OCNG Exam 3-review

All are true of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current EXCEPT:

----->the Antarctic circumpolar current contributes tot he develipment of Antarctic bottom water in the Weddel Sea<---- -it contributes to upwelling off the antarctic coast producing an area of high primacy productivity in antarctic summer -it flows in a counterclockwise direction around the souther hemisphere at 60 degrees South Lat -is in the opposite direction to the East Wind Drift, a current the flows close to the Antarctic continent -created by the prevailing winds at that latitude

The most common tidal pattern around the world are

Mixed Tides

______ are {seasonal pressure systems} that develop at lower latitudes over continents which cause changes in seasonal winds and precipitation patterns.

Monsoons

Internal Wave

Movement of water of different densities along a {water-water interface}

Rip Current

Moves water from swash zone OUT to sea

smallest tidal range in the lunar cycle

NEAP tide

Which doesn't belong? full moon neap tide new moon spring tide syzygy

Neap tide

Ekman Transport

Net water movement to the LEFT or RIGHT of the direction of the wind

If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?

Spilling breakers

A {linear ridge of sediment} attached to land at one end might be called a

Spit

highest/max range in the lunar cycle

Spring Tide

Ratio of wave height to wavelength at which waves break

Steepness= 1:7

Sources of deep water in the ocean include all of the following EXCEPT:

Subtropical Convergences

What is true of surface ocean currents?

Surface currents form circular patterns in the major ocean basins called "gyres"

waves that are moving {{faster than local wind}} & are sorted out by {wave length} are called:

Swell

(T/F) Syzygy produces maximum tides once every 1,600 years if the relative positions of the Sun to the Earth and the Moon to the Earth are just right

TRUE

(T/F) The Gulf Coast of the US is an example of a coast where {tectonic subsidence} is occuring

TRUE

(T/F) There is no horizontal tide-generating force on Earth at points directly below & opposite the moon

TRUE

(T/F): A {Doppler} flow meter is a scientific instrument used to {measure current flow rates}

TRUE

(T/F): Downwelling may be the results of winds blowing parallel to a coastline or the convergence of surface currents

TRUE

(T/F): Dynamic {topography} can be used to determine {current}direction and velocity

TRUE

(T/F): Grunion depend upon a tide-related pattern of {erosion & deposition} of sand for the survival of their eggs

TRUE

(T/F): In the NORTHERN hemisphere, {Ekman Transport} pushes surface water to the RIGHT of the wind direction

TRUE

(T/F): The main current in Antarctic waters is the Antarctic Circumpolar Current, also called the West Wind Drift:

TRUE

(T/F): The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by 2

TRUE

(T/F): The {Circular movement} of surface water currents driven by the {major wind belts} are called GYRES

TRUE

(T/F): {Western boundary currents} such as- the Gulf Stream- transport warm water from the tropics toward higher latitudes:

TRUE

(T/F):During its time in the deep ocean, deep water can become enriched in oxygen

TRUE

(T/F)The coastal area affected by surf is referred to as the beach

TRUE

(T/F) A standing wave can be caused by wave reflection

TRUE {=2 waves with the same wave length moving in opposite directions}

A deep water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least:

1/2 of the wavelength

The maximum tidal range at the northern end of the Bay of Fundy is on the order of

17 meters (56 feet)

A full {lunar} tidal cycle is:

24 hours and 50 minutes

The section of the coast that is {exposed at low tide} and {submerged at high tide} is called:

Foreshore

Surface waters are pushed away from land and replaced by nutrient-rich bottom water through

Upwelling

Downwelling

Vertical movement of water to deeper parts of the ocean. Usually associated with {LOW primary productivity}. Important as carries oxygen from surface water to the deep

Upwelling

Vertical movement of water to the surface. Water is usually cold, rich in nutrients, gets {HIGH primary productivity} when the nutrient rich water is carried up to the light. Provides food for other organisms like fish.

The Bay of Fundy is well known for which tidal characteristic?

Very HIGH tidal range

A neap tide has

Very low tidal range

the LARGEST wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:

WESTERLIES

A wave will begin to break when

Water depth= wavelength/20

Geostrophic current

Water flow driven by gravity and modified by the Coriolis force

A wave train is cause by ___ _____ moving SLOWER than individual waves

Wave Energy

The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest is

Wave Height (wh) {False:wavelength}

Diameter of orbital waves at the surface

Wave height

Waves {converge on headlands} due to

Wave refraction

Deepest water depth of the circular motion of water molecules

Wavelength/ 2

the circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:

Wavelength/ 2

Deep water wave speed (S)

Wavelength/ period

Minimum depth for generation of deep-water waves

Wavelength/2

Neap tides occur

When the moon is in QUADRATURE

A tidal current can produce a rapidly spinning body of water called a vortex or:

Whirlpool

3 conditions necessary to produce a fully developed sea

Wind speed, duration, and fetch

Are all {Western} Boundary Currents of Sub Tropical Gyres WARM currents?

Yes

When {spring tides} coincide with {lunar perigee} the tidal range is _____

^ Increased ^ (perigee=largest tidal ranges when moon is closest to earth)

During winter months, {monsoon winds} over the Indian Ocean:

flow from LAND to SEA and are DRY

In terms of erosion protection from wave action: sea walls:

lead to erosion of sediment on their seaward sides

The time between 2 successive waves is called the:

period

which one doesn't fit? crest height length period trough

period

perigee

point in orbit of moon where moon is CLOSEST to earth -largest tidal range

apogee

point in orbit of the moon that is farthest from EARTH -smallest tidal ranges

Which doesn't belong? waning crescent waning gibbous waxing perigee waxing crescent waxing gibbous

waxing perigee

_______ can be generated by geological activity that causes a {sudden change in sea floor elevation} such a submarine fault motions

Tsunamis

Spring tide occurs about

Twice per Month

the first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a:

capillary wave

Western intensification causes:

-A steeper slope of surface water in the western section of the gyre as compare to the eastern section of the gyre -Equatorial countercurrents -The center of the gyre to be shift to the west -Very swift Western boundary currents

Depositional shore=

-Barrier island -Spit -Tombolo

3 Tidal Forces

-Gravitational -Centripetal -Resultant

Erosional Shore

-Sea Arches -Wave cut cliffs

Strong upwelling occurs in all of the following EXCEPT

-between the North and South Equatorial Currents -in areas of surface current divergence -in the area surrounding the Galapagos Islands *--->where deep ocean water currents are formed<----* -where water is constantly pushed away from a coastline

Tsunamis

-shallow water waves -generated by sudden changes in topography of ocean bottom -caused by events like avalanches, turbidity currents, fault motion -long wavelengths--exceeding 200km -fast wave speeds -as approaching shore, speed {decreases} while height {increases}

Deep ocean water masses have characteristic ____ and ______

-temperatures & -Salinity

Lunar tide= solar tide=

=tidal bulge generated by interaction of Earth and moon =tidal bulge generated by interaction of earth and sun

whirpool=

=vortex

Spit

A coastal feature of sand deposited in the direction of the longshore drift from shore toward deeper water into the mouth of a bay

Plunging Breaker

A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a....

A beach is

A deposit of the shore area

The barycenter follows:

A smooth orbit around the sun

Which of the following would you expect to find on a summertime beach?

A wide, sandy berm

The densest ocean water is

ABW

In the Atlantic, North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) sinks near Greenland and heads south along the ocean bottom. Antarctic Bottom Water (ABW) sinks off Antarctica and moves North along the ocean bottom. What happens when they meet?

ABW on bottom, NADW overrides it

Which one does NOT belong? A. Agulhas Current B. Benguela Current C. California Current D. Canary Current E. West Australian Current

Agulhas Current

Center of an open ocean tidal system {no tidal range here}

Amphidromic Point

The center of an open ocean tidal system is a/an:

Amphidromic point

The arrangement of water masses in the southern Atlantic Ocean from the surface to the bottom is:

Antarctic Intermediate Water, North Atlantic Deep Water, ABW

When the Earth is at its greatest distance from the sun, it is said to be at (tidal ranges are smallest here):

Aphelion

What happens to a {deep water wave} as it enters shallow water & eventually breaks?

As a wave approaches the shoreline from deep water, the circular orbit of water molecules within the wave begins to interact w/ the [bottom]. The circular orbit flattens out & forms an ELLIPSE= The TOP portion of the wave is traveling FASTER than the bottom. Water piles up when the height of the wave is 7 times the wavelength, the the water plunges forward creating {Breaking "surf"}==refraction

A semidiurnal pattern is common along the _____ coast of the US

Atlantic Coast

In the US, {semidiurnal} tides commonly occur along the

Atlantic Coast

The section of the coast that extends from normal HIGH tide level to the HIGHEST elevation on land that is affected by storm waves is called the

Backshore

The area of the barrier island complex that would contain thickets and woodlands would be the:

Barrier Flat

Describe the response of a barrier island to a rise in sea level. Why do some barrier islands develop peat deposits running through them from the ocean beach to the salt marsh?

Barrier islands are relatively long offshore deposits of sand that are oriented parallel to a coast. Rising sea level causes barrier islands to migrate landward. Peat deposits, which represent the accumulation of organic matter in marsh environments, are slowly buried as barrier islands migrate towards land in response to rising sea level.

The _____ follows a smooth orbit around the sun

Barycenter

The center of mass of the Earth- Moon system is called the:

Barycenter

Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion?

Beach nourishment Groin & Seawall are all used

If one were to walk from the ocean landward across a barrier island complex, in which order would one encounter the following environments?

Beach, dune, barrier flat, high marsh, low marsh

Off shore

Beyond the low tide breakers

Which of the following produces a tidal {current}?

Both EBB tides and FLOOD tides

Which of the following is a WESTERN boundary current?

Brazil Current

Compared to Western Boundary currents, {EASTERN Boundary Currents} are:

Broad & Slow

Which one does NOT belong? A. California Current B. Canary Current C. Gulf Stream D. North Atlantic Current E. North Equatorial Current

California Current

Eastern Boundary Currents

California Current Canary Current Peru Current W. Australian Current

The ______ force pulls an orbiting body toward the center of that orbit

Centripetal

Sediment is supplied to the coastal zone by:

Coastal Erosion Local Biological Activity & Rivers

When a meander from the Gulf Stream pinches off and isolates a body of water within the North Atlantic gyre, the body of water is called a:

Cold Core Ring

California Current

Cold Current, Northern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes, EASTERN BOUNDARY-Pacific

Canary Current

Cold Current, Northern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes-Atlantic

West Wind Drift

Cold Current, Polar Latitudes, Southern Hemisphere (very bottom, left to right)

Benguela Current

Cold current, Southern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes

Barrier flats

Colonized by grasses; very productive

What causes downwelling?

Convergence of surface currents

Which of the following landforms shows the LEAST amount of erosion along US coasts?

Crystalline bedrock of New England

The angular distance of the Sun or the Moon above or below the Earth's equatorial plane is called the:

Declination

___ ocean currents often move cold, dense water away from the poles

Deep

Compared to an Eastern Boundary current in a Gyre, which of the following statements is true for a {WESTERN Boundary Current}?

Deeper current Increased current velocity Warmer water Narrower current

Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called

Deltas

Thermohaline circulation is driven by:

Density differences

What is the main cause of {surface water sinking} to cause the deep, thermohaline ocean currents?

Density increase caused by cold in polar regions and increased salinity

Which statement concerning tides is TRUE?

Diurnal tides are a tidal pattern in which there in ONE high tide and ONE low tide in a {{LUNAR}} day

The worldwide effects of El Nino include all of the following EXCEPT

Drought in the US coastal states {Includes: coral reefs deaths in the pacific ocean, crop failure in phillipines, increased pacific cyclone activity, water shortages in Sri Lanka}

Water moving out from an inlet due to--> approaching low tide (reversing current, as the tide height drops)

Ebb Current

Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called a/an:

Ebb current Away from shore

Which of the following pairs does NOT belong together? -Atlantic-type coast: thick accumulations of sediment - emerging shorelines: drowned beaches - Pacific-type coast: earthquake activity - depositional shores: sand deposits and offshore barrier islands - submerging shorelines

Emerging Shorelines: Drowned Beaches ^do NOT pair together

Elevated wave-cut platforms in southern Cali are evidence that this coastal area is an:

Emerging shoreline

(T/F) A storm surge might form in association with a seafloor avalanche

FALSE

(T/F) Erosional coasts are characterized by features of accumulated sand/pebble/rock that are eroded elsewhere & deposited on shore where longshore currents slow:

FALSE

(T/F) The Pacific Coast of the US is generally experiencing greater erosion that the atlantic and gulf coasts

FALSE

(T/F) The Sun and Moon have relatively equal tide-generating forces on Earth

FALSE

(T/F) The nearshore is equivalent to the interidal zone

FALSE

(T/F) Tide ranges are much GREATER during apogee than perigee

FALSE

(T/F): Alternatives to hard stabilization to protect coastlines from erosion including construction restrictions, relocation of structures, and construction of sea walls

FALSE

(T/F): Deep Ocean water does not travel across the equator

FALSE

(T/F): Surface or wind-driven currents move water primarily in a vertical direction in the ocean.

FALSE

(T/F): The Gulf Stream moves water away from the equator; the Benguela current moves some of the same water back toward the equator:

FALSE

(T/F): Waves will cause much more erosion in an area that has a large tidal range when compared to an area with a small tidal range

FALSE

(T/F)Sea walls are quite effective at controlling beach erosion

FALSE

(T/F) An INCREASE in the spreading rate at a mid-ocean ridge will cause a DECREASE in sea level

FALSE {Faster spreading increases sea level}

(T/F) Thermohaline circulation is wind driven

FALSE -density differences-temp-salinity

(T/F): {Surface} ocean currents are vertical currents in the water column that are {density-driven}

FALSE wind driven

(T/F): Rogue waves are generated by {destructive} interference patterns of ocean swells

FALSE {>>constructive interference<< plays a role with rogue waves//ROGUE=constructive}

(T/F) A Lunar day is shorter than a solar day

FALSE {Lunar= 24 hr 50 min Solar= 24 hr}

(T/F): A spring tide occurs once per month

FALSE {Only in spring/// twice per month in spring months}

(T/F): A shallow water wave must form in a water depth less than 100 meters

FALSE {Water depth less than 1/20 of wave length}

(T/F) Internal waves are formed by the movement of water of different densities along air-water interface

FALSE {along the pycnocline// water-water interface}

(T/F) In the open ocean, the crests & troughs of tidal waves rotate around a cotidal line

FALSE {crests & troughs of the tidal waves rotate around an amphidromic point near the center of each cell}

(T/F): The speed of a shallow-water wave is a function of wave period

FALSE {determined by gravitational acceleration & water DEPTH}

(T/F) A tidal pattern with ONE high tide and ONE low tide each lunar day is called a semidiurnal tidal pattern

FALSE {diurnal tidal pattern}

(T/F) A diurnal pattern is common along the Pacific coast of the United States

FALSE {gulf of mexico}

(T/F) Longshore drift is a current that transports sand in a circular motion in a water column

FALSE {up and down the beach/parallel to the shore}

(T/F): The horizontal distance between 2 successive troughs is called the wave height

FALSE {wave LENGTH is true}

(T/F) A wave will break when wave steepness is equal to 1/20

FALSE {waves break when steepness exceeds 1/7}

(T/F): {Surface Currents} affect about 90% of the worlds ocean:

FALSE ---->10%

(T/F) The West Wind Drift occurs at 60 degrees N around the Arctic Circle

FALSE {40-55degrees}

(T/F) Tsunamis travel as deep-water waves over the open ocean

FALSE {Shallow water waves}

(T/F): An eastern boundary current is generally narrow and swift:

FALSE {they are broad and slow}

Which type of current flow moves in a circular path around a subtropical convergence, reflecting Ekman transport, gravity and the Coriolis effect?

Geostrophic circulation

in general the restoring force for most wind-general waves is:

Gravity

Geostrophic circulation within a gyre driven by:

Gravity & the Coriolis effect

Deep-water circulation brings dense, cold, oxygen -rich water from the surface to the deep ocean because of:

Greater dissolution of oxygen in colder water than warmer water

_____ are constructed for the purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are losing sand

Groining

Which US coastline has the greatest average loss due to erosion?

Gulf Coast

Which of the following is NOT an Eastern Boundary current?

Gulf Stream {California current, canary current, Peru current, Western Australian current-----These ARE}

Which one does NOT belong? A. Gulf of Alaska B. Indian C. North Atlantic D. South Atlantic E. South Pacific

Gulf of Alaska

If the side of the Earth that faces the moon experiences a HIGH tide, then the side of the Earth that is opposite from the moon will have a

High Tide

The velocity of longshore current will be _____ when the wave heights are higher

Higher

The tide-generating force varies:

INVERSELY with the cube of the distance between the objects

Compared to ABW-Antarctic Bottom Water- North Atlantic Deep Water is:

Lower in Oxygen

summer time vs. winter time beaches

Many coastline areas with beaches experience seasonal variations in wave activity. A summertime beach occurs when light wave activity produces a wide sandy berm and an overall steep beach face at the expense of the longshore bar. Heavier wave activity during the wintertime conversely produces a narrow rocky berm and an overall flattened beach face. Stronger wave action also results in a prominent longshore bar.

Eustatic changes in sea level might include:

Increased glacial melting due to global warming

As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:

Increases and its wave length decreases {Wave height^^^^ wave length vvvvvv}

The tide-generating FORCE is _____ proportional to the cube of the DISTANCE

Inversly

Which one does NOT belong? A. thermohaline circulation B. density-driven circulation C. Antarctic Bottom Water D. Kuroshio Current E. North Atlantic Deep Water

Kuroshio current

Compared with a solar day, a lunar day is:

LONGER than

Identify the mismatched pair from the choices below: -Agulhas Current, West Australia Current -Brazil Current, Benguela Current -Canary Current, Gulf Stream -Kuroshio Current, California Current -Labrador Current, Humboldt Current

Labrador Current, Humboldt Current

What is longshore drift & how is it related to longshore current?

Longshore CURRENT= the net motion of water parallel to the beach as a result of the zig zag movement of water due to run up (swash) and backwash within the swash zone along a shore -they can have speeds up to 4km/hr -longshore current increase as the beach slope increases, as wave height increases and as wave frequency increases Longshore DRIFT/ transport is the movement of sediment in a zig zag fashion caused by the longshore current

Gulf Stream

Northern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes, WARM Current (florida toward ireland)

Kuroshio Current

Northern Hemisphere, Temperate Latitudes, WARM Currents

An area that experiences diurnal tides will have:

ONE high tide and one low tide daily

Water waves are:

Orbital waves

In the US, {mixed} tides commonly occur along:

Pacific Coast

Which US coast is being most starved for sediments due to damming of rivers?

