Ch 16: Haircutting

Edgers

(a.k.a trimmers) a smaller version of clippers.They are mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears, and to create crisp outlines. Trimmers are generally used on men's haircuts and very short haircuts for women.

Traveling guide

(a.k.a. movable guideline) moves as the haircut progresses

The most commonly used elevations are....

45 and 90. the more you elevate the hair, the more graduation you create

Blunt haircut

Also known as a one-length haircut; haircut in which all the hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area; hair is cut with no elevation or overdirection

Tension

Amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a section, created by stretching or pulling the section

Cutting line

Angle at which the fingers are held when cutting, and, ultimately, the line that is cut; also known as finger angle, finger position, cutting position, or cutting angle.

Top

By locating the parietal ridge, you can find the hair that grows on the top of the head. This hair lies on the head shape. Hair that is grown below the parietal ridge,or crest, hangs because of gravity. You can locate the top by parting the hair at the parietal ridge, and continuing all the way around the head

Back

By making a parting or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear,you can locate the back of the head, which consists of all the hair that falls naturally behind the ear. When you have identified the front, you have also identified the back

Front

By making a parting, or drawing a line from the apex to the back of the ear, you can separate the hair that naturally falls in front of the ear from the hair that falls behind the ear. Everything that falls in front of the ear is considered the front

Overdirection

Combing a section away from its natural falling position, rather than straight out from the head, toward a guideline; used to create increasing lengths in the interior or perimeter.

Layered haircut

Graduated effect achieved by cutting the hair with elevation or overdirection; the hair is cut at higher elevations, usually 90 degrees or above , which removes weight

Slicing

Haircutting technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair; the shears are not completely closed, and only the portion of the blades near the pivot is used

Texturizing

Haircutting techniques designed to remove excess bulk without shortening the length; changing the appearance or behavior of the hair through specific haircutting techniques using shears, thinning shears, or a razor

Apex

Highest point on the top of the head

Crown

The crown is the area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge. On many people, the crown is flat and the site of cowlicks and whirls. because of this, it is extremely important to pay special attention to this area when haircutting.

Sides

The sides are easy to locate. They include all hair from the back of the ear forward, below the parietal ridge

Clippers

These are mainly used when creating short haircuts, short tapers,fades, and flat tops. Clippers may be used without a guard to shave hair right to the scalp, with cutting guards of various lengths, and for the clipper-over-comb technique.

Haircutting shears

These shears, also known as scissors,are mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines in hair. They also may be used to slide cut, point cut, or to implement other texturizing techniques

Areas of the head

Top, front, sides, crown,nape, back, bang area

Weight line

Visual line in the haircut where the ends of the hair hang together

Bang area

a.k.a. fringe area; The band area is a triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners. This area can be located by placing the comb on top of the head so that the middle of the comb is balanced on the apex. The spot where the comb leaves the head in front of the apex is where the bang area begins. Note that the bang area, when combed into a natural falling position, falls no farther than the outer corners of the eyes.

Head form

also known as head shape; shape of the head, which greatly affects the way the hair falls and behaves

Elevation

also known as projection or lifting; angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or lifted, from the head when cutting

Occipital bone

bone that protrudes at the base of the skull

Stationary guide

does not move. All sections are at the same angle and length

Graduation

elevation occurs when a section is lifted above 0 degrees

Carving

haircutting technique done by placing the still blade into the hair and resting it on the scalp, and then moving the shears through the hair while opening and partially closing the shears

Beveling

haircutting technique using diagonal lines by cutting hair ends with a slight increase or decrease in length

Reference points

mark on the head where the surface of the head changes; parietal ridge, occipital bone, apex, for corners

0 degrees elevation

no elevation; this is used in a blunt or one length haircut

Cross checking

parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it in order to check for precision of line and shape

Four corners

points on the head that signal a change in the shape of the head , from flat to round or vice versa

Subsections

smaller sections within a larger section of hair, used to maintain control of the hair while cutting

Angle

space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point

Razor

straight razors or feather blades are mainly used when a softer effect on the ends of the hair is desired. Razors can be used to create an entire haircut, to thin out, or to texturize in certain areas. They come in different shapes and sizes, and with or without guards

Nape

the nape is the area at the back part of the neck and consists of the hair below the occipital bone. The nape can be located by taking a horizontal parting, or making a horizontal line across the back of the head at the occipital bone

Sections

to divide the hair by parting into uniform working areas for control

Shrinkage

when hair contracts or lifts through the action of moisture loss or drying

Parietal Ridge

widest area of the head, usually starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown