OCNG Exam 3-review
All are true of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current EXCEPT:
----->the Antarctic circumpolar current contributes tot he develipment of Antarctic bottom water in the Weddel Sea<---- -it contributes to upwelling off the antarctic coast producing an area of high primacy productivity in antarctic summer -it flows in a counterclockwise direction around the souther hemisphere at 60 degrees South Lat -is in the opposite direction to the East Wind Drift, a current the flows close to the Antarctic continent -created by the prevailing winds at that latitude
The most common tidal pattern around the world are
Mixed Tides
______ are {seasonal pressure systems} that develop at lower latitudes over continents which cause changes in seasonal winds and precipitation patterns.
Monsoons
Internal Wave
Movement of water of different densities along a {water-water interface}
Rip Current
Moves water from swash zone OUT to sea
smallest tidal range in the lunar cycle
NEAP tide
Which doesn't belong? full moon neap tide new moon spring tide syzygy
Neap tide
Ekman Transport
Net water movement to the LEFT or RIGHT of the direction of the wind
If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?
Spilling breakers
A {linear ridge of sediment} attached to land at one end might be called a
Spit
highest/max range in the lunar cycle
Spring Tide
Ratio of wave height to wavelength at which waves break
Steepness= 1:7
Sources of deep water in the ocean include all of the following EXCEPT:
Subtropical Convergences
What is true of surface ocean currents?
Surface currents form circular patterns in the major ocean basins called "gyres"
waves that are moving {{faster than local wind}} & are sorted out by {wave length} are called:
Swell
(T/F) Syzygy produces maximum tides once every 1,600 years if the relative positions of the Sun to the Earth and the Moon to the Earth are just right
TRUE
(T/F) The Gulf Coast of the US is an example of a coast where {tectonic subsidence} is occuring
TRUE
(T/F) There is no horizontal tide-generating force on Earth at points directly below & opposite the moon
TRUE
(T/F): A {Doppler} flow meter is a scientific instrument used to {measure current flow rates}
TRUE
(T/F): Downwelling may be the results of winds blowing parallel to a coastline or the convergence of surface currents
TRUE
(T/F): Dynamic {topography} can be used to determine {current}direction and velocity
TRUE
(T/F): Grunion depend upon a tide-related pattern of {erosion & deposition} of sand for the survival of their eggs
TRUE
(T/F): In the NORTHERN hemisphere, {Ekman Transport} pushes surface water to the RIGHT of the wind direction
TRUE
(T/F): The main current in Antarctic waters is the Antarctic Circumpolar Current, also called the West Wind Drift:
TRUE
(T/F): The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by 2
TRUE
(T/F): The {Circular movement} of surface water currents driven by the {major wind belts} are called GYRES
TRUE
(T/F): {Western boundary currents} such as- the Gulf Stream- transport warm water from the tropics toward higher latitudes:
TRUE
(T/F):During its time in the deep ocean, deep water can become enriched in oxygen
TRUE
(T/F)The coastal area affected by surf is referred to as the beach
TRUE
(T/F) A standing wave can be caused by wave reflection
TRUE {=2 waves with the same wave length moving in opposite directions}
A deep water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least:
1/2 of the wavelength
The maximum tidal range at the northern end of the Bay of Fundy is on the order of
17 meters (56 feet)
A full {lunar} tidal cycle is:
24 hours and 50 minutes
The section of the coast that is {exposed at low tide} and {submerged at high tide} is called:
Foreshore
Surface waters are pushed away from land and replaced by nutrient-rich bottom water through
Upwelling
Downwelling
Vertical movement of water to deeper parts of the ocean. Usually associated with {LOW primary productivity}. Important as carries oxygen from surface water to the deep
Upwelling
Vertical movement of water to the surface. Water is usually cold, rich in nutrients, gets {HIGH primary productivity} when the nutrient rich water is carried up to the light. Provides food for other organisms like fish.
The Bay of Fundy is well known for which tidal characteristic?
Very HIGH tidal range
A neap tide has
Very low tidal range
the LARGEST wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:
WESTERLIES
A wave will begin to break when
Water depth= wavelength/20
Geostrophic current
Water flow driven by gravity and modified by the Coriolis force
A wave train is cause by ___ _____ moving SLOWER than individual waves
Wave Energy
The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest is
Wave Height (wh) {False:wavelength}
Diameter of orbital waves at the surface
Wave height
Waves {converge on headlands} due to
Wave refraction
Deepest water depth of the circular motion of water molecules
Wavelength/ 2
the circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:
Wavelength/ 2
Deep water wave speed (S)
Wavelength/ period
Minimum depth for generation of deep-water waves
Wavelength/2
Neap tides occur
When the moon is in QUADRATURE
A tidal current can produce a rapidly spinning body of water called a vortex or:
Whirlpool
3 conditions necessary to produce a fully developed sea
Wind speed, duration, and fetch
Are all {Western} Boundary Currents of Sub Tropical Gyres WARM currents?
Yes
When {spring tides} coincide with {lunar perigee} the tidal range is _____
^ Increased ^ (perigee=largest tidal ranges when moon is closest to earth)
During winter months, {monsoon winds} over the Indian Ocean:
flow from LAND to SEA and are DRY
In terms of erosion protection from wave action: sea walls:
lead to erosion of sediment on their seaward sides
The time between 2 successive waves is called the:
period
which one doesn't fit? crest height length period trough
period
perigee
point in orbit of moon where moon is CLOSEST to earth -largest tidal range
apogee
point in orbit of the moon that is farthest from EARTH -smallest tidal ranges
Which doesn't belong? waning crescent waning gibbous waxing perigee waxing crescent waxing gibbous
waxing perigee
_______ can be generated by geological activity that causes a {sudden change in sea floor elevation} such a submarine fault motions
Tsunamis
Spring tide occurs about
Twice per Month
the first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a:
capillary wave
Western intensification causes:
-A steeper slope of surface water in the western section of the gyre as compare to the eastern section of the gyre -Equatorial countercurrents -The center of the gyre to be shift to the west -Very swift Western boundary currents
Depositional shore=
-Barrier island -Spit -Tombolo
3 Tidal Forces
-Gravitational -Centripetal -Resultant
Erosional Shore
-Sea Arches -Wave cut cliffs
Strong upwelling occurs in all of the following EXCEPT
-between the North and South Equatorial Currents -in areas of surface current divergence -in the area surrounding the Galapagos Islands *--->where deep ocean water currents are formed<----* -where water is constantly pushed away from a coastline
Tsunamis
-shallow water waves -generated by sudden changes in topography of ocean bottom -caused by events like avalanches, turbidity currents, fault motion -long wavelengths--exceeding 200km -fast wave speeds -as approaching shore, speed {decreases} while height {increases}
Deep ocean water masses have characteristic ____ and ______
-temperatures & -Salinity
Lunar tide= solar tide=
=tidal bulge generated by interaction of Earth and moon =tidal bulge generated by interaction of earth and sun
whirpool=
=vortex
Spit
A coastal feature of sand deposited in the direction of the longshore drift from shore toward deeper water into the mouth of a bay
Plunging Breaker
A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a....
A beach is
A deposit of the shore area
The barycenter follows:
A smooth orbit around the sun
Which of the following would you expect to find on a summertime beach?
A wide, sandy berm
The densest ocean water is
ABW
In the Atlantic, North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) sinks near Greenland and heads south along the ocean bottom. Antarctic Bottom Water (ABW) sinks off Antarctica and moves North along the ocean bottom. What happens when they meet?
ABW on bottom, NADW overrides it
Which one does NOT belong? A. Agulhas Current B. Benguela Current C. California Current D. Canary Current E. West Australian Current
Agulhas Current
Center of an open ocean tidal system {no tidal range here}
Amphidromic Point
The center of an open ocean tidal system is a/an:
Amphidromic point
The arrangement of water masses in the southern Atlantic Ocean from the surface to the bottom is:
Antarctic Intermediate Water, North Atlantic Deep Water, ABW
When the Earth is at its greatest distance from the sun, it is said to be at (tidal ranges are smallest here):
Aphelion
What happens to a {deep water wave} as it enters shallow water & eventually breaks?
As a wave approaches the shoreline from deep water, the circular orbit of water molecules within the wave begins to interact w/ the [bottom]. The circular orbit flattens out & forms an ELLIPSE= The TOP portion of the wave is traveling FASTER than the bottom. Water piles up when the height of the wave is 7 times the wavelength, the the water plunges forward creating {Breaking "surf"}==refraction
A semidiurnal pattern is common along the _____ coast of the US
Atlantic Coast
In the US, {semidiurnal} tides commonly occur along the
Atlantic Coast
The section of the coast that extends from normal HIGH tide level to the HIGHEST elevation on land that is affected by storm waves is called the
Backshore
The area of the barrier island complex that would contain thickets and woodlands would be the:
Barrier Flat
Describe the response of a barrier island to a rise in sea level. Why do some barrier islands develop peat deposits running through them from the ocean beach to the salt marsh?
Barrier islands are relatively long offshore deposits of sand that are oriented parallel to a coast. Rising sea level causes barrier islands to migrate landward. Peat deposits, which represent the accumulation of organic matter in marsh environments, are slowly buried as barrier islands migrate towards land in response to rising sea level.
The _____ follows a smooth orbit around the sun
Barycenter
The center of mass of the Earth- Moon system is called the:
Barycenter
Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion?
Beach nourishment Groin & Seawall are all used
If one were to walk from the ocean landward across a barrier island complex, in which order would one encounter the following environments?
Beach, dune, barrier flat, high marsh, low marsh
Off shore
Beyond the low tide breakers
Which of the following produces a tidal {current}?
Both EBB tides and FLOOD tides
Which of the following is a WESTERN boundary current?
Brazil Current
Compared to Western Boundary currents, {EASTERN Boundary Currents} are:
Broad & Slow
Which one does NOT belong? A. California Current B. Canary Current C. Gulf Stream D. North Atlantic Current E. North Equatorial Current
California Current
Eastern Boundary Currents
California Current Canary Current Peru Current W. Australian Current
The ______ force pulls an orbiting body toward the center of that orbit
Centripetal
Sediment is supplied to the coastal zone by:
Coastal Erosion Local Biological Activity & Rivers
When a meander from the Gulf Stream pinches off and isolates a body of water within the North Atlantic gyre, the body of water is called a:
Cold Core Ring
California Current
Cold Current, Northern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes, EASTERN BOUNDARY-Pacific
Canary Current
Cold Current, Northern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes-Atlantic
West Wind Drift
Cold Current, Polar Latitudes, Southern Hemisphere (very bottom, left to right)
Benguela Current
Cold current, Southern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes
Barrier flats
Colonized by grasses; very productive
What causes downwelling?
Convergence of surface currents
Which of the following landforms shows the LEAST amount of erosion along US coasts?
Crystalline bedrock of New England
The angular distance of the Sun or the Moon above or below the Earth's equatorial plane is called the:
Declination
___ ocean currents often move cold, dense water away from the poles
Deep
Compared to an Eastern Boundary current in a Gyre, which of the following statements is true for a {WESTERN Boundary Current}?
Deeper current Increased current velocity Warmer water Narrower current
Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called
Deltas
Thermohaline circulation is driven by:
Density differences
What is the main cause of {surface water sinking} to cause the deep, thermohaline ocean currents?
Density increase caused by cold in polar regions and increased salinity
Which statement concerning tides is TRUE?
