their juice ferment with native yeasts, this means that they're simply relying on the naturally occurring yeasts found on the raw materials and in the cellar where the fermentation is taking place. When fermentation is done naturally, it tends to take much longer, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. When a producer chooses to use cultivated yeasts, this means that a specific strain of yeast is sought out, purchased and added to the raw materials to kick-start fermentation. Yeasts (as with seasonings) come in all different flavors and makeups. Purists will argue that using cultivated yeasts takes away from the authenticity of a raw material, though the fermentation process will generally take much less time and the result is often more predictable and consistent. For these reasons, this is usually the route taken by those producing alcohol in large quantities. The Difference Between Fermentation and Distillation Alcoholic fermentation is the process of using yeasts to convert sugars into alcohol. Distillation is a process used to higher-ABV beverages from already-fermented base products. (For example, the distillation of beer wort creates whiskey, while the distillation of wine produces brandy.) All alcoholic beverages undergo fermentation, thought not all fermented beverages are distilled. Fermenting grains that will eventually become spirits. Getty Images / mapodile Other Types of Fermentation Fermentation refers to any process in which microorganisms (i.e., bacteria and/or yeast) produce a desirable change in a food. In the context of food and drinks, you've probably heard of a few other types of fermentation aside from alcoholic and ethanol, including acetic acid fermentation and lacto-fermentation. Acetic acid fermentation is the type of fermentation that produces kombucha, kefir and ginger beer. It uses water, fruit and sugar, and generally involves a starter culture such as a SCOBY (symbiotic combination of bacteria and yeast). Lacto-fermentation uses lactic-acid-producing bacteria, primarily from the lactobacillus genus, to break down the sugars in food to create lactic acid, carbon dioxide and sometimes alcohol. The process generally involves combining water, salt and sugar (typically in the form of a vegetable or fruit) in an anaerobic environment. It's how sauerkraut, kimchi and traditional dill pickles are made. In recent years, more adventurous bartenders have begun experimenting with this type of fermentation to produce complexly flavored ingredients (and brine) to use in their cocktails.

The Renegade Winemakers Creating Unusual Bottles with Cult Appeal

In the minds of many drinkers, winemaking is a noble pursuit, rich with pastoral elegance and sprawling estates. But garagistes want nothing to do with that. These winemakers specialize in no-pretense, limited-run bottlings. They're named for the places where much of their juice gets made. Garages. Garagistes are not uniquely, or even originally, American. Still, their philosophy is particularly amenable to the New World, where winemakers are unencumbered by centuries of tradition and rule-breaking gets romanticized in the retelling. The movement began in mid-1990s Bordeaux. A regional band of winemakers had grown tired of how the industry worked in France. Stringent rules and style guidelines that stretched back centuries stymied their creative impulses. Eventually, these winemakers were forced out of regulation-upholding chateaus and left to peddle their products out of unmarked garages and dilapidated warehouses. But something happened on the way to that place. Established wineries used the term "garagiste" derisively, but these independent producers wore the label as a badge of honor. They churned out wine with bold, brash flavors. You could taste their passion in the glass. Combined with limited output, it formed a recipe for cultish desire. William Allen of Two Shepherds / Photo by Tom Lake "Having a very small production often means a higher level of quality control," says Scott Sampler, who runs his garagiste operation, the Central Coast Group Project, out of an industrial park in Buellton, California. "If you're sourcing fruit, you can be highly selective, and you can take more risks. And if you're ambitious and talented, you can travel all over and you can find obscure vineyards that big winemakers would never use." By the late 2000s, that renegade ethos had gained traction in the U.S. Much like the food truck craze that ignited around the same time, it was pioneered by independent artisans without the sizable investments needed for more traditional brick-and-mortar operations. Garagiste Wine Festival / Photo by Tom Lake In 2011, the Garagiste Wine Festival debuted in Paso Robles, California. The festival now holds annual events in Sonoma, Los Angeles and Solvang. All styles and production methods are welcome, as organizers define garagistes as anyone that produces less than 1,500 cases a year. By comparison, a solid mid-sized winery like Gundlach Bundschu might put out 50,000 cases annually. Nevertheless, certain touchstones unite the garagiste community. Garagiste Festival / Photo by Laura Simak "I often associate garagiste[s] with méthode ancestrale—skin-on white wines, stuff that hasn't been filtered, minimal sulfur," says Joel Caruso, a California-based sommelier. "You're expecting an inconsistent product, but that's part of the charm. I think it's a really honest way to approach the market. Without any sort of any business plan model, it frees the winemaker up to be more creative and to follow their muse." Dieter Cronje embodies this notion. At his "day job" at Presqu'ile Winery in Santa Maria, California, he specializes in polished, cool-climate Pinot Noir. But as a part-time garagiste at Riding Monkey Wines, in Orcutt, California, he makes a skin-fermented Chenin Blanc that's out of the ordinary. Full of acid and phenolic texture, it's as fun to drink as it is categorically vexing. Many garagistes' creations are meant to be consumed immediately, giving these vins de soif ample allure during the current coronavirus pandemic. From the cobblestoned streets of the Red Hook section of Brooklyn, New York, to the converted work lofts of SoDo area of Seattle, these bottlings are more relevant than ever. Because garagistes flourish within the confines of concrete grids rather than along sloping hills, they're particularly well-positioned for curbside pickups. Garagiste Festival / Photo by Tom Lake "My clientele doesn't care if it's made on a pastoral vineyard or if it's made in a tiny shoebox warehouse," says Sampler. He debuted a line of unconventional patio pounders recently that included a carbonic white, a skin-contact blush and a 451-day, skin-on Syrah that never saw a barrel. "They're into the wine, they're not coming for the scenery." Adventurousness offers its own brand of romance, and scores of modern drinkers are lining up for a view. For a community that's made its mark in defiance of time-honored tradition, garagistes sure are showing well with age.

1960 CHARDONNAY POISED FOR GROWTH

Just 150 acres of Chardonnay were planted in California in 1960, but the new decade marks the start of significantly expanded plantings.

Actor-entrepreneur-vintner Sarah Jessica Parker used Zoom during the COVID-19 pandemic for virtual blending sessions of her Sauvignon Blanc under the Invivo X, SJP label, from which region that's tough to get to from Manhattan even in normal times?

Marlborough, New Zealand

The Best Wines to Pair with Your Favorite Homemade Dishes

Mac and cheese with sparkling wine make a winning pair. Written by Kelly Magyarics Published 07/21/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Laura Sant Think of the recipes you turn to time and time again. What do they have in common? They're comforting, familiar and satisfying. These are the dishes that feed you and your household on a busy weeknight, the ones you trust to impress your friends when you host your first (or 50th) dinner party, the plates or bowls you tuck into when you need a little happiness in your day. They deserve a bottle of wine alongside them that will bring out the best in both food and drink. These are some combinations recommended by top sommeliers, along with recipes we love from our sister site, The Spruce Eats. Banana Pudding: Tokaji Liquor.com / Laura Sant If you've bought too many bananas and have tired of using them in bread or muffins, pop a few into the freezer until you have time to whip up banana pudding, a Southern favorite. The key to serving a wine with any dessert is to select one that's at least as sweet as the dish, otherwise both the wine and the meal-ender can come across as overtly sour. For this, Jacob Lawrence, the general manager of El Gaucho in Seattle who also heads up the wine program, loves Tokaji from Hungary with bananas. "The floral and tropical notes complement the tropical characteristics of banana so well, and it has a welcoming nuttiness that goes hand-in-hand with the cinnamon and nutmeg spice notes often found in a freshly baked banana bread pudding," he says. "Together, they are one." Recommended bottle: Royal Tokaji Aszu Red Label ($55), made with furmint, hárslevelű and muscat de lunel grapes. "Bursts of mandarin, apricot and nectarine overwhelm the senses, finished with a drizzle of acacia honey," says Lawrence. "The finish is sweet but is partnered with great acidity, allowing the banana pudding to not be overwhelmed by its richness." He recommends seeking out a 2013, as it was one of the top vintages for Tokaji. Lentil Soup: Côtes du Rhône Liquor.com / Laura Sant Whether you set it and forget it in the slow cooker or hurry up and prep it in the Instant Pot, lentil soup is a flavorful and budget-friendly dinner option. You can make a vegan version by using vegetable stock instead of chicken, while meat eaters may choose to add some andouille or kielbasa. Select a heartier red such as a syrah, which can sometimes have a bit of a smoky aroma, as well as hints of black pepper, rendering it especially great with any smoked sausage. Wines labeled Côtes du Rhône are a blend of grapes that usually include syrah. "A classic Côtes du Rhône will endow soft baked strawberry and cherry notes, as well as enhancing earthy notes, and add a subtle spice to the lentils," says Braithe Tidwell, a sommelier and the beverage director at Brennan's in New Orleans. Recommended bottle: Château de Tours Côtes du Rhône ($40). "Organically grown, this famous château centers its wines around the grenache grape," says Tidwell. "Dusty and earthy, this wine is rich and savory, [with] hints of strawberry and raspberry both cooked in the sun with definitive spice notes, specifically in the cumin and allspice category." Mac and Cheese: Crémant Liquor.com / Laura Sant Maybe you're a purist and like an easy mac and cheese consisting of creamy elbow noodles tossed with milk and cheddar cheese, then baked and topped with breadcrumbs. Or perhaps you like to swank it up with melted Gruyere and succulent chunks of lobster. The point is that everybody loves homemade mac and cheese—all the better if it doesn't start in a box with a packet of powder. With cheese, milk (or cream) and butter aplenty, this dish can be quite rich. Sparkling wine acts as a palate scrubber to cut through and prepare your taste buds for another bite of gooey deliciousness. "I love crémant because it's way more affordable than Champagne, super delicious and made from the same grapes," says Tidwell. "[Those] from Burgundy have gorgeous brioche and buttery qualities while balanced with lively crisp acidity." Recommended bottle: Domaine Michel Briday crémant de Bourgogne NV ($30), a traditional-method sparkling wine from Burgundy made with a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and aligoté grapes. "This wine combines Granny Smith apple and lemon citrus notes with a soft creaminess," says Tidwell. "It also possesses enough of a yeasty quality to match the bread crumbs on your homemade mac." Pasta Primavera: Sancerre Liquor.com / Laura Sant Not only is this pasta dish (whose name translates from the Italian word for "spring") full of seasonal vegetables, it also often has herbs and maybe even a squirt of lemon juice or sprinkle of zest and occasionally even includes chicken and garlic. It needs a chilled bottle of white wine with vibrant acidity and a herbal citrus-driven profile. To put it simply, it's dying for sauvignon blanc. Bottles from warmer climates such as California and Chile will generally be marked by riper tropical notes; those from New Zealand often show unabashedly assertive zesty lime and grapefruit, and the trademarks of expressions from France's Loire Valley are minerality and gooseberry. "Sancerres from the Loire Valley have such rich textures with a hint of flint and smoky flavors on the palate that play very well with the assortment of various vegetables in pasta primavera," says Lawrence. "As always, fresh and crisp acidity plays a huge role in balancing out this dish." Recommended bottle: Domaine Bailley-Reverdy Chavignol ($27), produced with sauvignon blanc grapes grown on steep slopes in limestone and chalky soils. "This wine has freshly picked bouquets of citrus notes with flavors of fresh lemon grass and crisp minerality, presenting a delicate but well-balanced wine that would go great with pasta primavera," says Lawrence. Roasted Chicken: Chardonnay Liquor.com / Laura Sant Baked in the oven atop crispy rosemary potatoes that soak up pan juices, perched tripod style over an open can of beer on the grill, or given a sauna of sorts in the air fryer, rendering irresistibly crunchy skin—no matter which treatment you give your bird, roasted chicken just screams comfort food. It's especially good roasted with lemon and herbs. One of the best bottles to uncork after you carve it is a chardonnay aged either in stainless steel or with moderate oak treatment. Amy Racine, the beverage director for JF Restaurants in New York City, favors unoaked chardonnays from California's Central Coast, which allow the citrus and apple notes in the wine to complement and not overshadow the poultry. Recommended bottle: 2017 Foxglove chardonnay ($18), a 100% stainless-steel-fermented chardonnay made with grapes sourced mostly from Santa Barbara County. "We poured this at The Terrace at The Edition Times Square hotel and made so many people happy, because it's right between a Burgundian and light California chardonnay in style," she says. "[It has] a creamy and slightly nutty texture, perfect with roast chicken because of its slightly lemony flavor and touch of almond notes." Sandwich on Sourdough: Chianti Liquor.com / Laura Sant These days, it seems as though everybody is raising their own sourdough starter, but don't feel guilty if you go the easier route and purchase a loaf from the grocery store or local bakery. The tangy bread makes a mean sandwich, especially this stuffed Italian sourdough boule filled with salume, provolone and a host of Italian flavors. A lighter-style red with low-to-medium tannins and good acidity to match that of the sourdough is what you'll crave. Chris Tauber, a consulting food and beverage director for an upcoming restaurant group, recommends serving a Tuscan Chianti or other sangiovese-based wine with the salume found in an Italian sub or on a charcuterie board, which will have just enough grip without being overly tannic. You may wish to chill it slightly before serving. Recommended bottle: 2016 Fattoria di Petroio Chianti Classico ($25), a red blend made in Chianti's best subappellation. "It has a balanced tannic and acid structure, with notes of pomegranate, plum and subtle earth tones," says Tauber. "I recommend you open it and let it breathe for 30 minutes prior to enjoying." Tuna Noodle Casserole: Rosé Liquor.com / Laura Sant With just a few pantry staples, you can make tuna noodle casserole, a simple yet protein-packed one-dish meal. Chunky light or albacore white tuna from either a can or pouch will do, and you can use any pasta shape you want. The casserole is also a great way to use any leftover veggies taking up space in the fridge: peas, green beans, mushrooms, celery or carrots. A fruity rosé, still or sparkling, from the South of France or otherwise, makes a perfect accompaniment. "The sweet red fruits of a rosé tend to match up quite well with the power of the savory flavors of a tuna casserole dish," says Lawrence. "Off-dry rosés will have no problem holding their ground while still allowing the casserole to be the highlight of the show." Recommended bottle: 2018 Château Gassier 'Esprit Gassier rosé ($20), a blend of grenache, cinsault, syrah and rolle from Côtes de Provence. "This wine is very approachable and has a freshness that will lead you to a smile," says Lawrence. "Aromas of almond and red currant sway into flavors of peach and subtle spice for a long-lasting finish."

