<TMD 222 FINAL>

The cutting pitch:

Affects cutting quality && is the angle at which the cutting device (knife) contacts the spread.

AATCC

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

ASTM

American Society for Testing and Materials

What were "slops"?

An early form of ready made or custom-made clothing tailors sold to lower classes of men like sailors, miners, and slaves.

Random Sampling

An inspection philosophy whereby a small number of garments are inspected in a bundle. If a specified number fail the bundle fails.

Branded Apparel

Apparel made by a manufacturer and sold to a retailer.

Private Label Apparel

Apparel merchandised and sold primarily by apparel retailers under their own names or labels.

The number of garments under production at a given time.

Work In progress

The patterns reflecting a firm's fit and sizing standards, and are used to create patterns for new garment designs are known as:

basic blocks/slopers/master patterns

While fitting a new jacket design on a fit model, you discover that one side of the garment doesn't hang at the same level as the other side. This problem affects the ___________________ of the garment.

Balance

Planning a smooth work flow with a steady supply of work for each operation.

Balancing

Why is making plus size clothing challenging?

Larger people have body shapes which are less similar to one another than smaller bodies and thus developing clothing for them requires more technical knowledge.

Which age group will have the most impact on your future career as an apparel professional?

45-54

The movement of materials & garment parts through the conversion process.

Work Flow

Marker efficiency in apparel industry CAD/CAM programs is calculated as:

% Utilization of fabric

According to the article, "Clothed in Misery", what percentage would the price of an article of clothing have to go up to provide a living wage and safer conditions for the people who make our clothing?

1-3%

Your company makes branded apparel for wholesale. What are the steps in the production cycle for your product?

1.Evaluate Previous Line & Trend Analys 2. Design 3. Sourcing and Costing 4. Pre-production 5. Production 6. Promotion and Sales 7. Distribution to Retailers

Which inspection philosophy does the "trim and inspect" system of quality inspection generally use?

100% inspection

When Levi's conducted a life cycle assessment by measuring the environmental impact of its 501 jeans and Dockers, what did they discover? Select all of the correct answers.

49% of the water used in the jeans occurred in the raising of cotton for the denim fabric. 45% of the water used was for washing the jeans after they had been purchased. Customers were responsible for 60% of the energy used to make and care for a pair of jeans.

Price lining is what kind of pricing method?

A pricing method where a group of garments of varying costs are grouped together and sold at one price.

In-line inspection

A type of quality inspection system done at various stages while the garment is being constructed.

Radio Frequency Identification

A way of tagging merchandise so that inventory can be taken without physically handling the merchandise.

According to the article "Closing the Circle", why has manufacturing clothing not yet been fully automated with robotics? There are multiple correct answers. Select all that apply.

A. Cheap labor can still be found around the world. B. In 2006 when this article was written, transportation costs were relatively inexpensive. C. Sewing clothing requires the human hand to guide fabric into machines. Robotics have yet to replicate the full dexterity of the human hand.

The textile industry was at the forefront of technological innovation for a very long time. Why have those innovations been forgotten? There are multiple answers. Choose all that apply.

A. Intense global competition drove down prices of fibres and fabric, making textiles and apparel a less noticeable part of household budgets, and turning textile makers into unglamorous, commodity businesses. B. The rise of computers and software as the very definition of 'high technology' led to the eclipsing other industries. C. For the first time in human history, generations of women across the developed world have grown up without learning the needle arts. D. Environmental campaigns made synthetic a synonym for toxic.

What information does the Textile Fiber Product Identification Act (TFPIA) require in clothing labels found in the United States? There is more than one correct answer. Select all that are correct.

A. Manufacturer's name/RN number B. Country of Origin C. Fiber content

The article, "Bangladesh Accord and Alliance: Playing Nice" illustrates the many issues that hinder progress making garment factories safe for workers. Which of the following issues was raised in the article? There is more than one answer.

A. There were two groups of retailers, the Accord and the Alliance, mediating change in Bangladeshi factories and they hadn't been getting along. B. The creation of unions and the election of workers' representatives is difficult because the Bangladeshi government needs to be involved. C. There are many other groups involved in the mediation besides the government, the Accord and the Alliance. D. There was a blockade for the two months before the article was published in March 2015 which disrupted the Bangladeshi supply chains and slowed factory work.

Any constraint to throughput, including a beginning operator or equipment failure.

Bottleneck

A planned backlog of work available.

Buffers

What are the ways garment patterns are made in the apparel production industry?

CAD Physically on Paper Draping

Sizes of men's dress jackets are based on which of the following male body measurements?

Chest and body length measurements

A ______ style is one that takes decades to move through the fashion cycle. It will be produced season after season.

Classic.

What is the difference between counterfeit merchandise and copyright infringement?

Copyright infringement is unauthorized replication of copy-written artwork, while counterfeit merchandise involves the replication of a trademark or logo and falsely presenting a product as authentic.

Which of the following is the definition of zero-waste design? Choose the best answer.

Creating a pattern for a garment which wastes no fabric; all of the fabric ends up in the garment.

A _______ works in the ______ phase in apparel product development, and is responsible for the aesthetic & functional aspects of a line relative to fashion, styling, color, variety, fit, sizing, and end use.

Creative Designer Pre-adoption

What kind of pricing strategy is an apparel manufacturer using when the markup is much larger than the cost to produce a garment?

Demand-based pricing

In which of the following situations are company standards important? There is more than one answer.

Developing grades rules for pattern sizes Licensing agreements Negotiating production contracts

Unlike haute couture where the apparel production process begins with a design inspiration, in mass production the process begins with a _______

Development Plan

______ is the sizing system where the number is a body measurement.

Dimensional sizing

Tariff

Duty or tax placed on an imported product.

identify which of the the spreading modes would be the quickest way to lay out a spread of fabric and would thus be the most efficient.

F/F N/U/D

What is the most expensive part of a garment?

Fabric

Which of the following affect the productivity of cutting?

Fabric characteristics Cutting equipment and method Spread height

The height of a spread or layup depends on which of the following? There is more than one answer.

Fabric characteristics[such as thickness of fabric] Size of the order to be cut Cutting method The vertical capacity of the spreader-the height available under the spreader

Inside Shop

Factories owned and operated by manufacturers/brands are called.

Outside Shop/Contractor

Factory hired by another company to perform some part of the manufacturing.

True or False. Estimating costs associated with manufacturing a garment is unimportant while a garment is being designed.

False

Most women in America are shaped like an hourglass.

False-Only 8% of women in the US have an hour glass figure.

"Zero waste" design is a new concept; it has never been used in the history of making clothing.

False.

It isn't important to shop the market in order to identify new customers or products.

False.

Luxury brands have a stellar record for their sustainability efforts and ethical treatment of workers in the factories where they have their clothing manufactured.

False.

The rapid production cycles of fast fashion sold by companies like Zara and H&M don't contribute to unsafe workers' conditions in Bangladeshi clothing factories.

False.

What does the Care Labeling Rule specify must be present on a permanently affixed clothing label in the United States?

Full instructions for regular care of the garment.

Which of the following are advantages of manufacturing apparel in the United States? There is more than one answer.

Gives workers in the United States much-needed jobs. Shorter lead times No tariffs or quotas Up-to-date skills in the work force

Determined by a company's size and fit standards, the exact amounts by which parts of a production pattern are increased and decreased into the desired sizes are called:

Grade Rules

What did the CEO of Patagonia, Yvon Chouinard, do to ensure his company would continue to donate to environmental causes if, after his death, it became a publicly traded company?

He filed "benefit corporation" papers which protect a company from shareholder lawsuits stating a company's environmental efforts are diluting stock values.

What is the term for the activity where Forever 21 creates a dress that has the exact same style and fabric as a dress designed by Diane Von Furstenburg?

Knocking off a design

Which one of the following apparel categories uses a height/weight sizing system?

Lady's Pantyhose

An apparel manufacturer is offering the following payment terms to a retailer: 3/10 net 60. What does this mean?

If the retailer pays the bill in 10 days they get a 3% discount. The retailer must pay in 60 days.

As apparel quality standards are decreased, tolerances (allowed variances between the standard and the actual quality of a garment) will:

Increased

Why did textile manufacturing shift from New England during the 1800s then to the American South in the 1930s and finally to other countries like Mexico and China in the last quarter of the 1900s?

It was the result of the search for cheaper and cheaper labor to run the looms.

____ is a materials handling philosophy or method in which the supplies for manufacturing arrive at the factory immediately before they are used in production.

Just-In-Time

Recommending a more conservative care method than the garment requires is known as:

Low Labeling

Your huge, multi-national company is planning to order wool to make jackets for your Fall and Winter career wear line. You will most likely buy your fabric from a:

Mill Representative

_______ is an apparel production system where machines are grouped together to create mini-factories. Operators work as a group and are cross-trained on all machines.

Modular Production System

If a Direct Costing Method was being used to calculate profits, which of the following costs would NOT fit into the Cost of Goods section of the Income Statement?

Office and Administrative Expenses.

Where did the American Industrial Revolution Begin?

Pawtucket, Rhode Island

The quality of a spread is affected by which of the following?

Ply alignment Static Tension in the Fabric

Fit problems in apparel are largely due to:

Poor Design Insufficient Inspection Faulty Construction

______ is an apparel production system where bundles of garment pieces move sequentially through the conversion process.

Progressive Bundle System

In a seam, the narrow width of fabric between the seam/stitching line and the cut edge is known as a:

Seam allowance/margin

Independent contractors hired by traditional apparel manufacturers and vertical retailers to source materials and production all over the world are known as:

Sourcing agents

A ______ works in the _______ phase in apparel product development, perfecting the fit of new styles and supervising the development of production patterns and grading.

Technical Designer Post-adoption

Can textile print designs be copyright protected? Please explain why or why not.

Textile print can be copyright protected because it can be considered a work of art.

Which of the following is a source for primary trend information?

The Color Association of the United States

What invention helped to speed up the production of ready made clothing?

The sewing machine

True of False. Garment manufacturers use their sizing systems as a way of differentiating their products from the products of other manufacturers.

True.

Standards

This quality control method is a set of general guidelines established by companies to reflect the overall quality of their products.

Specifications

This type of quality control tool requires that very precise guidelines be followed in the assembly of garments and include information about materials; garment measurements; and exact stitch, seam, and edge finishing classes and types.

The volume of work that can be completed in a given amount of time.

Throughput

A _______ is a logo or design signature registered with the government that distinguishes one company from another.

Trademark

What is the term for the activity where a manufacturer in Taiwan sells a pair of sneakers using cheaper materials with the identical logo and styling as Yeezy sneakers .

Trademark Infringement/Counterfeiting

According to the NYTimes article "Plus Size Wars" extremely overweight women who have been heavy all their lives are more likely to be comfortable with their body-image than women who became heavy only later in their lives.

True.

Apparel manufacturers examine garments that have been returned to them by retailers or customers in order develop future apparel lines.

True.

Clothing can be made from many materials, including cultured bacteria.

True.

Higher quality standards for clothing means that the manufacturing process will take more time and thus the volume, or number of clothing that can be finished, is decreased.

True.

Sustainable apparel manufacturing strategies include the ethical treatment of workers in apparel factories.

True.

The stitching design on the back pocket of Levi's jeans is a registered trademark.

True.

The textile and apparel industries were among the first industries to "go global".

True.

______ is an apparel production system where garment pieces move together on an overhead transport rail.

Unit Production System

The computerized blade cutting mechanism has virtually replaced this type of hand-cutting.

Vertical straight knife cutter

Which of the following mass merchandisers has set a goal of zero waste in their stores?

Walmart

The average American women is:

a petite size 14

_______is the total amount of materials, product parts, or finished goods a factory is capable of producing.

demonstrated capacity

Primary markets include the

growing, or raising (e.g. sheep) fibers

Clothing made from bamboo is not sustainable because it is; There are multiple answers.

it is really rayon, a fiber whose development is hard on the environment. made using toxic chemicals. not durable. It doesn't hold up to use and washings.

A vertical retailer is looking for a manufacturing contractor that offers full-package production. What kind of manufacturer are they looking for?

manufacturer that sources the material and produces the finished goods.

A "nest" is:

one pattern for a particular style shown in all of the sizes that will be produced

______are data based on characteristics of peoples' lifestyle values-interests, attitudes, and opinions.

psychographics

_____ is the inspection philosophy whereby a small number of garments are inspected in a bundle. If a specified number fail the bundle fails.

random sampling

The Council of Fashion Designers of America believes a copyright law protecting garment design is necessary now more than ever primarily because:

the speed of communication has increased dramatically due to the internet.