FASH213 exam2

-Tennis became very popular during the thirties. Lacoste designed the alligator motif for his famous short sleeved shirt -New elastic yarns made swimwear cling to body and not lose shape when wet. It allowed for form fitting swim suits

Body and Health Consciousness

Short, waist length jacket with curved lower edge, with or without sleeves, often decorated with braid or other trim

Bolero (spanish)

a sash or band worn around the waist

Cummerbund (india)

Velcro (1948) Acrylic (1950) Polyester (1951) Lycra Spandex (1959)

Man made manufactured fibers

large oblong, fine, lace veil, usually in rose pattern of black or white, worn wrapped over head and crossed under chin with one end thrown over the shoulder- Spain and South America

Mantilla (spanish)

A waist cinch or a long line brassiere, makes the waist look smaller

Merry Widow

o Fitted bodice with accentuated bust, soft curved shoulder, tight waist, full mid calf to ankle length skirt o Same except pencil slim skirt with back vent or pleat

Silhouettes that dominated the late 40s-50s

o An exaggerated version of Edwardian styles- long jackets, wide padded shoulders, waistcoats, and narrow trousers o Teddy Boy Phenomenon: First outfit to be promoted by the young for the young o It was the first fashion to begin among the lower classes (trickle up) o It was the first fashion to be the outward evidence of a lifestyle cult

Teddy Boy

oThe 1930s are mainly remembered for the Great Depression which began with the collapse of the stock market, consisted of mass unemployment, famine, and the "Dust Bowl" oBread lines and soup kitchens were common sights oEven though many retained wealth, it would have been tasteless to show it. After the vulgar ostentation of the 20s styles became more elegant and restrained

The Great Depression

The monastic dress had a flowing robe like design that the wearer shaped to her own waistline with a belt. It was so popular that defending it against knock offs and counterfeiting put Townley out of business

the Monastic Dress

-extremely popular in the 20s & 30s -Used in details in 20s: cuffs, collars, in shoes, full coats rare -Fashion to have a pet leopard -Gained popularity in 30s, used in coats and used to decorate interiors -One wore leopard to make an impact

Leopard

fabric used by Schiaparelli

"Safari Silk"

o Balmain originally studied architecture, but his true interest was fashion. He got his start working for the fashion designer Edward Molyneux, for whom he worked from 1934 until 1939. He joined Lucien Lelong after WW2 and opened his own fashion house in 1945 o Balmain's couture house showcased long bell shaped skirts with small waists- a line which later became popular as Dior's New Look. In 1951 he opened branches in the US selling RTW clothes. During the 1950s, Balmain popularized the stole for day as well as evening wear and created a vogue for sheath dresses beneath jackets, His talented as a designer lay in his ability to make simple, tailored suits as well as grand evening gowns, all with the same aesthetic of slender elegant lines

Balmain

o Process receives its name from "bandha and bandhana" the Sanskrit words for dyeing o Bandhani is the name for both the technique used and the finished product o It is a highly developed complex method of patterning cloth by tie resist dyeing

Bandhani

The Beatnik or Beats scoffed at materialistic narcissism (at least publicly). The Beats were seen as anthropologists of the underworld and signaled their alienness by not presenting an alternative style but an indifference to style itself. However, the original Beats, like Jack Kerouac, did not wear black not did they sport goatees and berets. The popular beat style we know today comes from Paris in Left Bank in the sixties when young Parisians were inspired by the African American bebop musicians that came to play there

Beatniks

Meaning "a drop, small particle, or dot" is a forehead decoration, traditionally a dot of red color is applied at the center of the forehead close to the eyebrows

Bindi

riding pants with side fullness at thigh and tight from knee to ankle. Similar to men's breeches worn in India

Jodhpurs (india)

A Spanish born designer, Balenciaga was an established designer in Spain, but moved to Paris in 1936 because of the Spanish civil war. His couture house in Paris was open from 1937 to 1968 He was a huge perfectionist. His designs were timeless, simple with tailored (architectural) silhouettes

Cristobal Balenciaga

brand name of shirt jacket styled after the guayabera

Cubaverra (caribbean/latin american)

It was the era of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. Big bands and ballroom dancing were very popular. Several dances got their start in Harlem, including the Lindy Hop and the Big Apple (forerunner of the Jitterbug). Dancing was unrestrained and acrobatic. Required different clothing where men wore loose trousers, and women wore sweaters and short flared or pleated skirts