Diurnal tides are a tidal pattern in which there in ONE high tide and ONE low tide in a {{LUNAR}} day
The worldwide effects of El Nino include all of the following EXCEPT
Drought in the US coastal states {Includes: coral reefs deaths in the pacific ocean, crop failure in phillipines, increased pacific cyclone activity, water shortages in Sri Lanka}
Water moving out from an inlet due to--> approaching low tide (reversing current, as the tide height drops)
Ebb Current
Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called a/an:
Ebb current Away from shore
Which of the following pairs does NOT belong together? -Atlantic-type coast: thick accumulations of sediment - emerging shorelines: drowned beaches - Pacific-type coast: earthquake activity - depositional shores: sand deposits and offshore barrier islands - submerging shorelines
Emerging Shorelines: Drowned Beaches ^do NOT pair together
Elevated wave-cut platforms in southern Cali are evidence that this coastal area is an:
Emerging shoreline
(T/F) A storm surge might form in association with a seafloor avalanche
FALSE
(T/F) Erosional coasts are characterized by features of accumulated sand/pebble/rock that are eroded elsewhere & deposited on shore where longshore currents slow:
FALSE
(T/F) The Pacific Coast of the US is generally experiencing greater erosion that the atlantic and gulf coasts
FALSE
(T/F) The Sun and Moon have relatively equal tide-generating forces on Earth
FALSE
(T/F) The nearshore is equivalent to the interidal zone
FALSE
(T/F) Tide ranges are much GREATER during apogee than perigee
FALSE
(T/F): Alternatives to hard stabilization to protect coastlines from erosion including construction restrictions, relocation of structures, and construction of sea walls
FALSE
(T/F): Deep Ocean water does not travel across the equator
FALSE
(T/F): Surface or wind-driven currents move water primarily in a vertical direction in the ocean.
FALSE
(T/F): The Gulf Stream moves water away from the equator; the Benguela current moves some of the same water back toward the equator:
FALSE
(T/F): Waves will cause much more erosion in an area that has a large tidal range when compared to an area with a small tidal range
FALSE
(T/F)Sea walls are quite effective at controlling beach erosion
FALSE
(T/F) An INCREASE in the spreading rate at a mid-ocean ridge will cause a DECREASE in sea level
FALSE {Faster spreading increases sea level}
(T/F) Thermohaline circulation is wind driven
FALSE -density differences-temp-salinity
(T/F): {Surface} ocean currents are vertical currents in the water column that are {density-driven}
FALSE wind driven
(T/F): Rogue waves are generated by {destructive} interference patterns of ocean swells
FALSE {>>constructive interference<< plays a role with rogue waves//ROGUE=constructive}
(T/F) A Lunar day is shorter than a solar day
FALSE {Lunar= 24 hr 50 min Solar= 24 hr}
(T/F): A spring tide occurs once per month
FALSE {Only in spring/// twice per month in spring months}
(T/F): A shallow water wave must form in a water depth less than 100 meters
FALSE {Water depth less than 1/20 of wave length}
(T/F) Internal waves are formed by the movement of water of different densities along air-water interface
FALSE {along the pycnocline// water-water interface}
(T/F) In the open ocean, the crests & troughs of tidal waves rotate around a cotidal line
FALSE {crests & troughs of the tidal waves rotate around an amphidromic point near the center of each cell}
(T/F): The speed of a shallow-water wave is a function of wave period
FALSE {determined by gravitational acceleration & water DEPTH}
(T/F) A tidal pattern with ONE high tide and ONE low tide each lunar day is called a semidiurnal tidal pattern
FALSE {diurnal tidal pattern}
(T/F) A diurnal pattern is common along the Pacific coast of the United States
FALSE {gulf of mexico}
(T/F) Longshore drift is a current that transports sand in a circular motion in a water column
FALSE {up and down the beach/parallel to the shore}
(T/F): The horizontal distance between 2 successive troughs is called the wave height
FALSE {wave LENGTH is true}
(T/F) A wave will break when wave steepness is equal to 1/20
FALSE {waves break when steepness exceeds 1/7}
(T/F): {Surface Currents} affect about 90% of the worlds ocean:
FALSE ---->10%
(T/F) The West Wind Drift occurs at 60 degrees N around the Arctic Circle
FALSE {40-55degrees}
(T/F) Tsunamis travel as deep-water waves over the open ocean
FALSE {Shallow water waves}
(T/F): An eastern boundary current is generally narrow and swift:
FALSE {they are broad and slow}
Which type of current flow moves in a circular path around a subtropical convergence, reflecting Ekman transport, gravity and the Coriolis effect?
Geostrophic circulation
in general the restoring force for most wind-general waves is:
Gravity
Geostrophic circulation within a gyre driven by:
Gravity & the Coriolis effect
Deep-water circulation brings dense, cold, oxygen -rich water from the surface to the deep ocean because of:
Greater dissolution of oxygen in colder water than warmer water
_____ are constructed for the purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are losing sand
Groining
Which US coastline has the greatest average loss due to erosion?
Gulf Coast
Which of the following is NOT an Eastern Boundary current?
Gulf Stream {California current, canary current, Peru current, Western Australian current-----These ARE}
Which one does NOT belong? A. Gulf of Alaska B. Indian C. North Atlantic D. South Atlantic E. South Pacific
Gulf of Alaska
If the side of the Earth that faces the moon experiences a HIGH tide, then the side of the Earth that is opposite from the moon will have a
High Tide
The velocity of longshore current will be _____ when the wave heights are higher
Higher
The tide-generating force varies:
INVERSELY with the cube of the distance between the objects
Compared to ABW-Antarctic Bottom Water- North Atlantic Deep Water is:
Lower in Oxygen
summer time vs. winter time beaches
Many coastline areas with beaches experience seasonal variations in wave activity. A summertime beach occurs when light wave activity produces a wide sandy berm and an overall steep beach face at the expense of the longshore bar. Heavier wave activity during the wintertime conversely produces a narrow rocky berm and an overall flattened beach face. Stronger wave action also results in a prominent longshore bar.
Eustatic changes in sea level might include:
Increased glacial melting due to global warming
As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:
Increases and its wave length decreases {Wave height^^^^ wave length vvvvvv}
The tide-generating FORCE is _____ proportional to the cube of the DISTANCE
Inversly
Which one does NOT belong? A. thermohaline circulation B. density-driven circulation C. Antarctic Bottom Water D. Kuroshio Current E. North Atlantic Deep Water
Kuroshio current
Compared with a solar day, a lunar day is:
LONGER than
Identify the mismatched pair from the choices below: -Agulhas Current, West Australia Current -Brazil Current, Benguela Current -Canary Current, Gulf Stream -Kuroshio Current, California Current -Labrador Current, Humboldt Current
Labrador Current, Humboldt Current
What is longshore drift & how is it related to longshore current?
Longshore CURRENT= the net motion of water parallel to the beach as a result of the zig zag movement of water due to run up (swash) and backwash within the swash zone along a shore -they can have speeds up to 4km/hr -longshore current increase as the beach slope increases, as wave height increases and as wave frequency increases Longshore DRIFT/ transport is the movement of sediment in a zig zag fashion caused by the longshore current
Gulf Stream
Northern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes, WARM Current (florida toward ireland)
Kuroshio Current
Northern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes, WARM Currents
An area that experiences diurnal tides will have:
ONE high tide and one low tide daily
Water waves are:
Orbital waves
In the US, {mixed} tides commonly occur along:
Pacific Coast
Which US coast is being most starved for sediments due to damming of rivers?