Pacific Coast

Tidal ranges will be GREATEST when the Earth and the Moon are at

Perigee {they are closest here}

Which one does NOT belong? A. Gulf Stream B. Kuroshio Current C. North Equatorial Current D. Peru Current E. Somali Current

Peru Current

Waves that are breaking along the shore & are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called:

Plunging breakers

Apehlion

Point in orbit of a planet or comet where it is furthest from the sun

The difference between {centripetal} forces & {gravitationa}l forces is called the:

Resultant Force

{Narrow} currents flowing across the surf zone toward the open ocean are called:

Rip currents

Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation?

Sea, swell, surf

A {summer} recreational beach typically has more ______ on it than a {winter }recreational beach

Sediment

the effects of severe El Niño events

Severe El Niño events can be associated with {{ecological and economic disaster}} In areas that normally experience upwelling, specifically the tropical eastern Pacific. A strong El Niño event brings warm water into an area and may even result in downwelling instead of upwelling. Marine life dependent upon upwelling of nutrient-rich waters is adversely affected. Areas normally experiencing arid conditions may receive above-normal precipitation, while normally wet areas may experience the opposite effect

(T/F):The 5 subtropical gyres exhibit geostrophic flow, related to pressure gradients, friction, and the Coriolis effect:

TRUE {the 5 are-North atlantic gyre, south atlantic gyre, north pacific gyre, south pacific gyre, indian ocean gyre}

Which of the following is true of surface water circulation near Antarctica?

TWO circumpolar currents dominate it, one current that moves water to the EAST and one current that moves water to the WEST

An area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have:

TWO high tides and two low tides of nearly EQUAL height daily

A tsunami may result from:

Tectonic activity on the seafloor

Which of the following landforms shows the greatest erosion rate along US coasts?

The Mississippi River Delta

__________ was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim to issue tsunami warnings to 25 pacific rim nations when data suggest a tsunami imminent/

The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC)

Disturbing Force

The energy that causes ocean waves to form

The energy of ________ can be harnessed to {drive turbines} and {generate electricity}

Tidal currents

If the {resultant force} has a significant horizontal component (tangential to Earth's surface), it produces tidal bulges on Earth, creating what are known as:

Tide Generating Forces

neap tides

Tides of minimal range occurring about every 2 weeks when the moon is either 1st or 3rd quarter moon phase

Describe the location of the western boundary and eastern boundary current within a gyre.

The purpose of a {gyre} is to TRANSPORT HEAT from lower latitudes resulting from an excess of solar input to cooler, higher latitudes where there is a deficit of solar heating. Western boundary currents transport warm water from the equator toward the poles whereas the eastern boundary currents transport cool water from the poles toward the equator. >>>>Gyres exist to balance the Earth's heat budget by redistributing heat from lower latitudes to higher latitudes.<<<<

The El Nino Southern Oscillation can best be described as:

The relationship between sea surface temperature and changing atmospheric pressure

Isostatic movement of a coastline might occur due to:

The removal of a large glacier that rested in that area

The Ekman Spiral is caused by

The wind and the Coriolis effect

When sea floor spreading rates increase:

There is a rise in sea level

This wave formed on a river by a flood current is called a/an:

Tidal Bore

formed on a river by the flood tide current--a wave of water, moving up a river, initiated by tidal action & normal resonances within a river estuary

Tidal Bore

Rotary

Tidal CURRENT

Ebb

Tidal CURRENT {water moves AWAY from shores}

Gravitational

Tidal FORCE

Resultant

Tidal FORCE {difference between supplied & required forces}

Centripetal

Tidal FORCE {required 2 keep planets in their orbits}, pulls objects INWARD}

Diurnal

Tidal PATTERN

Mixed

Tidal PATTERN

The vertical difference between consecutive high & low tides is called the

Tidal Range

Equatorial currents are driven by the:

