Chapter 1: The Nature of Fashion

fad

a fashion that suddenly sweeps into/out of popularity, affected a limited part of the total population, and then quickly disappears -never know how long it will last (diff to distinguish between fads and fashion, may start as fad but become fashion) (produced at lower price points, produced more because people take advantage, but people become tired quickly) (can becomes trends) popularity incr, acceptance dec, decline inc ex: gauchos, slap bracelets, multicolored hair, urban cowboy *when fad comes back it is fashion

trend

a general direction or movement 1. leading designers show certain fashion 2. leading retailers are buying 3. fashion-forward customers buy -has solid foundation which supports its growth magizines let pubic know what and where the trends are (can become classics)

high fashion

a new style accepted by a limited number of fashion leaders who want to be the first to adopt changes and innovation in fashion -usually too extreme for general public -generally reflects higher price point

style number

a number assigned to each individual design produced identifying it for manufacturing, ordering, and selling purposed -color, production date, manufacturing factory -have 4-5 digits (usually 5 for greater product variety) Ex: NIKE: 1st #= line of shoes 2nd= shoe category (men,women)

design

a particular or individual interpretation, version, or treatment of a style

consumer buying cycles (vs consumer use cycle)

USE cycle lasts longer (bought on sale and still wearing) -retailers are more profitable when they anticipate the rent rather than follow it (concentrate resources on new items)

merchandising

a comprehensive function, including market research, development of new products, coordination of manufacture and marketing, and effective advertising and seeling

classic

a style or design that satisfies a basic need and remains in general fashion acceptance/satisfy a basic need over/for an extended period of time -less likely to throw away -can layer and pair with other clothes -described by simple design that isn't easily outdated -ex: button down, denim, pearls, khakis

fashion

a style that is accepted and used by the majority of a group at any one time, no matter how small the group.

variations of the straight silhouette

a. slim b. rectangular c. wedge d. A-line

fashion businesses

all the industries and services connected with fashion: design, manufacturing, distribution, marketing, retailing, advertising, communications, publishing, consulting - any business concerned with fashion goods or services

fad VS flop VS seasonal staple

fad- quickly peak and decline flop- doesn't peak very high seasonal staple- fluctuate because you can't always buy them

1. introduction stage

fashion are introduced: -form of new style, color or texture -at high price points -small quantities "test period" to see if it takes off why market new style at a high price? -exclusivity -cost more money in terms of fashion promotion, higher prices accommodate for higher costs *fashion innovator-

change agents

fashion facilitates orderly change in mass society creates social bond when identity is fluid -sustaniailtyn -facebook -blgs and wesbites politics religion -leisure

1. group acceptance

fashion relies on group approval -individual vs belonging (varies depending on geographic, religious) -normative group: group you want to join or be apart of (job interview, rush) -comparative group :point of reference often what you don wan to look like

breaks in cycle

- shortage of oil and manufactured fibers(70-80s) oil supply and fiber popularity increase - widespread unemployment -war causes shortage, causes less fashion change or style restrictions (rations) -when fashion apparel is in a cycle real, what industry gains popularity cosmetics! (ex: lipsticks to add to style/outfit)

mass/volume fashion

-styles that are widely accepted -produced and sold in large quantities at moderate to low prices -appeal to the greatest majority of fashion conscious consumers -taking things from high fashion EX: forever 21 (lots of variety and sold at lower price) -related more to consumer

Misconceptions About Fashion

1. Designers and retailers dictate what the fashion will be and then force it upon helpless consumers 2. Fashion acts as an influence on women only. (men, teens have influence bc they operate on parents income vs college age spend less) 3. fashion is a mysterious and unpredictable force (trend forecasters, and other people who predict fashion)

principals of fashion: tangible

1. consumers establish fashions by accepting or rejecting the styles offered (designers create many styles, manufacturers choose what will be successful; reject more than select, retailers choose what their specific costumers want, consumers decide what will become a fashion) 2. fashions are NOT based on price. (just because something is expensive not not mean it will be successful) successful fashions can be found at every price level 3. fashions are evolutionary in nature; they are rarely revolutionary (change gradually from one season to the next; ex- shoulder widths and skirt lengths -designers adjust designs by keeping current fashion in mind, know that people can't buy completely new wardrobe every season) 4. no amount of sales promotion can change the direction in which fashions are moving -1960s: woman's liberation movement, wanted more relaxed look, rebelled against girdles and bras, started wearing panty hose instead -fashion promotion can't revive fading fashion (sales and markdowns) 5. all fashions end in excess: 18th century hoops skirts (french doors to walk straight through) mens ties (thin and widening ties) -when something becomes too wide and too big, goes back to beginning EX: engagement rings (and handbags) accessories change slower than apparel (slower pace) -little things to reflect taste and style of that period

