Chapter 25 Section 2 and 3 earth science

rip currents

___ _________ form when water from large breakers returns to the ocean through channels that cut through underwater sandbars that are parallel to the beach.

longhsore currents

______ ________ form when waves approach the beach at an angle

low tides

_______ _____form halfway between two high tides. _____ _____ form because as ocean water flows toward areas of high tide

tidal patterns

__________ ______ are greatly influenced by the size, shape, depth, and locations of the ocean basin in which the tides occur

breaker

a foamy mass of water that washes onto the coastline

wave

a periodic disturbance in a solid, liquid or gas as energy is transmitted trough a medium.

atlantic coast

along the _____ of the US two high tides a s two low tides occur each day and have fairly regular tidal range

gulf of mexico

along the shore of the ______ however only one high tide and one low tide can occur each day

neap tides

as a result, the daily tidal range is small, Tides that occur during this time are called ______ ______

first and third

during the ______ and ______ quarter phases of the moon, the moon and the sun are at right angles to each other in relation to earth

earth, sun, and moon

during the new moon and full moon the ______,_______, and _______ are aligned.

spring tides

during these two monthly periods , the tides are called _____ _______

tsunami

giant seismic ocean waves

sand

great quantities of ____ are carried by longshore currents

wave length

horizontal distance between two consecutive troughs

coastline

in shallow water near the _____ the bottom of the wave touches the ocean floor

trough

the ___ is the lowest points between two crests.

sun

the ____ gravitational pull can strengthen or weaken the moons influence on tides

Crest

the _______ is the highest point of the wave

gravitational

the combined _______ pull of the sun and the moon results in higher high tides and lower low tides

tidal range

the difference in levels of ocean water at high tide and low tide

fetch

the distance the wind blows across an area of the sea to generate waves

sun

the gravitational effects of the moon and to a lesser extent, the ____ causes tides

coastline

the height of a wave changes as the wave approaches a ____

tidal current

the movement of water toward and away from the flags as a result of the rise and fall of the tides

bulges

the ocean on earths near side _________ slightly which causes a high tide within the area of the _________

tides

the periodic rise and fall of the water level in the oceans and other large bodies of water

refraction

the process by which ocean waves bend directly toward the coastline as they approach shallow water

tidal oscillation

the slow rocking motion of ocean water that occurs as the tidal bulges move around the ocean basins

sandbars

these sand deposits form low ridges of sand called ________

wind speed, length of the time the wimd blows, and fetch

these three factors determine the size of the waves.

wave period

time required for two consecutive wave crests to pass a given point

energy

tsunami has a tremendous amount of _____

tidal waves

tsunamis are commonly called ________ _____

wave height

vertical distance between the crest and trough of the wave

undertow

water carried onto a beach by breaking waves is pulled back into a deeper water by gravity. This motion forms an irregular current called an ______

ebb tide

when the tidal current flows toward the ocean

low tide

when the water level is the lowest

slack water

when there are no tidal currents the time period between flood tide and ebb tide is called _________

flood tide

when tidal currents flow towards the coast

high tide

when water level is the highest

whitecaps

when winds blow the crest of a wave off