OCE 1001 Ch. 10

Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion?

(beach nourishment groin seawall) All of these are used to try to prevent or retard shoreline erosion.

This wetland coastal area occurs:

(between 30°N and 30°S latitude. in coastal areas that do not experience seasonal killing frosts. in coastal areas that dissipate wave energy.) All of the above conditions control the distribution of this type of coastal wetland.

Sediment is supplied to the coastal zone by:

(coastal erosion. local biological activity. rivers.) All of the above are sources of sediment in the coastal zone.

Reasons for the loss of coastal wetlands include:

(coastal housing. industrial development. agriculture. removal of mangroves and other coastal vegetation) all of the above.

Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called:

Deltas

What type of feature is a barrier island?

depositional

The direction that sediment is traveling along a coast is called the ---- direction.

downstream

Landforms associated with longshore drift form where the --- is plentiful enough to create them.

sediment

The extent of a continent's coastal waters depends on the size and relief of its continental ________.

shelf

How does the tide cycle affect erosion along a sea coast?

The tide cycle causes erosion to occur at different elevations along a sea coast

One major problem associated with the Chesapeake Bay due to increased human pressure is:

an increase in nutrients resulting in more frequent kills of bottom-dwelling or benthic animals.

Winter beaches

are narrower than summer beaches due to high-energy waves during the winter.

Narrow currents flowing across the surf zone toward the open ocean are called:

rip currents

Normally, beaches have the greatest amount of sand on the berm near the end of __________

summer

An estuary produced by faulting or folding of rocks that creates a dropped-down section into which a river flows is called a:

tectonic estuary

Most marginal seas result from which of the following?

tectonic events

Isostatic movement of a coastline might occur due to:

the removal of a large glacier that rested in that area.

When seafloor spreading rates increase:

there is a rise in sea level.

Waves hitting at an angle and then bending around features of the coast is known as

wave refraction

The pier-like structures --- sand that is moving parallel to the shore

trap

The pier-like structures are installed --- to the shore.

perpendicular

In which area(s) of a barrier island is peat formed?

Low salt marsh, high salt marsh

Which of the following statements regarding a salt wedge estuary is/are true? Salt wedge estuaries are characterized by estuarine circulation, in which river water flows toward the ocean and ocean water flows toward the head of the estuary. Salt wedge estuaries are characterized by a strong halocline. Salt wedge estuaries are common at the mouths of deep, high-volume rivers. Salinity is uniform from the top of the water column to the bottom in a salt wedge estuary. Fjords are examples of salt wedge estuaries

3 salt wedge

About what percent of the world fishery is obtained within 320 kilometers (200 miles) of shore?

95%

Which of the following best describes the trend in the United States wetlands during this century?

A decrease in coastal wetlands and an increase in freshwater wetlands

How does a sea stack form?

A stack forms when a sea arch collapses, leaving a vertical column of rock offshore

How is an arch formed along a sea coast?

An arch forms when a sea cave breaks through a headland or where two sea caves coalesce as they erode back due to wave action

Which of the following estuaries forms when sea level rises and floods an existing river valley?

Coastal Plain Estuary

The section of the coast that extends from normal high tide level to the highest elevation on land that is affected by storm waves is called the:

Backshore

Which of the following estuaries forms when wave action creates a barrier island that separates the estuary from the ocean?

Bar-built estuary

A friend is considering purchasing a vacation home on a barrier island. Given what you've learned about the impact of waves on coastal landforms, what information and advice could you offer your friend?

Barrier islands tend to experience significant erosion and deposition of sand. Mitigating these effects is extremely difficult and costly. Your friend would be wise to reconsider. A home on a barrier island is likely to take the full brunt of storm waves, making it a risky proposition. Your friend should think twice before purchasing.

Which of the following can help prevent beach starvation?

Beach replenishment

Which of the following features is characteristic of a submerging shoreline?

Drowned beach

What is the most obvious difference between summertime and wintertime beaches?

During summertime, there is much more sand on the beach.

The section of the coast that is exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide is called the:

Foreshore

If the current trend in the loss of coastal wetlands does not change, what consequence(s) would you predict?

Increased loss of marine fisheries

Why does the beach in the video look the way that it does during wintertime

Large waves move sand offshore onto longshore sand bars and create a rocky beach

Which of the following occurs during light wave activity?

Much of the swash soaks into the beach

Where does sand accumulate during heavy wave activity?

Offshore sand bars

*What happens to a barrier island as sea level rises?*

Peat deposits are exposed on the ocean beach side of the barrier island. The elevation of the barrier flat increases as sand is pushed up higher.

In order to produce longshore drift, the direction of waves must not be --- to the coast.

perpendicular

Estuarine circulation associated with a deep, high river volume system where no horizontal salinity gradient exists at the surface is called a:

Salt wedge estuary

What would you expect to happen to sea level along the Antarctic coastline if the ice cap covering the continent melted?

Sea level would decrease due to isostatic adjustment.

Which of the following is an example of hard stabilization?

Seawalls

Why does the beach shown in the video look the way that it does during summertime?

Small waves move sand up the beach face and create a wide, sandy beach

Which of the following estuaries forms when the sea floods a downdropped area caused by faulting?

Tectonic estuary

Which of the following best describes littoral drift?

The movement of sediment in a zigzag fashion caused by the longshore current.

How is a cave created in a cliff face along a sea coast

Wave action erodes areas of weakness in rock in a sea cliff

The speed of longshore currents decreases as which of the following increases?

Wave period

What is an estuary?

a body of water where freshwater and saltwater mix

Which feature of barrier islands provides evidence for a rise in sea level?

a peat outcrop

Of the following characteristics or features, which is/are associated with depositional shores? A. Bay-mouth bars B. The formation of barrier islands C. A location near a large delta D. High sediment supply E. A large sand spit F. Active tectonic uplift

a, b, c, d, e

Of the following statements about coastal regions and landforms, which is/are true? a. The berm is affected by storm waves but is typically dry and relatively flat. b. The area of a beach above the shoreline is often called the recreational beach. c. The nearshore is exposed during low tide each day. d. The beach face is the wet, sloping surface in the foreshore area. e. The berm is located in the backshore area. f. Most of the beach face is exposed during the lowest tides and covered during the highest tides.

a, b, d, e, f

Which of the following statements regarding a highly stratified estuary is/are true? A. Highly stratified estuaries are characterized by a strong halocline. B. Puget Sound is an example of a highly stratified estuary. C. Highly stratified estuaries are characterized by estuarine circulation, in which river water flows toward the ocean and ocean water flows toward the head of the estuary. D. Highly stratified estuaries are common along glaciated or previously glaciated coastlines. E. Highly stratified estuaries have a mixed zone.

a, c, d

Of the following characteristics or features, which is/are associated with erosional shores? A. A coastline with lots of rugged headlands B. A large volume of sediment input C. Wave-cut benches and marine terraces D. Rocky coasts E. Tectonic activity

a, c, d, e

Of the following statements about global sea level, which is/are true? A. When seawater warms, it thermally expands and occupies more volume, so global sea level rises. B. When the rate of sea floor spreading increases, global sea level is lowered. C. Sea level has risen about 120 meters (400 feet) in the past 18,000 years. D. When seawater cools, it contracts and occupies less volume, so global sea level is lowered. E. Sea level is affected by the amount of ice in polar ice caps on land.

a, c, d, e

Of the following statements about the physical characteristics of coastal oceans, which is/are true? A. In high-latitude areas, the coastal ocean is isothermal (has a uniformly low temperature from surface to deeper waters). B. Most coastal waters have very high salinity due to freshwater runoff. C. In low-latitude areas where there is no mixing, surface water temperatures can be very high. D. In middle-latitude coastal oceans where evaporation is high, a halocline can develop. E. Onshore wind and coastal runoff create geostrophic currents that flow northward along western North America. Submit

a, c, d, e

Which of the following statements regarding a slightly stratified estuary is/are true? A. Stratified estuaries have a mixed zone. B. Delaware Bay is an example of a stratified estuary. C. Salinity lines curve due to the Coriolis effect in a stratified estuary. D. Stratified estuaries have a saltier upper layer and a fresher lower layer. E. Salinity increases from the head to the mouth in a stratified estuary.

a, c, e

Which of the following statements regarding a vertically mixed estuary is/are true? A. Salinity decreases from the head of the estuary to the mouth in a vertically mixed estuary. B. Salinity lines curve due to the Coriolis effect in a vertically mixed estuary. C. River water mixes evenly with ocean water at all depths in a vertically mixed estuary. D. Salinity is uniform from the top of the water column to the bottom in a vertically mixed estuary. E. Vertically mixed estuaries are deep and have a high volume. Submit

b, c, d

The part of the shore that is above the high tide shoreline and is covered with water only during storms is known as the ________.

backshore

Lagoons that form behind barrier islands are examples of:

bar-built estuaries

In which area of a barrier island would you expect to find a woodland or forest?

barrier flat

The area of the barrier island complex that would contain thickets and woodlands would be the:

barrier flat

A --- forms when longshore drift creates a ridge of sand separating a waterway from the ocean.

baymouth bar

Where are barrier islands common? A. west coast of South America B. Japan C. east coast of the United States D. Gulf coast of the United States E. west coast of the United States

c, d

The boundary between the shore and the coast is known as the ________.

coastline

Beaches downcurrent from a groin tend to --- because of beach drift

erode

The photo of the New Jersey shore is an example of a

groin field

Coastal wetlands are characterized by:

high levels of organic matter in the tidal zone and anoxic muds.

The particle size on a beach:

is related to whatever material is locally available.

The purpose of the pier-like structures is to --- the beach and prevent erosion

maintain or widen

When there is longshore drift, the overall direction of sand transport is --- to the coast..

parallel