Dance

Revolutionized undergarments, providing lighter weight garments with good control and greater comfort than the corsets of earlier decades

Development of Nylon and Elastic Yarn

Special finishes made clothing easy care, called them "wash and ware" or later "permanent press"

Development of Polyester and Acrylics

-Her designs typify the style of the 1920s. She was also the leading designer through 1930s -She closed her design house when WW2 broke out -1931 Chanel was asked to design costumes for MGM- paid $1 million

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

Instead of the sari, some Indian women wear a form of pleated skirt. This skirt is secured at the waist and leaves the back and midriff bare. The women cover their heads with a length of fine cotton known as dupatta

Ghagra

only seen in 20s

Giraffe

boxy, short sleeved, lightweight shirt with large pockets and pleats. Worn outside pants

Guabera (caribbean/latin american)

women's calf length, wide pants of Spanish origin (Argentina)

Guacho (spanish)

Later in the forties, after the war, a new experimental and strangely innovative music began to emerge called bebop. Its natural habitat in the small jazz clubs of NYC, the center being Harlem. Bebop only required a handful of musicians which was ideal for the improvisation which lay at the heart of bebop. Bebop musicians were typically male and wore double breasted suits which were skintight compared to the earlier zoot suits. They wore many eclectic accessories like scarves tied around the neck, cosmic shades, and berets. This style proclaimed that a bebop musician was "one hip cat"

Hipsters

-Hairstyles and garments created in Hollywood had an immediate effect world wide -Fashion Designers who designated for film -Backless evening gowns with halter necks became the height of fashion

Hollywood

-the main purpose of these regulations was to freeze the silhouette -Wool, silk, rubber, leather, nylon were all needed for the war effort -Men's clothing was restricted to single breasted, two piece suits (no vest). Pants were without cuffs and pleats. Only one pair of pants was sold with a suit instead of two as previously was the norm -For Women's clothing made of wool, or any other fiber necessary for the war effort, these limitations were in place: skirts were limited to 72 inches in circumference (sweep). Hem depths were limited to 2 inches. Jackets were to be no longer than 25 inches. On blouses, there could be no turned back cuffs, couple yokes, sashes, scarves, or hoods. A variety of sleeve styles were prohibited.

L-85

Salwar are loose pajama like pants worn in South and Central Asia, especially in India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Afghanistan. The legs are wide at the top, and narrow at the ankle. The kameez is a long shirt or tunic, often with a western style collar. The side seams are left open below the waist line, give the wearer greater freedom of movement

Salwar Kameez

A sari is a rectangular piece of cloth five to nine yards in length. The style, color, and texture of this cloth varies and it might be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fiber fabrics

Sari

1. Longitudinal borders usually extend the full length of the field 2. End piece section which is draped over the shoulder. Often highly decorated 3. Field is the less decorated area in the middle of the length of fabric

Sari Design Structure

o Tear dress o Shoe hat o Lobster dress

Schiaparelli's Surrealist Designs

A wrap worn over the shoulders and sometimes draped over the head. Worn in Kashmir, Persia, India. From the Hindu word "shal"

Shawl (india)

o Shisha is the Indian word for mirror, more commonly known as mirror work o In this process, miniature gold and silver mirrors are stitched onto a garment o Many poor women of the middle east use the mirrors and colorful threads to imitate ornate fabrics of the wealthy

Shisha

o Service men returning from war found it difficult adapting to post war American which has become a nation of conformity with suburbia and the ideal of the "standard" life. These men picked up motorbikes and clustered in tightly knit gangs. They set out to challenge every aspect of conformity and succeeded o Bikers defied convention by dressing in rugged working class garments to give a rough and ready to look to convey the harsh experiences on the road. Bikers took the leather jacket look from their formal military years when men like Patton and MacArthur wore them

The Biker Look

-The "Bar" suit was one of the most popular models in Dior's first collection, which he called La Ligne Corolle. The press dubbed it the "New Look" and the name endured -Dior (1905-1957) took the softer feminine shape- round, sloping shoulder line, narrow waist, and spreading skirts- to the extreme. Despite official complaints It was a resounding success. Harper's Bazaar published detailed line drawings of the New Look's construction, and 'Bar' was also illustrated in Vogue and L'Official

