History of Costume Exam 2

What is the falling band?

a style of neck wear that fell over the shoulders, often lace

What is a stomacher?

a triangular shaped bodice piece sewn onto the front of a gown

What is a golila?

a type of collar that stands on the back of the neck, open in the front

Men's tights/hose during the Renaissance were cut on the ____ with a front pouch that became the codpiece. They were ____ and ____ with small eyelets and points or buttoned

bias; laced and tied

Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with:

bombast

What were the undergarments worn by women during the Rococo?

chemise, corset, paniers

______ were platform shoes worn by Venetian courtesans.

chopines

When bias cut leg pieces were merged into one garment (tights) a pouch was added, called the ______.

codpiece

Men's breeches during Baroque era were:

comfortable and relaxed, less variety than Renaissance

A black ribbon tied around the neck is called a:

solitaire

_____ becomes a signal of wealth and luxury.

cotton

What were the two styles of dress for Neoclassicism women of the upper class?

court dress and "milk maid" style

Which of the following may have derived from Middle Eastern styles? a. The manteau b. The vest c. The fontange d. A and B only

d. A and B only

A cavalier could be seen wearing:

falling band, funnel boots (wider at knee), baldrick (sash to hold sword), and boot hose (folded over to show lace detail on funnel boots)

The Late Baroque woman could be seen wearing:

fontange headdress (lace cap named after Louis XIV's mistress), manteau (bodice with attached overskirt, fabric drawn to the back), and petticoat

Before lace, patterns were limited to geometric designs, lace is more _____.

free-form

This Cavalier is wearing _____ boots.

funnel

Spanish fashion influence included the popularization of ____ skirts, rigid _____, and straight waistlines that form a __ in the front of the bodice. There was also a more triangular farthingale and a closed ruff

split; bodices; V

The silhouette of the Northern Renaissance man was ___ and woman was ____.

square/boxy; angular

What is the popular motif inspired by India seen in textiles?

the Tree of Life motif

Men's fashion in Late Baroque is marked by the elimination of the ____, the beginning of modern dress.

the doublet

The _______ is also called a "Puritan" collar.

rabat

Who was Madame de Pompadour?

King Louis XV's mistress who influenced fashion

You can identify the Renaissance by the wearing of ____.

lace

T/F: The main purpose of the "Flea Cravat" was worn to keep fleas off one's body

False

Mantua-style gowns for women, men's dressing gown styles, and some of the prints and designs in textiles during the 18th century showed examples of ___________and _________________ influence on styles of costume.

Asian and Middle Eastern

What are the two types of Watteau gowns?

-A la Francaise: open pleats -A la Anglaise: pleats stitched down

What were some devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance?

-Artificial eyebrows made of mouse skins -Balls of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance -Patches to cover skin blemishes

How were the Cavaliers and Roundheads different in fashion?

-Cavaliers were supporters of the King who wore elaborate trims and fabrics -Roundheads were against the King and still wore fashions of the day but in moderation

Starch was used:

-First in Ancient Egypt -To maintain shape on collars and ruffs -In Europe beginning in the Renaissance

The "Modern Man" look includes:

-Plainer fabric -Closer fitting coat and shorter waistcoat -Breeches

How might a man of modest means in the 18th century acquire his clothing?

-Purchase used clothing -Join a "breeches club" -Save enough money over a period of several years

The fashion for "slashing and puffing" was inspired by

1477 Swiss victory over Burgundy

Women of the Early Baroque could be seen with *very scandalous* sleeves at ____ length, exposing the ____.

3/4 sleeves that exposed the forearm and wrists

Lacemakers were taught at the age of ___, working in damp basements with poor lighting that impacted ____ and health.

5 years old; eyesight

The "milk maid" style includes the dress worn ______.

A la polonaise, a style that is puffed in the back with loops and string

Lace was an important symbol of wealth. The English and French smuggled it from ____.

Belgium

During the Early Baroque, what were the two groups during the English Civil War?

Cavaliers (royalists) and roundheads (puritans)

The Late Baroque is marked by two rulers: ____ in England and ____ in France

Charles II in England (leaves French exile) and Louis XIV (Sun King) in France

During the Renaissance, extant knit pieces were revived from _____.

