Chapter 19 Haircoloring

Secondary Color

Color ovtained by mixing equal parts if two primary colors.

Tone

Also called hue of color; the balance of color.

Demipermanent Haircolor

Also called no-lift, deposit-only color. Formulated to deposit, but not life (lighten) natural hair color. Demipermanent colors are able to deposit without lifting because they are less alkaline than permanent colors and are mixed with a low-volume developer.

Special Effects Haircoloring

Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring.

Resistant

Characteristics of some hair types that make penetration by moisture or chemicals difficult.

Lightner

Chemical compounds thjat lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment,

Hair Lightening

Chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called "bleaching" or "decolorizing"

Slicing

Color technique that involves taking a narrow, 1/8-inch (0.3-centimeter) section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, postioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightner or colr.

Highlighting

Coloring some of the hair stands lighter that the natural color to add the illusion of sheen and depth; highlights do not generally contrast strongly with the natural color.

Weaving

Coloring technique in whuich slected strands are picked up from a narrow section of the hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightner or color is applied only these strands.

Double-Process Application

Coloring technique requiring two seperate procedures in which the hair is prelightnened before the deposting color is applied; also called two-step coloring.

Natural or Vegetable Haircolors

Colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants.

Soap Cap

Combination of equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo applied to the hair like a regualr shampoo.

Aniline Derivatives

Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex.

Color Fillers

Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair.

Prelightening

First step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment vefore the applicaton of toner

Virgin Application

First time that hair is colored.

Metallic or Gradual Colors

Haircolors containing metal salts thaty change the hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull, metallic apperance.

Highlighting Shampoo

Mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide; used to slightly lighten or natural hair color

Foil Technique

Highlighthimg technique that involves coloring selected strands of hair bu slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightner or permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap

Fillers

Used to equalize porosity

Conditioner Fillers

Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair, and equalize porosity so that the hair accept sthe color evenly from strand to strand and scalp to ends.

Tertiary Color

Intermediate color schieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring promary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.

Permanent Haircolors

Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in one application, Thay are more alkaline than no lift deposit only haircolors and mixed with a higher volume developer.

Cap Technique

Lightening technique that involves pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook

Level

Lightness or darkness of a color. refers to the saturation, concentration, or density of a color. Answers the qustion, how m uch color?

Volume

Measure of varying strengths (concentration) of hydrogen peroxide; the higher the volume, the greatrer the lifting action.

Contributing Pigments

Natural hair color that remains in the hair when the natural color is lightened; must be taken in to consideration when haircolor is selected. Also called undertone.

Semipermanent Haircolor

No-lift, deposit-only, nonoxidation haircolor that is not mixed witg peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos.

Temporary Haircolor

Nonpermanent color whhose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layerm allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing.

On-The-Scalp Lightners

Oil and cream lightners that can be used directly on the scalp.

Developer

Oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necesary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color.

Baliage or free form technique

Painting a lightner (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightner) directly onto clean, styled hair

New Growth

Part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored,

Off-The-Scalp Lightners

Powdered lightners that cannot be used directly on the scalp.

Activators

Powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase it lightening ability.

Base Color

Predominant tone of a color.

Complemtary Colors

Primary and secondary color combinations that are directly opposite from each other on the color wheel

Presoftening

Process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color.

Singlw-Process Haircoloring

Process that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application.

Haircolor

Professional, salon industry term referring to artificial hairlcolor products and services.

Primary Colors

Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combing other colors/

Tiners

Semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primaryily on prelightned hair to achieve pale or delicate colors/

Law of Color

System for understanding color relationships.

Level System

System that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair colr.

Reverse Highlighting or Lowlighting

Technique or coloring strand of the hair darker than the natural colr.

Patch Test

Test for identifying a possible allergy in a client, required by the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. Also called predispostion test.

Line of Demarcation

Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.

Glaze

A nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair.

Oxidation

A process by which oxygen is released, occurs within the cortec of the hair shaft.

Hair Color

The natural color of hair