Cosmetology II - How to Use Lighteners

To avoid affecting untreated hair when using a toner on highlighted hair, choose from the following options

1. A nonoxidative toner, which contains no ammonia, requires no developer (thus producing no lift of the natural hair color) and is gentle on the scalp and hair. 2. Semipermanent color may be used to deposit color without lift. Select a color that is delicate enough to avoid overpowering the prelightened hair. Always check the manufacturer's color chart to make sure that the combination of your chosen toner and the contributing pigment will produce the desired color results. 3. A demipermanent haircolor may also be used to deposit color. It will not cause additional lightening and lasts longer than temporary or traditional semipermanent colors.

What color should natural highlights be in a brunette?

deep or caramel colored

A common problem with red haircolor is...

fading

Which of the following can be used to correct undesired yellow?

gold-based colors

Uneven contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair

hair color

_________________ are powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability.

Activators

How do you select the right color filler to fix an unwanted haircolor?

Always use the primary or secondary color that is missing in the hair

The ___________________ or ____________________ technique involves the painting of a lightener directly onto clean, styled hair.

Baliage or free-form technique

Your client's hair is about 90 percent gray. Which color range would be most flattering?

Blonde

The ___________________ of highlighting involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, and then combing to remove tangles.

Cap technique

Name the three most frequently used techniques for achieving highlights.

Cap technique Foil technique Baliage or free-form technique

___________________ fillers are used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity.

Color

Uneven contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair

Color filler

___________________ fillers are used to recondition damaged, overly porosity.

Conditioner

The two main types of fillers are...

Conditioner fillers and color fillers

The __________________ pigment is the color that remains in the hair after lightening.

Contributing

Name four different patterns in which foil can be placed in the hair.

Face-frame Half-head three-quarter head full-head foiling patterns

Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth is called...

Fashion technique

_____________________ are used to equalize porosity.

Fillers

The _____________________________ of highlighting involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent color, and sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap for processing.

Foil technique

Drab red when a hot fiery red is desired

(R, RR, RV)

___________________ are prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo.

Highlighting shampoo

What considerations should be taken into account when formulating haircolor for gray hair?

A. Client's personality B. Personal preferences C. Amount of gray hair and its location on the head

List the features of cream lighteners.

A. Conditioning agents give some protection to the hair and scalp. B. Thickeners give more control during application. C. Because cream lighteners do not run or drip, overlapping is prevented during retouching services. Cream lighteners may be mixed with activators in the form of dry crystals.

List the rules for effective color correction.

A. Do not panic. Remain calm. B. Determine the nature of the problem. C. Determine what caused the problem. D. Develop a solution. E. Always take one step at a time. F. Never guarantee an exact result. G. Always strand test for accuracy.

List the tips for working with gray hair.

A. Formulate at a Level 7 medium-blond and deeper for best gray coverage. B. Use 20-volume developer. C. Process color for a full forty-five minutes. D. Add neutral tones to the formula. E. If 25 percent gray is present, use 25 percent neutral or natural tones in formula. F. If 50 percent gray is present, use 50 percent neutral or natural tones in formula. G. If 75 percent gray is present, use 75 percent neutral or natural tones in formula.

List the hair coloring safety precautions.

A. Perform a patch test twenty-four to forty-eight hours prior to each application of aniline-derivative haircolor. Apply haircolor only if the patch test is negative. B. Do not apply haircolor if abrasions are present on the scalp. C. Do not apply haircolor if a metallic or compound haircolor is present. D. Do not brush the hair prior to applying color. E. Always read and follow the manufacturer's directions. F. Use cleaned and disinfected applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels. G. Protect your client's clothing with proper draping. H. Perform a strand test for color, breakage, and/or discoloration. I. Use an applicator bottle or bowl (glass or plastic) for mixing the haircolor. J. Do not mix haircolor until you are ready to use it; discard leftover haircolor. K. Wear gloves to protect your hands. L. Do not permit the color to come in contact with the client's eyes. M. Do not overlap during a haircolor retouch. N. Use a mild shampoo. An alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip color. O. Always wash hands before and after serving a client.

What are the characteristics of damaged hair?

A. Rough texture B. Over porous condition C. Brittle and dry to the touch D. Susceptible to breakage E. No elasticity F. Becomes spongy and matted when wet G. Color fades too quickly or grabs too dark

What can cause gray hair to have a yellow cast?

A. Smoking B. Medication C. Sun exposure D. Hair sprays and styling aids

When dealing with damaged hair, what 5 things should you do?