4 color families

1. naturals: colors driven from sky, landscape or water 2. pastels: colors lightened w white 3. darks: tones and shades of color 4. brights: high intensity

4 elements of fashion design

1. silouhette 2. details 3. texture 4.

fashion industries

businesses that are engaged in manufacturing the materials and finished products used in the production of apparel and accessories for men, women, and children

adaptations

designs that have all the dominant features of the style that inspired them, but do not claim to be exact copies

miniature fashion (fad)

exists only for 1 season

fast fashion

importance of assortment rotation. strategy that keeps fashion fresh focused more on production -how fast they can develop then sell product

intangibles of fashion

incapable of being perceived by the sense of touch consumers want more change fashions change because ideas about politics, leisure and art change t-shirt remains the same, but people look for variation

2. Details

individual elements that define silhouette, give its form or shape a. trimming b. skirt and pant lengths, width c. shoulder waist, sleeve treatment

Fashion Cycle

inovation, culmination, decline

STYLE (level 1)

is a combination of silhouette, contraction, fabric and details that distinguish an object from other objects in the same category

4. color

key factor in apparel selection for both sexes why you purchase? color symbolism varies w geographic location is key in advertising, packing, store decor and communicating mood can convey warmth or coolness warmth: red, yellow orange cool: blue green violet

3. culmination stage

period when fashion is at the height of its popularity and use -fashion followers buy -mass produced, mass distributed and sold at prices within range of most customer can be prolonged **classics here**

5 R's of merchandising

right fashion-oriented merchandise, right time, right place, right quantities, right prices, right sales promotion for specific targeted consumers

1. silhouette

shape or form, overall outline or contour of a garment, basic shape Agnes Brooks Young (1930s) "fashion is not lawless but rather a process slow and continuous types" 3 basic groups: 1. bell-shaped 2. bustle 3. straight **

a mirror of times

social class reflect rigidity of class structure 19th century- constricted waists (western), bound feet (chinese) today: social class is fluid -1980s- punk rick and yuppies 1990s- hip hop and ralph lauren polo sport lifestyle after industrial revolution - new working class made less colorful and more functional clothes -more casual and active sportswear today

5. obsolesce stage

strong distaste for a style and can no longer be sold at any price point when total lack of interest for a style has set in and it can no longer be sold at any price sold in thrift shops and at garage sales

intangibles: change

successful designers sense and anticipate changes -late 1960s force the midi right in theory, wrong in timing late 1980s force the midi caused merchandisers to adjust the strategy of marketing to consumer and providing what THEY WANT gov can't force change (only effect fashion) WWII ration to fashion designer meet the demand for change: EX: dior new look- long full skirts, fitted waistlines, feminine curves (after WWII) -accelerate fashion (not change),.. promote at the right time

STYLE (level 2)

the characteristic or distinctive artistic expression or presentation (appearance of a garment - combination of features that make it different from other features)

3. texture

the look and feel of material (woven or non woven) can give appearance of silhouette: bulky or slender influences: drape and color bulky= larger physique chiffon vs corduroy

taste

the prevailing opinion of what is and what is not stylish and appropriate for a given occasion -placed on you by society TIMING is KEY GOOD TASTE: at the right time, by the right people (black to funeral)

fashion cycle

the rise, wide popularity, and subsequent design in acceptance of style. fashion is a bell curve.

marketing

this process includes many different activities that identify consumer needs; develop good products; and price, distribute, and promote them effectively so that they will sell easily

knockoffs

versions of the original designer style duplicated by manufacturers

4. decline stage

when boredom with a fashion sets in, the result is a decrease in consumer demand for that fashion -still wearing but buying at lower price -markdowns and clearances appear -production stops -usually ends in excess

2. rise stage

when the new original design is accepted by an increasing number of customers -acceptance -maximum quantity ordered -knockoffs(exact duplicates) and adaptations appear acceleration fashion leaders (buy in better department stores) the next new fashion may be introduced by a producer in the form of a new style, color, or texture.

STYLE (level 3)

will always remain a style whether currently in fashion or not.