Textiles Sciences FINAL EXAM Chapters 16, 17, 18, 19

Rinsing

-The combining and reducing of finishing steps to remove any residue from the finish -combining and simplifying processes saves time, energy, and water

Plasma Technology

-a type of neutral, highly ionized gas or vapor that is distinct from solid, liquid, or gas -a new way of applying thin, inexpensive, functional coatings to fabric

Enzyme Finishes

-alternate to use of synthetic and inorganic chemicals -sustainable -uses less water -functions at lower temperatures -requires less waste water treatment -produces fabric with better hand and less damage

Computer Control

-automatically correct processes, fabric tension, solutions, and temperatures -less labor, high quality finished goods -combines steps to decrease cost and environmental impact

environmental impact concerns

-finishing systems control air pollution and disposal of hazardous waste -reduce the use of water, chemicals, and energy >>minimize water use (foam and solvent finishing instead) or reclaim, recycle, and reuse water >>treat waste to improve quality of discharge water >>use chemicals that are less hazardous to health and environment -minimize the use of chemicals by finishing fabrics correctly the first time

Foam Finishing

-foam carries the finishing agent instead of water pros: -requires less energy to move and dry fabrics bc they weigh less, which costs less -quicker process, which costs less cons: -less uniform than water water finishes

Yarn preparation

-involves the slashing and sizing of fibers into yarns -warp yarns are coated with a mixture of natural and synthetic resin to increase abrasion resistance -(sizing, starch, gum, lubricant, or preservative)

Solvent Finishing

-uses solvent to carry the finishing agent instead of water pros: -decreases water pollution and energy costs -improves quality cons: -solvents are expensive

Water-bath Finishing

-was the standard finishing process in the industry for a long time -uses a tremendous amount of water -water bust be clean, neutral pH, free of inorganic contaminants -potential for water pollution is high unless it is treated before discharged into the public water systems -fabrics are heavy when saturated with water and require more energy to be moved around

Mill-Finished Goods

Fabrics that are sold and used without further finishing. Some are sized before sold

Loom State

Yarn dyed fabrics after fabrication but before any finishes have been applied

ammoniating finish

a alternate preparation step to mercerization for cellulosic fabric the uses weak a ammonia solution at high temperatures -fabric is passed through hot water, stretched, and dried in hot air -lower cost and less pollutants -fewer problems with durable press finishes -less effective for dyeing

cire'ing

a calendaring process that gives the fabric a high surface polish or "wet look" -creates a shiny "wavy" pattern on rayons and naturals -use resins on thermoplastics -creates water repellency with glazing and fusing

glazing

a calendaring process that involves friction -starch is used for temporary finishes -resin is used for durable finishes -gives a highly glazed and polished surface

Parchmentize

a crisp and transparent finish that affects the drape of the fabric -cellulosic fabrics are treated with sulfuric acid through a subtractive process -tenDering weakens the fabric -untreated areas pucker between treated areas think of ORGANDY

Sizing or Starching

a crisp and transparent finish that affects the drape of the fabric -fabric is immersed in mixture of waxes, oils glycerin, and softener to ADD BODY, control, and stiffness -gelatin used for rayon (to dry clean) -resin-based will be permanent -temporarily adds body and weight to the fabric

Weighting

a crisp and transparent finish that affects the drape of the fabric -metallic salt is added for stiffness and weight and body -mineral weighted silk was a common fabric produced by this method but is rare today >>sensitive to light damage

Burned-Out (deglazed)

a crisp and transparent finish that affects the drape of the fabric -prints chemical solvent on blended fabric that dissolves on of the fiber types -creates sheer areas -frays and is not very durable think of RAYON/POLYESTER and NYLON/SILK

Tentering machine

a drying machine that uses hot air to dry fabric -hot air is more expensive -machine holds the fabric width while it dries >>this affects the fabric grain -can cause off-grain, skew, or bow problems -creates a smooth, wrinkle-free appearance -clips leave no visible marks whereas pins leaves little holes along the edges

Singeing

a fabric preparation step that burns off any fiber ends projecting from the surface of the fabric -minimizes pilling -creates smoother fabric surface

bio-polishing

a fabric preparation step that uses cellulose enzymes to remove surface fuzz -lanolin from wool (scouring)

Renewable Finish

a finish that can be replaced

Plisse'

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -STRIPES are printed with sodium hydroxide on cotton fabrics -shrinks treated areas -untreated areas pucker

brushed

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -a continuation of sheared fabrics -fiber ends are SWEPT off the fabric surface AFTER SHEARING

Coronized

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -a finishing treatment used only for GLASS fibers in interior textiles like windows -heat stting, dyeing, and finishing of glass fiber -one continuous operation -softens yarn to bend and crimp

Crepeing

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -a special compacting process for soft hand and drape and comfort stretch -fabric is fed into a machine by a special blade at a faster rate than it is removed from the machine -this creates LOTS of compacting within the machine

Pleating

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -a variation of embossed paper-pattern technique >>costly hand process >>wide variety of pleated designs machine pleating or running process >>blades pleat fabric that has been inserted between two heated rollers >>paper backing, paper tape >>heat set

Flocked

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -add surface fiber with adhesive -localized or all-over effect (literally you can either adhesive new fibers only on certain parts of the fabric or all over the entire fabric)

napped

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -brushes fibers to the surface for a fuzzy, soft hand -increases warmth and beauty -contributes to water and soil repellency -flannel, flannelette, and fleece

enzyme wash

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -cellusLASE enzyme removes surface fuzz -similar to stone washing -decreases pilling and fabric weight -used on cellulosic fibers such as cotton

chemical wash

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -chemical alters fiber surface

puckered surface

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -chemical is printed on nylon or polyester -partially dissolves or swells fabric surface -as it dries, it shrink and creates puckered surface areas

abrasive wash

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -chemically saturated abrasive material tumbled with fabric

Expanded foam

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -compound design expands with heat -creates a 3D texture

Fulled/Milling

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -controlled shrinkage (compacting) of wool fabrics -moisture, heat, soap or acid, pressure -improves hand and appearance

caustic (or alkali) treatment

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -dissolves a portion of the fiber for greater yarn mobility

emberized, sueded, or sanded

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -fabric abraded to split fibers -creates a soft hand and sueded texture -"peach skin" look -think of Ultrasuede (C)

hand builders

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -intentionally adds slippage properties between yarns and fibers -softens fabric hand -improved durability -better wrinkle resistance -silicone softeners and cellulose enzyme

Beetled

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -mechanical flattening or yarns to make weave appear tighter with increased luster, absorbency, and smoothness -contemporary method >>high pressure, resin, and thermoplastic fibers -DAMASK, CRASH -gives a "linen look" to fabrics -real linen fabric vs. linen-looking fabric

sheared

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -pile or naps are cut to control height -patterned, smooth and sculpted effect

embossed

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -produces a raised or 3D design think of embossed COTTON -two roller, high pressure, one with patter, one flat -heat can be added to thermoplastics to further press in the pattern

Silk boil-off

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -removes sericin to create looser, more mobile yarns

Embroidered

a finish that effects the texture and hand of a fabric, adds an effect that can be felt -thread is stitched into fabric surface -the design is very durable bc there are stitches on stitches keeping the pattern and eyelets in place and from unraveling -eyelet embroidered and others

glazed

a luster finish done through friction calendaring -one, smaller cylinder rotates faster than the other, bigger cylinder -fabric is passed through finishing solution -then partially dried -this process polishes or glazes the surface think of glazed CHINTZ and polished COTTON

Embossed Calendar

a luster finish in the design is melted onto thermoplastic fabric surface -controlled surface glazing

Schreiner Calendar

a luster finish in which metal rollers are engraved with fine lines for deep luster -flattens yarn for smoother appearance and better cover think of SATIN, SATEEN, DAMASK, TRICOT, etc. -durable, washable, embossed pattern -changes the appearance but ALSO the quality

Moire'

a luster finish that creates a wood grain or water-marked design on ribbed fabrics -two fabrics are calendared or etched calendar think of Moire' TAFFETA and Moire' OTTOMAN -true Moire' can be identified by the face to face or the wood grain forming naturally -embossed metal roller method, patter is etched on roller so the wood grain pattern repeats itself

cire'

a luster finish that has a similar process to glazing -HOT calendar glazes surface -high gloss -greater luster on surface -creates a "wet look" think of cire' TAFFETA and cire' SATIN

Plasticize

a luster finish that uses a very thing polymer layer -used on high weight fabrics -higher pronounced and slicker glaze -makes the fabric soil-resistant and water-repellent -mostly used in high fashion and apparel

scouring

a more rigorous process than cleaning -removes soil and foreign matter (natural waxes and gums) before dyeing and special finishing -gum from silks (degumming) -wax from cotton

padding machine

a piece of equipment used to apply finishes and dyes -applies from a liquid or paste form

slack mercerization

a preparation step in which fabric is dipped at low tension into caustic soda solution >>crimp is increased >>creates a rounder fiber -improves absorbency and dye-ability

tension mercerization

a preparation step in which fabric is held under tension with a high concentration of sodium hydroxide

mercerization

a preparation step that treats with strong alkali (sodium hydroxide) -improves dye affinity of cotton and HWM rayon -increases strength, luster, and absorbency

crabbing

a routine finish for wools that "sets" the wool fabric

decating

a routine finish for wools that gives a smooth, wrinkle-free finish to wool fabrics

pressing

a routine finishing step for wools in which the wool fabric is steamed

carbonizing

a routine finishing step for wools that removes plant matter -prepares the fabric for more level or uniform color dyeing

heat setting

a routine finishing step in which fabric is heated under tension to set resin finishes or thermoplastic fibers -fabric is pinned to a tenter frame and passed through an oven -sets yarn twists, weave crimps, and wrinkle resistance

calendaring

a routine finishing step in which fabric is passed between a series of two or more rollers -gives a smooth and pressed finish to fabric

coloration

a routine finishing step that adds color to the fabric -dyeing or printing -properly prepared goods are critical to quality of dye or print finishes -special purpose finishes

loop drying

a routine finishing step that dries without tension for soft finish -dried on top dryer without tension -used for towels and knits

tentering

a routine finishing step that straightens and dries fabrics by holding fabric in place between pins or clips and sent through an oven -creates a stiff texture

cleaning

a step in fabric preparation in which gray goods must be cleaned before they can accept any finishes -warp sizing, dirt, oil, and other soil is removed

Desizing

a step in fabric preparation that removes any sizing that was added to the warp yarns by agitation or chemicals (enzyme or acid) -needed for wovens, not knits -the process depends on the fiber and the sizing used on the fiber -necessary so that dyes and finishes will bond to both warp and filling yarns -there are environmental impacts (water pollution) and sustainability fixes -bio or enzyme desizing saves water, energy, and time but is more expensive

backfilling machine

a variation of the padding machine that also applies finishes -applies ONLY TO ONE SIDE -usually the back

optical brighteners

a whitening process that uses fluorescent compounds to mask yellow colors -NOT a bleach

bleaching

a whitening process the cleans and produces uniformly white goods

Finishes

can be visible or not visible

Aesthetic Finishes

changes the appearance or hand -may change the fabric name -fabrics go through a process of additives or subtractives -many possibilities from the same gray good -performance is related to fiber content and techniue

luster finishes

changes the light reflectivenenss of the fabric done by a calendaring process -improves fabric's luster -may be all over the fabric or localized

Fiber Processing

cotton and polyester fibers are processed seperately

Gray goods

fabrics that have been fabricated but have not yet received any finishes

Yarn processing

fibers are aligned, blended, and twisted

Converted or Finished Goods

have received wet or dry finishes such as bleaching, dyeing, or embossing

reworking

inspecting and examining the fabric as one of the last routine finishing steps to ensure specified level of quality -flaws are repaired when needed

Permanent Finish

lasts for the life of product

Durable Finish

lasts for the life of the product but diminishes with time

Temporary Finish

lasts until the first wash/cleaning cycle

Drape

modifies how a fabric falls or hangs

Handling

the physical form (length and width) of fabric during finishing

run

the quantity of fabric receiving the same processing at the same time -it is cheaper for a mill to work with a longer piece of fabric than to work with several shorter pieces of fabric -open width finishing -tubular/rope finishing >>continuous or batch process

texture and hand

these finishes alter the texture and hand of the fabric, you can actually feel the effect of the finish

Fabrication

yarns are woven, knit, or other process into a fabric