Milday Chapter 11: Properties of the Hair and Scalp Workbook
polypeptide chains are cross linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different type of side bonds called:
-hydrogen bonds -salt bonds -disulfide bonds
what are the classifications of hair texture?
1) coarse 2) medium 3)fine
What are the three main layer of the hair shaft?
1) cortex 2) hair cuticle 3) medulla
Hair density can be classified as:
1) low 2) medium 3) high
List the two principle types of dandruff and give their characterization
1) pityriasis capitas simplex- scalp irritation, large flakes, and itchy scalp 2)pityriasis steatoides- accumulation of greasy or waxy scales mixed with sebum that sticks to the scalp
Name three different hair properties for which the cortex is repsonsible
1) weight of the hair 2) elasticity of the hair 3) natural color of the hair
Why is is important for a cosmetologist to study and understand the properties of the hair and scalp?
1) you need to know how and why our hair grows and how and why it falls out in order to be able to differentiate between normal and abnormal hair loss 2) knowing what creates natural hair color and texture is a vital part of being able to offer a variety of chemical services to clients 3) spotting an unhealthy scalp condition that could be harboring a communicable disease or even be causing permanent hair loss is a way to aid your client in caring for their scalp and their hairs well-being
what is the average growth of a healthy scalp hair per month
1/2 inch (1.25 cm)
The average hair density is about _____ hair per one square inch, and the average head of hair contains about ______ individual hair strands
2,200 100,000
how long does the anagen phase generally last?
3-5 years, sometimes 10 years
according to recent measurements, the average rate of hair loss is _____ hairs per day
35-40
Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to ______ of its original length and return without breaking. Drying hair stretches about _____ of its length
50%, 20%
How many pounds of dead skin does the average person shed each year?
9 pounds every year
what percentage of the total weight of hair comes from the cortex?
90%
Which of the following statements is true of the hair with low elasticity? a) chemical services will require a solution with a higher pH b)hair services should not be performed at all c) it may not be able to hold a permanent wave as easily
C) it may not be able to hold a permanent wave as easily
together, the five elements that make up human hair are referred to as the _____ elements to help people remember them; they are also found in the ____ and the _____
COHNS, skin, nails
cowlick
Due to a particular pattern of hair stream on the forehead
A condition of abnormal hair growth
Hypertrichosis or hirsuties
technical term for dandruff
Pityriasis
Describe the hair cuticle layer
The cuticle layer provides a barrier that protects the inner structure of the hair as it lies tightly against the cortex, creates shiny, silky smooth hair
oily hair and scalp is characterized by______
a greasy build up on the scalp and an oily coating on the hair
describe the most common permanent treatment for hair loss
a hair transplant is the most common; removing a small section of hair including the follicle, papilla and hair bulb and moving it to a less hairy section
Describe what a healthy cuticle layer protects
a healthy cuticle layer protects the hair from penetration and prevents damage to hair fibers
what percentage of scalp hair is in the telogen phase at any one time?
a little less than 10 percent
list the main elements that make up human hair and their percentage in normal hair
a) carbon 51% b) oxygen 21% c) hydrogen 6% d) nitrogen 17% e) sulfur 5%
hair follicles are distributed all over the body, with the exception of:
a) palms of the hand b) soles of the feet
porosity
ability of the hair to absorb mositure
elasticity
ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking
abnormal hair loss is called ___
alopecia
alopecia areata that progresses to total scalp hair loss it is called _____. when it results in complete body hair loss it is called ____
alopecia totalis, alopecia universalis
units that are joined together and makeup proteins
amino acids
what is the growth phase of new hair
anagen phase
_________ is the result of genetics, age, or hormonal change that cause terminal hair to ______
androgenic alopecia, miniaturize
In addition to genetics, _____ and ____ may also cause premature gray hair
anxiety, illness
small, involuntary muscle in the base of the hair follicle
arrector pili muscle
which muscle causes goose bumps when it contracts due to strong emotions or a cold sensation?
arrector pili muscle
when does hair tend to grow the most rapidly?
between the ages of 15-30
Which of the following has distinctive odor? a)tinea barbae b)scabies c)scutula d)head lice
c)scutula
technical term for gray hair
canities
an inflammation of subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci
carbuncle
what is the transition period between the growth and resting phases
catagen
Which hair texture has the largest diameter
coarse hair
Which hair texture usually requires extra processing when applying a product like hair color?
coarse hair
in a porosity check, if the hair feels smooth, the cuticle is _______
compact, dense, and hard (resistant)
There are two types of canities. They are _____ canities and _____ canities.
congenital, acquired
the outermost layer of the hair is the
cuticle
which of the following is not a cause of dry hair and scalp? a) excessive shampooing b) dry climate c)inactive sebaceous glands d)active sebaceous glands
d
Overly porous hair is _______
damaged, dry, fragile, and brittle
what is the difference between dry scalp and dandruff?
dandruff produces an oily scalp and an excessive amount of large dry skin cells. dry scalp has much smaller dry flakes and are less noticeable
small cone-shaped elevation located at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb
dermal papilla
which part of the hair root contains blood and nerve supply that provides the nutrients need for hair growth?
dermal papilla
summarize the different possible causes of hair loss?
different types of hair loss can be attributed to autoimmune disorders, post birth/pregnancy, stress, anxiety, aging, and genetics
a ________ bond is strong, chemical side bond that joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cystein amino acids to create one cystine
disulfide
how are the hair's strong chemical side bonds broken
disulfide bonds are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair
name some causes of drys scalp
dry scalp can be caused by dermatitis, sunburn, extreme age, and can be worsened by cold, dry climates.
the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking is its
elasticity
What are possible treatments for hypertrichosis?
electrolysis, photoepilation, laser hair removal, shaving, tweezing, electronic tweezers, depilatories, threading and sugaring
True or False: all hair on a person's head has the same texture
false
true or false: all hair had three layers of the hair shaft
false
true or false: gray hair is coarser and more resistant than pigmented hair
false
true or false: hair density and hair texture are essentially the same thing
false
true or false: hair texture always indicated the hair's porosity; for example, coarse hair always has a low porosity
false
true or false: it is appropriate for a cosmetologist to perform a service on a client who has a serve case of dandruff
false
true or false: more than one hair will never grow from a single follicle
false
true or false: scalp massage increase hair growth
false
true or false: shaving, clipping, cutting the hair makes it grow back faster, darker, and coarser
false
true or false: the medulla is involved in salon services
false
true or false: ringworm is cause by a parasite
false; it is a fungus
_______ is an oral prescription medication for men only and is more effective and convenient than its nonprescription counterpart
finasteride
in extremely curly hair, cross sections appear ______ and vary in shape and thickness along their length
flattened
on adults, vellus hair is usually found on the _____
forehead, eyelids, bald scalp and almost every place on the body except for the palms of the hands and soles of the feet
terminal hair is found where
found on the scalp, legs, arms, and bodies
technical term for brittle hair
fragilitas crinium
list the ways head lice are transmitted from an infected person to a non infected person
from contact with infected hats, combs, brushes, and other personal articles
an acute, localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle
furuncle
natural wave patterns are the result of ____
genetics
how is gray hair different from other hair colors?
gray hair contains only a few scattered melanin granules, white hair does not contain any melanin
What special tools does a cosmetologist need in order to preform a hair anaylysis?
hair analysis is preformed through observation using the sense of sight, touch, sound, and smell
the lowest part of the hair strand is called the
hair bulb
the thickened, club-shaped structure that forms the lower part of the root
hair bulb
hair stream
hair flowing in the same direction
the tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the hair root
hair follicle
Why is hair a living thing?
hair is made up of living cells and go through a "life cycle" they grow until they die
by the age of 35, 40% of men and women show some degree of ____
hair loss
the ___ is located below the surface of the epidermis
hair root
a mature strand of human hair is divided into two parts:
hair root and hair shaft
the _____ is the portion of the hair that projects above the epidermis
hair shaft
whorl
hair stream that spiral outward from a central point
the spiral shape of a coiled protein
helix
in a porosity check, if the hair feels very rough, dry, or breaks it is considered _____
highly porous, perhaps overly processed
a ________ bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat; these bonds reform when the hair ____
hydrogen, dries
a term that means easily absorbs moisture is _____
hydrophilic
A term that means resistant to being penetrated by moisture is ______
hydrophobic
Oily hair and scalp is caused by _____ or _____ sebaceous glands
improper shampooing; overactive
What does tinea barbea affect?
it affects the skin, primarily limited to the bearded area of the face, neck, and are around the scalp
why are pregnant women warned against having any contact with the oral prescription medication used to treat hair loss in men?
it has the strong potential to cause birth defects and complications
What is alopecia areata?
it is an autoimmune disorder that causes the affected hair follicles to be mistakenly attacked by a person's own immune system
What is seborrheic dermatitis?
it occurs when pityriasos steatoides is accompanied by redness and inflammation
What does tinea look like
itching, scales, sometimes circular lesions, several patches may be present at a time
The maturation of these cells is a process called ______
keratinization
men retain ____ vellus hair than women
less
chemical services preformed on overly porous hair require _____
less alkaline solutions, lower pH
describe how bald and balding men are perceived by others?
less physically attractive, less assertive, less successful ,less personally likable, and older by about 5 years
what percentage of scalp hair is in the catagen phase at any one time
less than 1 percent
describe terminal hair
long, coarse, pigmented hair
extremely curly hair often has _____ elasticity
low
research conforms that dandruff is the result of fungus called _____ an naturally occurring fungus that is present on all human skin
malassezia
in men, androgenic alopecia is known as as _____ and usually progresses to the familiar horseshoe-shaped fringe of hair
male pattern baldness
density
measure the number of individual hair strands on one square inch of the scalp
Which hair texture is the most common and is the standard to which other hair is compared to?
medium hair texture
the _______ is the innermost layer of the hair and is composed of round cells
medulla
_______ are the tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that give natural color to the hair. list and describe the two different types
melanin: 1) eumelanin- natural dark brown/black pigment 2)pheomelanin- lighter pigment which provides natural red to ginger to blond tones
which layer of the is the cortex?
middle layer
how many people does androgenic alopecia affect in the US
millions of people
a topical medication that is put on the scalp twice a day and is sold over the counter as a nonprescription drug is _____; the most commonly know product that contains this drug is called Rogaine
minoxidil
what are the only two products that have been proven to stimulate hair growth and are approved by the FDA for sale in the US
minoxidil and finasteride
technical term for beaded hair
monilethrix
What is an example of hypertrichosis?
mustaches or light beards
Hair with average porosity is considered _____
normal
the infestation of the hair and scalp with head lice
pediculosis capitis
the strong, chemical bond that joins amino acids
peptide bond
a long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds
polypeptide chain
The hair's ability to absorb moisture is its ______
porosity
in a porosity check, if you feel a slight roughness, the hair is considered
porous
Jane, a client at your salon, gave birth to her first baby three months ago. When she comes in for a service, she complains that her hair seems to be shedding. The condition is called _______. You reassure Jane that her hair growth cycle should eventually return to ____ within in about ____ after the baby is delivered
postpartum alopecia; normal; one year
as a cosmetologist, what are two ways you can help prevent the spread of infectious conditions?
properly practicing state board approved cleaning and disinfection procedures will prevent the spread of infestation, also do not preform services on people with these conditions
hair is composed of ______ that grows from cells originating with the hair follicle
protein
abnormal hair loss may also be a side effect of _____ or _____ cancer treatments
radiation or chemotherapy
which hair color typically has the lowest density?
red
characterized by alternating bands of gray and pigmented hair
ringed hair
if you hold the end of single strand of hair in one hand and then grasp it between the thumb and forefinger of the other hand and move them down the hair shaft, the hair will feel ____
rough
weak, physical, cross-linked side bonds between adjacent polypeptide chains are ____ bonds
salt
caused by a parasite called a mite
scabies
the oil glands in the skin that are connected to the hair follicles
sebaceous glands
dry hair and scalp can be caused by ______ and is aggravated by _____
sebaceous glands; excessive shampooing or dry climate
the sebaceous glands secrete a fatty or oily substance called____ which lubricates the skin
sebum
describe vellus hair
short, fine, unpigmented, downy hair that appears on the body
asians and native americans tend to have extremely ____ hair, while African Americans tend to have _____, hair, however, anyone of any race, or mixed race, can have hair with varying degrees of curl
straight, extremely curly
the ________ of the hair refers to the shape of the hair strand is describes as ____, _____, _____, or _____
straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly
hair elasticity is an indication of _______-
strength of the side bonds that holds individual hair fibers in one place
All professional hair services must be based on a through understanding of the growth, ____, and composition of hair
structure
describe how to check porosity?
take a section of hair from 4 different areas of the head, hold the strand of hair and slide your thumb and forefinger from the end to the scalp
what is the rest phase
telogen
the degree of porosity is directly related to _______ why?
the condition of the cuticle layer because if the cuticle layer is compact it is naturally resistant to penetration of moisture, porous hair easily absorbs moisture
in what layer of the hair do changes involving oxidation hair color, wet setting, thermal stryling, perm waving and chemical hair relaxing take place?
the cortex
Texture
the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand
technical term for ringworm
tinea
fungal infection characterized by red papules, or spots, at the opening of the hair follicles
tinea capitis
dry, sulfur-yellow, cuplike crusts on the scalp called scutula
tinea favosa
why must oxidation haircolors, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers have an alkaline pH.
to penetrate the cuticle layer, because a high pH swells the cuticle and causes it to life and expose the cortex
_______ is the scientific study of hair and its diseases and care, which comes from the Greek word _____, meaning "hair," and _____, meaning "the study of"
trichology, trichos, ology
technical term for split ends
trichoptilosis
Softening the hair with conditioners and moisturizers is often used in the treatment _____ and may also help ____, but will not repair split ends
trichorrhexis nodasa, trichoptilosis
technical term for knotted hair
trichorrhexis nodosa
True or False: during the hair analysis, the cosmetologist should identify any and all hair growth patterns and take them into consideration when creating the overall look, haircut, to hairstyle the client wants to achieve
true
True or false: hair growth patterns are caused by follicles that grow perpendicular to the scalp
true
true or false: a cross section of hair can be almost any shape and its shape does not necessarily relate to the amount of curl or shape of the follicle
true
true or false: abnormal hair loss is not as common for women as in men, but it can be very traumatic and devastating or women who experience it
true
true or false: all hair follicles are capable of producing either vellus or terminal hair, depending on genetics, age, and hormones
true
true or false: all male beard hair contains a medulla
true
true or false: hair is a living thing
true
true or false: the shape of a cross section of hair always relates to the amount of curl in the hair
true
true or false: tinea is contagious
true
true or false: under normal circumstances everyone loses some hair every day
true
what can be done to control dandruff?
use of anti dandruff shampoo can be used
the two main types of hair found on the body are ____ hair and ____ hair
vellus and terminal
what nonmedical options can a hairstylist offer to counter hair loss?
wigs, toupees, hair weaving, and hair extensions