Chapter 15 Chemical Texture Services Vocab

Metal hydroxide relaxers

Ionic compunds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen

Double flat wrap

Prem wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one paper over, the strand of hair being wrapped

Single flat wrap

Prem wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped

Low-pH waves

Prems that work at a low pH and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thiogycolate

Lanthionization

Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; lanthionization breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair

Chemical hair relaxing

Process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight form

Neutralization

Process of stopping the action of a permanent wave solution and hardening the hair in its new form by the application of a chemical solution called the neutralizer

No-base relaxers

Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base

Base relaxers

Relaxers that require the application of base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer

Thio relaxers

Relaxers that usually have a pH above 10 and a higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than is used in permanent waving

Hydroxide relaxers

Relaxers with a very high pH, sometimes over 13

Endothermic waves

Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer

Straight rods

Perm rods that are equal in circumferencxe along their entir length or curling area

Concave rods

Perm rods that have a smaller circumference in the center that increases to a larger circumference on the ends

Exothermic waves

Perm that creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing

Thio-free waves

Perm that uses an ingredient other than ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent

Acid balanced waves

Perm with a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 that process at room temperature and do not require the added heat of a hair dryer; process more quickly and produce firmer curls that true acid waves

Spiral perm technique

Perm wrap done at an angle that causes the hair to spiral along the length of the tool; particularly effective on longer, thicker hair

Basic perm wrap

Perm wrap in which all tools within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm tool

Bookend wrap

Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope

Curative perm wrap

Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

Double tool (piggyback) technique

Perm wrap in which two tools are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other

Bricklay perm wrap

Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from eachother row by row

Alkaline waves or cold waves

Permanent waves that process at room temperature without the addition of heat; most alkaline waves have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6

Croquignole perms

Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp, in overlapping layers

True acid

Perms that have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to speeed processing; process more slowly that alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl

Ammonia free waves

Perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use

Disulfide bonds

Side bonds between the polypeptide chains in the cortex; join cysteine sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with cysteine sulfur atoms on neighboring polypeptide chains to form cystine, the oxidized form of systein

Base control

The position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

Weave technique

Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas

Base sections

Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one tool is normally placed on each base section

Thioglycolic acid

Colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions

Soft curl permanents

Combination of thio relaxers and thio permanents that are wrapped on large tools; used to make existing curl larger and looser

Base direction

The angle at which the tool is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped

End papers or end wraps

Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm tools

Polypeptide chains

Amino acid chains joined together by peptide bonds

Off-base placement

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section and the tool is positioned completely off its base section

On-base placement

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section and the tool is positioned on its base section

Half-off-base placement

Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees (perpendicular) to its base section and the tool is positioned half off its base section

Peptide or end bonds

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together

Normalizing solutions

Conditioners with an acidic pH that condition the hair and restore the natural pH prior to shampooing

Chemical texture services

Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair

Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)

Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions that effectively reduces the pH

Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)

Main actuve ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents

Base cream

Oily cream used to protect the skin ans scalp during hair relaxing

Salt bonds

Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; are easily broken by changes in pH, as in permenent waving, and re-form when the pH returns to normal

Hydrogen bonds

Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools