Chapter 15 Chemical Texture Services Vocab
Metal hydroxide relaxers
Ionic compunds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen
Double flat wrap
Prem wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one paper over, the strand of hair being wrapped
Single flat wrap
Prem wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped
Low-pH waves
Prems that work at a low pH and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thiogycolate
Lanthionization
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; lanthionization breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair
Chemical hair relaxing
Process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form
Neutralization
Process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening the hair in its new form by the application of a chemical solution called the neutralizer
No-base relaxers
Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base
Base relaxers
Relaxers that require the application of base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
Thio relaxers
Relaxers that usually have a pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than is used in permanent waving
Hydroxide relaxers
Relaxers with a very high pH, sometimes over 13
Endothermic waves
Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer
Straight rods
Perm rods that are equal in circumferencxe along their entir length or curling area
Concave rods
Perm rods that have a smaller circumference in the center that increases to a larger circumference on the ends
Exothermic waves
Perm that creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing
Thio-free waves
Perm that uses an ingredient other than ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent
Acid balanced waves
Perm with a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 that process at room temperature and do not require the added heat of a hair dryer; process more quickly and produce firmer curls that true acid waves
Spiral perm technique
Perm wrap done at an angle that causes the hair to spiral along the length of the tool; particularly effective on longer, thicker hair
Basic perm wrap
Perm wrap in which all tools within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm tool
Bookend wrap
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope
Curative perm wrap
Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
Double tool (piggyback) technique
Perm wrap in which two tools are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other
Bricklay perm wrap
Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from eachother row by row
Alkaline waves or cold waves
Permanent waves that process at room temperature without the addition of heat; most alkaline waves have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6
Croquignole perms
Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp, in overlapping layers
True acid
Perms that have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to speeed processing; process more slowly that alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl
Ammonia free waves
Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use
Disulfide bonds
Side bonds between the polypeptide chains in the cortex; join cysteine sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with cysteine sulfur atoms on neighboring polypeptide chains to form cystine, the oxidized form of systein
Base control
The position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Weave technique
Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
Base sections
Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one tool is normally placed on each base section
Thioglycolic acid
Colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions
Soft curl permanents
Combination of thio relaxers and thio permanents that are wrapped on large tools; used to make existing curl larger and looser
Base direction
The angle at which the tool is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped
End papers or end wraps
Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm tools
Polypeptide chains
Amino acid chains joined together by peptide bonds
Off-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section and the tool is positioned completely off its base section
On-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section and the tool is positioned on its base section
Half-off-base placement
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees (perpendicular) to its base section and the tool is positioned half off its base section
Peptide or end bonds
Chemical bonds that join amino acids together
Normalizing solutions
Conditioners with an acidic pH that condition the hair and restore the natural pH prior to shampooing
Chemical texture services
Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair
Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions that effectively reduces the pH
Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
Main actuve ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Base cream
Oily cream used to protect the skin ans scalp during hair relaxing
Salt bonds
Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; are easily broken by changes in pH, as in permenent waving, and re-form when the pH returns to normal
Hydrogen bonds
Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools