Combo with "TAM 1200 FINAL EXAM" and 11 others

Beginning of Couture

France, and later Vienna

international organization for standardization, international standards for quality practices and systems

ISO 9000

Spinning Jenny Machine

Invented by James Hargreaves in 1764

Flying Shuttle

Invented by John Kay in 1733

Water Frame

Invented by Richard Arkwright in 1769

copy or near copy of a design but under a different brand name

knockoffs

fiber content, % of fiber, manufacturer's name or RN/ID # are all mandatory on

labels

transportation package where complete package, pays the contractor to ship the merchandise, including duty, to distribution. center. Costs more but is efficient

landed, duty paid (LDP)

items that have a famous name but not designed or manufacturer by that person can be licensed by designers and companies (ralph lauren paint, dkny perfume)

licensing

sewing machine that has the most secure stitch and straight seam

lock stitch

what are the 2 basic types of stitching

lockstich and overlock

rule that must include the manufacturer's current ID as registered with the FTB. this follows the RN on garment labels

manufacturer identification

used to make a layout for the cutter, place pattern pieces close together to avoid fabric waste and accommodate the cutting order

marker

3 or less separate groups that are linked together by a common theme. Each group is different by overall has a cohesive look or feel. Purpose is to offer specific target customer an opportunity to buy new clothes for the season for the various activities they carry out as part of their lifestyle

mini collection

ensures safety in the workplace, critical to apparel manufacturing and production as line workers are impact by the use of machines. design or equipment/tools to decrease negative impact on workers body

occupational safety and health administration (OSHA)

fabric purchased and cut in the US, sent to Mexico or Caribbean for sewing, (807 program), used to promote the use of US textiles/large quotas, duty only charged on the portion done offshore

offshore assembly

most apparel manufacturing is done through what

outsourcing

sewing machine that sews seam while finishing the edge

overlock/serger

the production pattern of _____. must pay attention to company size specifications for each size, CAD allows for changes to be made quickly, grading must be done to get complete size range

patternmaking

what are the 2 dimensions of quality

physical and performance features

works with the mill/converter and the manufacturer/contractor. Must have knowledge of all fabric properties, prices, availability and delivery

piece good buyer

parts + panels =

pieces

operators in garment assembly that are paid by how much they complete

piecework

estimates how much the garment will cost, usually within 10-15% accurate

precosting

importing procedure that is full responsibility for production, quality, and delivery

production package

pieces + pieces =

products

a product that fits the perception or the image held by a consumer

quality

1% savings translates into half a million dollars for a 50 million dollar company, reducing material and labor costs

reduce cost

where the layering pieces intermix with the base and novelty pieces, providing a variety or different possible option from which the customer can choose

related sportswear

formed when 2 or more pieces of fabric are joined by stitches

seam

measured for the cut (raw) edge of fabric to the main line of stitches

seam allowance

the thickness (or compressibility of a seam) affected by the fabric weight, type of fabric, and type of seam

seam depth

seams may be made by sewing machine or by hand

seam formation

the total distance covered by a continuous series of stitches (side or shoulder are examples)

seam length

stitched line of a seam

seam line

the distance, measured from side to side, of the seam

seam width

garments from woven layering or knit layering fabrics, lighter or "top weight" fabrics (tops)

soft bodies

sewing machine that does blind stitch hemming machine

specialty machine

define how to meet company standards

specifications

what are the most common types of groups

sportswear and dress

engineers time each operation to find ______ and determine how many garments can be sewn in an hour/day

standard allowed hours (SAH)

general guidelines to reflect the overall quality of products

standards

the repeated interlacing or threads to form seams/stitching

stitches

sourcing managers research facilities and look for qualities important to the manufacturer. contractor often specializes in particular sewing quality and provides a sample garment for review by the manufacturer

strategic sourcing

act that must disclose fiber content, manufacturer or importer, and country of origin

textile fiber products identification act

how many basic methods are there for producing overseas?

3

typically how many groups make up a mini-collection and collection?

3 or less, 4 or more

how many ensembles typically make up 1 group?

6-7

fabric purchased from 1 country and sent to another for cutting and sewing, finishing and labeling

CMT

Leaders of Couture

Charles Worth, Paquin Doucet, Redfer, Cheruit and Jeanne Lanvin

promoted to decrease the impact on the body as worker's use different muscle groups for different jobs

cross training

Who immigrated from England with memorized plans?

Samuel slater in 1789- because England at the time wouldn't let people leave with blueprints

cut and produce only when have orders, less risk, work fast, couture (new items in a line)

cut to order

Couture

art of dress making (p5)

most risk, project sales and cut based on those sales, forecasts are determined (economy, sales history, season), necessary when fabric lead times are long

cut to stock

the shape of the garment

body

cutting technique that sorts cut pieces and organizes for assembly, parts of garments must be grouped for operators, bar-coded for ID to track work-in-progress and each size and color

bundling

rule since 1972, garments must provide clear industry standard language and graphics depicting correct care and handling of the garment

care labeling rule

developed to indicate the recommended care for apparel and other textile products, implied warranty by the manufacturer

care symbols

sewing machine that does series of loops pulled through one another

chain stitch

number 1 importer of apparel to the us

china

4 or more separate groups that are linked together by a common theme. Each group is different by overall has a cohesive look or feel. Purpose is to offer specific target customer an opportunity to buy new clothes for the season for the various activities they carry out as part of their lifestyle

collection

refers to the colorways of different garments that are designed to be worn as an outfit (in the design process)

color story

refers to the different colors garment is offered in (in the design process)

colorway

division of FTC that enforces flammable fabrics act

consumer product safety commission (CPSC)

someone who does sewing and or cutting and patternmaking for other manufacturers

contractor

group where the layering pieces do not intermix with the base and novelty pieces. Designed to be worn 1 way only

coordinated sportswear

transportation package that pays for insurance and freight to final destination

cost, insurance, freight (CIF)

an exact calculation of the cost of the garment, require actual material figures and labor figures

costing

materials, trims/findings, production patternmaking grading and marketing, spreading and cutting, assembly, duty/quota, overhead, fixed overhead, variable all go into what?

costing

fakes or copies of currently popular brands and illegally use the name or trademark

counterfeit goods

the designated country for which the garment was substantially transformed

country of origin

within the US, labels must have this. Helps with promotion of domestically produced apparel.

country of origin

the features that have the greatest effect on the consumer's satisfaction at any point during these processes

determinant attributes

determines the target market for products and impacts how consumer's evaluate quality

end use

aka outfit or number or garments that are designed to be worn together and fully cloth the target customer for a particular occasion or activity

ensemble

enforces civil rights act, age discrimination in employment act, and equal pay act

equal opportunity commission

the study of people in relationship to their working environment

ergonomics

attributes that can be changed without changing the garment (price, brand name, country of origin)

extrinsic cues

what are the 2 types of quality inspection

fabric and garment

refers to the collection of different fabrics that are used within a group (in the design process)

fabric story

guarantees minimum wage and prohibits unfair labor practices (child labor)

fair labor standards act

who administers the regulations

federal trade commission

1953, classifies fabrics according to how fast they can burn

flammable fabrics act

Purpose is to relay information about the garments to others, both inside and outside the organization so the item can be constructed accurately and to exact specifications of the designer as well as be instantly visually recognized

flats

a line drawing that reflects exact proportions, styling, and fit of a design, in miniature format. Accurate and precise.

flats

transportation package where contractor gets paid to get finished merchandise shipped. Manufacturer arranges and pays separately for transportation and duties

free on board (FOB)

progressive bundle, whole-garment system, and modular manufacturing are all different types of what?

garment assembly

intended to keep consumer's informed and safe, ensure sage and fair business practices, provide clear understanding of the garment's fabric and care

government regulations

4-6 ensembles that share common sub-themes, fabric, notions, trim, and color stories. Purpose is to offer customer opportunity to buy new clothes for carrying out a specific activity in the new season. Formulated so that there is enough choice to suit tastes for customer but encourage them to buy many pieces from this as possible

group

garments made from base or novelty, heavier or "bottom weight" fabrics (jackets, pants, skirts)

hard bodies

when applying buttons, where should they be positioned

horizontal stress point

attributes that can't be changed (fabric, construction, finish)

intrinsic cues

difference between the allowable minimum and maximum of a specification or standard

tolerances

refers to the shape and feature of the product itself but identify the manufacturer of the product

trade dress

any brand name, word, symbol used to identify one manufacturer's products from another's

trademarks

the relationship between quality and price, depends on how much you wear the garment

value

used to appeal to the consumer's need for wearing a smaller size. high-end apparel usually uses this

vanity sizing

what are the 2 computer cutting techniques?

water jet and laser beam

markup covers sales commission and profit, typically 30-50& of the wholesale price, budget priced lines will take the lowest markup and hope to make it up with volume sales, usually the retailers will determine price and manufacturer must work backward to make money

wholesale pricing