Chapter 25 Section 2 and 3 earth science
rip currents
___ _________ form when water from large breakers returns to the ocean through channels that cut through underwater sandbars that are parallel to the beach.
longhsore currents
______ ________ form when waves approach the beach at an angle
low tides
_______ _____form halfway between two high tides. _____ _____ form because as ocean water flows toward areas of high tide
tidal patterns
__________ ______ are greatly influenced by the size, shape, depth, and locations of the ocean basin in which the tides occur
breaker
a foamy mass of water that washes onto the coastline
wave
a periodic disturbance in a solid, liquid or gas as energy is transmitted trough a medium.
atlantic coast
along the _____ of the US two high tides a s two low tides occur each day and have fairly regular tidal range
gulf of mexico
along the shore of the ______ however only one high tide and one low tide can occur each day
neap tides
as a result, the daily tidal range is small, Tides that occur during this time are called ______ ______
first and third
during the ______ and ______ quarter phases of the moon, the moon and the sun are at right angles to each other in relation to earth
earth, sun, and moon
during the new moon and full moon the ______,_______, and _______ are aligned.
spring tides
during these two monthly periods , the tides are called _____ _______
tsunami
giant seismic ocean waves
sand
great quantities of ____ are carried by longshore currents
wave length
horizontal distance between two consecutive troughs
coastline
in shallow water near the _____ the bottom of the wave touches the ocean floor
trough
the ___ is the lowest points between two crests.
sun
the ____ gravitational pull can strengthen or weaken the moons influence on tides
Crest
the _______ is the highest point of the wave
gravitational
the combined _______ pull of the sun and the moon results in higher high tides and lower low tides
tidal range
the difference in levels of ocean water at high tide and low tide
fetch
the distance the wind blows across an area of the sea to generate waves
sun
the gravitational effects of the moon and to a lesser extent, the ____ causes tides
coastline
the height of a wave changes as the wave approaches a ____
tidal current
the movement of water toward and away from the flags as a result of the rise and fall of the tides
bulges
the ocean on earths near side _________ slightly which causes a high tide within the area of the _________
tides
the periodic rise and fall of the water level in the oceans and other large bodies of water
refraction
the process by which ocean waves bend directly toward the coastline as they approach shallow water
tidal oscillation
the slow rocking motion of ocean water that occurs as the tidal bulges move around the ocean basins
sandbars
these sand deposits form low ridges of sand called ________
wind speed, length of the time the wimd blows, and fetch
these three factors determine the size of the waves.
wave period
time required for two consecutive wave crests to pass a given point
energy
tsunami has a tremendous amount of _____
tidal waves
tsunamis are commonly called ________ _____
wave height
vertical distance between the crest and trough of the wave
undertow
water carried onto a beach by breaking waves is pulled back into a deeper water by gravity. This motion forms an irregular current called an ______
ebb tide
when the tidal current flows toward the ocean
low tide
when the water level is the lowest
slack water
when there are no tidal currents the time period between flood tide and ebb tide is called _________
flood tide
when tidal currents flow towards the coast
high tide
when water level is the highest
whitecaps
when winds blow the crest of a wave off