Finishing
Chemical sampling of aesthetic finishes: (2)
Burn-out and Plisse
Finishing Classifications: (3)
Chemical, Mechanical, thermal
____ ____ control is vital during shearing and multiple shearing is recomended
Fabric Tension
Mechanical sampling of Aesthetic Finishes: (3)
Napping, Shearing, Pleating
Temporary Finish
Partially or completed removed after one laundering or cleaning
Finishing Durability: (4)
Permanent Finish, Durable Finish, Semi-durable finish, temporary finish
Thermal sampling of Aesthetic finishes: (5)
Schreinering, Singing, Decatizing, Embossing, Heat Setting
Problems with heat setting can include: (3)
Shade change, yellowing, thermal variation
Application Techniques: (2)
Spraying or padding
Stain Resistance: (4)
Stain proof, stain resistant, stain repellent, stain release
Aesthetic Finishes that Alter Color: (4)
Stone Washing, Sand Washing, Mercerizing, Chemical and Enzyme Washing
Aesthetic Finishes that Alter Hand: (3)
Sueding, Sanding, Stiffening
Finishing
Treatment of fabric to prepare it for sale
Finishes are categorized based on: (3)
Type of finish, purpose for applying the finish, durability of the finish
Resin
a polymer or prepolymer, usually temporary, applied to fabric
Aesthetic finishes that alter texture burn-out are characterized by:
a sheer area with a fringe around the edge of the sections where the chemical was applied
With Moiré finish, the fabric typically has:
a watermark design
Napping (mechanical) can be used to produce:
a wide variety of fabrics, some of which resemble pile weave
Handbuilding: (5)
adds weight, increases luster, makes sewing easier, used in lace & denim, may be durable or non-durable
Fluorocarbon finishes that are used as water and stain resistant finishes are:
also effective as soil-release finishes
Application Process Sequence:
apply finish, dry, heat the chemicals
Aesthetic finishes that alter texture plissé are produced by:
applying a chemical in vertical stripes that shrinks those areas of the material
Singeing exposes fabric surface to a blame to: (2)
burn off short fiber ends of fabric and give smooth fabric appearance
Heated Cans
can drying used for woven fabrics like knits curl and/or stretch
Functional Finishes Wrinkle Resistance are applied to:
cellulosic fibers and their blends to improve the wrinkle resistance as they have poor resiliency
Tenter Frames:
chains w/ pins or clips pull width of fabric open as it passes through oven
The majority of functional finishes are:
chemical finishes with varying degrees of performance
Aesthetic finishes that alter texture (chemical) burn-out require:
combination yarn or fabrics (2 types of polymer) where one is easily dissolved by solvent/acid and other is resistant to that chemical
Functional Finishes enhance (4)
comfort, maintenance, protection/safety, durability
For heated cans, fabric must be:
crease free
Resin Pleating can be used to...
create permanent pleats in fabrics that are not thermoplastic
Shearing
cutting of loops of yarn to create a flat velvet fabric appearance
Aesthetic finishes that alter texture burn-out design is created by:
dissolving one type of fiber leaving other
____ is similar to schreinering
embossing
Heated Cans can be:
enclosed or open
Functional Finishes Durable Press is applied to:
enhance the maintenance properties of cellulosic fibers and their blends
Functional Finishes enhance: (4)
fabric comfort, fabric maintenance, fabric safety, fabric durability
Ovens:
fabric edges held by pins or clips
Heat Setting establishes ____ ____ & minimizes: (3)
fabric memory, shrinkage, pilling and wrinkling
Functional Finishes are finishes that enhance:
fabric preformance by imparting desirable properties
Napping increases ____ ____ and reduces ____
fabric thickness, width
Flame-retardent treatments are not used extensively due to:
factors such as finish durability and fabric strength loss
Chemical Finishes are finishes that are ____ ____ and may be ____ ____
fiber dependent, fabric dependent
Flame- Retardent Treatments are:
fiber specific since they chemically react with fibers to improve flame-resistant properties
Flame-Resistant & Flame-Retardent are commonly used for:
general end uses
Softeners improve: (5)
hand, tear, abrasion resistance, sewing behavior, appearance
Thermal Pleating:
heat setting fabrics made of thermoplastic fibers
Aesthetic Finishes that Alter texture schreinering (thermal and mechanical) use ....