Pacific Coast
Tidal ranges will be GREATEST when the Earth and the Moon are at
Perigee {they are closest here}
Which one does NOT belong? A. Gulf Stream B. Kuroshio Current C. North Equatorial Current D. Peru Current E. Somali Current
Peru Current
Waves that are breaking along the shore & are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called:
Plunging breakers
Apehlion
Point in orbit of a planet or comet where it is furthest from the sun
The difference between {centripetal} forces & {gravitationa}l forces is called the:
Resultant Force
{Narrow} currents flowing across the surf zone toward the open ocean are called:
Rip currents
Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation?
Sea, swell, surf
A {summer} recreational beach typically has more ______ on it than a {winter }recreational beach
Sediment
the effects of severe El Niño events
Severe El Niño events can be associated with {{ecological and economic disaster}} In areas that normally experience upwelling, specifically the tropical eastern Pacific. A strong El Niño event brings warm water into an area and may even result in downwelling instead of upwelling. Marine life dependent upon upwelling of nutrient-rich waters is adversely affected. Areas normally experiencing arid conditions may receive above-normal precipitation, while normally wet areas may experience the opposite effect
(T/F):The 5 subtropical gyres exhibit geostrophic flow, related to pressure gradients, friction, and the Coriolis effect:
TRUE {the 5 are-North atlantic gyre, south atlantic gyre, north pacific gyre, south pacific gyre, indian ocean gyre}
Which of the following is true of surface water circulation near Antarctica?
TWO circumpolar currents dominate it, one current that moves water to the EAST and one current that moves water to the WEST
An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have:
TWO high tides and two low tides of nearly EQUAL height daily
A tsunami may result from:
Tectonic activity on the seafloor
Which of the following landforms shows the greatest erosion rate along US coasts?
The Mississippi River Delta
__________ was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim to issue tsunami warnings to 25 pacific rim nations when data suggest a tsunami imminent/
The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC)
Disturbing Force
The energy that causes ocean waves to form
The energy of ________ can be harnessed to {drive turbines} and {generate electricity}
Tidal currents
If the {resultant force} has a significant horizontal component (tangential to Earth's surface), it produces tidal bulges on Earth, creating what are known as:
Tide Generating Forces
neap tides
Tides of minimal range occurring about every 2 weeks when the moon is either 1st or 3rd quarter moon phase
Describe the location of the western boundary and eastern boundary current within a gyre.
The purpose of a {gyre} is to TRANSPORT HEAT from lower latitudes resulting from an excess of solar input to cooler, higher latitudes where there is a deficit of solar heating. Western boundary currents transport warm water from the equator toward the poles whereas the eastern boundary currents transport cool water from the poles toward the equator. >>>>Gyres exist to balance the Earth's heat budget by redistributing heat from lower latitudes to higher latitudes.<<<<
The El Nino Southern Oscillation can best be described as:
The relationship between sea surface temperature and changing atmospheric pressure
Isostatic movement of a coastline might occur due to:
The removal of a large glacier that rested in that area
The Ekman Spiral is caused by
The wind and the Coriolis effect
When sea floor spreading rates increase:
There is a rise in sea level
This wave formed on a river by a flood current is called a/an:
Tidal Bore
formed on a river by the flood tide current--a wave of water, moving up a river, initiated by tidal action & normal resonances within a river estuary
Tidal Bore
Rotary
Tidal CURRENT
Ebb
Tidal CURRENT {water moves AWAY from shores}
Gravitational
Tidal FORCE
Resultant
Tidal FORCE {difference between supplied & required forces}
Centripetal
Tidal FORCE {required 2 keep planets in their orbits}, pulls objects INWARD}
Diurnal
Tidal PATTERN
Mixed
Tidal PATTERN
The vertical difference between consecutive high & low tides is called the
Tidal Range
Equatorial currents are driven by the:
Trade Winds
The MAX tidal currents are reported:
about half way between high and low tides