Red and White Grape Wine Blends are More Common Than You Think

Making wine by blending white and red grapes is not as rare as you might think. Several of the world's most esteemed wines have been made this way for centuries. And some daring modern winemakers produce unusual, color-blended wines with vivid results. Among the most common traditional color blends is Champagne, which generally combines Chardonnay, a white grape, with red Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. "Red and white components are needed to build Champagne because one grape will dominate the other for a few years, and then it will step back into a supporting role to enhance the other grapes," says Alice Paillard, whose family owns Champagne Bruno Paillard. Eileen Crane, CEO and winemaker at Domaine Carneros in Napa, says that many sparkling wines feature red and white grapes. "Chardonnay adds structure and great ageability," she says. "Pinot Noir, on the other hand, adds roundness, softness and earlier drinkability. Of course, both grapes add a complex of fruitiness." Even white sparkling wines like blancs de noirs use red grapes, but winemakers quickly take the juice off the skins after they're crushed so it doesn't absorb red pigment. And some sparkling rosés get their color when winemakers add a small amount of red wine to the cuvée after fermentation. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, another famously color-blended wine, features both red and white blends from multiple varieties. A Quick Guide to Field Blends "You can use the white grapes in the red Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine, or you can make directly a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape," says Véronique Maret of Domaine de la Charbonnière. "This decision depends on different factors," and can theoretically wait until harvest. One reason that Châteauneuf-du-Pape winemakers might do so is global warming. "Climate change has led more Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers to consider adding white grapes in limited quantity to their red blends to improve the balance between acidity and alcohol," says Marie Clémentine Savey of the AOC Châteauneuf winegrowers' association. "Those warmer conditions from May to September mean higher alcohol levels that could threaten freshness in the glass," she says. "It is better to macerate and ferment both grapes together because it will make the blends cohesive—stable chemical links between fragrances and for complexity—and stop color from being adversely affected." Other traditional wines permitted to use color combinations include Chianti (but no longer Chianti Classico), Syrahs from Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, and many types of rosés. "We can use both red and white grapes to produce rosé, which is fantastic to master a light color, and, from an aromatic point of view, this is the fireworks of combinations," says Château Gassier winemaker Guillaume Cordonis. There are different methods and reasons to blend red and white grapes. Winemakers might blend or coferment white grapes with reds to add flavors or aroma, or to increase acidity to bolster ageability. White grapes can even help red grapes maintain a more stable hue. Several old-vine Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs in California were planted as field blends, including a small component of white grapes to add aroma and taste complexity. "One of our Petite Sirahs comes from a vineyard that has three white grapes: 3% Moscato and 1% each Gewürztraminer and Burger," says Christophe Paubert, winemaker at Stags' Leap Winery. "Aromatically, the whites bring something to the party." Additionally, Syrah producers in the Rhône Valley, Australia and California will often add a small amount of Viognier and coferment the grapes. "We found the addition of white grapes helps to soften varieties like Syrah, which might be prone to harsher tannins, especially in their youth, as well as finessing aromatic complexity, especially for varieties high in terpenes, like Viognier," says Nicole Rolet of Chêne Bleu in Southern France. "As with any blend, this also has the advantage of giving us more options to be able to rise to the challenges of a particular year," she says. "For instance, in cooler years, early-ripening Viognier can help to add alcohol and body to a leaner and more severe Syrah." Other winemakers don't need a reason to blend red and white grapes. They simply want to experiment and innovate. Comet, an experimental line from Clemens Lageder, of Alois Lageder winery in Alto Adige, uses red and white grapes from a vineyard with more than 200 varieties. One bottling, called ZIE-XVIII, is a field blend of 60% white grapes and 40% red. Sugar High: A Quick Guide to Sweet Red Wine "Last year, we fermented everything together and made a white wine, not an orange wine, by using minimal skin time," says Lageder. "It has less body than a red, with great complexity and beautiful acidity. This year, we may make it into a red wine." In California, Scott Sampler's Central Coast Group Project features a wine called Blood Orange. It's comprised of 75% Viognier and 25% leftover juice from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre pressings. "Right now, I'm bottling a new line of wines dedicated to great thirst called Scotty-Boy!," says Sampler. "One of them is a 'blush' cuvée of skin-fermented and barrel-fermented Chardonnay, with a dash of Mourvèdre for a little color, texture and extra flavor." Farther north at Sonoma Mountain Winery, Dan Marioni makes a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Chardonnay. "It gives the wine softer characteristics and can be bottled a bit sooner," he says. Meanwhile, at his namesake winery in Australia, Sam Vinciullo makes a wine that's 55% Shiraz and 45% Sauvignon Blanc. It's appropriately named Red/White. While these bottlings may be unusual, they seem to have found their audience. At press time, both Vinciullo's Red/White and Sampler's Blood Orange were sold out.

REGIONALITY FROM THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO SANTA BARBARA

The Pacific coastline from Willamette Valley down to Santa Barbara, holds a special allure for winemakers, whether due to climate, soils, or the ever-elusive terroir. This scenic swath of the country reveals some of the most unique Chardonnays being grown today.

1983 CHARDONNAY GOES TO WASHINGTON

The Reagan's insisted on serving California wines at the White House, and Nancy loved the taste of Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay. The San Francisco Chronicle's Pulitzer Prize-winning columnist and local icon, Herb Caen, caught wind of the story and wrote a column about the wine, referring to the Chardonnay as "Nancy's wine."

1980S NEW WORLD AND OLD WORLD COLLABORATE

Throughout the 1980s, an enological boom ensued as winemakers began traveling the world - France in particular - to learn winemaking techniques. David Ramey incorporated practices he saw in the cellars of Burgundy, such as oak barrel aging, the use of ambient yeasts, and eliminating skin contact.

What is phylloxera in the vineyard?

This insect was once the stuff of nightmares for Europe's winemakers, but a scientific breakthrough could yield new ways to protect vineyards, including those still at-risk. Chris MercerJuly 28, 2020 A sign in Barossa Valley in 2012. Credit: Suzanne Long / Alamy Ask Decanter Highlights An international team of scientists has succeeded in mapping the phylloxera genome, more than 150 years since the tiny insect clandestinely travelled from the US to Europe and set about destroying huge swathes of vineyard. It has taken more than 70 experts from eight countries nearly a decade to crack phylloxera's genetic code, which includes 'the largest gene family identified in a genome to date', according to French research agency INRAE. Why is phylloxera so feared? After arriving in Europe as a stowaway in the early 1860s - and perhaps slightly earlier - the phylloxera pest is thought to have destroyed half of France's vineyard area over the next few decades. This naturally prompted despair among winemakers, and other countries were also badly affected, both in Europe and beyond. Winemakers began to gain the upper hand once it was discovered that phylloxera could be beaten by grafting 'vitis vinifera' grapevines onto resistant American rootstocks. This is still common practice, but not everywhere in the wine world. In many cases, ungrafted vines remain vulnerable to the pest, which attacks the roots in order to feed. Phylloxera therefore remains an ongoing concern. Chile is considered the only major wine producing country to have largely avoided infestation, although pockets of untouched areas exist elsewhere, and the insect is believed to struggle on sandy soils. The work to map the phylloxera genome, published in the BMC Biology journal, also shows that it likely comes from the upper Mississippi River. The pest entered Europe by hitching a ride on the vitis riparia species, a wild type of American vine, according to the new research. It is now hoped that unlocking phylloxera's genome can help to improve ways of combating the insect. INRAE said, 'This new knowledge also serves to improve our understanding of biological invasions and their potentially disastrous consequences on agriculture and therefore on society and the economy.' This page was originally published in 2010, but has been updated in July 2020.

Everything You Need to Know About Port and What to Drink

This underrated style of wine might blow your mind. Written by Vicki Denig Published 08/24/20 Pin Share Email Image: Getty Images / Jim Cornfield Port is one of the most overlooked and underrated styles of wine on the market. When produced by great houses, these wines can provide some of the most delicious drinking experiences an imbiber can have. Whether paired with dessert, mixed into a cocktail or sipped neat after dinner, the versatility of port wines knows no limits, though understanding what they're all about is the key. Where It's Made Port wine is produced in Portugal's Douro Valley, located in the northern part of the country. Most ports are red, although white and rosé versions exist. The main grape varieties used to produce port are touriga nacional, touriga franca, tinta roriz (tempranillo), tinta barroca and tinta cão. More than 50 varieties are permitted in port vinification, though these five are by far the most commonly used. How It's Made There are a handful of styles in which port wines are produced, bottled and labeled. These styles are mostly determined by how the wines are aged. However, the initial steps of vinification are the same for each. Getty Images / Tim Graham Port wines are fortified, meaning that a neutral distillate is added during the vinification process. Post-harvest, grapes are crushed and fermented like any other wine. However, prior to the completion of fermentation, port producers add a neutral spirit to the wine. This addition of alcohol kills the remaining yeast and leaves residual sugar in the juice. The wines' alcohol content is also boosted (to about 19% to 20%) due to the addition of the distillate. The neutral spirit in port also acts as a natural preservative, meaning that the wines have a longer shelf life post-opening than do standard wines. No need to rush to finish a bottle; simply pop, enjoy a pour and let the bottle hang out on your shelf for a few weeks, which is fortunate, since it's often enjoyed just one small glass at a time. How to Drink It In England, the U.S and other English-speaking countries, port is usually consumed after dinner with chocolate, cheese or other evening treats, or on its own, possibly as a liquid substitute for a more typical dessert. In Continental Europe, port is more commonly sipped as a pre-meal apéritif. Port should be served around 60 degrees fahrenheit and poured in smaller quantities than standard dry wines; it's most often served in three-ounce pours. Main Styles There are several styles of port produced in Portugal. However, these styles can be generally lumped into two main categories: ruby and tawny. Ruby ports are aged in the bottle, whereas tawny ports are aged in wooden barrels, which make for an oxidative environment, meaning that oxygen comes in contact with the wine. This oxidative aging process causes the wines to lose pigment, have lower levels of tannins and take on nutty, caramelly flavors. Getty Images / vuk8691 Ruby: These ports are brightly hued, full-bodied and very fruit-forward on the palate. Notes of plums, cassis and overripe berries are most common. Post-fermentation, ruby ports are aged in concrete or stainless steel tanks, which don't permit the oxidative aging process that wooden barrels do and help preserve the wine's fruit-forward flavors. These are generally the most widely produced and least-expensive bottles of port on the market. Ruby ports are also produced in reserve, single-vintage (with a minimum of two or three years of aging), late-bottled vintage (minimum four to six years of aging) and rosé formats.Try: Graham's Six Grapes Reserve Ruby Port ($23) Tawny: This style of port is nutty oak-aged and lighter-bodied in style than its ruby counterpart. These golden-hued wines are also produced in reserve, single-vintage and "aged" bottles; the aged style gives as its age the average age of the vintages that go into the blend and is labeled most commonly in increments of 10 (you're most likely to see 10-, 20-, 30- and 40-year bottles). Tawny ports generally show flavors of hazelnuts, butterscotch, brioche, candied almonds and dried fruits.Try: Fonseca 10 Year Tawny Port ($34) Colheita: Single-vintage tawny ports are referred to as colheita ports. These wines are aged for at least seven years, with the exact vintage stated on the bottle. Colheita bottlings are not to be confused with aged ports, which give an average age of the blend within.Try: Niepoort Colheita Port ($50) White: Although much less common than the other styles, white ports can be found in the United States with a bit of effort. These wines are produced from a variety of grapes, including malvasia fina and codega. Unlike their ruby and tawny counterparts, white ports generally are at their best when used in cocktail creations or mixed with tonic rather than consumed neat.

Alecia Moore, better known as P!nk, has won several Grammys and sold over 90 million records. But she counts her vineyards and Two Wolves winery as a top achievement, growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and more in which of these regions north of Los Angeles? WRONG! The correct answer is: Santa Barbara

WRONG! The correct answer is: Santa Barbara

The Science Behind the Main Wine Aromas, Explained

Wine descriptions often come under fire for being fanciful. Can you really smell grass and grapefruit, rose petals and pepper in a wine? The answer is yes, you can. Here's the science behind it. It's all down to organic chemistry. Wine is made from grapes, and grapes draw on the same set of elements as all other fruits and plants. In unfermented grapes, most aroma molecules are bound up with sugar, so you cannot smell them. However, once fermentation turns sugar into alcohol, those volatile flavor compounds are set free and can be detected by our sense of smell. Some aromas in wine come from the grape itself and are the same compounds that occur elsewhere in nature. A type of chemical compounds found in Riesling, called terpenes, are also in citrus peel. How to Train Your Wine Palate Other aromas, like esters, are created by fermentation, while even more develop over time as wine's constituents react with each other. Then there's the influence of oak and winemaking practices, which can impart compounds that convey vanilla, caramel or coconut. All these factors contribute to the complex array of aromas we get every time we smell wine. Our brains can decipher many of them, depending on our sensitivity and the concentration of the compounds. Here's a list of noteworthy compounds found in wine, and what common aromas and flavors you may not realize come from them. Citrus, rose petals and eucalyptus / Illustration by Ryan McAmis Terpenes If you smell rose petals or citrus in your wine, it's due to terpenes, which reside primarily in grape skins and are abundant elsewhere in nature: in blossoms, fruits and leaves of myriad plants. Terpenes are a class of compound that make wines like Muscat and Gewürztraminer fragrant and give characteristic citrus flavours to Riesling. Here are some you will recognize. Linalool: This terpene, in connection with others, causes the perception of lavender, orange blossom, lily and even bay leaves. Geraniol: The compound behind the tell-tale smell of rose petals. Nerol and citronellol: Both these compounds create the floral, citrusy scents that occur in numerous flowers and fruits, and wine. Limonene and citral: These zesty flavors in wine are derived from the same compound found in citrus peel. Hotrienol: The smell of linden blossom is also a constituent of that heady elderflower smell in Sauvignon Blanc. 1,8-cineole and alpha-pinene: If you regularly smell eucalyptus in Australian red wines, or the scent of garrigue scrubland in the red wines of Southern France, you're not fantasizing. The compound 1,8-cineole gives eucalyptus trees their distinctive smell, while alpha-pinene is found in aromatic shrubs like juniper and rosemary. Both are airborne, highly volatile aroma compounds that can cling to the bloom on the skin of grapes. Rotundone: Since red wines are fermented on their skins, highly aromatic and stable compounds can make it into the wine. As a sesquiterpene, rotundone is better known for the pungent aroma it gives peppercorns, particularly white pepper. If your Shiraz, Syrah or Grüner Veltliner gives you a whiff of a recently used pepper mill, you are smelling this compound. Vanilla / Illustration by Ryan McAmis Aldehydes Hexanal and hexenal: These two aldehydes are responsible for scents of freshly cut grass and tomato leaf in Sauvignon Blanc. Vanillin: Another famous aldehyde, this is the chief flavor of vanilla beans. In wine, it derives from fermenting or aging in oak barrels. American oak (Quercus alba) tends to have more vanillin than French oak (Quercus robur), so you're not mistaken if that oaked California Zinfandel seems to particularly smell of vanilla. Learn the Five S's of Wine Tasting Benzaldehyde: If you come across the scent of bitter almond or marzipan in aged Pinot Gris or some Italian white wines, you are smelling this compound. Furfural: Reminiscent of dried wood, caramel and wheat bran, this chemical often occurs in oak-aged wines. Green bell pepper / Illustration by Ryan McAmis Pyrazines Methoxypyrazines: Ever smelled green bell pepper in Cabernet Sauvignon or leafiness in Carmenère? What you're sniffing are methoxypyrazines. These incredibly stable compounds form part of the varietal character of some grapes, especially those in the Sauvignon family. Methoxypyrazines can also be a sign of underripeness in other grape varieties, where they present as an almost acrid herbaceousness. After all, green bell pepper is just the unripe version of red and yellow bell peppers. Apple and banana notes / Illustration by Ryan McAmis Esters Esters are volatile flavor compounds created by reactions between alcohols and acids. Esters are responsible for primary fruit flavors we get in very young wine. Isoamyl acetate and ethyl acetate: Very young, white wines often smell of pear-drop candy, or a mix of banana and pear flavor. This is the result of these two very common esters. Octyl acetate: Expect aromas of oranges and citrus fruits. Butyl acetate: This ester smells of Red Delicious apples. Buttered popcorn and violets / Illustration by Ryan McAmis Ketones and diketones Beta-ionone: This compound creates the haunting scent of violets in Pinot Noir or Syrah. Beta-damascenone: Floral aromas with an undertow of red fruit come from this ketone. We Recommend:Red Wine Aroma KitFusion Air Short Stem Taste Wine Glasses (Set of 4) Diacetyl: The most obvious diketone, diacetyl smells like melted butter and can also come across as creaminess in wine. Diacetyl is a byproduct of malolactic fermentation where bacteria transforms sharp malic acid in wine into much softer lactic acid. That is why many Chardonnays smell buttery and creamy. When Chardonnay that went through malolactic fermentation is aged in new American oak, which imparts vanilla and nutty aromas, it can easily be reminiscent of buttered popcorn. Gooseberries and black currants / Illustration by Ryan McAmis Mercaptans These volatile sulfur compounds occur in grapes and are released by fermentation. 3MH (3-mercaptohexan-1-ol): The 3MH mercaptan gives intense passion fruit notes to Sauvignon Blanc. 3MHA (3-mercaptohexyl acetate): Guava and gooseberry aromas as the result of fermentation are signatures of this compound. 4MMP (4-mercapto-4-methylpentan-2-one): The leafy, fruity notes of blackcurrant, so often encountered in Cabernet Sauvignon, are the result of 4MMP. Coconut notes tend to come from aging / Illustration by Ryan McAmis Lactones Sotolon: This lactone is formed in wines that have aged. Sotolon is associated with botrytised wines like Sauternes and long-aged wines like Madeira. Depending on its concentration, it can smell of curry spice, nuts, toast or maple syrup. Octalactone: This compound comes from aging on oak, and smells of coconut. Cloves and kerosene (also referred to as petrol, in wine) / Illustration by Ryan McAmis Other common wine aroma compounds The famous petrol or kerosene smell in mature Riesling is known as TDN (1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene—now you know why it's abbreviated) and relates to sun-exposure in the grape skins. Phenols are derived from oak aging: guaiacol gives smoky, toasty and roasted aromas to wines while eugenol is responsible for spicy notes of clove.

How do organics and biodynamics affect a vineyard's carbon footprint?

Winemakers from Burgundy, Austria, Portugal and California debated the complex issues around sustainable, organic and biodynamic viticulture at a recent climate talk hosted by the Porto Protocol Foundation. Julie SheppardJuly 23, 2020 Vineyard cover crops planted to promote biodiversity. Highlights News Home An online debate around the carbon footprint of organic and biodynamic viticulture, as well as sustainable vineyard methods in a broader sense, was hosted in May by the Porto Protocol Foundation - a non-profit organisation committed to mitigating the effects of climate change. The foundation was created by Taylor's Port following a series of environmental events in Porto in 2018 and 2019, and it now has hundreds of members all around the world who share ideas on climate-positive winemaking. The recent debate, which was part of a series of online Climate Talks, was hosted by David Guimaraens, head winemaker and technical director of Taylor's Port owner The Fladgate Partnership. The panel included: Diana Snowden Seysses, of Domaine Dujac in Burgundy and Snowden Vineyards in California; Austrian Fred Loimer, winemaker and founding member of biodynamic certifying body Respekt; and Stan Zervas, vice president of viticulture at Silverado Farming Company in Napa Valley. Organic vs biodynamic With each of these winemakers practicing a style of eco-friendly viticulture to suit their specific estate, they began by discussing of the relative merits of organics, biodynamics and broad sustainability policies in general. 'We currently farm 35 different vineyards that fall somewhere in the spectrum of sustainability,' said Zervas. 'But my personal bias is towards organic; I think there's a large benefit in switching from conventional to organic.' Making wine in both the New and Old Worlds, Snowden Seysses offered perspective on having to adapt viticultural systems to both site and business model. In 2003 she became oenologist at Burgundy's Domaine Dujac - the family estate owned by her husband Jeremy Seysses - and has also been winemaker at her family winery, Snowden Vineyards in Napa, since 2005. 'When I started working with my in-laws in 2001, they were already starting with biodynamics,' she explained. 'The biggest shift is giving up herbicides; there's better soil structure, more moisture [and] more organic content, they just look more alive.' Observing this change persuaded her to push Snowden Vineyards towards organics. 'The first step is to have a healthy ecosystem in the soil. Biodynamics is just extra costs and although I love biodynamics, my family's finances just weren't there yet. Fred Loimer began to convert his family's estate in Austria's Kamptal region to biodynamics in 2006. He also pointed out the additional resources need to commit to biodynamics. 'The biggest challenge in changing was more power: you need more manpower, you need more machine power, you have to spray. You see quite a quick reaction in your vineyards - not always positive; some vineyards get poorer and poorer,' he added. Key for Loimer was discovering the 'soil life' and natural rhythm of his vineyards. 'You have more balance in your vineyards so they don't have this hysteric growth, which you see in conventional vineyards. You see a nice difference between the phases of a year: spring, summer, autumn. And you see a big difference in the grapes. They look different, they taste different.' Measuring a carbon footprint This increase in labour that comes with converting to organic or biodynamic practises can create a higher carbon footprint. 'Some people claim that to run vineyards organically, you have to significantly increase the use of tractors to spray and manage weeds, and therefore there's more negative impact on your carbon footprint from the increase in fuel use,' explained Guimaraens. How can this be counterbalanced? 'If you use a herbicide, you spray at one time and you're done for the year,' said Snowden Seysses. 'But I don't think there's a really good calculation of the carbon imprint of the different farming methods. Are calculations taking into consideration the fact that you've killed the soil and are no longer absorbing carbon dioxide out of the environment?.' Zervas said, 'We've been really trying to do carbon budgets for some of our vineyards, and it's pretty interesting how much carbon is sequestered in organic matter. So, yes, it's more tractor passes, but as you do the math, if I can up the soil organic matter by half a per cent or a per cent, we sequester much more carbon than expended by extended tractor passes.' The nitrous oxide released from chemical fertilisers is another factor. 'Nitrous oxide is 294 times more damaging than carbon dioxide. In biodynamic and organic viticulture by not using chemical fertilisers you greatly reduce the carbon footprint from just that point alone,' said Guimaraens. Looking ahead, Snowden Seysses raised the idea of converting carbon that was captured at the top of fermenting tanks. 'We have all of our hectares' worth of vineyards in one place for a three-week period,' she noted. 'All of this carbon dioxide is coming out of that sugar in one place - and you can capture it. We need chemical engineers to figure out how to sync that carbon dioxide into minerals. Seashells do it, chickens do it; it is do-able, but someone needs to figure out how to do that.' Natural resources Part of assessing a winery's carbon footprint is its use of resources, including energy and water. 'Biodynamics is a holistic system and producing everything you need is one of the main concepts,' said Loimer. 'We do composting with our own materials, we try to get manure from cows and horses. We try to work with the resources that we have.' Snowden Seysses pointed out that in practical terms, the economics of renewable energy don't always work for individual wineries. 'Seven kilometres from Domaine Dujac there's a place that combusts wood and turns it into electricity or hydrogen cells. But it would cost four times what we pay for our gas to heat our buildings, to use the cuttings from our own vineyard,' she said. Water use was also a hot topic. 'Irrigating vines has a negative impact on the carbon footprint. Both because of the energy used to pump water, but also because of the greater release of nitrous oxide,' explained Guimaraens. Should irrigation be an acceptable practice for sustainable, organic and biodynamic agriculture? 'It's not really sustainable and it has nothing to do with the holistic biodynamic system, because you're pumping water from somewhere else, so it's not a resource from the farm,' said Loimer. 'But sometimes irrigation is really the last helping hand,' he added. 'We have some vineyards on terraces where you only find 30-40cm of brown soil on the rock. And we have Grüner Veltliner, which is a variety that needs food and water. So, it's a compromise at the moment, to use irrigation in these vineyards.' In practical terms, converting an irrigated vineyard to dry farming would be time-consuming and costly, involving trials of grape variety, rootstock and site selection. 'Australia has been looking at southern European grape varieties which are naturally more drought resistant,' pointed out Guimaraens. 'So we do have tools. But things take time, they take money.' In the New World, historically there was a tendency to choose the grape variety that would give the desired style of wine, which was not necessarily the variety best suited to an individual site, 'but surely this must be the way the world should be progressing in order to reduce the need to irrigate vineyards,' noted Guimaraens. 'Unfortunately the variety is often driven by market conditions, and what will sell and what people want,' said Zervas. He noted that there is interest in dry farming in California, however. 'It's more from a California drought situation and knowing that water would be in short supply. How do we figure out how to grow great vines without using much water or using less? It is a growing interest, but we're really just getting back to techniques of our grandfathers, more than we are inventing something new.' Snowden Seysses works with some vineyards in California that are dry farmed, planted on drought-resistant St George rootstock. 'St George is already a low-yielding rootstock and then on top of that, if you're not irrigating you're going to have tiny berries,' she explained. 'So it's really a financial issue. I think frequently all choices ecological come down to financial choices.' An international standard for sustainability? With such diversity in winemaking practices - even among a group of winemakers who are ecologically minded - how can wine drinkers make positive choices about the bottles they buy? 'Organic and biodynamic standards are much more consistent, but with sustainable viticulture, there aren't really rules which guide people in every country. Should there be a global standard for sustainable viticulture?' asked Guimaraens. 'I currently have five different organisations that will do sustainable certification for us,' noted Zervas. 'They're all quite similar. Which one do we do? I don't know. But I think if you're going to use the word "sustainable" in marketing and sales, in promoting to the general public, there should be a standard - and I'd love to see an international standard. I'm a little sceptical we can get there, but I guess it's possible.' Loimer agreed. 'Especially for the consumers, yes, you need certification. There are too many winemakers who are saying they're almost organic or very much biodynamic, but they're not interested in certification because that's too much paperwork. Of course it is. But it's needed, so that when the consumer buys something they feel safe that that's what's really in the bottle.' He concluded: 'Certification, I would say at the moment is important. Maybe in 50 years everyone will be working biodynamic and then it's not necessary!'

Napa Valley

Chardonnay's legacy in Napa Valley is firmly established, but winemakers have long known that this warm, Cabernet-driven region has a rare number of cooler spots that produce superlative Chardonnay. These include higher elevations and the sections closer to the San Pablo Bay. Carneros in particular has long been a go-to AVA for Chardonnay and sparkling producers alike. Regions like Coombsville and Howell Mountain along the Vaca Range, are dominated by rhyolitic tuff in its soils. The other longstanding practice that sets Napa Chardonnays apart is the suppression of malolactic, or secondary fermentation, which preserves natural acidity. "We have such distinct microclimates here that we really can make any style of Chardonnay we want - it brings out the creativity in everybody. - Kristy Melton, winemaker, Freemark Abbey

Many wine lovers might choose oysters or caviar as their dream Champagne pairing, but don't overlook the qualities of a simple radish, say producers. Chris MercerJuly 24, 2020 Credit: Photo by Jason Leung on Unsplash. Food and wine pairing Highlights News Home Champagne makers have long considered their wines underrated at the dinner table, arguing that the range of styles gives diners ample choice to cover a three-course meal. Yet drinking a glass of Champagne while eating a raw radish is also one of life's great, simple pleasures, according to Didier Depond, president of the Delamotte and Salon Champagne houses. He isn't the only one to support the theory. Champagne growers' union, the SGV, recently relaunched a domestic advertising campaign that featured a poster showing a glass of Champagne alongside a bag of radishes above the slogan 'Champagne: reserved for all occasions' - according to French newspaper L'Union. There has been concern across the industry at falling demand for Champagne in 2020, and the SGV recently joined with other winemaker unions from Burgundy, Alsace and the Loire to demand more support from the French government, particularly for marketing and promotion. Depond credits professor Jacques Puisais with putting him onto the idea of pairing radishes with Champagne, as recently widely reported by media outlets including AFP and the Telegraph newspaper. The Delamotte president told Decanter.com that Puisais gave him the advice at the Vinexpo show in Bordeaux around two decades ago. 'I thought, is he joking or not? I started to try and the match is just amazing,' said Depond, who said he loves caviar, too, but now grows radishes in his garden and eats black radish with Champagne 'every week'. The salty, spicy and acidic profile means radish can be 'a parallel with Champagne', Depond said, adding that he thought blanc de blancs styles with brioche and bread-like aromas worked particularly well. Puisais, now in his 90s, is a respected oenologist and chemist who cofounded the Taste Institute (Institut du Goût) in France in the 1970s and has written a comprehensive guide to matching food with France's many wines. Speaking to Decanter.com via email, Puisais explained that one reason for combining Champagne and radish is the spicy character of both - the carbon dioxide gas in Champagne bringing a 'piquant' character to the wine, alongside other complex aromas. Radish appears more spicy if served with a touch of salt and butter, he said. 'By tasting the Champagne after the radish, you will therefore find the Champagne less spicy.' He said that food and wine pairing needn't be a complicated business. 'Everything is very simple in life, you just have to listen to what the food is saying to you.' Christian Holthausen, of Champagne house AR Lenoble, told Decanter.com, 'Radishes served with unsalted butter and [added] fleur de sel salt is one of my favourite summer starters and you can totally serve it with Champagne.' He suggested the house's 'Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil' rosé Champagne, made of 92% grand cru Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Noir with a low dosage of 2g/l. 'Champagne is one of the friendliest, most versatile "food wines" in the entire world,' said Holthausen, who highlighted aged comté, roast chicken and paté en croute as options to try with different styles. During a recent Instagram tasting with wine critic Gabrielle Vizzavona, Depond spoke about his love of radish and Champagne matching, but also that he enjoyed fricassée of girolles with butter alongside the Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Collection 1999. Depond added to Decanter.com that older, vintage Champagnes can also stand up to some red meats, such as venison.

Forget oysters, radish is an 'amazing' Champagne pairing

Pairing wine with Spring ingredients: What to choose

From Pinot Noir with tender spring lamb to Sauvignon Blanc with asparagus, discover the right wines to pair with spring dishes Julie SheppardMay 10, 2020 Spring salmon served with asparagus Credit: Micheile Henderson on Unsplash Food and wine pairing Highlights Say goodbye to the root vegetables, squashes, kale and cabbage of winter; it's time to celebrate spring with a raft of fresh seasonal ingredients. Gardens (literally) spring into life at this time of year, offering up leafy crops of spring greens, spinach, watercress, spring onions and wild garlic. Seasonal spring dishes are generally lighter: think tender green asparagus spears with salmon and Hollandaise sauce or minted new potatoes served alongside spring lamb. So they call for fresher styles of wines: from crisp whites and dry rosés to light, fruit-driven reds such as Pinot Noir. If you're wondering what bottles should be in your wine rack for spring, read on to find suggestions for pairing with a selection of spring ingredients. Asparagus In season from April to June, asparagus is considered a notoriously difficult match with wines. However, there are plenty of wines that do work well with asparagus - particularly when you take into account how it's cooked and what other ingredients are served with it. Sauvignon Blanc is a great go-to choice for pairing with steamed or boiled asparagus. Grassy English Bacchus also works thanks to its complimentary green flavours. Try a lightly oaked Italian Pinot Bianco with chargrilled or barbecued asparagus. While dry Spanish rosé works well with roasted asparagus. Several ingredients make natural partners for asparagus - including eggs. Asparagus with poached eggs is a classic brunch combo and for a decadent pairing - especially if your plate is topped with Hollandaise sauce - try a non-vintage Champagne or cool-climate New World Sparkling Chardonnay. Salmon The salmon fishing season starts in May and runs right through summer to September. As an ingredient salmon is a fairly versatile fish, so wine matches will depend on how you cook it. The minerality and herbaceous notes of a classic French Sauvignon Blanc, such as Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley, will match well with salmon cooked with herbs or citrus. If the salmon is served with a buttery or creamy sauce, try a Chardonnay with a bit of oak to highlight the fish. If you're serving seasonal asparagus with salmon try an Albariño from Rías Baixas on Spain's Atlantic coast with grassy, herbaceous notes to match the asparagus, but riper citrus and stone fruit to complement the salmon. Salmon is an ingredient that can easily handle spices, from chilli and ginger to fiery wasabi. Choose a wine with some sweetness to balance the heat of spicy salmon dishes, such as an exotic off-dry Pinot Gris or Gewürztraminer from Alsace or an off-dry German Riesling. It's a myth that red wine never matches fish, and if your salmon is seared, a chilled New World Pinot Noir will offer plenty of pairing pleasure. Lamb Pinot Noir is also one of the classic wine matches for lamb, which is at its most tender in late spring and early summer. This is when young lambs born in winter can be sent to market (by definition a 'spring lamb' is a sheep that's under one year old). This lighter, tender lamb meat needs a wine that won't overpower its delicate flavours and soft texture. The fresher styles of Pinot Noir from cooler climate regions can combine lovely red berry fruit balanced by earthy notes, fine tannins and good natural acidity. Try German Pinot Noir - known locally as Spätburgunder - or fresh Pinots from New Zealand. Burgundy fans could look to less-known areas on the up, such as Rully or Fixin at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, and fresher styles from Givry further south, in the Côte Chalonnaise. Some top producers have outposts in these regions - and it's also worth looking at Bourgogne Rouge from the best growers in general. As an alternative to Pinot, try a weighty rosé such as Tavel or Bandol from the south of France. Or if you're a fan of bubbles, a vintage rosé Champagne makes a deliciously decadent match for spring lamb. Rhubarb As temperatures start to rise in spring, rhubarb plants wake from their winter dormancy and their delicious pink stalks can be harvested from March and April onwards. Spring is the best time of year for rhubarb; in hot summers growth will slow down and can even stop. When it comes to wine pairing, it's the sour tang of rhubarb - caused by oxalic acid - that needs to be tamed and can make many dry wines taste harsh. The key is to go for a wine with some sweetness, as the residual sugar will balance that acidity. Late harvest wines - from classic styles such as Sauternes to New World styles like Late Harvest Torrontes from Argentina, with tropical honeyed notes, will complement poached rhubarb served with vanilla ice cream, yogurt or crème fraiche. Rhubarb and custard together are the sweet-and-sour star in several classic British puddings. Try simply roasted rhubarb and custard with an Italian Vin Santo. Or with rhubarb crumble and custard choose a sweet peachy German Riesling Auslese, which has enough acidity to cope with this indulgent pudding. A luxury option would be demi-sec Champagne, a semi-sweet style with honeyed stone fruit flavours, backed by good acidity and a sparkling texture.

Ideas for pairing wine with beef this Christmas

From fillet steak to delicious roast topside from your local butcher, here are some things to consider if you're pairing wine with beef this Christmas - plus a selection of recent reviews by Decanter experts. Chris MercerDecember 3, 2020 Will it be the Cabernet or the aged Barolo? Credit: Photo by Justus Menke on Unsplash Christmas Food and wine pairing Highlights Whether it's a couple of succulent steaks or a hearty roast for a small gathering, you're spoilt for choice when it comes to matching delicious wine with beef. Pairing wine with beef: Styles to look for Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache or 'GSM' blends Malbec Shiraz Aged Nebbiolo (Barolo) Search Decanter wine reviews to find the perfect bottle It's not too hard to find a red wine that'll work, and there is always an element of personal preference when it comes to wine and food matching, but think about the cut, age, cooking time and accompaniments if you're seeking to try a more precise pairing. White wine lovers should not despair, however, as Matthieu Longuère MS argues here. Cut 'The easiest way to pair wine with beef is to think about matching the flavour intensity of your wine with your beef,' said Mark Quick, wine director for Hawksmoor steakhouse restaurants. 'The fat in your cut is where all of the flavour is locked up,' he told Decanter.com. 'More fat equals more intense beefy flavour. For example, a fillet would be one of the leaner cuts and usually have a very subtle flavour, on the other end of the scale would be a heavily marbled rib-eye.' Leaner cuts, like fillet or topside, can be beautifully, melt-in-the-mouth tender, but could also be overpowered by a wine that is too bold. 'You could be better off going with a lighter and more subtle drop,' said Quick. 'For example, a red from the Jura, a Pinot Noir from anywhere, or there are some very good lighter Garnachas [Grenache] coming out of the New and Old world nowadays that work very well too. Dani Landi, 'La Uvas de la Ira', is one of my favourites right now. Decanter World Wine Awards judge Patricio Tapia previously suggested looking towards Altamira and Gualtallary in the Uco Valley for a fresher style of Argentinian Malbec to drink with steak. Fattier cuts of beef, such as rump, fore rib and shin, have a deeper flavour than leaner cuts. Quick said that the higher the fat content of the beef, the higher its capacity to pair with richer wines that have bolder tannins. Fat content washes away tannin in your mouth and vice-versa, he said. 'That's what keeps you coming back for more of both your wine and your steak.' This could be classic Cabernet Sauvignon territory and well-balanced wines will have tannins to help dissolve the fat, acidity to lift the dish and lots of black fruit flavours that can stand up to the richness of the meat. Give Decanter Premium this Christmas Age of your beef If you've gone for dry-aged steak or beef, then think about how long the meat has been aged for. 'Heavily aged beef possesses a gamey, sometimes cheesy characteristic that marries extremely well with old wines,' said Quick. How about wine with a few years of bottle age? 'An aged Barolo or red Burgundy would be epic,' said Quick. 'It could be the perfect excuse to drink that bottle that has been staring at you.' Cooking time Those who enjoy beef at the rarer end of the spectrum might want to opt for a wine that has richness but also a lovely juicy character. You could opt for a Grenache-based wine or a Syrah/Shiraz-Grenache blend here, such as those from the southern Rhône or South Australia. Languedoc-Roussillon also has some excellent-value options in the 'GSM' arena - wine-speak for Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre - and you could look to the Terrasses du Larzac or Pic-St-Loup for wines with plenty of fruit and a lovely ripe and balanced character that will match the succulence and tenderness of rare meat. A Malbec from Argentina - or one of the more modern styles from France's Cahors area - could also be a fantastic match here. Accompaniments and sauces Many of the classic sauces with beef hold pretty strong flavour themselves. How about meeting that peppercorn sauce head-on with the peppery notes of a great Australian Shiraz, for instance? Roast beef with red wine sauce or jus might work better with a red that shows ripe fruit, while a traditional gravy has more savoury elements to it. When it comes to steak, Hawksmoor's Quick said, 'Ignore all of my advice about avoiding big, powerful, tannic wines with lean cuts if you are going to pour sauce all over your steak. You are essentially covering your steak in butter or beef fat anyway, so should revert to the advice about fatty steaks in this instance.' White wine with beef? It might be considered a faux-pas in some circles, but several sommeliers and experts believe white wines can indeed match up to the intensity of beef. If you've got a lovely caramelised crust on your meat then a white wine with nutty flavours can be brilliant, said Quick. 'Look for extended oxidative ageing,' he said, suggesting Jura or traditional white Riojas. He also highlighted Sherry as a potential match here. 'If that's what you are into, [it] would work wonders,' he said. Oloroso, for example, is a Sherry style known for its nutty complexity. Tasting notes: Inspiration for pairing wine with beef this Christmas The wines below have been recently reviewed by Decanter experts. Château les Moines, Médoc, Bordeaux, France, 2010 A delicious, mature claret from the Cru Bourgeois Chateau Les Moines that offers exceptional value. Garnet in colour, with complex developed nose of mushrooms, cured meat and cedar spices, with a solid base of red plums and sour cherry. Wood spiced black cherry and blackberry juice on the palate, with... Points92 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Hands of Time Red Blend, Napa Valley, 2017 A more affordable pick here from the world-renowned Napa Valley winery. This has a delicious chocolate-cherry nose followed on the palate by a rich and sumptuous texture giving cool, menthol-laced blue and black fruit flavours - blueberries, plums and blackcurrants alongside floral touches of violets. It's deep, dark and brooding... Points92 d'Arenberg, Amazing Sites McLaren Sand Hills Grenache, McLaren Vale, 2010 One of three 'Amazing Sites' single vineyard Grenaches, each from a different sub-region. From McLaren Hills' deep sand on sandstone over clay, this is still... Bodegas Fabre, Viñalba Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina 2019 Viñalba's Reserve Malbecs are super, but this Bordeaux-born producer has produced a fine Cabernet here (with 15% Malbec). It's generous, supple and easy-drinking with grippy tannins on a round body, fleshed out by bags of warm, spiced black berry fruit. Points90 Trinchero, Mario's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, St Helena, Napa Valley, California, USA 2014 Brimming with ripe cassis, dark plum and black cherry aromas, this shows considerable concentration with well-honed power and understated elegance. A touch of smoke and... Estancia Mendoza, Single Vineyard Malbec, Uco Valley, 2019 + Add to My Wines Over 200 growers across the Uco Valley contribute fruit to the good-value Estancia Mendoza range, but this single-vineyard expression is sourced from a single site in Vista Flores with 20- to 25-year-old vines. Full-bodied and smooth, it's well made, with attractive violet-edged black cherry and berry aromas. Only 30% of... Points92 Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé, 2007 + Add to My Wines |Buy Now$149.95 This was really a vintage of the Left Bank, as the weather only got into its stride (apart from an excellently warm April) in September... Sandrone, Le Vigne, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy, 1996 + Add to My Wines This brings together fruit from Sandrone's vineyards in Conterni and Ceretta in Montforte d'Alba, Vignane in Barolo and Merli in Novello. Each plot is vinified... Equipo Navazos, La Bota 78, Oloroso, Jerez, Spain + Add to My Wines Undoubtedly Oloroso, with intense and inviting aromas of toffee, praline, caramel and nuts. Massive weight and concentration, wonderfully complex. Awesome. Gaja, Sperss, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy, 1996 + Add to My Wines Acquired in 1988, Gaja's Sperss vineyard straddles the Marenca and Rivette MEGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive or cru) of Serralunga d'Alba. 1996 is the first year... Domaine Badoz, Côtes du Jura Vin Jaune, Jura, France, 2010 + Add to My Wines Full gold, with a scent of crushed citrus zest and white pepper in addition to some bready warmth. It's slender and zesty on the palate, too, but with great purity, drive and vividness from the wine's resonant acid architecture. Points90 Robert Oatley, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, South Australia 2017 + Add to My Wines Ripe, juicy and fruit-forward, brimming with dark brambly fruit, a dash of mocha and savoury herbal undertones. Well-integrated tannins, subtle oak and balancing acidity deliver both muscle and finesse to the fresh, structured palate. Points90 Conti Costanti, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Tuscany, Italy, 2010 + Add to My Wines |Buy Now$34.44 Costanti's 2010 truly lives up to the hype of this highly touted vintage. Warm but not extreme, it was defined by cool nights that preserved... This article has been updated in December 2020. Earlier versions were written in 2016 and 2018 by James Button and Georgina Hindle.

Pairing wine with rhubarb: What to choose

From sweet Riesling to sparkling Moscato d'Asti, discover the right wine to pair with this seasonal spring ingredient Julie SheppardApril 26, 2020 Credit: Monika Grabkowska on Unsplash Food and wine pairing Highlights As temperatures start to rise in spring, rhubarb plants wake up from their winter dormancy and their delicious pink stalks start to appear, ready for harvesting from March and April onwards. Spring is the best time of year for rhubarb; in hot summers growth will slow down and can even stop. From February onwards you can also find 'forced' rhubarb - when growers cover the rhubarb crowns in winter to produce early growth of sweet pale pink stems. Note that rhubarb leaves are poisonous; they should never be eaten and always be thrown away or composted. When it comes to wine pairing, it's the sour tang of rhubarb - caused by oxalic acid - that needs to be tamed and can make many dry wines taste harsh. The key is to go for a wine with some sweetness, as the residual sugar will balance that acidity. As with any ingredient, it's also important to take into account how your rhubarb is prepared and served, which will alter its taste and texture. Read on to find helpful hints for perfect pairings with rhubarb. Poached rhubarb Simply cooked with sugar and water, until it is soft but retains its shape, poached rhubarb is delicious served with vanilla ice cream, vanilla yogurt or a dollop of crème fraiche. Late harvest wines - from classic styles such as Sauternes to New World styles like Late Harvest Torrontes from Argentina - have tropical honeyed notes that will complement both the rhubarb fruit and vanilla flavours. Stewed rhubarb With longer cooking time, rhubarb will break down into a thick, fruity sauce that can be served on porridge or added to breakfast smoothies. If you're having stewed rhubarb as a dessert, try it with a light, sweet, aromatic Muscat from France; which is also found in Spain as Moscatel. Roasted rhubarb It takes 15-20 minutes to roast rhubarb batons in the oven with fresh orange juice and sugar. Rhubarb can also be roasted with wine - a fruity Grenache would be a good choice - alongside spices such as star anise. Roasted rhubarb can be added to pastries, cakes and crumbles (see below). But it also makes a simple pudding served with cream or custard. Try pairing roast rhubarb with an Italian Vin Santo. Light-coloured, amber styles made from white grapes will work well thanks to their nutty, caramel notes; but the rarer red Vin Santo, made from Sangiovese, would be a good choice if you've roasted your rhubarb in red wine. Rhubarb jelly Made from rhubarb purée and gelatine, rhubarb jelly is a delicate pink dessert that can be enjoyed on its own, or served as a fruity layer in trifles or with pannacotta. Pair it with sweet sparkling Italian wine Moscato d'Asti, which is made from the Muscat grape and has notes of peach and rose to complement the lighter rhubarb flavours. Rhubarb crumble When tangy rhubarb is topped with buttery crumble pastry, you need a wine to cut through the richness of the pastry - especially if there's a jug of cream or custard on the table too. Try a sweet peachy German Riesling Auslese, which will have enough acidity to cope with this indulgent pudding. A luxury option would be demi-sec Champagne a semi-sweet style with honeyed stone fruit flavours, backed by good acidity and a sparkling texture Rhubarb and custard tart As with rhubarb crumble, tarts and other types of rhubarb pastries work well with the bubbly texture of sparkling wines, which help to cleanse the palate after a bite of buttery, fruity pastry. Prosecco is a great match here, its delicate orchard fruit notes complementing the fruity rhubarb, while its gentle sparkle provides a palate-cleansing lift.

Yes, You Can Drink Dessert Wine with Dinner

Get sweet on pairing these bottles with savory food. Written by Kelly Magyarics Updated 06/11/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Laura Sant If you aren't already a fan of dessert wines, you may be tempted to shun the entire category as being "too sweet" to enjoy at the end of the meal, let alone during it. As the name implies, these wines pack a higher sugar level than your garden-variety chardonnay or cabernet, but the best also have secret weapons up their sleeves, including lively acidity and nuanced, layered flavors. This means they can take on dishes that come before you tuck into a gooey molten chocolate cake or rustic French apple tart. Keep It Balanced When it comes to selecting dessert wines with dinner, you can use the same philosophy you'd use with dry wines, says Jennifer Foucher, the head sommelier at Fiola in Washington, D.C. "Pairings are about balance," she says. "If something is spicy, the sweetness cools it down, [and] if a dish contains nuts, a sweet wine with a nuttier profile is similar yet also a contrast." She loves to serve chestnut soup with nutty oloroso sherry and fiery Szechuan noodles with German auslese riesling, a dessert wine produced with hand-selected grapes affected with botrytis, a "noble rot" that causes them to become raisinated, concentrated and distinct. And it's really the accompaniment to the dish, such as the sauce or seasoning, that you're complementing or contrasting with the wine. "Heightened sugar levels [in dessert wines] can be a great foil for salt, fat and sour flavors found in food," says Braithe Tidwell, the sommelier and beverage director of Brennan's in New Orleans. Classic dessert wine pairings that can bookend a meal are a foie gras first course with sauternes, a botrytized wine from Bordeaux, and port served with an after-dinner cheese plate. But she believes they can easily be served throughout the course of a meal. Moelleux, another wine affected by botrytis that hails from France's Loire Valley, works well with goat cheese pasta, she says. Remember that a little of these wines goes a long way, however. Tidwell recommends a three-ounce pour—just enough to make it through each bite of the dish. "This is a great way to try something new ... without committing to a whole glass," she says. For fortified wines like port, sherry or madeira, in which brandy or a neutral spirit is added before or after fermentation, Foucher believes two ounces are plenty. Pour Some Port Port, arguably the world's most famous sweet wine, is made by adding brandy to fermenting wine, killing the yeast, halting fermentation and upping the ABV. And while it goes amazingly well with a chunk of high-quality dark chocolate, it can flex its muscles elsewhere during the meal. "Port has a weight, richness and umami quality that other wines, particularly dry wines, don't have," says Gregory Doody, the president & CEO of Vineyard Brands, which includes Warre's port in its portfolio. Because port is an intensely flavored wine, it's best matched with equally flavored and weighty dishes, as anything delicate assuredly will be overpowered, says Doody. It also tends to work better with complementary rather than contrasting pairings. Fruity ruby port is great with cheeses like Stilton and Gorgonzola; the caramel and nutty notes in tawny port work with foie gras, duck and veal; and complex LBV and vintage port is amazing with beef or venison. But don't overlook white port, an outlier and recent addition to the category, which is lovely with olives and Marcona almonds as an aperitivo or served with smoked fish. Ice Wine Is Cool If there's one category of dessert wine that can take you from hors d'oeuvres to appetizer to entree and beyond, it might just be Canadian ice wine. Grapes frozen on the vines at -10 C are harvested in the middle of the night; the water in the grapes freezes, but its sugars and solids do not. The resulting wines are sweet, with a gorgeous purity of fruit, balanced vibrant acidity and a clean finish that goes with sweet, salty and savory dishes and cleanses the palate in-between bites. "You're going to get the same flavor profiles that you would from a table wine [made] with the same grape varietals; they're just going to be more concentrated and with added sweetness," says Kayla Mudford, the estate chef for Inniskillin winery. This means you truly can treat ice wine as a table wine. Try an Inniskillin riesling ice wine with a lobster bisque or pear and bleu cheese pizza, Vidal ice wine with pâté, Gold Vidal ice wine with French onion soup or smoky pork barbecue, and cabernet franc ice wine with filet mignon. Randi Dufour, the vice president of luxury export sales for Arterra Wines Canada, which operates wine brands including Inniskillin and Jackson-Triggs, also cites the ingredients in Asian cuisine as having a particular affinity for Canadian ice wine, including pork with citrus, poultry with chiles and soy, miso, or mirin marinades. All should be served well-chilled in two-ounce pours. And if you're still not sold, Dufour suggests a change in semantics. "Maybe we all need to stop calling it a dessert wine and refer to it as a sweet or 'rich' wine," he says, because "if you pass on dessert, the opportunity to taste this liquid gold is gone." Know What Won't Work So is there any savory dish a dessert wine can't handle? Even though you might be tempted to offset the heat from the thin slices of jalapeño that sit atop hamachi crudo, Foucher doesn't recommend raw or strongly flavored seafood. "Sweet and ocean/fishy flavors don't sit well together," she says. Tidwell steers clear of extremes like bitter or lean dishes but says these bottles are incredibly versatile otherwise. "The more you play with them, the more you'll be pleasantly surprised," she says.

1976 THE JUDGEMENT OF PARIS

In 1976, a pivotal moment changed Chardonnay's course. During the Judgement of Paris, a blind tasting competition, Chateau Montelena's 1973 Chardonnay beat out its French competitors; suddenly, everyone wanted a bunch of these golden grapes. Plantings increased exponentially year over year and by 1988, there were more plantings in the U.S. than in France.

6 Things You Should Know About the Aperol Spritz

Including what it owes to Austria. Written by Amy Zavatto Updated 05/12/20 Pin Share Email Image: Liquor.com / Tim Nusog Can you have a festive summer evening anymore without the fiery sunset glow of an Aperol Spritz lighting the way? This northern Italian pre-dinner drink has taken the country—and if the global double-digit uptick in sales of its namesake amaro are any indication, the world—by slurpable storm. Aperol, prosecco, a splash of sparkling water and a juicy orange slice (or Cerignola olive, if you prefer) are the simple ingredients that do the trick. Since the Spritz shows no sign of slowing its orangey-red flow, it's time to learn a thing or two—or six—about this refreshing classic quencher. 1. Aperol Is an Amaro While its vibrant orange-red hue might lead you to believe that it's the stuff of high-octane shot fodder, Aperol clocks in at an easy 11% ABV as part of the amaro family. But while you might associate anything in that category with post-dinner digestion-aiding sipping, Aperol was created in Padua, Italy, in 1919 as an aperitivo—that is, something to be sipped before dinner to whet your appetite for what's to come. 2. "Spritz" Isn't Italian in Origin Technically, the Spritz category comes from Austria, which had possession of what is now the Veneto and Lombardy regions of northern Italy from 1805 until about 1866. Austrians didn't love the acidic northern Italian white wines being made and poured in the region and would ask for a spritzen of water to make it more palatable. And so the notion of Spritz came to be. 3. Prosecco Is the Bubbly of Choice Made from the glera grape, prosecco has long been one of Veneto's and Friuli's greatest exports, but it's also extremely popular right on its home turf. The Spritz mix began to morph once Aperol made its way east to Venice. By the early 20th century, the combo of the mildly bitter aperitif, fruit-forward bubbly wine and a splash of soda water became the iconic cocktail-in-a-goblet it is today. Aperol Spritz 2 mins 4. Choose Your Sparkling Wine Wisely You shouldn't just blindly pick up any ol' bottle of bubbly and pour it into your Aperol Spritz. You've probably heard that old trope "prosecco is sweet!" Well, it can be, but it can also be dry. The key to knowing which is which is finding the word "brut" (dry) or "extra brut" (mildly off-dry) on your label—and it may be in tiny letters on the back of the bottle, so be prepared to hunt. If you see the word "dry," that actually means the bubbly in question is sweet and probably will wind up making your Aperol Spritz taste awfully cloying. (Aperol itself isn't terribly bitter.) So read that label before you pour. 5. It's Best on the Rocks You might be inclined to forego ice. It's a wine cocktail after all, right? And you never put wine on ice, you say. Well, sure you do. (Sangria, anyone?) And an Aperol Spritz is absolutely a drink that benefits from the chill and dilution of a few cubes in a double-rocks or wine glass. Just make sure you use slightly larger cubes so they dilute more slowly in your drink. And make them with filtered water, if possible. 6. Its Popularity Is Thanks to Another Italian Aperitif While the Aperol Spritz certainly had its fans over the years, they were likely those who'd had the lovely aperitif while vacationing in Italy, via friends or family who had, or in restaurants or bars that honored the Italian aperitif tradition. But in 2003, a deal was forged with Gruppo Campari, who makes that popular red aperitif of the same name. As the cocktail revolution swelled, Aperol hitched a ride on the wave, and its once-dusty bottles earned a heavier rotation. By the end of 2019, Aperol became the company's biggest earner with double-digit growth, thanks to beyond-summer thirst for the Spritz from Hamptons beaches to snowy ski slopes. The Aperol Spritz, it seems, is no one-season pony.

How to Understand the Primary, Secondary and Tertiary Aromas in Wine

Wine has three levels of flavors and aromas that evolve over the course of its life: primary, secondary and tertiary. Younger wines display primary fruit flavors and aromas. These include black, red and dried fruit in red wines. For white wines, they can offer scents and flavors of green apples, plus citrus, tropical and stone fruits, and underripe fruits of all kinds. Primary aromas are the most obvious to detect in young wines, and they're often what sparks interest in wine drinkers. Herbs and spices, like mint, pepper or licorice, are also part of the primary category. Secondary aromas and flavors derive from winemaking processes like fermentation and aging. These can include the biscuit and yeasty notes that appear from lees stirring and autolysis (the effect when yeast dies off), or the very distinct buttery popcorn aroma that's a byproduct of malolactic fermentation in many Chardonnays. It also encapsulates the wonderful characteristics that are imparted by oak aging, like vanilla, clove, smoke, coconut or even coffee. We Recommend:20-Bottle Evolution Series Wine Refrigerator (Black Stainless Steel Trim)Vinotheque Cafe by Wine Enthusiast Undercounter Wine Cellar The last of the three levels of aromas and flavors is tertiary. These complex components occur when wine is aged in an ideal environment. In red wines, fresh ripe fruit starts to transform into stewed or dried fruit, like raisin or fig. Tertiary aromas of tobacco, earth and mushroom will come about, too. White wines start to develop dried apricot, orange marmalade and sometimes even maderized qualities, or Sherry-like notes of almonds and candied fruit. Other tertiary characteristics include nutty aromas as well as complex spice components like nutmeg, ginger and petrol. It's important to note that wines with tertiary aromas and flavors are not "better" than those with primary and secondary ones. Around 90% of wines are meant to be consumed young and fresh, while a small percentage of wines improve with three to 10 years in the bottle. Only a tiny amount of wines (some estimate as low as 1%) are meant to age 10 years or more. We Recommend:EuroCave Pure L Wine CellarWine Enthusiast VinoView 155-Bottle Wine Cellar If you are drawn to wines with fresh fruit, powerful tannins and a mouthfilling finish, you might generally prefer primary and secondary flavors and aromas. Be honest about your palate and preferences, and be confident to drink whatever and whenever you like.

1946 CHARDONNAY COMES TO NAPA

In 1946, as the country entered post-WWII recovery mode, Fred and Eleanor McCrea planted what is considered to be the first Chardonnay in Napa Valley at a converted goat ranch, known today as Stony Hill Vineyard. Other winemakers soon followed suit and evolutions in American Chardonnay commenced: Hanzell implemented controlled malolactic fermentations, and Robert Mondavi experimented with stainless steel ferments, both of which dramatically improved the quality of the wines.

1982 FIRST VINTAGE OF KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER'S RESERVE CHARDONNAY

In 1982, Jess Jackson started a revolution with his Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay, which today remains the country's bestselling white wine. "Jess understood the reality and the need to blend, to get all the different flavors from up and down the cool coast of California," says Randy Ullom, Kendall-Jackson's winemaker. From these different regions, Jess crafted an accessible, fruit-forward style that resonated with American drinkers.

1930S VARIETAL LABELING

Labeling the wine according to the grape variety begins in the U.S. This marks the first time that Chardonnay wines have actually been called "Chardonnay" on the bottle.

How to chill wine quickly

The mercury is rising but your picnic wine isn't cool, so what's the quickest way to chill a bottle of wine? See this updated article from our online archive... Ellie DouglasMay 30, 2020 Credit: Polly Thomas / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Highlights Options if you need to chill wine quickly: Freezer If you're at home, then placing your bottle in the freezer can help to chill wine fast. 'You can wrap the bottle in a wet cloth then put it in the freezer for 10 minutes,' master sommelier and restaurateur Xavier Rousset MS told Decanter.com in 2016. Just make sure you don't forget about it. Even some Decanter staff members have had their own frozen wine disasters. The union for Champagne houses advises against putting Champagne in the freezer. Ice bucket It doesn't have to be particularly sophisticated, although an old bucket or washing-up bowl might not create quite the same romantic setting at the dinner table. The key advice is that you shouldn't just fill the whole container with ice cubes and expect to chill wine in record time. If you use roughly 50% ice and 50% cold water then the chilling process will happen more quickly. The water will help to transfer heat from the bottle. 'Use plenty of ice cubes (ideally crushed ice) in a bucket with some cold water and lots of salt - yes, salt,' said Rousset. 'Make sure the bottle is submerged to the top to be more efficient. Your wine should be cool in about 15 minutes.' Ice jackets can be a good way of keeping a cool wine at a constant temperature, but they don't tend to be as efficient in quickly cooling a wine down. Frozen grapes If you've poured the wine and realise that it's too warm, then there are some options. This method takes a bit of forward planning, but you could try freezing grapes and dropping them into your wine, which won't dilate it, as suggested by Peter Richards MW. You could also experiment with gadgets that claim to be able to cool wine quickly. Ice cubes (But it's controversial...) One of the most controversial methods could be to consider the pros and cons adding ice cubes. This is probably not a technique for your vintage Champagne - and many critics would say there is never a good time at all - but you might see some rosé or lighter white wines served with ice in restaurants, for example. Richards told Decanter in 2016 that he was in favour of people doing as they wished with their wines, but he warned that the ice can melt and dilute the wine. Best serving temperatures for different styles of wine White wines Light bodied wines ideally should be served chilled, between 7-10 ̊ C (44- 50 ̊ F), whereas ones with a bit more weight - perhaps an oaked style - can be served slightly warmer, at 10-13 ̊ C (50 - 55 ̊ F). Sparkling wines should be served well chilled, and the Champagne house union recommends serving at 6-9 ̊ C. The best temperatures for white wines. Design: Annabelle Sing / Decanter Yes, red wines can be chilled Contrary to popular belief, red wines can benefit from being slightly chilled. As with white wines, the lighter styles benefit from being served more chilled than heavier ones. However, even a bold Cabernet Sauvignon could be lightly chilled to prevent it from being served too warm. As Decanter's Rhône expert Matt Walls said, 'much warmer than 18°C for a red is too high. Its flavours become blurred and soupy.' Serving temperatures for red wines. Design: Annabelle Sing / Decanter

Sonoma County

Russian River Valley The Russian River Valley is named for its eponymous and famed tributary, which meanders through miles of gravel-laden benchland vineyards. The region also features a wide range of geological contours, from low-lying ridges to rolling hillsides, all brought together by the daily fog intrusion that keeps the warmth of the famously sunny days balanced, as Chardonnay ripens into a rare combination of richness and power — the unmistakable stamp of the Russian River. Sonoma Coast The largest of the North Coast AVA's, the Sonoma Coast nevertheless has a wide range of soils — more than all of France combined. The many hillsides, twisting valleys and ridges confer a level of intimacy to the Chardonnay sub-regions; elevated sites on Sonoma Mountain and the Mayacamas are firm, savory examples while the gravel benches of the Russian River confer richness and power alike. The outlier is the "extreme Sonoma Coast," which lies to the far west off the county. This area possesses famed Goldridge soils, more rainfall than the interior of Sonoma which promotes Chardonnays with extraordinary firm, ageworthy qualities.

Central Coast

The expansive Central Coast counts Monterey, Santa Maria Valley and Sta. Rita Hills among its numerous AVAs. Although this widespread region may seem disparate, the Pacific Ocean's influence creates a commonality among many of these coastal regions. La Crema's Craig McAllister draws several comparisons between the extreme Sonoma Coast and Monterey. "The wind really howls down that valley off of the Monterey Bay and then cools down what can be pretty extreme daytime temperatures," he says. "We get a mix of fog and wind, and between those two there, it really does depress temperatures," leading to a long growing season, bright acidity, and well-developed fruit flavors. Soils, like in his Sonoma Coast vineyards, are well-draining, loamy soils. "Again, relatively low vigor, relatively low-nutrient status on soils there, free-draining, and ideal for growing Chardonnay." In Santa Maria Valley, the wind that comes through the east-west transverse mountain range from the ocean, as well as the fog, creates what Cambria winemaker Jill Russell calls their "refrigerated sunshine." The cool climate reveals itself in the wine's bright acid and citrus fruit flavors, but Russell notes it brings out new layers when working with the fruit in Cambria's Katherine's Vineyard. The site was planted in 1971 and the thriving older vines produce complex grapefruit and lime flavors, along with what Russell calls a "fleshy" texture. Among other varieties planted in the vineyard, "I'm actually picking the old vine Chardonnay last, because they really hang on with the cool weather," she says. Although Greg Brewer of Brewer-Clifton and diatom draws influence from Japan into winemaking — the reverence for raw materials, the imperfectly perfect concept of "wabi-sabi," for example — Sta. Rita Hills terroir remains his North Star when crafting Chardonnay. Diatom is an homage to the "physical landscape, this diatomaceous earth that we have here," he says. "It's white, chalky and kind of lunar-looking. To have a mine in the area - it's a really unique thing." For both Brewer-Clifton and diatom wines, the cooling effect from the Pacific winds and fog allows him to pick quite late; the interplay between the ripe fruit and the "salty, margarita-esque" qualities creates unique tension and what Brewer calls a "bass-treble, teeter-totter," balance to the wines.

CHARDONNAY A revolution of [good] taste.

More than ever, now is a great time to drink Chardonnay. As it's America's favorite grape, drinkers may think they know this ubiquitous white variety. But a look beyond the label reveals there's an evolution taking place; from a diverse range of styles, to experiments in winemaking, to new regions making exciting, terroir-driven Chardonnays, there's so much to discover. It's not just the U.S. that's charmed by Chardonnay; the grape's different iterations can be seen in some of the world's most revered - and expensive - wines. In Burgundy alone, the style swings from crisp, mineral-driven Chablis to round and layered Meursault. Sparkling wines, especially Champagne, employ the grape, either as part of a cuvée or a solo star in a Blanc de Blancs. Excitement over Chardonnay is palpable in newer regions like Willamette Valley in Oregon, where close attention to terroir and clones brings a level of success that previously eluded the region. Places like Anderson Valley are emerging as some of the most dynamic winemaking regions in the country due to their success with the variety, and simultaneously expanding the definition of California Chardonnay. Globally, southern hemisphere regions like South Africa, Australia, and Argentina showcase the diversity of their climates with their versions of the grape. Part of Chardonnay's popularity can also be attributed to its resiliency. It's faced some backlash over the years, but that's only spurred winemakers forward in their quest to prove naysayers wrong. Constantly morphing and constantly evolving, Chardonnay refuses to rest on its laurels. As we enter a new revolution for Chardonnay, now is the time to open your mind and open a bottle.

How Anyone Can Be a Vineyard Manager

Vineyard manager, agronomist, viticulturist. All refer to someone whose job is to make sure that grapes on the vine are tended to and allowed to flourish into their best selves. The role is like a project manager of sorts, where the fruit is shepherded from bud break to harvest to reinforce the philosophy that "great wine starts in the vineyard." "You are surrounded by wonderful landscapes, in the open air, with no pollution and in permanent 'dialogue' with nature," says Manuel Iribarnegaray López, technical director at Marqués de Cáceres Group in Spain. He studied agriculture and spent six years as an agronomic engineer in Madrid, with a focus on crop management. How Anyone Can Become a Winemaker Today, he oversees roughly 1,500 acres in Rueda, Ribera del Duero and Rioja, and works with experimental grape varieties. "The grape and the wine are totally linked," says Iribarnegaray López. "What you do in the vineyard today is what you are going to delight in the wine in five, seven or 10 years." If you're passionate about grafting, pruning techniques, soil pH, canopy management and other factors that ensure grapes reach their full potential, here's how to pursue a career amid the vines. Manuel Iribarnegaray López, technical director, Marqués de Cáceres Group / Photo courtesy Marqués de Cáceres Group Start with education. An agricultural degree worked for Iribarnegaray López when he segued into viticulture. It augmented necessary technical skills like how to use crop management software, geo-localization and vigor index analysis by satellite. Stirling Fox, owner of Stirling Wine Grapes, Inc., which is contracted to help manage the vineyards at Abbey Road Farm in Oregon's Willamette Valley, recommends a two- or four-year viticulture degree. Fox has been a professional vineyard manager for more than 25 years. Working part time at restaurants during college piqued his interest in wine. He changed his educational focus from science toward viticulture. Stirling Fox, owner of Stirling Wine Grapes, Inc. / Photo courtesy Stirling Wine Grapes Work in the vineyards, learn from others and be humble. "You must develop the ability to understand what the vine is asking you [and] what it needs," says Michele Pezzicoli, vineyard manager at Tenuta di Arceno in Tuscany, Italy. "You need to understand the characteristics of the soil and how [they] transmit to the plant and, ultimately, the wine: its character, structure, minerality, complexity and all that is required to make a great wine." How Anyone Can Become a Sommelier There's a touch of mysticism involved in raising grapes destined for a bottle rather than a fruit bowl. Wines remain living organisms that continue to evolve in fascinating ways after grapes have been pressed and their juice is corked. Books and degrees are helpful, but it's no replacement for time spent among the vines. Franco Bastias, agronomist, Domaine Bousquet / Photo courtesy Domaine Bousquet "You must be in the fields with the vine workers and the plants, and get dirty," says Franco Bastias, agronomist at Domaine Bousquet in Mendoza, Argentina. The ability to listen and learn from others is an integral part of being a successful vineyard manager. Bastias's parents spent their lives in the fields. He would accompany them on field trips to a Uco Valley winery where a vineyard manager taught them techniques on how to prune and fertilize. "Listen to the people who work with you, who many times lack formal education, but having grown up and spent most of their time working in a vineyard have a lifetime's worth of advice and techniques to offer," he says. Know what you don't know, and be open to let others with more experience show you. Miguel Ortiz, vineyard manager, Ponzi Vineyards / Photo courtesy Ponzi Use your management experience. Vineyard managers work with multiple crews and juggle a mountain of hectic tasks, particularly during growing and picking seasons. Draw on any experience in your background where you had to manage others, and tap into existing skills in delegation, motivation, teamwork and training. "I teach and provide the proper tools to the vineyard crew so they can perform their jobs to the best of their ability," says Miguel Ortiz, vineyard manager for nearly 25 years at Oregon's Ponzi Vineyards. Born in Southwest Mexico, he emigrated to Oregon as a young adult and began as a standard employee before working his way up the ranks to foreman and manager. He continues to educate his 15-person crew about the importance of thoughtful farming. How Anyone Can Become a Distiller "Work hard, be honest and always be open to learning," says Ortiz. Iribarnegaray López points out that the job doesn't stop at the estate's boundaries. "Nowadays, a vineyard manager is not only in charge of the vineyards that belong to the winery," he says. "[They're] also in continuous contact with all the winegrowers that have relations with the company." This means visiting and monitoring outside vineyards as well. Iribarnegaray López stresses that communication and organizational development is key. Maya Hood White, associate winemaker/viticulturist, Early Mountain Vineyards / Photo courtesy Early Mountain Get a job in the cellar. California-born Maya Hood White, associate winemaker/viticulturist and former vineyard manager at Early Mountain Vineyards in Madison, Virginia, first studied mathematics and engineering. Her curiosity led to stints in wine cellars to gain experience, though she doubted her competence in the vineyard. "I struggled growing basil plants in my house," says Hood White. "How could I even consider vines?" At the University of California, Davis she earned a master's degree in viticulture and enology. During that time, her interest grew as her responsibilities expanded to vineyard work and management. Hood White recommends a combination of study and experience in both aspects of the industry, rather than feeling the need to pigeonhole oneself into either grape-growing or winemaking. "At times, I felt the need to pick between a role in the cellar or vineyard," she says. At Early Mountain, the lines between grape growing and winemaking are highly blurred. Today, Hood White splits her time between tasks like scouting vineyards for pests or diseases, and balancing aromatics with barrel influence in the winery's single-vineyard Tannat. "I wish I knew how natural and seamless operating in two different spaces could be," she says. Michele Pezzicoli, vineyard manager, Tenuta di Arceno / Photo courtesy Tenuta di Arceno Relish your role in the winemaking process. Though Mother Nature gets a lot of the credit when a vintage turns out perfectly, so should the vineyard team. "There is something incredibly special and gratifying to follow and support vines through a portion of their life," says Hood White. Fox agrees, citing it as the coolest part of his job. "Delivering beautiful, consistently ripe fruit for winemakers who appreciate our attention to detail and quality is a proud moment every time, every year," he says. "It's what our work is all about."

Yes, Wine Scores Still Matter

When I was asked to become a contributing editor for Wine Enthusiast more than six years ago, I was a tiny bit reluctant. The job meant constantly reviewing hundreds of wines from across California's Central Coast, writing up descriptions for each and assigning scores on the 100-point scale. I'd never reviewed wines in such a regimented way before, nor did I have much trust in a system that assigns numbers to something so potentially subjective as one person's opinion of a wine. Nearly 15,000 wines later, my perspective has evolved radically. I now have greater understanding of the skill, experience and methodology behind the blind-reviewing practices that the magazine employs. Now, when some sommeliers, winemakers and journalists bash the practice of scoring wines as an outdated, useless exercise, all I ultimately hear are arguments for less information. In an era where strategic misinformation and media-silencing campaigns infect the entire globe, I can't see how anyone who values knowledge can argue that any form of legitimate information should be stopped. That includes investigative reports on government misdeeds as well as one critic's thoughts about and score for a particular bottle of wine. Is It Time to Redefine 'Sommelier'? The ultimate question that such discussions can be boiled down to is just how much weight should be placed on the numeric score. For me, a score is just one metric people can take into account when selecting wine. Should it be the only metric? Hopefully not. Should people learn about critics to know where they stand on certain styles? Hopefully so. Do critics who taste from specific regions year after year while regularly visiting vineyards and meeting with winemakers have valuable insight into a given wine? Of course. The most salient argument against scores tends to center around blaming Robert Parker for preferring a ripe style of wine that became the norm in the later 1990s. That was a different era, when Parker's voice was just one of a few. Today, opinions around wine are endless, and there are so many niches for different styles that I don't see any danger of falling back into a Parkerized predicament. Consciously or otherwise, the argument against scores degrades one source of useful information while trying to uplift another, usually from the person doing the complaining. Where's the harm in having multiple trusted sources of information at our disposal, and then make up our own minds?

What does 'Brut' mean on a Champagne label? - ask Decanter

You see the word 'brut' on many Champagne bottles, but what does it mean and what does it tell you about the contents? Chris WilsonOctober 20, 2020 Credit: Tristan Gassert / Unsplash Ask Decanter Highlights Brut is the second 'driest' category of Champagne and is by far the most popular. As any wine lover will know, classification systems can be confusing and you often to need to be 'in the know' in order to decipher what the label is telling you. When it comes to Champagne, one of the main things to decipher involves the sugar content of the fizz, also known as the level of residual sugar. The classification system for Champagne, based on grams per litre, is as follows: Doux: More than 50 g/LDemi-sec: 32-50 g/LSec: 17-32 g/LExtra dry: 12-17 g/LBrut: Less than 12 g/LExtra brut: 0-6 g/LBrut nature/Zero dosage: Less than 3 g/L Most non-vintage Champagnes contain less than 12 grams per litre of sugar but more than 6 g/L; this is commonly considered the 'sweet spot', where the sugars in the wine balance its high acidity and CO2 content to produce a finished product that's universally appealing. How do Champagne producers control how much sugar is in the wine? Champagne isn't made in a sweet style, but the sugar comes from the 'dosage' that is added at to the dry wine post-secondary fermentation in bottle. 'Dosage liqueur generally contains 500-750 grams of sugar per litre. The quantity added varies according to the style of Champagne,' says the Comité Champagne, the trade association that represents the interests of independent Champagne producers and Champagne houses. By determining how much dosage to add, each Champagne producer can determine how sweet or dry their product will be, with the lion's share ending up in the Brut zone. Does Brut Champagne pair well with food? Absolutely. The late and great Gérard Basset MW MS OBE recommended Champagne with soft cheeses, because one needs 'good acidity to cut through the high fat content'. Champagne expert, author and Decanter contributor Michael Edwards, meanwhile, cites seafood as the perfect match for Blanc de Blancs Champagnes, which primarily come in the Brut style. 'Blanc de Blancs is the natural match with seafood because of its fresh citrus spectrum range of flavours,' he said. There's something to be said for extra brut and brut nature food pairings too, both of these bone dry styles go well with oysters and lobster. Do other sparkling wines carry the Brut label? In France the other category of sparkling wine aside from Champagne is Crémant, and these are traditionally made in a Brut style too and reflect this on their labels, for example the Emile Boeckel, Brut Rosé, Crémant d'Alsace, 2018, reviewed by Decanter in August 2020. Elsewhere you can find Brut Cava from Spain and Brut English sparkling wine. Many 'new world' sparkling wines, such as those from South Africa or Australia, also carry the Brut moniker and fit broadly within the EU's sugar classification brackets.

Does Your Wine Glass Really Matter? BY JASON WILSON Photo by Tom Arena Wine lovers have long been told that certain glasses are absolutely essential to optimize specific vinous characteristics or emphasize a particular pour. The truth, though? While some shapes may enhance your perception of wines like Burgundy and Bordeaux, what they really offer is visual enjoyment and a sense of occasion. So, sure, all those sheer silhouettes do improve your experience, but those who don't have the space or budget for an array of styles can savor wine at its peak just as well from a single, top-quality piece of universal glassware. How to Select the Right Wine Glass Simple Science As long as the diameter of the nonstem part of a glass, called the cuppa or bowl, is wider than its opening, the effect on aroma and flavor perception is minimal. Hildegarde Heymann, Ph.D., a sensory scientist in the Viticulture and Enology department at University of California, Davis, arrived at that conclusion based on people tasting the same type of wine in two different glasses, as well as people drinking multiple styles of wine out of the same glass. There will be "nuances," she says, but not much overall difference. Much of what we know about wine glasses and sensory evaluation comes from a 1999 study by Ulrich Fischer. To analyze the effect of glassware on aroma, he and colleagues blind-tasted four different wines with 10 glasses that varied in height, aperture and diameter at their widest point. Several shapes proved superior to the International Standards Organization (ISO) glass, the then-standard for pro-tastings, in producing "the highest [odor] intensities in nearly all attributes," the report stated. Further, the scientists found no evidence that a specific shape can better accentuate any given wine. We Recommend:Zalto Denk'Art Universal GlassZENOLOGY Universal Wine Glasses One Glass To Rule Them All The universal glass was designed in the wake of this research, and it's become popular among somms and home drinkers. Aside from a cuppa diameter that's wider than the mouth, most taper for ideal aeration. Top versions are made with an ultrathin lip to ensure the wine gets all of your attention. "It's a perfect glass," says Roland Velich, winemaker at Austria's esteemed Moric winery. "It works perfectly for so many different wines, and to enjoy [them] at a very high level."

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Which of these is NOT among the top, reputable auction houses in the wine world?

Sleepy's

What Does 'Baking Spice' Mean in Wine? BY LAUREN MOWERY Illustration by Alyssa Nassner Holiday cookies, pies and fruitcakes. Yes, they all have sugar in common, but they share another trait: the piquant fragrance of baking spice. Curiously, baking spice has become a common descriptor for red wines and some whites. What do wine professionals mean when they use it? Baking spices usually refer to a collection of aromatic seeds, bark and roots evocative of fall and winter holidays. Christmas pudding, a traditional dish in Britain, epitomizes this collaboration. The dark, sticky, sponge-like dessert soaks up the pungent variations of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, cardamom or allspice. Jason Wagner, the former wine director for New York City's Union Square Cafe and host of virtual tastings for Great Heights Wine Co., often refers to this pseudo-seasonal aromatherapy as Christmas spice. "In trainings, I would use the term 'Christmas spices' and then immediately follow that with 'ginger, cardamom, clove, nutmeg, coriander...' to establish what I meant by that term," he says. Wagner acknowledges the phrasing can be problematic, given that not everyone celebrates Christmas, including himself growing up. "However, I think everyone in America has probably come across that kind of smell in a retail store or coffee shop during that time of year," he says. What Do 'Legs' Mean in Wine? How does a wine come to smell like warm gingerbread and winter spice lattes? It's because red wine is most often has contact with wood when it's aged. Chris Struck, New York City sommelier and virtual tasting host with The Supper Share and Ink & Root, uses the term "for better or worse" when he describes wines aged in new oak. "French oak often brings more savory spice notes, and American oak brings sweeter notes, a.k.a. baking spice," he says. American oak also imparts more vanilla and coconut aromas. The size of the barrel and the intensity of its toast level influence the amount of spice that a wine absorbs. Aficionados of brown spirits know the effect, especially those who favor Bourbon, which ages in new, heavily charred barrels. Staves and oak chips also lend spice, since the aromatic compound eugenol is found in both cloves and oak. Certain red grapes have a propensity to show baking spice as part of their aromatic profile. "Producers of ripe Sonoma Pinot Noir come to mind," says Struck. Other red varieties which commonly feature notes of baking spice include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Sangiovese. Red wines can't claim complete dominion over holiday aromas. Oak-aged whites and some white varieties can also exude a seasonal perfume. Wagner finds Christmas spice in Pinot Gris from Alsace, as well as Gewürztraminer. "Robert Sinskey in Napa makes a late-harvest Pinot Gris that often has that spice note," he says. "I love to have it on the Thanksgiving table because it just feels so fitting for that time of year."

