Chapter 18-3 - Ocean Waves and Tides

high tide

crest of giant wave approaching shore, high sea level

tidal range

difference between ocean level at high and low tides

wind transfers __ to water

energy

as a wave passes by, only ___ moves forward; the _____ remain in about the same place

energy, water molecules

____ with the ocean bottom slows water at the bottom of the wave in shallow areas

friction

amplitude

half the distance of the wave height. amplitude squared is the amount of energy that a wave carries

water movement stops below .....

half the wavelength

crest

highest point of a wave

wavelength

horizontal distance between crests or between troughs of two adjacent waves

the high tide on the opposite side of earth occurs due to an _______ that causes water to be pulled away from the moon

imbalance of forces

trough

lowest point of a wave

wave

rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space

tides

rise and fall of sea level caused by a giant wave produced by the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon

high and low tides occur at the _____ in _____

same time, different locations

wave height depends on wind ___, ___ over which wind blows, and ____ the wind blows

speed, distance, length of time

tidal bore

when a rising tide enters a shallow, narrow river from a wide area of the sea, tidal bore is the wave it forms

breaker

collapsing wave

neap tides

when there is a 1st quarter or 3rd quarter moon. lower high tides and higher low tides because the sun weakens the moons gravitational pull

spring tides

when there is a new or full moon and spring tides have the largest difference in high and low tides because at this time the sun is increasing the gravitational pull along with the moon

water waves form when ______ across a body of water

wind blows

___ of a breaker wave moves faster than the ___, causing it to ____

top, bottom, collapse

low tide

trough of giant wave approaching shore, low sea level

wave height

vertical distance between crest and trough

Tides have wave heights of about ____ but wavelengths of _______

1-2 meters, thousands of kilometers