Trade Winds

The MAX tidal currents are reported:

about half way between high and low tides

The seaward flow of water through an inlet (such as bay//river) due to a tidal force is called _______

an Ebb Current

Winter beaches

are narrower than summer beaches due to high-energy waves during the winter

An internal wave might form

at a density boundary within the ocean (water-water interface)

Which does not fit? barrier flat beach face berm longshore bar trough

barrier flat

All of the following are typically characteristics of erosional shores except: -headlands -wave cut cliffs -deltas -sea caves -sea arches

deltas

Deep Ocean currents are driven primarily by____ and modified by_______

density differences; differences in salinity & temperature

Barrier island

depositional shore

spit

depositional shore

tombolo

depositional shore

The plane through the ellipse that marks the revolution of the Earth around the sun is called ______

ecliptic

Emerging shoreline vs submerging shoreline

emerging= coastline in which geological processes has lowered sea level the marine coastline is an example of this in Eastern US bc the removal of glaciers has resulted in isostatic rebounding causing the area to rise bc the weight of glacier is no longer a downward force -the pacific northwest bc of tectonic activity that uplifted the area submerging= form when sea level rises and inundates low lying areas -drowned river valleys (sydney harbor, chesapeke bay, -they exist in southern US where seal level rose at the end of last ice age, frowning the continental shelf around the florida peninsula and many river valleys along atlantic coast

Sea arches

erosional shore

wave-cut cliffs

erosional shore

Erosional coasts vs. depositional coasts

erosional= geologically new coastlines in contrats to depositional (which are older) -losing parent rock material to physical processes such as high waves and high water velocity depositional= gain more material than is lost as a result of water depositing sediments along the coastline

All of the following are typically characteristic of {depositional shores} excpet: -spits -bay mouth bars -marine terraces -tombolos -barrier islands

except {marine terraces}

SUBmerging shorelines might have all of the following except: -drowned beaches -drowned river delta -marine terraces -river mouths found below sea level -submerged dune topography

except: Marine terraces {marine terraces are-emerging shorelines}

{Emerging shorelines} might have all of the following characteristics except: -cliffs -drowned beaches -exposed wave-cut bench -marine terraces -shell debris found well above current shorelines

except: drowned beaches

Foreshore

exposed at low tide and covered at high tide

Longshore current

flows {parallel} to shore within {surf zone}

Sea caves and sea stacks are more likely to occur in an area with

hard bedrock

A spring tide

has very HIGH high tides and very LOW low tides

which one doesn't fit? internal wave capillary wave gravity wave wind sea or sea area

internal wave

The particle size on a beach:

is related to whatever material is locally available

Eroded material is carried along coastlines from high wave energy areas to:

low wave energy areas

the different ways that ocean currents are measured.

measurements of velocity and direction and velocity for surface and subsurface current flow. measured directly or indirectly. Direct methods of ocean currents are floating devices that are can be tracked over time or fixed devices. Indirect methods consist of determining the internal distribution of water density and the corresponding pressure gradient, radar/satellite altimeters to produce dynamic topography maps, and Doppler flow meters to determine subsurface water movement.

Ocean waves

movement of air across the {air-water interface}

Atmospheric waves

movement of different air masses along an {air-air interface}

Which doesn't belong? aphelion nadir apogee perigee perhihelion

nadir

Which doesn't belong? neap tide ebb current ebb tide flood current flood tide

neap tide {tide of minimal range, occurring every 2 to 3 weeks when moon either 1st or 3rd quarter phase}

North Easters affect which area of the US coast line during the fall and winter months?

northern Atlantic Coast

Barrier islands are:

offshore islands made of sand deposited {parallel to the shoreline} creating a protective barrier for the coastline

Waves at the ocean surface are called _____ or______ waves

orbital or interface waves

Which doesn't belong? diurnal semidiurnal mixed quadrature mixed semidiurnal

quadrature

How is wave refraction different from wave reflection?