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Wine yeasts: How do they impact wine flavour? - Ask Decanter

Don't go thinking that all yeasts are the same or that their only job is to 'make' alcohol; yeast strains can also affect a wine's character. Sylvia WuSeptember 11, 2020 In the world of wine, the use of yeast is commonly associated with the species of saccharomyces ('sugar fungus') cerevisiae, also known as brewer's yeast Credit: : MELBA PHOTO AGENCY / Alamy Stock Photo Ask Decanter Highlights What are yeasts Yeasts are single-cell microorganisms that are responsible for the production of the enzymes that permit fermentation; the conversion of six-carbon sugar molecules into ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide while releasing heat. During fermentation, yeasts also produce small amounts of volatile compounds, such as esters, aldehydes and sulphur, which can contribute to the varied aroma and flavour profiles of the finished wine. In the world of wine, the use of yeast is commonly associated with the species of saccharomyces ('sugar fungus') cerevisiae, also known as brewer's yeast because it is used to make beer and leavening bread. Cultured vs indigenous yeasts One of the most controversial subjects in the winemaking realm is whether to use yeasts naturally present in vineyards and wineries (ambient or 'wild' yeasts) or those that have been manually cultivated to serve certain winemaking needs. Traditionally, spontaneous fermentation is a combined effect of a mixture of naturally existing yeasts. While the indigenous Saccharomyces species is usually found on the surface of grape berries, there are also other (non-Saccharomyces) wild yeasts that are present in the environment. Although they can also impact on the flavour and quality of the wine, they tend to give way to the brewer's yeast when the alcohol strength in the must goes significantly higher than 5% abv, or there is sufficient level of sulphur dioxide to restrict their activities. While there is still debate about the issue, indigenous yeasts are considered by some winemakers as part of the local terroir. They are believed by some to give a more balanced and complex flavour profile to a wine. Decanter columnist Andrew Jefford previously cited research that found indigenous yeast can not only 'maximise personality differences, but take each wine to a different resting point in terms of sugar conversion'. Also read: Yeast - Call Me Dad However, using naturally existing yeasts always presents the risk of unwanted strains - such as Brettanomyces - causing aromas and flavours that are considered undesirable by some. Equally, wild Saccharomyces yeasts can also be ineffective and unpredictable. In order to eliminate such risks and ensure a smoother, more controlled fermentation, many modern winemaking operations choose to use one or more pre-selected yeast strains. In an earlier Decanter article, Benjamin Lewin MW estimated that use of so-called cultured yeast in winemaking 'ranges from 70%-90%' worldwide. These cultivated strains, which were originally isolated from ambient yeasts, can vary widely in their characteristics, including the aromas and flavours they promote (see below), their tolerance to the environment (e.g. sulphur dioxide levels, heat and alcohol levels) and their efficiency in converting sugar to alcohol. Producers can thus pick-and-choose the most ideal characteristics to make their wines. Defenders of wild fermentation argue that the use of a single, cultured yeast strain leads to somewhat artificial flavours or a lack of diversity between wines, However, some winemakers are experimenting with blends of cultured yeasts from the more than 200 strains available in the market. Yeasts and flavours Yeasts 'can colour, shape and mould the entire sensual presence of the wine', as Jefford puts it. 'The gooseberry aromas of Sauvignon Blanc, the lychee of Gewürztraminer, the strawberry notes of Pinot Noir - none of these are found in the grapes, but they are released or created by yeast during fermentation,' according to Benjamin Lewin MW. Read the full feature: Yeasts - do you know what's flavouring your wine? Lewin pointed out that the influence of yeasts is most evident in aromatic wines, because 'small changes in the concentrations of key components can greatly affect varietal character'. The banana notes of Beaujolais Nouveau, for instance, are believed to come from the increased formation of isoamyl acetate due to yeast strain 71B. The CY3079 yeast can increase the hazelnut and brioche notes of Chardonnay. The amount of monoterpenes released by yeasts is also understood to significantly alter the expression of aromatic varieties such as Gewürztraminer and Muscat. The gooseberry and passion fruit aromas of Sauvignon Blanc can be traced back to elements in the grapes, which are converted into sulphur-containing compounds during fermentation. Yeasts can continue to contribute to wine flavours even after they are dead. When left in the wine after fermentation, the dead yeast cells, or lees, start to dissolve due to the enzymes in a process called autolysis. Also read: What are lees in wine? - Ask Decanter This process can provide a rounder mouthfeel and richer textures to a linear base wine, while adding brioche and biscuit-like flavours. Lees aging is widely used in producing some white wines, such as in parts of Burgundy and Muscadet. It is also crucial in making Champagne, as well as 'traditional method' sparkling wines more generally.

TODAY CHARDONNAY STILL #1

Today, Chardonnay remains the most popular wine variety consumed in the U.S., driven by the diverse range of high-quality styles crafted by some of today's most influential and innovative winemakers.

Virtual wine learning in the US: Six great options

With #stayathome measures still very much in place, wine-focused businesses across the United States have shifted gears to stay afloat. From online courses to Instagram 'live' sessions, see the various ways to carry on learning about wine... Vicki DenigMay 11, 2020 Credit: Christin Hume Unsplash Exclusive Highlights In addition to offering take-out and delivery services, many retailers, sommeliers and industry employees alike are looking to online education to keep wine drinkers - as well as themselves - engaged. Ironically, there's actually no better time to dive deeper into the world of viticulture and vinification than now. Thanks to our virtual pivots, the internet is full of content perfect for levelling up one's wine game. And best of all, most of it won't cost you much - if anything. Additionally, numerous retailers and wine bars are continuing to ship nationwide, making sipping, studying, and satisfying your craving for knowledge easier than ever. Make the most of your quarantine and learn about wine from the comfort of your own couch with the following six suggestions. Simply pop, pour, and prepare to walk away a little smarter than before... Get your reading on By now, you're probably pretty far removed from your 'read more' New Year's resolution, although social distancing may offer you an opportunity to make up for lost time. In addition to the classics (The World Atlas of Wine, Adventure on the Wine Route, The Oxford Companion to Wine), a handful of incredible wine books have been released over the last 12 months. For those looking to learn about wine in a bare-bones, simplified format, Aldo Sohm's Wine Simple is the perfect instruction-based guide. Advanced imbibers can dive into the world of soil, terroir, and the ways in which the two collide in Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay's book, The Sommelier's Atlas of Taste, as well as Alice Feiring and Pascaline Lepeltier MS' Dirty Guide to Wine. And for those looking to kick back, relax, and read something a bit more story-driven, look no further than Jane Lopes' Vignette. This beautiful book simultaneously provides foundational information through the lens of 100 wine bottles (with some beer and spirits smattered in along the way), along with first-hand anecdotes from Lopes' personal wine endeavors. Dr. Laura Catena's gorgeously illustrated book, Gold in the Vineyards, also highlights twelve foundational stories of love, loss, and viticultural magic through 12 of the world's most famous vineyards. See more great wine books to read while in self-isolation Somm chats / Winemaker interviews A handful of the country's most seasoned sommeliers are offering free Zoom/Instagram Live chats with colleagues, winemakers, and fellow sommeliers across the globe. To learn from some of the best, head to Raj Parr's Instagram and get it on his 'Alone Together series.' Past guests include Paul Wasserman, James Molesworth, and Dr. Jamie Goode. On select weekdays, tune in to Aldo Sohm's Instagram Live for 'Aldo Live,' which features chats (in English or German, depending on the day) with prominent industry figures. Past guests have included Eric Ripert, Jean-Marc Roulot, and Gerhard Kracher. And for a dose of comic (wine-soaked) relief, visit legendary sommelier Paul Grieco in his 'bunker' at @terroirny. Hit the classic sites... and then some As always, visiting wine-focused websites is a great way to learn about wine, though knowing where to look is key. We would obviously recommend Decanter.com as one resource, but you could also head over to GuildSomm, which is one of the unofficial go-to reference for most industry professionals. The site's in-depth essays are perfect for diving deeper into viticulture and vinification-related topics, and their online classes, seminars, and extensive professional network make connecting with other wine-focused professionals a breeze. Head to Terroirist.com, too, for a daily roundup of beverage-focused articles from across the world. Online courses Although in-person courses are momentarily on hold, many wine education centres have pivoted their classes online. Both the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) and International Wine Center (IWC) are offering classes online, as is the Napa Valley Wine Academy. For those looking for a more informal approach to wine education online, consider creating your own virtual tasting group among friends. Elevate your weekly Zoom happy hour by generating a structured tasting around a specific topic, region, or producer. To really add a layer of professionalism, call your local retailer and/or wine bar sommelier and see if they'll jump on and guide your group through for a small fee. See more top online classes to try in self isolation Virtual masterclasses For those looking to partake in wine classes without the structure and schedule of WSET or IWC, jump in on a virtual Masterclass held by one of the country's top industry professionals. New York City-based Master Sommelier Laura Maniec, founder of Corkbuzz (NYC and North Carolina) is offering a handful of Virtual Master Classes for just $10 a pop. The Wine Workshop Club is also putting out a number of tasting workshops, ranging from Planet Friendly Wine to Blind Tasting. Be sure to place your order up to 72 hours in advance to allow for timely delivery. Taste alongside winemakers While we're all dreaming of the day we're back in winery tasting rooms, visiting them virtually is a great temporary compromise. A handful of wineries across the country are offering virtual tasting packages, equipped with a curated selection of bottles delivered straight to your door. You will then be guided through the tasting by a winery staff member - and sometimes the winemaker. As most winemakers are busy in the cellar year-round, and therefore unavailable to host tasting seminars, this is a great opportunity to snag information straight from the source. Forget poking around online for various vintage and vinification details, simply ask the hands behind the bottle yourself. For instance, Virginia-based Greenhill Vineyards hosts a weekly Facebook Live tasting with winemaker Ben Comstock every Thursday, and neighbouring Walsh Family Wines also hosts a regular Facebook Live Virtual Blind Tasting. Willamette-based Nicolas Jay hosts weekly virtual tastings with winemaker Jean-Nicolas Méo - also owner of Burgundy's Domaine Méo-Camuzet - and assistant winemaker Tracy Kendall. St. Helena's Stony Hill Vineyard is offering 45-minute private virtual wine tastings, too. Use code NEEDWINE for free ground shipping. Elsewhere, Red Mountain AVA is running a robust virtual tasting series through to the end of June, which includes the option to sip along at home with winemakers. Topics include vineyard tours, special occasion wines and age-ability - tune in via Facebook (@RedMtnAVA). The Red Mountain buying guide also features special shipping discounts, curbside pickup options and more. These are just a few of the many options available across the US. Contact wineries in your area to shop small, support local, and get in on the fun. See more virtual masterclasses to enjoy from home

How to let a wine breathe, and when - Ask Decanter

Your kitchen doesn't have to resemble a science experiment, but some wines are considered to benefit from a bit of breathing space before you drink them. Ellie DouglasMay 15, 2020 Credit: Stephen Howse Ask Decanter Highlights When people talk about letting a wine breathe, this is really about exposing the wine to oxygen by allowing it to aerate before you drink it. There is a lot of debate about the necessity of doing so, but aerating some wines is broadly considered to release more of the wine's aromas and soften tannins - which can be particularly helpful on a young, full-bodied red wine. You can let a wine breath by decanting it, but several experts believe that simply swirling the wine in your glass can have the desired effect in many cases. There are kitchen gadgets that claim to aerate wine, although 'several don't make much difference', Ronan Sayburn MS told Decanter in 2016. What most experts can agree on is that just opening the wine and leaving the contents in the bottle won't really help. The neck opening is so small that your wine isn't going to get enough air in time for dinner, nor probably even for tomorrow morning's breakfast. On the other hand, this feature also helps the wine to last for a couple of days - and sometimes longer - after opening. When should you let a wine breathe? Swirling your glass is effectively aerating the wine, even if briefly, but what about letting a wine breathe for a longer period of time? 'I always give the same advice to people,' said Clément Robert MS, a Decanter World Wine Awards judge and named the UK's best sommelier in 2013. 'It is important to have researched the wine; to know the character of the wine and how it should taste,' he told Decanter.com in 2017. 'If you were, for example, in the presence of a fragile wine, like an old vintage bottle, then I would not risk aerating it too much. I would probably open it in advance and try to find the right type of glass. 'Personally, I would recommend a Bordeaux glass rather than pouring it in to a decanter.' If decanting a wine, Robert said that he would allow it to sit in the decanter for around one hour, on average. Does it really make a difference to taste? You'll hear many wine critics talk about how a wine's character can change in the glass over time, and over several days once the bottle has been uncorked. Perhaps you have also noticed this yourself. As mentioned above, it is commonly asserted that aerating some wines - particularly bolder reds - can help to soften tannins and release fruit flavours. If your wine has mild reductive aromas like struck match or sulphur-like odours on opening - and you're not a fan - then allowing the wine to breathe can reduce their intensity, as Natasha Hughes MW writes. In 2016, an article in the Journal of Agricultural Chemistry found evidence that ethanol evaporates once a wine has been poured into the glass, slightly lowering the abv content. It said this was strongly influenced by exposure to air. As part of this process, the researchers noted that, 'Evaporation also resulted in decreases in the concentration of some fermentation volatiles and a perceptible change in wine aroma.' Professor Andrew Waterhouse, a wine chemist at UC Davis in California, wrote in Scientific American back in 2004 that 'a wine's aroma will change during the first 10 to 30 minutes the bottle is open'. He said that decanting accelerates the breathing process by encouraging volatile aromas to evaporate and emphasising fruit and oak aromas. However, he also said that decanting may not improve less complex wines designed for immediate consumption, while some white wines' fruit aromas could actually lose intensity. Others have argued that advances in winemaking mean that fewer wines require the sort of aeration that might have been considered beneficial in the past. Double decanting A main advantage of decanting wines, and especially older vintages, is that you won't get a glass full of sediment as you near the end of the bottle. However, some producers prefer to double decant younger wines, too, and particularly those that have high tannin levels. This involves pouring the wine into a decanter and then back into the bottle. 'It's good for the young vintages to do this, for more aeration,' said Pierre Graffeuille, director of Château Léoville Las Cases, at a masterclass of the St-Julien estate's wines held during Decanter's Bordeaux Fine Wine Encounter 2017. 'It's definitely better to double decant if you can - give it at least one hour,' he said. Fragile wines Be careful with older vintages, which can be much more sensitive once opened and may lose fruit aromas much more quickly. 'You could transform a great wine into vinegar by letting it breathe for too long,' said Clément Robert MS. 'Old vintages are the most fragile.' He added, 'Personally, I would not carafe or decant a Pinot Noir as I like the primary characters of the grape.' In the case of most white wines, Steven Spurrier said in 2016 that, 'because they don't have tannins, the need for aeration is rarely necessary. 'However, I would decant young and old white Rhônes and mature Alsace Rieslings - and both at the last minute.' Do try it at home Perhaps the best thing to do is conduct your own research, which may necessarily involve opening a bottle or two. Do you notice a difference in the wine depending upon how long it has been open, or sitting in a glass or decanter?