heated engraved roll to press fine lines into cotton or linen fabrics to increase luster (uses high pressure)
Soil/Stain-Resistant and Soil-Release Finishes:
improve material's ability to resist soiling/staining and prevents stain from spreading on the surface
With compacting, fabric weight is ____ and length is ____
increased, reduced
Permanent Finish:
lasts for the life of the fabric
Effectiveness of finish is often diminishes by:
laundering, specifically when laundry aids such as bleaches, low phosphate detergents and fabric softeners are used
Functional Finishes Durable Press require:
little or no ironing if removed promptly from the dryer after tumble drying
Semi-durable finish
loses its effectiveness after repeated laundering/cleaning and use
Aesthetic Finishes can be broadly subdivided into finishes that change: (4)
luster, texture, hand or drape, color
Width and length of fabric in tenter frames can be controlled by:
machine settings and temperature
embossed thermoplastic fibers are heat-set to:
make the finish more durable
Mariano Fortuny contribution to fashion:
method of pleating
Functional Finishes Wrinkle Resistance now uses:
nanotechnology
Heated cans have no pins or clips which means:
no width control needed
Fluorocarbon finishes like Teflon and the new nanotechnology based finishes are also ____ and ____
oil-repellent, durable
Moiré finish produced by:
passing 2 layers of a rib weave fabric between rollers to flatten the ribs in certain areas
Aesthetic finishes that alter texture embossing have a raised effect produced by:
passing the fabric between an etched roller and a soft surface roller
Resin Pleating
permanent pleats (creases) in fabrics are also produced using resin
Shearing can reduce:
pilling by removing protruding fibers
Resin is applied in order to: (4)
prevent creasing, reduce shrinkage, promote shape retention, reduce ironing
Water Proof
prevents penetration of water
Functional Finish for comfort: (2)
promote wickery & absorbency, store and release thermal energy in active wear for heating and cooling effects
Soil-release finishes originally developed to enhance:
properties of hydrophobic and oleophillic fibers (polyester and cotton/polyester blend) with a durable press finish
Aesthetic finishes that alter luster calendering (moiré):
provides a variety of finishes that affect fabric luster
Aesthetic finishes that alter texture plissé cause shrinkage that creates a ____ look
puckered
Napping (mechanical) is a method used to:
raise fiber
Napping uses wires to:
raise fibers to the surface of the fabric to give soft fabric texture
Compacting forces a fabric to compress upon itself to:
reduce (lengthwise) shrinkage
Fabrics can be embossed to produce look-alike plissé fabric which:
reduces cost but is not as durable
embossed cellulosic fibers commonly treated with a:
resin to make the finish more durable
Water resistance
resists penetration of water
Aesthetic Finish may: (2)
serve more than one purpose and be grouped under various categories
_____ _____ is used to shrink cotton fabrics for texture plissé and _____ is used to shrink nylon materials,
sodium hydroxide, phenol
Napping makes fabrics: (4)
softer, feel warmer, bulkier, have higher cover
Water repellent finishes often considered:
soil/stain-resistant
Napping (Mechanical) process requires:
spun yarns with low twist
Moiré has a glazed finish produced by:
starch wax or resin applied --> smooth high speed rollers add luster by flattening the surface of fabric
Problems with singeing include: (2)
streaks caused by differential burning & melt balls when thermoplastic fibers are used
Napping (mechanical) process:
surface of loosely twisted spun yarns pulled up --> produces fabric w/ fiber ends protruding from one or both sides of fabric
Water repellent
tends to be shed, but it can pass through the fabric
Water and Oil-Repellent Finishes are water proof:
textile materials are coated, laminated or bonded to a layer impermeable to water
Finish Classifications - Aesthetic Finishes alter (4)
texture, luster, hand, color
Finishing operations improve:
the appearance or utility of a fabric other than preparation, dyeing or printing
Heat Setting is used with (at least 30%) ______ _______
thermoplastic fibers
Aesthetic finishes that alter texture embossing (thermal and mechanical) gives fabric a...
three-dimensional effect
Decatizing purpose:
to improve hand and remove wrinkles from fabrics by circulating hot water or blowing steam through fabrics tightly wound on perforated rollers
Durable finish
usually lasts for the expected life of the product but effectiveness of finish is gradually reduced after repeated laundering or cleaning
Functional finishes Permanent Press previously used formaldehyde which: (4)
was not permanent, may give off odor, results in strength loss and poor abrasion resistance
Soil/stain-resistant finishes are often also:
water - and oil-repellent
Silicone based finishes are _____ but not ____
water-repellent, oil-repellent
Moiré glazed finish is temporary if ____ or ___ is used and durable if ____ is applied
wax, starch, resin
During processing of compacting the fabric is _____
"overfed"