A. Use a penetrating conditioner that can deposit protein, oils, and moisture-rich ingredients. B. Complete each chemical service by normalizing the pH with an acidic finishing rinse. This will restore the ability of the cuticle to protect the hair. C. Postpone any further chemical service until the hair is reconditioned. D. Schedule the client for between-service conditioning. E. Recommend retail home-care products that will help prepare the hair for the next service.

Brown hair with orange or brassy tones

To avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color, always use a cool blue base. To avoid unwanted brassy tones, do not lighten more than two levels above the natural color.

What is the best way to achieve pale blonde results?

Level 6 dark blond and deeper

When performing a lightener retouch, what part of the hair should you lighten first?

New growth

Will colors at a level 8 or lighter likely give complete gray coverage?

No

Do you need to perform a patch test before using a highlighting shampoo?

No patch test is necessary

What type of product is often used as a toner?

No-lift demipermanent

The _____________________ of strands pulled through the perforated cap determines the amount of hair that will be highlighted or lowlighted.

Number of strands

What are the three forms of lightener?

Oil, cream, and powder

New technology has created powder lighteners that can also be used directly on what?

On the scalp

Oil and cream lighteners are _________________, which can be used directly on the scalp.

On-the-scalp lighteners

Toners are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve _________________ colors.

Pale, delicate

What is new growth?

Part of the shaft that is not previously colored

_________________ are strong, fast-acting lightners in powdered form.

Powder lighteners

_________________ raises the cuticle layer of gray or resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color.

Pre-softning

To determine the processing time, the condition of the hair after lightening, and the end results, you should perform a...

Preliminary strand test

__________________ lighteners are strong enough for high-lift blonding, but gentle enough to be used on the scalp.

Quick

When dealing with damaged hair, what should occur in conjunction to the chemical service?

Reconditioning service

Coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color is called...

Reverse highlighting or low lighting

What will occur if lighteners are overlapped during a retouch?

Severe breakage and line discrimination

_____________________ involves taking a narrow, 1/8 inch _________________ section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color.

Slicing and 0.3 centimeters

40 percent of undesired gray hair

add ½ ounce to 1 ounce of a neutral color to the desired red.

Special effects haircoloring refers to any technique that involves....

any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring

What does an activator do/

are used in powdered off-the-scalp hair lighteners

Hair will not hold a final color

color filler

Unequal porosity

color filler

____________________ equalize porosity and deposit hair in one application.

color fillers

Excessive heat used with hair lighteners will do what to hair?

lift and crack the cuticle and break bonds within the cortex

What might give hair a green cast?

metallic colors

Dull, faded color

mix a demipermanent haircolor in the same tonal family as the haircolor formula.

What is the appropriate solution for damaged hair?

receive reconditioning treatments

As a general rule, the paler the color you are seeking...

the lighter the contributing pigment needs to be

A skilled colorist will occasionally have a problem in haircolor that can't be predicted. This may be due to...

the particular structure or condition of the client's hair

When should you use a highlighting shampoo?

when a slight change in hair shade is desired, or when the client's hair processes very rapidly

Green cast and unwanted color

you may want to purify the hair with a product designed to remove the mineral buildup. You can apply a demipermanent color to neutralize any unwanted color that remains in the hair.

Lowlights that have become too blond or all one color

A great lowlight formula using a demipermanent color is 1½ ounces 8N with ½ ounce of 6G. You can also add all-over warmth to the end result with a glaze of 10RO applied all over the hair for five minutes. This will add a sunshine look to the hair

Name the five factors that affect processing time for lighteners.

The darker the natural hair color, the more melanin it has. The more melanin it has, the longer it takes to lighten the color. The amount of time needed to lighten the natural color is also influenced by the hair's porosity. Porous hair of the same color level will lighten faster than hair that is nonporous, because the lightening agent can enter the cortex more rapidly. Tone influences the length of time necessary to lighten the natural hair color. The greater the percentage of red reflected in the natural color, the more difficult it is to achieve the delicate shades of a pale blond. Ash blonds are especially difficult to achieve because the melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both the level and tone of the hair. The strength of the lightening product affects the speed and amount of lightening. Stronger lighteners produce pale shades in the fastest time. Heat leads to faster lightening. But the stages of lightening must be carefully observed to avoid excessive lift. Excess lift could diffuse so much natural pigment that the toner may not produce the desired color. When this occurs, the toner may absorb too much color or grab, giving the hair an unwanted ashy, cool tone.

In _____________________, selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to these strands.

Weaving

Why should most powdered lighteners not be used for retouch services?

They cannot be directly on the scalp

Why are on-the-scalp lighteners popular?

They're thickener and give more control during application

Why is it not advisable to pre-lighten past the pale-yellow stage?

This will create overly porous hair that will not have enough natural pigment left to create the desired effect