The seaward flow of water through an inlet (such as bay//river) due to a tidal force is called _______
an Ebb Current
Winter beaches
are narrower than summer beaches due to high-energy waves during the winter
An internal wave might form
at a density boundary within the ocean (water-water interface)
Which does not fit? barrier flat beach face berm longshore bar trough
barrier flat
All of the following are typically characteristics of erosional shores except: -headlands -wave cut cliffs -deltas -sea caves -sea arches
deltas
Deep Ocean currents are driven primarily by____ and modified by_______
density differences; differences in salinity & temperature
Barrier island
depositional shore
spit
depositional shore
tombolo
depositional shore
The plane through the ellipse that marks the revolution of the Earth around the sun is called ______
ecliptic
Emerging shoreline vs submerging shoreline
emerging= coastline in which geological processes has lowered sea level the marine coastline is an example of this in Eastern US bc the removal of glaciers has resulted in isostatic rebounding causing the area to rise bc the weight of glacier is no longer a downward force -the pacific northwest bc of tectonic activity that uplifted the area submerging= form when sea level rises and inundates low lying areas -drowned river valleys (sydney harbor, chesapeke bay, -they exist in southern US where seal level rose at the end of last ice age, frowning the continental shelf around the florida peninsula and many river valleys along atlantic coast
Sea arches
erosional shore
wave-cut cliffs
erosional shore
Erosional coasts vs. depositional coasts
erosional= geologically new coastlines in contrats to depositional (which are older) -losing parent rock material to physical processes such as high waves and high water velocity depositional= gain more material than is lost as a result of water depositing sediments along the coastline
All of the following are typically characteristic of {depositional shores} excpet: -spits -bay mouth bars -marine terraces -tombolos -barrier islands
except {marine terraces}
SUBmerging shorelines might have all of the following except: -drowned beaches -drowned river delta -marine terraces -river mouths found below sea level -submerged dune topography
except: Marine terraces {marine terraces are-emerging shorelines}
{Emerging shorelines} might have all of the following characteristics except: -cliffs -drowned beaches -exposed wave-cut bench -marine terraces -shell debris found well above current shorelines
except: drowned beaches
Foreshore
exposed at low tide and covered at high tide
Longshore current
flows {parallel} to shore within {surf zone}
Sea caves and sea stacks are more likely to occur in an area with
hard bedrock
A spring tide
has very HIGH high tides and very LOW low tides
which one doesn't fit? internal wave capillary wave gravity wave wind sea or sea area
internal wave
The particle size on a beach:
is related to whatever material is locally available
Eroded material is carried along coastlines from high wave energy areas to:
low wave energy areas
the different ways that ocean currents are measured.
measurements of velocity and direction and velocity for surface and subsurface current flow. measured directly or indirectly. Direct methods of ocean currents are floating devices that are can be tracked over time or fixed devices. Indirect methods consist of determining the internal distribution of water density and the corresponding pressure gradient, radar/satellite altimeters to produce dynamic topography maps, and Doppler flow meters to determine subsurface water movement.
Ocean waves
movement of air across the {air-water interface}
Atmospheric waves
movement of different air masses along an {air-air interface}
Which doesn't belong? aphelion nadir apogee perigee perhihelion
nadir
Which doesn't belong? neap tide ebb current ebb tide flood current flood tide
neap tide {tide of minimal range, occurring every 2 to 3 weeks when moon either 1st or 3rd quarter phase}
North Easters affect which area of the US coast line during the fall and winter months?
northern Atlantic Coast
Barrier islands are:
offshore islands made of sand deposited {parallel to the shoreline} creating a protective barrier for the coastline
Waves at the ocean surface are called _____ or______ waves
orbital or interface waves
Which doesn't belong? diurnal semidiurnal mixed quadrature mixed semidiurnal
quadrature
How is wave refraction different from wave reflection?