The New Look's Bar Suit

-Paris fell to the German's in June 1941. Parisian courtiers never experienced war time shortages that those in England or the US did. The coupon system was introduced, but couture houses were not included. They instead developed flamboyant fashions in defiance of German restrictions -Gradually, price increases caused clothes to be more difficult to obtain. In the UK, the demand for uniforms caused fabric shortages. The industry had to be regulated so that valuable labor and factory space was dedicated to war production -The utility scheme was introduced in the UK. It controlled half, then 85% of fabric production also fixed the price, quality and color. Only monochrome colors were used. Clothes rationing began on June 1941. It was originally 66 coupons/year and was later reduced to 36. -Coupon costs for clothing

WW2

used in all kinds of garments

Zebra

-Initially an African American youth fashion, zoot suits were closely connected to jazz culture. The zoot suit was co opted by a generation of Mexican American kids, who made it their own. The oversized suit was both an outrageous style and a statement of defiance. Zoot suitors asserted themselves. At a time when fabric was being rationed for the war effort, they faced widespread discrimination -One of the first styles that originated in the lower income groups and adopted by some ethnic groups was the Zoot Suit

Zoot Suits

A new American style emerged with its emphasis on casual, interchangeable separates that could easily produced with the new manufacturing methods.

The American Look

slip on shoe of woven fabric rope sole (like toms)

Espadrilles (spanish)

Berlin

Germans wanted to move the entire French fashion industry to ________

seen throughout 20s and 30s

Monkey fur

longer skirts, defined waistlines, and more obvious curves

Style change 1920s

The silhouette changes drastically in 1930 and skirt hemlines drop. The bust line, waist, and hip are marked, but not accentuated, as opposed to the 1920's straight, boyish silhouette where bust, waist, and hip were ignored. Silhouettes are softer, often with flared skirts. The bias cut is big; Madeleine Vionnet is responsible for this trend. Hair is longer than in the 20s and waived.

1931 Style

-Oriental phase- elements from various far eastern influences are often combined including Japanese, Korean, Chinese imperial and Chinese peasant. The mandarin collar is utilized for its long neck look -The fez is used in the early 30s to exaggerate height -The concept of sportswear for leisure time and informal settings began to develop

1934 Style

After the early 30s, hemlines rise steadily. The shoulders become broader with puffed sleeves a common expression of shoulder width (compare this with the silhouette of 1900). The waistline is more definitely marked now. Women still wear corsets (now called girdles)

1938 Style

-The shoulder line is now wide and padded -Military influences are seen. Bust and waist are marked, hips are slim -Skirts are slim to moderately full -The silhouette is balanced with a big brimmed cartwheel hat -Shoes have rounded toes

1944 Style

o Traditionally every piece of glad shisha was hand cut and used mostly for clothing o Today there are machines that are equipped to cute shisha glad which is much more efficient o Shisha is now used on a wide variety of things, including clothing and decorative boxes

20th century Shisha

-Many artists chose to adapt African designs rather than copy them -Adapting included borrowing rules of aesthetic organization from African cultures, as well as translating African musical influences like jazz into two dimensions -Altering sources of inspiration is part of the creative process -1925-1931- most significant years for African influenced textiles

Adaption- African Textiles

-Gilbert Adrian was Hollywood's most prominent and influential costume designer in the 1930s. Adrian quit designing movie costumes in 1941 and formed Adrian Ltd. -He worked best within a theme like his Greek collection featuring Greek key motifs; Persian collection with dark clothing with gilt embroidery, and a Gothic Collection that had trailing medieval sleeves. His Spanish styles used black, jet and braid -He used large scale dramatic prints, fluid fabrics, asymmetric drapery, woolens woven in stripes or blocks of color, combined similar versions of a fabric into one ensemble

Adrian Gilbert

Artists adapted African art patterns to suit their creative and commercial needs, also adapting the energetic sound of jack onto textiles perceived to be simultaneously primitive and modern

African Textile Adaption

Imitation occurred when artists borrowed by copying directly from African art

African Textiles Imitation

A third group of artists transformed their source of inspiration, creating images that were the products of Western stereotypes and fantasies long associated with the African landscape, its animals, and its people, rather than images based on African art

African Textiles Transformation

- 1920s tourism came to the island ("aloha shirt" was coined) - mid 30s, these shirts became very popular - movie "here to eternity" : aloha shirts exploded

Aloha Shirt

A product of Cuban culture, the Caribbean style had the flamboyance of the Latin jazz movement accomplished by extravagant use of fabric, typically in white and pastel shades. Menswear resembled an evolved form of the zoot suit with a cleaner cut.