refraction= the slowing & bending of waves in {shallow} water -happens as the waves move from deeper water into shallow water, the forward speed of the wave slows down.= why waves seem to take the shape of the shoreline reflection= when a wave hits a solid object such as seawall, jetty, island or some other solid structure, its reflected off the object in the opposite direction with {little loss of wave energy}

which one doesn't fit? Longitudinal orbital progressive spilling tranverse

spilling

Which does not fit? bay mouth bar delta sea stack spit tombolo

sea stack

All of the following are alternatives to hard stabilization EXCEPT: seawalls beach replenishment construction restrictions relocation beach renourishment

seawalls

A tsunami is considered to be a

shallow water wave

CONSTRUCTIVE interference results in {larger} waves whereas DESTRUCTIVE interference produces...

smaller waves

Spring tides vs. Neap tides

spring= -when earth, moon and sun are arranged in 180 pattern -lunar tide and solar tide are additive,constructive interference, producing maximum high tides and low tides. neap= -occurr when sun, earth and moon are arranged in 90 degree angle -means the lunar tide & solar tide ar ein destructive interference, minimizing high & low tides

Which one does NOT belong? A. Australian drought B. decreased fish stock in coastal Peru C. flooding rains in southeastern U.S. D. Peruvian upwelling stops E. strong trade winds

strong trade winds

which one doesn't fit? plunging breaker spilling breaker surf surging breaker swell

swell

The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called ______

the sea//sea area

The _____ is found between the normal high tide mark & the coast line

the backshore

the fetch refers to

the distance over which the wind blows without interruption

Deep water waves move FASTER than shallow water waves because:

they are not slowed by {friction} with the ocean bottom

In the Southern Hemisphere, the direction of Ekman transport is always:

to the LEFT of the wind direction

Which does not fit? marine terrace sea arches sea caves tombolo wave cut cliffs

tombolo

the speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:

water depth

the diameter of a water orbital at the surface is equal to:

wave height

Standing waves may be caused by:

wave reflection

Wave energy is focused on headlands due to ____ _____

wave refraction

the speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:

wave speed or celerity

The ratio of wave height to wavelength:

wave steepness

wave speed is equal to:

wavelength divided by period

Orbital waves

waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal(push/pull) and transverse(side to side) waves

The longshore current is cause by:

waves striking the beach at an angle

Rogue waves tend to occur

where storm waves move {against strong surface currents}

compare {shallow} waters and {deep} water waves

where the water depth is GREATER than 1/2 the wavelength---at this depth the water deep enough so that water travels in a circular ellipse without interacting with the ocean bottom -FASTER than shallow waves-- not affected by the sea floor. -Shallow=occur when water depth is LESS than 1/2 the wavelength.-- the lower wave orbitals interact with the shallow sea floor &are slowed as their orbital paths are flattened.--thus these move SLOWER than deep waves

the {height of a wave} depends upon

wind Duration, Fetch, and wind Speed (DFS)

Surface Ocean currents are driven primarily by ____ and modified by______

wind; the coriolis effect and land

Most ocean waves form as a result of

winds blowing across the ocean surface

Eustatic changes in sea level refer to:

world wide changes in volume of seawater or in the volume of the ocean basins

Differentiate between {apogee and perigee} and briefly discuss the effect on tidal height when perigee coincides with spring tide.

{Apogee} occurs when the moon is at the [[greatest distance]] from the Earth and {perigee} occurs when the moon is [[closest to the Earth]] When perigee occurs simultaneously with spring tide ( at spring tide, the moon, Earth, and sun are aligned at 180° and solar and lunar tides are additive), an excessively HIGH tide occurs which can produce significant coastal flooding.

Compare and contrast western boundary currents and eastern boundary currents.

{Western boundary} currents carry [[warm water]] from the equator northward along the western side of an ocean basin. fast and relatively deep and narrow. {Eastern boundary} currents carry [[cool water]] from the poles southward along the eastern side of an ocean basin. slow, shallow and broad