Egypt

Starch used for ruffs was first used by the ____.

Egyptians

Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called:

Eschelles

If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean that:

His uncle was old fashioned

Fashion technology accelerates due to the ____ Revolution.

Industrial Revolution

Catherine de Medici's marriage to the King of France brought ___ fashion to France. She wore ____ from her country and popularized them.

Italian (Florence); heels (chopines)

What period introduced the first printed fashion illustrations?

Italian Renaissance

Describe women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century.

Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments

Rococo/the Age of Enlightenment begins with the death of which ruler?

Louis XIV (Sun King) of France

Starting in the Early Baroque and continuing into modern times, the center of fashion moves to ____.

Paris

The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because...

Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century.

Figures like Eleanora de Toledo brought ____ influence into fashion.

Spanish

In the Baroque period, the ______ clung to old styles, like the Farthingale.

Spanish

__________ style influenced Renaissance fashion.

Spanish

Due to the _____ _____, Spanish fashion stands still.

Spanish Armada

Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance is to be seen in...

The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women and the designs and motifs in some woven Italian textiles

What is a pelisse?

a cape with slits for arms

What is a banyan and where did it originate?

a dressing gown worn as a casual garment; influence from India

What is a cravat?

a long strip of linen with lace edges, the beginning of the tie

Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were...

a preference for bleached, blonde hair high, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead

Italian men during the Renaissance would be seen wearing...

a shirt or camica, a doublet (jacket with peplum), and tights/hose

Fashion ____ during the Italian Renaissance

accelerates

What is the frock coat?

an English country style coat with turned down collar, more relaxed and informal, sometimes made of leather, later accepted as formal wear

During the Early Baroque, there was a split in ____ and ____.

ideology and fashion

Men can be seen wearing subtle _____ breeches during the Rococo.

knee

What is the robe en chemise?

muslin, usually white gown; soft-looking; fore-runner of the Empire waist gown; popularized by the scandalous Marie Antoinette portrait by Lebrun

In this type of lace, threads are wrapped and bundled with the buttonhole stitch

needle lace

"Baskets" tied around the waist to make skirts stick out at hips are called:

paniers

What is the term for tights/hose worn by Italian Renaissance men that used color-blocking techniques?

parti-colored

Trade with India and China resulting in the popularization of ____ and ____.

pastel colors and floral motifs

____ colors are popular during the Rococo/Neoclassical era.

pastel colors, especially for women

An important addition to the doublet for Baroque men was the ____.

peplum

The wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called:

petticoat breeches/rhinegraves

What are undergarments today, but were a visible part of outergarments in the 16th century?

petticoats

Court dress included high hair built up with ____.

pomade, made of apple and wheat paste

What color heel is associated with Louis XIV and his court?

red

Men's costume in the Northern Renaissance consisted of:

ruff, doublet, peascod belly, codpiece, trunk hose, knitted hose

What is the shape of a Spanish farthingale?

triangular

T/F: A major change in the fit of stockings came about when knitting machines were invented at the time of Queen Elizabeth I.

true

T/F: Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men.

true

T/F: Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.

true

T/F: In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible.

true

T/F: Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another. Italian influences in styles were brought to France by Catherine de Medici, an Italian who married a French king.

true

T/F: Louis XIV "The Sun King" is wearing a periwig, cravat, and red heels on his shoes.

true

T/F: Queen Elizabeth I is wearing a Medici collar, stomacher, and wheel farthingale.

true

T/F: Smocks and Short gowns were working class clothing during the 18th century.

true

T/F: The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume in the 16th century.

true

T/F: The widest and most extreme paniers were worn for Court Dress in England.

true

Breeches were an important change for men in the Northern Renaissance. Here we see a man in _____ ____.

trunk hose (upper stocks)

What are periwigs?

very large, curly wigs

During the Italian Renaissance, embroidery was an important element of costume. Embroidery included ____, ____, ____, and ____.

whitework, blackwork, redwork, and cutwork

The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated...

with the Swiss army