Caribbean Style

In 1954, after being closed during WW2, House of Chanel finally reopened

Chanel Reopens

Chanel was one of many Parisian couturiers and artists who utilized African shapes and patterns, particularly triangular shapes, in textiles

Chanel/African Textiles

o Charles James was most known for his evening gowns and coats o The 1940s to mid 50s were James' most influential time. He designed with an engineering philosophy and was very mathematical. He observed how a garment was affected by posture, movement of wearer, grain of fabric, ultimate placement of seams, cut and placement of sleeves o His most important features were spiral draping and flowers. He was also known to have draped on live models o Taxi dress 1933

Charles James

Dior was the innovator of the "New Look". In 1947 he showed first collection under his own name. He produced two collections a year. Each had a theme. Each had a slightly different, or sometimes very different silhouette. He was known for asymmetric designs, perfection, and details. He died in 1957 -Raf Simons (currently running the House of Dior)

Christian Dior

-An American, Claire McCardell was head designer of Townley Frocks at age 27. She was the originator of the "American Look" and believed clothes should be fun, should fit both the individual and the occasion. She was inspired by menswear details. She pioneered innovative interchangeable separates, and had the first non-jean use of double stitching -popover was a wraparound house dress. The modern woman could be chic while doing the cooking

Claire McCardell

-Schiaparelli was an Italian designer famous for connections with avant-garde artists, especially surrealists including Jean Cocteau, Christian Berad, and Salvator Dali. Surrealism influenced the surface design of her garments, not the cut. This is evident in the Desk Suit and Tear Dress shown in subsequent slides. -Her millinery provided opportunity to explore new forms like the Shoe Har. She is also known for the "shocking pink" color. Her "Shocking" perfume was marketed in a voluptuous 'Mae West' body shape -Schiaparelli's signature bow knot sweater from 1927 was her first big success and became one of her most copied designs -This was a radical move for Schiaparelli to use zippers in haute couture and to emphasize the zipper by using bright and contrasting colors. She first used zippers beach jacket pockets (1930). Later, she incorporated exposed zippers into day and evening wear

Elsa Shiaparelli

Long torso top and skirt made with a series of circular cut flounces. Inspired by dancers of Spain

Flamenco Dress (spanish)

Mexican peasant footwear; woven straps of leather over the top and single strap toward back

Huarches (caribbean/latin american)

o Worked for Faith, Piguet, Lelong, and Schiaparelli before opening his own house in 1952 o His designs show influences from Balenciaga whom he idolized. His first collection was based on separates, and he used poplin for everything o In 1954, he met Audrey Hepburn and began designing her clothes. She became his favorite muse. He designed costumes for her movies "Funny Face," "Sabrina," and "Love in the Afternoon" and dressed her in real life as well o Givenchy retired in 1995 (house sold to LVMH in 1988). Designers following him at the House of Givenchy include Galliano, McQueen, Julien MacDonald, and Riccardo Tisci respectively

Hubert de Givenchy

-Madame Gres designed deceptively simple pleated dresses with a neoclassical style -She worked directly on the body which allowed her draping to be compared to sculpture. She drew inspiration from many cultures, using elements from the cut of kimonos, caftans, saris, and dhotis -During the mid to late 1930s, ethnic clothing traditions exerted powerful influence on fashion. Gres borrowed from a multiplicity of cultures, using elements from the cut of saris, dhotis, caftans, and kimonos. For this "Pagoda" diner jacket, she drew inspiration from the jackets worn by Balinese dancers

Madame Alix Gres

-bias cut -Her embroideries were inspired by Greek Classicism and Egyptian antiques. By the early 30s, she had abandoned bias cuts for classical style draping and folding. Many garments she constructed with just one piece of fabric. She generally preferred neutral colors, but also loved terracotta, black, and deep green.

