Costume History

Subligar/ia

-gar: male loincloth/undergarment, also working garment of slaves -garia: female undergarment (goes with strophium)

Tunic

Ancient Middle East T shaped garment worn by men and women Super basic

Lorum/Pallium

Early Middle Ages; A long narrow, embroidered shawl with a hole for the head originating from the pallium and worn with Byzantine court costume from 8th-12th c long, heavily jeweled scarf with folded bands worn by emperor

Segmentium

Byzantine, Early Middle Ages; Square or round decorative medallions that were placed in different areas of the tunica talaris

Bracchae/Braies

Early Middle Ages; Semi-close fitting leg coverings, sometimes worn over hose; used with or without cross-gartering Linen under-drawers worn by men

Tablion

Decorated the paludamentum large and square contrasting colors/fabric, located at the open edge over the breast

Paludamentum

Early Christian, Byzantine; a large white or purple cloak similar to the Greek Chlamys, worn by emperors or generals Semicircular in shape Fastened over the RIGHT shoulder Decorated with the Tablion

Cote

Early Gothic A long tunic with sleeves cut in one piece with the garment Length varied front he calf to the instep "Undertunic" worn by men and women Placed over the chemise/shirt

Surcote/Surcoat

Early Middle Ages Loose, lightweight gament originally worn by the Crusader over his armor as a protection against the sun Became an over tunic worn OVER the cote Super varied --> length (knee to floor), sleeves (none to dalmatic-like), and belted or unbelted "Fitted outer tunic worn by both men and women"

Hosa

Early Middle Ages; A close fitting covering for the legs; leg coverings tied around knee worn by men and women

Uraeus

Egyptian Worn by king/queens Representation of a cobra, which was a symbol of royal power; could be worn on a headband or as part of another headdress

Klaft

Egyptian; Egyptian headdress with horizontal stripes A kerchief which was wrapped around the front of the head and fastened at the back of the neck, usually striped horizontally

Postiche

False beard, made of leather, felt, metal Reserved for royalty, i.e. Pharoah

Perizoma

Greek/Mycenae; Greek for "loincloth"; worn by men either as an undergarment or for athletic contests

Doric Peplos/Chiton

Greek; Garment worn by all Greek women to the 6th century Made of wool dyed indigo, madder or saffron Frequently patterned Upper edge folded over to hang down on breast RIGHT side = open, arms left UNCOVERED Folded around the body, caught together on each shoulder with pins (fibula) Girdle (concealed), if no girdle, overfold could become hood/shawl

Himation

Greek; Rectangle of wool with weighted corners, slung over LEFT shoulder, left right arm free Often worn by married women, with the corner over the head like a shawl Natural wool colors, or dyed scarlet, crimson or purple Garment sometimes had woven patterns, selvedges and embroidery Worn by both men and women

Ionic Chiton

Greek; Worn first by men, later by women also Made of thin woolens (crepe like) Cut with ample width from two pieces, then sewn together, frequently pleated, long, trailing SLEEVES Right side sewn, LEFT side open Often worn with a short wrap called a chlamydon

Tippet

Late Middle Ages A band sewn around the elbow of the cotehardie sleeve with the end hanging as a streamer

Chaperon with the Liripipe

Late Middle Ages A caped hood with long tail = liripipe Worn with the face opening around the head and the liripipe wound about the head and draped under the chin

Crackow/Poulaine

Late Middle Ages A long tipped hose and shoe Later the length of the shoe became so long it had to be tied to the knee

Escoffion

Late Middle Ages A tall, richly brocaded headdress, sometimes shaped like two horns, sometimes like a narrow, tall turban; usually had a veil of fine lawn about a yard wide

Hennin/Cornet

Late Middle Ages A truncated cone or steeple headdress with veil, completely covering a female's hair

Galoche

Late Middle Ages A wooden platform with an ornamental strap fastening the base beneath the heels and ball of the foot; elevated to varying heights

Wimple

Late Middle Ages Fine white linen or silk scarf that covered the neck center placed under the chin and each end pulled up and fastened above the ear or at the temple

Garnache/Gaurdcorps

Late Middle Ages A long cloak with cape like sleeves Often lined or collared with fur Garment was open at sides under arms

Patten

Late Middle Ages Iron support worn under a shoe

Fitchet

Late Middle Ages; Similar to modern day "pockets" made in more voluminous outdoor garments so that one could put his hands inside for warmth

Doublet/Pourpoint

Late Middle Ages; A short jacket, close fitting, with or without sleeves (with sleeves -> tight, buttoned from elbow to wrist); worn under the cotehardie; often padded

Houppelande

Loose/comfortable gown of great size Worn by both men and women Men -> long, flowing, bell-shaped sleeves, fitted waist, floor length or longer skirt slit to knees (could be shorter) Women's --> soft, open collar, a short waist, a full skirt and long, flowing sleeves High standing collar = common with this costume

Pelicon

Middle Ages Fur lined

Minoan Silhouette

Minoan Women = tiny waist, hourglass shape, exposed breast, 3 types of skirts Men = wrapped loincloth with tassel

Strophium

Mycenae, Greek; a type of corset made of linen, wool, or soft skin, consisting of shoulder straps and three support in bands, one for the bust, one for the waist, and one for the hips

Tebenna

Roman/Etruscan; The cloak of the ancient Etruscan man, which was sometimes rectangular, but more often semicircular, and therefore the basis for the later Roman toga

Sinus

Roman Formed from the overfold of the Imperial Toga, a kind of "draped apron"

Palla

Roman The roman outdoor garment, which could also be used as a bed covering Originally Greek Rectangle as wide as from the wearer's shoulders to the floor and about three times as long, (difference between a regular toga is that the palla rectangular not semicircular) Worn by men, women, children, Civil and military Worn OVER the stolla

Stola

Roman Woman's garment, worn OVER the tunica intima; Had sleeves or was pinned along the shoulder line and down the arms to create "sleeves" Girded once under the breast and often again at the hips Symbol of marriage!

Umbo

Roman the "pocket" created by the folds of a Roman toga

Paenula

Roman; a heavy wool cloak, semicircular in shape, closed at the front with a hood often fur lined

Toga

Roman; outer-garment, which was the badge of the Roman citizen, rich or poor Different colors = different statuses

Clavi

Roman; purple bands on the tunica, indicating the wearer's rank

Bilaut

Romanesque/Early Middle Ages; worn by men and women, upper middle class; snug fitting torso, often wide embroidered sleeves, a low skirt pulled into elegant pleats across the hips and snug lacing up the bcd or under each arm one of the first garments to depend on FIT as well as cut

Kaunakes

Sumer/Ancient Middle East; bell shaped kilt, usually made of fur

Kolpos/Apotygma

The bloused part of the chiton, made by pulling the chiton up over the girdle to make it the proper length form the ground (length <=> wealth)

Assyrian Silhouette

Tunics with long fringe fez hats, square curly beards/hair

Fillet

headband used by a woman

Fibula

pin or brooch of ancient Greece and Rome, which resembled in form the modern safety pin; often richly decorated

Shenti

wrapped skirt worn by men, ancient middle east