refraction= the slowing & bending of waves in {shallow} water -happens as the waves move from deeper water into shallow water, the forward speed of the wave slows down.= why waves seem to take the shape of the shoreline reflection= when a wave hits a solid object such as seawall, jetty, island or some other solid structure, its reflected off the object in the opposite direction with {little loss of wave energy}
which one doesn't fit? Longitudinal orbital progressive spilling tranverse
spilling
Which does not fit? bay mouth bar delta sea stack spit tombolo
sea stack
All of the following are alternatives to hard stabilization EXCEPT: seawalls beach replenishment construction restrictions relocation beach renourishment
seawalls
A tsunami is considered to be a
shallow water wave
CONSTRUCTIVE interference results in {larger} waves whereas DESTRUCTIVE interference produces...
smaller waves
Spring tides vs. Neap tides
spring= -when earth, moon and sun are arranged in 180 pattern -lunar tide and solar tide are additive,constructive interference, producing maximum high tides and low tides. neap= -occurr when sun, earth and moon are arranged in 90 degree angle -means the lunar tide & solar tide ar ein destructive interference, minimizing high & low tides
Which one does NOT belong? A. Australian drought B. decreased fish stock in coastal Peru C. flooding rains in southeastern U.S. D. Peruvian upwelling stops E. strong trade winds
strong trade winds
which one doesn't fit? plunging breaker spilling breaker surf surging breaker swell
swell
The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called ______
the sea//sea area
The _____ is found between the normal high tide mark & the coast line
the backshore
the fetch refers to
the distance over which the wind blows without interruption
Deep water waves move FASTER than shallow water waves because:
they are not slowed by {friction} with the ocean bottom
In the Southern Hemisphere, the direction of Ekman transport is always:
to the LEFT of the wind direction
Which does not fit? marine terrace sea arches sea caves tombolo wave cut cliffs
tombolo
the speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:
water depth
the diameter of a water orbital at the surface is equal to:
wave height
Standing waves may be caused by:
wave reflection
Wave energy is focused on headlands due to ____ _____
wave refraction
the speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:
wave speed or celerity
The ratio of wave height to wavelength:
wave steepness
wave speed is equal to:
wavelength divided by period
Orbital waves
waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal(push/pull) and transverse(side to side) waves
The longshore current is cause by:
waves striking the beach at an angle
Rogue waves tend to occur
where storm waves move {against strong surface currents}
compare {shallow} waters and {deep} water waves
where the water depth is GREATER than 1/2 the wavelength---at this depth the water deep enough so that water travels in a circular ellipse without interacting with the ocean bottom -FASTER than shallow waves-- not affected by the sea floor. -Shallow=occur when water depth is LESS than 1/2 the wavelength.-- the lower wave orbitals interact with the shallow sea floor &are slowed as their orbital paths are flattened.--thus these move SLOWER than deep waves
the {height of a wave} depends upon
wind Duration, Fetch, and wind Speed (DFS)
Surface Ocean currents are driven primarily by ____ and modified by______
wind; the coriolis effect and land
Most ocean waves form as a result of
winds blowing across the ocean surface
Eustatic changes in sea level refer to:
world wide changes in volume of seawater or in the volume of the ocean basins
Differentiate between {apogee and perigee} and briefly discuss the effect on tidal height when perigee coincides with spring tide.
{Apogee} occurs when the moon is at the [[greatest distance]] from the Earth and {perigee} occurs when the moon is [[closest to the Earth]] When perigee occurs simultaneously with spring tide ( at spring tide, the moon, Earth, and sun are aligned at 180° and solar and lunar tides are additive), an excessively HIGH tide occurs which can produce significant coastal flooding.
Compare and contrast western boundary currents and eastern boundary currents.
{Western boundary} currents carry [[warm water]] from the equator northward along the western side of an ocean basin. fast and relatively deep and narrow. {Eastern boundary} currents carry [[cool water]] from the poles southward along the eastern side of an ocean basin. slow, shallow and broad