Finishing

Chemical sampling of aesthetic finishes: (2)

Burn-out and Plisse

Finishing Classifications: (3)

Chemical, Mechanical, thermal

____ ____ control is vital during shearing and multiple shearing is recomended

Fabric Tension

Mechanical sampling of Aesthetic Finishes: (3)

Napping, Shearing, Pleating

Temporary Finish

Partially or completed removed after one laundering or cleaning

Finishing Durability: (4)

Permanent Finish, Durable Finish, Semi-durable finish, temporary finish

Thermal sampling of Aesthetic finishes: (5)

Schreinering, Singing, Decatizing, Embossing, Heat Setting

Problems with heat setting can include: (3)

Shade change, yellowing, thermal variation

Application Techniques: (2)

Spraying or padding

Stain Resistance: (4)

Stain proof, stain resistant, stain repellent, stain release

Aesthetic Finishes that Alter Color: (4)

Stone Washing, Sand Washing, Mercerizing, Chemical and Enzyme Washing

Aesthetic Finishes that Alter Hand: (3)

Sueding, Sanding, Stiffening

Finishing

Treatment of fabric to prepare it for sale

Finishes are categorized based on: (3)

Type of finish, purpose for applying the finish, durability of the finish

Resin

a polymer or prepolymer, usually temporary, applied to fabric

Aesthetic finishes that alter texture burn-out are characterized by:

a sheer area with a fringe around the edge of the sections where the chemical was applied

With Moiré finish, the fabric typically has:

a watermark design

Napping (mechanical) can be used to produce:

a wide variety of fabrics, some of which resemble pile weave

Handbuilding: (5)

adds weight, increases luster, makes sewing easier, used in lace & denim, may be durable or non-durable

Fluorocarbon finishes that are used as water and stain resistant finishes are:

also effective as soil-release finishes

Application Process Sequence:

apply finish, dry, heat the chemicals

Aesthetic finishes that alter texture plissé are produced by:

applying a chemical in vertical stripes that shrinks those areas of the material

Singeing exposes fabric surface to a blame to: (2)

burn off short fiber ends of fabric and give smooth fabric appearance

Heated Cans

can drying used for woven fabrics like knits curl and/or stretch

Functional Finishes Wrinkle Resistance are applied to:

cellulosic fibers and their blends to improve the wrinkle resistance as they have poor resiliency

Tenter Frames:

chains w/ pins or clips pull width of fabric open as it passes through oven

The majority of functional finishes are:

chemical finishes with varying degrees of performance

Aesthetic finishes that alter texture (chemical) burn-out require:

combination yarn or fabrics (2 types of polymer) where one is easily dissolved by solvent/acid and other is resistant to that chemical

Functional Finishes enhance (4)

comfort, maintenance, protection/safety, durability

For heated cans, fabric must be:

crease free

Resin Pleating can be used to...

create permanent pleats in fabrics that are not thermoplastic

Shearing

cutting of loops of yarn to create a flat velvet fabric appearance

Aesthetic finishes that alter texture burn-out design is created by:

dissolving one type of fiber leaving other

____ is similar to schreinering

embossing

Heated Cans can be:

enclosed or open

Functional Finishes Durable Press is applied to:

enhance the maintenance properties of cellulosic fibers and their blends

Functional Finishes enhance: (4)

fabric comfort, fabric maintenance, fabric safety, fabric durability

Ovens:

fabric edges held by pins or clips

Heat Setting establishes ____ ____ & minimizes: (3)

fabric memory, shrinkage, pilling and wrinkling

Functional Finishes are finishes that enhance:

fabric preformance by imparting desirable properties

Napping increases ____ ____ and reduces ____

fabric thickness, width

Flame-retardent treatments are not used extensively due to:

factors such as finish durability and fabric strength loss

Chemical Finishes are finishes that are ____ ____ and may be ____ ____

fiber dependent, fabric dependent

Flame- Retardent Treatments are:

fiber specific since they chemically react with fibers to improve flame-resistant properties

Flame-Resistant & Flame-Retardent are commonly used for:

general end uses

Softeners improve: (5)

hand, tear, abrasion resistance, sewing behavior, appearance

Thermal Pleating:

heat setting fabrics made of thermoplastic fibers

Aesthetic Finishes that Alter texture schreinering (thermal and mechanical) use ....

heated engraved roll to press fine lines into cotton or linen fabrics to increase luster (uses high pressure)

Soil/Stain-Resistant and Soil-Release Finishes:

improve material's ability to resist soiling/staining and prevents stain from spreading on the surface