Madeline Vionnet

-He began his design career in 1930s after several years as an illustrator, then editor of French Vogue. He specialized in simple, conservative, elegant, and extremely expensive fashions. The luxury of cut, materials, and workmanship. He admired Vionnet and borrowed her bias cut techniques for his own simple slip evening dresses in the 1930s. -Mainbocher's corset radically altered the undefined silhouette of the late thirties -In 1934 Mainbocher introduced the boned strapless bodice

Mainbocher

-Sleeves tied on to the bodice -Functional or non functional decoration on lower sleeve -Horizontal trim on skirt -A red faja (sash) at the waist - hair net or comb (peineta), and mantilla (black lace shawl) worn over the hair

Maja Dress

o Word used to describe henna, henna painting, and the resulting designs o Practiced in many parts of the world: North Africa to Northern India o Associated with romantic love and marriage- use exclusive to women o Integral part of bridal adornment in Hindu, Molslem, and Sephardic traditions o Has ritual, spiritual, and healing connotations

Mehndi

o Looser fit o Chemise o Trapeze

Mid 1950s Style

Made with Nehru neckline and collar. Standing band neckline and collar similar to Chinese and Mandarin necklines; usually has squared front edges. Named after the first Prime Minister of India - 1947-64 Jawaharial Nehru

Nehru Suit (india)

Through Rousseau's "Noble Savage" they saw the primitive as a better way of life, simpler and in harmony with nature

Noble Savage

o Norell created a sensation with the cuiotte skirted wool flannel day suit which he launched his own independent label in 1960. His sophisticated clientele welcomed the ease of movement allowed by the daring design o By 1944, Norell had launched chemise dresses, evening gowns, fur coats, sequined evening sheaths, fur slacks, and empire line dresses. By the 1950s, Norell was holding twice yearly shows at the Traina-Norell showroom

Normal Norell

30 50

Only _______ design houses stayed open during the war. Fabric consumption was cut _______%. Yardage was strictly regulated by type of garment

a solid work shirt adopted by early Hawaiian plantation workers, was the forerunner of the aloha shirt. These early shirts were soon decorated with the traditional Hawaiian design motifs- formerly used on their tapa cloth wraps. Designs on tapa cloth were in geometric designs in brilliant colors from natural dye sources and were hand painted or stenciled on the cloth

Palaka (hawaiian)

natural colored, hand plaited hat made from the leaves of the jipijapa plant

Panama Hat (caribbean/latin american)

Conversant with Spanish ceremonial and vernacular dress as an expression of European regionalism, Balenciaga likewise respected Orientalists effects. The cocoon shape of the back alludes to the way Japanese woman's outer kimono accommodates over her obi to create elegant arc. More evidently, in emphasizing the nape of the neck by dropping the bias rolled collar, he evokes the kimono's band neckline, which dips at the back

Spain meets Japans

Surrealism was the leading movement in visual arts in the 20s and 30s. It followed Freud's ideas on psychoanalysis and sought to give positive expression to subconscious and irrational thought. It made a major impact when taken up by painters such as Salvador Dali and photographer Man Ray. Surrealism presented an alien world of the mind full of paradoxes and nonsense

Surrealism

o Rayon o Acetate o Nylon

Technical Advances in Fashion

-late 40s-50s o The shoulders line rounded o The waist nipped in o The hemline lengthened

The "New Look"

-Increasing exposure to Africa through colonization -The visibility of African art and people exhibited at the many colonial and world expositions held between 1899 and 1939 -Interest in African art by European artists and -The presence of African-American performers dancing the cakewalk and the Charleston or playing ragtime and jazz in Paris, the cultural capital of Europe

The creation of African textiles during the 1920s and 1930s was the result of

(suit of lights) two piece suit with cape and hat worn by bull fighters in Mexico and Spain

Toreador Suit (spanish)

-Change in the character or condition of motif -The ultimate goal of the creative process -Prints in African textiles transformed African themes rather than motifs -These textiles reflect the primitivism and exoticism that those copied or adapted do. -However, they appeal to people with a fantasy-view of primitive African people, wild animals, and tropical landscapes -Motifs are more pictorial than abstract

Transformation-African Textiles

head covering consisting of a long piece of fabric wrapped around the head; variations worn throughout the middle east, north Africa

Turban (india)