With compacting, fabric weight is ____ and length is ____

increased, reduced

Permanent Finish:

lasts for the life of the fabric

Effectiveness of finish is often diminishes by:

laundering, specifically when laundry aids such as bleaches, low phosphate detergents and fabric softeners are used

Functional Finishes Durable Press require:

little or no ironing if removed promptly from the dryer after tumble drying

Semi-durable finish

loses its effectiveness after repeated laundering/cleaning and use

Aesthetic Finishes can be broadly subdivided into finishes that change: (4)

luster, texture, hand or drape, color

Width and length of fabric in tenter frames can be controlled by:

machine settings and temperature

embossed thermoplastic fibers are heat-set to:

make the finish more durable

Mariano Fortuny contribution to fashion:

method of pleating

Functional Finishes Wrinkle Resistance now uses:

nanotechnology

Heated cans have no pins or clips which means:

no width control needed

Fluorocarbon finishes like Teflon and the new nanotechnology based finishes are also ____ and ____

oil-repellent, durable

Moiré finish produced by:

passing 2 layers of a rib weave fabric between rollers to flatten the ribs in certain areas

Aesthetic finishes that alter texture embossing have a raised effect produced by:

passing the fabric between an etched roller and a soft surface roller

Resin Pleating

permanent pleats (creases) in fabrics are also produced using resin

Shearing can reduce:

pilling by removing protruding fibers

Resin is applied in order to: (4)

prevent creasing, reduce shrinkage, promote shape retention, reduce ironing

Water Proof

prevents penetration of water

Functional Finish for comfort: (2)

promote wickery & absorbency, store and release thermal energy in active wear for heating and cooling effects

Soil-release finishes originally developed to enhance:

properties of hydrophobic and oleophillic fibers (polyester and cotton/polyester blend) with a durable press finish

Aesthetic finishes that alter luster calendering (moiré):

provides a variety of finishes that affect fabric luster

Aesthetic finishes that alter texture plissé cause shrinkage that creates a ____ look

puckered

Napping (mechanical) is a method used to:

raise fiber

Napping uses wires to:

raise fibers to the surface of the fabric to give soft fabric texture

Compacting forces a fabric to compress upon itself to:

reduce (lengthwise) shrinkage

Fabrics can be embossed to produce look-alike plissé fabric which:

reduces cost but is not as durable

embossed cellulosic fibers commonly treated with a:

resin to make the finish more durable

Water resistance

resists penetration of water

Aesthetic Finish may: (2)

serve more than one purpose and be grouped under various categories

_____ _____ is used to shrink cotton fabrics for texture plissé and _____ is used to shrink nylon materials,

sodium hydroxide, phenol

Napping makes fabrics: (4)

softer, feel warmer, bulkier, have higher cover

Water repellent finishes often considered:

soil/stain-resistant

Napping (Mechanical) process requires:

spun yarns with low twist

Moiré has a glazed finish produced by:

starch wax or resin applied --> smooth high speed rollers add luster by flattening the surface of fabric

Problems with singeing include: (2)

streaks caused by differential burning & melt balls when thermoplastic fibers are used

Napping (mechanical) process:

surface of loosely twisted spun yarns pulled up --> produces fabric w/ fiber ends protruding from one or both sides of fabric

Water repellent

tends to be shed, but it can pass through the fabric

Water and Oil-Repellent Finishes are water proof:

textile materials are coated, laminated or bonded to a layer impermeable to water

Finish Classifications - Aesthetic Finishes alter (4)

texture, luster, hand, color

Finishing operations improve:

the appearance or utility of a fabric other than preparation, dyeing or printing

Heat Setting is used with (at least 30%) ______ _______

thermoplastic fibers

Aesthetic finishes that alter texture embossing (thermal and mechanical) gives fabric a...

three-dimensional effect

Decatizing purpose:

to improve hand and remove wrinkles from fabrics by circulating hot water or blowing steam through fabrics tightly wound on perforated rollers

Durable finish

usually lasts for the expected life of the product but effectiveness of finish is gradually reduced after repeated laundering or cleaning

Functional finishes Permanent Press previously used formaldehyde which: (4)

was not permanent, may give off odor, results in strength loss and poor abrasion resistance

Soil/stain-resistant finishes are often also:

water - and oil-repellent

Silicone based finishes are _____ but not ____

water-repellent, oil-repellent

Moiré glazed finish is temporary if ____ or ___ is used and durable if ____ is applied

wax, starch, resin

During processing of compacting the fabric is _____

"overfed"